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MEGA65 User’s Guide Chapter 5 - Upgrading the MEGA65

2024-08-28T00:00:00+00:00

Welcome to another installment of the MEGA65 User Guide series! Today, we’re diving into Chapter 5: Upgrading the MEGA65. Get ready to explore how to upgrade your MEGA65 core, ROM, and system files, as well as how to install alternate cores and ROMs. We’ll also cover how to set core flags and understand the MEGA65 boot process.

As always, don’t forget to check out the companion YouTube videos and blog posts that supplement this guide. They are packed with links, errata, and resources to enhance your MEGA65 journey. Let’s get started!

MEGA65 User’s Guide Series Page

TABLE OF CONTENTS LINKS

TABLE OF CONTENTS
LINKS
SUPPORT THE BLOG AND CHANNEL
COMPANION YOUTUBE VIDEO
VIDEO ERRATA
HOW A MEGA65 CAN BE UPGRADED
WHAT IS A CORE?
DETERMINING THE VERSIONS OF THINGS
OBTAINING THE LATEST FILES
- Step-by-Step Guide
THE CORE SELECTION MENU
UPGRADING THE MEGA65 CORE, ROM, AND SYSTEM FILES
INSTALLING ALTERNATE CORES AND ROMS
- Install Multiple .ROMs
- Boot an Alternate .ROM
SETTING CORE FLAGS
ERASING A CORE SLOT
UPGRADING THE FACTORY CORE IN SLOT 0
- R3A Board Revision Only
UNDERSTANDING THE CORE BOOTING PROCESS
CONCLUSION

SUPPORT THE BLOG AND CHANNEL

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

COMPANION YOUTUBE VIDEO

Title: MEGA65 User’s Guide Chapter 5: Upgrading the MEGA65

VIDEO ERRATA

None as of 2024-08-28.

HOW A MEGA65 CAN BE UPGRADED

The MEGA65 platform consists of three major components:

CORE: The core is a description of the chipset to run on the FPGA. You can upgrade the core to new versions or replace it with a different core entirely, such as one that emulates a different computer like a Commodore 64 or a ZX Spectrum. The core is stored in the MEGA65’s core flash memory.
ROM: The ROM contains the Commodore-style operating system (KERNAL) and BASIC. You can switch between multiple ROM versions, including the original Commodore 65 prototype ROM.
SYSTEM SOFTWARE: The system software includes features like the Freezer menu and other utilities.

You can upgrade these components as new releases are published, replace them individually, or maintain multiple versions. For instance, your SD card can contain not only the updated MEGA65 ROM, but if you want to see what it was like to own an original Commodore 65, you can also place the original ROM on the same SD card.

Likewise, you can have the official MEGA65 core installed on the MEGA65 along with the Commodore 64 core and even a ZX Spectrum core so your MEGA65 can emulate any of these systems.

Upgrading the core, ROM, and system software is easy if you know how, and that’s the focus of Chapter 5. So let’s dig in and learn how.

WHAT IS A CORE?

A core (and the core of our discussion!) in the MEGA65 system refers to the configuration that runs on the FPGA (Field-Programmable Gate Array), defining the hardware behavior of the MEGA65. This core is essentially the blueprint for the system’s functionality, allowing it to emulate different vintage computers like the Commodore 65, Commodore 64, ZX Spectrum, or arcade game cabinet. By updating the core, users can add new features, enhance performance, or fix bugs, ensuring their MEGA65 stays current with the latest developments. The core is stored in the MEGA65’s flash memory and can be managed through the Core Selection Menu, providing flexibility in choosing and switching between different hardware configurations.

This adaptability has an advantage, allowing seamless transitions between different cores for varied uses. The active MEGA65 community continually develops and shares new cores, contributing to a rich and evolving ecosystem. Understanding and managing cores is essential for maximizing the MEGA65’s potential, as it opens up a world of possibilities in retro computing and ensures the system remains a cutting-edge tool for both nostalgic users and developers.

Let’s learn about versions.

DETERMINING THE VERSIONS OF THINGS

All components of the MEGA65 platform have a version identifier and are listed in the Information Utility by following these steps:

Switch on the MEGA65 and boot to BASIC.
Open the Freezer: press and hold the RESTORE key for one second, then release it.
Press the HELP key to open the MEGA65 Information Utility.

The Information Utility includes a lot of information, but germane to Chapter 5 are the following areas:

MEGA65 MODEL: The revision of the hardware. Necessary to select the correct core files.
Artix Version: The current core in operation identified by a string of eight letters and numbers along with the build date.
ROM Version: The current ROM in operation identified by a sequential number. The larger the number, the newer the release.
System Files: .M65 files with their own version identifiers. It is important to match the correct core and system files for proper operation. Luckily, the community makes it clear which goes with which.

To exit the Information Utility and return to BASIC, press F3 twice.

Each core has a separate version for each hardware revision (The R3 “DevKit” and R3A or R6 computers, as of this video). The MEGA65 developers ensure parity of core releases for both hardware revisions. Alternate cores may or may not support both, so check with the core developers.

If you do not own a MEGA65, you cannot use the official MEGA65 ROM without a license. I cover this in my Patch a Commodore 65 ROM video and on the companion blog post.

So where do you get these files? That’s next!

OBTAINING THE LATEST FILES

To keep your MEGA65 up-to-date with the latest features and improvements, you’ll need to obtain the latest core, ROM, and system software files from the MEGA65 Filehost website. Follow these steps to ensure you get everything you need:

Step-by-Step Guide

Here’s a step-by-step guide to obtain the latest version of the files you need to keep your MEGA65 happy and healthy.

License Warning: Certain MEGA65 files, such as ROMS, are for personal use only, require the purchase of a MEGA65, and should not be redistributed.

Owner Registration:

Go to files.mega65.org.
If you haven’t already, sign up for an account on the MEGA65 Filehost website.
If you purchased a MEGA65, redeem your owner code to access restricted files. This code, printed on a sheet of paper and probably found in your bound copy of the user’s manual, is provided with your MEGA65 purchase and ensures that only legitimate owners can download licensed files.
Click the user icon in the upper-right corner of the Filehost screen.
Select Redeem Code.
Enter the owner code.

Download the Latest Release Package:

Click the Files tab of the Filehost.
In the left-hand search box, type “release” and the list will update to show only files with the word release in their title.
Locate the entry named, “MEGA65 Core Release Package (mega65r6) incl. ROM” where “mega65r6” matches the hardware revision of your MEGA65 (as we identified earlier using the Information Utility).
Click the entry to view a description of the package and files.
Click Download to download the release package to your computer.

REMEMBER: If you have not redeemed your code, you will not see a version of the release package that includes a ROM. Make sure to register your code and ensure you are logged in to the Filehost.

Extract the Package:

Locate the downloaded archive file on your computer.
Right-click the file and select “Extract All” (or use your preferred extraction tool).
Navigate into the destination folder to access the extracted files.

By following these steps, you’ll ensure that you have the latest core, ROM, and system files ready for your MEGA65. Next, we’ll learn how to use these files to upgrade our MEGA65.

While the MEGA65 identifies a default core to load, you can use the Core Selection Menu to change the core using the following steps:

Switch off the MEGA65.
Hold the NO SCROLL key and switch on the computer. The core selection menu appears, showing the eight core slots numbered 0 through 7.
Use the cursor keys and RETURN to select a core slot or press the corresponding number on the keyboard.

The core you choose will be used as long as you don’t power cycle the computer. Using the reset button will not reset the core. By default, the MEGA65 will launch core 1 unless there is no core in slot 1, in which case it will launch the core in slot 0.

Slot 0: Slot 0, by design, is harder to upgrade than slots 1 through 7. This is your safe slot. If all other cores fail, you know you can always revert to slot 0. Refrain from modifying this slot unless directed to do so. I will show you how to do this later in this chapter, but you should not do this regularly and only when directed by the MEGA65 developers.

There is an option to “flag” slot 2 as a default core using a DIP switch on the main board. For example, I like to have the latest MEGA65 core in slot 1 and my Commodore 64 core in slot 2. This way, I can flip DIP switch #4 to the “on” position and boot my MEGA65 into the Commodore 64 core when I know it’s time for a long session of Commodore 64 gaming!

UPGRADING THE MEGA65 CORE, ROM, AND SYSTEM FILES

You can upgrade your MEGA65 core using the microSD card and a .cor file using these steps:

REMEMBER: Don’t use the internal SD card to upgrade your core. See chapter 4 for more information.

Remove the microSD card from the back of your MEGA65.
Place the microSD card into your PC (you may need an SD card reader).
Copy the .cor file from the downloaded archive’s sdcard-files folder to the root directory of the microSD card.
Copy the system files to the SD card, replacing the existing files.
Eject the SD card from your PC and insert it into the MEGA65 (ensure the MEGA65 is off).
Access the core selection menu by holding NO SCROLL while switching on the MEGA65.
Hold CTRL and press the number of the slot you want to upgrade. The Slot Editor will display. This editor includes an option to change core flags. We’ll look at those options later.
Press F3 to load a core file, select the .cor file, and press RETURN.
Press F8 to flash the core slot. Wait for the process to complete (up to three minutes).
After the flash process, press any key to return to the core selection menu.

The core is now upgraded and ready to use.

INSTALLING ALTERNATE CORES AND ROMS

An exciting feature of the MEGA65 is its ability to run alternate cores and ROMs, allowing you to transform your MEGA65 into different vintage computers and game cabinets. Let’s talk more about this capability.

TIP: I recommend you use slots 2 through 7 for alternate cores and reserve slot 1 for the official MEGA65 ROM; unless you have a very specific reason to use the default slot 1 to emulate another system.

As well as multiple cores, the MEGA65 can use multiple ROMs, when using a MEGA65 core, to boot to various versions of the MEGA65 all the way from the original C65 prototype to the state-of-the-art version of the MEGA65 system. You can use multiple .ROM files to:

Try beta releases from the MEGA65 developers.
Explore what the original Commodore 64DX, or C65, was like back in its early development days.
Try the new Open Source, and Commodore code free, MEGA65 Open ROM project.

Here’s a step-by-step process:

Install Multiple `.ROM`s

Visit the Filehost to download a .ROM file, purchase a licensed Commodore 65 .ROM from the Cloanto C64 Forever Express Edition (Windows Only), or download an archival .ROM from the Zimmers File Archive.
The name of the default boot ROM is MEGA65.ROM. To add .ROM files to an SD card, use the format MEGA65x.ROM where x is a number from 0 to 7.
Place the alternate .ROM files on the root directory of the SD card.

Boot an Alternate `.ROM`

To boot an alternate .ROM file using a MEGA65 core:

Hold down a number key, from 0 to 7, that corresponds to the .ROM file installed on the SD card.
Power on or reset the MEGA65.

The computer will boot with the MEGA65 core using the alternate .ROM file.

TIP: The default SD card that comes with your MEGA65 includes various .ROM files. Try them out!

SETTING CORE FLAGS

Mentioned earlier, the Slot Editor includes options, or flags, to allow you to set a core as the default or associate it with Commodore cartridges. Set a flag on the Slot Editor screen by tapping the associated numbers 1, 2, or 3.

Default Core: Sets the core as the default when the MEGA65 boots. If you do not set a default core flag, the DIP switch we discussed earlier manages the core default.
Cartridge: Set the core to boot when you insert a cartridge into the MEGA65 cartridge port. By default, when you insert a MEGA65 cartridge (none available at the time of this video), the MEGA65 core will load. When you insert a C64 cartridge into the MEGA65, the MEGA65 will boot into GO64 mode.
C64/C128 Cartridge: Set the core to boot when you insert a C64 or C128 cartridge. This would be a good option to use if you want the C64 core to boot when you insert a C64 cartridge since the C64 core is more compatible than GO64 mode.

Once you make your selections, press F8 to “flash” the flag changes to either an existing core or a new core.

ERASING A CORE SLOT

Flashing a core on top of another core will replace the previous core. You can also erase a core using these steps:

Access the core selection menu by holding NO SCROLL while switching on the MEGA65.
Select a core using CTRL followed by 1 through 7, depending on the slot to erase, and the Slot Editor will load.
Press F4 to select the erase slot option.
Press F8 to flash the slot with empty data.

The MEGA65 will erase the core and display “EMPTY SLOT” on the Core Selection Menu.

UPGRADING THE FACTORY CORE IN SLOT 0

As mentioned earlier, we really don’t want to mess with slot 0; however, sometimes an upgrade to slot 0 is beneficial and directed by the MEGA65 developers. You’ll find those announcements on the MEGA65 Discord.

WARNING: It is important that you have at least one functional slot before beginning this process. For instance, if slot 1 is functional with your internal SD card, you are clear to proceed.

When directed and you have the latest, and functional, MEGA65 core in slot 1, use the steps below. These steps differ from flashing slots 1 through 7 to avoid an accidental flash of slot 0.

Launch core slot 1 to confirm it works.
Access the core selection menu by holding NO SCROLL while switching on the MEGA65.
Hold the MEGA key and tap , to open the slot 0 editor.
Type CONFIRM, all uppercase, and press RETURN to confirm your understanding of the message displayed.
Complete the flashing process as directed. Flags are not available for slot 0.

If something goes wrong and slot 0 does not work, after a few minutes the MEGA65 will attempt to boot from slot 1 so you can try again. If, however, your MEGA65 does not boot and appears to be “stuck,” you can likely recover using an inexpensive, but sometimes low in stock, JTAG connector. If you find yourself in this situation, contact the developers on the MEGA65 Discord.

R3A Board Revision Only

If you have an R3A board with an original slot 0 core, the core does not include an option to press the MEGA key and , to launch the slot 0 core editor. Follow these steps instead:

Ensure you have the latest core installed in slot 1.
Access the core selection menu by holding NO SCROLL while switching on the MEGA65.
Press 1 and then immediately press and hold the NO SCROLL key. The core selection menu opens again using slot 1.
Now you can hold the MEGA key and tap , to open the slot 0 editor.
Follow the steps in the previous section to upgrade slot 0.

Congratulations! You’ve now upgraded slot 0 and have the latest core version in slot 1. Monitor the MEGA65 Discord and/or Filehost for new versions of the cores and ROMs that add new features to your MEGA65.

UNDERSTANDING THE CORE BOOTING PROCESS

Understanding the MEGA65 boot process is helpful to manage and troubleshoot your system. To conclude this chapter, let’s review with a step-by-step explanation of the core booting process:

Power On the MEGA65: When you press the power button, the MEGA65 begins its boot sequence.
Initial Hardware Check: The system performs an initial check of the hardware components to ensure everything is functioning correctly. If there is an issue, the “ambulance lights” (the status LEDs) might flash to indicate a hardware fault.
Loading the Hypervisor (HYPPO): The Hypervisor, known as HYPPO, is loaded. HYPPO is responsible for managing the boot process and initializing the system.
Reading Core Slots: HYPPO reads the core slots to determine which core to load. The core slots are numbered from 0 to 7, with slot 0 typically reserved for the default core.
Selecting the Core: HYPPO selects the core based on the following criteria:
- Default Core: If a core is flagged as the default, it will be selected automatically.
- Manual Selection: If no core is flagged as default, or if the user intervenes, the core selection menu can be accessed.
Accessing the Core Selection Menu: To manually select a core, power off the MEGA65, hold the NO SCROLL key, and power it back on. The core selection menu will appear, displaying the available core slots.
Loading the Core into the FPGA: The selected core is loaded into the FPGA (Field-Programmable Gate Array). This process configures the FPGA to emulate the chosen hardware configuration, such as the Commodore 65 or an alternate core.
Initializing the Core: Once the core is loaded, the system initializes it. This includes setting up the necessary ROM and system files associated with the core.
Booting the Operating System: After the core is initialized, the operating system (e.g., Commodore 65 KERNAL and BASIC) is booted. If multiple ROMs are available, you can select one by holding the associated 1 through 7 number key, or it will load the default ROM.
System Ready: The MEGA65 is now ready for use, running the selected core and operating system. You can start using your MEGA65 as intended, whether for development, gaming, or other applications.

CONCLUSION

That wraps up Chapter 5 of our MEGA65 User Guide series. Upgrading your MEGA65 opens a world of possibilities and keeps your MEGA65 healthy. As mentioned, if you need help, reach out to the MEGA65 Discord. You can also join my Discord by supporting the channel. You can find information at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Until next time, happy upgrading and be sure to check out these other two chapters from the user’s guide series. 🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

MEGA65 User’s Guide Chapter 4 - Configuring Your MEGA65

2024-06-01T00:00:00+00:00

Welcome back to another installment of the MEGA65 User Guide series! Today, we’re diving into Chapter 4: Configuring Your MEGA65. Buckle up, because we’re going to unlock the customization potential of your MEGA65 by exploring the configuration utility, SD card setup, and downloading files from the MEGA65 FileHost.

But wait, there’s more! Remember, this series is a treasure trove of YouTube videos and companion blog posts to enhance your experience. The blog posts are packed with all the links, errata, and resources you need to supercharge your MEGA65 journey, while the videos provide the visuals to make everything crystal clear.

So, whether you’re following along with the blog, watching the videos, or diving into the MEGA65 User’s Guide, you’ve got a complete, all-in-one resource at your fingertips. Let’s configure your MEGA65. All the links to access these additional videos and blog posts are in the video description below.

MEGA≡65 User’s Guide Series Page

TABLE OF CONTENTS LINKS

TABLE OF CONTENTS
LINKS
- MEGA65 ACCESSORIES
- MEGA65 LINKS
SUPPORT THE BLOG AND CHANNEL
COMPANION YOUTUBE VIDEO
VIDEO ERRATA
THE CONFIGURATION UTILITY
INTRODUCING SD CARDS
PREPARING A NEW SD CARD
CONCLUSION

SUPPORT THE BLOG AND CHANNEL

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

COMPANION YOUTUBE VIDEO

Title: MEGA65 User’s Guide Chapter 4: Configuring Your MEGA65

VIDEO ERRATA

2024-07-07: Gürçe noted that I referenced the SD card bundle that did not include all the demo disks. I’ve updated the OBTAINING THE BUNDLED SOFTWARE section to reference the ALL INTRO DISKS - Public package.
2024-07-07: Dan reminded me that, “that Filehost will only show you the “Kernal ROM - Stable” if you are signed in with your Filehost account and you have redeemed your owner code (the code on the piece of paper that came with the computer). If you only see Kernal ROM diff files - Stable, you’re either not signed in or haven’t redeemed your code. Feel free to ask for assistance on the MEGA65 Discord.”
2024-07-07: Dan dropped another tip regarding the SD card bootstrap process; “The release core has the corresponding ROM bundled along with those other SD card files. If you’re populating the SD card from a release core, it’ll install the ROM and you won’t need to get it separately. (The message is different.) The core slot entries that say “14 files” in your example are these. You were prompted to install the ROM file separately because you selected a non-release core for the files (“12 files”) which did not have the ROM bundled, probably from a late test version. So the tip about signing into Filehost only applies when you get to the Upgrading chapter in your next video. You’ll need to be signed in and have redeemed your owner code to download the release package with the core that bundles the ROM file in this way. The release package download also contains the SD card files separately (including MEGA65.ROM), so you can update an SD card without formatting it by replacing the system files manually.”

THE CONFIGURATION UTILITY

First up is the Configuration Utility. This powerful tool allows you to fine-tune the settings of your MEGA65. Here’s how to access it:

Power off your MEGA65.
Hold the ALT key.
Power on the MEGA65 back.

You’ll see a menu, called the MEGA65 MEGA OS Hypervisor, with several options. Press 1 to enter the Configuration Utility. This utility contains six pages of options: input, chipset, video, audio, network, and done. You can move between pages using the ← and → cursor keys and move up and down on a page using ↑ and ↓ cursor keys. Press RETURN or SPACE to toggle a setting or change a value. Let’s see what options we have by starting with the input page.

INPUT

The Input page allows you to configure mouse settings for the two peripheral ports. Here’s what you need to do:

MOUSE TYPE

Select the type of mouse connected to each port; of which there are two, Joy 1 and Joy 2. Options include:

Normal (Commodore 1351): Use this option if you have an original Commodore 1351 mouse.
Amiga to 1351 Emulation (Amiga Mouse): Great for those who prefer the Amiga mouse.

NOTE: Don’t have an original Commodore Mouse? Consider a mouSTer adapter. This adapter allows you to use a modern mouse to emulate an original Commodore mouse.

DE-JITTER SETTING

Each Joy option includes a de-jitter setting. This adjusts the sensitivity in Commodore 1351 mouse mode to avoid jitter in the mouse pointer. Leave this set to on when using a 1351 mouse in normal mode.

CHIPSET

The Chipset page configures several features we’ll look at next:

TIME & DATE

We set up the real-time clock in an earlier chapter, but if you need to change it again, follow these steps:

Select the time or date field.
Type the complete value.
Press RETURN.

When you press RETURN, the settings for the RTC will update immediately. This is not true for other settings. You use the DONE screen to activate these changes. We’ll cover this later.

DMAGIC REVISION

You can choose which Direct Memory Access (DMA) controller to use on the MEGA65:

F018B: Choose for the enhanced DMA controller functionality.
F018: Choose for specific C65 compatibility needs; which is unlikely for most users.

TIP: Want to know more about the differences? Ask the MEGA65 Discord community for examples of why you might choose the F018 DMA controller.

F011 DISK CONTROLLER

Select where the MEGA65 looks for a boot disk when switched on:

SDCARD Disk Image: Ideal for faster boot times and easy updates.
3.5” Floppy Drive: Perfect for retro enthusiasts who love using physical media and hearing those floppy drive sounds.

For convenience and speed, I recommend you use the SD Card.

LONG FN SUPPORT

Toggles long filename support on the SD Card. Leave this option enabled unless you find you have issues reading filenames longer than 11 characters.

TIP: At the bottom of each page is a reminder that you can press the HELP key to view help for each page of options.

VIDEO

The VIDEO page configures video settings. These are identical to the onboarding options when you first set up your MEGA65.

VIDEO MODE

Toggle between PAL and NTSC modes. If you have an original CRT monitor using the VGA port, choose the option based on your display’s compatibility. PAL (Phase Alternating Line) and NTSC (National Television System Committee) are analog television standards that determine the resolution and refresh rate of the video signal. PAL is common in Australia, Africa, China, Europe, and Australia, while NTSC is common in North America, South America, the Philippines, Taiwan, South Korea, and Japan.

When using a modern digital display, the MEGA65 can emulate either PAL or NTSC mode but there are performance differences:

PAL mode runs at 50Hz, while the NTSC mode runs at 60Hz. This difference in refresh rate can affect the speed at which software runs.
PAL mode has a resolution of 720x576 pixels, while the NTSC mode has a resolution of 720x480 pixels. This means that the image will be slightly taller in PAL mode.

NOTE: You can conveniently toggle this setting using the Freezer menu.

DIGITAL VIDEO

Enable or disable digital video sound. Enable ENHANCED (WITH AUDIO) if your display has built-in speakers for integrated audio. In rare cases, your DVI display may require you to select the DVI ONLY (NO AUDIO) option.

CRT EMULATION

Enable to make the picture look like a vintage Cathode Ray Tube, or CRT, display for a nostalgic experience. This will add software-produced scan lines to the display.

AUDIO SETTINGS

Time to configure the MEGA65 sound system.

TIP: You’d only need to make changes if you have specific use cases. I recommend the defaults.

AUDIO OUTPUT

Choose between stereo and mono(aural) output. Choose STEREO for an immersive sound and to activate the ability to use the Freezer’s audio mixer to pan the four MEGA65 Sound Interface Device, or SID, chip’s sound left and right.

Choose MONO for single SID channel simplicity or specific retro software use cases.

SID GENERATION

The MEGA65 can emulate either a 6581 or 8580 SID chip. Commodore installed the 6581 in early Commodore 64s. Later, Commodore used the 8580 in newer C64s and the C128. Why would you use one over the other? The 6581 had flaws that some software exploited for better sound. If you run into these games, you can experience them as the programmers intended on the MEGA65.

SWAP STEREO CHANNELS

Switch the stereo mix to use the opposite speakers. Handy for a quick fix in speaker placement.

AUDIO AMPLIFIER

Controls the amplifier connected to the 3.5mm audio jack. Set this to ON when using headphones or OFF for line-level signal connected to powered speakers or capture devices.

NETWORK

Unlike earlier Commodore computers, the MEGA65 includes an Ethernet port, but it does not include a hardware-assigned Media Access Control, or MAC, address. Every device on a network must have this unique 12-character alphanumeric identifier. Here’s how to set a MAC address.

MAC ADDRESS

Networking features will not function with a MAC address set to all zeros, which is the MEGA65’s default. If the MAC address is all zeros, press the R key to generate a random address.

DONE

Once all settings are correct, head to the DONE page for the following options:

EXIT WITHOUT SAVING

Abandon the modifications you’ve made to the settings pages.

RESTORE FACTORY DEFAULTS

Reset all settings to their defaults. Consider using this option when you have issues with the MEGA65.

EXIT AND REBOOT ONBOARDING SCREEN

To go back to the screen that appeared when you first took the MEGA65 out of the box and powered it on.

SAVE AS DEFAULTS AND EXIT

Save all current settings and exit the Configuration Utility. The MEGA65 will prompt you to “power-cycle.” Switch the computer off, wait a second or two, and then switch it back on. Your new settings are now in effect.

INTRODUCING SD CARDS

Your MEGA65 comes with two SD card slots, each serving different purposes and offering flexibility to manage your data and system files. Understanding how to use these slots effectively will enhance your experience.

SD CARD SLOTS

Let’s look at each SD card slot.

INTERNAL FULL-SIZE SD CARD SLOT

Located inside the case, you use this slot for system files and bundled software. The MEGA65 comes with an internal SD card pre-populated with the operating system and essential software, providing a seamless retro experience right out of the box. Leave this card in place to maintain a seamless and authentic retro experience. This SD card is configured to boot the system and run essential software efficiently. Since it holds critical system files, avoid frequent removal or modification unless necessary for system updates or troubleshooting. I recommend you keep a backup copy of this internal SD card’s contents on your computer, or like me, in Google Drive.

EXTERNAL MICRO SD CARD SLOT

This slot is accessible from the rear of the MEGA65 and is ideal for file transfers and regular updates. The convenience of accessing this slot without opening the case makes it perfect for moving files between your MEGA65 and other devices, such as your PC. This card is ideal for users who frequently update or add new content to their MEGA65. It’s also useful for backing up important data or sharing files with other devices. The ease of access makes it convenient to switch cards as needed. Use this slot for non-essential files to keep the internal card focused on core system functions.

Here’s additional, and useful, SD card information.

SINGLE CARD OPERATION

The MEGA65 can only use one SD card slot at a time. When you insert a microSD card in the rear slot, the system will automatically ignore the internal SD card. This feature allows you to switch between different configurations without physically removing the internal card.

SYSTEM UPDATES

For major system updates or changes to the operating system, use the internal SD card. For minor updates, software installations, or file transfers, the external microSD card slot provides the flexibility you need without disrupting the system’s core functions.

LOCAL NETWORK FILE TRANSFERS

You can also transfer files over a local network. This is useful for large file transfers or frequent updates to the SD card. We learned earlier that our MEGA65 needs a unique MAC address and includes an Ethernet connection to connect to a network. That’s the first step; however, the MEGA65 team has also created network sharing tools to move files seamlessly between your MEGA65 and modern computers. We will learn more about this feature in Chapter 7. For now, let’s learn how to prepare a new SD card.

PREPARING A NEW SD CARD

To prepare a new SD card for use with your MEGA65, follow these steps. It’s important to ensure you’re using a compatible SD card format to avoid any issues.

The MEGA65 supports SDHC cards with sizes between 4 and 32 gigabytes (GB). You should not expect older cards less than 4 GB, and newer SDXC cards larger than 32 GB, to function. They may…but don’t count on it.

IMPORTANT: You cannot create a compatible SD card on your personal computer. You must use the MEGA65’s built-in SD Card Utility. Why? Because the MEGA65 creates two partitions: a hidden partition containing MEGA65 configuration files, the Freezer menu options, computer freeze states, and a FAT32 Partition that contains system files and .d81 disk images.

INSERTING THE SD CARD

The internal SD card is inside the case and accessible by opening the case or removing the trapdoor at the bottom of the computer. The external microSD card slot is conveniently on the back of the MEGA65.

NOTE: ALWAYS POWER OFF your MEGA65 before inserting or removing an SD card. This prevents data corruption or hardware issues.

To insert/remove an SD card, follow these steps:

INTERNAL SD CARD

Orient the SD card correctly with the label facing up, and insert the full-size SD card into the slot. Gently push the card in until it seats completely into place. To remove, grip the SD card by its sides and pull it out of the slot.

EXTERNAL MICRO SD CARD

Insert the microSD card into the rear slot with the label facing up. Gently push the card in until it clicks into place. To remove, push the microSD card in the slot until it clicks. This will release the microSD card and force it out of the slot so you can grab it with your fingers.

Use high-quality, reliable SD cards to ensure consistent performance and longevity. I have links to the cards I use in the link section.

You can “bootstrap” a new system using just an SD card and the SD Card Utility. Handy if you have “broken” your SD cards. Let’s learn how to do this next.

THE SD CARD UTILITY

The SD Card Utility will completely erase the contents of an SD card. While the utility will ask you to select an SD card to format, it’s a good practice to protect the internal SD card by removing it before using this utility. Use the following steps to load the SD Card Utility:

Switch off the MEGA65.
Hold the ALT key.
Switch the MEGA65 the on.
Select option 2 (SDCARD FDISK+FORMAT UTILITY). The SD Card Utility will open and scan for inserted SD cards.
Insert an SD card to prepare in either the external or internal slot.
Press R to re-scan for a card.
Choose a card slot; 0 for the internal SD card or 1 for the external microSD card.
Type DELETE EVERYTHING in all caps and Press RETURN to confirm SD card erasure and formatting.

You can abort the process by switching off the MEGA65; however, once the process starts, the SD Card is unusable until you restart the process.

REMEMBER: Formatting will erase all data on the SD card. Ensure you have backed up any important files before proceeding.

The SD Card Utility erases the SD card and creates two partitions. When finished, the utility prompts you to install the system files from a core. The core includes embedded system files, with filenames ending in .M65 and .ROM. Choose a core to use.

If you have an updated MEGA65 core in slot 1, select it. Otherwise, select the factory-installed MEGA65 core in slot 0. If you just received your MEGA65, slot 0 is the only option. The utility will use the chosen core to copy files to the FAT32 partition, making the card usable immediately, or “bootstrapped.” At the prompt, reboot the machine.

OBTAINING THE BUNDLED SOFTWARE

The MEGA65 Filehost contains a variety of files for your MEGA65 including ROMs, cores, and hundreds of games, demos, and applications produced by the MEGA65 community. It also includes the bundled software from the original SD card.

If you no longer have the bundled software files, follow these steps to download and transfer them to an SD card:

Visit the MEGA65 Filehost at files.mega65.org.
Download the bundled software files called ALL INTRO DISKS - Public.
Unzip the software download package (usually a double-click on the file).
Copy the files inside the folder to the root area of your new SD card.

The SD Card is now ready to use.

CONCLUSION

Time to close the user’s manual on Chapter 4. Want to ask questions, make suggestions, and get additional insights? Visit my Buy Me A Coffee page so you can learn how to join my Discord. I’ve created a separate channel for this series so the conversation can continue. You can get access to the Discord by joining at the Commodore VIC-20 level for only $2/month. Of course, I have other Commodore-inspired levels with additional perks, so check those out too. Get to configuring your MEGA65 and see you next time. 🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

MEGA65 User’s Guide Chapter 3

2024-05-20T00:00:00+00:00

Welcome to the retroCombs MEGA65 User’s Guide series. In this blog post and companion video, I continue our journey with Chapter 3 - Getting Started! We finally get hands-on with the MEGA65! We’ll explore the keyboard, learn basic operations, and I have a bonus not found in the manual, a fun BASIC program to showcase the MEGA65’s color and graphics capabilities. If you’ve not checked out chapters 1 and 2, please do that first before proceeding. It will help you better understand your MEGA65.

MEGA≡65 User’s Guide Series Page

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

Links
- MEGA≡65 Accessories
- MEGA≡65 Links:
SUPPORT THE BLOG AND CHANNEL
COMPANION YOUTUBE VIDEO
VIDEO ERRATA
KEYBOARD
- SPECIAL KEYS
THE SCREEN EDITOR
EDITOR FUNCTIONALITY
THE FREEZER MENU
RUNNING COMMODORE 64 SOFTWARE (GO64 MODE)
- GO64 Mode
- The C64 For MEGA65 FPGA Core
CONCLUSION

SUPPORT THE BLOG AND CHANNEL

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

COMPANION YOUTUBE VIDEO

Title: MEGA65 Keyboard, Editor & Freezer: The Basics (User’s Guide Ch. 3)

VIDEO ERRATA

None as of 2024-05-20.

KEYBOARD

Let’s begin the chapter and get acquainted with the MEGA65 keyboard which has a classic Commodore computer feel but with some cool extras. By the way, if you want an even deeper dive into this keyboard, check out my Master the MEGA65 with these Keyboard Shortcuts? and Addendum: Power Up Your MEGA65 with These Keyboard Shortcuts! videos. In these videos I take an exhaustive look at all keyboard functions and features. You’ll need some time. Together, these videos are about 90 minutes of amazing MEGA65 tips and tricks.

SPECIAL KEYS

The MEGA65 includes keys you’ll find on modern keyboards, those found on our favorite Commodore computers, and even a few special keys found only on the MEGA≡65. Let’s begin with the RETURN key.

RETURN - Enters the information you have typed into the MEGA≡65 memory. The late great Jim Butterfield characterized the pressing of the RETURN key with the words, “DO IT” and after you do it, the MEGA≡65 will either execute the command, store information into memory, or display an error message.

SHIFT - There are two SHIFT keys, one on the left and one on the right. These keystrokes are called Shifted Codes and, while similar to their modern counterparts, they have MEGA65 specific functions. Holding the SHIFT key and tapping a key with two front graphics will produce the right graphic. When the MEGA65 is in lowercase mode, holding SHIFT and an alpha character displays the uppercase version. You can switch between upper and lowercase mode by holding shift and tapping the MEGA key (More on this key later.). Holding SHIFT and a numeric/symbol key will produce the alternate character displayed on the key. As an example, to press F2, hold SHIFT + F1. Here are examples in the default uppercase mode using the keys A-S-Z-X-J-Q-W (♠-♥-♣-♠-●-○). Experiment with other keys and you’ll find you can create some interesting and fun drawings using just PETSCII characters.

What’s PETSCII? According to Wikipedia: PETSCII or, PET Standard Code of Information Interchange, is the character set used in Commodore Business Machines’ 8-bit home computers. This character set was first used by the PET from 1977, and was later used by the CBM-II, VIC-20, Commodore 64, Commodore 16, Commodore 116, Plus/4, and Commodore 128. Modern computers still contain some, but not all, of these characters as part of their American Standard Code for Information Interchange, or ASCII, character set.

SHIFT-LOCK - The MEGA65 includes a SHIFT LOCK key with an embedded LED and locking switch. Press SHIFT LOCK when it is necessary to type many uppercase characters. While active, you no longer have to press the SHIFT key to activate shifted characters. This includes graphic characters.

The CTRL key is a modifier key and these keystrokes are called Control Codes. Holding the CTRL key and tapping a key will produce a specific result. Holding down CTRL and press number 1 to 8 will change the cursor and character colors. CTRL with 9 and 0 switches reverse-text mode on and off. We’ll look at more Control Codes in Appendix C and we’ll see additional examples when we talk about the Screen Editor. Hold CTRL and press the * key will enter the Matrix Mode Debugger. This debugger is not covered in the MEGA≡65 User’s Guide; however, if you want me to cover other guides in the MEGA≡65 library. Drop a comment below and add your vote.

RUN/STOP Tap the RUN/STOP key to exit a running BASIC program. Some programs, especially assembly language programs, disable RUN/STOP. SHIFT + RUN/STOP will load the first program found on a floppy disk or attached disk image. Press and hold RUN/STOP while resetting the MEGA65 will enter the Machine Code Monitor. You can also use the MONITOR command.

RESTORE - Press and hold RUN/STOP and then tap RESTORE to restore the computer to a “clean state” without clearing the contents of memory. Programs can disable this feature and it rarely works with assembly language programs. Press and hold the RESTORE key for about a second and release when the screen border flickers. The Freezer will display. We’ll spend more time in the Freezer later.

CURSOR KEYS ↑ ↓ ← → - On the bottom right-hand side of the keyboard, unlike the Commodore VIC-20 and C64, but like the Plus/4 and C128, there are four cursor keys. The cursor keys move the cursor in the direction they point; either ↑, ↓, ←, or →. No need to keep tapping a cursor key to move it into multiple spaces; hold a key down instead. If your Commodore computer muscle memory is stuck on the two cursor configuration, you can use SHIFT + ↓ to move the cursor up and SHIFT + → to move the cursor left. Holding down these keys (including the SHIFT combinations) will move the cursor until you stop pressing them.

ARROW KEYS ← ↑ - The MEGA65 keyboard includes two arrow keys (don’t confuse these with cursor movements)); ↑ next to RESTORE and ← next to 1. To distinguish them, I will use (↑) and (←). Use (↑) to raise a number to a power. For instance, the immediate command: PRINT 2(↑)3 will display the number 8. Use (←) as a shortcut to SAVE a program to a disk or disk image as shown in the example:(←) "SUB TRACK SYS

Later I will show how to use these keys with Escape Codes.

TIP: A closing quotation is not a required after commands such as LOAD or SAVE. More about those commands in later chapters.

INSert/DELete - Press INST/DEL to delete a character to the left of the cursor and move all remaining characters on the line to the left one position. Press SHIFT + INST/DEL to move all characters to the right one position, leaving a blank space, as needed, or to insert another character. Holding either key combination will continue to insert and delete until you stop pressing them.

CLeaR/HOME - Press CLR/HOME to place the cursor at the top left-hand position on the MEGA65 screen. Press SHIFT + CLR/HOME to clear the entire screen and place the cursor at the top left-hand position on the MEGA65 screen. If you accidentally press CLR/HOME, you can return the cursor to the original position by tapping ESC followed by the CLR/HOME. Super handy and a nice quality of life addition from you friendly neighborhood MEGA65 developers.

MEGA - If the MEGA key shape seems familiar, here’s why. See the Commodore chicken lips logo? What if we remove the chicken’s lips and rotate them? Behold! The MEGA key!

The MEGA key is a modifier key. These keystrokes are called MEGA Codes. Holding the MEGA key and tapping a key with two front graphics or a single graphic symbol will produce the left graphic or single symbol. As mentioned earlier, holding SHIFT and tapping the MEGA key toggles between lower and uppercase character modes. Holding the MEGA key and tapping a number switches the color to the second color range, or the number key’s bottom color listing. Holding the MEGA key and tapping the TAB key activates the Matrix Mode Debugger.

TIP: While I don’t cover the functions available in the Matrix Mode Debugger, one handy tip is that this is a quick way to know which core is in use.

For long program listings, MEGA after using the LIST command to slow down the program listing a single line at a time. We’ll look at the LIST command in future chapters. Finally,

Holding the MEGA key while turning on or resetting the MEGA65 will boot to GO64 mode, or Commodore 64 mode. More on this mode later.

NO SCROLL - When you LIST a program, press NO SCROLL to toggle listing. This key does not work in GO64 mode.

FUNCTION KEYS - Software developers can program the MEGA65 function keys; however, many have native functions that we’ll cover later. To use odd number function keys, tap them. For even number function keys, hold SHIFT + a function key. Only function keys F1 → F8 are available in GO64 mode.

HELP - The HELP key can serve as function keys F15 and F16; however, it also has a programmer function. If you run into a syntax error when you run a BASIC program, press the HELP key and BASIC 65 will display the first line of code with an error.

ALT - The ALT key is a modifier key that software developers can use to add functionality to their software. Press and hold ALT while booting the MEGA65 to enter the MEGA65 Utility Menu. With this menu you can configure the MEGA65, format and prepare an SD card, and perform a keyboard test. This key is not available in GO64 mode.

CAPS LOCK - This key is similar to SHIFT LOCK but only works with alpha keys. CAPS LOCK a superpower. Press and hold the CAPS LOCK to force the processor to run at 40 MHz. While this is default speed in MEGA65 mode, GO64 mode defaults to the original 1 Mhz. Hold down CAPS LOCK while in GO64 will speed up loading from the SD card, a program de-pack process (you know, the flashing borders!), and slow program execution such as fractal generation.

THE SCREEN EDITOR

At the end of the last chapter, I teased that the joy of any Commodore computer, the MEGA65 included, is the wonder of what’s next when you power on the MEGA65 computer and are presented with the blue background and information found on the screen editor. It starts with the color bars in the top left-hand corner of the screen. They are not only attractive, but you can use them to calibrate the colors on your display. The screen editor also displays the MEGA65 title, copyright information for MEGA, Commodore, and Microsoft, the BASIC 65 label followed by the installed ROM version (we’ll learn what that means later), and the date and time of the internal RTC which we talked about in the last chapter. And then, where all the magic happens, the READY prompt with a flashing cursor below. Let’s look at basic, NOT BASIC, screen editor functions.

Type keys on the keyboard and they will be displayed on the screen. Simple, right?
Let’s draw a white bar across the screen. Press CTRL + 9 (or R). This activates reverse text mode. Now press and hold the SPACE bar and a white bar will be drawn across the screen.
If you want a different color, press and hold CTRL followed by the number key. To make a black bar, press and hold CTRL followed by the 1 key. When you press SPACE, the MEGA65 will display a black bar. Experiment using other number keys to create a display of colorful bars. When you are done, press and hold CTRL + 0 to disable reverse text mode.

TIP: I used this technique to create my MEGA65 Colors BASIC program.

As mentioned earlier, there’s another eight colors available when you press and hold the MEGA key instead of the CTRL key. You will find the color at the bottom front of the number keys. Reverse the text again and press and hold MEGA followed by 4. Press SPACE and a dark gray bar will display. The MEGA65 has an additional 16 colors you can access if you press and hold CTRL followed by A. You can experiment with those colors now, but we’ll spend more time with this colors when we cover Appendix C, Screen Editor Keys.

Those bars you typed early, while pretty, will cause an error code if you hit the DO IT! key, or RETURN. But if you type SHIFT and RETURN, the MEGA65 will not parse the line as code and move the cursor to the beginning of the next line. You can use this technique to draw on the screen.

Now let’s chat about two screen editor functions that confuse new Commodore users; quote and insert modes. These modes are features of BASIC 65 and will be used while programming.

Quote Mode

Let’s look at a line of BASIC programming.

10 PRINT "HELLO WORLD"

I won’t discuss the details of this BASIC code, YET!. However, you can probably determine what this line of code will do when you RUN the program. You enter quote mode when you type the first quotation mark of the line of code. Let’s try an example of quote mode without creating a line of BASIC code.

Hit the return key to move to a new line. You will get an error message. Ignore it.
On the new line, type the " key.
Now tap the CLR/HOME key. You probably expected the cursor to move to the top left-hand corner of the screen. Instead, BASIC 65 displays a character after the " symbol.
Turn off quote mode by ending the line with another " character.

If you include this quoted code behind a line number and the PRINT command, BASIC 65 will see that symbol and “press” the CLR/HOME key, or clear the screen and move the cursor to the top left-hand corner of the screen.

Insert Mode

By default, typing on the MEGA65 “overwrites” characters and spaces as you type. But what if you want to insert characters between others? That’s where Insert mode comes in. Press and hold SHIFT, followed by the INS/DEL, will provide a space, or spaces, for new characters and shift existing characters to the right. Quote mode is also in effect. Like quote mode, you can return to regular editing mode by tapping ESC + O.

Functions

During this chapter I’ve touched on the following keyboard functions:

Shifted Codes - Press and hold SHIFT followed by other keys
Control Codes - Press and hold CTRL followed by other keys
Mega Codes - Press and hold MEGA followed by other keys
Escape Sequences - Tap ESC (let up on the key) and tap another key

We take a deeper dive into these functions in Appendix C; however, let’s look at a few quality of life improvements we use with Escape Sequences.

`ESC` Sequences

As mentioned early, Escape Sequences differ from the other functions because you don’t hold down the ESC key; but you tap the ESC key and then tap the next key. Here’s a handy example:

Toggle 40/80 Column Mode: ESC + X
Switch to 40 Column Mode: ESC + 4
Switch 80 Column Mode: ESC + 8

EDITOR FUNCTIONALITY

The MEGA65 editor has several ways to move the cursor around the screen.

CTRL/HOME - Send the cursor to the home position or the top-left corner of the screen

CTRL + W - Moves the cursor to the next word, or printable character, in a line (known as the Word Advance Function)

CTRL + I - Moves to the next tab location 8 positions to the right (known as the Forward Tab Function)

TAB - Same as CTRL + I

NOTE: Unlike modern computers, SHIFT + TAB or SHIFT + CTRL + I does not execute a Backward Tab Function. But you can use CTRL + Z` instead.

If you need different tab stops, you can set those using CTRL + X. Let’s try an example:

Move the cursor to a new line with SHIFT + RETURN
Tap the SPACE four times
Press CTRL + X
Tap the TAB key two times
Tap the SPACE four times
Press CTRL + X

You have added two new tab stops to the default tab stops. You can remove these new tab or default tab stops by positioning the cursor and using CTRL + X.

Creating a Window

A window on the MEGA65 is similar to what you are thinking of, but doesn’t include a window frame or controls found in modern operating systems. Let me explain with this Escape Sequence example.

Reset the MEGA65
Move the cursor on top of the B of BASIC 65 on the MEGA65 start screen
Tap ESC and then tap T
Use the cursor keys and move down 10 rows and to the right 15 columns
Tap ESC and then tap B

Everything you type, or program you RUN and LIST, is now contained within that window. To clear the window, press CLR/HOME twice. The cursor will move back to the home position and remove the window but the previous contents of the window will remain on the screen.

Additional ASCII Characters

The MEGA65, unlike its older siblings, can create ASCII characters that are not part of the PETSCII character set. You can see these characters on the front of the corresponding MEGA65 keys but here’s a helpful table:

KEY	PETSCII	ASCII
Pound	£	\
Up Arrow	↑	^
Left Arrow	←	_
MEGA + :	┼	{
MEGA + .	⌇	\|
MEGA + \;	\|	}
MEGA + \,	π	~

To use ASCII characters, you have be in lower case mode and enter the FONT command followed by one of the following flags:

A - Sans Serif PETSCII font with several lowercase characters replaced with the ASCII characters shown in the table above (Default is uppercase)
B - Serif PETSCII font with several lowercase characters replaced with the ASCII characters shown in the table above (Default is uppercase)
C - Default Sans Serif PETSCII font (Default is uppercase)
D - Sans Serif PETSCII font with several lowercase characters replaced with the ASCII characters shown in the table above (Default is lowercase)
E - Serif PETSCII font with several lowercase characters replaced with the ASCII characters shown in the table above (Default is lowercase)
F - Default Sans Serif PETSCII font (Default is lowercase)

Let’s look at an example:

Reset the MEGA65.
Tap ESC + 4 to switch to 40 column (this will make the characters easier to see).
Type FONT A and press RETURN, the READY prompt will return and it will look like nothing has changed.
Use MEGA + SHIFT to switch to lowercase mode.
Hold down the MEGA key and tap the : + ; + , + . keys and ASCII characters will appear instead of PETSCII characters.
Type FONT C and the ASCII characters will be replaced by PETSCII characters.

TIP: FONT options D, E, and F eliminate the need to switch to lowercase because lowercase mode is their default option.

Uppercase and Lowercase

Although we’ve already covered it several times in this chapter, to stay with the flow of the manual, I’ll mention again that you switch between upper and lowercase modes by holding down MEGA and tapping the SHIFT keyboard combination. If nothing else, you should have this one memorized by now!

Chapter three is full of features that were a part of the original Commodore 65 design and some new improvements by the MEGA65 team. The Freezer Menu is an example of a tool that is entirely the work of the MEGA65 team and gives the MEGA65 a huge usability boost.

To display the Freezer Menu, press and hold the RESTORE key for about a second. The MEGA65 will freeze its current state (don’t worry, everything is still in memory), the border will flash and the Freezer Menu will appear. This menu has many options. I’ll cover the disk options in Chapter 6 and the MEGA65 Information Utility in Chapter 5, but here are three options to get you started:

F3 - Exit the Freezer Menu and resume using the MEGA65
F5 - Abandon the program previously running and reset the MEGA65
J - Swap the Joystick Ports because how many times have you plugged the joystick into the wrong port?

Now let’s talk about the magic that is the Freezer Menu. Not only does this menu freeze the MEGA65 contents, but it can save the state of computer even if you power off the MEGA65! And it’s super simple:

Press the → cursor key to find an unused freeze slot
Press F7 and the MEGA65 border will blink to show it is saving the state
Press F3 to resume using the MEGA65
Press RESTORE for a second to return to the Freezer Menu
Use the ← and → cursor keys to locate a preferred state
Press F3 to select the state, load, and use it

TIP: The Freezer Menu works in both MEGA65 and GO64 modes. The images even change to their respective computer compatibility to make it easier to determine which mode has been saved and will be loaded.

RUNNING COMMODORE 64 SOFTWARE (GO64 MODE)

A feature of the abandoned Commodore 64DX (or C65) was the ability to play Commodore 64 titles like its 8-bit predecessor, the Commodore 128. It does this using an emulation feature calledGO64 mode. Since the MEGA65 seeks to copy all Commodore 65 functionality, it too includes GO64 mode, but because the brain of the MEGA65 is an FPGA, the community can create a custom core that “rewires and replaces the internal circuitry” to convert the MEGA65 into a Commodore 64 rather than just emulating one. Let’s look at both options.

GO64 Mode

The MEGA65, and the original C65, use a different processor than a Commodore 64. Unlike GO64 mode on the C128, the MEGA65 is not nearly as compatible with all Commodore 64 software. I’ve found the MEGA65 does well with cracked games (elimination of copy protection), but often fails with utilities that exploit the hardware. Maybe someone in the community will one day create a compatibility chart for us? Is that someone you? Let me know in the comments below.

To use Commodore 64 emulation mode on the MEGA65, type GO64 or GO 64. When prompted type Y followed by RETURN. The MEGA65 will switch to the familiar Commodore 64 boot screen color but has a custom start screen title: **** MEGA65 GO64 BASIC V2 ****

There are two other ways you can boot into GO64 Mode:

Hold the MEGA key and power on or reset the computer.
Turn off the MEGA65. Plug in a Commodore 64 cartridge. Turn on the MEGA65. It will boot directly into GO64 mode and load the cartridge, if it is compatible.

As a reminder, in GO64 mode, the Freezer Menu is still available. This means you can use it to mount .D81 disk images. .D81 files are currently the only image files compatible with the Freezer Menu but you can plug in a 1541 drive to access real floppy disks. Alternatively you, you can plug in an SD2IEC or Pi1541 to read .D64 images. Remember, a stock MEGA65 does not include a tape drive port. Many SD2IEC devices require this port.

The C64 For MEGA65 FPGA Core

If you want a highly compatible Commodore 64 experience that reads .d64 disk images by default, you want to install the C64 For MEGA65 Core by MJoergen and sy2002. We’ll learn how to download and install cores in Chapter 5. If you’d like a preview of the latest version, check out the link below:

https://github.com/MJoergen/C64MEGA65

The core is a complete replacement for the MEGA65 hardware and features. It even includes its own menu (the MEGA65 Freezer Menu is no longer available) to make hardware modifications and to access .d64 images. I’ve found this core to be highly compatible and a wonderful addition to the MEGA65. Before you ask, YES! There are cores for other computers. But that’s for another chapter.

CONCLUSION

Want to ask questions, make suggestions, and get additional insights? Visit my Buy Me A Coffee page so you can learn how to join my Discord. I’ve created a separate channel for this series so the conversation can continue. The only way you have access, and to keep our nasty SPAMbots, is to support the channel. You can get access to the Discord by joining at the Commodore VIC-20 level for only $2/month. Of course, I have other Commodore-inspired levels with additional perks, like the MEGA65 level!

See you next time, retroCombs, OUT!

MEGA65 User’s Guide Chapter 2

2024-03-31T00:00:00+00:00

Remember the anticipation of setting up your first Commodore computer; taking it out of the box, flipping through the manual, connecting those chunky power supplies, your first READY prompt on the screen wondering what you do next? You can relive those moments today with the MEGA65!

Next in the retroCombs MEGA65 User’s Guide series, we channel that nostalgic feeling. It’s time to cover the Chapter 2 - Setup!

MEGA≡65 User’s Guide Series Page

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

Links
- MEGA≡65 Accessories
- MEGA≡65 Links:
SUPPORT THE BLOG AND CHANNEL
COMPANION YOUTUBE VIDEO
VIDEO ERRATA
CHAPTER 2 WELCOME
UNPACKING AND CONNECTING THE MEGA65
REAR CONNECTIONS
SIDE CONNECTIONS
BOTTOM
INSTALLING THE REAL-TIME CLOCK (RTC) BATTERY
CONNECTING DEVICES TO THE MEGA≡65
MEGA65 SCREEN and PERIPHERALS
THE INTRO DISK
THE CURSOR
CONCLUSION

SUPPORT THE BLOG AND CHANNEL

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

COMPANION YOUTUBE VIDEO

Title: MEGA65 Setup: Unbox to “READY” Prompt (User’s Guide Ch. 2)

VIDEO ERRATA

None as of 2024-03-31.

CHAPTER 2 WELCOME

In Chapter 2 of the MEGA65 User’s Guide, we’re covering the essentials: unboxing, connecting peripherals, and the exciting first power up. So, grab your manual and let’s get your MEGA65 ready to compute!

UNPACKING AND CONNECTING THE MEGA65

Unboxing your MEGA65 is a fun experience and I shared my unboxing experience during a livestream. You can watch that livestream and my first reaction. Go check it out now. I’ll be here when you get back.

Thanks for returning! What you noticed while watching this video was that the box includes these items:

MEGA65 computer: If your box didn’t include one, we’ve got troubles!
Power Supply: The team even includes various plug adapters for your neck of the woods.
The MEGA65 User’s Guide: The book you are using to follow along with me in this series.
Personal Registration Code (probably inside the User’s Guide): Don’t share this with anyone or make the mistake of sharing it online until you have used it to register on the Filehost.
SD card: The SD card is pre-installed, but leave it alone for now. We’ll learn more about it in chapter four.

There are some additional items you need including:

CRT monitor or TV for those retro scan lines vibe or a modern HD display. Either must include a VGA port or a digital video input, also known as HDMI. The display must be capable of displaying an image at 480p (720x480) at 60Hz for NTSC or 576p (720x576) at 50Hz for PAL.
If you use a VGA display, you will need a 3.5mm cable and a set of powered speakers (stereo preferred). Some powered speakers use RCA plugs so a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable is good to have on hand.
A SDHC microSD card, between 4GB and 32GB.
An RJ45 Ethernet cable and eventually something to connect the other end into! More later.
CR2032 battery for the real-time clock.
Philips head screwdriver because, yes, it is okay to open the MEGA65 and is required for some tasks.
9-pin DIN Joystick. I recommend a readily available $16 Hyperkin Trooper if you don’t have one lying around.
A Commodore 1531 mouse, an Amiga mouse, a mouSTer USB mouse adapter, or a Tank Mouse. Eventually, you’ll want to give GEOS for the MEGA≡65 a try!

Here’s the good news. You have time to pick up many of these items. The only things we need for the first few chapters are a display with sound, and a Philips screwdriver. I’m sure you have both in your home right now.

Not sure where to purchase? I have links to everything you need in the video description below and on my MEGA65 Resource page.

REAR CONNECTIONS

Before we connect any peripherals, let’s take an inventory of the connections on the MEGA≡65 beginning with the rear of the computer. We have a:

3.5mm Audio Jack - connect to a set of powered speakers.
External microSD card slot - we’ll use the internal and included SD card for now.
Network LAN, or Ethernet, port - no Wi-Fi on the MEGA65 out of the box, but stay tuned for the expansion board that will include this feature.
Digital Video Connector - also known as HDMI.
VGA Video Connector - to connect to more retro monitors. You’ll notice no composite out, that too is coming soon with the release of the expansion board.
IEC Serial Bus Connector - Plug in devices such as original Commodore disk drives, printers, and modern devices such as a Pi1541.
Cartridge Expansion Port - Plug in and use C64 cartridges. No MEGA65 cartridges at the time of this video, but let’s keep our fingers crossed.
Power Supply Socket - ??V DC and I recommend you stick to this power adapter to better to protect your MEGA65.

SIDE CONNECTIONS

On the left side of the MEG65 from left to right we find a:

Power Switch - which toggle a hard reset or on/off with a pleasing thunk!
Controller Port 2 (sometimes referred to as Joy 2) for a mouse or joystick
Controller Port 1 (sometimes referred to as Joy 1) for a mouse or joystick
Reset Button - soft reset with a tap of the momentary button.

BOTTOM

On the bottom of the computer is a single trap door that provides access to the internal SD card.

INSTALLING THE REAL-TIME CLOCK (RTC) BATTERY

Before we power on the MEGA65, let’s install a CR2032 battery into real-time clock, or RTC. Why? The RTC allows your MEGA≡65 to keep track of the time and date. This is useful to display date and time on the startup screen, use accurate date and time across programs, and to add timestamps to files written on the SD card. You’ll notice the MEGA≡65 team does not include a battery in the box. This makes international shipping easier for the MEGA≡65 team.

NOTE: My MEGA≡65 had the RTC bug. It simply didn’t work. The MEGA≡65 team came up with a slick solution, an add-on RTC. You’ll see it in my videos and I wanted to explain it before someone asks about it in the comments.

Before you insert the battery, ensure the MEGA≡65 is off, grab a Philips head screwdriver, and remove the screws from the bottom of the MEGA65. Here’s a tip. I never put the screws back into the MEGA65. I find it easier to access the internal SD card than to use the trapdoor on the bottom.

Slowly open up the case. The user’s guide mentions removing the keyboard cable. If you are cautious, you can simply fold the keyboard over the top of the lower case.

Inside you will find a slot for the CR2032. Insert a fresh battery and place the keyboard back on top of the bottom of the case. Again, you can choose to replace the screws; or not.

We’ll learn how to set the time and date after we boot the MEGA≡65 for the first time.

CONNECTING DEVICES TO THE MEGA≡65

Let’s connect the minimum devices needed to get started:

Connect the MEGA≡65 to any size modern television or monitor using an HDMI cable connected to the computer’s digital video connector.
Connect a joystick, with a 9-pin DIN connector, to joystick port 1.
Connect the power adapter barrel jack to the MEGA≡65 and then to a powered outlet.

You’ll notice there are still lots of unused ports. That’s okay. As your knowledge of the MEGA≡65 increases, you’ll learn how and why to use these other ports.

MEGA65 SCREEN and PERIPHERALS

Alright, take a deep breath and flip up that power button! If all went well, you will see the “on-boarding” screen.

Hit a snag? Don’t panic! The User’s Guide has a troubleshooting section. Here are a couple of common hiccups:

No Signal: Double-check your monitor connections and make sure you’ve selected the right input.
Strange Behavior: Try reseating the cables, and if in doubt, a power cycle can often fix little quirks.
Still Nothing: The MEGA65 community is your lifeline. Ask for help on their forums or Discord!

The MEGA≡65 boots up to a configuration screen where you set the time and date on the real-time clock, change the video display mode, test the audio, and choose scan lines. While you won’t see this screen again, we’ll use another tool to choose these changes later.

TIP: If you must, you can return to the onboarding screen at a later time by:

Holding the ALT key down.

Turn on the the MEGA≡65.

Choose option “1. CONFIGURE MEGA65”.

Cursor right to “DONE”.

Select “EXIT AND REBOOT TO ONBOARDING”.

Power-cycle the MEGA≡65 and the onboarding screen will reappear. <–???

Set Time and Date on the RTC

Use F3 through F13 changes the time and date.

F3: sets hours
F5: sets minutes
F7: sets seconds
F9: sets the day
F11: sets the month
F13: sets the year

Hold shift and any of these keys reverses the direction of the changes.

Set Video Mode

Next you can set the video mode:

↹ (TAB): Cycles through video mode options
␣ (SPACE): Sets the selection and confirm you wish to test the video mode
K: Keeps the video mode

There are four video modes available:

DVI (no sound) NTSC 60Hz (bring your own powered speakers with the 3.5mm audio jack)
DVI (no sound) PAL 50Hz
Enhanced (with sound), NTSC 60Hz
Enhanced (with sound), PAL 50Hz

Don’t worry if the screen doesn’t display properly. The screen will revert to the previous mode after 15 seconds so you can make another selection.

Test Audio

Pressing the A key will play audio to test sound (close encounters anyone?). Do this to make sure your audio setup works properly.

CRT Emulation

For our example, we connected a modern display to the MEGA≡65; however, back in the day, most folks connected their Commodore computers to cathode ray tube (CRT) televisions. CRTs used horizontal scan lines that were visible to the user. Some Commodore software took advantage of these scan lines to affect game appearance, and many users turn on scan lines to maintain a true 1980s look and feel to their 8-bit games.

You can “Enable or Disable” CRT emulation with a simple tap of the C key. Note that the screen will dim when you use CRT emulation mode.

Save Selection

Once everything is correct on the page, hit ⏎ (RETURN) on the keyboard to save the changes and exit the screen. We’ll learn how to change these and many other settings in chapter 4. For now, time to enjoy some software!

THE INTRO DISK

After you save the changes to the on-boarding screen, version 2 of the MEGA≡65 intro disk will load the demo menu. The introduction disk is a collection of MEGA≡65 software created by the community. Heck, I even have a few titles on there. You’ll find all kinds of software, from games to demos to productivity to utilities.

TIP: You can download the entire Intro Disk contents at: https://files.mega65.org?id=all-intros

On the menu you’ll find the following options:

1) DISK 01 (2022)
2) DISK 03 (2023)
3) DISK 01 (2024)
D) DISABLE AUTO-BOOT TO MENU SYSTEM
/) EXIT TO BASIC 65

The first three options select a disk with software developed during the listed years. Tap D to disable auto-boot of the intro disk. If you disable auto-boot, powering up the computer will display the BASIC 65 screen. BASIC 65 is the version of BASIC that comes with the MEGA≡65. Finally, tap / to exit the intro disk and display the BASIC 65 screen.

The compansion video includes small taste. Take some time and have some fun playing games and demos to learn about your new MEGA≡65’s capabilities.

THE CURSOR

Before we end this chapter, let’s talk briefly about the MEGA≡65’s BASIC 65 screen. On this screen you’ll see color bars on the top-left and in the top-middle, information about your MEGA≡65 including copyrights, ROM version (more on ROMs later), as well as the date and time from the RTC.

Below you’ll find the READY prompt followed by a flashing cursor. This is where all the magic happens and this brings us back to the beginning of this video; the joy of wondering; what’s next? Here’s a sneak peek.

We can use this area to type characters, issue commands in immediate mode, program in BASIC and with the MONITOR command program in assembly language. Hold tight though! We’ll get to these topics in future chapters.

CONCLUSION

And with that, your MEGA65 is ready to explore! Setup is only the first step in your MEGA≡65 journey. In chapter 3 we’ll learn more about the keyboard, the screen editor, the freezer menu, and how to run Commodore 64 software.

Want to ask questions, make suggestions, and get additional insights? Visit my Buy Me A Coffee page so you can learn how to join my Discord. I’ve created a separate channel for this series so the conversation can continue and the only way you can join this conversation is to support the channel. You can get access to the Discord by joining at the Commodore VIC-20 level for only $2/month. Of course, I have other Commodore inspired levels with additional perks, so be sure to check those out too. See you next time and before you leave, check out chapter 1 video if you missed it and my introduction video to the MEGA≡65.

See ya next time and retroCombs, OUT!

MEGA65 User’s Guide Chapter 1

2024-03-12T00:00:00+00:00

Welcome to the first in a new series: The MEGA65 User’s Guide! I’m going to open up version 2 of the user’s guide, and together, we’re going to go through it chapter-by-chapter.

When the series is complete, you will have a compendium of all the information you need to begin using a MEGA65. Let’s get started with Chapter 1 – Introduction and if you want to see the entire series, use the link below:

MEGA≡65 User’s Guide Series Page

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

Links
- MEGA≡65 Accessories
- MEGA≡65 Links:
SUPPORT THE BLOG AND CHANNEL
COMPANION YOUTUBE VIDEO
VIDEO ERRATA
ABOUT THE USER’S GUIDE
WELCOME TO THE MEGA65
JOIN THE COMMUNITY
CONCLUSION

SUPPORT THE BLOG AND CHANNEL

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

COMPANION YOUTUBE VIDEO

Title: MEGA65 Intro: Your Retro Journey Begins (User’s Guide Ch. 1)

VIDEO ERRATA

None as of 2024-03-12.

ABOUT THE USER’S GUIDE

The original manual was included with the first batch of MEGA65s delivered in 2022. Since then, the MEGA65 has continued to receive core and hardware updates. In 2024, in anticipation of the next MEGA65 batch release scheduled for the Summer, the MEGA65 team released version two of the guide, which I’ll be using for this video series. Even if you don’t own a MEGA65, there are three ways you can get your own guide:

Download the PDF version.
Visit Lulu and order a printed version.
Order a MEGA65, and you’ll find one in the box when it arrives.

The User’s Guide is one volume in an entire library of free MEGA65 PDF books available, including:

The MEGA65 User’s Guide: https://mega65.org/user-guide - The volume I’ll cover in this video series.
The MEGA65 Developer’s Guide: https://mega65.org/developer-guide - Information to help you write programs for the MEGA65.
The MEGA65 BASIC 65 Reference: https://mega65.org/basic65-ref - BASIC 65 commands, functions, and operations documentation.
The MEGA65 Chipset Reference: https://mega65.org/chipset-ref - Information about the MEGA65’s custom chips.
The MEGA65 Complete Compendium: https://mega65.org/mega65-book - All volumes in a single PDF.

For more information, you can visit the MEGA65 Confluence Wiki. Once again, all the links you need are in the video description and on my own MEGA65 Resource.

Once you have your user’s guide in hand, you can also contribute using the MEGA65 User’s Guide issue tracker

WELCOME TO THE MEGA65

Congratulations on your purchase of the MEGA65! That seems like an appropriate welcome, right? And that’s how Chapter one of the user’s guide begins, but let’s dig a little deeper into the MEGA65’s history.

Remember the Commodore 64? That iconic 80s computer that launched countless gaming and coding adventures? Imagine if its planned successor, the 1990s Commodore 65, had actually been released. That project may have been shelved, but thanks to a dedicated team of retro enthusiasts, that dream is now a reality in a computer called the MEGA65! Together with the MEGA65 development team, I created an An Introduction to the MEGA65 video. Go watch that video now. Don’t worry, I’ll be right here when you come back.

Great video, right? Glad you liked it.

As you learned, the MEGA65 is a living, breathing project. It’s constantly evolving with community-driven updates that expand its capabilities. Whether you pine for a Commodore 64 or 128 successor, you missed the 8-bit era and want to see what the fuss is about, or you’re a tech enthusiast excited about what you can create with an FPGA, the MEGA65 is for you.

And because the MEGA65 is under active development with a thriving community, I have a feeling the newer chapters in the MEGA65 User’s Guide are yet to be written!

JOIN THE COMMUNITY

To get the most out of the MEGA65, you really need to join the aforementioned community. I can tell you, first-hand, that the MEGA65 community is a fun, informative, and supportive group and you can find them in two primary locations:

The MEGA65 Discord: https://mega65.org/chat
The MEGA65 Forum: https://mega65.org/forum

Which ever way you choose to interact with the community, you’ll find the latest information, tips, tricks, and supportive community.

CONCLUSION

I hope this post and the companion video piques your interest in the MEGA65 and you’ll choose to follow me along this exciting journey through the MEGA65 User’s Guide. I’ll post the next chapter soon. In the meantime, hit like, subscribe, and alerts so you don’t miss the next chapter.

Want to ask questions, make suggestions, and get additional insights? Visit my Buy Me A Coffee page so you can learn how to join my Discord. I’ve created a separate channel for this series so the conversation can continue and the only way you can join this conversation, is to support the channel. Don’t worry though, you can get access to the Discord by joining at the Commodore VIC-20 level for only $2/month. Of course, I have other Commodore inspired levels with additional perks, so be sure to check those out too.

retroCombs, OUT!

The DigiMuz for the Commodore Plus/4 and C16

2024-01-01T00:00:00+00:00

Today, we’re diving into a lesser-known chapter of Commodore history: the DigiMuz sound expansion for the Commodore TED series of computers, the Commodore C16 and Plus/4. Get ready for a story of teenage tinkerers, forgotten prototypes, and the power of community to bring lost tech back to life.

I want to thank supporter of the channel, Chris, for his love of the Commodore Plus/4 and making me aware of and sending me a rare DigiMuz.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

Companion Video:
Video Errata
History
Specification
Using the DigiMuz
BASIC Program Example
Demos and Games
Can You Get One?
Conclusion

Companion Video:

Video Title: 🎼️ The DigiMuz: Uncovering a Lost Chapter of Commodore Plus/4 History

In the video below, I share highlights of the Plus/4 Encyclopedia.

Video Errata

None as of 2024-01-01.

History

Our journey begins in Poland during the early 1990s. It’s here we meet a young Sylwester Kuna, better known online as BKP. I reached out to Sylwester and he was kind enough to share much his history with the DigiMuz for this video.

As a Commodore enthusiast, BKP stumbled upon something special: a one of only 12 expansion board prototypes created by Tadeusz Zawadowski for the Commodore Plus/4 called the DigiMuz.

This expansion board packed a serious audio punch, pushing the sound capabilities of the Commodore Plus/4 to something more akin to the Commodore 64’s SID chip.

But BKP wasn’t just a collector; he was a programmer. Inspired by the DigiMuz’s potential, he created programs that took advantage of the DigiMuz with the most famous being Castle Dance.

BKP began work on a Music Tracker for the DigiMuz, but abandoned the project and the DigiMuz when he purchased his first Amiga.

He also create a few demos and you can this work on his Plus/4 World profile page. BKP @Plus/4 World

But, after 30 years and while breaking out his old Commodore Plus/4 cassette tapes, found he was able to recover most of his old DigiMuz programs. He uploaded them to Plus/4 World and then, decided to resurrected the DigiMuz with new components and technology; breathing new life into this forgotten piece of Commodore Plus/4 history. But BKP did remove a feature from the original. According to BKP;

The original cartridge contained an EPROM with an extended BASIC interpreter for functions controlling the card, but I never really used them and they had very limited capabilities, so my version is devoid of this memory.

But this removal didn’t dissuade others from developing for the DigiMuz. Legion of Doom wanted a piece of the action and gave us to games Tetris 2K21 and Nu, Pogodi! (Well, Just You Wait!). Ulysses777 gave us a platformer game called Dizzy Three and a Half.

BKP goes on to explain that because DigiMuz hardware was limited, emulation was the best option to make enhanced Plus/4 audio available to everyone:

When the forum administrators learned my story, they expanded the YAPE emulator to synthesize sounds from the card (I was a beta tester :) ) and wrote some programs using DIGIMUZ

The Yet Another Plus/4 Emulator, or YAPE, added this support in version 1.2. This means anyone, anywhere, can experience and/or develop unique sounds on the DigiMuz through the magic of emulation. Unfortunately, YAPE is only available for Windows but an advantage is YAPE supports the unreleased 364’s text to speech capabilities.

Let’s take a deeper look at the DigiMuz and see what makes this thing tick, or make any other sounds.

Specification

The DigiMuz uses a Yamaha YM2149 AY chip which is a clone of the original General Instruments AY-3-8910 designed by Yamaha. This original chip was used in game machines like the Intellivision and computers like the ZX Spectrum. The AY chip was licensed in the 80s, and used in several MSX1 and MSX2 computers. It has some retro sound cred.

It is a three-channel sound chip and can play three different sounds simultaneously. The AY chip is known for its warm, analog sound, which is perfect for games and music.

Sound from the Yamaha chip is piped, not through the TED, but directly from the DigiMuz through an onboard 3.5 mm audio jack.

The chip also has a built-in envelope generator that allows you to control the attack, decay, sustain, and release of your sounds.

How does this differ from the stock TED chip in the Commodore Plus/4 and C16?

In comparison, Commodore’s Plus/4 TED chip has a simple tone generator that produces two channels of audio. The first channel produces a square wave, and the second can produce either a square wave or white noise. Between the two channels, you could hear either two tones or one tone plus noise.

To further compare, the Commodore 64’s famous SID chip has three channels and can generate three independent voices simultaneously, each with its own waveform, frequency, and volume. Each voice can generate four different waveforms: pulse wave (with variable duty cycle), triangle wave, sawtooth wave, and pseudo-random noise (called white noise in documentation).

Here’s a comparison table that provides this information and as well as a comparison to the VIC-20’s audio generator, the VIC chip.

Using the DigiMuz

The DigiMuz fits into the cartridge port of the Plus/4 or C16. My unit is wide and it took some effort to insert. I might take some sandpaper to the sides and I wish the PCB would fit in a cartridge case that I can 3D print. I can’t narrow the PCB to fit inside a case because there are components on the edge. So this will just have to be a naked cartridge while in use.

I mentioned earlier that BKP took out the BASIC calls from ROM to the DigiMuz; however, you can program the device directly using machine language or via POKE commands. I’m not a machine language programmer, but let’s see if we can get some sounds out of the device using BASIC.

BASIC Program Example

Plus/4 World includes information to program the DigiMuz using assembly language; however, to make this more approachable, Chris and I have converted to POKE commands to let you write for the DigiMuz using BASIC.

POKE	Function
64803,7	Select Register 7 (Enable Tone A)
64802,253	Write 253 to Register 7
64803,8	Select Register 8 (volume)
64802,10	Write 10 to Register 8
64803,0	Select Register 0 (Tone)
64802,85	Write 85 to Register 0

Chris put together a quick BASIC program for us to try. Let’s give it a try.

10  poke 64803,7
20  poke 64802,254
30  poke 64803,8
40  poke 64802,6
50  poke 64803,0
60  for y=1 to 100
70  poke 64802,Y
80  next Y
90  poke 64803,1
100 poke 64802,1
110 goto 10

Demos and Games

Let’s conclude this video by taking a longer look at some demos and games. Here’s are the titles I found on Plus/4 World.

If you know of any others, please drop your comments below.

Can You Get One?

As of this video, BKP only has one DigiMuz available for $50. If you’d like to purchase this last remaining DigiMuz, reach out to me via email and I’ll connect you to BKP. Count on some stiff shipping fees from Poland to the USA (about $35).

And it looks like interest in the DigiMuz is picking by way of two hardware projects:

First there a variation in development, the DigiMoooz. That’s three o’s folks! And it looks hotter than hot chocolate on a cold winter’s evening!

And if you are interested in an integrated solution, the Little Sixteen Board creators want to integrate DigiMuz audio features into their Plus/4 motherboard replacement.

If the creators of either of these devices would like me to take a look these creations when they are complete, please reach out to me.

Conclusion

Hope you enjoyed this really unexplored road across the Commodore Plus/4’s history, I have lots of other great Plus/4 content including my Commodore Plus/4 User’s Guide series.

Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the Plus/4 as I go chapter by chapter through the User’s Guide.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Install the MEGA≡65 Emulator on the Clockwork uConsole

2023-10-14T00:00:00+00:00

In this post and companion video, I share how to install the XEMU MEGA≡65 emulator, xmega65, on the Clockwork uConsole to create an amazing on-the-go handheld MEGA≡65. We can use this hardware and emulator until the release of the official MEGA≡65 handheld, the MEGAphone.

After playing with my handheld MEGA≡65 for awhile, I’m under the opinion that the MEGA≡65 developers should add the uConsole to their list of supported hardware, create a bare metal version of the XEMU emulator, and call it day. This will get a handheld MEGA≡65 in the hands of more fans immediately!

You can follow every step in the process using the uConsole keyboard; however, I prefer to create an SSH connection to the uConsole and use iTerm on Mac OS to connect and administer the uConsole remotely. I should also mention that these steps work with any Raspberry Pi 3 or greater.

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links
uConsole Preparation
Download XEMU Emulator
Build XEMU on the uConsole
Run the MEGA≡65 emulator
Install the MEGA≡65 ROM
Download my Script
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Create an Amazing Handheld MEGA65 with the Clockwork uConsole and XEMU

Video Errata

None as of 2023-10-14.

Links

Disclosure Statement: When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations may include, but are not limited to Amazon and the eBay Partner Network.

uConsole Preparation

Before you install the emulator, you must have first completed these general steps:

Assemble the uConsole.
Insert the included Raspbian OS SD card.
Boot the uConsole.
Use sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade to update Raspian OS.

Download XEMU Emulator

The next step is to download the emulator:

Visit the Xemu Download Page. While first instinct is to download the - Ubuntu Linux DEB package, this will unfortunately not work. We have some work to do.
Click the Visit Project button in the upper-right corner or visit the Xemu Project Page directly.
Scroll down to ### [Install software for compilation](https://github.com/lgblgblgb/xemu#install-software-for-compilation). We will use these instructions to compile a version of xmega65, the MEGA≡65 emulator, for Raspbian OS. This download also includes other Commodore emulators you can play with later.
Raspbian needs software to build the emulator. Use the command sudo apt install git build-essential libsdl2-dev libgtk-3-dev libreadline-dev to upgrade and install required tools. You can also copy and past this code.
Make sure you are in your home directory with the command cd ~.
Copy the GitHub repository to your home location with the command git clone https://github.com/lgblgblgb/xemu.git.

Build XEMU on the uConsole

We cannot use a .deb package and must compile the emulator software directly on the uConsole using the steps below:

Use the command ls and you will see a new folder with the name xemu.
Enter the directory using the command, cd xemu.
Build the software using the command make. This process will take several minutes. The process relies on the Raspbian Pi CM4’s speed. You may see some errors; however, ignore those. This will build all the emulators. If you only want to build the MEGA≡65 emulator, use these commands instead:
```
cd targets
ls -l
cd mega65
make
cd ../..
```

Run the MEGA≡65 emulator

It’s now time to start the emulator.

NOTE: If connected to the uConsole via SSH, disconnect and move back to the uConsole.

The emulators are in the directory build/bin. Use the command build/bin/xmega65.native to load the xmega65 emulator.
Follow the prompts to configure the emulator. Don’t worry about the errors. These are normal. Select Yes for every option.

After you’ve moved through a bunch of dialog boxes, you will finally be at the “Your emulated MEGA65 seems to work screen.” with an animated background.

Install the MEGA≡65 ROM

Use the instructions below to install the MEGA≡65 ROM into the emulator.

NOTE: I’m an owner of a Dev Kit and a MEGA≡65 and have legal access to the ROM. You don’t have to purchase a MEGA≡65 to get the ROM. You can purchase the C64Forever package, which includes an original Commodore 65 ROM, and then use tools found on the MEGA≡65 FileHost to patch that ROM to the latest version. You can find instructions here.

Download the latest stable ROM using the uConsole.
Start the MEGA≡65 emulator.
Right-click in the Emulator window and select Disks/SD card/Update files on SD image. A file selector dialog box will appear.
Select the ROM file downloaded earlier. A confirmation dialog box will appear.
clock the OK button to restart the emulator with the new ROM.

Use the emulator with your favorite .d81 disk images or develop your own programs in BASIC 65.

Download my Script

In the video, I mention a script and resources I’ve created to add a XEMU xmega65 emulator item to the Raspbian OS menu. You can find more information using the link below:

Raspbian XEMU MEGA≡65 Menu Item Script

Join the Fun

Would you like to see more of the MEGA≡65 emulator running on the uConsole? Post a comment below.

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other MEGA≡65 posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if so inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

The First Commodore Joystick: VIC-1311

2023-08-21T00:00:00+00:00

Welcome to a tale woven with the threads of rivalry. A competition that unfolds in the early 1980s, vying for the allegiance of 8-bit gaming enthusiasts. But this contest doesn’t involve video consoles or computers. It’s a tale of a joystick that ignited a legal action by one of the manufacturer’s fiercest competitors. Our journey commences with none other than the $10 (in 1982 money) Commodore VIC-20 (1311) Joystick.

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links
Commodore VIC 1311 Joystick
My Brush with Atari Joystick IP
Commodore 1311 Joystick
My New Logo
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: The Controversial History of the Commodore VIC 1311 Joystick!

Video Errata

None as of 2023-08-21.

Links

Hyperkin RetroN 77
Hyperkin Ranger Controller
Hyperkin Trooper Controller
Commodore VIC 1311 Joystick

The VIC 1311 joystick, the first joystick to use the 1311 nomenclature, was released in 1981 as a gaming peripheral for the newly released Commodore VIC-20 personal computer.

As you look at the joystick, notice anything, familiar?

It’s evident that the Commodore VIC 1311 joystick was a clone of the Atari Steve Bristow designed CX10 that debuted with the original Atari 2600 in 1977. The CX10 used springs and contact switches and was manufactured for a year before it received a cost reduction redesign, the CX40 created by designer James C. Asher.

So who designed the Commodore VIC 1311? I think we can credit Steve Bristow for the exterior design and James Asher for the internals. But they weren’t Commodore employees. So what happened? Who signed off on this blatant intellectual property rip off? Who knows? I wanted to but even reaching out to Bil Herd and the Commodore International Historical Society led to a dead end. If you have information that can lead us to the individual responsible for the joystick replication, please leave a comment. Some proof would be nice.

The joystick’s form factor is so similar to the Atari 2600 CX40 joystick that it makes on wonder if Commodore didn’t use the same manufacturer or steal some molds (that just conjecture on my part). When you compare the Commodore VIC 1311 with the CX40 for the Atari XE series computer, that was a grey color instead of the standard black, things get even more oddly similar.

Since the Commodore VIC-20 used the same 9-pin DIN connector found on the Atari 2600, joysticks were interchangeable between devices. One of the few hardware “standards” found on many 8-bit computers.

Personally, the Atari CX40 joystick was the first joystick I used on my VIC-20. We owned the Sears Video Arcade (the Sears version of the Atari 2600) and I would move a controller back and forth between devices. Probably like many who owned both devices, I didn’t purchase another joystick.

So before you think that Commodore pulled one over the eyes of Commodore, “Au contraire mon frere”. Atari filed a lawsuit on October 11, 1982 against Commodore. Here’s a lawsuit announcement article from the October 14, 1982 Philadelphia Inquirer:

And here’s a longer article from the November 9, 1982 edition of the New York Times:

Atari Inc. said it had won a temporary injunction against Commodore Business Machines that prevents Commodore from making and selling joystick controllers for video games and home computers that are imitations of the one made by Atari. The ruling affects the joystick made by Commodore for its popular VIC-20 home computer.

Joysticks are the hand-held box used to operate video games.

It’s fun that back in 1982, the New York Times felt they had to explain joysticks.

A preliminary injunction was granted by Judge Richard Owen in the Federal District Court for the Southern District of New York. A Commodore spokesman, reached at the company’s offices in Pennsylvania, said company officials were returning from the annual meeting in New York and thus were not available for comment. The injunction may not pose much threat to VIC-20 sales, however, because that computer can use the Atari joysticks for game playing.

Atari, the leading maker of home video games, filed suit Oct. 11, contending that the Commodore joystick infringed on its patents. Atari said the Commodore joystick looked like the Atari product except for the color, yet had some flaws that would cause it to break prematurely. Atari said it did not want customers to associate the broken joysticks with Atari.

The joystick is notorious for the flaws mentioned and that’s the crux of the matter. Users in the early 1980s could easily assume that the joystick was created by Atari for Commodore given the similar appearance.

Finally, the trade rag Infoworld, covered the story in their November 1982 edition.

Atari wins joystick battle: Atari, Inc., recently won a preliminary injunction against Commodore Business Machines, Inc., in a case involving Commodore’s manufacture and sale of an “imitation” Atari joy-stick controller for its VIC 20 home computer.

Atari had filed a lawsuit October 11, 1982, in which it claimed that Commodore infringed on Atari’s patents covering the joystick that Atari sells for its video-computer system and home-computer products.

“Commodore had tried to copy the Atari controller exactly, changing only the color to white and adding the Commodore name,” stated Michael Sherrard, patent counsel for Atari.

Commodore allegedly missed a few “important design features” that make the Commodore joystick “likely to break prematurely,” according to Sherrard.

A spokesperson for Commodore declined to comment on the case while it is still in litigation. But the Wall Street Journal quotes Irving Gould, Commodore’s chairman as saying, “We sold a very small quantity of the joystick controller and discounted its sale four months ago because it wasn’t profitable.”

Commodore has appealed the ruling, made by U.S. District Court Judge Richard Owen in the Southern District Court of New York. The ruling prohibits Commodore from further manufacture or distribution of the joystick pending further rulings in the “joystick” case.

We will pursue our legal rights against anyone who attempts to ride the coattails of Atari’s success and creativity,” commented Raymond E. Kasser, chairman and chief executive officer of Atari. Atari is also seeking monetary damages, although an amount has yet to be determined.

I was unable to find any indication that money changed hands in this case but I think can assume that occured.

It is rumored that Commodore was ordered to destroy all remaining inventory of this joystick. I’ve not evidence that supports this claim and since you can still find these joysticks on eBay, I have to assume the stock was sold. But boy, are these pricey.

I did find this memo sent out by Richard Blumenthal who was Commodore’s corporate counsel. According to Dave McMurtrie on the Commodore International Historical Society Facebook Group:

Michael Sherrard, one of Atari’s patent lawyers, filed suit against Commodore on October 11, 1982 for patent infringement, claiming that Commodore’s joystick was an exact copy of Atari’s. A judge agreed and Commodore was enjoined from selling the Atari joystick clones…The internal memo is from the personal collection of Michael Tomczyk.

And there’s even a clone of a clone as you can see in this image that looks just like the Commodore clone of the Atari 2600 only sans the Commodore logo and the words, JOY STICK.

The Atari Compendium lists this one as manufacturer unknown. If Commodore did find a manufacturer in Taiwan to recreate the Atari joystick, did that same company decide to sell their recreation? If you have one of these joysticks, please reach out to me.

My Brush with Atari Joystick IP

In a strange twist of fate, I too found myself on the wrong end of Atari’s intellectual property when I tried to use a variation of the Atari 2600 joystick for my original logo. Here’s my original logo:

Instead of researching this after the fact, I should have done my due diligence. If I had, I would have seen that Atari is still protecting their joystick design and IP as shown in this Bloomberg Law article from January 19, 2021.

Interestingly, it seems that my favorite retro recreation, the Hyperkin Trooper, was also a target but a settlement was made. My guess is that Atari gets a cut of each Hyperkin sale since Troopers are still available.

How did I know Atari was protective of their Atari 2600 joystick IP? Check out this email from Spreadshop when I tried to have merch for sale with the original logo:

This continued protection of Atari joystick design led me to modify my logo based on another joystick no longer under protection, the Commodore 1311.

Commodore 1311 Joystick

After the VIC-20 Joystick fiasco, Commodore released their own design, the Commodore 1311. Who designed the 1311 continues to remain a mystery. Again, neither Bil Herd nor the Commodore International Historical Society was able to help me find out who designed this 8-bit controller. I’d love to know because while the functionality wasn’t great, I love the look of this controller.

The new design includes:

smaller base
button in the middle of the upper base so it can be used by both right and left hand users
VIC-20 Computer colors
A __ foot cable
a triangular profile control stick
Commodore branding
directional indicators
Cost was $10

This joystick was also controversial, but not for the same reasons as its predecessor. This one was notorious for being a horrible joystick. I’ve used it and would have to concur, so surely no one would want to clone this design. Right? Wrong!

According to the Atari Compendium A Taiwan variant of the Commodore 1311 joystick found its way to the market but opted for a cool blue button rather than the red one found on the Commodore 1311 Joystick. It was also suggested that this is the same manufacturer Commodore used, but they released their own version.

My New Logo

And this brings me back to my logo. While the Commodore 1311 joystick may be horrible to use and breaks, I can’t help myself. I love the look and created the new retroCombs logo below:

And my viewers like it, they even helped me refine it! Several of them commented on my Discord that this new logo was a better representation of my content since I have a heavy focus on Commodore computers and the MEGA≡65 rather than Atari. So what about my Spreadshop store? Yep, you can find this logo on shirts, cups, and hats. If you like the look of this logo, get your merch here.

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Raddy RF75A Review

2023-07-19T00:00:00+00:00

The Raddy RF75A is a high-quality portable handheld multi-band radio that is perfect for home, travel, and outdoors. The on-device controls and iOS or Android phone app make It is easy to use and it has a variety of features that make it a great choice for anyone looking for a reliable and affordable radio when you want to disconnect from your phone and enjoy all that analog airwaves have to offer.

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Raddy RF75A Review: A Retro Multiband Radio with Modern Features

Video Errata

None as of 2023-07-19.

Links

📻️ Raddy RF75A: https://amzn.to/3DghzF9 (US)	https://amzn.to/44CJBa4 (UK)
💾️ Max Size SD Cards to use with radio: https://amzn.to/3Oi8i5T (US)	https://amzn.to/3pTTCjY (UK)
📻️ Other Raddy radios: https://amzn.to/3K0FITN (US)	https://amzn.to/3Y24GYL (UK)

Synopsis

Key features of the Raddy RF75A include:

AM/FM/SW/VHF/WB
Bluetooth 5.0 Connectivity
Headphone Jack
SD Card to Play and Record Music and Audio
LED Flashlight
LED Strobe Light and Alert
Radio or Sound Alarm
Sleep Timer
Built-in USB-C Battery Charger
Telescoping built-in Antenna
9.6 Foot External Antenna
Carrying Case
Durable Construction
Fun Retro Walkie-Talkie Design
Phone App To Extend Control and Features

The Raddy RF75A is available in cool outdoor and military inspired colors and is priced at around $50. It is a great value for a high-quality and seemingly durable two-way radio. But check Amazon regularly for discounts!

Technical specifications of the Raddy RF75A:

Dimensions: 2.4 x 1.7 x 5.5 inches
Weight: 7 ounces
Frequencies: 462-467 MHz

If you are looking for a reliable and affordable portable handheld radio, the Raddy RF75A is a great option. It is easy to use and has a variety of features that make it a great choice for anyone looking for an on-the-go radio or to simply scan the airwaves for great analog content like it was the 1970s!

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Ten No Hack TheC64 Tips To Upgrade your Retro Computing Experience

2023-06-17T00:00:00+00:00

I scoured the official TheC64 series user’s manual (downloaded and sent to my Kindle Scribe / not the small user’s guide that comes with the unit - another bonus tip!) and found ten “non-hacky” tips you may not know about.

NOTE: I’ll use the name TheC64 to refer to TheC64 Maxi, TheC64 Mini, and TheVIC20 units. TheC64 Mini does not include a keyboard or VIC-20 emulation so some tips do not translate to this smaller device (out of the box).

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links
Ten Things
Conclusion
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: 10 Ways To Unlock Thec64 For Maximum Retro Computing Fun!

Video Errata

None as of 2023-06-17.

Ten Things

Within the headings, I provide the page number in TheC64 User’s Manual so you can explore each tip in more detail.

1: Use Different Controllers (Page 7)

You are not constrained to the joystick that comes with TheC64. While the Maxi joystick is better than the mini thanks to a micro-switch upgrade, the form factor may not be everyone’s cup of tea.

A quick caveat, not all controllers work. Results have been mixed with two modern controllers such as the wired Logitech F310 (doesn’t work) and a wireless Logitech G F710 (works). Gamepad controllers seem to work including one of my favorites, also from RetroGames, TheGamePad. If a Nintendo/Sega style controller makes you happy, it might work! Plug it in and give it a try.

But I bet you didn’t know a controller is not necessary to navigate in carousel mode.

2: Use Keyboard in Menus (Page 16)

I love keyboard shortcuts and was thrilled to learn that we can control TheC64 using the keyboard. Here are a few examples.

O = ← | P = → | N = ↓ | M = ↑

L, Space, or Return selects an option.

⇧ + ← (back arrow, not left cursor) or a quick press of the power button toggles the option menu at the bottom of the screen when a program is running.

There are many more keyboard shortcuts so check out page 16 for more. I do find it odd that the regular cursor keys weren’t use. If you know why, leave a comment below.

3: Boot to Classic (Page 35)

If you have a TheC64 and haven’t booted into C64 or VIC-20 classic mode, you are missing the experience! You can boot into classic mode by following these steps while in carousel mode and using the joystick:

Choose the Device Settings icon (wrench) in the dock.
Select the Computer model > option and choose either the C64 or VIC 20 in NTSC or PAL mode.
Press ≡ on the joystick to return to the previous menu
Select the Boot mode > option.
Select Classic mode.
Press ≡ on the joystick to return to the previous menu.
Hold the power button to reset TheC64.

TheC64 will skip the carousel mode and boot directly to your chosen computer giving you a more authentic 1980s feel.

To switch back to carousel mode from classic mode, press ≡ to pop up a menu of options and then choose ⚙️ Options. From there, you will be able to figure it out.

TIP: Here’s a classic mode only keyboard shortcut. Use ⇧ + ← (back arrow, not left cursor) to toggle the option menu at the bottom of the screen.

My TheVIC20 boots into VIC 20 NTSC mode for a true retro-computing experience where BASIC was front and center. What’s that you ask?

4: Learn BASIC (Page 34)

Here’s what’s so exciting about classic mode; Beginner’s All-Purpose Symbolic Instruction Code or BASIC. For those of my generation, this is the traditional Commodore computer experience. The computer would boot up to the blue screen (or aqua/white on the VIC-20) with a flashing cursor. BASIC was the feature to unlock the secrets to our Commodore computers.

If you want the authentic experience, head over to Archive.org and download the original Commodore 64 or VIC-20 (recommended) user’s guide and work through them chapter by chapter like I did with the Plus/4 and documented in my Plus/4 User’s Manual series.

TIP: Download and send to a Kindle or other e-book reader and take them with you everywhere you go. With the Kindle Scribe you can mark them up and set bookmarks.

To get you started, load classic mode and type the following two line program that will work in C64 or VIC-20 mode.

10 print "retroCombs rocks! ";
20 goto 10

Now type RUN followed by the RETURN key (⏎). Words will fill the screen. Press the RUN/STOP key to stop the program and use the LIST + ⏎ command to see the program. You can now edit line 10 to make it say anything you want. Welcome to BASIC programming and now you can go crazy. Don’t worry, you can’t harm your computer.

5: Save a Computer States (Page 36)

You can save not one, but four states for each program you load and run. Why would you want to do this? There are a couple of reasons:

Save and restore a game at specific levels.
Save and restore a game before a difficult levels.
Save an application with a data file (such as a word-processor) to speed loading the next time you want edit the data.

The save state menu even provides a time code displaying the length of time the computer was operational before saving the state.

6: Use `.tap` and `.crt` Files (Page 51)

Switching to classic mode reveals options to use not only disk images, but cassette (.tap) and cartridge (.crt) images. Loading .tap files is not the slog experience we remember from the 1980s but .crt do load as quickly as they did. The option to use both file types increases the library of titles you can use.

TIP: Cartridge files are not just great for games. Download the Super Snapshot .crt file, load it, and then reset the computer. Super Snapshot is available. But retroCombs, Super Snapshot requires me to press a button to activate it. Hold that thought!

7: Use File Flags and the `.cjm` Files ( Page 58)

There’s a lot to this one and it could be the topic of a video in itself. But in a nutshell, flags and .cjm files provide an options to “tell” TheC64 how to configure the program to run. File flags are at the end of the file names and configure a single file whereas a .cjm is used within a directory to use the same settings for a group of files. Below is a small list of setting you can apply using file flags or .cjm files:

Set computer to PAL or NTSC
Add memory expansion
Set the primary joystick port
Configure a mouse type
Accurate versus accelerated disk mode

8: Use a Joystick for Games that Don’t support one (Page 68)

Expanding on the use of .cjm file, there are C64 games that don’t support Joystick controls, and while they are few and far between, you can use a .cjm file to add this support. The syntax for this file is not intuitive and I’ve placed an example below for a VIC game, in PAL mode, with 35K expansion, and copies keyboard controls to the joystick.

X:vic,pal,fullheight,35k
J:1*:W,S,A,D,I,K,J,L,CT,1,2,3,,EN,4

Check out page 69 to see a full list of key IDs the .cjm file can use.

Back in tip number four, I demonstrated how to create a BASIC program but I didn’t show you how to save it. You can and you do this using virtual disk images. And once you have the virtual disk image, you can transfer it from TheC64 to real hardware or VICE and back again for a nice roundtrip way to write a program and test it on all platforms.

TIP: To save the program in step four, use the command SAVE "RETROCOMBS",8 and to load it use the command LOAD "RETROCOMBS",8.

As you work in BASIC, you may cause the computer to hang and an understanding of reset modes can help you recover.

10: Understand Reset Modes (Page 102)

Similar to a real hardware Commodore 64, there are both hard and soft resets.

Reset Type	Key Combo	Description
Hard	Left ⇧ + TheC64 + Power	Simulates cycling the computers power off and on
Soft	Left ⇧ + Power	Does not simulate a power cycle and maintains memory contents

TIP: Remember our Super Snapshot scenario? TheC64 has you covered with a tap of Right ⇧ + Power to activate the cartridge.

BONUS 1: Sort Games (Page 28)

Press the Joystick A button or press A on the keyboard to sort the carousel titles by title, author, composer, genre, year, and model of computer. Year is a great option if you want to experience the advancement of games over time.

BONUS 2: TheC64 Mini Virtual Keyboard (Page 48)

This tip isn’t great on the Maxi models but can save your bacon on a mini.

To activate the virtual keyboard press the ☰ button in a game and select the ‘Virtual keyboard’ option. An on-screen keyboard appears on the right-side. Through THEC64 Joystick, the Virtual keyboard gives access to all the keys of an original C64 computer.

Conclusion

I hope you learned a tip or two about your TheC64 that brings more value to your purchase. There are many more tips and I hope you will share them in the comments below.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Collaborating to Create a MEGA65 Primer

2023-04-23T00:00:00+00:00

Several months ago, Gürçe Işıkyıldız and a MEGA65 developers reached out to me on Discord to ask if I had an interest in creating a rapid-fire MEGA65 primer. He had an outline in his head but hadn’t yet collected those thoughts into a single document. His goal, create a video that allows those new to the MEGA65, using hardware or emulation, to experience BASIC 65 on the MEGA65. He suggested we cram as much in as possible in 10 minutes. His audience was co-workers and family, but I knew it would appeal to a much larger group.

I had upcoming travel and other video projects on the bench and told Gürçe it might take time before I could get to it. In the meantime, and not in a hurry, Gürçe created a shared Google Slides document to capture his ideas. The content was fabulous with basics all the way to the creation of a simple game, and I immediately understood his intent. When I had time, I added imaging and style to the slides. We decided the Google Slides would not only guide the video content, but become a resource for the viewer. We imagined viewers watching the video on one-screen and viewing the slides on another. Check out our slides below:

Google Slides, we decided, would allow us to share, make changes, and document video errata. As a huge Google Slides user myself (for my thumbnails and video images), I was happy we chose this tool. After a couple of months of collaboration, recording, and DaVinci Resolve editing, we released the video on 2023-04-23.

While Gürçe is the mastermind behind the content, he asked that I be the face of the video; however, I wanted him to appear. I came up with what I hope was a fun solution, but won’t spoil the surprise other than to say; I needed Gürçe to create a MEGA65 sound program that announced his appearance. Here’s that code in immediate mode if you want to experiment with it:

TEMPO 10
PLAY "T2O5SCEGO6C"
PLAY "T2O6SCO5GEC"

Finally, I knew he must appear on the video thumbnail. I sent him a Discord message and asked for a couple of images. His wife was kind enough to line him up on a wall, take pics, and Gürçe sent them to me to remove the background. I lined up against a wall and did the same. It almost looks like we were in the same room!

I am hopeful we can collaborate on more video. I appreciated Gürçe’s expertise programming in BASIC 65 on the MEGA65 and he’s always been kind when I had questions or needed help. I’m not sure what our follow-up video will be (I have ideas), but we would love to hear your feedback. Drop them in the comments below or in the comments for the video (while there, hit that thumbs up!). And now, let’s check out the video and the links from the video below.

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

The Final YouTube Video

Title: Unleash Your Inner Coder: Beginner’s Guide to BASIC65 on the MEGA65

Video Description: The MEGA65 includes an updated version of Commodore BASIC called BASIC 65. If this is your first Commodore computer, you never gave BASIC a chance back in the 1980s, or you’ve just forgotten all you knew, @IshiTheLastYihi and I designed this rapid-fire primer to get you up to speed quickly. You’ll learn the basics of, well, BASIC, and a couple of tips and tricks along the way. If you code along using our Google Slides (https://tinyurl.com/mega65-quick-start) and pause, FFW, and RWD the video, by the end you will have created your first game! All this in 14 mins! Buckle up, break out that MEGA65 or XEMU (https://github.lgb.hu/xemu/) emulator, and get to coding.

Video Errata

All corrections are found in the Google Slides deck on slide #2.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

10 Ways the NABU Surprised a Commodore Computer Enthusiast

2023-04-08T00:00:00+00:00

I’ve temporarily shifted my MEGA65 obsession to the newest retro-computing fad on the YouTubes, the NABU Personal Computer. I’ve shared my unboxing, first use, and a cable build. My experience with the device has been interesting and in this post, I want to share ten things about the NABU that surprises this Commodore computer fan. Let’s dig in.

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned
1. Industrial Design
2. The Keyboard
3. Standard 9 pin DIN joystick connectors
4. The NABU Network is LIVE (KINDA)
5. Original Software
6. Cloud CP/M
7. Remote and Local Software
8. Software and Hardware Developers
- NABU Software
- Hardware
9. NABU Emulator
10. NABU Cost of Ownership
Bonus: The Community
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Title

Video Errata

None as of 2023-03-04.

Links Mentioned

I use affiliate links. Thanks for your support of the blog and the YouTube channel when you use these lS inks.

• Buy a NABU on eBAY • Wimaxit 8” HDMI/VGA/AV Monitor • Hyperkin RetroN 77 • Hyperkin Ranger Controller • Hyperkin Trooper Controller • The NABU RetroNET • NABU Network • NABU MAME Emulator • Monoprice MIDI Cable • DTech USB to RS422 RS485 Serial Port Converter Adapter Cable • Arcade Shopper NABU Cable • Pokit Pro All-in-One Multimeter, Oscilloscope and Logger

Let’s look at ten things about the NABU that surprised this Commodore enthusiast, starting with the NABU’s industrial design.

1. Industrial Design

The NABU form factor and case design is substantial when compared with Commodore computers of the same period. Commodore’s bread bin case looks toy-like next to the rugged metal VCR-sized NABU case. You can tell designers of the NABU created a “set-top-box” computer to look at home in a rack with 1980s video tape recorders and hi-fi audio equipment. And then they dangled a long cable out of the back of the box to connect a keyboard.

2. The Keyboard

At first glance, the 66-key qwerty keyboard, with Alps key switches, look bulky. The lengthy cord hanging off its backside make sense if you want to operate the computer on your TV from your sofa. The NABU’s keyboard layout is odd, even for a 1980s computer, and includes YES, NO, GO, RWD & FFWD Keys. These keys were likely included to make the computing experience more intuitive to new users.

The keyboard key action is a welcome surprise. In a word, the keyboard feels “outstanding.” The Alps keys provide a nice thunk that reminds me of early Apple keyboards. It feels professional and is a keyboard I want to use–a statement rarely said about 1980s home computers, even Commodore computers. Finally, the keyboard includes ports for two joysticks and those ports are my next surprise.

3. Standard 9 pin DIN joystick connectors

I’ll admit, when I heard the NABU was a cable company contraption, I assumed everything would be proprietary; including connectors. DJ Sures uses a NABU joystick (I need to find me one of these) in his videos and I assumed, because of its unique flight stick appearance, that the connector on the other end was proprietary.

To my surprise, the back of the keyboard includes the two DB-9 connectors. The same connectors found on Atari, TI, and Commodore computers. My Hyperkin Trooper and Competition Pro joysticks work perfectly with the NABU. I’ve not tried the Hyperkin Ranger Paddle Controller, but nothing leads me to believe it won’t work except for paddle support in the software. I’ll have to check the NABU network to determine if there are any paddle controller games.

4. The NABU Network is LIVE (KINDA)

The NABU network is critical to the operation of the NABU personal computer. Last year, when boxes of NABUs first appeared, the only reason anyone would want one was for their historic value. Unbox it, turn it on, and the only thing the NABU could do is display a logo followed by an adapter failure message.

I passed on the first round of boxes since there was only a hope that “one-day” the community might reactivate the network. But, and in record time, that happened! By the time the next round of NABU boxes were available, users only needed to connect a USB RS422 adapter to a modern PC, wire up a cable, load some free software, and the NABU network lights up, via Internet connectivity, these previously dormant NABU personal computers.

Once the network is live, the surprises about the NABU continue as you view retro advertising load pages while the original NABU software streams to your device. The NABU software delivery system was much more advanced compared to its contemporaries. No longer did the user have to visit a computer store to purchase software. It was an app store before app stores.

While Commodore had its own computer network Quantum Link, which would in 1989 become America Online (AOL), there’s no way for us to relive the glory days of that online service. And that’s too bad. But, if you want to experience another network contemporary, that’s where the NABU comes in and when you fire up the NABU network, that’s where the other surprises begin.

5. Original Software

In the 1980s, families loaded and ran software from the NABU network. There was a floppy disk controller, but these were rare among normal consumers. It appears NABU provided free software and users could opt to purchase additional titles. I assume when the original network ceased, so did “ownership” of those software titles and imagine families were none too happy at the loss of their software investment.

In 2023, users can experience the NABU’s small list of software titles without cost. You’ll quickly mow through the titles available and find that they are mediocre, even for their time. There are faithful recreations of games and productivity apps such as word-processors and, of course, the requisite BASIC programming language, but they aren’t great. That’s where exploitation of the hardware comes into play. The NABU uses standard hardware found on contemporary computers such as:

ZILOG Z80A, 8-bit, 3.58MHz clock speed processor
64Kb of RAM
16Kb of Video RAM
Texas Instruments TMS 9918A
General Instrument AY-3-8910 programmable sound generator

Because these specifications are like Japanese MSX computers, a 1983 home computer architecture used by several vendors and created by ASCII Corporation, the NABU has additional capabilities and compatibility when you replace the NABU ROM with an MSX ROM. Games are more refined, responsive, and true to the original arcade counterparts. Thanks to Cloud CP/M, you can now switch out ROMs and try many games and software originally not available on the NABU.

6. Cloud CP/M

The NABU did not come with a user operating system (OS). The company sent software through the coaxial cable network. Software was free or fee. In 2023, and with no external storage available (yet), DJ Sures has figured out how to hack Digital Research’s CP/M OS on the NABU. This version of CP/M called, Cloud CP/M adds productivity and geek tools to the NABU. DJ has even hacked in an 80-column scrolling display. It’s a blast to use with various drives (A:, B:, and C:) and USER areas serving as software collections.

Check out drive B: and USER 1 for an assortment of MSX games ported to the NABU (Thanks GWSS for that collection!). Type SUMMARY on drive A: and USER 0 to see a list that’s updated regularly. Type NEWS to check the latest features in Cloud CP/M. Running CP/M in the cloud ensures you always have the latest version. It’s kinda slick!

CP/M was available for Commodore computers in the mid-1980s, and the Commodore 128 had its own version; however, the NABU version is more convenient and, based on what I’ve heard, more full featured. But pulling software from a server is not the only way to run applications on the NABU.

7. Remote and Local Software

Thanks to software by GWSS and DJ Sures, we can download titles from the network via the Internet from different “channels.” But that’s not the only way. You can download .nabu files to run locally using software such as the Internet Adapter Software from NABUNetworks. This will suffice until development continues on new hardware that will emulate local storage for old and new software.

8. Software and Hardware Developers

Not content with the NABU’s original capabilities, software and hardware developers are creating new projects to extend functionality using modern programming techniques and hardware components. Like other popular retro-computing platforms, the NABU eco-system is alive and well with several software and hardware projects.

NABU Software

Here’s a short list of interesting utility and games projects in development:

nabud - Operate your own NABU server.
NabuNetworkEmulator - Emulator for the NABU network adapter.
Game Man Yeah! - Home brew four-player space miner game.
Brick Battle - Home brew two-player Brick-Out clone with multiple balls.
Cloud GUI - Think GEOS for NABU, but not.

We will continue to see new software for the NABU so subscribe to those YouTube channels and follow those blogs.

Hardware

Here’s a short list of interesting hardware projects in development:

F18A - Originally designed for the TI-994/A, this board replaces the TMS9918A video controller to add a hole host of features such as a digital video out, new screen resolutions, and an increased color palette.
nabu.cpm - This project combines software and hardware to run CP/M locally from an SD card.
SD Card Expansion Board - Boot your NABU into BASIC using an SD card.
USB to Serial Adapter - Forget RS422 and install this board to provide a direct USB connection.

I’m keeping my fingers crossed that we will soon have an inexpensive ESP32 board to connect our NABU’s to the network via Wi-Fi. In the meantime, if you don’t have a NABU, you do have options.

9. NABU Emulator

It surprised me to learn that NABU emulation was available through the use of MAME software. Yes, that MAME, the Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator we use to play our favorite retro console titles. And NABU setup is similar. Install the MAME software, feed it a NABU ROM, boot, and away we go!

Download a complete NABU emulator package for Windows and then read the instructions,. I’m sure Mac and Linux versions are coming soon to provide a free way to experience the NABU; however, what about the cost for real hardware?

10. NABU Cost of Ownership

Cost is the most surprising entry on my list. The retro-computing hobby is expensive and when boxes of NABU units surfaced, I expected the owner wanted to make a buck or two on his find. That’s not the case. You can purchase a NABU on eBay for $80 plus shipping. You’ll spend around $100 for the unit and then you’ll need another few bucks to build a cable with the components below:

Or you can purchase a prebuilt Arcade Shopper cable

All in, you won’t spend more than $150! That’s a lot of retro-computing goodness and fun. I’m calling this the best $150 or less you’ll spend on a retro computing system this year. When you compare to a THEC64 or a THEA500 Mini, this purchase is a steal! Grab one now.

Bonus: The Community

There are many NABU owners in the growing community and you can check out NABU serial numbers to see if you know anyone. As followers know, I’m fond of the MEGA65 community. They are a generous bunch of folks with low drama. I’m new to the NABU community and can’t yet vouch for its health. There’s been some drama lately and I’m keeping my fingers crossed that all involve will figure it out. What I can tell you is that within that community, I’ve found helpful folks who have joined my livestream chats and made comments on my videos to help me solve problems. You can check out there comments on my NABU YouTube playlist.

If you want to interact with other NABU users, join the NABU Discord Server or support my channel and blog by becoming a member and then join my NABU channel on my Discord. That community will stay friendly and drama free. You’ll also find friendly folks who want to help you in RetroNET Chat or on the NABU IRC.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Install C64 OS using the VICE Commodore Emulator

2023-02-04T00:00:00+00:00

You have C64 OS and you can’t wait to install and play with this new incredible operating system for the beloved Commodore 64. The only problems is, your C64 is kaput or has yet to arrive from that eBay seller who promised it you days ago. Never fear! You can install C64 OS on VICE for Windows or Mac and I’m going to show you how to get C64 OS up and running as quickly as possible.

I show how to install C64 OS on VICE 3.7 for Mac; however, the steps are almost identical in Windows. I’ve not yet tried this on Linux, but hope to give that a shot later. Let’s get started.

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned
Required Files
Prepare Files
Install VICE
Configure the Pointing Device
ROM Configuration
Configure and Attach Virtual Floppy Drives
Configure and Attach Virtual CMD HD
Configure C64 OS
Reset VICE
Boot C64 OS
Using the Pointing Device
Exit and Load C64 OS
Homework
Conclusion

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Install C64 OS using the VICE Emulator on a Mac or Windows Computer

Video Errata

None as of 2023-02-04.

Links Mentioned

I use affiliate links. Thanks for your support of the blog and the YouTube channel when you use these links.

Required Files

Before you install C64 OS on VICE, you will need to make two required and one optional purchase:

Required: C64 OS - There are two bundles available: Starter for $59 CAD and Standard $64 CAD. I use the Standard bundle and recommend you spend the extra $5 CAD.
Required: CMD HDD Boot ROM 2.80 Binary Image - RETRO Innovations for $8.00. This is the ROM VICE required to read and write a virtual CMD HD device.
Optional: JiffyDOS 64 KERNAL ROM Overlay Image - RETRO Innovations for $8.00. This is not required, but will significantly speed access to the CMD HDD virtual device.

Prepare Files

This next step is optional and a matter of choice; however, I recommend you copy the contents of the C64 OS card to a cloud drive and synced to a local drive your Mac. This provides three advantages:

You have a backup.
Once configured, you can port your C64 OS environment to another Mac or PC.
With Google Drive, you have versioning so you can back up to a previous version of your C64 OS install.

Below are the steps I used to sync with Google Drive:

Created a new folder within my Mac’s Google Drive folder (that is synced using Insync tool) called C64 OS ver 1 and then copied the contents of the C64 OS SD card into that folder, as shown in the image below:
Copy the required CMD HDD ROM ( doscmdh_v280.bin) and the optional JiffyDOS ROMs (jiffydos_c64.bin and jiffydos_c1541.bin) into the vice support folder. There are other files in that folder we will use later.

Install VICE

The next step is optional if you already have a VICE install; however, in December 2022 the developers released version 3.7 and I recommend the upgrade. The previous version, 3.6.1, had several Mac GUI issues.

Download VICE - the Versatile Commodore Emulator
VICE for Mac doesn’t have a native installer. Unpack the archive to get a folder full of emulators and tools.
Drop the folder into the Applications folder.

NOTE: I’m sure others will tell me, “NO!!!” since the folder includes command-line tools. I deal with those in another way and I will not cover in this blog post.
Open ~/Applications/VICE 3-7-1/x64sc.app to ensure the application works properly.

Configure the Pointing Device

C64 OS requires the use of a joystick or 1351 mouse. You can’t connect original 9 pin DIN devices directly to your Mac, but you can configure VICE to use your trackpad or connected BT or USB mouse as a Commodore 1351 Mouse. Let’s set that up using the steps below:

From the pull-down menu, select Preferences | Settings | Input devices | Control port.
Use the Control Port #1 drop-down selector to choose Mouse (1351).
While on this page, ✓ the Save settings on exit option to ensure VICE continually saves your preferences. Your dialog box should look similar to the one below:
Select the Close button.

ROM Configuration

Remember those JiffyDOS and CMD HDD ROMs we downloaded and you placed in the vice support directory? It’s time to use the ROMs in the steps below:

Select Preferences | Settings | Machine.
Ensure Machine ROMs is highlighted.
Click the Browse… button to the right of the Kernal option.
Navigate to the vice support folder you created earlier on the Mac and select the jiffydos_c64.bin file as shown below:
Click the Open button.
Click the Drive ROMs option at the top of the page.
Click the Browse… button to the right of the 1541 option.
Navigate to the vice support folder and select the jiffydos_c1541.bin file as shown below:
Click the Open button.
Click the Browse… button to the right of the CMD HD option.
Navigate to the vice support folder and select the doscmdhd_v280.bin file as shown above.
Click the Open button.
Leave the Settings dialog box open.

Configure and Attach Virtual Floppy Drives

Configure the virtual drive 8 to use JiffyDOS and access a .d64 disk image within C64 OS.

From the open Settings dialog box, select Peripheral devices | Drive.
Optional - ✓ the Drive sound emulation option.
Optional - Adjust the Drive volume: to 50%.
Ensure Drive 8 tab is highlighted.
Select CBM 1541-II in the Drive model pull-down menu.
✓ the True drive emulation option.
The dialog box should look like the one below:
Click Close to close the Settings dialog box.

NOTE: To attach a virtual disk image to C64 OS, select File | Attach disk image | Drive #8 and when the file selection dialog box appears, navigate and select the .D64 disk image. If you don’t have a virtual disk image, you can create one using the File | Create and attach an empty disk image … option.

Configure and Attach Virtual CMD HD

With drive #8 configured to support virtual floppy disks, it is now time to configure drive #9 to emulate a CMD HD.

Select Settings | Peripheral devices | Drive and highlight Drive 9.
Select CMD HD in the Drive model pull-down menu.
Verify the CMD-HD fixed size is 8G.
The dialog box should look like the one below:

Let’s attach the CMD HD to drive #9.

Close the Settings dialog box.
Select File | Attach disk image | Drive #9 from the pull-down menu.
Select the c64os v1.0.dhd found in the vice support folder. When you select the file, VICE will present a preview like the one found below.
Select the Attach / Load button.

Your virtual C64 OS CMD HD is attached. The next step is to configure C64 OS.

Configure C64 OS

We will use a Commodore 64 program, the C64 OS configure tool, to prepare the OS to boot. Type the commands below in Commodore 64 immediate mode:

@#9
@CD//OS/SETTINGS
↑CONFIGURE 

HINT: The ↑ is not the up arrow on the Mac keyboard. Use ⇧ + 6 to enter this character.

The Configure Tool will load as shown below:

I won’t cover each option in the configure tool. The goal of this blog post is to get you up and running as quickly as possible using VICE. The list below provides the option (in bold) I used.

Display time in the menu bar? = Y
Use 12 hour time? = N
Blink the seconds indictor? = Y
Which mouse pointer? = 1
Mouse speed? = 20
Double-click delay? = 480 ms
Pointer inner color? = black
Pointer outer color? = l.grey
Mouse hand right or left? = R
Show CPU busy indicator? = Y
Toggle menu bar: CTRL+space Accept? = Y
Toggle status bar: CTRL+COMMODORE+space Accept = Y
Toggle GFX mode: COMMODORE+← Accept = Y
Take screenshot: CTRL+COMMODORE+p Accept = Y
Which status bar mode at boot-up? = 1
How many fast app switching slots? = 0KB
Double click free memory to open: = 1
Display memory values in: = 1
Realtime clock driver? = 4
Pointer input driver? = 1
Configure default places? = Y

Once you make the choices, a Configuration Complete prompt will appear along with the READY prompt. You can return to the Configure Tool to make changes when you become more familiar with C64 OS.

Reset VICE

I’ve found after using the configuration tool that a VICE hard reset makes things smoother. Follow this step:

Select File | Reset | Hard Reset

VICE will reset and remove your attached drives. This is not an issue! We will reconnect our CMD HD.

Boot C64 OS

The easiest way to boot C64 OS is to attach the .dhd disk image and use the Autostart feature following the instructions below:

Select File | Attach disk image | Drive #9 from the pull-down menu.
Select the c64os v1.0.dhd in the vice support folder.
Select Autostart.

VICE will attach the drive and load the first program on the drive, C64 OS.

I won’t cover each option in the C64 OS Setup Tool. The selections I use are below.

Yes, I have read and agree. = Y
Fresh installation. = C
C64 OS Device # = 9
C64 OS Partition # = 1
System Directory? = os
Is that correct? [y/n] = y
Options: = b

C64 OS startup will begin as shown in the image below:

After the C64 OS setup screen appears, C64 OS is ready to use, as shown in the image below:

Using the Pointing Device

It may frustrate you, at this point, to use the mouse or trackpad. Never fear, use the ⌘ + M to “capture” the mouse movements in the C64 OS environment. Use the same keyboard combination to return the pointing device back to Mac OS.

Exit and Load C64 OS

I’m going to the use of C64 OS in this blog post. This is a software best left to the user. Dig in, click here, click there, and have a great time exploring. When you are done:

Select Options | Exit to BASIC in the C64 OS pull-down menu.
Select File | Exit emulator from the VICE pull-down menu.

To load C64 OS for future 8-bit mousing action, use the steps below:

Load VICE
Select File | Attach disk image | Drive #9 from the pull-down menu.
Select the c64os v1.0.dhd in the vice support folder.
Select Autostart.

The dialog box will close. VICE will mount the C64 OS virtual image and auto-load the OS. If you want to speed up the loading process, you can use the VICE warp mode by clicking the warp indicator as shown in the image below; however, remember to turn off warp mode afterward or you will have issues using the UI.

Because we turned on the auto-save option, you will not need to go back and change any of the settings.

Homework

Want to dig in and have more fun? Try to determine how to do these things on your own:

Use a virtual RAM expansion unit (REU).
Use Wi-Fi to connect to a BBS.
Display the fun image C64 OS includes.
Play a game of chess.
Change the C64 OS theme.

Conclusion

That concludes my quick installation of C64 OS in VICE. If you want to see more C64 OS content or have a question? Drop a comment below. I’d also love to read your tips and tricks to get the most out of C64 OS. That’s it for now…

… 🕹️ retroCombs OUT!

Amazon Kindle Scribe for Retro Computing

2023-01-07T00:00:00+00:00

I’ve used a Kindle since the release of the first version in 2007. I enjoyed that early device and followed it with several other models over the years. My use waned because of the small screen of current models. It might be my older eyes, but I appreciate the larger iPad screens; however, iPad screens are difficult on the eyes and disturb the lovely account if I want to read in bed.

When Amazon announced the $350 Kindle Scribe, I was excited. Not only would this new Kindle have a much larger screen for reading and reviewing PDF files, but now, with a pen, I can annotate e-Books and PDF files. I can even journal and create new content. I hypothesized this device would be a boon, not only for standard reading, but for my retro computing hobby. Let’s if my hypothesis is correct.

SEND THIS ARTICLE TO YOUR KINDLE

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
A Kindle for Retro Computing
Hardware
Document Formats
Pen (Premium)
Writing Toolbar
Library
Search
Kindle User Interface (UI)
Collections
Whispersync
Reading Options
- E-Books
- PDFs
- Notebooks
Sharing
Settings
Online Tools
USB-C Connect to Computer
Conclusion
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: _Amazon Kindle Scribe Guide | A Perfect Retro Computing Companion _

Video Errata

None as of 2023-01-07.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

I use affiliate links. Thanks for your support of the blog and the YouTube channel when you use these links.

A Kindle for Retro Computing

Here’s the thing; a standard small screen $100 Kindle Paperwhite can be a great device for the retro computing hobby because you can read and collect:

modern retro computing e-books.
out of print retro computing books.
instruction sheets and manuals for both modern and retro devices.
magazines from the 1970s and 1980s that cover the early 8-bit computing scene.

But the $350 Kindle Scribe’s experience is better because it adds annotation with a Wacom pen (a retro brand itself) on a 10.2 inch e-ink screen. Let’s find out more about this device’s hardware before I dig into how to use the Kindle Scribe.

Hardware

The Kindle Scribe’s hardware specifications include:

Size - 7.7 x 9.0 x .22 inches
Weight - 15.3 oz
Screen - 10.2 inch 300 PPI glare free 32 LCD backlit Paperwhite e-ink display
Memory - 32GB (16 and 64 GB available)
Power - Battery provides months of reading and weeks of writing use with power coming from the USB-C port
Connectivity - Wi-Fi (Download content and access Amazon Store), Bluetooth (Headsets), & USB-C (Use to charge and access the internal storage)
Power button - Short press to suspend Kindle and display a title screen or long press to Restart or Turn the Screen Off.
Case - I didn’t purchase the $60 Amazon brand folio cover. I choose the $32 Moko Kindle Scribe Case. The case includes stands for both vertical and horizontal viewing and the most important feature, magnetic standby for the device when I close the cover.
Pen - Premium pen is 6.4 inches long, weighs .49 oz, and includes replacement tips

With the hardware covered, let’s find out what document formats the Kindle supports.

Document Formats

The Kindle Scribe supports the following formats:

Kindle books
PDF (with adjustable layout)
Microsoft Word Documents
TXT, RTF, and HTML text documents
PNG, GIF, JPEG and BMP image files
EPUB documents imported through Send to Kindle

Image files and documents with color images will display as black and white or gray scale. Moving documents to the Kindle doesn’t convert them. Useful when you export the document back to another device. Let’s talk more about the pen.

Pen (Premium)

You use the pen to annotate e-books, PDFs, and notebooks. You access tools from the Writing Toolbar.

I purchased a premium metal pen that includes a customizable side button and an “eraser.” I find the pen comfortable and natural to use. The non-glare screen provides enough resistance on the pen tip to cause a slight drag, making the experience more pencil like.

And the pen’s superpower…no battery! Unlike an iPad or other tablet, the Wacom pen technology does not require a power source. It is always ready. No cables, no charging, no muss! Fabulous. Let’s look at how to use the pen annotation tools.

You access the annotation tools via the Writing Toolbar. The options include:

Pen - Choose to annotate a PDF/e-Book or write in a notebook. Tap the tool again to select fine, thin, medium, thick, or heavy strokes.
Highlight - Choose to highlight an area of a page. Tap the tool again to select fine, thin, medium, thick, or heavy highlights.
Erase - Choose to erase an annotation or highlight. Tap the tool again to select fine, thin, medium, thick, or heavy erasures. This tool includes options to erase a selection (draw around items to erase) and erase an entire page.
Finger - Choose to use the pen in finger mode. Confusing and I recommend against using this feature.
Undo - Undo the last action.
Redo - Redo the last action.
⋮ - Move the palette to the left or right side of the screen.

You cannot manually position the toolbar, but the default position works well. The palm rejection, because of the use of the Wacom technology, is impressive. Unlike note-taking apps on the iPad, I never have rogue marks on my pages. Now that we know how to use the pen and annotation tools, let’s learn more about adding content to your e-Library.

Library

The most important part of your Kindle is the library. You add to your Kindle library by purchasing e-books from Amazon on the web or from the Kindle Scribe using the Kindle Store. I enjoy browsing on the Kindle and if you are unsure about a title, you can download a sample.

A Kindle Unlimited subscription adds to your library. I added the four free months of Kindle Unlimited option in my order to sample the collection of retro computing books available. If I keep this service, it will cost me $10/month. The Lovely Accountant, added as the other adult in my family plan, enjoys Kindle Unlimited to read free books using the Kindle app on her iPad mini. I might need to get her a Kindle in the future.

You can send documents to a Kindle Scribe using one of the options below.

Copy the document using the USB-C connection.
Use the Send to the Kindle app for your Mac.
Use the Send to the Kindle app for your phone.
Use your send to Kindle email address and mail a document. Your email provider may limit the size file you can send. You can customize your send to Kindle email address using the instructions found on the Send To Kindle Email page.
Use the Chrome extension to send a web page to the Kindle Scribe. This option works great for blog posts and even removes the advertisements. Try it on this page and keep these tips and tricks on your own Kindle Scribe.
Use the Send to Kindle web page. This option has a 200Mb limit but should take care of 99% of your files. This page also includes a list of the recent files you’ve sent to the Kindle Scribe no matter which option you used above.

As your library grows, you will want a way to locate content. The Kindle Scribe includes a limited search feature.

Search

The Kindle includes a search bar at the top of each main screen to help you find specific books or documents. It works but lacks any advanced boolean search functions. To make a search, tap the search bar and the on-screen keyboard appears. This is a basic keyboard that inputs alpha-numeric characters. There’s no SWIPE to type or emojis, but it includes auto-complete and Shift/Caps lock. The keyboard is just one part of the user interface (UI). Let’s look at the main UI.

Kindle User Interface (UI)

The Kindle UI runs on top of a Linux OS and includes four pages:

Home - Provides access to your recent items, Kindle Unlimited recommendations, similar to recommendations, and a host of other recommendation areas based on genres and authors.
Library - Limits the view based on the books and documents in your cloud and local library. Filters narrow the list to display downloaded, unread, read, books, samples, documents, newsstand, Audible, comics, and Kindle Unlimited. You can sort your content by recent, title, ascending, or descending. View options include grid, list, or collections. Mix and match all filters, sort, and display options to create your own custom view of your library.
Notebooks - Displays your notebooks. You can filter the list to show downloads. Sort using recent, title, type, date created, date modified, ascending, and descending. View options include grid and list. Mix and match these options to create a custom view of your notebooks. I’ll cover notebooks in more detail later.
More - This final page provides access to your reading lists created in Goodreads, access to Goodreads, a barely functional web browser, settings (more later), and legal notices for nights of insomnia.

All four pages provide buttons in the upper-right corner to create a new notebook or visit the Kindle Store. Having your library scattered about the UI can get confusing. This is where collections come in handy.

Collections

Collections allow you to group your content by kind, type, subject or all the above. I’ve created a few retro collections for the MEGA65 and Commodore PET. When I collect more library content, I will create more collections. I’ll share more about the creation and management of collections later.

Whispersync

The best kept feature of the Amazon Kindle echo-system is called Whispersync. This synchronization feature ensures you have not only the same books and documents available between devices such as your Kindles, PC, tablet, or phone, but that your reading locations and annotations are all synchronized! If I create a notebook on my Amazon Kindle Scribe, I can review it on my Pixel 6 Pro phone using the Kindle app or on my Mac using the Kindle app for Mac. As of now, I can’t edit the notebooks, but I’m not sure I would want to without a pen. Future firmware and app updates may allow this feature.

Reading Options

Several document options are available depending on the type of document being read. Here’s a summary of each type of document.

E-Books

Tapping the top of the page reveals a menu at the top of the page with the following options:

Layout - Options to manage the reading themes, change the font family and size, change the layout orientation, or turn on options to display the reading progress, show a clock, mention of other books, or information about the book the first time you open the book.
About This Book - Displays info about the book when you open it for the first time. Information includes file name and size.
Go To - This option will allow you to jump around the document quickly. The Go to Page or Location option offers the ability to jump to a specific page or location.
Notes - View all the notes and highlights you made in an e-book.
Bookmark - Bookmarks a specific page. An e-book can have multiple bookmarks that you access by tapping the bookmark on a bookmarked paged or using the Bookmark option. Delete a bookmark using the ⨂ option to the right of the bookmark’s name.
Share - More on this option later.
Search - Find specific text in an e-Book or in your notes and highlights.
⋮ - Reveals options to Show/Hide the Writing Toolbar, toggles the Vocabulary Builder to review words you’ve looked up in the Kindle dictionary while reading, access Settings (more later), and Sync to Furthest Page Read when reading the same document on another device.

An area appears at the bottom of the screen to allow you to navigate through pages of the book quickly with a single page scrubber or via a thumbnail of pages scrubber. All features are available when viewing e-books, but not for PDFs.

PDFs

Tapping the top of the page reveals the same options for PDF found in e-Books with these caveats:

Layout - Does not include any view options such as font or layout since those are predefined by the PDF file.
About This Book - displays info about the book when opened for the first time, such as the filename and size.
The thumbnail scrubber option at the bottom of the page is not available, but the single page scrubber is.

The other options are the same as e-Books when a PDF file is in an OCR format with proper formatting elements such as headers. Time to talk about notebooks on the Kindle Scribe.

Notebooks

Notebooks is the app on the Kindle Scribe that is used to create pages of e-ink notes. To create a note, follow these steps.

Tap the Notebooks icon on the upper-right of the screen and to the left of the Kindle Store icon. The Create notebook dialog box will appear. This option to create a notebook is handy because this icon is available on all four Kindle UI pages.
Another way to create a notebook is to tap the Notebooks option at the bottom of the main UI. The Notebooks page will display the current folders and notebooks on the Kindle. You can use the step #1 option to create a notebook or you can press the + icon in the upper-right corner to reveal two options; Create notebook or Create folder. Selecting the Create notebook option displays the Create notebook dialog box mentioned in step #1. Selecting the Create folder displays a Create folder dialog box. Provide a name of the folder and tap the Create button. A folder will display on the Notebooks page. Tap the notebook to enter the folder, view, or create a notebook or multiple notebooks within that folder.
Using the Create notebook option will display the Create notebook dialog box. Give the notebook a name and then choose from one of 18 different templates from a lined page to a blank page to a storyboard. The Kindle Scribe includes the most useful templates and I can’t think of others they should include.
Once you create a notebook, the Kindle will display it automatically. Use the pen to capture your notes.

Once you create a notebook, you have additional options when you tap the ⋮ button under the notebook.

Open - Opens the notebook on the Kindle Scribe.
Rename - Rename the notebook.
Move - Move the notebook to another folder.
Remove the download - Remove the notebook from the Kindle Scribe but maintain in the cloud.
Permanently delete - Delete both the local and cloud copy of the notebook. There is no undo!
Share - More on sharing in the next section.

Create as many notebooks as you like. With free cloud storage and the ability to move notebooks off and back on the device, you are not likely to run out of space for your retro computing notes.

There are several ways to share information from the Kindle to other device or services. Here’s the breakdown by type of document:

e-Book - Use the Share option to send a highlighted quote to Goodreads. This might seem like a limitation, but you can add a handwritten or text note using the Note tool and afterward send a PDF to your account email address, or up to 5 individual email accounts using the Share via email page. This option is available when you view your notes in the All Notes page for the e-Book you are reading.

HINT: As of firmware 5.16.1, there is no screen capture on the Kindle Scribe, unlike other Kindle models that have this function by long-tapping two opposing corners of the screen at the same time.
PDF File - Use the Share option to send the entire PDF, complete with notes and annotations, to your account email address or up to 5 individual email accounts using the Share via email page.

These are not great options, but with a few more steps, you can get almost any content out of the Kindle to another device or service, such as Google Drive or Twitter. If you are interested in these steps, drop a comment below and let me know.

I’ve shared a lot of information about how to read and write, but you customize your Kindle Scribe using the settings.

Settings

The Kindle Scribe comes with a Settings page, complete with options to customize your experience. Settings include:

Your Account - Give your Kindle Scribe a unique name. Add your own personal information in case you lose the Kindle. Manage your Goodreads account. Deregister the device to recycle or give to someone else. View your Send-to-Kindle Email address.
Household & Family Library - Manage your adult household sharing of purchased content.
Wi-Fi and Bluetooth - Manage Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connections (headsets for audio). You cannot currently connect to the file system via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi.
Device Options - Toggle the display cover of the current document/book being read. View the device information. Manage display settings such as a standard or large UI, the screen warmth schedule to reduce blue light in the evening hours, and toggle nightlight to decrease the screen brightness over time and allow your eyes to adjust. Set a device pass code. Restart the Kindle. Reset the Kindle to its original settings. View advanced settings such as time, home and library view options. Update the Kindle firmware. Toggle Whispersync. Turn on power saver to conserve battery. Toggle sharing of privacy information and manage device storage.
Pen - If you have a premium pen, you can change the default action of the pen shortcut button to either highlight, erase, or add a sticky note.
Book & Notebook Options - Toggle page refresh with every page turn and the vocabulary builder.
Language & Dictionaries - Set the language for your Kindle. Add a different language keyboard. Select a default language dictionary.
Accessibility - Toggle the VoiceView screen reader. Change the display size. Invert Black and White.
Parental Controls - Set restrictions for the Kindle’s web browser, the Kindle Store, the Cloud for Whispersync, and Goodreads. These options will require the use of a PIN on the Kindle Scribe.
Help & User Guides - Hidden in this area is a quick start guide, a full user’s guide, an interactive tutorial, and contact us technical support page.
⋮ - Update, Restart, Reset, or display Device Info

You can find additional settings by swiping down from the top of the Kindle to reveal an Android like settings shade. Shade options include:

Airplane mode - Toggle Airplane mode.
Bluetooth - Toggle Bluetooth.
Dark Mode - Toggle Dark Mode. This mode reverses the screen with the background black and the text white. Great, when you don’t want to disturb the person beside you or you find this mode easier on the eyes.
Sync - Force Whispersync to push books, documents, and reading locations.
All Settings - Display the Settings Page.
Auto Brightness - Allow the Kindle to set the screen brightness based on the ambient light available.
Brightness - Change the brightness level of the screen.
Warmth - Change the warmth of the screen to reduce the amount of blue light.

That’s the complete collection of settings, but other tools are available online. Let’s check those out.

Online Tools

While the Kindle Scribe itself provides tools to manage the library, collections, and notebooks, there are several online tools that will make your Kindle Scribe experience even better. This section begins by opening your browser to the Kindle’s Digital Content page. On this page are the following areas.

Books - View, deliver, return, or remove books from a device. A more selection includes advance options such as clear furthest page read, read online, or gift.
Newspapers - Manage newspaper subscriptions.
Magazines - Manage magazine subscriptions.
Blogs - Amazon once tried to help bloggers monetize content. This legacy feature is no longer available for new content.
Audio Books - Manage your Audible books. You can play and even sync Audible books on the Kindle Scribe. Not a feature I use regularly and I will not cover it here.
Apps - Manage your App purchases. Not applicable to the Kindle Scribe.
Video - Manage your video purchases. Not applicable to the Kindle Scribe.
Docs - Manage your personal documents and collections.
Dictionaries & User Guides - Install additional language dictionaries to your Kindle Scribe. While the title includes User Guides, I could not locate any in this section.
Kindle Unlimited - Manage Kindle Unlimited titles.
Music - Displays the Amazon Music page. Not applicable to the Kindle Scribe.
Collections - Select a collection to display.

USB-C Connect to Computer

The Kindle Scribe includes a USB-C cable that does more than charge the device. Options available when you connect the Kindle Scribe to a computer include:

Add Fonts - Drop OTF or TTF font files in the fonts folder to install custom reading fonts. The Readme.txt file in the folder provides additional information.
Manage Files - Delete, organize, and add files to the Kindle.

PRO TIP: On a Mac, type ⇧ + ⌘ + . to reveal the hidden files/folder on the Kindle Scribe. Use this option at your own risk.
Upload Large Files - Overcome the size limits for Send to Kindle app and e-mail transfer. When you copy a PDF via USB-C, you cannot annotate or use the page/thumbnail scrubber.
Charge - Top off the Kindle’s battery. To charge the Kindle without accessing the internal storage, eject the KINDLE volume from the computer.

Conclusion

Was my hypothesis correct? Is the Kindle Scribe an outstanding tool for retro computing? Yes! And here’s why.

The 300 PPI e-ink display, although black and white, is fabulous. Documents are crisp, clean, and clear and you can read documents in any lighting situation. I prefer to read on this display over a phone or tablet.
I love brainstorming on the Kindle Scribe. The Kindle Scribe includes a storyboard template. I storyboard ideas and add pages as needed. Other useful templates include a to do list and grid paper. If I had a particular content creation schedule, the calendar and planner templates might be useful.
I’ve been reading old issues of RUN and Compute! magazines downloaded from Archive.org. The large screen makes the pages almost full size. Since I download these as PDFs, I can annotate and bookmark pages.
Many modern retro computing books are available as e-books. They are a blast to read on the Kindle Scribe with its large screen and ability to scribble notes. Books I’ve found include A Hobbyist’s Guide to THEC64 Mini, 40 Best Machine Code Routines for the Commodore 64, and Vintage Commodore 128 Personal Computer Handbook: 2019 Survival Edition.
Kindle Unlimited includes several good retro computing books such as Retro Game Dev: C64 Edition and Beginner’s Step-by-step THEC64 Coding Course. Here’s a page full of titles.
I scan PDF files of instructions for modern devices that upgrade my retro computing experience.
I take notes during livestreams or video recordings using the Kindle Scribe and archive those notes for later.
There’s an amazing collection of out-of-print PDF books available for retro computers. You can download, add to a collection, and enjoy quick access to the reference material. I recently download Compute!’s First Book of VIC-20 Games and Compute!’s First Book of PET/CBM.
I love to program on my MEGA65 using BASIC65. The BASIC65 Reference Guide is available, searchable, and I can annotate on the pages or in the margins.

The Kindle Scribe experience has a few quirks in this first release that include:

I can’t write in lower corners.
The device occasionally locks up. It’s rare, but requires a reboot by holding the power button for ten seconds.
As of the current firmware version, I can not markup image files (which makes sense given the format) but I can add a note, but here’s where the file format logic breaks down. When you share the images with a note, it’s a PDF file which I can annotate. I’m hopeful Amazon will correct this oversight in a later firmware update. It would be great to have the option to take a retro computing image, annotate using the pen, and send it to myself or others.
I’d like a few edit options using Kindle apps on other devices for notebooks, but I do like that I can access notebooks anytime on almost any device.
You can’t access Kindle notebooks on Kindle Reader on the Web. That’s a miss that I hope Amazon corrects soon.
Kindle once included support to Tweet from the device. I wish Amazon would bring more social networks to the device other than Goodreads to share content with followers.
There’s no wireless access via Wi-Fi or Bluetooth to access the Kindle’s filesystem. A hard USB-C cable option makes this inconvenient.
The $350 price might be a show stopper. Amazon regularly discounts Kindle devices during events such as Amazon Prime Day and Black Friday. I suspect the device will receive a discount during the next Amazon Prime Day in 2023.

But these quirks do not diminish my enjoyment and usefulness of this device and I’m guessing many fixes will come, along with promised new features, in future firmware updates. What free updates we can look forward to? As of now we know Amazon plans to include these features:

More writing tools, including additional brush types
Copy/paste functionality
Options to organize notebooks
Performance upgrades

I’ll keep a lookout for new additions. Follow me on Twitter or keep watching this blog and my YouTube channel to learn more and watch me use the Kindle Scribe with all my retro computing content.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Upgrading my 1977 Commodore PET 2001-8

2022-12-03T00:00:00+00:00

Followers know during Vintage Computer Festival Midwest 2022, I got a new to me Commodore PET. I will not rehash that memory, but if you want to relive it, check out my My Vintage Computer Festival Midwest 2022 Experience and Commodore PET Purchase post. In this post, I want to explore the question, should I (or you) upgrade a stock Commodore PET? Purist may answer, “No way, retroCombs” while modern enthusiasts might disagree. I intent to find out if the cost and additions are a good ROI.

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned
History of my Commodore PET
What’s in a Name?
My Commodore PET Specifications
Industrial Design
First step, clean up!
What upgrades did I make?
Are the upgrades valuable?
Do I recommend upgrades?
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: I upgrade my Commodore PET 2001-8 using modern devices? But should you?

Video Errata

2022-12-03: Chuck Hutchins dropped a comment let me know I made a mistake on the model number. I reference the 2001-8-N. While N does denote a black and green display, that nomenclature is used for a PET 2001 with a full-size keyboard. I misread the Wikipedia entry.

Links Mentioned

I use affiliate links. Thanks for your support of the blog and the YouTube channel when you use these links.

History of my Commodore PET

As I shared in an earlier video and blog post, I purchased my Commodore PET from Scott Campbell over at Bonus Life Computers while attending VCFMW 2022. Here’s my original Tweet.

Using a couple of sources of information, here’s what I know about the history of this Commodore PET 2001:

Property tags on the back of the computer tell me the PET went into service at the University of Nevada Las Vegas. It’s appropriate that this Commodore PET is back in the hands of an educator.
Chuck Hutchins’ PET database tells me the PET ended up at a Goodwill in Southern Nevada and he archived the images:
Scott, over at Bonus Life Computers, verified the Goodwill assumption:

Yep. It came from Goodwill in I believe Arizona. We had to swap the power supply with a unit from another 2001, rebuild the keyboard and I think there was one bad RAM chip.

I’d wager there’s an owner in between the University of Las Vegas and Goodwill. I’ll conjecture that the University sold the PET at a public auction or a lucky computer science Professor took it home. If you are watching this and have an idea, please leave a comment below.

The Commodore PET was part of Byte Magazine’s “1977 trinity of computers” that included the Apple II and Radio Shack TRS-80. It was the first mass-market Commodore computer and saw moderate success. There were several models released before the PET line ended in 1982 after selling over two-hundred thousand units.

^{By Tim Colegrove - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=79216985</sup>}

I was twelve when Commodore released the PET. By 1982, I had saved enough money mowing lawns to purchase my first computer, the Commodore VIC-20. I would classify the Commodore PET as a generation ahead of me and it would have been a financial burden to my family at an original cost of $795.

^{By Evan-Amos - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=38582541</sup>}

What’s in a Name?

The full nomenclature for my computer is the:

Commodore Business Machines (CBM) Personal Electronic Transactor (PET) Model 2001-N

The choice to use both PET and 2001 to describe the computer is interesting. Wikipedia states that PET is a backronym (an acronym looking for a definition) to capitalize on the pet rock craze of the 1970s.

A Campus Curiosity page on the PET shares the reason for the number 2001:

…it appears that the designer, Chuck Peddle, was inspired by the sentient AI machine HAL 9000, from Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey. Peddle paid homage through the use of a three letter name combined with the number “2001” and PET’s Microgramma logo, this being the font of HAL’s interface.

That’s an interesting amalgam of pop culture references. I’m not sure I would have ever combined a pet rock and the HAL 9000 together as a marketing strategy.

~~The “N” that follows the 2001 reference indicates this Commodore PET includes a black and green monitor.~~ Finally, the “8” means my PET has 8 KB of memory. 4 KB more than the base model. Let’s dig deeper into my PET’s specifications.

My Commodore PET Specifications

Below are specifications for my Commodore PET:

Commodore PET Model 2001–8
Built in the United States
Likely sold in 1978
Serial Number: 0040424
PCB Assembly Number: 320137
1 MHz MOS 6502 processor
ROM version 1
115V/60Hz
9-inch display
Datasette (cassette recorder)
69-key chiclet keyboard

Industrial Design

Commodore packaged the electronics in a hefty beige case with an integrated 9-inch monochrome display, cassette recorder (called a Datasette), and a chiclet keyboard. The case includes port cut-outs on the back. The Oldest Commodore PET Brochuresays the PET comes in at 16 1/2” wide; 18 1/2″ deep; 14″ high, and weighs a hefty 44 pounds.

Display

The 9-inch 60 Hz display includes a 40 columns by 25 rows, or 1000 characters, black and green screen that supports upper/lower case and PETSCII characters. Warm up time is fast. It turns on seconds after throwing the massive power switch. The screen is steady and easy on the eyes for a CRT screen.

Datasette

The PET supports up to two Datasette units. The PET 2001-8 includes a built-in cassette recorder with an additional Datasette port. Later models dropped the internal Datasette to accommodate a full-size keyboard. Users save programs to and load program from a cassette tape inserted in into the Datasette. Load times varied based on the size of the program. The command to save a program was SAVE and the command to load a program was “LOAD”. After each command, the PET prompts the user to hit specific Datasette buttons (Play or Play and Record). The PET includes fast-forward and rewind buttons; however, without a counter, locating programs on the cassette tape is a challenge. The tape unit includes a combined Stop and Eject button.

Keyboard

The chiclet keyboard is a love/hate relationship. With a history of creating calculators, Commodore’s use of this style of keyboard is not a huge surprise; however, the keyboard pales compared to the other two computers in the 1977 Trinity. To make up for the lack of a full-size keyboard, Commodore made interesting and peculiar design decisions:

There are no keys in the top row.
The top row includes a selection of special characters.
The keys are in a rectangular, not offset, array similar to those found on a calculator.
Each key includes a PETSCII character to create graphics.
Alpha-numeric keys are tan, character supplement keys RETURN, SHIFT, SPACE, CLR/HOME, and INST/DEL are red, and user keys OFF/RVS, RUN/STOP, CSR↑↓, and CSR←→ are light blue.
Press CSR↑↓ and CSR←→ to move the cursor down and right. Hold SHIFT and the corresponding key to move the cursor up and left. Commodore repeats this cursor key arrangement on the VIC-20 and the C64.

Here’s the love/hate relationship. You hate using the keyboard and it can’t be used to touch-type. Because you can’t touch-type on it, the keyboard makes sense and makes hammering out longer Commodore BASIC sequences faster. Faster than touch-typing? No. But if you have to suffer with hunt and peck, things can go quicker with this layout when you use command short cuts (the first two or three letters of a command with the second or third character shifted) and the keys on the top row. Since you don’t have to hold the shift key for special characters, you can enter those quickly.

With a review of the industrial design complete, let’s, “literally” (and I did use that correctly) lift the hood and see what’s side.

Lift the Case

The case includes a hinged top to open the PET like the hood of a car. It even includes a “hood-stand” to hold the top of the PET open. Inside the PET is the motherboard and power supply. There’s even ample room left over to throw in a spare tire or luggage for your weekend trip! The first time I lifted the hood, I knew it was time for this PET to get a good interior cleaning.

First step, clean up!

Externally, my PET was clean and in good condition. Scott gave the device lots of love and attention to the exterior, even touching up scratches with paint. Opening the Commodore PET revealed an interior of dirt. Scott later mentioned that he wanted to clean the interior before VCFMW 2022 but ran out of time.

I was not averse to a cleaning and grabbed the alcohol, swabs, toothbrush, and a rag. I removed the motherboard to make cleanup easier and inspected everything as I removed them for any damage. There was none. In the end, the interior looked pristine! Now I have to keep it that way.

Once the PET was all cleaned up, it was time to make the upgrades.

What upgrades did I make?

Below is a list of the upgrades I purchased:

SD2PET Future - Commodore PETfrom TFW8B for $100
Commodore PET RAM/ROM from TFW8B for $85
PET Dual Joystick Adapter from TFW8B for $20
Stupid PET Tricks from BIT ZEAL for $55

It is important to note that upgrade #2 is required before numbers 1 and 3 to work. Total cost for the upgrades was $260.00. I could have saved $20 if I had not purchased the redundant PET Dual Joystick Adapter.

SD2PET Future - Commodore PET

The SD2PET Future plugs into the IEEE-488 port on the back of the PET. It requires power and that adapter plugs into the Datasette port. The SD card is accessible from the rear of the PET as are the drive reset button and the activity LED that flashes red and green.

FAT Format the SD card and drop on .PRG and .D64 files. Use the complicated OPEN command to access the files; however, stay tuned. The RAM/ROM expansion has a few tricks up its sleeve.

Commodore PET RAM/ROM

The next upgrade was TFW8B’s Commodore PET RAM/ROM unit. Installation is simple:

Remove the original 6502 processor.
Plug the 6502 processor into the RAM/ROM board.
Plug the RAM/ROM into the PET motherboard 6502 socket.
Set the DIP switches to activate a ROM version and set memory expansion.
Turn on the PET.

DIP switches control the configuration of the RAM/ROM expansion. With the PET turned off, configure the PET using the DIP settings for ROM and RAM options, as shown in the image below.

NOTE: You must use version 2 or 4 of the ROM in order to use the IEEE-488 user port.

When I first used the SD2PET Future, I became frustrated with the long commands necessary to access disk images and program files. But after reading the RAM/ROM instructions, I discovered the ROM includes Nils Eilers DOS Wedge. Enter SYS 36864 and new DOS commands are available like / to load software. I use this shortcut keystroke on the MEGA65! I will not cover these features in this video, but if there’s interest, drop a comment below to let me know.

Joystick Connector

This adapter adds two joystick ports to the back of the PET. Software must support this feature. I could have saved a few bucks since the Stupid PET Tricks (below) includes these ports; however, I’m happy I can support retro computing vendors and I may find a use for the adapter later.

Stupid PET Tricks

Stupid PET Tricks lets your PET “do stupid (fun) tricks”. The plug-in user port module adds joysticks and sound to play games with beautiful PETSCII graphics. A Wi-Fi modem dials into a BBS using Telnet. Other features include:

Single joystick (full function compatible with Space Invaders pin out)
Dual joysticks (typical fire button hack where it equals up and down)
3.5mm sound port
Wi-Fi optional module (up to 2400 bps)
PET Term Software module programed with Zimodem code)
Powertap adapter to draw power for the Wi-Fi modem from the Datasette port

That’s a whole lot of tricks in this single device.

Are the upgrades valuable?

What amazed me the most was that all these upgrades worked in tandem with each other. The SD2PET Future and Stupid PET Tricks both draw power from the user port and I worried it was a “one or the other” affair, which is not ideal; however, the Stupid PET Tricks Power Tap option includes a pass through allowing me to plug in the SD2PET Future. Nice!

In order to use the SD2PET Future, the PET needs ROM version 2 or 4 instead of the stock version 1. That’s where the RAM/ROM upgrade comes in. Flip a few DIP switches and the Commodore PET now features ROM version 4 and 32 KB of RAM.

I can use the tape drive to load and save programs; however, using the SD2PET Future with an upgraded ROM means I don’t need to search for a bulky Commodore 8050 floppy drive unit and the SD2PET Future loads programs faster.

^{Source: Wikipedia}

The RAM/ROM unit upgrades memory to 32 KB and gives me the option to run more software. The Stupid PET Tricks joysticks ports make playing games alone or with a friend more enjoyable and accurate than using the cursor keys or alphanumeric keys to control game characters. Tapping into the sound on the Commodore PET means games and other programs now have audio cues! And last, I can now use my PET as a true computer terminal by connecting to various BBSs using the Wi-Fi modem.

That’s a lot of new features on a hampered stock Commodore PET. With the investment I made into the PET, these additional upgrades were an easy decision. The only disappointment is that I cannot upgrade my PET to an 80-column display to take advantage of a larger library of titles. Or can I? If I can, I’m sure viewers will let me know.

I mention earlier that I’d love to have an 80-column display. I’ll add to this that a full-size keyboard would be another upgrade I wish I could make. I’d like to experience one of the later PETs but after this investment, I don’t see one of those in my future but I’ll keep my eye open. There’s one variant, the SuperPET, I’d love to add to my collection. It includes a larger 12” inch 80 column screen, 96 KB of memory, BASIC 4.0 and other programming languages (Waterloo microAPL, microFORTRAN, microBASIC, microPASCAL, microCOBOL), microEDITOR a modal text editor, and built-in RS-232 to serve as a Terminal. That’s my dream PET! Check out the Zimmers.net SuperPET page to understand why I drool over this PET variant.

^{Source: https://vintagecomputer.ca/commodore-superpet-sp9000/}

But what about my upgrades? Even though they don’t bring me to SuperPET status, do I recommend them? YES! If there’s interest, I’ll describe the use of these upgrades, but I am not disappointed.

These upgrades make the Commodore PET more usable, fun, and interesting. Combined, the upgrades were not inexpensive, but neither was the Commodore PET! Without this additional investment, the PET would have been a show piece. These upgrades allow further experimentation and exploration of the PETs history. As a plus, these upgrades can be removed to return the Commodore PET to its original state. Other than cost, there’s no reason not to upgrade you Commodore PET with one or more of these devices.

Be sure to subscribe to the channel for more Commodore PET videos.

Want to learn more about the MEGA65, the last computer in the Commodore PET lineage? Check out my MEGA65 Introductory Video.

Learn more about my first computer, the Commodore VIC-20 in this video.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

10 Best Holiday Gifts for Retro Computing Fans in 2022

2022-11-24T00:00:00+00:00

It’s the 2022 holiday season and I’m going to help with your shopping by giving you a list of ten sure-fire purchases that will make your retro computing fan ecstatic Christmas morning. These are all items I used and featured on the channel or blog this past year. I guarantee each to be a hit for those gift recipients not on the naughty list. Speaking of lists, I include a comprehensive list of links in this post. Most of the suggestions are available from Amazon and I include both US and UK links (these are affiliate links) since my readers hail from both sides of the pond. Let’s get started!

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
The BIG 10
Summing Up:
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: 10 (+2) holiday and Christmas gifts retro computing fans will love!

Video Errata

2022-11-26: Removed MEGA65 ship date information.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

I use affiliate links. Thanks for your support of the blog and the YouTube channel when you use these links.

Cloner Alliance Box Pro - US $180 / UK £190
$19 4K HDMI Video Capture Card - US $18 / UK £14
ATEM Mini Line - US $270-1500 / UK £260-1600
The Computers that Made Britain - US $15 / UK £12
TheC64 mini - US $45 / UK £45
TheC64 maxi - US $120 / UK £120
TheVIC20 US - Not Available / UK $120
TheA500 mini - US $126 / UK £98
A Hobbyist’s Guide to THEA500 Mini for $19 or £13
TheMouse - US $30 / UK £30
TheJoystick - US $30 / UK £26
TheGamepad - US $34 / UK £26
mouSTer US $36
Boxed Software from Poly.Play - Prices Vary
Clockwork Pi Cyber Deck - Starting at US $239
Virtual T - Free
Kindle Scribe - US $340 / UK £329
Selection of Retro Computing ebooks - US $0-100 / UK £0-100
YouTube Premium - US $12
MEGA65 - Highly Advanced C64 and C65 Compatible Computer US $690.00
Fi Unlimited - Starting at US $45
Hyperkin Trooper - US $21 / UK £27
Hyperkin Ranger - US $25 / UK £31

The BIG 10

Here’s my list of ten gifts that will put a smile on any retro computing hobbyist for fan.

1. Cloner Alliance Pro

BUY: Cloner Alliance Box Pro - US $180 / UK £190

The Cloner Alliance Pro is a device that has been with me since I started my retro computing journey. While there are many devices to capture old format video, the Cloner Alliance Pro captures them all! The devices include capture inputs for HDMI, VGA, RGB, and AV.

This stand-alone device records directly to a USB drive and has an HDMI out port. Windows users can capture directly from the device, but Windows and Linux users will need an inexpensive capture device like this inexpensive 4K HDMI Video Capture Card.

I run the HDMI out into an ATEM Mini Extreme ISO to integrate retro computing footage into my live streams. For prepared videos, I can either capture the footage to the USB drive or have the ATEM capture and record the input.

Even if you are not a YouTuber, retro computing fans can use the device to capture footage of games or single screens to save, analyze, or share on social media platforms.

The device has a clunky UI but I’ve found it to be indispensable since it includes settings to change the format from 4:3 to 16:9 since many capture devices stretch the original image in favor of the native 16:9 HDMI format. For even more fun, you can use this device to capture any HDMI out and even use it to play back video. Even includes a remote but remind Santa that, “batteries are NOT included!”

2. The Computers that Made Britain

BUY: The Computers that Made Britain - US $15 / UK £12

I love books for Christmas and The Computers that Made Britain provides eighteen stories about the most influential computers in Europe in the late 1970s and early 1980s.

From the Research Machine 380Z (wasn’t that a sports car?) to the Acorn Archimedes, Tim Danton explore the history and influence of each computer. Pick up a chapter individually to learn about your favorite or mow through each chapter sequentially to explore the rich history of British computers.

This Yank learned more about the British computer scene while learning more about the computers that influenced my journey in the states during the early 1980s. Get this book and watch your recipient find a place next to the fireplace for a spot of tea and Christmas Day reading.

3. TheC64 and variants

BUY: TheC64 mini - US $45 / UK £45
BUY: TheC64 maxi - US $120 / UK £120
Buy: TheVIC20 US - Not Available / UK $120

There’s no doubt that this next selection made a controversial mark on the retro computing community. First released as the TheC64 mini, this Commodore 64 recreation didn’t include a working keyboard which made using the device with software awkward, was as the name implies mini, had a horrible joystick, and had a carousel motif with a few games that many found off-putting.

Later, to quell the keyboard criticism, a full-size keyboard was included and on a “maxi” variant and even another “maxi” based on TheVIC20. A new joystick for both TheC64 and TheVIC20 included mechanical switches. Firmware updates allowed the user to put all the world’s Commodore 64 and VIC-20 games on a single USB drive besides the included and licensed games.

No matter which side of the fence you sit on, you have to agree that the “TheSeries” made an impact. It brought a no longer manufactured platform back to the market. I have a TheC64 mini and was lucky to snag a TheVIC20 that included VIC-20 titles and color scheme. No matter which variant you pick, your retro computing friend or family will love any of these under their tree. Make sure they don’t have one, though!

4. TheA500 mini

BUY: TheA500 mini - US $126 / UK £98

Speaking of the “TheSeries”, if your retro computing fan is more 16 rather than 8 bit, get them a TheA500 mini. A “TheSeries” recreation of the Amiga 500. This first generation suffers from a lack of a keyboard but makes up with a CD32 style game controller and a 1351 style two-button mouse (more on TheMouse later). Like its sibling devices, TheA500 mini can use a USB drive to add more games to the limited selection of games included in the carousel interface.

Can we expect a “maxi” version of TheA500? Probably, but there’s no reason to wait this holiday season. Put one of these under the tree and watch your retro fan go crazy playing Amiga 500 games on a large screen television using the included HDMI port.

What’s that? Your gift recipient has a The500? Well, give them a copy of A Hobbyist’s Guide to THEA500 Mini for $19 or £13. Then they can learn how to get the most out of TheA500 mini.

5. TheMouse with RetroHax mouSTer

BUY: TheMouse - US $30 / UK £30
BUY: TheJoystick - US $30 / UK £26
BUY: TheGamepad - US $34 / UK £26
BUY: mouSTer US $36

One last “TheSeries” option that makes a great gift option is to purchase a TheMouse. Retro Games has made TheJoystick, TheMouse, and TheController available separately. These are all USB devices and work great on “TheSeries” devices and modern PCs; however, what if you want to use TheMouse on an original Atari or Commodore computer? RetroHax has the adapter for you.

Plug the mouSTer into the 9 pin DIN connector found on many 8-bit computers, plug in a USB mouse, in this case TheMouse, and then use TheMouse in place of a 1351 mouse which is almost impossible to find. As a plus, no more pulling lint out of the track ball hole found on the original Commodore mice because your mouse now uses lasers!

6. Boxed Software from Poly.Play

BUY: Boxed Software from Poly.Play - Prices Vary

I’ve covered two boxed MEGA65 software titles from PolyPlay; Hibernated 1 The Director’s Cut and Showdown - Collector’s Edition. However, PolyPlay has a whole selection of boxed titles available for almost any platform of retro computers. Why boxed software?

Retro computing fans remember a time when you purchased your software not from an online store, but off the shelves. We then took our purchase home, opened it, read the instructions, and enjoyed bonus items in the box, such as stickers and posters.

Poly.Play brings back those days by packing new titles for retro computers in original and fun boxes. This gift will put a smile on almost any retro computing fan. You’ll have a blast shopping on their site trying to decide which game will be the hit Christmas morning and you’ll smile when they open their gift.

Poly.Play even stocks retro computing hardware for main gifts or stocking stuffers. Poly.Play could be your one-stop shop for retro computing holiday shopping. You are welcome!

7. Clockwork Pi Cyber Deck

BUY: Clockwork Pi Cyber Deck - Starting at US $239

This next pick is a mix of modern tech with a retro design loosely based on the Tandy TRS-80 Model 100. This is another device that would take more time, but you can learn more here, than I have in this list to describe but think “cyber-deck.”

The Clockwork Pi comes in a couple of different hardware variations, but the fun on Christmas morning comes when the receiver opens the box to learn that they get to put this “snap-tight” computer together. No tools are required and once you complete the assembly, you have a 65% sized, but infinitely more powerful, replica of the Tandy TRS-80 Model 100, but running Linux, which lets you install retro emulators to expand the experience.

For more TRS-80 Model 100 nostalgia, remind your recipient to install the TRS-80 Model 100 emulator, Virtual T. Then, they can relive those days of one of the most popular portable computing devices of the 1980s. Complete with word-processing and BASIC!

8. Kindle Scribe

Buy: Kindle Scribe - US $340 / UK £329

Retro computing fans collect a bunch of PDF files and scans of technical documents, user’s manuals, and out-of-print books. And while this is convenient, reading them on a computer is not comfortable on the eyes and annotating in the margins or on the pages is difficult. A Kindle provides an e-ink display that’s easy on the eyes but lacks annotation abilities. The new Kindle Scribe adds annotation in natural form via the use of a pen and an extra large 10.1-inch screen. It will prove to be the closet experience yet for PDF file reading and writing.

There are more features and you can check them all out on the Kindle Scribe page. Mine is on pre-order and I’ll let you know what I think about it in future videos, so make sure and hit that subscribe button below so you don’t miss it.

If your recipient has a Kindle, consider this selection of retro computing eBooks - US $0-100 / UK £0-100

9. YouTube Premium

BUY: YouTube Premium - US $12

I don’t know a retro computing hobbyist who doesn’t watch YouTube; however, YouTube, without a premium membership, can sometimes subject viewers to multiple ads. I get it, creators need to monetize and ads are how we pay for our content. But if you want to get rid of ads AND continue to support content creators, gift of a YouTube Premium membership.

As a bonus, YouTube Premium provides the ability to download YouTube video for those long travel sessions where connectivity is an issue. You also get “background play” that keeps the content flowing whether you flip to another app or lock the screen. Finally, a YouTube Premium membership includes YouTube Music! It’s the prefect package for your retro video and music loving friend or family member this holiday season.

Oh, and if you are giving a Pixel Phone, snag the Fi Unlimited mobile service with YouTube Premium starting at US $45

10. BIG TICKET ITEM: MEGA65

BUY: MEGA65 - Highly Advanced C64 and C65 Compatible Computer US $690.00

If you want to make your retro computing fan thrilled this Christmas, get them a MEGA65. While it likely won’t arrive by Christmas, put a note in a box and tell them Santa will deliver it in 2023. Know nothing about the MEGA65, my channel has a whole playlist devoted to this amazing device. But for a quick recap, the MEGA65 is a recreation of the never released Commodore 65. It’s a whole thing I don’t have time to cover but I’ll link to my introductory video at the end of this video. This will make your retro fan happy. Make sure you are ready for tears and a hug.

BONUS SELF PROMOTION ITEM:

BUY: retroCombs Memberships - $1 to $200

If you or your retro computing fan is a fan of my channel, purchase them a Commodore 128 producer-level or MEGA65 executive producer-level membership. That provides a credit for most of my videos, a listing on my supporters page, free electronic goodies, access to my Discord channel, and executive producers receive an annual gift. If you want the stocking stuffer versions, check out my PET or VIC-20 level memberships and the other Commodore inspired levels in between. All are great values and make for the perfect last-minute gift. I promise to keep them happy all year round. retroCombs, the gift that keeps on giving!

BONUS Stocking Stuffer

BUY: Hyperkin Trooper - US $21 / UK £27
BUY: Hyperkin Ranger - US $25 / UK £31

Let’s not go out with a shameless self promotion. The Hyperkin Ranger and Trooper both include a 9 pin DIN connector, the original connector found on my retro computing platforms such as Atari, TI, and Commodore. These modern recreations are the perfect stocking stuffer. The Trooper resembles the original Atari 2600 joystick, and the Ranger is a game pad style controller but includes a paddle controller!

Summing Up:

What did you think about this list? Disagree, want to add an item? Leave a comment down below. I’d love to hear your ideas. If I missed something good, I’ll share your idea with the Lovely Accountant. Maybe she’ll purchase your recommendation for me. Or, send me your gift. Just reach out at retrocombs@icloud.com and I’ll tell you where you can send it.

Wanna watch that MEGA65 introduction and learn more, check out this video.

Want more info on why I think TheC64/VIC20 are great holiday gifts, here’s another video.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Xanadu / BAS Demo for the MEGA65 from Syntax 2022

2022-11-19T00:00:00+00:00

A couple of MEGA65 programmers, Gürçe and Deathy, reached out to ask for assistance. The two collaborated with the BAS demo group to participate in Syntax 2022 a “Demoparty” held in Melbourne Australia on November 11 and 12th. You can read more about this and past year’s events at the Syntax DemoParty web site.

What was the BAS demo groups’s goal for Syntax 2022? To create the most kicking MEGA65 demo using both assembly language and BASIC while honoring the legacy of one of Australia beloved treasures, and I’m not talking haggis. But I’m not going to spoil the surprise. The demo disk includes both an assembly language demo and a BASIC demo. After the demo, I’ll share my reactions and additional information sent to me by Gürçe and Deathy.

By the way, I captured this demo from hardware, a MEGA65, and not in emulation; however, if you want to run these demos in emulation, you can download and install XEMU on your Windows, Mac, Linux, or even Chrome OS device. NOW, on to the demo.

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Additional Thoughts
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Xanadu, the BAS MEGA65 entry to the SYNTAX 2022 Demoparty!

Video Errata

None as of 2022-11-19.

Additional Thoughts

To be clear. I had nothing to do with this demo. Both developers reached out to me and asked if I would take time to capture and share their creation since I had capture equipment and a channel full of MEGA65 fans. I was thrilled to be asked and now after seeing this demos…WOW! While the assembly language version does a great job of highlighting the hardware features of the MEGA65, I’m blown away by the BASIC version and can’t wait to dig into the BASIC code to see how parts of the demo were created.

When Gürçe reached out, he shared the paraphrased information below:

This is the second MEGA65 demo to feature at a demo party, but the first to highlight the VIC4 capabilities. The BAS goal was to bring together a collective of creative coders to explore the capabilities and limits of the MEGA65. When one demo group or team sees this, the hope is that other demo teams will try to push push the hardware even more.

SPOILER: There’s another demo team hard at work with plans to reveal their work at an upcoming demo party. Hey team, let me know if I can help feature your work! We can’t wait to see it.

Retro Computing fans shouldn’t be surprised by this project. Even in 2022 demo groups continue to exploit old hardware and Commodore computers are a favorite target. We’ve seen recent demos for the C64 and even the PET!

I hope you enjoyed this demo video. If you did, leave a comment below. Thanks to Gürçe and Deathy for this opportunity to share the BAS Demo Group’s work. My wanna be programmer geek side has to wonder, am I now an honorary member of the BAS demo team?

If you liked this demo, check out my Part I: Playing the C64 demos from the MEGA65 on boarding SD Card.

If you want to learn more about the MEGA65, check out my Introduction to the MEGA65 video.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Supercharge your DaVinci Resolve workflow with Paletro for Mac OS

2022-11-05T00:00:00+00:00

DaVinci Resolve is my goto video editing software but I’m often frustrated with the complex and expansive command set. There’s no denying, the cost is excellent (free or $300 for a lifetime licensed version) and there’s a huge base of users who share tips and tricks to make learning the software easier, like one of my favorites, MrAlexTech. But despite Alex’s fine presentation of tips and tricks, I always find myself asking, now where is that freeze frame command (or insert any other command)? But I’ve found my solution!

It’s time for me to share another tool I use to create my retro-computing content.

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
The Command Palette
Paletro
Paletro with DaVinci Resolve
Additional Paletro Information
Conclusion
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Supercharge DaVinci Resolve with Paletro for Mac OS

Video Errata

Throughout the entire video I call Paletro, Paletor. Why? I have no idea and I didn’t have the wherewithal to rerecord. Please accept my apologies for being lazy but I trust it won’t distract from the value of this video.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

I use affiliate links. Thanks for your support of the blog and the YouTube channel when you use these links.

The Command Palette

Obsidian, Sublime Text, and Visual Studio Code users power their way through these apps using a command palette. In both programs, the command palette activates when you hit a shortcut similar to ⇧ + ⌘ + p. When the palette displays, the user types the first few letters of a command the command reveals available software options. The command palette is unique to specific software; unless you are a Mac user.

Paletro

While listening to the Mac Power User’s podcast, the guys mentioned the software Paletro, a $7 Mac OS X application and available on SetApp). Paletro provides command palette access to every Mac application, they promised.

I was intrigued, researched the app, and said, “this would be awesome with DaVinci Resolve.” Why DaVinci Resolve? Because that software is inundated with commands in the pull-down menus and I can NEVER remember where things are located or their keyboard shortcuts.

Paletro with DaVinci Resolve

DaVinci Resolve does not include a command palette. It does include a help function that searches available commands, but you need to mouse up to the menu select it and then type the name of the command. With Paletro, I activate the app, type a few letters, and BOOM!

Let me show you you how it works with these ten examples that supercharge my workflow:

Freeze Frame - freeze
Dual Display Views - dual
Create a new Timeline - new tim
Media Page - media
Deliver Page - del
Edit Page - edit
Fairlight Page - fair
New Timeline - timel
Inspector On/Off - in
Split Clip - spl
Effects - eff

This is a small sampling of the power of pull-down menu access using Paletro. Prior to Paletro, I would use the mouse. Sure DaVinci Resolve includes keyboard shortcuts, but Paletro simplifies and reveals commands.

Here’s one last use case example. Let’s say you know there’s a command in the Edit menu but you can’t remember the name. Paletro can reveal it:

Activate Paletro with ⇧ + ⌘ + p.
Type edit and an arrow will appear next to the word.
Hit ↹ or → and Paletro will display the commands in that menu.
Type a few letters to limit the options further.

Additional Paletro Information

Paletro works with DaVinci Resolve but it is important to note that this software works with any Mac OS software. If a title includes its own command palette, Paletro has a preference option to deactivate.

Speaking of preferences, here are a few others:

Start on Login
Show current app icon on left
Show options on right
Set the number of items to display
Change the theme (install themes coming soon)
Change the hotkey (but why?)
Exclude apps
Exclude menu or menu items
Install extensions (haven’t seen any yet)

Paletro is valuable for content creator on a Mac beyond video editing. For instance, I do all my writing in iA Writer, which does not include a command palette, and I have several keyboard shortcuts in my muscle memory but for the commands that I don’t have memorized, Paletro discovers them to make learning the app faster and using the app easier.

Conclusion

If you find Paletro useful for your workflow, post a comment below. If you are interested in another video tool I use, check out my Use a USB Webcam with an ATEM Mini and the RBGLink TAO 1tiny video. If you need more of my retro-computing content, check out Vintage Computer Festival Midwest 2022 video.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

My MEGA65 Laptop

2022-10-02T00:00:00+00:00

I love my MEGA65 but it’s not a device you throw in your bag on your way out the front door. A portable MEGA65 is in the works but the design is a phone form factor and lacks a physical keyboard.

I’ve shared how to install XEMU on ChromeOS and Mac OS and while the emulator is handy on these computers, the lack of a Commodore keyboard makes the experience confusing and awkward. In this blog post, I’ll share my newest solution to travel with a MEGA65 system and my attempt to include a somewhat Commodore like keyboard.

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned
Picking a Laptop
Windows Benefits
Keyboard Modification
XEMU Benefits
Syncing Files
Frustrations
What’s Missing
Summing Up
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Title

Video Errata

None as of 2022-10-01.

Links Mentioned

I use affiliate links. Thanks for your support of the blog and the YouTube channel when you use these links.

Picking a Laptop

My portable MEGA65 solution requires a spare laptop. As I’ve said, I use the MEGA65 emulator, XEMU, on both a MacBook Pro and Chromebook. The Chromebook keyboard is the least like a Commodore keyboard and while the MacBook Pro includes more keys to remap, neither keyboard includes PETSCII characters on the keys or includes Commodore specific keys such as RUN/STOP and RESTORE.

For my portable MEGA65 solution, I chose to use a Windows computer. I don’t own a Windows computer and haven’t for over 15 years. I began my search on eBay and I was looking for something around $300 that included a lot of memory and a large SSD so I could do other things with the device if required. My search led me to a Lenovo ThinkPad T480 with 14” screen, an Intel i5-8350U 1.70 GHz, 512 GB SSD, and 16 GB RAM. I’ve always liked the Lenovo brand, the link back to IBM (a computer manufacturer from the 8-bit days), the integrated keyboard pointing device, and the great keyboard.

Four days after the winning bid, the laptop arrived as advertised. It was time to reacquaint myself my Windows. Something I was not looking forward to and was not surprised when I turned the laptop on for the first time to find myself in the Windows setup process complete with all the updates. But this isn’t a Windows bashing blog post. Let me explain other reasons I choose Windows other than the keyboard.

Windows Benefits

I hate to admit it, but Windows is the best operating system to use for my portable MEGA65 development device and for Commodore retro-computing. As an Apple fan, it pains me to make this admission; however, there a three main reasons:

Better keyboard compatibility with Commodore emulators.
Large selection of Commodore emulator and development software such as VICE, DirMaster and CBM prg Studio.
Ubiquitous and inexpensive computers are available to run emulation software efficiently.

The Lenovo I purchased ups the Windows OS ante by including the a good HD screen, decent battery life (for Windows), lots of onboard memory, and enough storage to hold all the world’s retro-computer emulators and software. The Lenovo’s ThinkPad profile form factor lets me drop it into my bag next to my MacBook Pro when I travel and use the same USB-C power/charging adapter. The only thing that would make it better is if it included a Commodore keyboard. Now I can’t replace the keyboard on the Lenovo, but I can “Commodore it up!”

Keyboard Modification

I don’t make any physical modifications to the Lenovo keyboard but I do add wonderful Commodore 64 Black Keyboard Labels on top of the majority of key caps. You can see this process in the companion video and because laptop keys are smaller than their desktop keyboard counterparts, I did make modifications to labels. In the end, I love the look of the keyboard but more importantly, the labels remind me which number keys are which colors and which keys produce PETSCII characters. I’ve even labeled non-standard keys, RUN/STOP and RESTORE! It’s a great solution that makes using the XEMU emulator, and other Commodore emulators, more productive and enjoyable.

XEMU Benefits

You might wonder if using emulation software diminishes the MEGA65 experience. As mentioned, I miss that wonderful MEGA65 keyboard because it’s the best keyboard found on any Commodore computer. The Lenovo keyboard isn’t as good, but better than keyboards found on a VIC-20 or C64. XEMU provides other advantages over hardware to include:

Screen captures are a right-click away to share your programming, games, or technical issues with the community.
Configurable keyboard.cfg file to make changes to the Windows PC keyboard layout.
Full-screen mode fills the laptop screen with full MEGA65 blue glow and provides a distraction free environment.
On Windows, a USB Joystick (WORK OR NOT?)
Drag and drop .D81 image files makes it easy to swap out floppy disk images.
Running software like DirMaster in tandem with XEMU provides a slick round trip solution to prepare disk images for final use on the MEGA65.

I’m sure other benefits exist. If have recommendations, share in the comments below.

Syncing Files

If I’m using XEMU to create BASIC programs, how do I share that disk image with my MEGA65? I use Google Drive to sync files across computers but any cloud tool works. I use a folder named MEGA65 to sync the disk image. That folder syncs to a Mac mini that’s connected to my MEGA65 using a DSD USB to TTL Adapter. I use M65 Connect to move the disk image from the cloud folder to the MEGA65. Do I wish I could cloud sync the file directly, sure, but this solution works. If I make modifications on the MEGA65, I must remember to copy the disk image back to the Mac and the cloud folder.

Frustrations

While I love my MEGA65 laptop, its not without frustrations. I’d forgotten how quickly Intel processors drain batteries in both use and in sleep mode. On my M1 MacBook Pro with XEMU, I can program all day long without a charge. The Lenovo is done in about 4 hours.

Windows 11, while an improvement from the last version I used, is a mess. Holding on to legacy UI components makes managing the system a visual and user disaster. I remember why I moved to Linux and Mac OS. Finally, updating the OS and software is the same pain I remember it being. On the Mac and with Linux, updating software is a simple affair. If someone has advice for me, please post that in the comments below.

What’s Missing

I need the two items below to make this install complete:

I need a MEGA65 sticker on the lid. I didn’t have time to order one before I completed this video.
I want to find a USB joypad controller that I can throw in the travel bag. A full size joystick is too bulky for travel.

Time to sum up my MEGA65 laptop experiment.

Summing Up

I enjoy creating BASIC programs and experimenting with the MEGA65 emulator on the Lenovo laptop. It’s a good solution until someone recreates the MEGA65 in a Commodore LCD form factor. As I make new discoveries or modifications with my MEGA65 laptop, I’ll be sure to share.

If you’d like more information about the DSD USB to TTL Adapter, check out this video.

Want to learn more about using the MEGA65 keyboard, check out this video.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

My Vintage Computer Festival Midwest 2022 Experience and Commodore PET Purchase

2022-09-11T00:00:00+00:00

This blog post serves as an outline for a companion video that highlights my experiences at the 2022 Vintage Computer Festival Midwest (VCFMW). This is not a word-for-word script but outline with additional supporting links. For the complete experience, watch the companion video.

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Video Outline
- Travel
- The Day
- Exhibits
- My Purchase
- The Drive Home
- Summing Up
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: My VCFMW 2022 Experience and a New Addition to my Collection

Video Errata

None as of 2022-09-11.

Video Outline

Below is the outline for my video complete with links.

Travel

VCFMW was held on September 10 & 11 2022 in Elmhurst, IL at the Waterford Banquets/Clarion Inn.
Jamie, Mike, and I left September 8 from Columbus, Indiana.
Jamie, over at Jamie’s Hack Shack, was kind enough to drive his Civic Type R.
We arrived in a timely manner, safely, and in style the evening prior for one-day visit to the festival
We didn’t stay at the conference hotel, but choose a Courtyard by Marriott about 7 minutes from the venue.
We arrived at Elmhurst, IL in time for a dinner and chose this fantastic Italian deli, Frankie’s Deli where we each grabbed a fresh deli sandwich and a side.
Afterward I stocked up on groceries for the lovely accountant.
We enjoyed a fabulous dinner and chatted all things retro-computing before heading back to our hotel for a slumber.
Back in my room, I dozed off to a good book to get me ready for the next day.

The Day

We woke up around 8 a.m., checked out, and the three of us meet downstairs in the lobby of the hotel around 8:45 to depart for the event.
This was Mike’s first experience and we travel to the event location, he had questions and we shared our 2021 experience. Before we knew it, we arrived.
As we pulled up, Jamie and I immediately noticed that the attendance for this year was up from 2021. If you are interested that visit, check out the video description for a link to that companion blog post that shares the 2021 experience.
We snuck into a parking spot available at the side of the venue. Grabbed our gear and headed inside sharing a conversation who was attending for the first time from Ohio.
My goal was to immediately head to the Bonus Life Computers tables. Last year I found an amazing value on a TI-994/A, and knew if I was to pick up anything this year, he would be my source. And did I get a find. More on this later.
Mike and Jamie both made purchases for BLC. As an aside, I recommend BLC for all you retro-computing purchases. All items are clean, in working order, and priced accordingly. When you make purchases at the event you save shipping and get to try everything out. The only negative is that horrible Chicago/IL tax rate!
After securing our purchases, we headed into the show to see all kinds of fun things.

Exhibits

This is not a full list of what we saw, but here are my favorites:

The lobby had locations for old tech gear, badges (they were out at 9 a.m.!), and t-shirts. Jamie and Mike both got a shirt. I passed this year.
A VCF banner adorned the hallway in a cool DEC motif.
Down the hallway were tables filled with items for purchase such as Apple, Mac, PCs, Sun, and every other retro-brand.
No matter what you were looking for to either view or purchase, computer, monitor, or printers, you could find it at this show.
One of the most popular hallways was the main hall with vendor tables. This was hall served as the entrance to the main exhibit areas and it was alway crowded.
Tip: Go the vendor hallway first if you want to find bargains and once-of-show opportunities.
What surprised me both years was that retro-computers was not the only items on display or for sale. You can grab deals or look at peripherals and audio/video equipment.
One of the great parts of the show is seeing the things you’ve read about or haven’t experienced since the 1970s or 80s.
In the exhibit rooms, collectors had their tables set up and you never know who you might run into.
One of my favorite stops was a look at old tech used to keep cable channels alive including proprietary video titling and an Amiga 2000 with video toaster.
A Back to the Future home-brew Delorean dashboard was another favorite.
There were several projects I’d like to try lake a terminal connected to a Raspberry Pi.
Another favorites was this teletype printer.
In between favorite tables, I was stopped by Jim, who recognized me from the channel, and said, you have to sing happy birthday with us for the C64 birthday.
A table purchase I made was Wi-Fi RetroModem. This drop in Hayes modem replacement board connects any serial device/terminal to the internet. Scott sold me when I walked up.
Everyone knows I love the MEGA65, but I finally had a chance to take a look at the Commander X16 at the TexElec booth. I have new found respect for this computer since it uses a 6502 and not an FPGA.
About mid-way through the show, Jamie pointed out Robin, host of 8-Bit Show and Tell, who had collaborated with me on an earlier video and someone who I’d only met virtually. We had a great discussion and he’s a great guy.
Attendees found creative ways to share what they were selling. Hope this guy unloaded his Amiga!
This Odyssey display was super impressive and was popular among attendees. There was even a working model for sale. That was hard for me to pass up, but I had to for reasons I’ll share later.
One last computer I had a chance to see in the wild for the first time was a Commodore B128. A unicorn for me, I’m glad I could checked this one off my list. Now if I could only get my hands on a Commodore LCD!
We took a break around noon to get lunch at Portillo’s. It was a popular location for lunch for many attendees and there were several YouTube hosts trying to grab a bite before their 1:30 p.m. panel.
After lunch we returned to find the YouTube host panel room packed. We made one last round in the exhibits while it was thinned out. After about 30 mins, it was time for us start heading back home.
We headed back to the Bonus Life Computers tables to pick up our purchases which brings me back to…

My Purchase

Earlier, I mentioned my purchase:

When I arrived in the morning, I found an original, first generation Commodore PET 2001 with 8Kb of ram, a working internal tape drive, and that fabulous (looking that is) chiclet keyboard. I drooled over it for minutes.\
I asked if it was available and working. It was placed on the table right before I arrived. I’m glad we to the event right at 9 a.m.!
I stayed right in front of the PET while we tried it out trying to fend off the many folks looking at it behind me.
When I saw it was operational, I opened the top to look inside. Cosmetically, the PET is in amazing shape for a computer from 1977. The inside was dirty, but not overly and will be easy to clean up.
I asked the price. It was right about the price I had in my head. I stayed close to it, playing with the keyboard. After Jamie told me, if you don’t buy it I will, I committed to the purchase (sorry, Jamie!).
BLC let me keep it at their table while I enjoyed the show, I didn’t want it sitting in a hot car in a parking lot.
After the show, we packed up all our purchases from BLC on a cart and rolled them out to the car for the journey home.
My hope was the PET would be unaffected by the multiple roads under construction on the way home.
On the way home, I sent a tweet to Chuck Hutchins, a PET guru, to ask a few questions about my first steps.

The computer made it home on working condition from @vcfmidwest, thanks to @slofunk's safe driving. @HutchCA, where do I go from here? Looking to my PET guru for suggestions to get the most out of this PET 2001-8. pic.twitter.com/ViLZu0nM2r
— 🕹️ retroCombs 🇺🇸 (VCFW2022 Rocked!) (@StevenCombs) September 10, 2022
At home, I plugged in the PET and turned it on to find the PET made the trip safely.
I put it away for the rest of the evening to enjoy time with the Lovely Accountant.
The next morning, I saw a response from Chuck on the things I needed to get the most out of the PET. He had great suggestions.
I visited The Future Was 8 Bit and purchased three items. More on these items in upcoming blog posts or videos.

Thanks to @HutchCA for the Commodore PET advice. Order placed from @futurewas8bit and can't wait to add these upgrades to my PET. I'll share my experience in an upcoming video. Rod, if there's something else you'd like me to show, feel free to drop it in the box! 😉 pic.twitter.com/1QXJS3E1lg
— 🕹️ retroCombs 🇺🇸 (VCFW2022 Rocked!) (@StevenCombs) September 11, 2022

The Drive Home

The drive home we chatted about the exhibits, researched our purchases, and talked about what we would do with each of them.
Four hours later, we were back in Columbus unpacking our gear.

Summing Up

This year’s event was a blast. In addition to checking out and purchasing cool retro tech, I made new friends, got to chat with other YouTube hosts, and with four of folks who spotted me in the crowd. They each received a small thank you. Can’t wait until next year!

If you want to see my 2021 experience, check out this video.

For more on my VCFMW 2021 purchase, check out this video.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Use a RGBLink TAO 1tiny to connect a USB Webcam to an ATEM Mini Extreme ISO (or any ATEM mini)

2022-08-28T00:00:00+00:00

During the COVID pandemic of 2020, online meetings took over my life and, in a search to find a good meeting presence, I accumulated an insane number of USB webcams. Cameras quickly became scare, and I tried everything from available $25 fixed focus cameras an eventual and brilliant $130 4K Logitech Brio.

After a day of virtual meetings, I spent the evenings building my YouTube channel using these same webcams with OBS Studio on my Mac. I’d use the Brio for the headshot and one of the cheaper models for a workbench view. It worked and got me started, but I quickly saw the need for a dedicated audio/visual/streaming platform and better cameras. This lead me to the ATEM Mini followed by the ATEM Mini Extreme Iso.

The ATEM Mini line, unlike my YoloBox Pro, does not support USB cameras. To connect cameras to the ATEM Mini, the camera must have a clean HDMI out connection. This requires pricey DSLR or mirror-less cameras. I chose the mirror-less Sony ZV-1 for my setup but there were many to choose from including other popular streaming cameras like the Lumix G7.

NOTE: I tried a Canon EOS M50 which is a great camera, a disaster with the ATEM Mini. It took hacks to keep the thing recording and autofocus has to be turned off to use clean HDMI out. The Sony ZV-1 eliminates all these issues.

Starting cost for these cameras is around $600 and if you want two or more cameras in your studio, it’s a pricey proposition. My solution won’t be better than the cameras I mention, but if you if you have a high-quality webcam, this option may work and save money.

In this blog post and companion video, I’m going to introduce you to a product that connects a webcam to the ATEM mini, the $170 RGBLink TAO 1tiny. Let’s see how it works.

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
Unboxing
Connecting to the ATEM Mini (all models)
Testing Webcam Compatibility
Upgrading the Firmware
Testing the Upgrade and Fan Noise
The Value
Final Recommendation
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: _‌Use the RGBLink TAO 1tiny to connect a Webcam to an ATEM Mini _

Video Errata

None as of 2022-08-28.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Below are the links I mention in this blog post and companion video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. I’d like to thank everyone for your support of the blog and the YouTube channel when you start your purchases here!

Unboxing

Before I try the 1tiny, let’s see what comes in the small basic white box:

The 1tiny UVC to HDMI convertor
An instruction manual
A USB-C to USB-C cable
A USB-A to USB-C adapter

The 1tiny does not include a power brick. On the 1tiny are the following ports:

USB-C Power
USB 2.0 Connector (Firmware and Webcam)
USB 3.0 Connector (Webcam)
HDMI Out

There are no audio inputs on the 1tiny. The device does not support webcam microphones. With the 1tiny out of the box, let’s get it connected.

Connecting to the ATEM Mini (all models)

Connecting the 1tiny to the ATEM Mini is a breeze.

Connect an HDMI cable from the 1tiny to an HDMI-In on the ATEM Mini.
Select the correct input source on the ATEM Mini.
Plug the webcam into either the USB-A port or the USB-C input port. If using USB-C don’t confuse it with the USB-C port that provides power. Double-check the top labels on the 1tiny.
Plug the included USB-C cable into the USB-C power on the 1tiny and then plug the other end into a power source.

How does this differ from the my Sony ZV1 connection? Other than the brick, which is mounted on a vertical support bar, it doesn’t. There’s an HDMI plug to my ATEM mini and a power source for the 1tiny. It’s a pretty lean setup since TAO kept the unit as “1tiny” as they could.

Testing Webcam Compatibility

Once I made the connections and applied power, the first thing I noticed was the sound of a fan. The 1tiny has an internal fan and you can hear it! When you install this in your studio, be sure to keep it away from your microphone. I don’t suspect, with a good microphone, that your audience will hear it, but it surprised me that this tiny device needed a fan.

I was eager to test compatibility with webcams. Does this 1tiny work with all the webcams I own? I have a good selection of webcams that includes, from what I consider lowest to highest quality:

NOTE: TAO recommends a cool camera to use with the 1tiny; the $170 OBSBOT Tiny Pan Tilt Zoom (PTZ) Webcam paired with the $40 OBSBOT Tiny Remote Control. I don’t have this device, but would love to give this a try. If it works and the camera quality is good, I could move around my studio with a setup much cheaper than a PTZ camera alone.

In the video, I try each one and provide a tag at the bottom of the page to identify the webcam in use.

Upgrading the Firmware

Out of the box, my 1tiny was a few firmware versions behind. Luckily, TAO makes it easy to find the firmware and upgrade. Here are the steps from the instructions:

Visit the TAO 1tiny web page.
Scroll down to the Details area and click the Downloads header.
Scroll down to the bottom of the page to the XPOSE & Firmware area.
Click the word Firmware and the file will download to your computer.
Locate the download and decompress it. A folder with a name similar to TAO 1tiny_Firmware_V1.21.5.30_EN_20220715 appear.
Click inside the folder to find two PDF files and another folder called Upgrade File. Double-click the folder.
Inside the folder is a file with a name similar to tiny4kfirmware-v1.21.5.30-release-rgblink.img. Copy that folder to a FAT formatted USB drive. The instructions recommend there not be any other files on the USB drive. I concur with them.
Unplug the USB-C power cable on the 1tiny but leave HDMI and the webcam plugged in.
Plug the USB drive into the 1tiny.
Plug the USB-C power back into the 1tiny. The device will boot and soon two successive screens appear to indicate the upgrade status.
Once complete, the 1tiny will reboot and display the old and new firmware upgrade versions. That’s a great feature. I wish more devices did this to show the upgrade path.
The webcam will appear on the ATEM Mini.

The whole process takes about 5 minutes.

Testing the Upgrade and Fan Noise

The upgrade README lists a quieter fan feature. I noticed a slight difference. The upgrade was not as impactful as I hoped.

I was curious if after the upgrade, all the cameras worked. They did.

The Value

Is the TAO 1tiny worth $180? If you add a $130 Logitech Brio, your total cost is for a high quality, auto focus, 4k camera is $310. I have two $200 Zoom Q2n-4K. These portable cameras have great sound and are great outdoor cameras that struggle in low light; however, their flexibility and inclusion of a micro-HDMI connector made them attractive. My plan was always to upgrade these to a mirror-less camera on my ATEM Mini setup and then use these cameras as part of an on-the-go studio with the YoloBox Pro.

The Zooms are setup in two locations, one as a studio camera, where it works well, and another a top-down camera for my desk where it performs poorly. I know the camera isn’t for top-down views; however, I’ve radiated my desk with a ton of light and for unknown reasons, the camera will not give me the quality I need.

Replacing the top-down desk camera with the TAO 1tiny and the BRIO that is a huge upgrade. The BRIO performs better in low light and has autofocus. A camera that would get close to these functions is $500 and up. In my case, a person with a spare webcam and using Amazon affiliate revenue to cut the cost of the TAO 1tiny in half made this a good value proposition. My total cost for the setup, at the time of purchase, was $100. That’s a heck of a deal!

Final Recommendation

I’ll admit, the TAO 1tiny has an initial sticker shock; however, it does everything it says and as the time of this writing is the only device I’ve found that allows you to use a webcam with your ATEM Mini. This device includes support, but since mine worked, I can’t vouch for their customer service.

However, if you have a specific reason, you need to connect a USB webcam to your ATEM mini, or have a decent quality webcam lying around the studio and want to incorporate it into your ATEM Mini setup or another other HDMI in source, this is the device for you! It’s small, easy to set up, and receives firmware upgrades. What more could you ask for?

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Copy a MEGA65 .D81 disk image to a 3.5” floppy disk

2022-08-19T00:00:00+00:00

This short blog post is a supplement to a MEGA65 video I posted on 2022-08-19. The video shows how to update the Hibernated 1 The Director’s Cut 3.5” Floppy upon release of a new version that enhances game play or fixes bugs. It’s fine to load the .d81 disk image and play from the SD card on the MEGA65, but sometimes you need the floppy disk clicking to get that true retro computing experience on the MEGA65.

While I spend more time in the video showing how to copy a MEGA65 disk image to the internal 3.5” floppy, this blog post will provide a short written description of the process for quick reference. Let’s get started.

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: ‌Managing MEGA65 Media | Update 3.5” Floppy Files from a .D81

Video Errata

None as of 2022-08-19.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Steps to Copy an SD Card Disk Image to a 3.5” Floppy Disk

Below are the succinct steps:

Insert a 3.5” floppy disk into the MEGA65 floppy drive bay. The disk does not need to be formatted.
Use the MOUNT command to mount the 3.5” floppy disk to unit/drive 8 (the default)
Insert an SD Card into the MEGA65 that contains the disk image you want to copy to the 3.5” floppy disk.
Use the DIR U12 command to list the contents of the SD Card on the MEGA65.
Use the MOUNT <FILENAME>,U9 command to mount a disk image from the SD Card to unit/drive 9.
Use the BACKUP U9 TO U8 command to copy the SD card disk image contents to the 3.5” floppy disk. This process will take a long time and there’s no visual sign. Be patient.
Verify the contents on the 3.5” floppy disk using the DIR command.

You can now enjoy a more authentic experience by running software from a 3.5” floppy disk. This is one perk of MEGA65 ownership; the ability to choose between virtual and physical media. Expect the software to run slower from the floppy disk, but relish in the old school sounds!

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Hibernated 1: The Director’s Cut for MEGA65

2022-08-13T00:00:00+00:00

During a 2022-08-07 live stream, I opened the first boxed software released for the MEGA65, PolyPlay’s Hibernated 1 - Director’s Cut by Stefan Vogt. To see what’s included in the box, watch the companion video below. After the livestream, it became apparent I should create a companion blog post that provides background and a follow-up livestream to provide an example of game play.

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Videos
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Video
Introduction to Text Adventures
Introduction to Hibernated 1: The Director’s Cut
Start the Game
Gameplay
- Shortcuts
- Customize the Screen
Interacting with the Developers
More Game Play to Come
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Videos

Title: Unbox and Play Hibernated 1 (Director’s Cut) for MEGA65

Title: _Play Hibernated 1 (Director’s Cut) for MEGA65

Part 2 (Please Note: Periods of Audio Echo/Delay)_

Video Errata

[UPDATE: 2022-09-05] There’s an echo/delay to my audio in Part 2. During the livestream I couldn’t hear it but afterward, I determined that Chrome hadn’t released the audio from my stream when I closed the browser after testing the broadcast before going live.

Links Mentioned in this Video

Introduction to Text Adventures

Retro-computing fans know how to play a text adventure. Text adventure titles were popular back in the days of 8-bit computing. The 1977 Infocom text adventure Zork, inspired by Colossal Cave Adventure, put text adventures on the map, inspired two sequels, and created a market for other publishers to get in the game (pun intended).

![Zork Box](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/a/ac/Zork_I_box_art.jpg)

Text adventures are games of the mind and the worlds develop as you read the text presented on the screen. To play, you read about specific locations and objects. You move through the world and interact with objects, not with a joystick, but using keyboard commands. To move, use the command go south. Commands like use key or open door allow you to interact with the game objects. The inventory command display the items held. The more commands you learn, the more fun you have. Discovery is half of the fun—that is, understanding what commands and sequences the text adventure interpreter can parse.

Introduction to Hibernated 1: The Director’s Cut

Hibernated1 is a modern text adventure for retro systems from developer Stefan Vogt. Here’s how he describes the game:

Have you ever dreamed about a journey far beyond the known regions of the universe? Close to Alpha Centauri, Olivia Lund is on the trail of one of mankind’s greatest secrets and a thousand-year-old mystery. After nearly 20 years in hyper-sleep, she wakes up alone on her stranded ship, the Polaris-7. The artificial intelligence Io seems to be her only remaining friend now.

![Hibernated MEGA 65 Start Screen](https://img.itch.zone/aW1nLzYwMTY3MTIucG5n/315x250%23c/0ArqUH.png)

Hibernated 1 - This Place is Death (Director’s Cut) is an Infocom style interactive fiction game. It’s a complete rewrite of the classic, award-winning Hibernated game using Infocom’s Z-machine standard, with tons of additional narrative content and riddles. If Infocom had been asked to recreate the classic Hibernated, the Director’s Cut would have been the outcome.

I was not familiar with Hibernated 1. Released in 2018, Hibernated 1 is a sci fi story complete with space travel, hyper-sleep, AI, and aliens. This pushes my favorite buttons; retro-computing, text adventures, typing commands, and sci fi.

I may not have been familiar with Hibernated 1, but I played text adventures in the 1980s and loved every journey. And as someone who loves to draw, I created maps on grid paper of the adventures to document the areas and speed up navigation. I’m not sure the number of hours I spent playing these games, but can tell you, I had great late night adventures!

When the Hibernated 1 box arrived, I couldn’t wait to dive into the world and I knew I would share my first experience with the game during a livestream.

Start the Game

After I unboxed the game, I started my adventure and the community in chat wanted to assist! Below are the steps to start the game:

Mount the .d81 disk image from the SD card using the Freezer or insert the floppy into the MEGA65.
If you use the floppy, type the MOUNT command to attach the floppy to drive 8, unless you have the floppy set as your default media in the MEGA65 configuration.
To start Hibernated 1, type BOOT. A graphic intro screen will load.
Hit ⏎ or ␣, watch the loader do its work, and then begin your adventure.

The graphic screen intro is new to the director’s edition and takes full advantage of the MEGA65’s advanced graphics capabilities. It’s a nice touch and I look forward to future text adventures for the MEGA65 that include in-game images or even a full-fledge SCUMM-based point and click adventure game. It’s more work to make these conversions, but the result would be fabulous!

Gameplay

If you’ve played text adventures, you’ll know what to do as soon as the game loads; however, Hibernated 1 has differences I cover below and these differences are part of the Z-Machine interpreter, the same interpreter used for Zork. Z, Zork, get it?

NOTE: The Z-Machine interpreter is like the Doom engine. There’s a version for almost every device with a screen!

Instead of north, south, east, and west, the game instructions explain that these are not useful in space. Instead, use the nautical directions port, starboard, fore, and aft.

TIP: the commands north, south, east, and west work as do their shortcuts n, s, e, and w.

These nautical commands make exploration more immersive, fun, and space-like. It’s a nice touch but may confuse old text adventurers. Especially those without nautical experience. Ahoy, mate!

Shortcuts

During my journey into the world of Hibernated 1, I discovered many command shortcuts and the ability to combine commands. Below are the shortcuts I’ve found:

p = port
s = not starboard but south
a = aft
f = fore
i = inventory
l = look
q = quit
x = examine

To combine commands, use the , character. For instance, to move starboard twice enter, starboard,starboard or to move starboard and then examine a suit, s,x suit

If you have other shortcuts or tips, please type them in the comments below and I’ll update this post and provide proper attribution.

Customize the Screen

Bitshifter, who helped convert the Z-Machine engine to the MEGA65, saw my livestream and sent me an email:

Do you know that you can use the keys F1, F3, F5 and F7 for customizing the color scheme? When you leave the game with the “q” (quit) command, your color scheme will be saved in the CONFIG file and reloaded automatically when you run it next time.

The function keys below control the colors. Pressing each key cycles through the colors.

F1 (Text)
F3 (Top Bar)
F5 (Border)
F7 (Background)

When you have the preferred colors, use the in-game save command. As it saves the game progress, it will write the color values to the CONFIG.SEQ file. The next time you load the game, the software will restore the colors. To return to the default colors, delete the CONFIG.SEQ from the disk or disk image.

Interacting with the Developers

Stefan Vogt and Bitshifter put this package together. Stefan created the original story and gameplay, while Bitshifter put together the MEGA65 Z-Machine interpreter and loader. During my adventures, I ran into two issues.

Use of the save and restore functions were the first issue. These commands would cause the MEGA65 to hang. I emailed Stefan, and to my surprise he copied Bitshifter, a MEGA65 developer who I had interacted with many times in the MEGA65 Discord. Less than 24 hours later, Bitshifter identified the error, and issued a fix. He substituted a JSR machine code instruction to a JMP in the interpreter.

The next day I found another error. Using the restore command with a file name not found on the disk caused the software to crash and display a garbled screen of characters. I sent the error to Bitshifter and he issued another fix. Stefan then updated the disk image download. If you have the boxed software and want to update your floppy disk, I share this process in the livestream.

We squashed out two bugs in less than 24 hours! That’s almost unheard of with modern software companies. When was the last time you reported a bug that was corrected in under 24 hours? Bravo, Stefan and Bitshifter!

More Game Play to Come

Members of my community have asked if I will fire up another livestream and play more Hibernated 1. I’m considering it. I had a blast playing a text adventure 30+ years later. Including the folks in chat during the livestream made it more fun. I won’t finish the game during a livestream. That will take away the surprise for others and could harm sales of the game. But I am eager to once again enter the world of Hibernated 1 and look forward to the sequel coming later in 2022.

There’s more boxed software on the way. I reached out to PolyPlay and asked about the next MEGA65 title, Showdown - Collector’s Edition - MEGA65. Available for pre-order, PolyPlay said they would ship me a copy. When it arrives, I’ll unbox it and play during a livestream. Make sure you subscribe to my YouTube channel and hit that alert button to receive the notification!

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Run a MEGA65 on your Chromebook using Xemu

2022-08-01T00:00:00+00:00

In the post Run a MEGA65 on your Mac using Xemu, I show how to install the XEMU emulator for the MEGA65, xmega65, on a Mac. It’s time to stretch my operating system’s legs and install it on another popular system. No, I’m not installing on Windows but on an operating system that may surprise many; ChromeOS!

The process to install Xemu on ChromeOS is, unsurprisingly, similar to the Linux version since I’ll use a Linux container on ChromeOS. But don’t let that scare you. The Linux container feature is now out of beta and it has never been easier to install Linux apps on your Chromebook. Xemu is ready to download as an easy to install .deb file for Intel-based ChromeOS devices. If you have an ARM-based ChromeOS device, I have you covered. It is a more involved process, but if you follow my steps closely, you will have the MEGA65 emulator up and running in no time. Let’s get started!

Table of Contents
Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
Identify ChomeOS Device Processor
Create a Linux Container
Share the Downloads Folder with Linux Container
Install Xemu on ChromeOS Intel
- Download and Install Xemu on Chrome OS Intel
- Start xmega65 on ChromeOS Intel
Install Xemu on ChromeOS ARM
- Build and Install an XEMU .deb File for Chrome OS ARM
- Build the xmega65 Emulator Only for ChromeOS ARM
  - Start xmega65 on ChromeOS ARM
  - Create a Launcher Entry
Download the MEGA65 ROM
Update Files on SD card Image
Using xmega65
Limitations
What’s Next?
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Run a MEGA65 on your Chromebook in a Linux Container

Video Errata

2022-08-02:

New recommendation from Gurcé in the Start xmega65 on ChromeOS ARM section.
Developer Deft let me know that the C65 ROMs are available in the FREE version of Cloanto’s C64 Forever package!

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Identify ChomeOS Device Processor

If you are not sure if you have an Intel or ARM processor in your Chromebook, download Cog - System Info Viewer from the ChromeOS app store. Run to view the specifications of your device. Look under the second option, Platform to identify the processor.

Create a Linux Container

The process to create a Linux Container is the same for both Intel and ARM based ChromeOS devices and is necessary to install Linux apps on ChromeOS. The default ChromeOS container is a Debian distribution and since the Xemu package for Linux is based on Ubuntu, and Ubuntu is based on Debian, this allows Xemu to run on ChromeOS. Below are the steps to set up a Linux container on ChromeOS.

Use the Launcher and open the Settings app.
Use the settings search and type Linux. The Turn on option will appear.
Select the Turn On option.
Select Enable Linux. ChromeOS will create a Linux container and download the required files to install a Debian distribution.
Open the Launcher.
Select the newly created Linux Group.
Select the new Terminal entry. A terminal window will load. We will use this window several times to install the MEGA65 emulator.

The Linux container includes other options; however, they are beyond this post and we don’t need to change the default.

By default and for security, ChromeOS folders, including the Downloads folder, are not available to the Linux containers. You must share them. This is an easy process.

Open the ChromeOS Files application.
Right-click on the Download folders in the left-hand quick access area and a menu will appear.
Select the Share with Linux option.

The Linux container can now access the contents of Downloads folder, but not in an easy to find location. We’ll locate the directory when we load the ROM file.

Install Xemu on ChromeOS Intel

With a Linux container created and a folder shared on ChromeOS Intel, Xemu installation is a breeze when you use a .deb installation file.

Download and Install Xemu on Chrome OS Intel

To install Xemu, use the steps below:

Visit the Xemu page. On the page, you will find two headings; Stable (“master” branch) releases and The ‘future next stable’ still unstable (“next” branch) builds.
Scroll down to the header The ‘future next stable’ still unstable (“next” branch) builds.
Click the Ubuntu Linux 20.04 64-bit DEB package option to download the xemu_current_amd64.deb file.
Open the Downloads folder using the ChromeOS File application and locate the .deb file.
Double-click the .deb file. A dialog box will prompt to install the application.
Click the INSTALL button.

With Xemu installed, we can now run it for the first time; however, don’t get excited yet! We have some work ahead.

Start xmega65 on ChromeOS Intel

Xemu installs several new entries in the Launcher. Other options include additional Commodore emulators. One interesting emulator is the Commodore LCD computer that was never released.

Double-click the xmega65 option. The application will start. The application window is tiny. Resize the window until it suits you. Prompts will ask you to make several decisions. I show these in the companion video but always use the default options OK and YES the first time you open the emulator.

We are now ready to install a ROM. Skip down to the Download the MEGA65 ROM section.

Install Xemu on ChromeOS ARM

There are two options to install Xemu on ChromeOS devices that use an ARM processor. We can build a machine specific .deb file and install as shown previously or we can build just the xmega65 emulator. The last option also requires us to tweak our system and create our own Launcher option.

Both solutions have their pluses and minuses. You will need to decide which is best for you. Personally, I only build the xmega65 emulator and create my own Launcher option.

Before we install using either option, we must first install required dependencies:

Using the Launcher, load the Terminal application.
Follow the series of Terminal commands below.

NOTE: Xemu includes several emulators; however, this process will only compile the MEGA65 emulator xmega65.

sudo apt update
sudo apt install git build-essential libsdl2-dev libgtk-3-dev libreadline-dev nano

Next, clone the Xemu GitHub repository using the commands below:

cd ~
git clone https://github.com/lgblgblgb/xemu.git

We will use these dependencies and the repository for both ChromeOS ARM options. Let’s start by building our own custom .deb install file.

Build and Install an XEMU `.deb` File for Chrome OS ARM

Use the Terminal commands below to create a .deb file:

cd ~/xemu
make deb

The process will take time, but in the end you will have a .deb in the ~/build/bin directory. Move the file to the home directory using the command below:

mv xemu_20220613133247_arm64.deb ~

Note the name of your file may be different with the date string based on the version of the Xemu repository.

The installation file is now accessible using the ChromeOS Files application. Install it using the steps below:

Open the Files application.
Choose Linux Files from the left-hand bookmarks. The installation file will appear.
Right-click on the file.
Choose the _Install with Linux Option.
Click the Install button. The file will install all Xemu emulators and place icons in the ChromeOS Launcher.
Select xmega65 from the Launcher to load the MEGA65 emulator.

You are now ready to install a ROM. Skip down to the Download the MEGA65 ROM section.

Build the xmega65 Emulator Only for ChromeOS ARM

If you want the xmega65 emulator, and not all Xemu emulators, use the Terminal commands below:

cd ~
make targets/mega65

The xmega65 is compiled and ready to run on the ARM ChromeOS device.

NOTE: You can make a .deb from this directory. Use the command make targets/mega65 deb.

Start xmega65 on ChromeOS ARM

In the Terminal use the command below to start xmega65:

./xemu/build/bin/xmega65.native

The emulator will start. If the window is too small, resize it. Prompts will ask you to make several decisions. I show these in the companion video but always use the default options OK and YES the first time you open the emulator.

Close the emulator. We make things easier for future launching and create a Launcher item.

Create a Launcher Entry

To launch xmega65 from anywhere within the Terminal, move the xmega65.native file to the bin folder using the command below:

sudo mv ~/xemu/build/bin/xmega65.native /bin/xmega65

</hr>

Developer and retroCombs supporter, Gurcé, made an excellent recommendation on my Discord Channel:

I had a thought for an alternate approach that might be worth sharing: sudo mv ~/xemu/build/bin/xmega65.native /bin/xmega65

As an alternative to this approach, you can try use a symbolic link (ln -s from to) instead: sudo ln -s /home/stevencombs/xemu/build/bin/xmega65.native /bin/xmega65

This has the advantage that if you ever want to grab the latest version of xemu from github, you’ll just need to do: git pull and then a make -C targets/mega65

(no need to do an extra mv step, as the symbolic link still points to your latest built binary)

</hr>

You can now launch the emulator anywhere within the Terminal using the simple command, xmega65.

Running xmega65 from the Terminal may not be everyone’s cup of tea. Installation on an Intel device using a .deb file automatically creates a Launcher entry. On ARM systems, this is not the case (for now). We can create a Launcher entry using the steps below:

Enter the command mkdir ~/.local/share/applications to create a folder to contain a Linux .desktop file.
Enter the command nano ~/.local/share/applications/xmega65.desktop. The nano text editor will load.

Enter the following into the editor window:

 [Desktop Entry]
 Name=xmega65
 Exec=xmega65
 Terminal=false
 Type=Application

Tap CTRL + X to exit and save the file. A new xemga65 Launcher entry will appear in the Linux group.
Click it to load xmega65.

With the MEGA65 emulator installed and a Launcher entry created, it is time to install a ROM and start using the MEGA65 emulator.

Download the MEGA65 ROM

With xmega65 installed on both Intel and ARM processor ChromeOS devices, I can now merge the instructions.

Don’t let the glowing and text-filled xmega65 screen scare you. We don’t need to do anything other than install a ROM file from the MEGA65 FilesHost.

I’ve covered this in other posts and videos, but there is a closed ROM and an open ROM. The closed ROM is for those who own a MEGA65 Dev Kit or MEGA65. I’ll show that one in my example since I own both. If you don’t own either, you can legally download an original C65 ROM from the free version of the C64Forever Cloanto package. You can then patch it using the tools on the FileHost. I document this process in my Patch the Original Commodore 65 ROM for the MEGA65, Xemu, Dev Kit, or Nexys4 post and video.

If you have access, you can download the closed ROM here. On ChromeOS, the file will download directly to your Downloads folder.

Update Files on SD card Image

To load the ROM, follow the steps below:

Right-click anywhere in the xmega65 application. A menu, like the one shown below from the Mac version, will appear:
Select Disks | SD-card | Update files on SD Image. A warning dialog will ask, “Use the previously installed ROM?”
Select the No option. A file selection dialog box will appear.
Select the ROM file downloaded previously and click OK. A dialog box will appear to verify an update to the contents of the SD card image.
Click the OK button. The emulator will reset with the new ROM.

When the MEGA65 team releases new ROMs, use this same technique to update the emulator.

Using xmega65

I won’t go into all the features of the emulator; however, below are a three things to get you started.

Type INFO at the prompt.
Try your own hello world program using the code below:
```
 10 PRINT "HELLO WORLD ";
 20 GOTO 10
```
Download my MEGA65 Colors BASIC Demo .D81 image file from the FileHost to the Downloads folder. Mount the image using the xmega65 menu. List the contents using the DIR command and then use the / followed by ⏎ to run the program on the disk. No need to clean up the listing after the / character. The MEGA65 ROM takes care of that for you.

Want more? Time to begin your MEGA65 journey and you can start with my MEGA65 resource page.

Limitations

Since the developer does not support Xemu on ChromeOS, you need to know about these limitations:

~~I’ve not yet been able to get sound to work reliably. All settings in the emulator for sound are on and correct. A cursory online search leads me to believe this is not unique to XEMU.~~ As of 2022-08-03, sound works. I cannot duplicate the issue with sounds shown in the video.
In the Mac version of XEMU, I can drag and drop .d81 or .prg files from the Finder to XEMU to load them. This is not working from the ChromeOS files app to the XEMU running in the Linux container and not a surprise. I suspect that if I load a file manager in the Linux container, this will work. If someone gives this a try, or if I do, I’ll update this blog post.
With other XEMU or Commodore emulator installs, I can plug in a THEC64 Joystick and everything works. Not with Chrome OS on Linux. The container does not recognize the USB device as an option I can allow access. It recognizes the SD card reader built into the USB hub, but not the controller plugged into the hub. I checked to see if TheC64 Joystick was working on the Chromebook with browser based Gamepad Tester and everything checked out. I’ll continue to research this one further.
If you are new to Commodore computer emulators, you may notice that several keys don’t match their position on the ChromeOS keyboard and there are keyboard combinations that are unavailable. Xmega65 uses a positional keyboard configuration based on an extended PC keyboard layout. Unless you have an extended ChromeOS keyboard, you will find you can’t enter certain symbols. Xemu can overcome this limitation by modifying a keyboard.cfg file. I’ll continue to work on this file to create something that makes using the ChromeOS keyboard functional and enjoyable. If anyone else wants to get ahead of me on this project, let me know.

I’ll continue to research all these important quirks to make using the Xemu emulator, _xmega65, on Chrome OS easier, more productive, and fun. Make sure you follow the blog and and subscribe to the channel.

What’s Next?

Chromebook devices are more popular than ever and now you can wow your friends and family by running the MEGA65 emulator, a modern retro computer recreation, on the device you use every day. Along this journey, you learned much more about using Linux containers to expand the capabilities of your ChromeOS device.

Earlier, I list three ways you can get started with the emulator; however, below are two additional recommendations from my blog and channel:

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

LIFEGOO Precision Screwdriver Set

2022-07-10T00:00:00+00:00

The friendly folks over at LIFEGOO, thanks Angus, sent over their Mini Electric Screwdriver, LIFEGOO Precision Screwdriver Set with 48 Magnetic Precision Bits & LED Light & Magnetic Mat, Cordless Electric Screwdriver Kit for Phone Watch Camera Laptop (62 In 1) that’s sold on Amazon. I previously took a look at the iFu precision power screwdriver and my guess is they saw that video and wanted me to take a stab at their version.

_{Image courtesy of LIFEGOO and Amazon}

In this blog post and companion video, I compare the iFu to the LIFEGOO and then provide thoughts and recommendations. Can this precision power screwdriver help keep your retro-devices working? Let’s find out.

Support the Blog and Channel

Check out the supporters page to learn about my amazing supporters and how you can join our community.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: LIFEGOO -vs- iFu Precision Power Screwdriver to open a LINKFOR Handheld Gaming Device

Video Errata

None as of 2022-07-10.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

LIFEGOO on Amazon - All their electronic and electronic repair products.
LIFEGOO Precision Power Screwdriver Set - Save 10% as of 2022-07-10 by clicking the coupon offering.
iFu Precision Power Screwdriver Set - Because it holds all the accessories, you might find this works better for you.
LINKFOR Handheld Retro Gaming - At $33 this thing is a steal! I don’t understand why it gets a 3.5 star rating. More on this device in the Additional Thoughts below.

Additional Thoughts

The LINKFOR Handheld Retro Gaming System runs OpenDingux. I’m not familiar with this platform and the extra SD Card on the mother board intrigues me. I need to look at the contents of the external SD card, but could it be that the OpenDingux operating system is on that card and the external card only hosts the ROMs? Likely. Sounds like a good topic for another video or livestream to see if we can upgrade the OS and add other systems. On the LINKFOR, the Commodore emulator is missing. We can’t have that now, can we?
Another thing I want to do is clean up the games on the LINKFOR. There are too many. I’d like to get it down to a manageable list of the games I want to take on the go.
While this blog post is not a review of the LINKFOR, I recommend it. At $33, and if we can hack it, this device is a great bargain. The games included operate without a hitch and I don’t understand why it has a 3.5 star review. I don’t believe everyone understands what it is and its capabilities.
This will not be the only screwdriver you use. I recommend you give the LIFEGOO manual set a look. While I don’t own this set, at $20, it appears to be a good deal.
In the video, I don’t spend a lot of time talking about the bits. There’s a ton of them and the extra long bits are what I was looking for. The iFu included a nice set of bits, but none that are extra long. For the repairs I make, these are a necessity.
Putting the extra components into the larger white box is a workable solution, but I’m going to store them in a small toolbox where the tools will reside with the many duplicates that are accumulating.
The screwdriver locks into place when not activated and you can use it like a manual screwdriver; however, it will be awkward, but this is the way I use it and love it.
In the video I mention weight. After the research, I found the weight is 2 ounces. That’s not bad and doesn’t feel heavy.
I don’t work on watches and small devices. I use this for retro-computing and gaming related tasks. For that use, this device is A-OKAY!
I thought the iFu was good enough but am glad I could try out the LIFEGOO. While the build quality for both screwdrivers is comparable, the LIFEGOO presentation, with that slick aluminum clicking case and packaging, along with the lower cost and selection of long bits, makes the LIFEGOO the best choice. I recommend for anyone trying to help keep those retro computers and recreations working.
Again, my thanks to LIFEGOO for sending over the set for a review and not requiring me to say anything in particular. I’ll continue to use this set and we’ll see if it holds up. You will see it appear in future videos.

Have questions about any of the devices listed? Drop them in the comments and I’ll answer or add the answer to this blog post.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Master the MEGA65 Keyboard Addendum

2022-07-01T00:00:00+00:00

My Master the MEGA65 Keyboard created a lot of conversation. I knew during the creation of that content that I was going to miss, or mis-explain, concepts and I was ready for the comments and suggestions to roll in. The MEGA65 community didn’t let me down and in this blog post and companion video, I’ve captured the best additions to further our knowledge of the MEGA65 and continue to build a mastery of the keyboard.

I want to thank everyone who contributed to this addendum and I’ve done my best to give proper attribution and with a first name or handle. If you’d like your entire name listed, along with a link, or if I missed a recommendation, please drop me an email and I’ll correct on this blog post.

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
Additional Keyboard Mastery Skills
Conclusion
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

You can now support me via my Buy Me A Coffee page with a onetime activity or become a full member via my fun Commodore inspired membership levels. When you support the channel, you get additional content and fun extras. Check out the membership levels to learn more.

Thank you to these members for supporting me at the C128 and MEGA65 level; making them retroCombs (executive) producers:

Producers:

Jamie’s Hack Shack
The Lovely Accountant

Executive Producers:

Companion YouTube Video

Title: ‌Master the MEGA65 Keyboard Addendum

Video Errata

None as of 2022-07-01.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Additional Keyboard Mastery Skills

Let’s jump right into the addendum, starting with a way to boot to different ROM versions.

Boot Various ROMs

I showed how to boot to a specific core, but Anton shared you can boot to one of ten ROMs. The key to this trick is to name the ROMs with the format MEGA65#.ROM with # a value from 1 to 0.

Here’s an example:

Load the most current ROM and name it MEGA65.ROM
Load the first C65 ROM (911001) and name it MEGA651.ROM
Load the second C65 ROM (911210) and name it MEGA652.ROM
Load the Open ROM and name it MEGA653.ROM
Hold the 1, 2, or 3 key while you power up the MEGA65 to boot the different ROM.

NOTE: Remember that the original C65 ROMs are owned by Cloanto. If you own a DevKit or a MEGA65, you have rights to the ROM; however, if you don’t, you can purchase them inexpensively ($10 USD) as part of Cloanto’s C64 Forever.

This is handy if you want a nostalgic experience to run the original C65 ROMs or to test various MEGA65 ROMs like the Open ROM.

SHIFT + RETURN

Deft reminded me of a feature I use all the time but failed to mention in the previous video. How to enter a line of text and then press enter to jump the next line. Instead of pressing ENTER, press SHIFT + RETURN and the MEGA65 won’t parse the line.

This is hand for demonstrations where you want to type instructions or greetings on the screen, move to the next line, and not receive a syntax error.

HELP

Paul reminded me of another tap on the keyboard I use but failed to include. I mentioned in the video that the HELP key did nothing. That was wrong!

Use the HELP key to identify a line of code with a syntax error. When a BASIC program syntax error occurs, press the HELP key and the MEGA65 will list the first line with an error.

This key is indispensable during BASIC programming sessions.

↑ Key

Bit Shifter watched the last video and noted my curiosity about why the ↑ key does nothing beside input an up arrow and my suggestion that it do something useful.

He went to work and made it more useful. In the latest MEGA65.ROM, you can now use the key to RUN a file on a disk. For example; instead of typing:

RUN "FILENAME"

You can now save keystrokes and type:

↑ "FILENAME"

This makes it a great addition to the / "FILENAME" command, which is equivalent to LOAD "FILENAME" and remember, for both examples, the closed quotation mark is optional; saving even more keystrokes. Thanks Bit Shifter!

CAPS LOCK

Deft shared that CAPS LOCK super power (ramping the processor speed to 40 Mhz) works in C64 mode.

This is useful when listing long C64 BASIC programs or loading software from legacy devices.

Window Mode

When using window mode (ESC + T) There are two ways to exit. I mentioned the first option in the previous video.

RUN/STOP + RESTORE
Press HOME twice

I’m learning that windows can be handy and am going to explore them in more detail.

Function Keys

Dan came in with the next two recommendations regarding function keys, but before I share his tips, let me add another:

You can toggle function key operation with these two commands: KEY ON to enable function keys and KEY OFF to disable function keys. You can use this in either immediate mode or in BASIC. The command KEY alone will list the function key assignments as shown below:

KEY 1,CHR$(27)+"X"
KEY 2,CHR$(27)+"@"
KEY 3,"DIR"+CHR$(13)
KEY 4,"DIR "+CHR$(34)+"*=PRG"+CHR$(34)+CHR$(13)
KEY 5,"{f10}"
KEY 6,"KEY6"+CHR$(141)
KEY 7,"{f12}"
KEY 8,"MONITOR"+CHR$(13)
KEY 9,"{f9}"
KEY 10,"KEY10"+CHR$(141)
KEY 11,"{f11}"
KEY 12,"KEY12"+CHR$(141)
KEY 13,CHR$(27)+"O"
KEY 14,"{inst}"+CHR$(27)+"O"
KEY 15,"HELP"+CHR$(13)
KEY 16,"RUN "+CHR$(34)+"*"+CHR$(34)+CHR$(13)

This is where Dan’s tip comes in. The sixteen function keys (F1-F14, HELP, and Shift + RUN) are programmable using the KEY command. In my list taken from the XEMU emulator, there’s a mix of PETSCII control codes, shown between the { and }, and CHR$ codes. Below is a screen capture of that listing that shows the PETSCII characters:

CHR$ codes don’t have a PETSCII equivalent and cannot appear inside a quote. This listed include:

27 = Escape
13 = Return
34 = Double Quote
141 = Line Feed (Does Not Parse the Command)

In my original video I pondered, why do F6, F10, and F12 just print “KEY6” “KEY10” or “KEY12”? Dan suggests this is a way of setting up a KEY command to make modifications. Cursor up to and type after to define each one. As an example, use the KEY command to list the functions and then scroll up to the F6 entry and replace with:

KEY6,"RETROCOMBS" followed by ENTER

When you press F6, the MEGA65 will now display RETROCOMBS. And we all want our MEGA65’s to print RETROCOMBS? Don’t we?

While not part of this video, you can save these modifications to the AUTOBOOT.C65 file on a disk or disk image and they will load automatically when you reset or power cycle the MEGA65.

Save Program

If you pressed the RESET button and then realize that you forgot to save your BASIC program, no need to panic. Type NEW RESTORE. Important to note that this will not work if you use an AUTOBOOT.C65 program since that will overwrite the BASIC program in memory.

Conclusion

I suspect there are other things I missed. If there are, post them in the comments and if enough of you continue to provide great tips, I might consider another addendum. With the speed at which developers add features, this may be a necessity.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Unboxing and First Use of the Retro Game TheA500 Mini

2022-06-24T00:00:00+00:00

On 2022-06-12, I fired up the ATEM mini Extreme Iso for an unboxing livestream of Retro Games’ TheA500 Mini. I was hesitant because my device arrived long after those on the other side of the pond, and more popular YouTubers in the United States received their regular and complimentary shipments. What could I add to the conversation? I asked my viewers, and they were vocal, stream it and we will join. I did, and we had a blast. We even had a few new folks join the chat and one even became a new member. Welcome, Neil!

In this companion blog post, I’ll share updates and two videos. The first video is a new edit that cuts about 50% of the livestream and adds extra content. The second link is to the entire livestream that’s available, without ads, to my channel members at all levels and for a minimal fee for non-supporters.

Support the Blog and Channel

Thank you to these members for supporting me at the C128 and MEGA65 level; making them retroCombs (executive) producers:

Producers:

Jamie’s Hack Shack
The Lovely Accountant

Executive Producers:

Boba Fett
Mislav Krleža
Mindrail

Companion YouTube Videos

Title: Unboxing and First Play of Retro Games’ TheA500 Mini

Below is an edit of the original 2022-06-12 livestream that includes additional content. In the video, I unbox and use TheA500 Mini for the first time.

For the full unedited version, and without ads, check out this link.

Video Errata

None as of 2022-06-24.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Additional Thoughts

It is always difficult to cut out portions of the original livestream; however, folks say they love my edits since they get to the point, correct mistakes, and I include additional content. Hope you like this one too.
This is my first 16-bit related retro computing content. I’m not yet sure I want to spend time with the Amiga as a regular feature of the channel. Heck, I don’t even have an original Amiga in my collection; unless someone wants to send me one!
It is interesting to the compare the MEGA65 and the Amiga. As I look at the games TheA500 Mini includes and the capabilities of the MEGA65, my guess is we can port many of them to the speedier 8-bit C65 recreation. There are many developers in the MEGA65 community who are fans of the Amiga. Can’t wait to see what games they create.
A viewer shared with me (Thanks, Mark!) instructions to install the entire Amiga Workbench and OS on TheA500 Mini. It is on my list of things to do and while I’ll likely not share that process (since the Kickstart ROMs and OS are currently under license), you might see it pop up in future videos or as demos running during livestreams.
I like TheMouse the more I use it. I recommend even if you don’t purchase TheA500 Mini, you pick up a TheMouse. This recreation with a USB connector will make a great addition to an emulator like UAE. I’m considering picking up an extra myself for my MEGA65 using a mouSTer.
When I first learned about TheA500 mini, I understood it came with a controller that resembled a CD32 controller. I did not own a CD32 and did research to see the what one looked like. I was shocked to see that TheA500 controller isn’t anything like the CD32 controller. Oh, sure, it has a design familiarity, but that’s all. The CD32 includes a disk controller on the left and is longer. I’m not disappointed, but I’m amazed that folks online keep referring to it as a similar controller. They aren’t!
I’m eager to spend more time with this device. There’s a lot to like, but one thing not to like is the lack of a working keyboard. On the C64 Mini, this wasn’t an issue. Most games did not extensively use the keyboard; however, when the Amiga arrived, using the keyboard for games became more commonplace. My demo of F-16 Combat Pilot is an excellent example of a game that will be more enjoyable with a working keyboard. I could connect a USB keyboard, but then the gets to my entire argument that unless you have a true keyboard with the computer’s original layout, you have an exercise in frustration. Having typed that, I do plan to connect a USB keyboard.
I’m not at all familiar with WHDLoad. I need to understand how to pack software using this format.
The latest firmware upgrade provides ADF support, or disk image support. That’s another feature I need to look into.
I’m curious to see what future firmware updates will bring. Any ideas? Drop them in the comments below.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Connect the MEGA65 to a Mac using the DSD USB to TTL Adapter

2022-06-04T00:00:00+00:00

A feature of the MEGA65 DevKit I miss with the production MEGA65 is the ability to “out-of-the-box” connect it to my Mac and use tools like M65 Connect or the command-line tools M65 or MEGA65_FTP. These tools allow me to manage the internal SD card on my MEGA65 DevKit with my Mac without removing the SD card from the MEGA65 and provide other “fascinating tools.” More on those tools later.

For the production MEGA65, these features are available if you can locate a Trenz TE0790-03 JTAG adapter; however, these have a 52-week wait and are pricey at $50 plus shipping.

In this blog post and companion video, I will show how to get access to those tools by connecting the $12 DSD TECH USB to TTL Serial Adapter with FTDI FT232RL between a Mac mini and the MEGA65. The hardware portion of this blog post works for Linux and Windows as does the use of the tools. The only difference is how to install the tools.

**!!!WARNING!!!** This project requires you to remove the top of the MEGA65 and connect an external device to the MEGA65. While the risk is low, I do not take responsibility for your MEGA65.

With the disclaimer out of the way, let’s get started.

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video (COMING SOON)
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
Unbox the Adapter
Install the Adapter on the MEGA65
Connect the MEGA65 to a MAC using the Adapter
Using M65 Connect
Using Command-Line Tools
- m65.osx
- mega65_ftp.osx
Conclusion
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Thank you to these members for supporting me at the C128 and MEGA65 level; making them retroCombs (executive) producers:

Producers:

Jamie’s Hack Shack
The Lovely Accountant

Executive Producers:

Companion YouTube Video (COMING SOON)

Title: Connect the MEGA65 to a Mac using a DSD USB to TTL Adapter

In the video below, I install connect the DSD TECH USB to TTL Serial Adapter with FTDI FT232RL between my MEGA65 and Mac mini.

Video Errata

None as of 2022-06-04.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Unbox the Adapter

The DSD TECH USB to TTL Serial Adapter with FTDI FT232RL box includes the three items necessary for this install and no soldering required!

Instruction manual in various languages (but my instructions replace this document)
Six strand header jumper wire connector (if you mess these up, click here)
USB to TTL serial adapter

The adapter includes a transparent cover, 12 month warranty, is sturdy, and includes indicators LEDs such as power, transmit and receive. The quality is high given the cost is $13.00 USD.

Install the Adapter on the MEGA65

Below is an image of the pin-outs to connect the adapter to the MEGA65. Connections are made by pressing both female ends of the cable onto the header pins.

I use three of the six wires from the loose end of the connector; the black (GND), green (TXD), and blue (RXD). The rest I bend back away from the cable. The six pin connector plugs directly into the adapter. Plug the red wire to the VCC connector to properly orient the connector.

Route the cable through the cartridge port. This likely won’t be a long-term solution. We could use one of the punch outs, but I’m not ready to modify my case. It still has that new case smell! Below is an image of the adapter connected to the MEGA65.

It would be optimal to determine a way to add a port on the MEGA65 without using any of the breakouts. Have ideas? Drop a comment below.

Connect the MEGA65 to a MAC using the Adapter

**WARNING!**

Before connecting the adapter to the MEGA65, the adapter MUST be set to 3.3 volts. There is a jumper on the device (see image below) to switch between 3.3 and 5 volts. My device came with the jumper on the correct setting but **DOUBLE-CHECK as using the device with 5 volts could damage the MEGA65.**

Connect the adapter to a USB A port on the Mac. I have an extended USB port available close to the MEGA65, but you might need to use a USB Extension Cable. Below is my connection.

It’s not great final solution; but it works.

Using M65 Connect

You can download M65 Connect from the MEGA65 FileHost. Versions are available for Mac, Linux, and Windows.

In the companion video, I show the use of M65 Connect to:

Determine the serial port
Connect the adapter to the MEGA65
Take a screenshot
Type in a line of code using the Mac keyboard
View the contents of the MEGA65 internal SD card
Copy a .d81 image to the SD card

There’s much more you can do with this app, but that’s for another video; if there’s interest.

Using Command-Line Tools

My blog post, Build MEGA65 Tools on MacOS X (Intel and M1) | And an intro to the MEGA65 community, provides the instructions you need to install the MEGA65 command-line tools on your Intel and M1 Mac.

Full disclosure; I am not a power user of the command-line tools but am learning its many uses. I show the following using the command-line tools but if you have other use cases, post them in the comments.

m65.osx

Send a line of code to the MEGA65 using:

./m65.osx -l /dev/<USB#> -T '10 1+1' - where <USB#> is the device address.
Continuously type using the Mac’s keyboard:

m65 -l /dev/<USB#> -t -

mega65_ftp.osx

To use the MEGA65 FTP tools, you must first start the service using ./mega65_ftp.osx -l /dev/USB#. A new prompt will appear to interact with the MEGA65. Below are examples.

List the contents of the internal SD card using the dir command.
List files on the FileHost and download my MEGA65 Color Palette BASIC Program from the FileHost directly to the internal SD Card using:
```
 fh
 fhget 96
```
Use the exit command to quit and close the MEGA65 FTP connection.

Conclusion

Adding this adapter is a MUST if you want to get the most out of your MEGA65. It does come with a modicum of risk since you have to open the MEGA65 and plug in wires, but the result is worth it. Do yourself a favor, order one now, and start using the tools. It’s a whole new world of MEGA65 experiences.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Master the MEGA65 Keyboard

2022-05-28T00:00:00+00:00

I love a good keyboard shortcut and consider myself a Mac shortcut connoisseur. One of the fun features of the MEGA65 is the keyboard; both the hardware and the functionality. In this blog post and companion video, I cover the keyboard layout, functions, and shortcuts you need to master the MEGA65 keyboard. Time to learn how to be a keyboard NINJA on the MEGA65.

While you might think advanced keyboard combinations started with the MEGA65, many of them have their routes back to the original PET, refined as part of the Plus/4 and C128, and optimized by the MEGA65 team. There’s a fun keyboard history that I won’t cover, that you should not ignore. I’ve used a Commodore keyboard since the early 1980s and it was fun to revisit those keystrokes with my MEGA65 DevKit.

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
- Executive Producers
- Producers
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
INFO Command
Keyboard Layout
Command Keys
- Return
- Shift
- SHIFT LOCK
- CAPS LOCK
- ALT
- CTRL
- About MEGA65 Colors
- MEGA
- RUN/STOP
- RESTORE
- Cursor Keys
- Arrow Keys
- INST/DEL
- CLR/HOME
- NO SCROLL
Function/HELP (F15/16) Keys
ESC Codes
Booting Cores
Conclusion
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Thank you to these members for supporting me at the C128 level; making them retroCombs producers:

Executive Producers

Boba Fett
Mislav Krleža
mindrail **!!NEW!!**

Producers

Jamie’s Hack Shack
The Lovely Accountant

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Master the MEGA65 Keyboard | MEGA-sized retroCombs Edition

In the video below, I cover all aspects of the MEGA65 keyboard.

Video Errata

[UPDATE: 2022-05-28] I mention that the HELP function key doesn’t do anything and that’s not accurate. If you run into a syntax error when you run a BASIC program, press the HELP key and the BASIC 65 will display the first line of code with the error. The HELP command serves the same function.

[UPDATE: 2022-05-28] Carsten Lervad shares the following about the “bell ringing” routine:

Try typing “PRINT CHR$(7)” on an C128 or the MEGA65. I doubt it works on a C64. It is not the keyboard triggering the bell sound, but the Console Interpreter (or Editor in Commodore terminology) receiving and translating the CHR$(7) into the bell sound. In the same way, the Console/Editor doesn’t know whether the CHR$(13) comes from pressing Return or CTRL+M… or even from some other source, like say “force”-feeding keystrokes into the keyboard buffer.

[UPDATE: 2022-05-28] John Guillory shares:

The back arrow was sometimes used as an escape key to backup to the previous menu, being that the c64 didn’t have an escape key.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

`INFO` Command

Before we master the keyboard, here’s a tip. There’s a command users will find useful:

INFO This command presents the following results:

INFO:         DATA BYTES  USED /  FREE
--------------------------------------
ROM-V   920333   PROGRAM:    0 / 55037
SPEED   40 MHZ   SCALARS:    8 /  1464
BANK4 --------   STRINGS:    0 / 54980
BANK5 --------   ARRAYS :    0 / 54980

This is handy when you need quick info on these settings.

Keyboard Layout

The layout of the keys on the MEGA65 keyboard is true to the layout found on the proposed Commodore 65 and therefore is a natural evolution of the keyboards around on the PET, VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128. It includes popular keys in familiar locations found on these previous computers along with additional keys that functionality to both the MEGA65 hardware and software. Below is an image of the keyboard layout.

The first thing you will notice, if you are new to Commodore computers, is the location for many common keys such as ( ) " ' @ * and others are not the same as a modern Mac or PC keyboards. These changes will throw off your muscle memory. But don’t despair, your fingers will get use to the arrangement and after a while, even swapping back and forth isn’t confusing. Your brain will adjust. If you were an original Commodore computer users, you’ll be surprised how familiar and nostalgic the MEGA65 keyboard feels.

The alpha-numeric keys are in the standard QWERTY layout; however, there are keys you won’t find on a modern keyboard.

Command Keys

There are several command keys on the MEGA65. Many of these will be familiar and others are new (or old). Users with Commodore computer experience will feel right at home and enjoy the new keys and features the MEGA65 brings to the retro-computing experience. We will start with the most basic of command keys, RETURN.

Return

In the words of Jim Butterfield from his Commodore 64 Training Video, the RETURN tells the computer to “DO IT.” That can mean many things on the MEGA65 such as:

Save a BASIC program line into memory.
Activate an immediate mode command.
Display incorrect syntax error messages.
Accept program data input.
Accept program default data.
Produce a carriage return.

Software developers can program this key for other uses.

Shift

There are two SHIFT keys, one on the left and one on the right. These keystrokes are called Shifted Codes and, while similar to their modern counterparts, they have MEGA65 specific functions.

Holding the SHIFT key and tapping a key with two front graphics will produce the right graphic. When the MEGA65 is in lowercase mode, holding SHIFT and an alpha character displays the uppercase version. Holding SHIFT and a numeric/symbol key will produce the alternate character displayed on the key.

Holding SHIFT with a function key will activate the second function on the key. As an example, to use F2, hold SHIFT + F1.

SHIFT LOCK

The MEGA65 includes a SHIFT LOCK key with an embedded LED and locking switch. Press SHIFT LOCK when it is necessary to type many uppercase characters. While active, you no longer have to press the SHIFT key to activate shifted characters. This includes graphic characters.

CAPS LOCK

This key is like the SHIFT LOCK and works with alpha keys to produce capital letters.

CAPS LOCK on the MEGA65 has a superpower. Press and hold the CAPS LOCK to force the processor to run at 40 MHz. This is handy when you need to speed up the operation of a BASIC program temporarily or speed load a program from a disk image.

ALT

The ALT key is a modifier key that software developers can use to add functionality to their software.

Press and hold ALT while booting the MEGA65 to enter the MEGA65 Configuration Utility as shown in the image below:

This key is not available in Commodore 64 mode.

CTRL

The CTRL key is a modifier key. These keystrokes are called Control Codes. Holding the CTRL key and tapping a key in the table below will produce the result in the list:

CTRL	Function
1	Color Black
2	Color White
3	Color Red
4	Color Cyan
5	Color Purple
6	Color Green
7	Color Blue
8	Color Yellow
A	Switches the VIC-IV to color range 16-31
B	Underline mode - ESC + O to disable
D	Switches the VIC-IV to default color range 0-15
E	Restores the cursor color to white
G	Ring the bell
I	Cursor right one tab stop
J	Cursor to the next line or two with BASIC code line that is two lines
K	Locks upper/lower case modes
L	Enables upper/lower case modes
M	Same function as RETURN
N	Changes text case from uppercase to lowercase only - not a toggle
O	Flashing Mode - ESC + O to disable
P	Scroll BASIC code down one line
Q	Cursor to next line
S	No Scroll but does not resume scroll - any key to resume
T	Same function as INST/DEL
U	Move back one word
V	Scroll BASIC code up one line
W	Move forward one word
X	Sets or clears a tab
Z	Cursor left one tab stop
]	Same function as →
[	Same as ESC
*	Load the Matrix Mode Debugger

About MEGA65 Colors

While not related to becoming a keyboard ninja on the MEGA65, I’m going to take a quick sidebar and share the colors, and their index code, available on the MEGA65 in BASIC mode in the table below. The MEGA65 community named colors 16 through 31. I was happy they selected my choice for 31, Hot Tamales; one of my favorite candies.

INDEX	COLOR
0	Black
1	White
2	Red
3	Cyan
4	Purple
5	Green
6	Blue
7	Yellow
8	Orange
9	Brown
10	Pink
11	Dark Gray
12	Medium Gray
13	Light Green
14	Light Blue
15	Light Gray
16	Guru Meditation
17	Rambutan
18	Carrot
19	Lemon Tart
20	Pandan
21	Seasick Green
22	Soylent Green
23	Slimer Green
24	The Other Cyan
25	Sea Sky
26	Smurf Blue
27	Screen of Death
28	Plum Sauce
29	Sour Grape
30	Bubblegum
31	Hot Tamales

This was another the way the developers could engage the community and allow them to be a part of the development.

I’ve created a program to display all the colors on your MEGA65. The output of that program is below:

If you’d like the program that includes a fun sound effect as the MEGA65 displays the colors, download the disk image below:

Download the MEGA65 Colors BASIC program from the MEGA65 FileHost.

💾 On Disk: M65 COLORS

Next we will use the MEGA key to access the several of the extended color keys.

MEGA

If the MEGA key shape is familiar, see the image below and it will all make sense.

Now that we know where the symbol comes from, let’s find out how to use it.

The MEGA key is a modifier key. These keystrokes are called MEGA Codes. Holding the MEGA key and tapping a key with two front graphics or a single graphic symbol will produce the left graphic or single symbol.

Holding SHIFT and tapping the MEGA key switches between lower and uppercase character modes.

Holding the MEGA key and tapping a number switches the color to the second color range listed on the key, as shown in the table below:

MEGA	FUNCTION
1	Color Orange
2	Color Brown
3	Color Light Red
4	Color Dark Gray
5	Color Medium Gray
6	Color Light Green
7	Color Light Blue
8	Color Light Gray

Holding the MEGA key and tapping the TAB key activates the Matrix Mode Debugger.

TIP: While I don’t cover the functions available in the Matrix Mode Debugger, one handy tip is that this is a quick way to know which core is in use.

Holding the MEGA key while turning on or resetting the MEGA65 will boot to Commodore 64 mode.

RUN/STOP

Tap the RUN/STOP key to exit a running BASIC program. This key rarely works with assembly language code and software can disable the key.

SHIFT + RUN/STOP will load the first program found on a floppy disk or attached disk image.

Press and hold RUN/STOP while resetting the MEGA65 will enter the Machine Code Monitor.

RESTORE

Press and hold RUN/STOP and then tap RESTORE to restore the computer to a “clean state” without clearing the contents of memory. Programs can disable this feature and it rarely works with assembly language programs.

I use RESTORE frequently to access the Freezer. Press and hold the RESTORE key for about a second and release when the screen border flickers. The Freezer will display as shown in the image below.

Cursor Keys

On the bottom right-hand side of the keyboard, unlike the Commodore VIC-20 and C64, but like the Plus/4 and C128, there are four cursor keys. The cursor keys move the cursor in the direction they point; either ↑, ↓, ←, or →.

If your muscle memory is stuck on a two cursor configuration, you can use SHIFT + ↓ to move the cursor up and SHIFT + → to move the cursor left. Holding down these keys (including the SHIFT combinations) will move the cursor until you stop pressing them.

Arrow Keys

The MEGA65 keyboard includes two arrow keys; ↑ (next to RESTORE) and ← (next to 1. To distinguish them, I will use [↑] and [←].

Use [↑] to raise a number to a power. For instance, the immediate command: PRINT 2[↑]3 will display the number 8.

Use [←] as a shortcut to SAVE a program to a disk or disk image. Below is an example:

[←] "SUB TRACK SYS NOTE: A closing quotation is not a required.

Later I will show how to use these keys as part of Escape Codes.

INST/DEL

Press INST/DEL to delete a character to the left of the cursor and move all remaining characters on the line to the left one position.

Press SHIFT + INST/DEL to move all characters to the right one position, leaving a blank space, as needed, or to insert another character.

Holding either key combination will continue to insert and delete until you stop pressing them.

CLR/HOME

Press CLR/HOME to place the cursor at the top left-hand position on the MEGA65 screen.

Press SHIFT + CLR/HOME to clear the entire screen and place the cursor at the top left-hand position on the MEGA65 screen.

NO SCROLL

When you LIST a program, press NO SCROLL to pause the listing. Press NO SCROLL again to resume the listing.

Function/HELP (F15/16) Keys

Software developers can program function keys; however, many have native functions, as shown in the table below. Hold SHIFT and press a function key to activate the secondary, or even number, function key.

KEY	FUNCTION
F1	Toggle between 40 and 80 column mode.
F2	No Function
F3	List the Directory of a disk or disk image
F4	List the .PRG files on a disk or disk image
F5	Moves the cursor back one word
F6	Displays `KEY6` on the screen
F7	Moves the cursor forward one word.
F8	Enters the machine language monitor. Press `X` to exit.
F9	Scroll BASIC code down one line
F10	Displays `KEY10` on the screen
F11	Scroll BASIC code up one line
F12	Displays `KEY12` on the screen
F13	Delete character in front of cursor
F14	Insert character in front of cursor
HELP/F15	Enters `HELP` command
HELP/F16	Enters `HELP` command

About the HELP key; if you run into a syntax error when you run a BASIC program, press the HELP key and the BASIC 65 will display the first line of code with the error.

ESC Codes

Tap ESC and then tap the character. Do not hold down ESC. These keystrokes are called Escape Sequences.

ESC	FUNCTION
@	Erase to end of screen
4	Clears screen and switches to 40 column mode
8	Clears screen and switches to 80 column mode
A	Auto insert
B	Set bottom-right screen margin
C	Cancel auto insert
D	Delete line
E	Non-flashing cursor
F	Flashing cursor
G	Enable CTRL + G bell
H	Disable CTRL + G bell
I	Insert line
J	Move to start of line
K	Move to end of line
L	Enable scrolling
M	Disable scrolling and loops cursor to top of screen
O	Cancel insert, quote, rvs, ul & flash modes
P	Erase to beginning of line
Q	Erase to end of line
S	Switches the VIC-IV to color range 16-31
T	Set top-left screen margin
U	Switches the VIC-IV to default color range 0-15
V	Scroll up
W	Scroll down
X	Switch between 40/80 display modes
Y	Set default tab stops to every 8 characters
Z	Clear all tab stops
‌[↑]	Save current cursor position
‌[←]	Restore saved cursor position

Booting Cores

It’s inconvenient to enter the core screen every time you want to load a different core and the MEGA65 developers understood this and created a keyboard combination to boot directly to the core slot of your choice.

Hold down NO SCROLL and the number key of the core slot to boot
Power on your MEGA65.

That is more convenient!

Conclusion

This content was a blast to prepare and I hope readers and watchers learn as much from the content as I did putting it together. I’m prepared for the community to tell me that I’ve missed something or to make corrections. Use the comments below to share and if I get enough feedback, I’ll consider an addendum.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Part III: Playing the C64 demos from the MEGA65 on boarding SD Card

2022-04-23T00:00:00+00:00

This is the companion blog post for my 2022-04-03 live stream edit; Part III: Playing the C64 demos from the MEGA65 on boarding SD Card. This is a short edit of a much longer live stream where I continue my look at the “b-side” of the MEGA65 onboarding SD card that includes a C64 disk image full of games and demos to run on the MEGA65 in Commodore 64 mode. We’ve run through the games and this video is all demos! Before the demos, I unbox a few items that will appear in future content and a gift from one of my producers.

If you need to get caught up, be sure and check out parts I and II. Here are the details:

Live stream edits contain additional content not found in the original live streams.

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
- Producers
- Executive Producers
Companion YouTube Video
Watch the Entire Live Stream
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
RRRPs
B-Side Commodore C64 Demos Continued
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

You can now support me via Buy Me A Coffee page with a onetime activity or become a full member via my fun Commodore inspired membership levels. When you support the channel, you get additional content and fun extras. Check out the membership levels to learn more.

Thank you to these members for supporting me at the C128 level; making them retroCombs producers:

Producers

Jamie’s Hack Shack
The Lovely Accountant

Executive Producers

Boba Fett
Mislav Krleža

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Part III: Playing the C64 demos from the MEGA65 on boarding SD Card

In the video below, I continue my exploration of the C64 disk image included with the MEGA65 onboarding SD card.

Watch the Entire Live Stream

If this edit isn’t enough and you want to watch the entire livestream, including additional content and another unboxing, you get it here. For a buck, you can support the channel and watch the entire one-hour and twenty-one minute version. It’s fun to see what was left on the chopping block while laughing along at my errors!

Become a member using one of my fun Commodore inspired membership levels and you can watch this live stream for free, and without ads, along with other future live streams (either live or on demand afterward). Check out my membership page to learn how you can get this benefit along with many others, including access to the retroCombs Discord channel.

Video Errata

None as of 2022-04-02.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

RRRPs

I unbox three items purchased from AliExpress and I’m likely never to purchase from them again. Long arrival times make me forget what I ordered! I’m using Amazon links below for faster shipping.

$10 ITEM - To use with OBS studio but these work to capture the MEGA65.

B-Side Commodore C64 Demos Continued

Below is a list of the demos I share along with thoughts and links. We’ll start with the games (the programs on the disk image above the line).

NOTE: LOAD commands include blank space and I represent these with the ␣ character.

IRATA - This 2013 demo celebrates 30 years of IRATA in the demo scene via an impressive mix of sound and graphics that even though on an 8-bit display, looks modern.

LOAD Command: LOAD "RAB-IRATA IBA"

RGBA - This trippy 2011 demo looks great at the start but gets the party going once the large Commodore logo appears on the screen.

LOAD Command: LOAD "RGBA"

4K PETSCII Intro - With a name like 4K PETSCII, this 2019 demo has to be good and it does not disappoint. With bright colors and PETSCII characters, Genesis Project (GP) includes a fun soundtrack.

LOAD Command: LOAD "GP - 4K PETSCII"

The Earth - If you load this 2018 demo and expect anything a revolving earth, this is the demo for you. In addition to the aforementioned earth, this demo includes music, not my favorite, with credits and greetings that orbit the earth.

LOAD Command: LOAD "THE EARTH"

C64 Invitation - Fishbone’s first, and short, 2010 demo is a good one and there’s even a shoutout to those in the ZX Spectrum demo scene. The text choice is interesting and the swipe to erase is smooth.

LOAD Command: LOAD "C64INVITATION"

Prologue - This fun 2021 demo looks like an anime inspired fighting game introduction more than a demo from the scene. This one could be lifted off the screen of a Gameboy Color system.

LOAD Command: LOAD "PROLOGUE"

BEEP! - I’m confused. The name of this is BEEP! - DREAM; however, the screen says displays Dream and then Silly Venture 2021. Is this a mash up? Leave a comment and let me know. I had a hard time figuring this one out.

LOAD Command: LOAD "BEEP! -DREAM"

Oldskool Forever 2 - The Roadrunner makes a cameo in this demo that starts with a cool transition from the C64 blue screen into the demo world. I was unable to find a link to this one. If you have more info, please leave a comment below.

LOAD Command: LOAD "0LDSK00L 4EVER 2"

Conservative - This conservative 2012 demo starts with, go figure, a conservative Commodore 64 screen and then warns the user that the “hippies” should look elsewhere as the propaganda appears on non-conservative screens that divulge into a static filled screen of individual words.

LOAD Command: LOAD "CONSERVATIVE"

GUBBDATA 2020 - One of the most fun audio and visual demos in this group, this is what would happen if you added Statler or Waldorf to a Commodore 64 demo.

LOAD Command: LOAD "GUBBDATA 2020/GP"

PETSCII TRIP - If the Ghostbusters drove a Commodore themed car, this is what it would look like. All PETSCII from 2019, this demo (created in 10 days) tells the story of a trip through PETSCII land. Even though PETSCII characters are used, this one reminds me of a Lucas Arts adventure game.

LOAD Command: LOAD "PETSCII-TRIP"

Smile - A tribute to Bárd, this 2018 demo loads with a flashing boarder a unique text scroll that ends with what I assume is an image of Bárd. I didn’t know him, but this demo paints him as an inspiring spirit loved by many. Everyone needs their own demo and with 8-bit music this good.

LOAD Command: LOAD "SMILE-TO-THE-SKY"

Dirty Harry - Go ahead, make my demo! You get what you expect if you were looking for Dirty Harry shooting space invaders game characters in this 2007 demo. This is the only demo that you can exit gracefully by tapping the space bar. There is text at the beginning that I captured for you below:

24 MAY 2007. {A} NEW INTRO BY CRYPT. THX
TO A-MAN/XENON FOR THE COOL MUSIC. BOOST
ING BASS !!!    BTW DONT ASK ME WHY BUT
THE SOUND BUGS ON EMULATORS

If anyone knows more about this demo, please share in the comments below.

LOAD Command: LOAD "DIRTYHARRY"

And that concludes our look at the demos on the MEGA65 SD Card onboarding image!

Final Thoughts

We did it! We reviewed every demo and game on the B-side of the MEGA65 onboarding SD card. When you receive your MEGA65, make sure to visit these games and demos again. We only scratched the surface of this software and you will want to spend more time to explore all the features these titles offer.

The C64 disk image is a nice addition to the MEGA65. It is my understanding that they prepared the SD Cards for the spring release of the MEGA65. It is unlikely any of the titles will change, but what’s included is a nice way to highlight C64 mode. If you have interest, leave your comments below or under the video.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

An Update: The Submarine Tracking System conversion to BASIC 65

2022-03-28T00:00:00+00:00

In my blog post, Converting a Commodore 128 Submarine Tracking System BASIC Program to the MEGA65, I show what the title suggests, converting a Commodore 128 BASIC V7 program, the Submarine Tracking System, found on page 116 of the C128 Programmer’s Reference Guide to MEGA65 BASIC which began it’s life on the unreleased Commodore 65 with BASIC 10. This blog post and companion video is a follow-up to that project. I have a bunch of information to share. Let’s get to it.

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
C128 Submarine Tracking System BASIC Program
BASIC 65 (not Version 10)
Changes to BASIC Program
Final Conversion
What’s Next?
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Thank you to these members for supporting me at the C128 level; making them retroCombs producers:

Mislav Krleža
Jamie’s Hack Shack
Boba Fett
The Lovely Accountant

Companion YouTube Video

Title: ‌Updating the Submarine Tracking System BASIC 65 Program for the MEGA65 💾

In the video below, I provide an update to my C128 to MEGA65 Submarine Tracking System BASIC program.

Video Errata

[UPDATE 2022-04-02] Added information about the DOT command in the ‘LINE’ Command section.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

C128 Submarine Tracking System BASIC Program

As a reminder, below is the original BASIC V7 C128 Submarine Tracking System from the C128 Programmer’s Reference Manual.

REM SUBMARINE TRACKING SYSTEM (C128)
COLOR 0,1:COLOR 4,1:COLOR 1,2:GRAPHIC 1,1
BOX 1,0,0,319,199
CHAR 1,7,24,"SUBMARINE TRACKING SYSTEM"
COLOR 1,3
XR=0:YR=0
DO
CIRCLE 1,160,100,XR,YR,0,360,0,2
XR=XR+10:YR=YR+10
LOOP UNTIL XR=90
DO
XR=0:YR=0
DO
CIRCLE 0,160,100,XR,YR,0,360,0,2
COLOR 1,2
DRAW 1,160,100+XR:DRAW 0,160,100+XR
COLOR 1,3
SOUND 1,16000,15
CIRCLE 1,160,100,XR,YR,0,360,0,2
XR=XR+10:YR=YR+10
LOOP UNTIL XR=90
LOOP

💾 Download: C128 SUB TRACK

Below is the output:

My original BASIC 65 version had personal preferences because there were features that weren’t yet baked into the MEGA65. Now that we have all the tools to create a one-to-one conversion, I remove my customizations and my goal is a direct translation.

BASIC 65 (not Version 10)

I learn something each time I visit the MEGA65 Discord. Much of what I share in this post was a contribution from that community. I’ve mentioned in the past how great each of them are and as you will learn while reading this blog post or watching the video, none of what follows would have happened without them.

The first change to note is that we do not refer BASIC on the MEGA65 as BASIC 10. Per Bit Shifter:

We decided to name the BASIC for the MEGA65, BASIC 65. Though BASIC-10 was the base, we did so many changes, that we thought, it would be better to name it different. I estimate ca. 30 new commands, many bug fixes and ca. 40% changed/optimised code. E.g. fast variables, 32bit hex-constants, byte variables and arrays, binary read/write and much more.

All those times I said BASIC 10 in my last blog post and video; pretend I said, BASIC 65. I’ll do my best not to refer to BASIC on the MEGA65 as V10.

Changes to BASIC Program

In the previous version of my BASIC 65 conversion, I could not make the program operate like the C128 version. I made concessions. I’ll keep one of those, for clarity, but thanks to the developers, we can now create a duplicate Submarine Tracking System on the MEGA65. Drawing the border is the first change.

TIP: `LIST` Command

Before I dig into the changes made to the BASIC program to match the original C128 Submarine Tracking Program, here’s a tip. If you want to view the contents of a .PRG file on a 1581 disk or disk image, use the LIST command, followed by the name of the file. This will list the program’s file contents but not disturb the current program in memory. Use SPEED 1 to slow the listing or RUN/STOP to stop the listing. I use the LIST command for two primary functions:

Review image listing to determine if I’m loading the correct program.
List a program and then grab lines out of the program to append to my current program.

It is a great time saver!

`BOX` command

In my BASIC 65 version of the Submarine Tracking System, I create a border using the LINE command instead of the BOX command from the C128 version. I did this because I could not get the text to overwrite the box line when drawn on top. There was an undocumented feature of the BOX command on the MEGA65. Per developer Bit Shifter:

Ctrl-B is not underlined, but “blank”. CHAR has its own control codes, which correspond only partially with the text mode control chars. But it seems that I forgot to add this code to the table in the manual (see picture). I’ll update the manual next week, when I’m back from my vacation.

Below is that line of code:

40 CHAR 7,192,1,1,2,"{uloff} SUBMARINE TRACKING SYSTEM",$29000

{uloff} = CTRL + B

In this new version, I draw the border like the C128 version for consistency instead of middle aligned, as shown in the previous video. The {uloff} removes the border beneath the text. SWEET!

`SPEED` command

I add a single SPEED command. The MEGA65 cannot duplicate the C128’s ≈2 MHz speed. The MEGA65 provides three options: 1 MHz, 3.5 MHz, and 40.5 MHz. I choose the default 1 Mhz and found this a close match. Any faster and you cannot see the submarine blip as I share later.

`SLEEP` command

In my previous BASIC 65 version, I used the SLEEP command several times to slow things down; however, now that I can create an almost exact duplicate, I no longer need those entries. Memory freed!

`CIRCLE command

None of what I share up to this point required any new changes to the MEGA65.ROM file; however, in order for the MEGA65 to draw circles like the C128, point-to-point at the North position (270°) clockwise, the developers had to make changes, and it was Bit Shifter to the rescue. Que the superhero music!

If you review my previous attempt at the conversion, you see that the MEGA65 created circles by drawing four quadrants at the same time. While it was a cool radar-type of effect, it was dissimilar from the way other Commodore computers draw circles and made an exact conversions impossible unless I plotted each point on the circle; a lengthy and cycle sucking process.

The new CIRCLE command allows me to recreate the C128 version but came with a development journey. Bit Shifter created a version that drew a circle end-to-end but it started at 0° instead of 270°. With an earlier version of the MEGA65.ROM, I could use the arc feature of the CIRCLE command to draw two arcs (270° to 0° and 0° to 270°) to create an end-to-end circle starting at 270°. The circles appeared to be drawn in the same fashion as the C128, but it took two circles command.

I resigned myself to the fact that I was going to have a single difference between my version and the C128 version and while I could live with this, Bit Shifter noted my consternation, or was tired of hearing from me about this in the Discord channel, in the ability of the MEGA65 to make an exact duplicate of the C128 version. He got to work and created a new CIRCLE command variable that he now calls, the Combs Flag! And the term might catch up on with Maurice saying the name is “fantastic” and Lydon suggesting the flag name be listed that way in the user’s manual. I’m down with that and learning that my name might live in MEGA65 history put a huge smile on my face.

NOTE: While not required for my project, Bit Shifter threw in a bright and shiny new ELLIPSE command. Read the CIRCLE and EllIPSE parameters from Bit Shifter.

Let’s compare code and see how to use the Combs Flag. Line 80, in the Submarine Tracking System program, is the first to use the CIRCLE command. Below is the C128 version:

80 CIRCLE 1,160,100,XR,YR,0,360,0,2

Next is the shiny new BASIC 65 version complete with the Combs Flag, or 4 at the end of the line:

80 CIRCLE 160,95,XR,4

Even with the “Combs Flag”, the BASIC 65 version is shorter and easier to use than the C128 version.

‘LINE’ Command

To draw the submarine blip, the C128 uses the DRAW command in line 160. I have replaced DRAW with the BASIC 65 LINE command. If you specify a single start coordinate and omit an end coordinate, you get a single point (pixel); like the DRAW command. Converting line 160 now produces the same haphazard blip found in the C128 version that sometimes you see and sometimes you don’t. I prefer the larger blip and added time to view the blip, but to keep as consistent as possible with the C128 version, “it is what it is!”

[UPDATE: 2022-04-02] The MEGA65 includes the DOT command. This command has three flags, x coordinate, y coordinate, and an optional color. Below is a BASIC program that places a single red dot on a black background at coordinates 50, 50:

SCREEN 320,200,4
DOT 50,50,2
GETKEY A$
SCREEN CLOSE

Final Conversion

With all changes implemented, below is the new MEGA65 BASIC version.

REM SUBMARINE TRACKING SYSTEM
SPEED 1 : PEN 0 : GRAPHIC CLR : SCREEN 320,200,4
BOX 0,0,319,199
CHAR 7,192,1,1,2,"{uloff}SUBMARINE TRACKING SYSTEM",$29000
PEN 2
XR=10
DO
CIRCLE 160,95,XR
XR=XR+10
LOOP UNTIL XR=90
DO
XR=10
DO
PEN 0 : CIRCLE 160,95,XR
PEN 1
LINE 160,95+XR : PEN 0 : LINE 160,95+XR
PEN 2
SOUND 1,16000,15
PEN 2 : CIRCLE 160,95,XR
XR=XR+10
LOOP UNTIL XR = 90
LOOP

That’s a close conversion and one I am happy with. I couldn’t have done it without the responsiveness of Bit Shifter. As I’ve said, the MEGA65 community is fabulous and they listen to their users. I can’t wait to see what else is in store for us with the release of the MEGA65.

What’s Next?

As I mentioned in the last video, there are additions I recommend, but at the time of this writing, I want to explore a single one; using a sprite to animate the blip. When I do, I will share with you. It will be a fun exercise to explore sprite creation and use in BASIC 65 and to use the Combs Flag again!

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Part II: Playing the C64 demos from the MEGA65 on boarding SD Card

2022-03-19T00:00:00+00:00

This is the companion blog post for my 2022-03-13 live stream edit; Part II: Playing the C64 demos from the MEGA65 on boarding SD Card. This 29 minute video is an edit of a longer one hour and thirty-five minute live stream where I continue my look at the “b-side” of the MEGA65 onboarding SD card that includes a C64 disk image full of games and demos to run on the MEGA65 in Commodore 64 mode. Before the demos, I share a couple of recent retro-related purchases, or RRRPs, or triple R P!

If you need to get caught up, be sure and check out part one. Here are the details:

Watch the Full Live Stream - Over one hour of content.
Watch the 25 Minuted Edit - Includes additional content not found in the original live stream

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Watch the Entire Live Stream
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
RRRPs
B-Side Commodore C64 Demos and Games Continued
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Thank you to these members for supporting me at the C128 level; making them retroCombs producers:

Mislav Krleža
Jamie’s Hack Shack
The Lovely Accountant
Boba Fett

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Part II: Playing the C64 demos from the MEGA65 on boarding SD Card

In the video below, I continue my exploration of the C64 disk image included with the MEGA65 onboarding SD card.

Watch the Entire Live Stream

If this edit isn’t enough and you want to watch the entire livestream, including additional content and another unboxing, you get it here. For a buck, you can support the channel and watch the entire one-hour and twenty-minute version. It’s fun to see what I have chopped out while laughing along at my errors!

Video Errata

None as of 2022-03-19.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

RRRPs

I unbox three items purchased from AliExpress and I’m likely never to purchase from them again. Long arrival times make me forget what I ordered! I’m using Amazon links below for faster shipping.

$10 HDMI Capture Device - To use with OBS studio but these work to capture the MEGA65.
$26 Vacuum Solder Sucker - I’m afraid to plug it in. I’ll let you know how it goes.
$8 Solder Fan - but looks like a PC fan with a USB-C connection.

B-Side Commodore C64 Demos and Games Continued

Below is a list of the demos and games I share along with thoughts and links. We’ll start with the games (the programs on the disk image above the line).

NOTE: LOAD commands include blank space and I represent these with the ␣ character.

C64Anabalt - An impressive side-scroller, available on cartridge, is an official conversion of Adam Atomic & Danny B.’s award-winning single-button 2009 indie game C64Anabalt for the 8-Bit, 64KB RAM, 1Mhz Commodore 64 home computer developed by Paul Koller.

LOAD Command: LOAD "C64ANABALT"

Super Natural - A early version conversion of the commercial game Guns ‘n’ Ghosts by Georg Rottensteiner. A one or two player platformer that includes power-ups and some great music.

LOAD Command: `LOAD “SUPERNATURAL”

Shotgun - This game from DrWuro, is a 2 to four player death match style survival game. To play with four players, you need to purchase a Multiplayer Interface.

LOAD Command: LOAD "SHOTGUN"

Frogs - Another game from DrWuro, this one might make you think of the classic game, Frogger; however, Frogs - 4-Player Frog Pond is a different reptile all together. Another four player game; “It’s springtime again, and the FROGS are hanging around at the pond, listening to funky freestyle music and trying to prove who’s the coolest of them all. For this, they are competing in some funny competitions, which you can re-enact using your Commodore C64/C128, in a group of up to 4 players!” To play with four players, you need to purchase a Multiplayer Interface.

LOAD Command: LOAD "FROGS"

Below the line are the C64 demos. Below is the list of demos shown during the livestream.

Dragon II - Strike the 1 through 0 keys on the keyboard to listen to ten SID songs, programmed by Electro, from the game, Dragon’s Lair II.

LOAD Command: LOAD "DRAGON II/ELC␣␣␣" ←Note the 3 extra spaces.

Surfing - Direct from 1988 and complete with messages to you, from the developer, Surfing by Mechanix presents a single image with continual music as a stream-of-consciousness scrolls along the bottom of the screen. Be sure to tap the spacebar to enter the demo after the introduction screen. Warning! Adult language.

LOAD Command: LOAD "SURFING␣␣␣␣/2124"

Time for Dole - Time for Dole by Mechanix (1988) is a flasher with impressive mood music. When I mention flasher, please beware. The screen constantly flashed and could trigger seizure; seriously! While colorful, I found it difficult to watch for extended periods of time.

LOAD Command: "TIME 4 DOLE /MEC"

Triad - Beginning with a fun PETSCII “terminal-type” loader, PC-Pert by Triad (1988) includes three parts (get it, Triad?) you activate by tapping the spacebar. Colorful and full of impressive multi-channel SID music, the demo features large bouncing and scrolling text.

LOAD Command: LOAD "TRIAD/PC - PERT!"

Antic - Impressive rotating 3D text highlights this demo. The [Antic Demo by Transcom (1988) scrolls text so fast you can’t even read it!

LOAD Command: LOAD "ANTIC./.TRANSCOM"

D.Y.C.P. - Somebody likes text on curves. D.Y.C.P. by Jewels (1988) asks you to watch the text float around the screen in a wavy pattern while pondering the question, “what does D.Y.C.P. stand for, anyway?”

LOAD Command: LOAD "D.Y.C.P./JEWELS"

Greenwars - As a U.S. Army retiree, this one speaks to me. Greenwars by Science Fiction Crackings and The Last Science (1988) begins with a brief national anthem intro followed by text showed this demo includes music from the Green Berets. My favorite part is the flashing image of soldiers on patrol.

LOAD Command: LOAD "-GREENWARS/TLS!-"

Star Riders - Star Riders by Reptilia Design (1988) starts with a single screen hinting at great things to come with this demo if you connect a joystick. Not may demos are interactive. Give this one a shot.

LOAD Command: LOAD "STAR RIDERS /I&M"

Electric Cafe - There’s nothing like floating 3D disembodied heads as the developers of Electric Cafe by Ash & Dave (1988) must have thought; because that is what you get in this demo!

LOAD Command: LOAD "ELECTRIC CAFE␣␣␣"

That’s the Way it is - As with many demos, [CSDb] - That’s the Way It Is by Scoop (1988) begins with hellos and creditss followed by massive vertical scrolling text! While the intro itself is impressive, press the spacebar to begin the demo to be treated to a 1980s “space-babe” in a swimsuit, ON THE MOON?!? How is she breathing?

LOAD Command: LOAD "THAT'S../SCOOP␣␣"

XESS2-Rewind - A countdown, followed by six low-resolution classic video game screens atop an 8-bit control panel, and patriotic music highlights XESS 2 - Rewind by XESS (1987).

LOAD Command: LOAD "XESS2-REWIND"

Rock This C64CG - Rock This by C64 Comics Group (1987) stresses the words, “Rock This” throughout the demo that includes a muted color podium held by two equally muted characters. I can’t tell what they are and if you do, drop a comment below. The side scrolling vertical text is impressive.

LOAD Command: LOAD "ROCK THIS /C64CG"

Omega Eight Demo - In the Omega 8, there’s spacebar pressing as you move through sections which includes a glitchy load screen that makes you think your C64 has locked up. It will reward your patience.

LOAD Command: LOAD "OMEGA EIGHT DEMO"

Shades - “The future’s so bright, I gotta wear, Shades!” You won’t need your shades for this one. Run the program and keep on programming. SYS 2064 will restart the demo, but beware, the NEW command will purge that little ditty right out of memory.

LOAD Command: LOAD "SHADES"

Airwolf Music - This music, by “The Deft”, is so accurate to the original 1980s television theme song that I’ll likely get a copyright strike in my companion YouTube channel demo.

LOAD Command: LOAD "AIRWOLF MUSIC"

Final Thoughts

We have another round of demos to go and I’ll cover those during another live stream; or Part III. Subscribe to both the blog and the YouTube channel (and hit that alert button) to receive updates.

The C64 disk image is a nice addition to the MEGA65. It is my understanding that they prepared the SD Cards for the spring release of the MEGA65. It is unlikely any of the titles will change, but what’s included is a nice way to highlight C64 mode. There are many more demos that I didn’t have time to view and there will be a part III. If you have interest, leave your comments below or under the video.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Converting a Commodore 128 Submarine Tracking System BASIC Program to the MEGA65

2022-03-07T00:00:00+00:00

In a past live stream, not currently available to view, I tried to convert a BASIC program from the Commodore 128 Programmer’s Reference Guide to use on the MEGA65. What I thought would be a line-by-line conversion caught me off guard, as I found there were significant differences between Commodore BASIC 7 (CBM 128) and Commodore BASIC 10 (CBM 65 / MEGA65).

Folks on the live stream tried to help, but we quickly found that trying to convert this program while distracted was not a productive environment nor something you want to watch. In order to convert the program, I needed to spend time in the MEGA65 Book, uninterrupted, reviewing the changes between BASIC version 7 (V7) and BASIC version 10 (V10).

What I found were many command changes between these versions of BASIC when addressing graphic screens; a feature of the Submarine Tracking System program from the Commodore 128 Programmer’s Reference Guide. After about an hour, and a lot of trial and error, I had the conversion complete. After another hour, I had optimized the program and created version using the MEGA65 high-resolution screen. This blog post and companion video explain the differences between the two programs.

[UPDATE: 2022-03-17] Before we begin, below is demo of the submarine tracking program from the MEGA65:

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
Submarine Tracking Program
Commodore 128 Version
About Commodore BASICS
- Releases
- Unreleased Versions
MEGA65 Version
Comparing Lines
Configure the Graphics Screen and Colors
Draw the Submarine Tracking System
Track the Submarine
High Resolution versions
Enhancing the Program
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

You can now support me via my Buy Me A Coffee page with a one-time activity or become a full member via my fun Commodore inspired membership levels. When you support the channel, you get additional content and fun extras. Check out the membership levels to learn more.

Thank you to these members for supporting me at the C128 level; making them retroCombs producers:

Mislav Krleža
Jamie’s Hack Shack
Boba Fett
The Lovely Accountant

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Convert a Commodore BASIC program from Version 7 to Version 10 | Submarine Tracking System on MEGA65

In the video below, I convert a Submarine Tracking program for the Commodore 128 to the MEGA65.

Video Errata

[UPDATE: 2022-03-13] Developer Bit Shifter shares a way to use the BOX command with V10, to draw the border and text the way I wanted, here. I made updates to the blog post. I considered a mention but this one keystroke made the V10 code operate like the V7 code and was a more accurate conversion. Since the solution involves the use of a CBM PETSCII control code, a reverse B, I represent this keystrokes with the text {CTRL+B}. Below is code you can try:

GRAPHIC CLR : SCREEN 640,400,4
BOX 0,0,639,389
CHAR 14,382,2,2,2,"{CTRL+B} SUBMARINE TRACKING SYSTEM ",$29000
GETKEY A$
SCREEN CLOSE

[UPDATE: 2022-03-13] Developer Bit Shifter was inspired by this post and companion video. After seeing the changes made from V7 to V10, and the way circles were created and their limitations, he has modified the code. Per Bit Shifter:

“Your sonar program inspired me to write new routines for CIRCLE and ELLIPSE which now draw the outline continuously and not segmented as before. Additionally I added start angle, end angle and dotted outline. Now it should be easier, to program the sonar view.”
[UPDATE: 2022-03-13] Developer Bit Shifter posted an updated ROM along with updated CIRCLE and ELLIPSE parameters. This new ROM is now live and available on the FileHost. [UPDATE: 2022-03-17]The animated demo at the beginning of this blog post demonstrates the new .ROM in action. Now, both the C128 and MEGA65 versions function and appear the same way.
[UPDATE: 2022-03-13] The MEGA65 team is calling the MEGA65 computer version of BASIC, BASIC 65. CBM called the C65 version of BASIC, C65 BASIC. Developer Bit Shifter shared that:

…we thought, it would be better to name it different. I estimate ca. 30 new commands, many bug fixes and ca. 40% changed/optimised code. E.g. fast variables, 32bit hex-constants, byte variables and arrays, binary read/write and much more.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Submarine Tracking Program

After a recent purchase to replace my C128 from the 1980s, I was perusing a PDF version of the C128 Programmer’s Reference Manual for interesting tips and tricks for an upcoming project; however, there was a BASIC program on page 116 that drew my eye, the Submarine Tracking System. There was no image of the program’s output, but the 23 lines of code intimated a cool graphics display through its use of circles and sound.

I fired up the C128 VICE emulator on my Mac and typed in the program. Yes, I could have used the technique from my Transfer BASIC Programs in Print to Physical Commodore Computers post and video to speed up the process, but it was 23 lines long and since I hoped to convert this to a MEGA65 program, typing it would allow me to process each line and how it worked.

I was correct, the program was a fun 23 lines of code.

Commodore 128 Version

Below is the BASIC program from page 116 of the C128 Programmer’s Reference Manual. I’ll cover the lines of code when we compare them to the MEGA65 version. The C128 uses BASIC version 7 (more on version later).

TIP: Load the C128 VICE emulator, download the .txt file above, copy the contents, and paste into the VICE emulator. Type RUN and start tracking subs!

About Commodore BASICS

Before we analyze the program’s code, and change it to work on the MEGA65, let’s take a brief look at the history of Commodore’s BASIC language. Per Wikipedia;

Commodore BASIC, known as PET BASIC or CBM-BASIC, is the dialect of the BASIC programming language used in Commodore International’s 8-bit home computer line, stretching from the PET of 1977 to the C128 of 1985.

…based on 6502 Microsoft BASIC, it shares many characteristics with other 6502 BASICs of the time, such as Applesoft BASIC.

Commodore licensed BASIC from Microsoft in 1977 on a “pay once, no royalties” basis after Jack Tramiel turned down Bill Gates’ offer of a $3 per unit fee. As stated by Jack Tramiel during the Commodore 64’s 25th anniversary celebration at the Computer History Museum on December 10, 2007, Trammel told Gates, “I’m already married,” and that he would only pay $25,000 for a perpetual license.

Commodore BASIC version numbers have an interesting history. I will not cover the changes to each version of BASIC, but will review the version numbers. Commodore released the following versions of BASIC on the following devices. The list of devices is not comprehensive. My intent is to list the first computer to host a specific version of BASIC. If there are errors, please let me know in the comments below.

Releases

The following version of basic were released from 1977 to 1985.

V1.0: PET 2001 with chiclet keyboard
V2.0: PET 2001 with full keyboard
V4.0: PET/CBM 4000/8000 series and late version PET 2001s
V2.0: Second release for VIC-20 and C64
V4+: CBM-II (B and P) series
V3.5: C116, C16, Plus/4
V7.0: C128
V10/MEGA : MEGA65

Unreleased Versions

There were two other BASIC versions that were not released, like the computers that hosted them.

V3.6: Commodore LCD - Herd dissects a Commodore LCD
V10: Commodore 65 - The Commodore 65 - Incredibly Rare & Unreleased!

Version 10 of BASIC has been revived by the MEGA65 developer community and is in active development for the soon to be released MEGA65. They continue to stomp out bugs and add new features to commands that follow the original C65 roadmap or add function to the MEGA65. As the owner of a MEGA65 Dev Kit, I’ve been following development, and this caused me to want to port a BASIC program from my previous favorite 8-bit computer, the Commodore 128, to my newest 8-bit computer obsession, the MEGA65. The Submarine Tracking System turned out to be a good first program to convert.

MEGA65 Version

Before I compare the two programs, below is the MEGA65 version. My goal was to create code that was a line-by-line conversion and maintain the same line numbers for both versions. This will make it easier when I show the two programs side-by-side. I came close.

[UPDATE: 2022-03-13]

REM SUBMARINE TRACKING SYSTEM (MEGA65)
SPEED 1:GRAPHIC CLR:SCREEN 320,200,8
BOX 0,0,319,194
CHAR 7,190,1,1,2,"{CTRL+B} SUBMARINE TRACKING SYSTEM ",$29000
PEN 2
LET XR=10
DO
PEN 2:CIRCLE 160,95,XR
LET XR=XR+10
LOOP UNTIL XR=90
LET XR=10
DO
LET XR=10
DO
PEN 1:CIRCLE 160,95-XR,2,1
PEN 0:CIRCLE 160,95-XR,2,1
SOUND 1,10000,15
PEN 0:CIRCLE 160,95,XR
PEN 2:CIRCLE 160,95,XR
XR=XR+10
LOOP UNTIL XR=90
LOOP

💾 Download: MEGA65 SUB TRACK

Below is an image of the output, but entering and running on the MEGA65 is the best way to experience the program.

Comparing Lines

Before we compare the programs, view the two versions of BASCIC (V7 on the left and V10 on the right) side-by-side below.

NOTE:* I indent the code to better visualize program loops. You can’t do this in Commodore BASIC, but it’s a good visual tool to help describe, develop, or troubleshoot programs.

The program has three sections:

Configure the graphics screen and colors - lines 10 through 60
Draw the Submarine Tracking System - lines 70 through 100
Track a submarine - lines 110 through 220

Let’s look at each section. I’ll present the line number, an explanation of each line, and a discussion of differences.

Configure the Graphics Screen and Colors

10 - The REM statement provides the title for the program. There is nothing special to see here.

20 - Configures the graphics display and the colors. V10 includes a SPEED command and sets the MEGA65 to run at 1 Mhz. The SPEED command has three settings: 1 = 1 Mhz, 3 or 3.5 = 3.5 Mhz, and any other number = 40 Mhz. I’d recommend using 40 for clarity. The MEGA65 cannot be “throttled” to 2 Mhz to match the speed of the C128. I chose 1 Mhz as the best possible comparison.

30 - Draws a box around the edge of the screen. [See Video Errata] My V10 version uses the LINE command to connect five line segments and centers the line at the bottom vertically with the text drawn in line 40. V10 includes the BOX command; however, when used with the CHAR command (below), there are differences. When characters are placed on top of the box, the entire box is erased in the 8-bit grid where the character is placed. On V10, the line remains after the character is drawn to the screen.

40 - Uses the CHAR command to add the words SUBMARINE TRACKING SYSTEM to the bottom of the display on the graphics screen. The CHAR is used in lieu of the PRINT command. The V7 CHAR command sets the color, the X and Y start coordinates, and then the text to draw. V10 includes many additional options as shown below:

7 - column of text
190 - row of text
1 - height of text / a 2 will double (16 pixels) the height
1 - width of text / a 2 will double (16 pixels) the width
2 - direction of text / 1 = ↑ / 2 = → / 3 = ↗ / 4 = ↓ / 5 = ↙ / 6 = ↘ / 7 = ↖ / 8 = ←
[UPDATE: 2022-03-13] "" - characters to display. {CTRL+B} before the text, turns on blank which clears everything behind the text. Don’t confuse this with the underline option when the same code is used with the PRINT command. Read Bit Shifter’s Discord Post for more.
$29000 - character set / null = lowercase and uppercase / $29000 = uppercase and graphics / CHR$(X) codes can be used for text enhancements such as reverse on.

[UPDATE: 2022-03-13] Upon viewing my video, Bit Shifter has made several changes to the way the CIRCLE and ELLIPSE commands work. He posted an example on the Discord #basic channel.

50 - The V7 COLOR command changes the color of the next object drawn to red. V10 uses the PEN command and a value of 2 sets to red.

60 - This line establishes a radius variable(s). V7 creates an XR and XY while V10 uses a single XR variable. We will discuss why when we examine the differences of the CIRCLE command between versions of BASIC.

Draw the Submarine Tracking System

With initial screen established, it is now time draw the sonar screen using a loop to draw concentric circles.

70 - DO, loops a line or lines of code until it encounters the LOOP command and condition. In this case, line 100, which we will discuss later.

80 - The CIRCLE command draws a circle using the radius specified in line 60. There is a significant difference in the CIRCLE command between V7 and V10. V10 includes a streamline version because it includes an ELLIPSE command. The V7 CIRCLE command does double duty. You must specify both vertical and horizontal circular values, and you include a color value. It’s a busy command! V10 asks for a center, radius, and an optional solid parameter.

NOTE: The CIRCLE command is drawn differently between V7 and V10. If you watch the V7 program, you notice the C128 circle is drawn from end-to-end. The V10 draws each quadrant of the circle at the same time. This was inherent in the C65 version of BASIC to maximize the efficiency of the CPU when drawing the circle. I could draw circles end-to-end using replacement code; however, that was not the point of this project.

90 - A value of 10 is added to XR and YR (V7) or XR (V10). Once again, this is due to the V7 version requiring values for the horizontal and vertical radius required by the CIRCLE command.

100 - LOOP ensures lines 80 and 90 continue until eight concentric circles are drawn when the value of XR is equal to 90. It then proceeds to line 110.

With the Submarine Tracking System drawn, we can now track a submarine.

Track the Submarine

This program’s tracking is rudimentary, with the submarine moving from the center to the bottom of the screen and then starts over from the center; however, the 8-bit representation is fun and there’s potential to add more code and more fun.

NOTE: My MEGA65 code makes the sonar blip larger than the original C128 code. It is much easier to spot the submarine!

110 - The DO command is the beginning of an infinite loop, or a loop that continues until it meets the LOOP conditions in line 220 (V7) or 210 (V10). Since there is no condition to this LOOP command, the program will continue until you press the [Run/Stop] key.

120 - Similar to line 60, this line sets the radius variable to either 0 (V7) or 10 (V10). The V10 CIRCLE command will not allow a value of 0 for the radius in lines 170 and 180. In those lines, we can add +10; however, that’s more code and calculations than making the adjustments in line 120.

130 - By now, we know the DO command begins a loop; however, this loops is within a loop and as I mentioned in line 110 becomes a nested loop. That is a loop that runs within a loop. This DO command continues until it meets the conditions of the LOOP command in line 210 (V7) or 200 (V10). That condition is XR = 90. When it meets this condition, the nested loop exits and the infinite loop at line 110 restarts.

Because V7 and V10 use graphics mode and the CIRCLE command differently to animate the sonar, the program lines do not match up in the next loop.

140 - Draws a filled black circle with a radius of 4 which erases the previous filled red circle.

150 - Combined with line 140 above, the two lines are similar to V7 line 160 which used the V7 DRAW command (not available in V10) to quickly draw a pixel sized blip in white and then black (on/off). Instead of the draw command, I use a filled red circle with a radius of 4 which represents the submarine and is much easier to see. Lines 140 and 150 must be in this order or the blip will display constantly on each line.

160 - Sounds (pings) the sonar when the submarine is drawn. Similar to V7 line 180.

170 - Draws a black circle over the red circle to erase the sonar circle.

180 - Draws a red circle over the empty to redraw the sonar circle. Similar to V7 line 190.

200 (V7) & 190 (V10) - Add 10 to XR to jump to the next southern ring in the sonar circles.

210 (V7) & 200 (V10) - As stated in line 130 checks the condition of XR for a value of 90. When this value is reached, it exits the nested loop started at line 110

220 (V7) & 210 (V10) - As stated in line 110, this LOOP command has no conditions to terminate the loop. Program execution will jump back to line 110 until you press the [Run/Stop] key.

All said and done, the V10 code is shorter than the V7 code. Some of that is from my code optimizations; however, even without, the V10 code is [UPDATE: 2022-03-13] ~~468~~ 457 characters with spaces and ~~397~~ 402 without. The V7 code is 809 with spaces and 687 without. That’s a ≈40% difference between the code (with no spaces). That’s a lot of saved keystrokes.

High Resolution versions

After the conversion, I became curious. Could I convert the program quickly using the MEGA65 high-resolution screen and the answer, after an exercise in doubling values, was yes! Along the way, I made a few adjustments:

Convert to 640 x 400 resolution.
Use the SPEED command to make things, well, speedier!
Use the SLEEP command between submarine pings for a more consistent ping interval.
Optimize the code further.

Below is the code:

[UPDATE: 2022-03-13]

rem submarine tracking system (mega65 high res)
speed 3 : graphic clr : screen 640,400,4
box 0,0,639,388
char 14,380,2,2,2,"{uloff} submarine tracking system ",$29000
xr=10 : pen 2
do
circle 320,190,xr
xr=xr+20
loop until xr=190 : speed 40 : sleep 2
do
xr=10
do
pen 1:circle 320,190+xr,4,1 : sleep 1
pen 0:circle 320,190+xr,4,1 : sleep 2
sound 1,16000,15
pen 0:circle 320,190,xr
pen 2:circle 320,190,xr
xr=xr+20
loop until xr=190
loop

💾 On Disk: MEGA65 Submarine Tracking System (High Resolution)

Below is an image of the output, but entering and running on the MEGA65 is the best way to experience the program.

Below are few highlights of the conversion from the MEGA65 low-resolution screen to high resolution along with program enhancements.

20 - I enjoy watching the computer draw the submarine tracking system so I use the SPEED command, set to 3. If I set SPEED to 40, the screen will draw instantaneously. That’s the power of running basic at 40 Mhz! The last part set up the high-resolution graphics screen to 640 x 400 pixels. This is a simple doubling of 320 x 200, or the standard graphics screen. This becomes the beginning of an exercise to double everything else. The 2 at the end sets the biplane level, or number of colors, to 16.

40 - The doubling exercise continues with the CHAR command. This time we double the width and height of the text using 2,2,"submarine tracking system".

90 - I kick up the SPEED to 40 Mhz. You can no longer see the circles being drawn pixel-by-pixel.

110 - I add SLEEP 2 to pause between drawing the screen and ping submarines. That pause gives the program breathing room before tracking begins.

130 & 140 - This SLEEP 1 & 2 commands wait between pings. Because the computer is running at 40 Mhz, we don’t wait for the circles to be drawn each time and without this pause, the blip would move at “light speed!” This version of the code, unlike the V7 or slower V10, ensures each ping is approximately the same interval.

If there are changes to any other code, it was a doubling situation. Could we enhance the program further? Sure!

Enhancing the Program

Below is a list of things that can enhance this program on the MEGA65.

Use SPEED 40 for the V10 code in line 20 to speed the drawing of the sonar.
Use a mathematical formula to draw the circle from end-to-end on the MEGA65 like they are drawn on the C128.
Modify the ping sound to be more “sonar-accurate.”
Use a sprite, in the shape of a submarine, for the blip. V10 includes sprite code to make this easy.
Use random values to plot an unknown path for a submarine.

What ideas do you have? Post them in the comments below.

Final Thoughts

Converting the program and preparing this blog post and companion video was a blast and brought back many memories from my early Commodore VIC-20 days hacking around and troubleshooting BASIC programs.
This simple program conversion caused me to learn more about the MEGA65 and to begin to appreciate BASIC V10.
I’m sure there are many other ways to create this program and would love to read your thoughts and ideas. Leave them in the comments below.
Now that I have a background in BASIC program conversions, I plan to do others. This will aid in my understanding of the changes between BASIC versions, but to become more versed with V10 to create original programs. Be sure to follow my blog and YouTube channel.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Part I: Playing the C64 demos from the MEGA65 on boarding SD Card

2022-02-23T00:00:00+00:00

This is the companion blog post for my 2022-02-23 live stream edit; Part I: Playing the C64 demos from the MEGA65 on boarding SD Card. The 25 minute video is an edit of a longer one hour and fifteen minute live stream where I look at the “b-side” of the MEGA65 onboarding SD card that includes a C64 disk image full of games and demos to run on the MEGA65 in Commodore 64 mode. Before the demos, I discuss new books that adorn my retro-library, including one “the Lovely Accountant” gave me as a birthday gift.

Table of Contents

Support the Blog and Channel
Companion YouTube Video
Watch the Entire Live Stream
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
retroCombs Library Updates
Device Unboxing
B-Side Commodore C64 Demos and Games
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

Thank you to these members for supporting me at the C128 level; making them retroCombs producers:

Mislav Krleža
Jamie’s Hack Shack
The Lovely Accountant

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Playing the C64 demos from the MEGA65 on boarding SD Card

In the video below, I work through half of the C64 disk image included with the MEGA65 onboarding SD card.

Watch the Entire Live Stream

If this edit isn’t enough and you want to watch the entire livestream, including additional content and another unboxing, you get it here. For less than a buck, you can support the channel and watch eat entire one hour version. It’s fun to see what I have chopped out!

Video Errata

None as of 2022-02-23.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

retroCombs Library Updates

The first new book to the library is Mastering the Commodore 64 by Mark Greenshields. Published in 2020, this book is a reprint of the 1983 version. Printed on cheap paper, but packed with great information, I recommend this as a Kindle purchase. Huge thanks to “The Lovely Accountant” for taking the time to figure out I don’t have this one in my library and giving as a gift on my birthday. She listens to me!

The next book was not brand new, but one I finally finished the past couple of weeks; Back Into the Storm by Bil Herd. As I mention in the video, this is a recommended read that captures Bil’s stream of thoughts as he remembers his days at Commodore in the early 1980s. Fun, informative, and insightful for those interested in Commodore during the days of the C128 and Plus/4.

Device Unboxing

Not shown in the edit of the live stream, during the full version I unbox a USB C Tester, 3 in 1 Type C DC5.5 USB Tester USB Load Color Screen IPS Digital Multimeter,Voltage,Current,Power,Resistance,Capacity Detector,with Clip Cable Support. After the unboxing, I plug it in and try it on a few USB ports. The challenge for me is always, “will this USB connection power my retro or electronics devices properly?” I’m hopeful this device will answer those questions.

B-Side Commodore C64 Demos and Games

In the full version of the livestream, while loading the demos and games, I share tips and tricks to make the MEGA65 experience better. You can view that video here. Below is a list of the demos and games I share along with thoughts and links.

Trap Demo - As we learned during the live stream, the Trap demo recreates music from the 1970s Jeff Wayne’s Musical Version of: The War of the Worlds. Scroll to 3:30 on the soundtrack to hear the original music. Sci Fi fans who have not heard this music should take a listen. I found it interesting and oh so cool. It’s a true rock opera for the Sci Fi fan!

Sonar Demo - A walk-on demo not included on the disk image, this is my attempt to convert a C128 program to the MEGA65. I’ll share more about my conversion in a future video and blog post.

Pikku G force Demo - Pikku G Force is a demo by the Dekadence64 team. One of many demos (check out their comprehensive page), this one is a trippy scrolling mess of pixels and, like many of the demos, includes exceptional 8-bit SID music. You need to watch this one for a few minutes to get to the good parts; although the entire demo is an impressive feast for the eyes, the ears, you make that call.

Natura Morta Demo - A 2013 C64 demo by TriStar and Red Sector, Natura Morta begins with a fun scroll, adding to the expectation of a grand SID demonstration. It does not disappoint as it plays a tune and describes the demo’s creation process.

C64 Fourier Demo - C64 Fourier presents a fun visual equalizer that actively complements the impressive SID tune.

Triace40 Demo - I couldn’t find anything online about this demo other than a YouTube video showcasing this demo. With a focus on bouncing text and SID goodness, this one doesn’t have much depth as other demos, but impressive.

Nothing “PETSCII” Demo - First, apologies for the bad “nothing” jokes. I couldn’t help myself; however, the pet skiing demo (or PETSCII…get it?) was priceless. I didn’t have sound, but hold on to that thought.

Subtelevision Demo - A 2019 demo by Orange that challenges the notion that “you have seen it all” in the Commodore 64 demo scene. Trippy music and computer physics highlight this demo.

Nothing “PETSCII” Demo with Sound - The title speaks for itself.

Shadow Switcher Game Demo - Developer Deft shared that on the onboarding SD C64 disk image, all the titles above the line were games and below were demos. I shared a few of the games in the Christmas Eve Live Stream and two titles in this live stream. The first being Shadow Switcher, a good-looking platform game that includes a demo mode. I let the program share itself but plan to come back and try this one. Looks like fun!

Spikes Game Demo - If you need a flappy birds demo that contains itself to a single screen and has the threat of injury for the main character, Spike is the game for you. Hard at the beginning, but as you understand the gameplay and physics, you’ll become addicted.

Final Thoughts

The C64 disk image is a nice addition to the MEGA65. It is my understanding that the SD Cards are prepared for the spring release of the MEGA65. It is unlikely any of the titles will change, but what’s included is a nice way to highlight C64 mode. There are many more demos that I didn’t have time to view and I am considering a part II. If you have interest, leave your comments below or under the video.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Ten ways the MEGA65 is better than my M1 MacBook Pro

2022-02-17T00:00:00+00:00

Full disclosure, I use my M1 MacBook Pro daily, e.g. this blog post, and wouldn’t think about replacing it with any other computer (including the new MacBook Pro). It is the best computer I’ve ever owned. It’s fast, has great battery life, and plows through any task I throw at it. With that confession, this blog post is a fun exercise to keep the nostalgic 1980s rivalry between Commodore and Apple alive.

I am not going to ditch my MacBook Pro and start using my MEGA65 Dev Kit full time; however, there are features of the MEGA65 that are better than a modern MacBook Pro. Many of these features are inherent in the system the MEGA65 is based on, the never released Commodore 65, and other features come from the MEGA65 development team’s hardware and software updates. And yes, before I continue, I can create another list where the MacBook Pro excels over the MEGA65, but what’s the fun in that comparison?

Before I begin, a quick MEGA65 release update. Several have made comments on past videos asking what happened to the Christmas release of the MEGA65 and questioning availability. First, the MEGA65 is now on track for a Spring, or Easter, release. In the MEGA65 teams own words from 2021-12-09:

HO HO OH NO! SANTA IS IN QUARANTINE! … Due to the current situation it is impossible for us to send out any MEGA65s in December. We are holding our breath for March. Please bear with us!

And Trenz is working frantically manufacturing and preparing our orders.

tl;dr version: We have been fighting shortage of electronic components for months and mostly succeeded. But now, last minute, seemingly trivial things like cardboard for your lovely printed boxes are unavailable! We most probably cannot ship before March 2022 and are truly sorry for this. The good news: We will then be able to ship larger quantities at once which means you might face close to or no delay at all. We will keep you updated and continue doing what we all, you - the community and the MEGA65 team, believe in.

There are positives to the delay. The initial shipment may be larger quantities than the 400 promised, which means, if you order now, you might be one of the first to have the Easter Bunny drop a shiny new, egg colored, MEGA65 on your door step!

Table of Contents

Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
10 ways the MEGA65 is better than a my M1 MacBook Pro
Conclusion
Join the Fun

Support the Blog and Channel

You can now support me via Buy Me A Coffee page with a one-time activity or become a full member via my fun Commodore inspired membership levels. When you support the channel you get additional content and fun extras. Check out the membership levels to learn more.

Thank you to these members for supporting me at the C128 level; making them retroCombs producers:

Companion YouTube Video

Title: _‌The MEGA65 vs MacBook Pro | Ten Reasons the MEGA65 is the Winner! _

In the video below, I share the 10 reasons the MEGA65 is better than my M1 MacBook Pro.

Video Errata

None as of 2022-02-17.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

10 ways the MEGA65 is better than a my M1 MacBook Pro

Let’s begin our list of the 10 ways the MEGA65 is better than my M1 MacBook Pro.

1. Boot Time

Commodore computers, like all early 8 bit computers, have fast boot times. I can’t think of any 8 bit computer that doesn’t beat a modern Mac to startup. Despite the M1 MacBook Pro booting faster than any other Mac I’ve owned, it can’t compare to the MEGA65. Flip the switch and two-seconds later, it’s ready to go. The MEGA65 boots almost as fast as the time it takes to hold down the power button on my MacBook Pro. Once booted the MEGA65 is ready to go; however, on the MacBook Pro after boot, you need to login and wait longer as the remainder of the operating system (OS) loads. Granted, the MacBook Pro is no slouch when it comes to boot up, but it can’t top the MEGA65.

What about reboots? No competition. Toggling the MEGA65 power switch is faster than using your mouse to find the Restart option in the Mac OS menu bar.

To reboot the Mac, select the option from the menu and Mac will shutdown and restart the entire boot up process. The MEGA65 includes a reset button. Tap it, and even faster than a power cycle, the MEGA65 is ready to go.

The MEGA65 continues the tradition of Commodore fast boot and even beats wonderful modern systems such as THE64 and my Combian pi/400. And the MEGA65 even includes fast system updates.

2. Fast Updates

The MEGA65 receives regular updates to both its Field Programmable Gate Array (FPGA) core and the closed ROMs. Prior to 2022, “flashing the core” was a slow process; however, a recent update increased core flash update speeds by 1809%! That is not a typo! You can check watch the comparison in the video below:

When the MacBook Pro receives an OS update, it means a multi-Gigabyte download, followed by a series of restarts. Even with the speed of the M1 processor, the update can take ten minutes or more. Prior to the updated MEGA65 flash utility, upgrade times were similar to the Mac; however, the MEGA65 now blows the MacBook Pro away. Even when I add the time it takes to download and transfer a core to the SD card, the MEGA65 process is faster. Update times will continue to decrease once/if the MEGA65 includes the ability to download the core directly using the built-in Ethernet port.

During the updates, we use the MEGA65 keyboard and there’s something special about this keyboard.

3. The Keyboard

Apple’s had a tough time with MacBook keyboards the past couple of years, but current MacBooks includes a fine keyboard; however, the MEGA65 includes a mechanical keyboard that is a pleasure to use and even better than the one on my Macbook. To quote the Museum of Electronic Games and Art (M-E-G-A):

Our friends at GMK have done an incredible job producing these uncompromising mechanical keyboards. Metal frames, cherry MX switches, four RGB LEDs, CPLD based bus system and other details make the best keyboards we can imagine.

Typing on the MEGA65 is a joy and while Commodore computers had better keyboards than many 8 bit systems of their time, e.g. Atari 400 and Timex Sinclair, there was room for improvement. The MEGA65 adds the best keyboard ever to grace an 8 bit Commodore computer and includes Cherry MX switches attached to a steel frame. Typing is comfortable, responsive, and clicky!

The layout of the MEGA65 keyboard is an upgrade to the Commodore 128 keyboard; but omits a numeric keypad. That space has been replaced by the internal 3.5” floppy drive. The MEGA65 keyboard follows the design and layout of the Commodore C65 closely but with an upgrade; both the CAPS and SHIFT Lock keys include an LED indicator not found on the prototype for the C65.

The MEGA65 includes two LED indicators at the top of the keyboard, one on the left and one on the right. The left indicator includes two internal LEDs (left and right) and can be color programmed in assembly or BASIC, via a POKE command. The LED indicator on the right is for disk activity. Imagine games that make use of the left LED indicator for application alerts or game accomplishments. Since Apple decided to kill their Touch-bar (which I love), these LEDs now allow the MEGA65 to provided visual feedback that current MacBook pros lack.

Because the MEGA65 team stuck to the original Commodore keyboard layout, your keyboard muscle memory is confused on the MEGA65. When typing symbols like ", @, (,), and =. With the inclusion of function and modifier keys, there are a lot of keystrokes to learn on the MEGA65 that are not going to transfer back to a MacBook Pro. But that’s a good thing.

We want the original Commodore keyboard experience for BASIC programming and immediate mode.

4. Immediate Mode, BASIC Programming and Text

The MEGA65 boots to a blue screen called the Screen Editor. At the top left of the screen is a color rainbow and in the center is copyright information that includes the ROM version, date, and time. A blinking cursor waits and without loading software, there are three things you can begin doing in this empty blue space:

Immediate Mode - Test BASIC programming lines of code or make calculations.

BASIC Programming - Use the enhanced MEGA65 BASIC version 10 programming language to create your own programs. It’s the best BASIC of any Commodore computer and software can run BASIC at a blazing 40Mhz using the BASIC FAST command or slowed down using the SPEED command. MEGA65 BASIC includes enhanced editing features such as page scrolling with the DIR W command and search and replace via the CHANGE command.

Text Mode - Use EDIT ON to activate text mode. When you do, the text on screen is no longer parsed by the BASIC interpreter and the READY prompt changes to OK. Use line numbers to organize the lines of text. To automate line numbering, use the AUTO 10 command (or other increment number). Save the text to disk as a .SEQ file using the DSAVE command. To recall the file, use the DLOAD command. If you want view a text file on disk, use the TYPE command. You now have a Commodore text editor at your disposal. Use EDIT OFF to return to BASIC mode and the READY prompt.

In order to do these three things on my MacBook Pro, I have to load a calculator, BASIC emulator (since BASIC is no longer a part of Apple computers, and that’s a shame), or a text editor.

Once an application loads, who knows if I will be able to get any work done once the MacBook Pro distraction begins.

5. Distraction Free

MEGA65 use is free of notifications. It’s you and the MEGA65. There’s no notification system to distract you. That’s a nice change of pace from modern computing devices that want to disrupt your life every two minutes. MEGA65 applications don’t lurk in memory and bug you when you are focused on another task. It’s a small thing we retro-computing enthusiasts appreciate about our 1980s computers.

You mean there are applications available for the MEGA65? Yep, and in boxes!

6. Boxed Software

At the time of this writing, the first boxed software, Hibernated 1 - Director’s Cut - MEGA65 from developer Stefan Vogt (Puddle software) and publisher poly.play was released for 35€/$37. The publisher describes it as:

Hibernated 1 - This Place is Death (Director’s Cut) is an Infocom style interactive fiction game. It’s a complete rewrite of the classic, award-winning Hibernated game using Infocom’s Z-machine standard, with tons of additional narrative content and riddles. If Infocom had been asked to recreate the classic Hibernated, the Director’s Cut would have been the outcome.

The shrink-wrapped box includes:

Director’s Cut features:
3.5” floppy disk
Cardboard box with slipcase (23 x 18.5 x 2.5 cm)
Mission patch
Developer’s autograph card
MicroSD card including disk images and more
Manual (DIN A5, English)
Quick guide “How to Play Interactive Fiction”
Stickers
Poster (Din A3)

These features add to the nostalgic feel of purchasing software. My copy is ordered and I can’t wait to open my box and dive in. Stay tuned for a full review and let’s hope this is the first of many boxed software releases for the MEGA65.

I don’t remember the last time I purchased physical software for my Mac. It’s all, “App Store this and App Store that.” While App Store convenience is nice, for games, I miss those little extras like printed maps, patches, and stickers.

Hibernated runs from a 3-1/2” floppy disk but, if you can’t wait for your MEGA65 to arrive, the SD card includes a .D81 image you can use with the Xemu Xmega65 emulator. Start your adventure now!

7. OS Flexibility

The MEGA65 includes an internal SD card and an external microSD card for auxiliary storage. An internal SD card serves as the default SD card. Inserting a microSD into the external slot overrides the default and allows for multiple ROM experimentation.

The MEGA65 includes 7 slots for cores. Cores are now available for the MEGA65, Gameboy, and ZX Spectrum with Commodore computer cores to come. Stay tuned for more collaboration with the miSTer community to bring more cores to the MEGA65. I’d recommend sticking to Commodore cores since the keyboard is better suited for these computers but the MEGA65 allows you to make that decision.

For a list of cores available or in progress, see What are “alternative” MEGA65 cores? | m65cores

Try downgrading or using alternate OSs on your Mac. The M1 chip does allow emulation, but the experience requires emulation software and complete OS installs and popular emulation software for Intel Macs are not yet supported on M1 Macs.

The MEGA65 core and SD card solution provides an interesting and authentic experience. Because the FPGA is programmable, each core can use and enhance the operation of the numerous ports on the MEGA65.

8. Ports

My MacBook Pro three ports. If I need additional connections, I plug in a dongle. Out of the box, the MEGA65 includes:

two 9-pin DIN connectors for joystick or mouse
cartridge slot for C64 cartridges
IEC connector for 1541/71/81 drives or printers
RGB connector for VGA monitor
Ethernet port for network connectivity
headphone jack for headphone or powered speakers

One of the three ports on my MacBook Pro is a headphone jack, there’s that! But the numerous MEGA65 connectors provide compatibility with older Commodore devices and new creations like the Pi1541 that simulates a 5¼ or 3½ inch floppy.

9. Built-in 3-½” Floppy Disk Drive

While the MEGA65 supports .D81 disk images (and soon other disk image formats like .D64), the MEGA65 includes a 3-⅓” floppy drive. This is something an Apple computer will never have again. There’s no room for it!

A 3-½ inch drive provides ample storage for your MEGA65 programs. Programs are tiny compared to their modern siblings and MEGA65 developer Paul is committed to pushing the limits of what is possible with a 3-½” floppy disk on the MEGA65.

He’s stretched capacity for the original 1581 drive from 800Kb to 2+ Mb! I don’t see Apple messing with firmware and the “kernal” on my MacBook Pro to push file storage on my internal 512 Gb to 1Gb!

But there’s another reason the 3-½” floppy is a nice addition and it’s the nostalgia factor.

10. Nostalgia

I hinted earlier that BASIC was no longer available on Apple devices by default and new Macs have no connection to their older 8-bit parents. The Apple II/Commodore 64 battle was won by Commodore. They outsold Apple and the Commodore 64 became the best selling computer of all time; however, in the end, Apple won the war and while you can say modern Macs have the legacy of the first Mac, there is no legacy system for the Apple II line.

The MEGA65 picks up the Commodore legacy and brings it forward to the twenty-first century in a way that is both retro and modern. TheC64 came close, but the MEGA65 is a true successor and when they ship, you will open the box, plug in the cables, flip the switch, and say, “Commodore is back, baby!”

Conclusion

As I stated earlier, this post and companion video was a fun exercise to help you learn more about the MEGA65. I can create several LONG lists where the Mac excels over the MEGA65 but that should not be a surprise. The fact that the MEGA65 has advantages is an indication that we’ve not come too far with computer technology to not recognize computing history’s past. If nothing else, I hope this blog post and video ramp up excitement around the spring release of the MEGA65. Even though I have a Dev Kit, I’m excited to see the final product arrive, in a box, with a manual, on my doorstep. The Easter bunny can’t get here quick enough!

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out [my other posts][21].

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at [retrocombs@icloud.com][22]. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

[21]: [22]: mailto:retrocombs@icloud.com

Upgrade TheC64 and VIC20 to Firmware 1.6.1

2022-02-04T00:00:00+00:00

TheC64 Mini, Maxi, and TheVIC20 received a new firmware version, 1.6.1 to start the new year. During a lengthy Sunday afternoon live stream, I updated both my TheC64 Mini and my TheVIC20 to see what was new. I opened the live stream with a “Vicky Twenty” motherboard unboxing. I’ll share more on this VIC-20 upgrade later in this post.

Before you read the rest of this post, look at my companion video below that compacts a one hour and fifty minute live stream to a mere twenty-minute shadow of its self but includes all the information you need to upgrade your TheC64 or VIC20. Read below to learn how you can view the entire live stream.

Table of Contents

retroCombs Producers
Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
Vickey Twenty
TheC64 Firmware Upgrade Live Stream
Join the Fun

retroCombs Producers

Thanks to these members for supporting me at the C128 level; making them retroCombs producers:

Companion YouTube Video

Title: ‌THEC64 and VIC20 Firmware Upgrade to 1.6.1 and a Vicky Twenty Unboxing

In the video below, I unbox a “Vicky Twenty” mother board and upgrade a TheC64 Mini and a TheVIC20 to firmware version 1.6.1.

Video Errata

None as of 2022-02-04.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

All TheRetro Links You Need in One Spot
TheC64 Maxi - Full size with working keyboard)
TheC64 Mini - Small but fun
TheVIC20 - Available in the United Kingdom
TheC64 Joystick - USB Joystick that works perfectly on a modern computer using the VICE emulator
TheManuals - Includes user’s guide not included in the box
The Hobbyist Guide to TheC64 - Most tips are included in the manuals linked above, but there are few extra hacks
TheA500 Mini - Pre order now!
Space Lords by RGCD.DEV - Get your copy if you don’t have a TheC64 or TheVIC20
The Vicky Twenty on Tindie

Vickey Twenty

As shared in the video, I have four untested VIC-20s with one “kinda” working. This will be a large project as I attempt to take the three non-working, the Vicky Twenty motherboard, a lot of de-soldering and soldering, to create another working unit. In the live stream, we chat about retro-brighting. Have an opinion? Drop it in the comments below.

For this project, I need to plan, purchase additional components and sockets, get a de-solderer, and a lot of time. I might live stream part of the process but will document it in either a blog post or video. I hope to have my new Portable Oscilloscope Multimeter - Pokit Pro on hand that’s been on a long journey to my workbench.

TheC64 Firmware Upgrade Live Stream

This video above is an edit of a much longer live stream. If you’d like to watch the entire live stream, check out this post:

https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs/e/54752

Members can watch for free and non-members can watch for a buck!

It’s one hour and fifty minutes of fun with great chat/interaction from viewers. In the lengthened version, you can watch the upgrades of the TheC64 mini and TheVIC20 from start to finish, including more system configuration and game play demos. Included, I talk more about my plans with the Vicky Twenty and my lot of 4 VIC-20s purchase.

Producer Jamie, shared this link to Space Lords, <Space Lords by RGCD.DEV>. If you don’t own a TheC64/VIC20 you can purchase a boxed cartridge version or download a copy for VICE or to run on an SD2IEC device.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual - Plus/4 Encyclopedia

2022-01-28T00:00:00+00:00

With the last regular Commodore Plus/4 User’s Guide chapters complete, we now focus on the last half of the manual. You read that correctly. Chapters 1 through 8 take the first 100 pages, and the Plus/4 Encyclopedia occupies another 183 pages of the user’s manual.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Before the blog post, I must add a HUGE thanks to Robin over at 8-Bit Show and Tell. He was extremely gracious to collaborate with me. He’s a rock star in the retro computing YouTube community and for someone like him to share screen time with me reinforces what a great guy he is. If you are coming over from his channel. WELCOME! I know my content won’t live up to Robin’s but I hope you will introduce yourself on the YouTube channel or in the comments below and let me know if you find something you like.

Table of Contents

Series Information
Companion Disk Image
User’s Manual
Companion Video:
Video Errata
Key to Keys
Introduction
Encyclopedia Introduction
Section 1: BASIC 3.5 Encyclopedia
- COMMAND AND STATEMENT FORMAT
- BASIC COMMANDS AND STATEMENTS
- MORE ON GRAPHICS STATEMENTS
- FUNCTIONS
- VARIABLES \& OPERATORS
- BASIC OPERATORS
Section 2: BASIC 3.5 Abbreviations
Section 3: Conversion Programs
Section 4: Error Messages
Section 5: TEDMON Commands
Section 6: Screen Display Codes
Section 7: ASCII and CHR$ Codes
Section 8: Screen and Color Memory Maps
Section 9: Plus/4 Memory Register Map
Section 10: Deriving Mathematical Functions
Section 11: Musical Note Table
Section 12: Programs to Try
- Line Draw
- Wolf Whistle
- Computer Maniac
- Telephone
- Busy Signal
- Bubbles
- Zap Beam
- Music Lines
Section 13: RS-232 Interface
Section 14: Books for Commodore Products
- Commodore Books
- BASIC Programming
- Machine Language Programming
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Series Information

This blog post and companion video is part of my larger Commodore Plus/4 series. You can read the entire series and view additional resources at:

</plus4>

Companion Disk Image

As I progress through the user’s manual, I enter and execute sample programs. The link below is to a .D81 image that contains every program from each episode.

retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image

I use the following file name convention to make it easy to locate specific programs:

Sample Program Name: 02 RCOMBS SCROLL.PRG

02 - The chapter number
RCOMBS SCROLL - my self assigned name for the BASIC program which will be immediately identifiable if you follow along.

User’s Manual

As part of my Commodore Plus/4 YouTube series, I work through each chapter of the Plus/4 manual. I’ve taken the time to scan each chapter. Use the link below to view the Encyclopedia:

Plus/4 Encylopedia

For previous chapters, view the Commodore Plus/4 Resource Page

Companion Video:

Video Title: ‌Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual | The Encyclopedia

In the video below, I share highlights of the Plus/4 Encyclopedia.

Video Errata

[2022-01-29] In the error message section, I discuss the variables DS and DS$. While not explicitly stated in the manual, DS stands for disk status.

[2022-01-30] LGB Gábor Lénárt shares in the video comments useful information regarding Commodore BASIC abbreviations. Check out his comment below:

BASIC abbreviations have no rules at least not in a way which many expects :). They are originally not even a designed/intended feature, it’s just exploiting a quirk how the tokenizer work and actually was realized later (even by the authors of the ROM!) that they can be used and can be useful. In fact you can use any abbreviation which makes sense and means what you want (the problem when similar names have similar first characters). For example DI+shiftR can be written as DIR+shitE, etc etc. It cannot be D+shiftI, but only because ‘DIM’ would match before DIRECTORY :) You can try, if you’re not sure about an abbreviation, like writing a tiny BASIC program: 10 DI+shiftM then list it, so you can see what it will mean. This is also a problem, since these abbreviations are not consistent through different Commodore BASICs, as new keywords would match you don’t expect from older BASICs. Like P+shiftO means POKE on C64 (V2 basic but also in V3.5) but it’s POT on C128 (V7 BASIC), just because the tokenizer found match first with that. Surely you can try to use then PO+shiftK.

[2022-01-30] 3vi1J wanted to take a deeper dive in the FRE(X) function. Upon use of the MONITOR he found the following:

I took a peek at the memory map, and BASIC RAM is from $1000-$FD00, which would be 60672 bytes. 60669 is shown as free (Editor’s note: at the start screen) because of the three zero bytes basic would contain by default for an empty program (one zero to show the first line is empty, and two zeros that point to the next line and are always zero for the last line). You got a lower value because the graphics RAM isn’t reserved until you executed the commands. So, it’s as I suspected - but it only lowers the available memory after you enter the GRAPHIC mode: https://i.imgur.com/2fjdYtN.png

Key to Keys

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations, as shown in the table below:

Key	Description	Key	Description
`⇪`	Caps Lock	`F1`	Function 1
`[C=]`	Commodore	`F2`	Function 2
`⌃`	Control	`F3`	Function 3
`⎋`	Escape	`F4`	Function 4
`⌂`	Clear/Home	`F5`	Function 5
`⌫`	Insert Delete	`F6`	Function 6
`⏎`	Return	`F7`	Function 7
`[R/S]`	Run/Stop	`F8`	Help
`⇧`	Shift	`␣`	Space
`↑`	Cursor Up	`↓`	Cursor Down
`→`	Cursor Right	`←`	Cursor Left

Introduction

Channel memberships are now available! Check out my Buy Me A Coffee page and support the channel if you found value in the Plus/4 series.
Don’t forget to subscribe to the channel!
A .d81 disk image is available here.

Encyclopedia Introduction

The first half of the Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual contains chapters one through eight. The Encyclopedia occupies the last half. Both halves are 100 pages. In this blog post and companion video, I will not cover the Encyclopedia in its entirety but will share highlights from each of the 14 sections. Afterward, I encourage you to explore each section.

The Encyclopedia includes a mix of beginner and advanced topics. The most useful section for the beginner, and the longest section in the user’s manual, is Section 1: BASIC 3.5 Encyclopedia. If you are new to Commodore BASIC or want to understand the upgraded commands that come with BASIC 3.5, review this section.

Section 12: Programs to Try includes BASIC code that explores concepts found in past chapters. I include them all on the retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image.

Section 1: BASIC 3.5 Encyclopedia

The BASIC 3.5 Encyclopedia is 51 pages long and provides an alphabetical listing of all BASIC commands. Throughout this series, I covered a majority of the commands and BASIC concepts; however, I will highlight those not covered or that deserve additional detail.

NOTE: This section recommends the Programmer’s Reference Guide for the Commodore Plus 4 (1986)(Scott Foresman & Co). Luckily, the Internet Archive has a copy to read online or download.

COMMAND AND STATEMENT FORMAT

Below is a sample command to describe a sample of the conventions the encyclopedia uses.

Example Command: DLOAD“program name”,[Drive#],[Unit#]

Breaking the command down:

DLOAD: command and includes an option for a program name, in italics, bookmarked by required ""
D0: a sample argument, or parameter, preceded by a , and bookmarked by [] which shows an option argument
U8: an additional optional argument preceded by a ,

Additional command conventions include:

** **: select from the list of limited arguments
…: use of multiple arguments
(): the argument must include the parenthesis

Additional important conventions:

VARIABLE: Data values that can change in code or via user input, such as X, A$, or T%
EXPRESSION: Valid combinations of mathematical functions or values to create a new value, such as A+B+2 or .5*(X+3)

Understanding these conventions provides clear insight to each command found in the next section.

BASIC COMMANDS AND STATEMENTS

Throughout this series, I show many of the commands listed in this section; however, below are commands in the sections BASIC Commands and BASIC Statements that I did not cover:

AUTO [#]: Toggles automatic line numbering. Using a numeric argument, such as AUTO 10, will number each line of code in increments of 10. This works while typing code. It does not renumber existing lines of code.

DIRECTORY "RC\*": Lists all files in a directory that begins with RC. Alternatively, DIRECTORY "RC?.PRG" includes the ? wildcard that will list for files such as RC1.PRJ, RC2.PRJ, etc.

SCRATCH "program_name": Deletes a file from a directory.

MONITOR: Enters the Plus/4’s built-in machine-language monitor. To exit the monitor, type X. The TEDMON has its own section later in the Encyclopedia.

TRAP 50: Intercepts an error condition and jumps to line 50. Used with TRON (begin trap mode) and TROFF (turn off trap mode). An example best shows the use of these commands.

NOTE: Not Disney’s TRON or his quirky brother, TROFF!

TRON
TRAP 50
PRINT "RETROCOMBS"
GOTO 20
PRINT "ERROR:";ERR$(ER);"IN LINE";ER

💾 On Disk: EN TRAP

HINT: Try adding a syntax error to line 30 and run the program again. You will receive a different error message.

MORE ON GRAPHICS STATEMENTS

Like a cursor in text mode that provides a current location, a pixel cursor (PC) identifies the position where a “next” pixel will be drawn; however, there is no visual indication. You can relocate the relative PC location using the command below:

LOCATE +10,-20: Move the current PC right 10 pixels and up 20 pixels.

We can use relative coordinates with other commands, as shown below:

DRAW 1,+10,-20 TO 100,100: Draws a line 10 pixels right and 20 pixels below the current PC to an absolute point at 100,100.

Distance and angles are possible, as shown below:

LOCATE 50;45: Move the PC 50 pixels at an angle of 45°. This is helpful in creating complex geometry.

An example best shows the use of these commands.

COLOR 0,1
COLOR 1,2
GRAPHIC 2,1
LOCATE 120,100
DRAW 1,+0,+0 TO 50;45 TO 50;135 TO 12
0,100
CIRCLE 1,+0,+0,10

💾 On Disk: EN LOCATE

The advantage to this technique is the ability to move the entire shape by modifying a single line, 40. Try it.

FUNCTIONS

The encyclopedia uses three function classifications: numeric, string, and other. I covered many of these in the earlier chapters and will not cover them all here; however, there are a few that are of interest and helpful.

NOTE: Use functions with the PRINT command.

DEC("FFFF"): Returns the decimal value of a hexadecimal string. Here, the value is 65535.

INSTR("RETROCOMBS","OCO"): Returns the position in the first string of the text in the second sting. Here, the value is 5.

JOY(N): Returns the position of either joystick 1 or 2 where N is the joystick number. Below is a sample program and additional information.

10 ? JOY(1);
20 GOTO 10

💾 On Disk: EN JOYSTICK TEST

Values Table

0 = Neutral | 1 = North | 2 = Northeast

3 = East | 4 = Southeast | 5 = South

6 = Southwest | 7 = West | 8 = Northwest

128 = Button Press | 128+ = Button Press + Direction (e.g. 129 = Button Press and North)

RDOT(N): Returns information about the pixel cursor (PC) where N is 0 for x position, 1 for y position, and 2 for color source.

`LEN(“RETROCOMBS”): Returns the length of the character string. In this case, the value is 10.

FRE(X): Returns the bytes of free memory available. X is a placeholder.

Functions are essential to programming as are variable and operators.

VARIABLES & OPERATORS

Commodore BASIC uses three types of variables found in other operating systems:

Numeric: Floating point variables are decimal values. When values are larger than nine digits, scientific notation is used. For example, the number 1234567801 will display as 1.23456789E+10.
Integers: Whole number from -32767 to +32768. The lack of decimals allows integer variable to take less memory.
Strings: Any character value. We’ve used these earlier examples such as, "retroCombs".

The computer holds values within variables. Variable types describe the type of variable as shown below:

Numeric Variables - A, A5, BZ
Integer Variables - A%, A5%, BZ%
String Variables - A$, A5$, BZ$

Commodore BASIC uses seven reserved variables, or variable that you cannot create, but can use, in BASIC programming. They include: DS, DS$, ER, EL, ST, TI, and TI$. Remember, there are commands you cannot use as variables either, including: TO and IF.

Of these, TI and TI$ are of interest. You can use these variables to read and set the internal clock that is reset each time the Plus/4 is powered on or reset.

The ? TI command will print a value that is based on the time, every 1/60th of a second.

Use TI$="120000 to set the 24 hour internal clock and ? TI$ to view the current value. The first two number are the time, the next two numbers the minutes, and the final two the seconds.

BASIC OPERATORS

I extensively covered basic operators in Chapter 5. This section serves as a quick reference; however, there is value in a brief discussion of three logical operators: AND, OR, & NOT. These are used to join multiple formulas in IF…THEN statements or with arithmetic operations where they are evaluated last (after +, -, *, and /).

AND: Requires both this or that. Example: IF A=B AND C=D THEN 100

OR: Allows either this or that. Example: IF A=B OR C=D THEN 100

NOT: Allows not this. Example: IF NOT A=B THEN 100 and below is a programming example:

A = 0
B = 1
IF NOT A = B THEN 50
PRINT "A IS EQUAL TO B" : END
PRINT "A IS NOT EQUAL TO B"

💾 On Disk: EN NOT

Change the variables in lines 10 and 20 to the same number and RUN the program again.

Below are two more examples:

PRINT 5 OR 7 returns 7

PRINT 123 AND 15 returns 11

If, like me, you find yourself asking, HUH?!?. The solution is in a conversion from decimal to binary for each value, execute the operation on each digit, and then convert back to decimal as shown below:

PRINT 5 OR 7
101 = 5
111 = 7
–––
111 = 7

PRINT 15 AND 123
0001111 =  15
1111011 = 123
–––––––
0001011 = 11

Section 2: BASIC 3.5 Abbreviations

Abbreviations shorten the time and keystrokes necessary to enter BASIC programs. The general convention is:

Commands with two characters have no shortcuts. Example: DO
Commands with four characters or less are a combination of the first letter followed by shift and the second character. Example: D_ for DRAW
Commands with five or more characters are the first two letter followed by a shift and the third character. Example: DI_ for DIRECTORY

Commands such as DLOAD (D└) and DSAVE (D♥) do not follow these rules. If the rule doesn’t work, try the rule prior or consult the table on pages 151→153.

Section 3: Conversion Programs

This section includes hints to convert “standard” BASIC (other than Commodore) to Commodore BASIC version 3.5. These tips are useful if you come from another platform’s BASIC; however, I’m not going to cover each section since Commodore BASIC is all I’ve ever know; however, there is a final section that in of interest; Reprogramming Function Keys.

Use the code below to reprogram the Plus/4 function keys:

FOR I = 1 TO 8 : KEY I, CHR$(I + 132) : NEXT

Function keys 1 through 8 now return non-printing characters 133 through 140 (see CHR$ codes on page 176) making their action compatible with the Commodore 64.

Section 4: Error Messages

Along the BASIC programming journey, there are always mistakes, and the Commodore Plus/4 tries to assist by presenting error messages that are sometimes helpful or bewildering. This section can help clarify those bewildering messages. Review this section if you are unsure what an error message is trying to convey.

There is an interesting function available that could be a lot of fun in BASIC if you want to prank someone or create a hacking game:

PRINT ERR$(#)

Substitute # for one of the error numbers in column one and the Plus/4 will print that error. For example, PRINT ERR$(26) prints `CAN’T CONTINUE’.

If you need help with a disk operating system (DOS) error message, they listed those on page 159→163 and contain their own reserved variables DS and DS$. Unlike ERR$, these two variables cannot be assigned, but you can use them to display the current status.

Section 5: TEDMON Commands

As a fun name amalgam of the TED chip and an assembly language monitor, they built TEDMON into the Plus/4 and includes an assembler and disassembler.

Machine language can create complete programs or as adjunct code to speed up BASIC code. I am not versed in Commodore computer machine code, or any machine code, but I know someone who is!

I reached out to Robin, over at 8-Bit Show and Tell and asked him if he had time to put together a video on the use of the TEDMON. He graciously said, “yes”. Not familiar with 8-Bit Show and Tell? You must live under a YouTube retro-computing rock.

I once called Robin my 8-Bit guru. I’ve learned more about retro-computers, primarily Commodore, watching Robin, than any other channel. His videos share interesting information, tips, tricks, and programming strategies. Get your degree in 8-bit computing by watching Robin’s channel and get started by watching his TEDMON video below:

If you want to get started in TEDMON, type MONITOR. The Plus/4 will immediately enter TEDMON. At first, the screen is intimidating, but even if you don’t program in assembly code, there are fun things you can do that I’ll share in Section 9: Plus/4 Memory Register Map. When finished, type X to return to the BASIC prompt.

Section 6: Screen Display Codes

The section highlights the Plus/4’s built-in character set, PETSCII. Additionally, an included table lists the value to POKE to screen memory (3072 to 4095). For example:

POKE 3072,1 displays an A in the upper-left corner of the screen. To display the same character one space to the right type POKE 3073,1. To display the same character at the beginning of the next line type POKE 3112,1. Adding 128 to the last value displays the reverse of the character. To print lower case characters, use PRINT CHR$(14) prior to the POKE command and PRINT CHR$(142) to return to upper case.

The program below prints all the characters:

SCNCLR
PRINT CHR$(142) : REM SET UPPER CASE
FOR CH = 1 TO 127+128 : REM +128 FOR REVERSE CHARS
POKE 3071+CH,CH : REM LOCATION AND CHARACTER
NEXT CH
PRINT:PRINT:PRINT:PRINT : REM MOVE CURSOR DOWN

💾 On Disk: EN UPPERCASE

Change line 20 to 14 to display the lower case character set. You cannot display both at the same time.

REMEMBER: ⇧ + C= keys toggles between upper and lower case mode.

Use the PEEK command to view characters in positions. For example, run the program above and then type:

PRINT PEEK(3072)

1 will display, showing A is in the first character position at the upper-left corner of the screen.

Section 7: ASCII and CHR$ Codes

This section has similarities to the previous section but provides a way to print characters using the CHR$(X) function, which we used in the previous section. The ASC(“X”) function can print the value for the character.

ASC("X") can assist to evaluate user input as part of a GET command while CHR$(X) can be used by program to “press” specific keys, change colors, flash, switch cases, etc. For example, the line below will turn on flash mode:

PRINT CHR$(130);"RETROCOMBS" prints a flashing RETROCOMBS

The next line will display the CHR$(X) code for the # character.

PRINT ASC("#") prints 35

At the bottom of the table is a list of additional numbers that are duplicate characters at higher memory locations.

Section 8: Screen and Color Memory Maps

In section six, we learned how to place characters at specific locations on the screen. The image on page 177 is a map of those locations.

We can use the second map to give each character at each location a color, as shown in the example below:

POKE 2048,2 : POKE 3072,1 will print `A` in the upper-left corner of the screen.

To flash the `A`, add 128 to the color as shown below:

POKE 2048,130 : POKE 3072,1

Finally, you can change the “luminance” of the color by multiplying the luminance value by 16 and adding it back to the luminance value as shown below to change A from red to pink:

poke 2048,2+(6*16) : poke 3072,1

You can replicate these functions with the PRINT command; however, using this technique has the advantage of being able to create the program below:

SCNCLR
PRINT CHR$(142)
COL = 0
LUM = 0
FOR CHR = 1 TO 255
POKE 3071+CHR,CHR
POKE 2047+CHR,COL+(LUM*16)
COL = COL + 1
LUM = LUM + 1
IF COL > 16 THEN COL = 0
IF LUM > 7 THEN LUM = 0
NEXT CHR
PRINT:PRINT:PRINT:PRINT:PRINT:PRINT

💾 On Disk: EN CHAR RAINBOW

This program prints all 255 uppercase characters at varying luminance values on the screen.

Section 9: Plus/4 Memory Register Map

Using the memory register map with the TEDMON is a great way to take a peek inside the contents of your Commodore Plus/4. First enter TEDMON by type “MONITOR”. M will list the first 12 lines. Pressing M again will display the next 12 lines; however, using the memory register map, we can jump to specific areas of Commodore Plus/4 memory by adding the hexadecimal address found in the map (minus the $ symbol).

M 80C8: Displays the beginning of Commodore BASIC 3.5.

M 818E: Displays BASIC commands.

M 846E: Displays DOS error messages

To convert the machine code to assembly at a specific location, use the Disassemble D command and the memory address as shown:

D 818E: Disassembles the first 12 lines of BASIC. Type D by itself to disassemble the next 12 lines.

M 1008: Beginning of user BASIC program. Give it a try. Type in a few lines of BASIC code, activate the TEDMON, and “memory display”, M address 1008.

Section 10: Deriving Mathematical Functions

This section explains how to create trigonometry and other mathematical functions when those functions are not available in BASIC. An example is the use of the COS function to create a secant function, as shown below:

SEC(X)=1/COS(X)

[UPDATE 2022-01-30] in the video, I have an incorrect line of BASIC code to define a function. The code should be:

10 def fn sec(x)=1/cos(x)

Thanks to Corey Minter for the correction!

Once coded in BASIC, you can use these new functions. I discuss functions in Chapter 5.

Section 11: Musical Note Table

I covered sound extensively in Chapter 8 and the table in this section provides a quick reference to sound register value and that values frequency (NTSC). For example:

VOL 4: SOUND 1,7,30 Plays an A note, on channel 1, at 50% volume, at a frequency of 110 Hz, for half a second. Substitute 7 with 515 to move up the scale on octave.

Section 12: Programs to Try

This section includes eight additional Commodore Plus/4 programs to try. They are simple demonstrations of the Plus/4’s sound and graphics capabilities.

Line Draw

GRAPHIC 3,1 : GRAPHIC 0,1
INPUT "SHOULD I CLEAN UP MY MESS";A$
INPUT "SHOULD I ROTATE";B$
INPUT "SHOULD I VARY MOTION";C$
INPUT "SHOULD I PICK THE START";D$
IF A$ = "Y" THEN DIM A(3,200)
DEF FNA(X) = INT(RND(1)*X)
IF D$ = "Y" THEN X1 = FNA(80)+80 : X2=FNA(80)+80 : Y1=FNA(100)+100
IF D$ = "Y" THEN Y2 = FNA(100)+100
IF D$<>"Y" THEN X1 = 80 : X2=80 : Y1=100 : Y2=100
GRAPHIC 3 : FOR L = 1 TO 3 : COLOR L,FNA(15)+2,FNA(8) : NEXT
IF C1 < 1 THEN COLOR FNA(3)+1,FNA(15)+2,FNA(8) : C1 = FNA(40)+20
IF C2 <> 0 THEN 140 : ELSE XA = FNA(11)-5 : XB=FNA(11)-5 : YA=FNA(13)-6
YB = FNA(13)-6
IF C$ = "Y" THEN C2 = FNA(10)+5
IF B$ = "Y" THEN XB = -XA : YB = -YA
IF C3 < 1 THEN C = FNA(3)+1 : C3 = FNA(10)
IF A$ = "Y" THEN DRAW 0,A(0,P),A(1,P),A(2,P),A(3,P)
X1 = X1 + XA : X2 = X2 + XB : Y1 = Y1 + YA : Y2 = Y2 + YB
IF X1 < 0 OR X1 > 159 THEN XA = -XA : X1 = X1 + XA
IF X2 < 0 OR X2 > 159 THEN XB = -XB : X2 = X2 + XB
IF Y1 < 0 OR Y1 > 199 THEN YA = -YA : Y1 = Y1 + YA
IF Y2 < 0 OR Y2 > 159 THEN YB = -YB : Y2 = Y2 + YB
DRAW C, X1, Y1 TO X2, Y2
IF A$ = "Y" THEN A(0,P) = X1 : A(1,P)=Y1 : A(2,P)=X2 : A(3,P)=Y2: P = P + 1
IF A$ = "Y" THEN IF P > 200 THEN P = 0
C1 = C1 - 1 : C2 = C2 - 1 : C3 = C3 - 1 : GOTO 100

💾 On Disk: EN LINE DRAW

Wolf Whistle

VOL 7
FOR L = 400 TO 800 STEP 20
SOUND 1,L,3 : NEXT
FOR L = 300 TO 600 STEP 40
SOUND 1,L,3 : NEXT
FOR L = 600 TO 300 STEP -40
SOUND 1,L,3 : NEXT

💾 On Disk: EN WOLF WHISTLE

Computer Maniac

VOL 7
FOR L = 1 TO 100
SOUND 1,INT(RND(0)*500)+400,4
NEXT

💾 On Disk: EN COMP MANIAC

Telephone

VOL 7
FOR L = 1 TO 5
FOR M = 1 TO 60
SOUND 1,466,1
SOUND 1,1020,1
NEXT
FOR Z = 1 TO 2000 : NEXT
NEXT

💾 On Disk: EN TELEPHONE

Busy Signal

VOL 7
FOR L = 1 TO 15
SOUND 1,466,20
SOUND 1,1020,15
NEXT

💾 On Disk: EN BUSY SIGNAL

Bubbles

VOL 7
GRAPHIC 1,1
FOR M = 1 TO 50
GOSUB 80
SOUND 1,900-R*20,(YR/2)+50
CIRCLE 1,X,Y,R,YR
NEXT : GRAPHICS : END
X = INT(RND(0)*280)+20
Y = INT(RND(0)*160)+20
R = INT(RND(0)*40)+5
YR=R/1.3
RETURN

💾 On Disk: EN BUBBLES

Zap Beam

VOL 7
FOR M = 1 TO 20
FOR L = 900 TO 850 STEP -10
SOUND 1,L,1
NEXT
FOR L = 850 TO 900 STEP 10
SOUND 1,L,1
NEXT
NEXT

💾 On Disk: EN ZAP BEAM

Music Lines

VOL 7
X1 = 0 : Y1 = 0
GRAPHIC 1,1
GET A$ : IF A$ = " " THEN GRAPHIC 0 : END
GOSUB 80
FOR L = 1 TO D STEP 2
SOUND 1,X*3,5
SOUND 2,Y*3,5
DRAW 1,X,Y
X = X + 2 * DX : Y = Y + 2 * DY
NEXT : GOTO 30
X = X1 : X1 = INT(RND(0)*280)+20
Y = Y1 : Y1 = INT(RND(0)*160)+20
A = X1 - X : B = Y1 - Y : D = SQR(A*A+B*B)
DX = A/D : DY = B/D
RETURN

💾 On Disk: EN MUSIC LINES

Section 13: RS-232 Interface

The RS-232 is used to communicate with devices, such as printers and modems. Software that uses these devices will include BASIC or assembly code to transfer data between the Plus/4 and the device; however, this section includes detailed information to use BASIC programming to access the RS-232 port. For more information on how to use a Commodore Plus/4 with a modern Wi-Fi modern, read my Connect a Commodore Plus/4 to a BBS using a Wi-Fi modem blog post.

OPEN 5,2,2,CHR$(22)+CHR$(5)
DIM F% (255), T%(255)
FOR J = 32 TO 64 : T%(J) = J : NEXT
T%(13) = 13 : T%(20) = 8: RV =18 : CT = 0
FOR J = 65 TO 90 : K = J + 32 : T%(J) = K : NEXT
FOR J = 91 TO 95 : T%(J) = J : NEXT
FOR J = 193 TO 218 : K = J - 128 : T%(J) = K : NEXT
T%(146) = 16: T%(133) = 16
FOR J = 0 TO 255
K = T%(J)
IF K <> 0 THEN F%(K) = J : F%(K+128) = J
NEXT
PRINT " "CHR$(147)
GET#5,A$
IF A$ = "" THEN 360
PRINT " "CHR$(157);CHR$(F$(ASC(A$)));
IF F%(ASC(A$))=34 THEN PRINT CHR$(27)"O";
GOTO 30
PRINT CHR$(RV)" "CHR$(157);CHR$(146); : GET A$
IF A$ <> "" THEN PRINT#4,CHR$(T%(ASC(A$)));
CT = CT + 1
IF CT = 8 THEN CT=0 : RV = 164 - RV
GOTO 310

💾 On Disk: EN OPEN RS-232

Section 14: Books for Commodore Products

Several books are listed, but few of them are Commodore Plus/4 specific. Some are available online with a Google search either as a PDF or in print:

Commodore Books

BASIC Programming

Armchair BASIC: An Absolute Beginner’s Guide to Programming in BASIC, Fox & Fox
BASIC Handbook, Second Edition, Lien
Basic Commodore 64 BASIC, Coan
Elementary BASIC, Ledgard & Singer
How to Build a Program, Emmerichs
Instant Freeze-Dried Computer Programming in BASIC, Brown
My Computer Likes Me When I Speak in BASIC, Albrecht
Nailing Jelly to a Tree, Willis and Danley
The Programmer’s Book of Rules, Ledin & Ledin
Technical BASIC, Kassab

Machine Language Programming

Final Thoughts

The Encyclopedia is an excellent compliment to the rest of the user’s manual.
That concludes my Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual series.
Should I cover the Plus/4 applications? Sound off in the comments below.
I will continue to explore the Commodore Plus/4. Be on the lookout for more content about this fascinating and misunderstood Commodore computer.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the fun, SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

Thanks for reading and watching and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs on your favorite social media platform.

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MEGA65 core and SD card testing live stream

2022-01-03T00:00:00+00:00

This page is the companion blog post to the live stream conducted on 2022-01-02. During that live stream, I install the latest .COR file on the MEGA65, look at the new and much speedier core (.COR) flasher, install the latest SD card files, download the latest .ROM, and review several sections of the onboarding SD card that will ship with the MEGA65.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Before you read the rest of this post, look at my companion video below.

Companion YouTube Video

Title: The latest MEGA65 updates and a speedier .COR flasher!‌

Video Errata

None as of 2022-01-03.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Additional Thoughts

This live stream was a blast. Admittedly, I wasn’t feeling it at the beginning of the session. I had a hard time wrapping myself around how I was going to work my way through these tests and maintain good interactivity with the audience while capturing notes. It was a matter of focus that I wasn’t up for on this day which leads to…
I was happy when two developers (Deft and Oliver) joined and were active in the live stream chat. It gave me the opportunity to focus on the live stream, the YoloBox Pro, and the MEGA65 while they answered questions from both me and other viewers.
As I stated, you should rush now to download you own copy of the MEGA65 book. It’s a great resource that I will continue to dig into for more great MEGA65 tips and tricks.
The core flasher update we experienced was amazing. Flashing the core went from a ten to fifteen minute process to ninety seconds! I’ll soon document the process to use the new core flasher and plan to share it in a follow up video or blog post.
As we discovered, using BASIC on the MEGA65 is a better experience than it was on any previous Commodore 8 bit computer, including the Plus/4 and the C128 that included enhanced BASIC tools, because of advanced editing tools such as:
- LIST P - pause a list of BASIC commands after each complete page and then top space to see scroll to the next page
- DIR W - list disk contents in columns to fill screen
- F8 or CTRL + B- Scrolls a long BASIC program listing up
- F9 or CTRL + V - Scrolls along BASIC program listing down
- F7 - moves forward a word
- F6 - moves backwards a word
- / - follow with “PROGRAM NAME” to load program from disk (physical or virtual) and as a plus, if you use this command in directory listing, you no longer need to remove the trailing characters after the “PROGRAM NAME”.
In this video, I shared how to change back from Commodore 64 mode to MEGA65 mode using SYS 58552
I showed the games section of the onboarding SD card in a previous live stream; however, I would like to dive into GEOS and then try to use the Pi1541 that I teased at the beginning of the live stream but ran out of time.
A huge thank you to Producer, C128 level member, Mislav for his generous Super Chat during the live stream!

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

MEGA65 Christmas Eve Livestream with Box Art and Onboarding SD Card Preview

2021-12-26T00:00:00+00:00

In this companion blog post to the edit of my Christmas Eve 2021 live stream, I celebrate the holiday and briefly lament about the MEGA65 delay; however, it becomes a great time as viewers share stories and I share previews of the recently released box art (suitable for cutting, which I do at the beginning of the video) and the onboarding SD card that will come with new MEGA65s. This edit includes new information and corrections.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

This post includes both the original live stream and the “director’s cut” edit. Before you read the rest of this post, look at the companion videos below.

Table of Contents

Companion YouTube Video
- Live Stream Edit
- Full Live Stream
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
Additional Thoughts
Join the Fun

Companion YouTube Video

Title: ‌MEGA65 Christmas Eve Demonstration | Onboarding SD Card and Box Art!

The video below is an edit of the full livestream (see second video) that includes corrections, updates, and new content:

Live Stream Edit

Full Live Stream

The raw full meal deal for those who want to experience the Christmas Eve stream in its entirety:

Video Errata

None as of 2021-12-26. The edit includes errata from the stream. If there are corrections to the edit, I’ll post them here.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Additional Thoughts

I’m sending a huge thank you to the MEGA65 for the box art and the onboarding SD card. I posted days earlier on the MEGA65 Discord I was going to live stream and they graciously made suggestions to make it even more fun and eventful. I’m pretty sure this is the first video to feature the onboarding SD card.
Huge Thanks to both Mark Dell and Mislav Krleža for the Super Chats during the live stream. I appreciate your continued support and you both deserve an extra special Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
The unedited live stream has more “after watches” than any other live stream in my inventory. Not sure I need this edit, but hope viewers will dive in and look at the new content, corrections, updates, and faster flow. May not be worth the day of editing. Consider this an experiment to help me decide if live stream edits are a valuable use of time.
During the live stream, there was a question about adding BBS software to the onboarding SD card. I told them I would make the request and recommended they include Haustierbegriff3. I did and here’s their response. Glad to see they plan to include this C64 software that takes advantage of the extra features of the MEGA65 including the Ethernet port.
Thanks to Gurce (Goor-Che) for setting me straight on the pronunciation of his name and sharing additional information about his MEGA65 BASIC game, Poopie. I include this information as pop-ups in the video but you can read the full thread here.
I’m becoming more comfortable with the YoloBox Pro but I still forget things from time to time–such as turning off chats. I would like an option to turn off chat displays automatically after a certain amount of time.
Be on the lookout for a blog post and video specific to using the YoloBox Pro for retro computing live streaming.
Speaking of chats, I need to work on the configuration of the window. Currently, they are too large. Hoping there’s an option to scale them.
I had a blast with the live stream. Enjoying Christmas Eve with fellow retro computing fans was a blast and was like spending time with your best friends talking Commodore computers back in the 1980s; unless, like me, you didn’t have any fellow Commodore fans in high school!
I created this companion post and video edit the day after Christmas and I’m happy to say, I have two weeks off and I plan to spend time on home projects, relaxing, and a few more retroCombs projects. I love the holidays!

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Patch the Original Commodore 65 ROM for the MEGA65, Xemu, Dev Kit, or Nexys4

2021-12-17T00:00:00+00:00

For those of us expecting our MEGA65 by Christmas, I have bad news. The MEGA65 is delayed until March! If, like me, you were on the short list to receive a MEGA65 before the end of 2020, looks like it will be the Easter bunny making the delivery instead of Santa. Here’s the official announcement from the Discord channel:

HO HO OH NO! SANTA IS IN QUARANTINE! But we make sure the Easter Bunny gets his booster vaccination. Due to the current situation it is impossible for us to send out any MEGA65s in December. We are holding our breath for March. Please bear with us! tl;dr version: We have been fighting shortage of electronic components for months and mostly succeeded. But now, last minute, seemingly trivial things like cardboard for your lovely printed boxes are unavailable! We most probably cannot ship before March 2022 and are truly sorry for this. The good news: We will then be able to ship larger quantities at once, which means you might face close to or no delay at all. We will keep you updated and continue doing what we all, you - the community and the MEGA65 team, believe in.

Am I disappointed? You bet I am; however, there are positives to this announcement (says the guy who always has a glass half full). Those who were on the second round of shipments will receive their MEGA65 at about, or on, the same date as the original first 400. If you want to receive one of the first shipments, stock is still available so you can be a part of the initial roll-out.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

While we wait, we have plenty of MEGA65 projects to dive into. I’ve shared earlier how to setup a MEGA65 on a Nexys4 for less than $300 and install the free Xemu emulator on a Mac.

In these projects, I mention the closed ROM for the MEGA65 is available to purchasers of a MEGA65 or Dev Kit and those who’ve not purchased a Dev Kit must “technically/legally” use the open ROM; which is not yet ready for prime time.

Since the open ROM needs time to bake (the last update was four months ago), using it means mixed results. We can search and download the original Commodore 65 ROM and then patch that file with tools created by the MEGA65 team until the MEGA65 arrives. In this post and companion blog post, I’ll show the process and we will see if we can go back in time and load the original in development ROM in the emulator, Nexys4, and MEGA65 Dev Kit.

Before you read the rest of this post, take a look at my companion video below.

Table of Contents

Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
The Problem with the Open ROM
Quick Commodore 65 Introduction
Obtain Original C65 ROM
Use the Original ROM
- Xemu
- Nexys4
- Dev Kit
Patch the Original C65 ROM
Use Patched ROM
- Xemu
- MEGA65 and Nexys4 FPGA
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Patch the Original Commodore 65 ROM | Use with a FPGA, Dev Kit, or Xemu

In the video below, I show how to find, download, patch, and use the original C65 ROM with Xemu, a Nexys4, and on a MEGA65.

Video Errata

[2021-12-17] Tayger shared the following: “…In the Version history of the diff files detail view you will find BDF and RDF patch file for the same version.” Let’s look at that in detail:

On the C65 ROM diff file page, scroll down to All Versions.
Click the v on the right side of the page. The RDF and BDF version history will display as shown in the image below:

[2022-05-15] Dan Sanderson posted a comment below noting changes since the original post. I have noted the changes. [2024-01-03] Ton Def emailed to let me know that the reference ROM is now 910828. I have updated this blog post to include this updated information.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

The Problem with the Open ROM

The Open ROM is an interesting project. A group of developers are working to create a license free ROM that includes the updates from the MEGA65 Closed ROM and its own unique features. This project is a work in progress and even a simple program like the one below does not work:

10 PRINT "RETROCOMBS";
20 GOTO 10

This caused many complaints from readers and viewers who wanted to install Xemu or build a Neyxs4 MEGA65. I get it. The Nexys4 is a $300 project and not having a working ROM does not scream, “value proposition.” Xemu without a working ROM is a simple exercise in frustration. Let’s fix that!

Quick Commodore 65 Introduction

The prototype Commodore 65, formerly known as the C64 DX, never entered production in 1991. A successor to the C64/Plus/4/C128, the C65 was to be the 8-Bit computer to rule them all, including a super speedy 3.54 MHz CPU and graphics that rivaled the Commodore produced Amiga. Unfortunately, the C65 never saw the light of day beyond the believed to be 200 prototype machines which leaked out in a clearance sale at the end of Commodore’s life.

History Reference:

Obtain Original C65 ROM

Owners fortunate enough to get an original C65 prototype have dumped the ROM file contents and shared them online. I’ll not link directly to the ROMs I found; however, below are steps to get your search started.

NOTE: As an owner of a MEGA65 Dev Kit, I own a license for the C65 ROM. I’ll share more on this topic below. [UPDATE: 2022-05-15] It has come to my attention that the C65 ROM is now part of Cloanto’s C64 Forever. I recommend every Commodore fan support this project and keep these ROMs available for all. I purchased the Amiga Forever package years ago and it is nice to know that I’m legal with the many emulators I’ve used. My one complaint, the software they include is for Windows.

Open a browser and navigate to your favorite search engine such as Google or Duck Duck Go (preferred).
Search for ~~911001.BIN~~ [UPDATE: 2022-05-15] 910828.BIN.

NOTE: The file name of the .BIN file is the date of the last official ROM; October 1, 1991.
If you find a page that has multiple C65 ROMs, download one with the specific name listed in step 2.
Make a copy of the file with the name ` 910828_archive.BIN` in case you need a copy of the original ROM file.
Place the 910828.BIN file on your desktop or in another easy to find location.

With an original ROM available, it is time to patch it and add the new functions of the MEGA65.

WARNING: Downloading and patching the C65 ROM files is a legal sticky-wicket. I share this process to educate the community; however, in order to use the original ROM, you must own a MEGA65, Dev Kit, or an original C65 (you have one in your closet, right?). Cloanto owns the rights to C65 ROMs [UPDATE: 2022-05-15] ~~but does not include them in their C64 Forever license~~. Because of this legal issue for an abandoned 30-year old computer ROM, I take no responsibility for your legal/illegal use of original C65 ROMs.

Use the Original ROM

I was curious to see if the original ROM would work in the emulator and on the two FPGA hardware options, the Neyxs4 and the MEGA65, and would modern MEGA65 software work with the original ROM? Are the MEGA65 developers honoring and respecting what came before in their upgraded version via compatibility? Let’s find out.

Xemu

Xemu uses the Xmega65 emulator. I’ve shared how to set up and use Xemu on a Mac in an earlier post; however, I will again share the process to use the original C65 ROM file before I test it:

Place the original ROM file on the desktop (or other easy to find location). There is no need to rename this ROM file.
Load the Xemu emulator, xmega65.
Right-click in the xmega65 window and a menu will appear.
[UPDATE: 2022-05-15] From the menu, Disks | SD-card | Update files on SD image . The select your ROM image file window will appear as shown in the image below:
Navigate to the ROM file location.
Select the ROM file and click OK. The prompt below will display:

System files on your SD-card image seems to be updated successfully. Next time you may need this function, you can use MEGA65.ROM which is a backup copy of your selected ROM. MEGA65 emulation is about to RESET now!
Click the OK button and xmega65 will boot, as shown in the image below:

Success! The original ROM does work with the software emulator. Let’s test it using a demo disk I’ve prepared from modern software created by various MEGA65 developers. As you will see in the companion video, every single title I threw at the original ROM worked and even Commodore 64 mode works! There is a high-level of compatibility between the original ROM and the updates the MEGA65 team is making to complete and add features. Bravo!

I have to admit, this put a huge smile on my face. When the original ROM booted, I felt as if someone magically transported me back to the Commodore headquarters in 1991 to experience the C65 in prototype form for the first time.

Nexys4

Now that we know the original ROM works with software emulation, will it work with the Nexys4 or MEGA65 Dev Kit FPGA? The process to update the ROM is the same for both FPGA boards:

Remove the SD Card from the FPGA.
Place the SD Card into a computer.
Rename the original ROM file MEGA65.ROM.
Copy the ROM file to the SD Card.
Eject the SD Card.
Insert the SD Card into the FPGA.
Turn on the FPGA.

In a pleasant surprise, the original ROM works on the Nexy4, as do several modern software titles.

Dev Kit

Finally, I tested the original ROM on my MEGA65 Dev Kit. I suspected the same result as the Nexys4 and was not disappointed.

Patch the Original C65 ROM

Using the original ROM is a vast improvement over the Open ROM; however, if you want the latest features of the MEGA65, the development team provides and option to patch the original ROM to include all the latest features of the Closed ROM. Here’s the process:

Download Patch Tools

There are a couple of ways to patch the original ROM; however, I’ll share the easiest GUI method using M65 Connect. Since M65Connect is available for Mac, Linux, and Windows, everyone can patch the C65 ROM. Let’s download a copy of M65Connect:

Use a web browser and visit the MEGA65 FileHost at https://files.mega65.org.
Click the Files button in the upper-left corner of the page.
In the File search… box, type M65Co and a list of M65Connect versions will display.
Click the download button |↓| in the row that matches the operating systems you use.
Install the application.

We are now ready to patch the original C65 ROM.

Download the C65 ROM Diff File

Return to the Files area of the FileHost in your browser.
In the File search… box, type ‌diff files and the ROM patch file named C65 ROM diff files will appear.
Click the download button |↓| and save the .BDF diff file in the same location as the original C65 ROM file.

Let’s patch the original ROM with the diff file.

Patch the ROM

M65Connect makes patching the original C65 ROM a point and click process.

Load M65Connect.
From the main menu, select File | Patch ROM File and the Patch ROM file dialog box will appear as shown below:
Select the Source ROM File by clicking the folder button 📁 to the right of the text box to display a file selection dialog box.
Navigate to the location of the original C65 ROM file named 910828.BIN and select.
Select the ROM Patch File by clicking the folder button 📁 to the right of the text box to display a file selection dialog box.
Navigate to the location of the diff file with a name similar to 920262.BDF and select.
Verify the names in the text boxes are correct.
Click the Save patched ROM as… button and the Save patched ROM file as… dialog box will appear.
Save the file as MEGA65.ROM and press the Save button and the new file will be saved to the same location as the two original files.

The resultant MEGA65.ROM file is now ready to use.

Patch Updates

When the MEGA65 team releases an update to the DIFF file, use the same steps found in the previous section to update either the original or the recent updated ROM. The MEGA65 development team announced that we will soon be able to apply the DIFF updates from the MEGA65 by copying the diff file to an SD Card and use the Freezer on a MEGA65 to patch the ROM file.

Use Patched ROM

Using the process outlined earlier to update the ROMs for both the software emulation and FPGA, it is time to see if the patch ROM works.

Xemu

Once again, I loaded my MEGA65-DEMOS.D81 disk image and checked C64 mode. The patched ROM worked without issues in emulation, but will it work on FPGA hardware?

MEGA65 and Nexys4 FPGA

Repeating the steps earlier to place the ROM file on the SD card for the FPGA, I loaded my MEGA65-DEMOS.D81 disk image on both the Nexys4 and the MEGA65 Dev Kit. As suspected, everything worked without a hitch.

Final Thoughts

In my experience, using a patched ROM provides the same experience as using the Closed ROM, making this a great option for anyone wanting to get started with the MEGAA65 in emulation or with an FPGA.
I should have shared this technique immediately after my posts on the Xemu emulator or Nexys4 FPGA. Apologies to those frustrated using the open ROM option on these platforms.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Adabox 020 Livestream with YoloBox Pro • LED Glasses

2021-12-05T00:00:00+00:00

Another Sunday, another ad hoc live stream. Today I setup a new YoloBox Pro, grabbed a package that has been on my desk since October, turned on the lights and cameras, hit the “go live” button, and began my unboxing and assembly of Adabox 020.

I did not advertise in advance because I wasn’t sure I had everything working on the YoloBox Pro; however, I was pleasantly surprised to find that everything worked the first time. I’ll share more about the YoloBox in the Additional Thoughts section, but for now, grab a drink, snacks and give the video a watch. As you’ll learn, the video makes great ASMR for your office or study. Afterward, read on to find all the links mentioned and read my additional thoughts.

Table of Contents

Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode
Additional Thoughts
Join the Fun

Companion YouTube Video

Title: ‌retroCombs LIVE: Adabox 020 | LED Glasses with Circuit Python

In the video below, I unbox and assemble the contents of Adabox 020 from Adafruit Industries.

Video Errata

None as of 2021-12-05.

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Below are the links and products I mention in live stream. All Amazon links are affiliate links. I’d like to offer a huge thank you for your support of the blog and the YouTube channel by starting your purchases here!

Adabox 020 - LED Glasses are a whole lot of fun.
LED Glasses Assembly - Not a difficult build.
YoloBox Pro Streaming Studio - Love this things. Read more below.
Sony ZV-1 Camera - I was amazed by the quality of this camera in low light during the live stream.
Logitech C920 Webcam - This five year old USB camera works with the YoloBox Pro!
IPEVO Document Camera - I’ve used this camera for several videos now and my favorite features is zoom.
retroCombs Supporters - They are the best!
Buy Me A Coffee - I can use the caffeine to keep bringing you more content.

Additional Thoughts

Must start with a thank you to Mislav for the Super Chat during the live stream. Speaking of Mislav, he asked that I cease with the ad hoc live streams and ensure I tweet in advance. I’ll do my best, Mislav, but no promises! 😄
I stayed away from the details of Adabox 020. I didn’t want to spoil the surprise, and I was not disappointed. LED Glasses! Not what I was expecting, but they turned out to be a lot of fun. I made a few assembly mistakes, part of the fun, but it was easy. The YouTube chat distracted me. At least that’s the story I’m sticking to.
I’d like to spend time with Circuit Python to change the default program of the LED glasses. I hope to do that in the next month. retroCombs scrolling from eye to eye would be fun as would a holiday greeting such as Merry Christmas.
Apologies to those who logged in hoping for MEGA65 content. That is underway and I have my script/companion blog post for the next video complete. Stay tuned.
Speaking of, follow me on Twitter for live stream announcements and other tweets about my retro computing journey.
The YoloBox Pro is an amazing streaming device; at least that’s my analysis after a single use. I own an ATEM mini; however, I made the mistake and didn’t get the streaming version. On its own, the ATEM mini switches cameras and is a good companion to OBS Studio; however, the YoloBox Pro is a step above. The device switches up to 4 cameras (3 HDMI and 1 USB), streams to a single or multiple platforms, and provides assets (lower thirds, images, scoreboard, video, and PDFs) for your video all in a portable tablet sized device. With battery power along with SIM card support, you can take the YoloBox Pro on the road.
For this live stream, I failed to connect the computer to share the Adafruit web pages. I have an extra HDMI port and need to connect to the Mac before the next live stream.
I’ll use both the YoloBox Pro and OBS Studio for live streams. They each bring unique tools to the table; however, I’m eager to try the YoloBox Pro in a remote location such as work or our local maker space. I’ve even had ideas of throwing in my technology bag when I have overnight travel for work.
Finally, thanks to the handful who joined the live stream and to those of you who watched afterward.

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FinalGrom 99 for the TI-99/4A Livestream

2021-11-24T00:00:00+00:00

Out of nowhere, on a lazy Sunday afternoon, and while preparing for my The FinalGROM 99 for the Texas Instruments TI-99/4A video, I took my FinalGROM 99 experimentation online with a livestream to troubleshoot 32 Kb memory expansion module sidecar issues and play several Texas Instruments TI-99/4A games. This is the companion blog post for the edit which removes over 45 minutes.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Before you read the rest of this post, watch the livestream below.

Table of Contents

Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links from Livestream
Additional Thoughts
Time Codes
Join the Fun

Companion YouTube Video

Title: Texas Instruments TI-99/4A FinalGROM 99 Livestream Edit

In the video below, I …

Check out the time codes at the bottom of this post for the contents of this livestream edit.

Video Errata

None as of 2021-11-24.

Links from Livestream

Below are the links I mention in this blog post and companion video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. A huge thank you for your support of the blog and the YouTube channel by starting your purchases here!

Additional Thoughts

A huge thanks to Mike Dell for the generous YouTube Super Chats! Mike used this YouTube option to grab my attention to request an extension to the livestream. His request included the ask that I play the TI-99/4A Axel F demo, which I originally thought was a game based on Beverly Hills Cop; however, it turned out to be a demo that was an amazing recreation of the Axel Foley theme. It was close enough that the livestream received a copyright strike! Unfortunately, this demo ended up on the livestream’s cutting room floor.
Answer this question. Is it “livestream” or “live stream?”
Another thanks to everyone who helped me troubleshoot the 32 Kb memory expansion from The Brewing Academy. The package I bought includes a TIPI, and I had to remove that device for the 32 Kb expansion to work during the livestream, which is odd because it was working prior. I have more troubleshooting to do. I’m hopeful I don’t have a bad TIPI board because that was an upcoming project.
This live stream is the first reveal of my new livestream screen setup (as shown in the video thumbnail. My goal was to provide views of the retro-computer screen, the keyboard, and my talking head. Feedback from the livestream attendees was positive. Leave your comments below or under the video if you have thoughts.
I enjoy playing games during the livestream but what I am learning is that I’m not as good as I was back in the early 1980s. I don’t blame age, though. I blame a 30 year hiatus from video game playing! It amazes me how many people enjoy watching others play games, but in my case, it is likely for the comedic value of my skills!

Time Codes

Below are the time codes from the video that serve as an outline to content:

00:00:00 - Thumbnail Screen
00:00:08 - Trying Out New OBS Screens
00:00:30 - Introduction to Live Stream
00:01:46 - Mark Arrives
00:05:28 - Jamie’s Hack Shack Arrives
00:07:34 - Beyond Parsec
00:08:15 - The FinalGROM 99 TI-99/4A Reset Button
00:08:28 - FinalGROM 99 Reset Button
00:09:27 - Star Wars
00:12:30 - My 32 Kb Sidecar Expansion Module
00:13:55 - Using BASIC to Test Memory Available
00:18:11 - Microphone Issues
00:18:41 - Troubleshooting the 32 Kb Memory Sidecar Expansion Module
00:20:32 - Verify the Correct Power Adapter
00:21:13 - Jet Set Willy Test
00:21:43 - Road Hunter Test
00:24:23 - CubicleNate Enter the Live Stream
00:26:29 - Number Bowling Test
00:26:55 - LEDs on the Memory Side Car
00:27:39 - Trying Memory Side Car Without Power
00:29:06 - Internal or External Memory Side Car Jumper
00:29:42 - Turning on Computer without Power to Memory Expansion Side Car
00:30:55 - Looking for Help on The Brewing Academy Webpage
00:32:06 - Locating the Power Jumper on the Memory Expansion Module
00:32:52 - Opening the Memory Expansion Module
00:33:12 - Mark Recommends a Memory Test Utility
00:33:42 - There’s Only One Case Screw
00:34:41 - Removing the End Cap
00:35:08 - Sliding the Electronics Out of the Case
00:36:27 - Jumper Found!
00:36:47 - Removing the TIPI
00:38:03 - 8 Folks Watching
00:38:27 - Success!!!
00:39:26 - No Kaboom!
00:40:37 - Testing Memory with Extended BASIC
00:43:08 - 4A DOS
00:43:30 - Need a TIPI!
00:44:21 - miSTer Discussion
00:45:58 - VCFMW Small World
00:46:54 - My TI-99/4A Unboxing Video
00:47:33 - Amiga Discussion
00:48:10 - Beige versus Black and Silver Models
00:49:12 - Adding Modern Components to Retro is my Bag!
00:49:30 - Chatting with Friends Over the Pond
00:50:32 - Age is Just a Number
00:50:45 - Atari Discussion
00:51:29 - My Brush with the 8-Bit Guy at VCFMW 21
00:52:27 - Atari ST or Amiga?
00:52:40 - TI Homebrew Games Demo
00:53:29 - Request to run the TI DEMO
00:56:26 - The YouTube Algorithm
00:58:53 - Titanium
01:01:22 - I’m taking requests
01:02:11 - Tutankham
01:03:55 - Is Chilsom Trail an Oregon Trail clone?
01:06:05 - Donkey Kong
01:08:04 - Jump Man! (Not a Game)
01:08:36 - Chat Lag!
01:09:06 - E.T. On Land
01:12:00 - Control, Alt, Delete
01:12:24 - Why Retro Computing in 2021 is AWESOME!
01:12:45 - Miner 2049ER
01:14:05 - Mark Buys an Extension!
01:16:24 - Axel F
01:18:04 - Thanks for Watching!

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The FinalGROM 99 for the Texas Instruments TI-99/4A

2021-11-23T00:00:00+00:00

In a previous video and companion blog post I took a look at the FlashROM 99 for the Texas Instruments (TI) TI-99/4A. This modern cartridge, combined with a SD card, provides access up to 171 game and application cartridges. As I’m new to the world of the TI-99/4A, I purchased the FlashROM 99. I had compatibility concerns regarding a “Quality Improved (QI)” version of the TI-99/4A motherboard. After a view of the main screen, I determined that I do not have a QI board. This means my computer can use the FinalGROM 99.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

FlashROM 99 and FinalGROM 99. This is going to be confusing!

After my look at the FlashROM 99, viewer and supporter, Jeffrey Phipps, sent a generous donation via BuyMeACoffee, that covered the cost of the updated FinalGROM 99 by endlos99. Jeffrey asked that I use the funds to purchase the hardware for the open source FinalGROM 99 and compare it to the equally open source FlashROM 99. I immediately made the purchase and am now making good on my promise. Thank you, Jeffrey! I appreciate your support of the blog and the YouTube channel.

Read below to learn more about the FinalGROM 99.

NOTE: If you’d like to see all my Texas Instruments related posts, check out </ti994a> for a list of all blog posts that include a companion videos.

Table of Contents

Companion YouTube Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
FinalGROM 99 Hardware
That Power Supply
Instruction Manual
Prepare an SD Card
- ROM Files
- GROM files
Get ROM and GROM Files
FinalGROM 99 Use
Compatibility
FinalGROM 99 versus the FlashROM 99
Additional Thoughts
Join the Fun

Companion YouTube Video

Title: All TI-99/4A Solid State Cartridges in one with the FinalGROM 99 | And a bunch of software demos!

In the video below, I share my purchase, demonstrate the use of, and share several games and software demos on the FinalGROM 99 from The Brewing Academy.

Video Errata

{DATE: 2021-11-23}

In the video, I say the FlashROM 99 SD Card reader extrudes from the case. I should have said extends.
There’s a noticeable audio hum in portions of the video. I corrected this error for future videos but did not go back and record new material. Hope it’s bearable.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in this blog post and companion video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel by starting your purchases here!

FinalGROM 99 Hardware

I purchased both the FlashROM 99 and the FinalGROM 99 from The Brewing Academy (TBA). The cost of the latter, $85, was a significant increase from the $35 cost of the FlashROM 99. I appreciate Jeffrey’s donation! Additional colors are available for $10, and I chose a tan color to distinguish the FinalGROM 99 from my black FlashROM 99. With shipping, I spent beyond the donation level, but this color modification was worth the few dollars extra. But, is the upgraded hardware worth the additional $50? That’s what we’ll explore in this post and companion video.

The case is a TBA 3D print and uses PLA. It has the familiar 3D printed layers. TBA includes a fun feature, the Texas Instruments and TBA logo on the top.

The case is solid and the TBA print is substantial. Two Philips’ head screws, that are not flush with the case, hold the case together. Like the FlashROM 99, I worry that these screw heads will scratch my TI-99/4A. The FlashROM 99 never did and I’m hoping this one won’t either.

Like the FlashROM 99, the label design on the front of the FlashROM 99 is nice but is pealing off. I continue my recommendation that TBA to find a different adhesive.

The PLA encases the electronic components. Insert the SD Card with a, “CLICK!” Press in on the SD Card to hear another click and it releases from the reader. The LED is bright, but the reset buttons are a concern. TBA made them from PLA and they are flimsy. It works, but could be more substantial.

Inside the cartridge is an open-source printed circuit board (PCB), with apologies to VeryFrantic (aka Perifractic) over at Retro Яecipes, designed by endlos99 who also developed the firmware. The primary feature of the firmware for both the FlashROM 99 and the FinalGROM 99 is to emulate physical cartridges from ROM files; however, the FinalGROM 99 has a few extra tricks up its port:

It offers advanced modes that provide RAM and GRAM to programs. It allows a running program to reload another program from SD card or to dump its state to SD card.

You can update the firmware for the FinalGROM 99 via the SD card; however, there haven’t been many updates and TBA provides the most recent version on the versions they ship.

That Power Supply

Before I discuss the FinalGROM 99 in detail, I’d like to answer questions I had about the power supply for my TI-99/4A. In the companion video that accompanies the My first TI 99/4A | A VCFMW 2021 Story blog post, I had questions about the weird extension cable and additional hardware attached to the stock power supply.

In a weird coincidence, Robin at 8-bit Show & Tell, discusses the weirdness of the power cable in his Optimizing Line Count in TI BASIC: Type-in Fun with the TI-99/4A - YouTube video. I encourage you to watch the beginning of the video since he did the groundwork to determine the rationale for TI’s recall and the decision to provide this patched up power supply.

Instruction Manual

TBA includes a printed 8.5 x 11 inch fold and stapled instruction manual that reprints the information found on the FlashROM 99 by endlos99 webpage.

I’ve used these same instructions to create my operation instructions below; however, my instructions are a complete rewrite to shorten steps and omit features geared toward developers rather than users.

Prepare an SD Card

The first step is to find a small inexpensive SD Card. After you purchase, or better yet, find one in your bin of spares, format it to FAT32. I will not cover this process, since there are many examples online for all operating systems.

There are limitations to SD card filenames. Character case is ignored and all files must match the 8.3 file scheme. The eighth character must always be a g for GROM files.

Whereas the FlashROM 99 used ROM files, the FinalGROM handles both ROM and GROM files. What’s the difference? I found a Stack Exchange What was the purpose of GROM (vs ROM) in the TI-99/4a? - Retrocomputing Stack Exchange discussion that does a good job describing the differences between ROM, GRAM, and GROM files.

In summary and per the FinalGROM 99 by endlos99 page:

…don’t rename cartridge dumps. GROM filenames must not exceed 8 characters AND must end in G. ROM filename must have over 8 characters OR must not end in D or G. For all images, there is always a main file that is used for help texts or RAM/GRAM configurations. For GROM and mixed images, the main file is the G file, for ROM-only files, this is the C file or the actual filename of a single-file image.

Time to learn more about ROM and GROM images.

ROM Files

ROM images are the binary files created from the TI solid state cartridges. Extracting the data places raw machine code into the file, which is commonly found in a .BIN format. These files can be up to 32K. Many image files require the use of a 32Kb Sidecar RAM expansion unit.

ROM Image files use a name similar to gameorap.bin.

GROM files

GROM images, “dumped” from solid state cartridges, can be single or multiple files. Below is a mixed image (ROM and GROM) with common image file names:

helloc.bin
hellod.bin
hellog.bin

In this example, the file helloc.bin is a ROM image up to 960 KB, the file hellod.bin is an optional ROM bank that is 8 KB, and hellog.bin is the GROM file which can be up to 40Kb in size.

Unless you plan to “dump” images files from cartridges yourself, you might wonder where you can get these files. There are two ways.

Get ROM and GROM Files

The easiest way to get an SD card full of compatible files is to add the $25 TBA’s 8 gb SD card for FinalGROM99 (FG99) TI 99/4a to your cart when you purchase your FinalGROM 99 from TBA. TBA will send you an

8 Gb micro SD & adapter card with 500+ files on it. All for FinalGROM99, some will require additional equipment (Disk Drives, 32K expansion, etc).

To source your own files, visit the Index of /Cartridges/FinalGROM99 page. Download the .ZIP file, decompress, and move the entire package to the root directory of your SD card. The FinalGROM 99, unlike the FlashROM 99, supports directories.

FinalGROM 99 Use

FinalGROM 99 usage is similar to the FlashROM 99:

Insert the SD card into the cartridge.
Plug in the FinalGROM 99 into the cartridge slot.
Turn on the TI-99/4A. The default screen will display with a request to press any key. Wait for the FinalGROM 99 LED to turn off before you proceed. It takes about a second or two.
Press any key and a menu will appear asking to select 1 for TI BASIC or 2 for FinalGROM 99.
Select 2. The FinalGROM 99 menu will appear as shown on the left in the image below:

^{Image Courtesy of FinalGROM 99 by endlos99}
In the example above is a list of directories. Select a directory by hitting the associated alpha-numeric character to the left of the directory and a new listing will display as shown in the right in the image above:

NOTE: You cannot use the arrow keys and ⏎ to make a selection.
If there are over nine ROM/GROMs in the list, use , key to move down a screen and the . to move up a screen.
To Select a title, use the associated alpha-numeric character on the left of the title.

The current ROM is always be the default ROM, even when you power cycle the TI-99/4A, unless you reset the FinalGROM 99. Use the instructions below to use a new ROM:

Power cycle the TI-99/4A or press Fn + QUIT (preferred) to reboot the computer. The default screen will display. DO NOT PRESS ANY KEY!
Press the FinalGROM 99 reset button. The LED will briefly glow as it resets the FinalGROM 99. When the light turns off, press any key and return to step #3 in the prior list.

Compatibility

In the companion video, I show several cartridge image files to test compatibility. The only images that did not work were those that required additional hardware I do not own and there were few. I rate the compatibility of this device with the image files as excellent. Not only that, but once you get the hang of using the FinalGROM 99, you can reset and load new titles quickly.

FinalGROM 99 versus the FlashROM 99

The FinalGROM 99 includes all the features of the FlashROM 99; however, below, I summarize the features of the FinalGROM99 that are not found on the FlashROM 99:

Reset TI-99/4A Button.
Use over 141 image files.
Organize image files by directory.
Support both ROM and GROM files.
Size of case is smaller and the size of Solid State Cartridges.
SD Card reader is flush to case.

For me, all these differences make the FinalGROM 99 worth the additional $50; however, if you are on a budget, the FlashROM will work for most game titles if that’s your priority.

Additional Thoughts

I enjoyed this trip down my TI-99/4A journey. Working on this project taught me even more about this computer I never experience in my youth.
I have a love hate relationship with the keyboard. The keys feel outstanding. I enjoy hitting the keys and my typing of alpha-numeric keys is faster and more accurate on the TI than a Commodore VIC-20 or 64. Yes, the keyboard layout is frustrating and how in the world did TI think the exclusion of a ⌫ key and dedicated cursor keys was a good idea? Sound off in the comments below!
Thanks to the folks on the live stream who helped me troubleshoot my problems with my 32 Kb memory expansion sidecar (shout out to Mark Dell!). I was having problems loading files from the FinalGROM 99 and it turned out to be an issue with my memory expansion. I’ll post an edit of that live stream soon if you have an interest in how we fixed it.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Install the MEGA65 on a Nexys4 or A7 FPGA | Build your own MEGA65!

2021-11-09T00:00:00+00:00

The MEGA65 is AVAILABLE! That was the virtual shout during early October 2021. The first 400, of which I snagged one, will ship late December, while another batch of 1000 will ship during Q2 of next year. As of this writing, there are a few available. At around $850 USD, these pre-orders may be out of reach of some early adopters. If that’s the case, there are two ways you can begin your MEGA65 journey while production increases and costs decrease during the next couple of years.

The first option I’ve covered; Run a MEGA65 on your Mac using Xemu (or Linux/PC). This software solution has the advantage of being a free solution and I recommend it for anyone curious about the MEGA65 project. It is a great way to get started; however, if you want to build a hardware solution that costs less than a Dev Kit or original release models, you can purchase a Nexys A7-100T FPGA Trainer Board for ≈$270; or less if you are a student or educator. Once you have this FPGA training board in hand, what’s next? I’ll cover that in this post and show you how to configure and use the board as a MEGA65.

Before you read the rest of this post, look at my companion video below.

** Table of Contents **

YouTube Video: Install a MEGA65 Bitstream on a Digilent Nexys4 FPGA
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
MEGA65 Developer’s Guide
Summary of Build Steps
Nexys FPGA Versions
Unbox the Nexys4
Nexys4 A7 Anatomy Primer
- Micro USB
- Power Supply
Input/Output (I/O) Devices
Use the Nexys4 Self-Test
Prepare a microSD Card
Operating the MEGA65 on the Nexys4
Basic Nexys4 Use
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

YouTube Video: Install a MEGA65 Bitstream on a Digilent Nexys4 FPGA | Build your own MEGA65!

In the video below, I show the process to install and use a MEGA65 bitstream on a Digilent Nexys4 FPGA.

Read the blog post below for detailed information.

Video Errata

None as of 2021-11-09.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links.

MEGA65 Developer’s Guide

The MEGA65 Developer Guide is part of a series of MEGA65 user guides. With a focus on the tools and techniques programmers need to develop MEGA65 software, Chapter 16 includes instructions to build a MEGA65 using a Nexys Field Programmable Gate Array (FPGA). Prior to the MEGA65 Dev Kit and the MEGA65, bitstream development occurred on FPGA boards. These boards share a Xilinx™ Artix A7 found in the Dev Kit and the MEGA65.

Because of the similarities, bitstream releases are concurrent with the Dev Kit and the MEGA65. You can purchase a Nexys, load a bitstream and files on a SD card, and build your own MEGA65; albeit without a case, floppy drive, and ports. There are other limitations, but if you want a hardware device to play on while you wait for your MEGA65 to arrive, this is an option. Let’s build a MEGA65 by selecting an appropriate FPGA board.

Summary of Build Steps

This blog post has significant detail. Below are the summarized steps to the process:

Purchase Nexys hardware.
Acquire a compatible keyboard (Dell LT100).
Format an 8Gb microSD card to FAT32.
Download the Nexys bitstream from the FileHost.
Copy the bitstream to the root directory of the microSD card.
Insert the microSD card into the Nexys.
Connect the keyboard, video, audio, and power supply (either 9V barrel or microUSB port).
Boot the bitstream to test the system and the MEGA65 onboarding screen will appear if operational.
Turn off the Nexys.
Turn on the computer while holding the ⌥ (ALT) key on the keyboard until the MEGA65 Utility Menu Displays.
Select the SD CARD FDISK+FORMAT UTILITY option and follow the prompts.
Eject the microSD card.
Download a .ROM file (rename the file MEGA65.ROM), SD Card Essentials (extract the .rar file), and the BASIC.D81 file from the FileHost.
Place the files above and the bitstream on the root directory of the microSD card.
Boot the Nexys with the SD card.

Those steps outline a high-level summary. Below are the details.

Nexys FPGA Versions

There are three Nexys FPGA boards that support the MEGA65 bitstream (more on bitstreams later):

Nexys4 - discontinued and available in limited numbers.
Nexys4DDR - discontinued and available in limited numbers.
Nexys A7 - readily available, updated, and rebranded version of #1.

I’ll demonstrate install on the Nexys4 that I was able to buy from Digilent for ≈$200. Setup for all three versions is identical.

Unbox the Nexys4

The Nexys4 comes in a plastic case similar to a DVD case but thicker. The case includes the Nexys4 and a micro USB cable. It does not include instructions. Those are available online as I discuss in the section below.

Nexys4 A7 Anatomy Primer

Before using the MEGA65 bitstream on the Nexys4, it is important to understand the input/output (I/O) features of the hardware necessary for this project. These components are as shown in the image below.

I will not cover every hardware feature. See the Nexys A7 Reference Manual, which I used as a reference.

Micro USB

The micro USB port provides two functions: power and a serial connection. This project will use the micro USB port to provide power to the Nexys4 since I don’t have an external power supply. I won’t cover the serial connection; however, this port can connect the Nexys4 to a Mac or PC using M65 Connect or the MEGA65 command-line tools to manage and control the MEGA65.

Power Supply

You can provide power to the board using a micro USB port, a barrel jack, or a battery:

Micro USB port - Use a USB power supply that provides 4.5VDC to 5.5VDC and at least 1A. For this project, use 2 to 3A as reading the SD card may require additional power to operate reliably.
Barrel Jack - Use a power supply with a coax, center-positive 2.1mm internal-diameter plug that delivers 4.5VDC to 5.5VDC and at least 1A.
Battery - Maximum voltage is 5.5VDC. The minimum voltage depends on the application. USB host function (J5) requires at least 4.6V. Other applications may require the minimum voltage of 3.6V.

I used the micro USB port with a Kano Kit wall wart. The specifications are below:

Input: 100-240 VAC 50/60Hz 0.6A Max
Output: 5.25V 2.5A
Model: 16445001-02B

Jumper JP3 selects USB as the power source as shown below:

Input/Output (I/O) Devices

The Nexys4 includes a slide switches, a USB port for HID keyboard/mouse devices, VGA for video out, and a 3.5mm jack for audio.

Slide Switches

This project does not require the use of slide switches at the bottom of the board; however, ensure all switches are in the down position, or away from the LED display as shown in the image below:

USB Keyboard

Finding a USB keyboard that works with the Nexys4 is the hardest part of this project. While researching this project on the MEGA65 Discord, the recommendation was to use the “cheapest,” “dirtiest,” “nastiest” Dell keyboard I could find. Mechanical keyboards do not work, nor do keyboards with track pads or USB hub ports. The following keyboards did NOT work:

Monoprice MP-M10B
Unicomp M
KeyChron K2
Aukey KM-G9
Kano KC-KBR101
Generic Handheld RT-MWK01

My penchant for mechanical keyboards was a detriment to this project. Searching through a recycle bin, I found two Dell keyboards:

L100
KB216t

The Dell L100, shown below, worked while the KB216t provided the same non-working result of the previous six make and models.

NOTE: Discord user Lydon is asking everyone to share the keyboards that work, or don’t, to compile a list. The process is simple, but you will need a *NIX OS and use the lsusb command. Lydon describes the process in his post.

VGA Device

A VGA port provides video out. You can connect this port to a VGA monitor or a capture device. I used a Black Magic Design ATEM Mini with VGA to HDMI adapter to capture video for the companion blog post as shown in the image below:

Audio

A 3.5 mm audio jack provides audio out. This can be a headphone, powered speaker, or capture device. I can use either the ATEM mini or my VGA to HDMI adapter to capture the audio.

Use the Nexys4 Self-Test

Before installation of the MEGA65 bitstream, test the board to make sure it is operational. To use the on-board Nexys4 self-test, and with the Nexys4 off, move the pin on the external configuration jumper (SD/USB) to USB as shown in the image below:

Turn on the Nexys4 and the self-test will display as shown in the image below:

The reference manual lists the self-test functions below:

The VGA port displays feedback from the onboard microphone, temperature sensors, accelerometer, RGB LEDs, and USB Mouse.
The user LEDs illuminate when the corresponding user switch is on.
Some user buttons control the tricolor LEDs. Pressing BTNL, BTNC, or BTNR causes them to illuminate either red, green, or blue, respectively. Pressing BTND cycle through the colors. Repeatedly pressing BTND will turn the two LEDs on or off.
Pressing BTNU will trigger a 5 second recording from the onboard PDM microphone. A mono audio out port replays the audio. User LEDs display the status of the recording and playback. DDR2 memory is used to store the recordings.
Connecting a mouse to the USB-HID Mouse port allows the pointer on the VGA display to be controlled. The board only supports mice compatible with the boot mouse HID interface.
The seven-segment LEDs display a moving snake pattern.

Prepare a microSD Card

With operational hardware, the next step is to prepare a microSD that will boot the Nexys4 with the MEGA65 bitstream. The first step is to format the microSD.

Format a microSD Card

Consult your OS for specific instructions, but below an outline of the process on a Mac computer.

Insert a microSD card into your Mac.
Open the Disk Utility application.
Format the microSD card as a single FAT32 partition.
The name of the microSD card is unimportant, but consider “NEXYS4-C65”.
Do not remove the microSD card from the computer.

The microSD can now ready for a bitstream file.

Download the MEGA65 bitstream

A bitstream is the data to load into a field-programmable gate array (FPGA) to configure the Nexys4 hardware as a MEGA65. Download the latest version of the bitstream from the MEGA65 FileHost.

Copy the bitstream to microUSB

Copy the bitstream to the root directory of the microSD card. Ensure there are no other files on the microSD card. Later, we will format this same microSD card and add files to create a boot disk. Keep a copy of the bitstream on the computer. You will need it later.

Boot the bitstream

Use the bitstream to boot the Nexys4 with the instructions below:

Place the microSD card into the Nexys4 microSD card reader.
Plug in a USB keyboard.
Connect a VGA display device.
Connect a micro USB cable connected to a power supply to the micro USB port.
Turn on the Nexys4 and the MEGA65 on-boarding screen below will display. This screen verifies the MEGA65 is operational.
Turn off the Nexys4.

NOTE: If the screen below appears in a continual loop, try a different microSD.

With an operational MEGA65 Nexys4 bitstream, we can now format the micro SD Card for MEGA65 use.

Format a microSD on the MEGA65

Use the steps below to boot the MEGA65 Utility Menu and format the micro SD card:

Turn off the Nexys4.
Hold the ALT key on the keyboard.
Turn on the Nexys4.
Release the ALT key when the Utility menu loads as shown below:
Select the SD CARD FDISK+FORMAT UTILITY menus option by hitting 2 on the keyboard. Type 0 to select the micro SD card.
Type DELETE EVERYTHING + ⏎ to verify the format option
Once the format process is complete, turn off the Nexys4. Ignore the restart options on the menu. The micro SD care can no longer boot the Nexys4 because it is empty and without a bitstream.
Remove the microSD card from the Nexys4.

The microSD card has two partitions; One hidden and used by the MEGA65 to store configuration files, and another that is user accessible to store SD Card Essentials, a .ROM file, and .D81 disk images.

Copy files to micro SD card

Move to a computer and copy the required files using the steps below:

Insert the microSD card in a Mac or PC.
Download the following files:
- SD Card Essentials
- MEGA65 OPEN ROM or C65-MEGA65 Kernal ROM (Requires Dev Kit or MEGA65 purchase.
- A .D81 disk image. I recommend BASIC.D81 that contains all BASIC examples from the MEGA65 BASIC 65 Command Reference.
Copy the bitstream downloaded earlier to the root directory of the microSD card.
Decompress the SD Essentials .rar file.
Copy all the files to the root directory of the microSD card.
Rename the file ROM file to MEGA65.ROM.
Copy the MEGA65.ROM file to the root directory of the microSD card.
Copy the BASIC.D81 file to the root directory of the microSD card.
Eject the microSD card from the computer.

The microSD card is now ready to use in the Nexys4.

Boot the Nexys with the microSD card

Everything is prepared to boot the Nexys4 as a MEGA65 using the steps below:

Insert the microSD card into the Nexys4 microSD card reader.
Use the power switch to turn on the Nexys4 FPGA. The Nexys4 will boot and after a few seconds will display the screen below:

Operating the MEGA65 on the Nexys4

Using the MEGA65 isn’t an intuitive experience. There are several hardware controls the new user needs to know to use the MEGA65. I’ll cover these next.

USB-Keyboard Key Mapping

Using a PC keyboard to emulate a Commodore keyboard can be a frustrating experience. This is one reason that the Dev Kit and MEGA65 provide an exceptional user experience that recreates official 1980s computing. There is something you can do to make the experience better.

If you plan to use this setup long term. I recommend you purchase these 4Keyboard brand Commodore 64 keyboard stickers. I use them on my Combian pi/400 and they serve as a reminder of the keys needed to use colors/PETSCII or other Commodore functions not found on modern keyboards.

Below are important U.S. keyboard mappings you need to get started using the MEGA65 on the Nexys4 since the original Commodore key mappings are not the same as modern keyboard mappings:

PC Key	MEGA65 Function
PAGE UP	RESTORE
ESC	RUN/STOP
WINDOWS	MEGA
`	←
@	”
^	&
&	’
*	(
(	)
=	-
[	@
]	*
\	=
;	:
’	;
DEL	↑
INS	£
F1	40/80 Column Mode
F3	Directory
Shift-F3	DIR “*=PRG”
F5	Forward a Word
F7	Back a Word
Shift-F7	Monitor
F12	Delete
NUM Lock	Activate WASD Joystick Mode

On-screen Keyboard

Useful for the MEGAPhone development, the MEGA65 bitstream includes an on-screen keyboard that is useful for the MEGA65.

^{Image Courtesy: MEGA65 Blog Post}

The virtual keyboard will display keyboard mappings when you use a U.S. keyboard layout. There are two ways to activate the on-screen keyboard:

Configuration Mode

Hold the [ALT] key and turn on the power or press the PROG micro-switch on the Nexys4 board.
Choose option 3 when the Configuration Menu displays.

The virtual keyboard shown in the image below will display.

Immediate Mode Keyboard

Boot the MEGA65 bitstream on the Nexys4.
Hold the [MEGA] key (or Windows key on a Dell keyboard) and press [TAB]. The Matrix Mode Debugger will appear.
Use one of the two commands below to display a semi-transparent virtual keyboard:
- s ffd3615 ff + ⏎ – display the keyboard at the top of the screen
- s ffd3615 ff ff + ⏎ – display the keyboard at the center of the screen
Press [MEGA] + [TAB] to exit the Matrix Mode Debugger and you will have an overlay of the keyboard as you type, as shown in the image below:
To hide the virtual keyboard, press [MEGA] + [TAB] and type the command s ffd3615 7f + ⏎ followed by another [MEGA] + [TAB]. Huge thanks to Paul for this one!

The virtual keyboard, and the Matrix Mode Debugger have display issues. The screen overlaps the right and left side, as shown in the image above. Checking in with Paul again, he shared:

“Yes, this is a known problem. It was designed for 800 wide on the handheld, not 720 of the desktop.”

FPGA Micro-Switch Controls

There are seven onboard micro-switches and we use the three shown below for the MEGA65 implementation:

CPU RESET - Resets the FPGA with the current bitstream and does not clear FPGA memory contents.
PROG - Resets the FPGA, clears FPGA memory contents, and reloads the current bitstream.
BTND - [RESTORE] key alternative

We won’t use the other buttons, but will use these three to operate the MEGA65.

Joystick Emulation

There is no joystick port on the Nexys4, but the bitstream provides joystick emulation via the keyboard using the steps below:

Press the [NUM LOCK] key on the keyboard
Joystick #1 controls use the WASD format; W = ↑, A = ←, S= ↓, and D = →. The left shift key or 0 on the num pad = fire button.
Joystick #2 uses the cursor keys and the cursor keys on the num pad. Space ␣ = fire button.

Basic Nexys4 Use

With a bitstream on the Nexys4 and an understanding of how to operate the device, watch the companion video for a demonstration of ways to use the MEGA65 to run your favorite Commodore 64 software or new MEGA65 software from the FileHost.

Final Thoughts

If you build your own Nexys4 based MEGA65 and you have questions, please join me over on the MEGA65 Discord on the #nexys channel. I will do my best to answer questions, as will the rest of the community.
Getting the MEGA65 bitstream working on the Nexys4 was a journey. It started with a YouTube livestream, where I had lots of help troubleshooting the keyboard, to this complete set of instructions and companion video. It’s been a blast.
What’s next you ask? You didn’t? I have an answer. I have another project planned with this Nexys4. It’s ambitious, but hope to finish it in the coming months.
The Nexys4, and the MEGA65, have PMOD ports. These ports provide hardware additions and I’d love to see a joystick port addition.
Why would I install a MEGA65 bitstream on a Nexys4 when I have a MEGA65 Dev Kit and a MEGA65 on the way? You sure are full of questions today! The answer is, to understand the entire hardware experience. The Nexys4 was the original development board. Working through this exercise gives me the full gamut of hardware experiences. A perk for the reader is that users who don’t have a Dev Kit or feel the MEGA65 is not within their financial resources, now have a less expensive hardware option to learn and experiment with while they save or wait for a MEGA65 price drop.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Install a MEGA65 Bitstream on Nexys A7 FPGA: the Livestream

2021-10-25T00:00:00+00:00

Another Sunday, another livestream and instead of a TI-99/4A topic, I returned to a project that’s been on the back burner for a long time; installing the MEGA65 Bitstream on a Diligent Nexys4 field programmable gate array (FPGA). A MEGA65 livestream would do double duty and make supporter Mislav happy. He’s asked for new MEGA65 content for a while. Here ya go Mislav; this one’s for you.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

You can check out the livestream below and afterward, read the rest of this companion blog post to learn more.

YouTube Video: Install a MEGA65 Bitstream on a Digilent NEXYS4 | Everything works but the keyboard!

In the livestream video below, I attempt to install a MEGA65 Bitstream on a Nexys4 FPGA.

Video Errata

None as of 2021-10-25.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Livestream Thoughts

Below are additional thoughts about the livestream content:

I did not intend to livestream. It was a rainy 2021-10-24 and my plan was to go to my workbench and try the install while preparing a comprehensive blog post and begin filming a retroCombs episode. When I got to my workbench, I live-streamed the process. I’m glad I did!
I will finish the official retroCombs episode and companion blog post that documents the process, but live-streaming first gave me the opportunity to learn more about the Nexys4 than I could have learned by myself. Why? Continue reading.
I posted my intent to livestream on both Twitter and the MEGA65 Discord Channel. 10 minutes later I was live-streaming and viewer joined the channel. Stalwart viewers, Jamie and Mislav, arrived, and then a host of unfamiliar names appeared in the chat room. The MEGA65 topic caught their attention.
Through out the install, everything was smooth except I could not get a keyboard working. I tried five of them. MEGA65 developers joined the livestream to assist and no matter what we tried to correct the keyboard issue, none of them worked. Developer, Gurce, plans to compose a wiki page that includes compatible keyboards.
The long-term solution is to try the “cheapest” and “nastiest” keyboards I can find with many developers hinting I need the most inexpensive Dell keyboard I can find. I’m on that search.
This livestream had the largest number of concurrent viewers for my channel at 16. After 24 hours, this livestream is the third most-watched and I expect it will be second in the next 24 hours. MEGA65 content is hot right now thanks to the impending release of hardware! Have you pre-ordered yours?
Thanks to the developers for popping into the livestream and chat. A viewer posted in the MEGA65 Discord Channel I was having “live” issues with my project and three of them jumped on to help. And that’s how great this community is! I’ve typed this before, but one benefit of owning my MEGA65 Dev Kit was becoming a part of this wonderful international community. No question has ever gone unanswered and even though I am not a developer myself, I’ve never felt like a second-class citizen and I’ve watched the development of a Commodore computer; something 17-year-old me dreamed about!
I had a couple of folks ask why, as the owner of a Dev Kit and now one of the first 400 MEGA65s, I need a Nexys4? There are two reasons. One, it is part of the journey from Dev Kit, to emulation on my Mac, to Nexys4, to MEGA65. I want to experience all the ways I can run a MEGA65. Two, I want to create a portable MEGA65 that will travel. That’s the eventual plan for this Nexys4 board.
A huge thanks goes out to Mislav who supported the channel with a Super Chat!!! Can’t thank you enough and thanks for your continued support.

That’s all for this companion blog post. As I mention, once I get a working keyboard, there will be a full episode and companion blog post that will document the process and allow you to install the MEGA65 Bitstream on your own Nexys4.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Playing Texas Instruments TI-99/4A Video Games on a FlashROM99

2021-10-22T00:00:00+00:00

After receiving and then creating a video/blog post about the FlashROM99 from The Brewing Academy, I went online to show how to play games from the device and experience, for the first time, these Texas Instruments TI-99/4A versions of popular 1980s video games.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Before you read the rest of this post, look at my companion video below and then continue reading to learn more about the FlashROM99 and watch me reminisce with video games from the 1980s.

YouTube Video: ‌Playing TI-99/4A 1980s video games from a FlashROM99 | Livestream edit with captions

In the video below, I play several 1980s video games using a Texas Instruments TI-99/4A FlashROM99.

Video Errata

Jamie informed me that when playing Burger Time, you don’t throw salt, but pepper, as shown on the screen!

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

List of Games and Time codes

If you want to jump to your favorite game(s), below are the time codes which are embedded in the YT video scrubber:

00:00 Introduction
01:57 Texas Instruments Software Catalog
03:36 Install the FlashROM99
05:15 FlashROM99 menu
07:00 Burger Time
11:27 Rest the FlashROM99
12:30 Super Demon Attack
17:24 Mars Attack (Locked Up FlashROM99)
18:14 Meteor Belt
19:48 TI Joysticks
20:25 Miner 2049er
22:26 Q*bert
23:20 Star Trek SOS
25:17 Star Wars
28:50 Super Fly
30:09 Tombstone City
31:29 Wingwar
33:30 #retroCombs Thanks and Information
35:10 Microsurgeon
38:22 End Screens

Additional Thoughts

If you want more information about the FlashROM99, including instructions to prepare and use the device, check out my previous post.
Since my collection of Texas Instruments TI-99/4A related content is growing, I’ve created a TI-99/4A resource page to highlight that content and share my journey with this recent addition to my retro computing collection.
Two stalwarts joined me for this livestream (with about 6 more popping in and out):
- https://twitter.com/KrlezaMislav - A tremendous shout out for sending a Super Chat during the livestream. One of my biggest supporters and “virtual” friends. Thanks for continuing to support the channel and for being a part of the community.
- Jamie - From the Jamie’s Hack Shack YT channel, and neighbor, mentioned his Extralife4kids November 6th, 2021 event. If you’d like to sponsor and support the Children’s Hospital in Louisville, KY, use this link, https://www.extra-life.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=donorDrive.participant&participantID=458561. As the father of a child who has spent many hours in this hospital, I can vouch that they will put the funds to good use.
I used the Blackmagic ATEM Mini for the first time during this livestream. I have much to learn about this powerful switching device and there’s a bunch of features packed in, via the Mac application, that I’ve yet to explore. I made a mistake and should have purchased the ATEM Mini Pro for $100 more or the Pro ISO for $400 more. Each includes streaming directly from the box and recording. I’ve listed the ISO as a Buy Me A Coffee goal. If I reach $1000, I’ll upgrade. If you want to help reach that goal, click the Buy Me A Coffee icon on the lower-right of this page.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to mßy YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

The FlashROM 99 for the Texas Instruments TI-99/4A

2021-10-16T00:00:00+00:00

I continue my Texas Instruments TI-99/4A journey with the newest hardware addition, the FlashROM 99 from The Brewing Academy. These devices promise to provide access to 171 (that’s an odd number, pun intended), TI-99/4A solid state cartridges on a single cartridge that uses an SD Card. In this blog post and companion video, I take a long look at the device and see if it lives up to its promise.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Before you read the rest of this post, look at my companion video below and then continue reading for more FlashROM 99 hints, tips, and tricks.

YouTube Video: ‌171 Texas Instruments Cartridges on a TI994A FlashROM 99?

In the video below, I configure and show the use of the TI-99/4A FlashROM 99.

Video Errata

In the video I mention the ROMs and say “I’m not sure about the Trademarks.” That’s not accurate, I meant to say, “I’m not sure about the copyrights and legality of downloading ROMs” since many titles have modern owners.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

FlashROM 99 Hardware

I purchased my FlashROM 99 from The Brewing Academy (TBA). If you search online, you will find other vendors; however, at $35, TBA’s version was right in my price point. Black did not add to the cost and other colors are available at a premium. TBA 3D prints the case, assembles, and tests the units before shipment.

When you take the FlashROM 99 out of the box, you will immediately notice the case is PLA, and it has familiar 3D printed layers. TBA includes a nice feature; the Texas Instruments and TBA logo on the top.

The case is solid. You might worry that the case walls are too thin; however, the TBA print is substantial. Two Philips’ head screws, that are not flush with the case, hold the case together. I worry that this will scratch my TI-99/4A but it has not yet. Be careful and it should not cause a problem. I found the TI-99/4A makes scratches on the FlashROM 99! That’s a good thing and I prefer this to the opposite.

The label design on the front of the FlashROM 99 is nice; however, it is pealing off. Time for TBA to find a different adhesive.

The PLA case holds the electronics components in place. An SD card reader is firmly attached to the circuit board. The SD Card seats with a click. Press in on the SD Card to hear another click and it releases from the reader. The LED is bright. The reset button is a concern. They made it from PLA and it is flimsy. It works, but could be more substantial.

None of my concerns are enough to not recommend this device. It’s $35 and assembled by hand before it arrives. That’s a bargain for this device.

Prepare an SD Card

TBA does not include an SD card, but you can purchase one with ROMs. I recommend you source your own inexpensive 4 Gb SD cards and perform a Google search for specific ROMs or an entire selection of compatible ROMs.

Once you have an SD Card (4 to 8 Gb preferable), format is using FAT32. I had an issue with an older 4 Gb card. I tried a fresh format on both my Mac and Linux boxes but it did not work. A newer 8 Gb card solved the problem and worked on the first after formatting on my Mac using Disk Utility. Place all ROMs on the root directory of the SD Card.

If you place nine or fewer ROMs (.BIN files) on the SD Card, the menu will allow you to select the ROMs using the number keys, 1 → 9. More than 9 and the menu defaults to using A → S per page up to 19 titles per page, or 9 separate pages as shown in the image as shown in the image below (courtesy of the FlashROM 99 GitHub page):

You cannot place ROMs in folders. The FlashROM 99 does not support folders. Check out the FinalGROM 99 for this feature.

FlashROM 99 Use

Using the FlashROM 99 is simple using these steps:

Plug in the FlashROM 99 into the cartridge slot. Be careful the first time. It’s a tight fit and watch carefully that the screws on the bottom of the FlashROM 99 do not scratch your precious TI-99/4A!
Turn on the TI-99/4A. The default screen will display with a request to press any key. Wait for the FlashROM 99 LED to turn off before you proceed. It takes about a second or two.
Press any key and a menu will appear asking to select 1 for TI BASIC or 2 for FLASHROM 99.
Select 2. The FlashROM 99 menu will appear. The FlashROM 99 lists titles alphabetically.
If over nine ROMs are on the SD Card, use , key to move down a screen and the . to move up a screen.
Select a title using the associated alpha-numeric character on the left of the title. You cannot use the arrow keys and ⏎ to make a selection.

The current ROM is always be the default ROM, even when you power cycle the TI-99/4A, unless you reset the FlashROM 99. Use the instructions below to use a new ROM:

Power cycle the TI-99/4A or press Fn + QUIT (preferred) to reboot the computer. The default screen will display. DO NOT PRESS ANY KEY!
Press the reset button on the FlashROM 99. The LED will glow as it resets the FlashROM 99. When the light turns off, press any key and return to step #3 in the prior list.

That’s all there is to it. The device is easy to use and my recommendation is that you leave the FlashROM 99 in the TI-99/4A. Load up the cartridge with

Additional Thoughts

I don’t provide the links to download .BIN files for the FlashROM 99; however, a quick Google search will yield an entire collection you can download with one click. ‘Nuff said.
I am aware there is a newer device called the FinalGROM 99 by the same developer. I made the purchase of the FlashROM 99 immediately after the purchase of my TI-99/4A during VCFMW 2021. On the car ride home, using my Pixel 4XL, I searched and found this device. During my research, I made note that the FinalGROM 99 was not compatible with later Quality Improved (QI) versions of the TI-99/4A. Since I had a newer beige model, this device would not work. I purchased the safer FlashROM 99 option. It was an impulse buy; I know. Looking back after determining I did not have a QI model, yes, I should have purchased the FinalGROM 99. Here’s the thing though, I now have another device to try, compare, and share! If you’d like to send me one, reach out via email and we can arrange it.
I continue to enjoy my TI-99/4A journey. I understand why there are fans of this retro computer, even today. I will not change my retro allegiance from Commodore (or now the MEGA65), but there is more to come from me as I learn more about this other retro computer.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to mßy YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Livestream • Unboxing the Blackmagic Design ATEM Mini

2021-10-10T00:00:00+00:00

I recently purchased the Blackmagic Design ATEM Mini after seeing the device featured on many YouTube channels. The device promises to make camera management during livestreams easier and hold the potential to reduce edits on recorded video. In the past few weeks, I’ve hosted several livestreams and I am enjoying the impromptu conversations, interactions with followers, and the exclusion of the editing process. I enjoy editing and it is appropriate for much of the content I create; however, if this device can cut editing and make livestreams easier to manage, it will be worth the $300 price tag.

Instead of sitting at my desk by myself trying to set up the ATEM Mini, I fired up YouTube and shared my experience with anyone who wanted to join me. Eight folks joined through the hour long livestream but three hung out for the entire journey. I’ll list them below, but let me offer my sincere thanks to each of them. It was more fun unboxing the ATEM Mini with “friends!”

Watch the livestream below and then return to the blog post for additional thoughts on the device and the livestream.

YouTube Video: ‌Unboxing and Installing the Blackmagic Design ATEM Mini

In the video below, I unbox and install the Blackmagic Design ATEM Mini

Video Errata

None that aren’t corrected in the video, EVENTUALLY!

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Livestream Thoughts

The folks below joined for most of the livestream. It was an honor to have each one of them join the conversation:

Mark Dell - Owns an ATEM Mini and saved my bacon a few times during the livestream. Huge thanks for the Super Chat!
Mislav Krleža - My “#1 Fan” and that’s not self appointed, that a title I’ve given him and It is always a blast to have you join the livestreams and another huge thanks for the Super Chat.
Oliver Graf - This is Oliver’s second retroCombs livestream. Be careful Oliver. One more and you might get hooked!

There were five additional lurkers throughout the video. If you are reading this, drop in again and say, “hello,” during the next livestream. We’d love to get to know you.

ATEM Mini Thoughts

I normally livestream from my desk. The goal with the ATEM Mini is to use it at another location where I have two large white IKEA desks. There’s more room and a cool brick wall in the background that will give me that cool YouTube look. Stay tuned for the new location.
In retrospect, I should have spent an extra $100 on the Blackmagic Design ATEM Mini Pro. With this device, I could livestream without a computer and get additional information on the love monitor. I could send back the ATEM Mini; however, I could see myself with two of these, the ATEM mini on my desk for Zoom meetings and the Pro for livestreams and recording.
The Blackmagic Design ATEM Mini Pro ISO is more functional and records each video source individually on a USB hard drive. This is the version on my wish list and I’ve started a new BuyMeACoffee goal. When I reach $1000, I’m adding the ISO to my studio. If you want to help, visit the page. During this video I made the commitment to add Super Chats/Stickers/Thanks donations to this goal.
Using the ATEM Mini without software is simple and after a few presses of the buttons you can figure out the features; or if like me, you have someone like Mark in the chat room coaching you.
The ATEM Mini software has a steep learning curve. I was surprised it wasn’t immediately apparent how to do things; however, I should have guessed. Blackmagic Design is a professional video manufacturer that uses professional terminology. You must learn this terminology to understand their products. As a user of DaVinci Resolve, I should know this. After research, it appears I need to become familiar with macros if I want to use the advanced features.
I need to update the firmware. This is a manual process within the ATEM software. There is no notification (that I’ve seen). The upgrade will add new features and correct bugs. Blackmagic has an excellent reputation for correcting and adding features to their software and hardware and this will require me to check for firmware updates.
A note to everyone who claims the Canon M50 is great for livestreams. I disagree! I plugged this camera into the ATEM Mini after the livestream to test. The camera has an issue. It shuts the camera display off after 30 minutes, which also shuts off the HDMI display. You cannot turn this “feature” off. A hack is to plug the USB into a computer with the Canon software. This is not a convenient option. I’m on the search now for a couple of inexpensive HDMI cameras to use with the ATEM Mini.
My new IPEVO VZ-R document camera is perfect for the ATEM Mini since it includes both a USB-C connection and a high resolution HDMI port. Check out my post for all the reasons. This is a great camera for livestreams where you need to show your desk or documents.

That’s all for this post; however, if I find other ATEM Mini nuggets in the next few days, I’ll update this post.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Texas Instruments TI-99/4A Accessories/Games Unboxing Livestream

2021-10-03T00:00:00+00:00

Followers know a new-to-me Texas Instruments (TI) TI-99/4A now adorns the shelves of my retro computing collection. It’s a long story; however, during the diatribe, I talk about the accessories I purchased. In this blog post and companion video, I share those items. There’s even a special surprise from Jamie, over at Jamie’s Hack Shack. Watch the livestream video below and continue reading to learn more.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

YouTube Video: ‌TI-99/4A Accessories, Unboxing, Gameplay, and FUN!

In the livestream video below, I unbox several packages as I pontificate about random items that pop up in the chat room.

Video Supporters:

Special thanks to the viewers below for their support of the livestream:

Jamie’s Hack Shack for the TI surprise unboxing and opportunity to play!!! That was outstanding.
Mislav, who ensured I correctly said his name (pronounced “Miss-Lav”) and supported me with a Super Chat!
Oliver, for his knowledge and tips while playing our TI 99/4A games and for helping me figure out that the TIPI is not pronounced, TIPPY, but T.I. Pi. That makes more sense.

Video Errata

I called the AdaFruit MacroPad the MagTag at one point. That is another device that uses an e-ink display.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Additional Thoughts

Below are additional thoughts from and after the livestream.

Technical Issues

I had issues using the AdaFruit MacroPad to switch OBS Studio screens during the livestream. I need more practice to make it seamless and I’m sure this will come with time.
I love the new IPEVO Document Camera! The autofocus is impressive and the on base controls make zooms and other adjustments easy.
For reasons unknown to me, my capture device for the TI computer would sometime lose audio and I had to switch to another source and back again to get the audio to play during the livestream. I’ll work with it but at least I know how to quickly correct the issue.
I tried the Hyperkin Ranger again on the TI and it would not work. The competition pro worked with every game that supported a joystick. It is odd. I love the Ranger and it works with my MEGA65, Commodore Plus/4 (with adapter), and Commodore 128. I’ll give the Trooper a try later, but I suspect the Ranger has a compatibility issue because of the built-in paddle controller.

Content Comments

This livestream was a “Blasto!” See what I did? I’m sure it was more fun for me than the viewers because I was the one who got to open the boxes and play the games; save for Hangman. Thanks to the folks in chat who helped me figure out the word to win that round. It would have been an embarrassment to not win the first game with a five letter word.
I don’t think Jamie could have timed his surprise box any better. It was TI computer related and the perfect addition to the livestream. Thanks again, Jamie!
I look forward to trying out the 32K memory expander (that came with the whole enchilada), TIPI, and the FlashROM 99. I’ll share the installation and a review of theses products in a future produced video. Might be awhile because I want to get back to MEGA65 content.
Inside one of the boxes was four TI solid-state cartridges:
- Hangman - We play a round in the chat and if not for Jamie and Oliver, we would have lost to a five letter word!
- Hunt the Wumpus - Maze madness and that’s not a good thing
- TI Invaders - Like the original and make sure you have good joystick
- Blasto - Think tanks meet minesweeper, which could be fun with instructions
- Jamie’s Gift - I’m not going to spoil it here, but a game he said is maddening and “meh!”
During the livestream, I introduced my newest page; retroCombs Supporters. There are currently three ways to support the channel; Buy me a coffee, click the ♡ THANKS button under a videos, and/or click SUPER CHAT during a livestream. A supporter made a request for a monthly support option and recommended Patreon; however, YouTube has released their own members program and since I use Google Adsense on the site, it makes sense to combine all revenue into a single program. I hope to have membership live toward the end of this year or early next year.

That’s all there is for now. If there’s something I missed, send me an email (see below) and I hope you will join me for my next livestream.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

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IPEVO VZ-R Unboxing and Review

2021-10-02T00:00:00+00:00

I’m experimenting with livestreams on the channel. I like to prepare video, but when I live stream, I can relax, enjoy the live chat with followers, and not worry about editing afterward. Like the Ronco Rotisserie, I can “set it, and forget it.” My first couple of livestreams were not good. Not because of the content (well maybe!), but because of the webcam I used to capture my desktop.

I remedied this situation with the purchase of the well-reviewed IPEVO VZ-R HDMI Document Camera. Why a document camera and not a webcam? Watch the video below and then read the rest of the post to learn why and to read my thoughts on this document camera.

YouTube Video: IPEVO VZ-R HDMI Document Camera Unboxing and Review

In the video below, I unbox the IPEVO document camera, highlight features, and use in a few scenarios.

Video Errata

There is corresponding free software available, IPVEO Visualizer, for this camera; however, I chose not to download and install in favor of using the camera out of the box. A look at this software is its own video, and this software appears to have many valuable features: document scanning, split screen, and stop motion recording.

Timecodes:

00:00 Introduction to Video
01:00 retroCombs Bumper
01:08 IPEVO Document Camera Introduction
01:41 Unboxing
03:30 Assembly
05:00 Hardware Features
06:10 LED Light
06:15 Filters
06:59 Rotation
07:11 Zoom
08:24 Exposure
08:38 Lock Automatic Focus
09:58 Document Example
12:55 Keyboard Example
16:15 Use as Face Webcam
17:10 Computer Example
18:14 Recommendation
20:05 Conclusion

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Additional Thoughts

I include many comments about this camera in the video and I try not to overstate them below:

The packaging hides the quality of the product inside. Every mechanical housing, rotation points, and buttons, feels premium. Buttons are solid and the on/off switch has solid click. The camera case is metal with a cast iron, and heavy, base. The word I will use to describe this product is, “substantial.”
Both sides have button operation labels in case you are a left or right-handed user.
I worried that the 8.0 Megapixel camera would have problems with low lighting. This was not an issue with my light setup. While including an LED light is a nice idea, don’t count on it to provide all the light you need in a dark environment and it causes a hot spot.
Speaking of the 8.0 Megapixel camera, it provides excellent color reproduction and the 4K resolution allows for both HDMI 4K and USB-C 4K digital. While I record in 1080p, 4K allows the digital zoom to provide detail without pixilation. This quality of this feature pleasantly surprised me.
I did not try to use the HDMI port on the camera to connect to a monitor or LCD project.
While you can use this document camera as a webcam, I would not recommend it. In a pinch, it will work; however, combine this camera with a high-quality webcam for your faces, such as a Logitech BRIO (the camera I use), and you have a high-quality multi-cam setup for OBS, Zoom, or other online streaming tool.

Recommendation

At $219, this is a pricey investment; however, when you compare with other brands of “professional” document cameras, the cost is right in line, if not cheaper. If you’d like the same camera, for less, more mobile, and with fewer features, check out the IPEVO store for more options. I chose this model for the hardware controls, 4K, and HDMI port.

At the time of this writing, I’ve not yet used this camera for a livestream; however, I’ve been using it to record and I am pleased. The image quality is better than I expected, controls are simple to use, and it works with OBS Studio on my Mac without issue. I need to spend time with the software available, but this is not a priority since the device worked as I needed right out of the box.

There is no reason to hesitate if you are on the fence to purchase this camera. I’ve tried and sent back four or five webcams to use as a document camera. None of them, of course, worked because they were not a true document camera designed to grab the contents on your desk or workbench. The IPEVO VZ-R is “the right tool for the right job.” If you have a regular need for a document camera, purchase one now!

Photo Gallery

Below is an image gallery for the IPEVO VR-Z:

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

My first TI 99/4A | A VCFMW 2021 Story

2021-09-27T00:00:00+00:00

This TI is a first for me and because of this, hang on. It’s going to be a long and informative post. My follower’s are aware I am a Commodore computer fan since my first computer, the Commodore VIC-20, and I’m closely following MEGA65 development; however, there was a strange disturbance in the force on 2021-09-11.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

The cause of this disturbance was the purchase of a non-Commodore retro computer, the Texas Instruments (TI) 99/4a. In this blog post and companion video, I will unbox it and look at this computer from my almost 40 years of experience with Commodore lens.

Table of Contents

YouTube Video: VCFMW 2021 TI 99/4A purchase | Includes unboxing, history, specs, and first use
Video Errata
Links in this Episode:
The Purchase
Short History (of the TI computer, not me)
Specifications
- CPU
- Memory
- Video
- Sound
Unboxing and Contents
QI or not QI?
What’s Next?
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

YouTube Video: VCFMW 2021 TI 99/4A purchase | Includes unboxing, history, specs, and first use

In the video below, I unbox a lightly used TI 99/4A purchased at the Vintage Computer Festival Midwest 2021.

Video Errata

None as of 2021-09-28.

Links in this Episode:

The Purchase

My neighbor and buddy over at Jamie’s Hack Shack and @slofunk on Twitter sent me a DM to ask if I wanted to make a day trip to Vintage Computer Festival Midwest (VCFMW) 2021 in Elmhurst, IL; outside Chicago. Despite my love of retro computers, I’ve never made the trek to any conference, festival, or users’ group. The offer intrigued me and I needed a distraction from two recent deaths in the family. I accepted the invite and on 2021-09-11, Jamie arrived at my home in his Honda Civic Type R, which is a sweet ride, and we headed north.

We arrived at VCFMW about four hours later and began to make our way through the halls and hallways of the show.

There were displays of many kinds and vendors selling both old and modern retro computers and accessories. There was even a free table; although everything on that table was more modern. Two large hallways housed the vendors and two large conference rooms that displays that ranged from PETs, to Apple, to Altair, to telephony. It was amazing to see these old, and cherished, projects and modern recreation alike.

Among the displays were a smattering of sellers. I stopped by and had a visit with Kevin Ottum of Nu-Brick 64 Power Supplies. He had power supplies in stock at VCFMW and I grabbed the one along with a Plus/4 adapter. I’ve been leery to keep using the default power supply for my Plus/4 and was glad to purchase one on site and at a reasonable cost. Now I can safely finish my Plus/4 Users Manual Series.

After Jamie and I had exhausted our time on the show floor, we headed back into the hallway to take a look at the many vendors. We spent an inordinate amount of time at the Bonus Life Computers table. What a collection! I suspected I would not walk away from this table without a purchase and I could tell by the look in Jamie’s eyes; he would not leave the show empty handed either.

Jamie added an ALDI Commodore 64 to his growing collection of Commodore computers. There were several, and I considered a purchase; however, my eyes went a different direction when I saw a beige Texas Instruments TI 99/4a in what looked like mint condition with a box and complete documentation set. The owner opened the box and said, “Want to give it a try?” I gave him the affirmative, and he carefully removed it from the box. As suspected, this computer was lightly used. “How much?” I asked. “$70,” he replied. That was within my VCFMW budget and would keep me out of trouble with the missus.

He used a video DIN adapter and plugged it into monitor with RCA plugs. After a few tries, the TI blue screen and color bars appeared.

He shuffled things around and said, “give it a try.” I typed on the keyboard for a few minutes, noting the strange keyboard layout, great keyboard feel, and unfamiliar color of the screen. I typed in a BASIC program, noting how dissimilar the experience was from my Commodore computers. “What do you think?” he asked. “It is just quirky enough that I want it.”

“I have cartridges for $5,” he said as he handed me a tub full. Excellent! The search was on and Jamie came over to help me select three of them:

Terminal Emulator II - telecommunications program that I hope to connect to a TIPI device (more on that in a future post)
Music Maker - As the name states and I will use to highlight the sound capabilities of the computer.
Parsec - Evidently, the definitive game that should start the games selection on the TI 99/4a. Includes voice, if a Voice Module is installed. That’s a purchase for later (unless someone out there wants to donate one to me!).

The vendor rang up the total, added the 8% Chicago tax (OUCH!), and packed it all up for me. In the meantime, I noticed Jamie selecting an ALDI Commodore 64. We would both walk about with a computer on this day!

Below is an image of my entire haul, including my free VCFMW badge and lanyard:

Before I unbox the TI 99/4a, I need perspective. Let’s take a look at the history of this computer.

Short History (of the TI computer, not me)

Even though I had a Commodore VIC-20 at the time, I knew about the TI 99/4a from the many computer magazines I would read. I always saw it as a step up from the Commodore due to its 40 column screen, business quality keyboard, and ability to hang additional options off the side. And that black and steel industrial design was kickin’ in the 1980s! I researched the history of this device and found an interesting connection to Commodore computers. Here’s my synopsis as paraphrased from Wikipedia and Old Computers.

Released in 1979, the TI 99/4 includes a TMS9900 microprocessor. What sets this process apart is that while a majority of home computers were 8-bit, this processor was 16-bit, with caveats that I’ll not cover but recommend you click on over to Noel’s Retro Lab for his TI 99/4A playlist.

There were shortcomings to the original model, such as keyboard, ROM-only software options, tight-fisted developer control, and cost. TI addressed these in a 1981 model; the TI 99/4A. TI cut the cost in half and the “Peripheral Expansion System” or PES provided expansion capabilities. TI added another novelty, their famous TI Speech Synthesizer. While they released developer tools, TI continued its tight fisted control of software distribution; limiting the availability of software.

TI released a cost reduced beige version (the one I purchased) in June 1983 with a renaming the 4A PCB as a “QI” (Quality Improved) board. Per MainByte, the QI included additional circuitry that extended their heavy hand on developers:

One change that was made that created major grumbling was TI’s decision to change the internal workings to lockout unlicensed ROM cartridges. They did this to keep other 3rd party companies from producing cartridges for the TI-99/4A. Not all QI consoles had this “feature”, and even non QI, later beige consoles may have. It is easy to determine if you have the lockout or not. Look at the first screen (the one with the color bars) when you turn on the console, if you show a copyright date of 1981 you do not have the lockout, but if it shows a copyright date of 1983 then you do.

We’ll fire up my TI 99/4a and see if I have the lockout version.

TI cut the cost to less than $100. This was less than the cost to manufacture. Why would they do this? That’s where Commodore enters the story. Commodore dropped the price of the VIC-20 to $100 and ruled the personal computer market in the early 80s. TI, in a last ditch effort to save their personal computer market, decided to sell low in hopes that software and peripherals would make up the difference. Their gamble did not pay off and TI experienced a second-quarter loss of $100 million. In March 1984, Texas Instruments discontinued the TI-99/4A and got out of the personal computer market. Score another win for Commodore (who would get their own comeuppance 10 years later).

Specifications

Here are the complete specs for the TI 99/4a lifted from the Wikipedia page:

CPU

Texas Instruments TMS9900 @ 3 MHz, 16-bit, 64-pin DIP

Memory

256 bytes scratchpad RAM for the CPU (4K and 32K expansion available)
16 kB Video Display Processor RAM

Video

Hardware: TMS9918A VDP, 40 pin DIP. The earlier 99/4 uses the TMS9918. PAL systems use the “9929” versions of each.
32 single-color sprites in defined layers allowing higher-numbered sprites to transparently flow over lower-numbered sprites. Sprites are available at 8×8 pixels or 16×16 pixels, with a “magnify” bit that doubled all sprites’ size but not their resolution. A single bit is available in hardware for collision detection, and the console supports automatic movement via an interrupt routine in the ROM. There can only be 4 visible sprites per scan line.
16 fixed colors (15 visible, one color reserved for “transparent” which shows the background color). Transparent is intended for the 9918’s genlock which is disabled in the system.
Text mode: 40×24 characters (256 6×8 user-definable characters, no sprites, foreground and background color only, not accessible in BASIC)
Graphics mode: 32×24 characters (256 8×8 user-definable characters, full 15 color palette + transparent (available in groups of 8 through the character table) and 32 sprites (The only mode available in BASIC. Extended BASIC is required for sprites, and can access only 28 of them.)
Bitmap mode: 256×192 pixels (no more than two colors in an eight-pixel row, full 15 color palette + transparent, all 32 sprites available but interrupt-based motion through the ROM routine is not due to the memory layout, not available to BASIC or the original 9918).
Multicolor mode: 64×48 pixels (each pixel may be any color, all 32 sprites are available)
All above comprise 36 layers starting with the video overlay input, then the background color, then two graphics mode layers, then a layer for each of the 32 sprites. A higher layer obscures a lower layer in hardware, unless that higher layer is transparent.

Sound

TMS9919, later SN94624, identical to the SN76489 used in many other systems
3 voices, 1 noise (white or periodic)
Voices generate square waves from 110 Hz to approximately 115 kHz
Console ROM includes interrupt-driven music playback

Unboxing and Contents

Unboxing the computer was a pleasurable experience. I took the contents out of the box prior to my purchase; we placed them back in the order we believe they were originally and I was careful not to look at each individual item again until I could go through the process on camera. I document the unboxing in the companion video. Watch that video if you want more narrative or my thoughts on the presentation of the computer.

Here’s the extensive documentation included with my computer:

Read This First - Connection and getting started.
User’s Reference Guide - In true TI engineering notebook style, the manual is three-hole punched and includes narrative down the left and code on the right. It’s a great-looking manual.
Beginner’s Basic - Everything you need to know about BASIC on the TI 99/4A.
BASIC Reference Guide - Information you need at the tip of your fingers on a hard stock map folding card.
Computer Advantage Club Flyer - Learn how to join the club to get the most out of the TI 99/4A.
Wired Remote Controller Addendum - You can’t move an object up with a controller plugged in and the Alpha Lock on!
June to December 1982 Price List - This is how much things cost in 1980s.
Hardware Accessories - Devices to extend the capabilities of the TI 99/4A.
Home Computer Program Library - Solid State software cartridges available.
Home Computer Program Library Addendum - The items missing in #9.
Triton Spring 1986 TI 99/4A Catalog - Items available near the end of the computer’s life.

Besides this documentation, there was the following hardware:

TI 99/4A Computer
Power Adapter
RF Modulator

All-in-all, this was a complete and amazingly clean package. The computer feels, looks, and operates like a brand new unit. I am pleased with my purchase.

QI or not QI?

Earlier, I discussed TI’s QI version of the computer. To remind us, this isn’t QI charging!!! This is Quality Improved for cost reduction. If a TI has QI, modern devices like the Brewing Academy’s finalgrom99, will not work. This is not a non-starter, but a TI with QI will limit the use of this device. Let’s find out which version I have. Remember, we are looking for the 1991 startup screen and not 1993. Here we go. Flip the switch and…

It was a 1981 startup screen. Yes! I can use all devices and cartridges available for the TI 99/4A.

What’s Next?

The same day I purchased the TI, I purchased three other items:

TI-99/4a to Atari 2600 Joystick Adapter ($15) from TexElec - purchased on the car ride home after a discussion about joystick compatibility with Jamie. Converts the
TIPI - TI/Raspberry Pi Interface for the TI 99/4a ($150) - TIPI is a storage, network, and device solution expansion for the TI-99/4A home computer using a Raspberry PI 3/3+ or Zero-W. I ordered the “whole Enchilada” which includes:
- Assembled & tested 32k side port model
- External Power Supply
- 3D printed case to hold both of them
- Raspberry Pi 3/3+ (their choice)
- 3D printed case for Raspberry Pi
- External USB power cable WITH ON/OFF switch & power brick
- 8GB uSD card with TIPI image pre-installed
FR99: FlashROM 99 Cartridge ($35) - Run ROM cartridge images up to 32Kb stored on an SD card.

Here’s the sad part. You know the money I spent on the computer; $90 bucks? I spent triple that amount on these accessories. Uh, oh! Please don’t tell my wife!

I’m not going to look at these items as part of this blog post and companion video; however, expect an update on either Twitter, this blog, or on the channel.

Final Thoughts

I’m happy with my purchase. The computer, box, and contents are pristine. The opportunity to learn about an 1980s computer I didn’t own will be informative and fun. I was glad to see an active community using the computer and modern devices available to upgrade the system. I will look on eBay for other devices at reasonable rates, such as the speech synthesizer and the PES. All-in-all, a chance to compare this to my favorite line of computers, Commodore, will be an interesting exercise. I do not believe this device will make me a TI convert, though. There’s not much there to build on after the initial experience.

All right, TI fans out there. What did I miss during my first look? Drop me a comment below and let me know. The fun is in the learning from seasoned users. Can’t wait to hear what you have to share.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the TI fun, SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other retro computing related posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can also email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

AdaBox 019 (Macropad) Unboxing and Live Stream

2021-09-07T00:00:00+00:00

During Labor Day 2021, I opened a YouTube Live stream to share an unboxing of the Adafruit AdaBox 019. The box arrived several weeks ago. I kept putting it aside as I worked on other content for the blog and YouTube channel; however, I had an inkling of what was inside the box and was eager to open it up and start playing with the contents.

^{Image courtesy of Adafruit Industries}

Here’s what Adafruit says about this box:

Strap yourself in, we’re launching in T-minus 10 seconds…Destination? A new Class M planet called ADABOX 019! “M” here stands for “Microcontroller” because this ADABOX is the first one to feature the newest technology from the Raspberry Pi sector: say hello to the RP2040. It’s a speedy little microcontroller with lots of GPIO pins and 64 times more RAM than the Apollo Guidance Computer. Get ready to upgrade your desk’s mission control station with a CircuitPython powered Macropad - complete with 12 buttons, OLED display, speaker and rotary encoder.

On a “whim,” I set up a couple of webcams on my desk, opened OBS Studio, made a few test streams, and went live. I wasn’t expecting anyone to join because the only announcement made was on the MEGA65 Discord channel. In hindsight, I should have posted to Twitter. Despite my lack of advertising, I ended up with ten viewers who spent anywhere from a few minutes to an hour with me. I’ve listed their names in the video description for the video. And, in my first retroCombs live stream, I even had two viewers send support my way.

Viewer Mislav was kind enough to buy me not one, not two, but three coffees and Jamie (From Jamie’s Hack Shack – check it out and subscribe) was the first to take advantage of a YouTube Super Sticker. Mislav recommends I start a Patreon. I’m not sure I’m ready to make this jump because with it comes an expectation that I’m not sure I can maintain given my workload. My Buy Me a Coffee account allows monthly support and even YouTube includes these tools. Have to do more research. If you have thoughts, leave them in the comments below.

Enough of that, let’s get to the companion video. Before you read the rest of this post, watch the companion video below.

YouTube Video: AdaBox 019 (Macropad) | retroCombs Labor Day LIVE Stream

In the LIVE stream video below, I open the box on the AdaBox 019.

Video Errata

None as of 2021-09-07.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Final Thoughts

Below are final thoughts about the AdaBox 019 and the video unboxing, setup, and first use:

For my first go at retroCombs live streaming, I was pleased. OBS performed admirably and after I got the kinks worked out, I felt at home with the technology. I had a couple of moments where I was on the wrong screen and the viewers had to imagine what I was pointing at, but I quickly made corrections.
I’m aware I need a new camera for the desk view. The older Logitech C920 camera no longer locks its autofocus. I use an outstanding Logitech BRIO for the main web cam. It was investment during COVID and has been my go to camera for Zoom, YouTube recordings, and now live streams. It’s pricey, but as I told my neighbor Jamie, another one would make a great combo for workbench streams. Looks like I know what I can do with the funds received during the live stream. Not enough yet, but I’ll add those funds to my Amazon affiliate funds and before you know it, I’ll have an extraordinary live stream setup. {UPDATE: 2021-09-07} I might even consider the Lumina AI camera.
Here’s the great irony of the Macropad project. The Macropad will make a wonderful control board to switch between OBS screens in future live streams. Expect it to appear in the future after I program the device’s buttons, OLED display, and LED lights. It will be one slick “Streamdeck-like” device.
After the video, I took time to review the additional code available. I found a good start point the Macropad Hotkeys project. Use the code to activate keystrokes or macros. The key function appears on the OLED screen. Given time, it will be easy to convert this code to manage OBS Studio. I plan to dive into this project in the next week or two and will be sure to share.
The live stream was fun, but I’m not sure what I might do for my next session. I’d like to focus on something MEGA65 related; however, I’m not a developer and not sure what I could add. I have a programming project to consider; however, I’d hate to fail during a live stream. If you have ideas, drop me a comment below or send it via email.

Join the Fun

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Thanks for reading and watching and if inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs on your favorite social media platform.

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Wyze Buds Pro unboxing, setup, pairing, first use, and thoughts

2021-08-31T00:00:00+00:00

It’s time for another Wyze product first look. This time, it’s the Wyze Buds Pro. As a backer, I received an early pair of these new buds and, at the time of this writing, pre-orders are available for the next shipment. If you have questions about these new buds, this blog post and companion video can help as I unbox, setup, pair, and run the buds through a few use cases. At the end of the post, I’ll provide final thoughts. Let’s first dig in with my companion video.

Table of Contents

YouTube Video: Wyze Buds Pro | Unboxing | Setup | Pairing | First Use
Video Errata
Links Mentioned
Unboxing
Setup
Pairing
Use
Final Thoughts
Have Questions?

YouTube Video: Wyze Buds Pro | Unboxing | Setup | Pairing | First Use

Watch the video below and then read on my additional thoughts below.

Video Errata

{2021-08-30} In the video, I mention two concurrent Bluetooth connections. This is incorrect. I found when moving back to the phone; I had to reconnect.

Links Mentioned

Below are the links (#ad) mentioned in the video:

Unboxing

This is a slight upgrade to Wyze electronics packaging from their previous devices. The box is heavy and the design of the internal package is intuitive. It was easy to locate the contents. As a backer, I appreciated the sticker added to the user manual sleeve; although, I have to wonder why this single page manual was in its own sleeve. They can omit, save packaging dollars, and it will not detract from the user experience. I’m a fan of fewer packaging materials.

Setup

Setup using the Wyze app was “super-simple”; as I show in the companion video. Flip open the case top, load the Wyze app on your device, tap on add device, select Wyze Buds Pro and the app takes care of everything else including firmware updates. It doesn’t get much easier.

While in the settings, you view the default controls (taps) and you can change them. See the companion video for more information. The buds come with Alexa built-in. I did not test this feature. I use Google Assistant and Home devices. There is a setting to activate the device’s default assistant. That was a pleasant surprise.

My Wyze app device listing is out of control. I know I’m a different Wyze user than most, but I wish for more category and organization tools. I have to scroll several pages to find devices.

Pairing

When you use the Wyze app on an Android phone to connect to the Wyze Buds Pro, it connects to Bluetooth. The connection is strong and there were no connection drops during my run.

Connection to my MacBook Pro (2021) was simple and quick (see companion video). After the connection to the Mac, I had to reconnect to my Pixel 4 XL. The buds cannot connect to multiple device at one time like the Wyze headphones. I made an error in the video.

Use

The ear fit and comfort of the buds were excellent. My ears liked the fit of the default fittings. Wyze includes additional sizes. Through an entire run, I adjusted them once and because I knocked a bud out of place while trying to advance a track using touch controls.

Speaking of touch controls, the area to touch is super tiny. During my first uses, I messed up single, double, and triple taps. I’m sure I will get better over time, but my first experience added time to my run. I stopped twice to make volume adjustments.

Using the case is intuitive. The case itself includes operational LEDs for Bluetooth and charging. The top and the hinge are robust and I suspect both will last a long time.

Battery life appears as advertised. I had an anomaly. The left bud discharges faster than the right. I had this same issue with the Pixel Buds. The left may be a master that includes additional pairing or connection circuitry. But then again, it could level out after a more use or a firmware upgrade.

Final Thoughts

My final thoughts are a numbered list. Here’s the list for the Wyze Buds Pro:

Using the application is the only way you can turn noise cancellation, transparency, and amplified modes on/off. There’s not currently a on device tap option. This is a miss. I would sacrifice a tap setting for this feature.
On the Wyze Headphones, you can place a hand over the right earphone to allow ambient noise. We need this on the Buds Pro. It is too difficult during a run to take the phone out of a pocket to make these changes.
The firmware update was short. That’s a delightful change from other Wyze devices.
Audio controls are tiny. While running, I frequently messed up my tap controls because my first or last tap didn’t hit the tiny sensors. I found that if I take my thumb and middle finger to grab the post, it would steady the buds and provide a more accurate tap with my forefinger.
Noise cancellation is good; however, don’t expect Wyze headphones good. Because the buds don’t cover your ears, ambient sounds get through. I’m okay with this. I find with noise cancellation on, I can hear what I need to when I run. If I were to run at night, I believe I would turn on amplification for an added sense of security.
Sound was good. I turn on the bass boost for extra lows and high-quality music is pleasing. Podcasts are clear. I found music more enjoyable with noise cancellation on. In amplification mode, your ears will struggle to take it all in initially; however, it makes for a more secure run/walk. For the best sound experience, find a quiet spot, turn on noise cancellation, and enjoy.
If I could find my Pixel Buds, I’d provide more comparison points. And that’s the problem with buds. You can put them in a pocket and then forget where you left them. The Pixel Buds has a find feature (the Wyze Buds Pro do not), but if the batteries dead, it doesn’t help. Now, where did I put those things?
At $60, these aren’t the lowest or highest price buds you can purchase. For Wyze product users, the cost is in line. Having used the Pixel Buds and several off-brand buds, I can recommend the Wyze Buds Pro.
I’m a huge fan of my Wyze Headphones. For meetings, music, and video, they are pure listening pleasure, but they aren’t comfortable when running. I’ll plan to use the Wyze Buds Pro for this use case. When purchased together, and since they use the same app, Wyze now provides a device for all your personal audio listening needs.

That concludes this post. I update and timestamp posts as I receive questions and post updates. Check back later and make sure you add this site to your RSS feeds.

Have Questions?

I can see by the time on the Wyze Watch (#ad) that I’ve taken up too much of your time! Have questions about the Wyze Buds Pro? Post them in the comments below, or under the companion video, and I’ll do my best to answer them.

Run a MEGA65 on your Mac using Xemu

2021-08-31T00:00:00+00:00

As a MEGA65 Dev Kit owner, I’ve created several posts to share what’s coming when my favorite Commodore “what could have been” retro computer releases. I’m not going in depth about the MEGA65 in this post and companion video; instead, check out my new MEGA65 page. In this post, I will show you how to get started with the MEGA65, on your Apple Mac computer, while you wait for the hardware to arrive.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

To do this, I share how to install the Xemu emulator, xmega65. What’s Xemu? Let’s go right to the source:

Xemu (full name: X-Emulators) is a collection of emulators running on Linux/Unix/Windows/Mac OS of various (mainly 8-Bit) machines, including - but not limited to - the Commodore LCD, Commodore 65 and MEGA65. And yes, that’s an “X” in the name, not “Z” :)

The MEGA65 part of that description is where our interest lies today. Let’s set up a complete MEGA65 emulation environment on a Mac. I’ll use a Mac mini (M1); however, I developed this process on my MacBook Pro (M1). Although the Xemu is native to Intel Macs, it does work on the new Apple M1 processor using Apple’s Rosetta. I’ve yet to find any issues. Side note: These new M1 Macs are amazing! I recommend if you are looking for a new computer or own an older Mac. These new models are affordable, powerful, and the perfect compliment to the MEGA65 as one of the few brands from the 1980s with us today.

NOTE: I share the installation of Xemu on a Mac. I do not own a Windows computer and cannot help with that install process. If Linux users want these same instructions, drop be a comment below. I have a Manjaro Linux distribution installed and ready to go.

Table of Contents
YouTube Video: retroCombs: Starter Guide
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Download and Install Xemu
Start Xemu
Configure xmega65
Access Configuration Files
Usage
Load Software
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

YouTube Video: Install and run the MEGA65 emulator, Xemu, on Mac OS X

In the video below, I show how to install and use Xemu/xmega65 to emulate a MEGA65 on a Mac computer.

Video Errata

{UPDATE: 2021-09-01} LGB, the Xemu developer, watched the video and provided feedback and corrections to my content:

The .ROM file does not need to be renamed. This is corrected in the instructions below.
Caution: Using the “Update files on SD-cards” updates not only the ROM but all system files, including the default .D81 file!
The first lines of the .cfg files provide instructions on how to properly create a user copy of the files to use, not the original as I demonstrate in the video.

Huge thanks, LGB and keep the comments coming.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video or helpful content. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thank you my supports of the blog and the YouTube channel!

Download and Install Xemu

Let’s begin by downloading Xemu using the steps below:

Visit the Xemu page. On this blueish page, you will find two headings; Stable (“master” branch) releases and The ‘future next stable’ still unstable (“next” branch) builds.
Scroll down to the The ‘future next stable’ still unstable (“next” branch) builds header.
Click the ‌Mac OS DMG file option to download the Xemu-Installer.dmg file.

M1 Mac users will note that the Mac Xemu build, as of this writing, is for Intel processors; however, Rosetta on the M1 will run Xemu and likely run it faster!
Locate the download (likely in your Downloads folder).
Double-click the Xemu-Installer.dmg file to mount the disk image and display the GNU GENERAL PUBLIC LICENSE window.
Click the Agree button. The Mac will display the ‘Xemu-Installer’ window, as shown below:
Locate the xmega65.app file and drag it to the Applications folder.

NOTE: You can drag other Xemu emulators to the Applications folder, but I won’t discuss how to configure and use them in this post.
Close the Xemu-Install.dmg disk image window and eject the disk image. Optionally, delete the file in the Downloads folder.

With Xemu installation complete, we can now run it for the first time; however, don’t get excited yet!

Start Xemu

Starting Xemu is as simple as:

Double click the xmega65.app in the Applications folder or optionally, use a launcher such as Alfred (my preferred) to start the application. A dialog box will appear to ask you if you are sure you want to open this app downloaded from the Internet.
Select the Open button and another dialog box will display stating:

Cannot open file requested by @nvram.bin: No such file or directory Tried as: /Users/<user_name>/Library/Application Support/xemu-lgb/mega65/nvram.bin. Cannot load NVRAM state. Maybe first run of Xemu? On next Xemu run, it should have been corrected though automatically! So no need to worry.
Click the OK button and another warning will display stating:

Cannot open SD-card image /Users/<user_name>/Library/Application Support/xemu-lgb/mega65/mega65.img, SD-card access won't work! ERROR: No such file or directory
Click the OK button and one more dialog box will display stating:

Default SDCARD image does not exist. Would you like me to create one for you? Note: it will be a 4Gbytes long file, since this is the minimal size for an SDHC card, what MEGA65 needs. Do not worry, it's a 'sparse' file on most modern OSes which does not takes as much disk space as its displayed size suggests. This is unavoidable to emulate something uses an SDHC-card.
Click the Yes button to create the SDCARD image and Xemu will display the following:

Your just created SD-card image file has been auto-fdisk/format'ed by Xemu. Great :).
Click the OK button and Xemu will display the following:

Cannot find Xemu's signature on the SD-card image. Please use UI menu: SD-card -> Update files ... UI can be accessed with right mouse click into the emulator window.
Click the OK button and the MEGA65 emulator will try and boot; however, the boot cycle will not complete because no MEGA65.ROM file is available.

We’ll configure Xemu, now xmega65, to operate in the next section; however, congratulations! MEGA65 emulation is now running on your Mac.

Configure xmega65

With xmega65 running, configure the emulator with all the items we need to have an operational MEGA65 emulator running on our Mac. Read number 6 in the previous section and follow the steps below:

Right-click in the xmega65 window and a menu will appear.
From the menu, use the mouse/trackpad to select SD-card | Update files on SD image. The select your ROM image file window will appear; however, we’ve not downloaded a .ROM file yet. Let’s do this next.

NOTE: There are two .ROM versions available for the MEGA65. The first is an closed .ROM that is available with a MEGA65 Dev Kit, or later a MEGA65, purchase. The second is an in development community open .ROM. I will demonstrate how to install the Dev Kit .ROM; however, the process for the open ROM is the same. Visit Open ROMs for MEGA65 page on the MEGA65 Files Host to download the open ROM if you don’t have access to the closed ROM. {UPDATE: 2021-09-01} There is no need to change the name of the .ROM file as I state in the video. xmega65 can detect the contents of the file.
Close the xmega65 app.
Start the xmega65 application.
Right-click in the xmega65 window and a menu will appear.
From the menu, use the mouse/trackpad to select SD-card | Update files on SD image. The select your ROM image file window will appear.
Navigate to the MEGA65.ROM file location.
Select the file and click OK. The prompt below will display:

System files on your SD-card image seems to be updated successfully. Next time you may need this function, you can use MEGA65.ROM which is a backup copy of your selected ROM. MEGA65 emulation is about to RESET now!
Click the OK button. You will receive the error below:

ROM version cannot be detected, and DMA revision auto-detection was requested. Defaulting to revision 1. Warning, this may cause incorrect behavior!
Click the OK button and xmega65 will boot as shown in the image below:

NOTE: If you use the Open ROM, the screen will look like the image below:

Congratulations! You now have a working version of xmega65 running a MEGA .ROM file. You are ready to explore the wonders of the MEGA65—if only you knew what to do next! Let’s cover that in the next section.

Access Configuration Files

You will want quick access to configuration files. I recommend you create a desktop (or other accessible location) symbolic link or alias to:

~/Users/{user_name}/Library/Application Support/xemu-lgb/mega65

In the folder are the following items:

├── CHARROM.ROM
├── MEGA65.ROM
├── 📁 default-files
├── keymap-default.cfg
├── mega65-template.cfg
├── mega65.img
├── nvram.bin
├── 📁 screenshots
└── uuid.bin

The two folders, default-files and screenshots are empty. When you take a screenshot in xmega65, it appears here; which is why I recommend a symbolic link for quick access.

The two .cfg files, keymap-default.cfg and mega65-template.cfg are user definable. I recommend no edits to the mega65-template.cfg until you have comfort with the settings and understand how a MEGA65 works.

I use a MacBook Pro and not all keys mapped to a 104 PC keyboard in the keymap-default.cfg file is available. I plan to create my own MacBook specific key configuration file. When/If I do, I’ll share on this blog and include on GitHub.

Below is the default keyboard-default.cfg:

# default settings for keyboard mapping
# copy this file to filename 'keymap.cfg' in the same directory, and customize (this file is OVERWRITTEN every time, you must copy and customize that one!)
# you can also use the -keymap option of the emulator to specify a keymap file to load (if the specific Xemu emulator supports, use -h to get help)
# Syntax is: EMU-KEY-NAME PC-KEY-NAME
# one assignment per line (EMU-KEY-NAME is always uppercase and one word, while PC-KEY-NAME is case/space/etc sensitive, must be put as is!)
# EMU-KEY-NAME ends in '*' means that it's a virtual key, it is emulated by emulating pressed shift key at the same time
# special line CLEARALLMAPPING can be put to clear all existing mappings, it make sense only as the first statement
# without CLEARALLMAPPING, only maps are modified which are part of the keymap config file, the rest is left at their default state
# PC-KEY-NAME Unknown means that the certain feature for the emulated keyboard is not mapped to a PC key
# EMU-KEY-NAME strings starting with XEMU- are special Xemu related 'hot keys'

# MEGA | MAC

DEL Backspace
RETURN Return
RIGHT Right
LEFT* Left
F7 F7
F8* F8
F1 F1
F2* F2
F3 F3
F4* F4
F5 F5
F6* F6
DOWN Down
UP* Up
3 3
W W
A A
4 4
Z Z
S S
E E
LSHIFT Left Shift
5 5
R R
D D
6 6
C C
F F
T T
X X
7 7
Y Y
G G
8 8
B B
H H
U U
V V
9 9
I I
J J
0 0
M M
K K
O O
N N
PLUS Insert
P P
L L
MINUS -
PERIOD .
COLON '
AT [
COMMA ,
POUND Delete
ASTERISK ]
SEMICOLON ;
CLR Home
RSHIFT Right Shift
EQUALS =
UARROW \
SLASH /
1 1
LARROW `
CTRL Left Ctrl
2 2
SPACE Space
COMMODORE Left Option
Q Q
RUNSTOP End
RESTORE Page Down
CAPSLOCK Unknown
NOSCROLL Unknown
TAB Tab
ALT Right Option
HELP PageUp
F9 Unknown
F11 Unknown
F13 Unknown
ESC Escape
XEMU-EXIT F9
XEMU-FULLSCREEN F11
XEMU-JOY-FIRE Keypad 5
XEMU-JOY-FIRE Keypad 0
XEMU-JOY-FIRE Right Ctrl
XEMU-JOY-UP Keypad 8
XEMU-JOY-DOWN Keypad 2
XEMU-JOY-LEFT Keypad 4
XEMU-JOY-RIGHT Keypad 6

Usage

Once xmega65 starts, you are ready to begin your journey into the world of the MEGA65. If you are familiar with 1980s 8-bit computers, and especially the Commodore varieties, you will feel at home with a simple program like the one below:

? "RETROCOMBS ";
FOR X = 1 to 100 : NEXT
GOTO 10

Go ahead, give it a try. I’ll wait. Now that I have xmega65 locked up in a continual self-promoting loop, you probably want to know where the RUN/STOP key is. That key didn’t find its way into modern computers; however, if you look at the keyboard configuration file in the previous section, we learn the END key is mapped to the RUN/STOP key. Wait a minute! If you are on a MacBook Pro, there’s no END key either! Never fear. FN + → is the equivalent of the END key and therefore mapped to RUN/STOP on xmega65.

Another Commodore key not available on the MacBook Pro is HOME. Similar to END; use FN + ‌←.

These two keys are the most useful and confusing, unless you know the “secret sauce.” With those two keys, new and seasoned Commodore users can begin their journey into BASIC on the MEGA65 with xmega65 on their Mac.

If you want a more familiar Commodore 8-Bit experience, press F1 to switch between 40 and 80 columns (default) mode. Remember, on the Mac you need to hold down the fn key and then tap the corresponding top row key.

xmega65 Menus

On the Mac, xmega65 does not place options on the Apple menu bar. Instead, you access menus with a right-click of a mouse or two-finger tap on a trackpad as shown in the image below:

MEGA65 Quick Start for Xemu

General Usage Page

Commodore 64 Mode

While MEGA65 mode may be what you see first, lurking in the code is a full function Commodore 64 emulator. Use the steps below to access C64 mode:

Type GO64. xmega65 will display the prompt, ARE YOU SURE?
Type Y and hit ⏎. xmega65 will enter C64 mode.

The C64 emulation for the MEGA65 and, subsequently, xmega65 is not fully baked. This mode is good for BASIC; however, you will run into compatibility issues with games and software. This will get better with time.

Function Keys

The xmega65 function keys perform the functions shown in the table below:

F-Key	Function
`F1`	Switch between 40/80 Column mode
`F2`	N/A
`F3`	List the `DIRECTORY` of disk
`F4`	`DIR "*=PRJ"` lists .PRJ files on disk
`F5`	Move left one word
`F6`	`KEY6`
`F7`	Move right one word
`F8`	Enter the machine language `MONITOR`
`F9`	Exits xmega65
`F10`	Reset xmega65
`F11`	Full-screen mode
`F12`	N/A

I use F1 and F3 the most. I find I like the original 40 character screen width and F3 is in my muscle memory from my Commodore Plus/4 series.

Load Software

There are several ways you can load and run software. This section will cover the most common methods.

Use the default `.d81` disk image

By default, a blank .d81 file is mounted to xmega65. You can mount others and we will do this later; however, let’s play with the default.

Type DIR and ⏎. The empty default directory will display and the disk image as the name “????”.
Type HEADER "RETROCOMBS",I65" and ⏎ to reformat the default image with the name RETROCOMBS` or change this to what you would like the name to be. The screen will blank as it formats the virtual disk image. The screen returns when the format is complete.
Type DIR and ⏎. The directory will display the disk image with the new name. You can now use the DSAVE and DLOAD commands to store BASIC programs.

You may wonder where this .d81 disk image is stored? This is helpful information if you decide to use this image for development and want to transfer the contents to the SD card of a physical MEGA65. You can mount another .d81 for this same scenario and we will cover that next; however, identifying this .d81 image location will help your understanding of how xmega65 works.

Remember the symbolic link we created earlier? Double-click it and you will see the directory listing again. In that listing is a file with the name mega65.img. Because the Mac can mount .img files, double-click it. It will mount and locate the image on the desktop. Double-click and you will see the files shown in the image below:

The content of this disk image mirrors what you find on the SD card for a physical MEGA65. With the image mounted, you can change the contents. I do not recommend this until you know what you are doing. It is easier to manage .d81 images external to the image file. So which .d81 files is the default for xmega65?

In the image above, the default .d81 file is named; MEGA65.D81. Were you expecting it to be named RETROCOMBS? Remember, the format name stored inside the emulated file. The Mac (or Linux/Windows) OS side is unique. Don’t rename the OS side file name (MEGA65.D81) or xmega65 will not find it. This is the required default name (and the same holds true for the physical MEGA65).

After you’ve explored, and not changed, the disk image; eject it from the Mac. Until you have more familiarity with this disk image, I recommend you forget all about it. Noodling around with it will corrupt your installation, causing you to be MEGA65-less. And who wants that?

Mount a `.d81` disk image

You can use other disk images and easily mounting. You can use the menus or you can drag-and-drop the image onto the xmega65 window.

When you drag a disk image on the xmega65 window, you will see the dialog box below. For a disk image, select the MOUNT as D81 option.

After you make a selection, use the DIR command to view the contents of the image. If you want two disk images mounted in devices 8 and 9, use the menus to select both disk images using the Finder.

NOTE: The drag-and-drop function works for both MEGA65 and C64 modes. This is a feature of xmega65 and not the emulated device ROMs.

Drag and drop `.PRG` files

Sometimes you locate a program file not on a disk image but in a .PRG file. You do not need to create a disk image, move this file to the image, and then mount the image. Running a .PRG file is as simple as drag-and-drop the file onto the xmega65 window. The xmega65 dialog box below will appear:

For a .PRG file, select the RUN/inject as PRG option. The program will load and run.

Final Thoughts

This is a great way to take the MEGA65 environment with you on the road. The keyboard mapping confuses things. After time, the muscle memory will kick in. There’s not an easy way to sync disk images and move them back and forth between xmega65 and a MEGA65. I hope that once the Ethernet port on the MEGA65 sees wide use, someone will develop a way to drop a disk image onto a cloud synced folder (such as Google Drive our Dropbox) for easy access.

Now that I know how to use xmega65, I have this nagging feeling that I should try to install this on a Linux device or Raspberry Pi. Something similar to my Combian pi/400 would be of interest as a portable device. My ultimate dream would be a bare-metal version for the Raspberry Pi 400!

The emulator is a work in progress and while you can use either an closed ROM or an open ROM, the open ROM needs much more work and the closed ROM is not yet available unless you own a Dev Kit. Please don’t ask me to share it. I enjoy being a part of the MEGA65 development community and would hate to be thrown out!

Join the Fun

You won’t want to miss that fun, so make sure you SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Help make this series better! Post your feedback, questions, and ideas. Let’s make this a community project. For now, leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

Thanks for watching and please let other Commodore fans know about my MEGA65 series of posts by sharing on social media using #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Build MEGA65 Tools on Mac OS X (Intel and M1) | And an intro to the MEGA65 community

2021-08-28T00:00:00+00:00

Before I begin, I want to send out a huge thank you to Gurce Isikyildiz for his assistance with these instructions. My first attempts to build these tools were unsuccessful. I posted a comment on the MEGA65 Discord channel about my struggles. Gurce responded; however, after several Discord interactions, it became apparent, I needed help (on many levels but in this case; help with Terminal commands). The mega65-tools are meant to build on an Intel Mac, but not on a newer M1 Mac.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Gurce sent me a Discord direct message with a Zoom link. I joined the Zoom meeting and was met by Gurce and his young daughter who was enjoying a tasty chocolate morsel! After a quick introduction, we began to troubleshoot. 10 minutes later, Gurce determined the Makefile changes necessary to build on the M1 Mac. I was off to the races. I’ll share those M1 modifications in this post.

Afterward, we chatted and I learned Gurce contributes his time to the project voluntarily in between his work and family life. His thoughts echoed my own, “How cool it was to be a part of the MEGA65 developer community”; although, Gurce’s contributions are far more substantial to the project than my occasional blog post and video! With each minute of my chat with Gurce, I thought to myself, he has taken time to help me, someone on the other side of the globe, who has no idea what he is doing. And as I stated in the Discord channel, Gurce has the patience of a saint!

I share this story to demonstrate the vibrant and welcoming MEGA65 community. Followers know, I was able to snag one of the 100 MEGA65 Dev Kits and I am not a developer. I felt a tad guilty snagging a Dev Kit knowing there was someone out there who could contribute more to the MEGA65 development; however, I’ve never felt like a second class citizen in the MEGA65 Discord channel.

While there may be slaps on the forehead when they read my questions, their responses are always kind, helpful, and understanding. The opportunity to watch this device unfold, try new things, and be a part of the community was worth my investment. I’ve not had this much fun with a computer since my first Commodore VIC-20 in 1982. This is the type of community you will want to be a part of once you own the, soon to be available, MEGA65. And you don’t have to wait. Drop into the Discord channel now. Someone is waiting to greet you and answer MEGA65 questions.

Now, on to the mega65-tools build instructions…

Table of Contents

{UPDATES 2021-08-29}: How to update the build files when changes are made and the addition of a m65.osx use example. Search for a date to find the changes.

Build Instructions
Update and build repository
Determine which USB serial device connection
- Command line
- M65 Connect
Use mega65_ftp.osx and m65.osx
Gurce recommends…
- For mega65_ftp.osx:
- For m65.osx, common use-cases include:
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Build Instructions

This process requires several build steps. Along the way, you will learn more about your Mac, GitHub, and the MEGA65. The instructions are in sections. Skip steps if have experience in different sections. The first step is to create a GitHub account.

Create a GitHub account

My instructions assume you have a free GitHub account. If not, follow the steps below:

There are ways to accomplish this without GitHub, but trust me, you want an account. All the cool kids have one.

Visit https://github.com/. The GitHub homepage will appear as shown below:
Enter an email address in the Email address text edit box as shown in the image above.
Click the green Sign Up for GitHub button. GitHub will present an animated and enjoyable account creation page.
Follow the prompts and once complete, login to GitHub.

Install Homebrew

Mac OS X includes the Terminal application and a *nix (short for Linix/Unix variant OSs) BSD-based back-end; however, there are several standard *nix tools missing. You can install these tools manually, but a better method uses Homebrew to install and manage these packages. Luckily, Homebrew installation is a single command line as shown in the steps below:

Load the Terminal app or preferably iTerm which I’ve customized with my own cool C64 inspired theme as shown in the image below.
In a browser, visit https://brew.sh/. On the center of the page is the terminal command necessary to install Homebrew.
Copy the command. The command below is current as of this writing:

/bin/bash -c "$(curl -fsSL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/HEAD/install.sh)"
Paste it into the terminal and press ⏎. The curl command will download, install, and configure several packages. This will take time. Grab a beverage or play a MEGA65 game while you wait.
When complete, verify installation with the command, brew -v. Brew will display the current version. For example, Homebrew 3.2.9.

Install `git` and `gh` on the Mac

With a GitHub account and access to brew packages, prepare the Mac to clone the mega65-tools following the steps below:

In the browser, open the mega65-tools repository at https://github.com/MEGA65/mega65-tools. The page includes information to clone the tools on your local computer but we must first use Homebrew to install git and gh.
Install git and gh using the command; brew install git gh. The packages will install on the Mac.

Grant gh access to your GitHub account using the command gh auth login. The prompt below will appear:

 ? What account do you want to log into?  [Use arrows to move, type to filter]
 > GitHub.com
 GitHub Enterprise Server

Select the default option; GitHub.com. gh will display the prompt below:

 ? What is your preferred protocol for Git operations?  [Use arrows to move, type to filter]
 > HTTPS
 SSH

Select the default option; HTTPS. gh will display the prompt below:
```
 ? Authenticate Git with your GitHub credentials? (Y/n)
```

Select the default option; Y. gh will display the prompt below:

 ? How would you like to authenticate GitHub CLI?  [Use arrows to move, type to filter]
 > Login with a web browser
 Paste an authentication token

Select the default option; Login with a web browser. gh will display the prompt below:

 ! First copy your one-time code: AAAA-0000
 - Press Enter to open github.com in your browser...

Copy the eight digit code or write it down. Press ⏎ to open the browser and display the Device Activation Page as shown in the image below:
Paste or type your activation code and click the green Continue button. The ‌Authorize GitHub CLI page will appear as shown in the image below:
Click the green Authorize github button. The Congratulations, you’re all set! Your device is now connected prompt will appear and the Terminal will display, ✓ Authentication complete. Press Enter to continue...

Press ⏎ to return to the terminal prompt. gh will display the prompt below and release the prompt:

- gh config set -h github.com git_protocol https
✓ Configured git protocol
✓ Logged in as {user-name}
mac-mini-basement:~ retrocombs$ █

Clone the mega65-tools repository

Your GitHub account is now associated with your local Mac and the gh command. You will use this new setup to clone the mega65-tools repository.

In the Terminal app, navigate to a directory to contain the clone of the repository. I recommend your home folder. You can quickly navigate to this location using the command: cd ~

Type gh repo clone MEGA65/mega65-tools. The prompts below appear and a clone of the repository is copied to the Mac.

Cloning into 'mega65-tools'...
remote: Enumerating objects: 5396, done.
remote: Counting objects: 100% (1076/1076), done.
remote: Compressing objects: 100% (452/452), done.
remote: Total 5396 (delta 781), reused 881 (delta 623), pack-reused 4320
Receiving objects: 100% (5396/5396), 11.82 MiB | 9.08 MiB/s, done.
Resolving deltas: 100% (2797/2797), done.

Type ls. You will find a new directory name mega65-tools.
Type cd mega65-tools to enter the directory. You can explore the contents with the ls command; however, you must always return to the root of the mega65-tools directory afterward.

TIP: If you want to explore the files in the repository, I recommend you use the Finder. Be careful not to move, delete, or copy files. Keep the repository intact.

To use the tools, the libusb library is necessary. This library provides the Mac command line with the libraries necessary to connect to the MEGA65 via a USB connection. More on this later. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP or the tools will not build. Install the libusb library with command below:

brew install libusb-compat

NOTE: If you have a Mac with a M1 Processor, stop here, drop down to the Mac M1 Instructions Modification section, complete the steps, and then return here.
To build m65.osx, type make bin/m65.osx. You may receive warnings; however, ignore them.
To build mega65_ftp.osx, type make bin/mega65_ftp.osx. This build will take more time than m65.osx and will generate warnings. Ignore them.
To view the new commands, type cd bin. The command builds are located in this directory.

List the contents of the directory using the command: ls -l. A directory listing similar to the following will appear:

 -rw-r--r--  1 stevencombs  staff      44 Aug 25 20:34 README.md
 -rwxr-xr-x  1 stevencombs  staff  174640 Aug 25 20:46 m65.osx
 drwxr-xr-x  3 stevencombs  staff      96 Aug 25 20:46 m65.osx.dSYM
 -rwxr-xr-x  1 stevencombs  staff  150260 Aug 25 20:50 mega65_ftp.osx
 drwxr-xr-x  3 stevencombs  staff      96 Aug 25 20:50 mega65_ftp.osx.dSYM

Two new commands, m65.osx and mega65_ftp.osx are now ready to use. We will use them from this directory for this tutorial; however, you can move and execute them from any folder. Seasoned *nix and Mac users will have a preference. If you’d like to share your preference, place it in the comments below. Let’s give one of these new commands a try but before we do, we need to determine which USB device the Mac uses to connect to the MEGA65.

Mac M1 Instructions Modification (Skip if you have an Intel Mac)

The GitHub repository includes a Makefile designed for Intel Macs. To build on an M1 Mac, perform these steps and then return to step 19 above.

Verify the Terminal is in the mega65-tools directory.
In the directory, use your favorite command line editor (vi, vim, nano, etc.) to edit the file named, Makefile.

{UPDATE 2021-08-31} Replace line #5 that begins with COPT=, not line #3 that begins with remark statement #COPT=, with the line below:

 COPT= -Wall -g -std=gnu99 -I/opt/local/include -I/opt/homebrew/Cellar/libpng/1.6.37/include/libpng16 -L/opt/homebrew/Cellar/libpng/1.6.37/lib -lpng16 -lz -I/opt/homebrew/Cellar/libusb/1.0.24/include/libusb-1.0 -L/opt/homebrew/Cellar/libusb/1.0.24/lib -I/usr/local/include/libusb-1.0 -L/usr/local/lib -mno-sse3 -mcpu=native

Save the file.
Return to step #19 in the previous section.

Update and build repository

{UPDATE: 2021-08-29} It is not necessary delete the entire folder and execute these steps when an update is available. Thanks again to Gurce, below are the instructions for both an Intel and M1 Mac.

Return to the mega65-tools directory using the command: cd ~/mega65-tools.
For M1 Macs, use the command, git stash. Git will preserve (stash) the M1 Makefile tweaks and revert to original Makefile.
Use the command, git pull to pull the latest source files.
{UPDATE: 2021-09-15 This step inadvertently put the local branch to fixes instead of master.} ~~Use the command git checkout fixes to switch to the ‘fixes’ branch.~~
For M1 Macs, use the command git stash pop to re-apply the Makefile modifications.
Build the commands using: make bin/mega65_ftp.osx and make bin/m65.osx.

Once complete, the most recent versions of the mega65-tools are ready to use.

Determine which USB serial device connection

There are two ways to determine the USB serial port that connects the MEGA65 to the Mac. The first way is to use the command line and the second way is to open the user friendly M65 Connect application.

Command line

Connect the MEGA65 to the Mac.
Ensure the MEGA65 is turned off.
Use the terminal commands below:
```
 cd /dev
 ls -l *usb*
```
TIP: If the ls -l *usb* search does not provide a list of devices, try ls -l *tty*.
This will be a small list. Note or copy the list of devices.
Turn on the MEGA65 and wait for a complete boot.
In the Terminal app, type ls -l *usb* and compare the new listing to the listing from step #2. Capture the name of the new device in this list that was not found in the previous list. In my use case, the device was listed as /dev/cu.usbserial-251633005A3B1.

TIP: The /dev folder, know as the device folder, provides *nix OSs, and users, a list of connected devices identified by devices files. This is a unique and valuable feature of *nix OSs. Without a wildcard, *usb*, this list is long. Read more.
Copy this device name and store it somewhere for later use. We will use it later to connect the Mac to the MEGA65 via the command line.

TIP: Mac users will want to use TextExpander to create a snippet for this long USB device file. Use this link for 20% off your first year!

M65 Connect

If the command line version looks daunting, you can use M65 Connect (available for Mac, Linux, and Windows) to identify the device file using a more familiar application download, install, and user experience (thus the truncated instructions below).

Download M65 Connect from the MEGA65 Files Host.
Install M65 Connect.
Load the M65 Connect application.
Press ⌘+O. The Connection Settings dialog box will appear.
Click the Autodetect COM Port button. The Connection Wizard will appear.
Follow the prompts closely as the wizard guides you through the steps necessary for M65 Connect to identify a new serial device, not dissimilar from the command line process in the previous section.
Once M65 Connect identifies the new device, copy the address.

Use `mega65_ftp.osx` and `m65.osx`

With the serial device file identified, you are ready to use the new command line tools. In this post, I don’t go into details beyond a quick connection and view of the SD card contents. At the end is a list command recommendations by developer Gurce.

`mega65_ftp.osx` example

In the example below, you will use mega65_ftp.osx to view the contents of the MEGA65 SD card:

Ensure the MEGA65 USB cable is connected to the Mac.
Turn on the MEGA65.
Use the the terminal command below to connect the Mac to the MEGA65:

./mega65_ftp.osx -l /dev/cu.usbserial-251633005A3B1

NOTE: Replace my /dev device with the device file name you identified on your Mac.

Several lines will appear and the prompt, MEGA65 SD-Card:/ will appear as shown below:

 Setting serial speed to 2000000 bps using OSX method.
 Failed to set OSX terminal parameters: Invalid argument
 Checking if MEGA65 has RX buffer
 [T+0sec] RX buffer detected.  Latency will be reduced.
 [T+0sec] RX buffer detected.  Latency will be reduced.
 [T+0sec] Stopping CPU
 i=0, bytes=25, strlen=11
 i=13, bytes=25, strlen=11
 [T+1sec] In C65 Mode.
 [T+1sec] Starting CPU
 Trying to switch to C64 mode...
 [T+1sec] Injecting string into key buffer at $02B0 : GO64[$0d]Y[$0d]
 [T+1sec] Waiting for MEGA65 KERNAL/OS to settle...
 Screen is at $0400
 Port $01 contains $e7
 [T+1sec] In C64 Mode.
 [T+1sec] Stopping CPU
 Helper in memory

 NOTE: Fast SD card access routine installed.
 SD card is SDHC
 Found FAT32 partition in partition slot 0 : start sector=$800, size=27494 MB
 Found MEGA65 system partition in partition slot 1 : start sector=$35b3ffe, size=2048 MB
 FAT32 file system has 27494MB   formatted capacity, first cluster =   2, 54883 sectors per FAT
 FATs begin at sector 0x238 and 0xd89b
 MEGA65 SD-Card:/> █

Use the dir command to list the contents of the SD Card.

`m65.osx` example

{UPDATE: 2021-08-29} Use the steps below for an example of the use of m65.osx that’s pretty cool:

Ensure the MEGA65 USB cable is connected to the Mac.
Turn on the MEGA65.
Use the terminal command below:

./m65.osx -l /dev/cu.usbserial-251633005A3B1 -T "10 print"
Press ⏎. The text 10 PRINT will transfer from the Mac to the MEGA65 on character at a time as if a ghost was using the MEGA65 keyboard.

With a connection from the Mac to the MEGA65, explore the commands in the next section to find out what is possible with the mega65_ftp.osx command.

MEGA65 File Transfer Program Command Reference:

dir [directory\wildcardpattern] - show contents of current or specified sdcard directory. Can use a wildcard pattern on current directory.
ldir [wildcardpattern] - shows the contents of current local directory.
cd [directory] - change current sdcard working directory.
lcd [directory] - change current local working directory.
put [destination name] - upload file to SD card, and optionally rename it destination file.
get [destination name] - download file from SD card, and optionally rename it destination file.
dput - upload .prg file wrapped into a .d81 file
del - delete a file from SD card.
mkdir - create a directory on the SD card.
cd - change directory on the SD card. (aka. 'chdir')
rename - rename a file on the SD card.
clusters - show cluster chain of specified file.
mount - Mount the specified .d81 file (which resides on the SD card).
sector <number$hex number> - display the contents of the specified sector.
getslot - download a freeze slot.
dirent_raw 0/1 - flag to hide/show 32-byte dump of directory entries.
clustermap [] - show cluster-map entries for specified range.
cluster - dump the entire contents of this cluster.
secdump - dump the specified sector range to a file.
secrestore - restore a dumped file back into the specified sector area.
secinfo - lists the locations of various useful sectors, for easy reference.
mbrinfo - lists the partitions specified in the MBR (sector 0)
vbrinfo - lists the VBR details of the main Mega65 partition
poke - poke a value into a sector, at the desired offset.
fh - retrieve a list of files available on the filehost at files.mega65.org
fhget - download a file from the filehost and upload it onto your sd-card
exit - leave this programme.
quit - leave this programme.

Gurce recommends…

I put a call out the Discord Channel for some cool things you can do with these new commands. Once again, Gurce to the rescue! He recommends the following:

For `mega65_ftp.osx`:

fh - retrieve a list of files from https://files.mega65.org/.
fhget <num> - Download the file and place on SD card.
dput <FILE.PRJ> - Place a .PRJ file into a .D81.

For `m65.osx`, common use-cases include:

NOTE: replace comx with the device file name identified.

Restart (-F), upload and run (-r) a C65 .PRJ file:

m65 -l comx -Fr myc65.prg
Restart (-F), switch to C64-mode (-4) and run a C64 .PRJ file:

m65 -l comx -F4r myc64.prg
Take a screenshot to .png file:

m65 -l comx -S
Remote type a fixed string (with carriage-return):

m65 -l comx -T 'print 1+1'
Continuously remote type stuff:

m65 -l comx -t -

Final Thoughts

While I’ve not spent a whole lot of time with these command line tools, here are a few things I’d like to see :

Use the Ethernet port on a network instead of the USB cable.
The mega65-tools needs a Mac universal binary installer. The process I document above is not for the faint of heart or new Mac users. To make the MEGA65 accessible to everyone, at least on a Mac, these tools must be packaged. If you are a Mac developer and want to do this work, reach out to me and I’ll connect you to the right folks. I wish I had the knowledge, and time, to learn how to make the package myself.
The m65 tools need a GUI for mass use. As with #2, I wish I had the time for this and I’m sending out another call to a Mac developer for help.
M65 Connect uses mega65_ftp.osx as its connection backend; however, it does not reveal all the tools. I’m sure updates to the application will include these in the future.

Interacting with the community to write this post, and the writing itself, was a blast. Throughout this project, I not only learned how to connect the MEGA65 to my Mac but I learned more about my Mac, the MEGA65, and the development process. Every new interaction with the MEGA65 and the community makes me feel like a member of a thriving developer community dedicated to the release of something special. As I’ve said before, start saving those pennies Commodore and 8-bit computer fans.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the MEGA fun, SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other MEGA65 related posts.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Ten cool things you will do with a MEGA65 | Includes 2 bonus items!

2021-07-26T00:00:00+00:00

Commodore computing fans will soon have a new device to add to their collection of retro-computers, the MEGA65. In this blog post and companion video, I look at what makes the MEGA65 special and then share items one through five of the ten cool things you will do with the MEGA65 that you can’t do with any other Commodore-inspired recreations such as The C64. Spoiler alert: I include a bonus item to tide you over until number 6 through 10 drop!

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

YouTube Videos Part 1 and 2: ‌Ten cool things you will do with a MEGA65
- Part 1 Video
- Part 2 Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Introduction
The Commodore 65 and the MEGA65
Top 10 Cool Things (1 through 5)
Conclusion
Join the Fun

YouTube Videos Part 1 and 2: ‌Ten cool things you will do with a MEGA65

In the videos below, I share the ten cool things that will excite Commodore retro-computing fans about the release of the MEGA65.

Part 1 Video

Part 2 Video

Video Errata

{2021-06-24 Update} That didn’t take long. I’ve had several comments that my game captures are the wrong video format. I recorded in NTSC and all games should have been set for PAL. The developers let me know that all games are designed for PAL mode. If you plan to use the MEGA65 for gaming, make PAL the default setting in the configuration utility.

{UPDATE: 2021-09-08} After the second video dropped, I received the wonderful and informational YouTube comment below from Anton Schneider-Michallek:

Great video! I’ve been looking forward to it. Thanks a lot! One thing to mention, the currently available cores are MiSTer ports. We work together with MiSTer team members and they are developing a conversion tool, that should make it easier in the future to port MiSTer cores over to the MEGA65. Also they are working on porting the C64 MiSTer core to the MEGA65, which will turn the MEGA65 into an almost 100% compatible C64.

And here is one extra cool thing you can do with the MEGA65: during the design of the MEGA65 PCB we decided, that we put some unused FPGA lines and 2 so called “PMOD”-connectors on the PCB, which will allow the MEGA65 to receive hardware expansions in the future like:

Userport

Tapeport

CRT video connector

SIM card reader (The MEGAphone is using those i.e.)

USB port

… whatever the community is fancy developing on it. The final MEGA65 case will have breakout ports in the unused space of the case, to make it easier to attach those hardware expansions. Here is a link, what you can use PMODs for: https://shop.trenz-electronic.de/en/Products/Digilent/Peripheral-Modules/

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the videos. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Introduction

TheC64 maxi/mini and TheVIC20 devices are wonderful Commodore computer revivals; however, these devices focus on software emulation with either a keyboard, USB joystick, or USB drive as the only hardware device options.I

What if you want an original Commodore computing experience that includes a Commodore specific keyboard, cartridge support, IEC devices, original game controllers, and mice? You might think the only option is to search eBay for a “working” used original Commodore computer. I recommend you wait. You may have the opportunity to purchase a new, in original box, MEGA65. This is the device you want.

I’m one of the lucky 100 (#00261 to be exact) MEGA65 DevKit owners and while I’m not a developer, I chose to use my DevKit to help spread the word about what will be the Commodore retro-creation you will want to own. With an impending release announcement, I want to get everyone excited about MEGA65. Here’s my list of the top 10 cool things you will be able to do on the MEGA65 that distinguish this device from other Commodore recreations such as THEC64 or software emulator VICE - The Versatile Commodore Emulator.

Before we look at the top 10, let’s take a quick look at what makes the MEGA65 special.

The Commodore 65 and the MEGA65

The MEGA65 is the recreation of an unreleased prototype Commodore computer, the Commodore 65. The history of the Commodore 65 is an interesting read and I encourage you to review the Wikipedia page on the computer.

CC BY 2.5, Link

According to the Wikipedia entry, the Commodore 65:

(also known as the C64DX) is a prototype computer created at Commodore Business Machines in 1990–1991. It is an improved version of the Commodore 64, and it was backwards-compatible with the older computer, while still providing several advanced features close to those of the Amiga.

According to the MEGA65 web page, the MEGA65 is:

the 21st century realization of the C65 heritage: a complete 8-Bit computer running around 40x faster than a C64 while being highly compatible. C65 design, mechanical keyboard, HD output, SD card support, ethernet, extended memory and other features increase the fun without spoiling the 8-Bit feel. Hardware designs and software are open-source (LGPL)

Instead of a chip-by-chip hardware recreation, the MEGA uses an FPGA, or Field-programmable Gate Array, to “emulate” physical hardware. This FPGA allows the MEGA65 to receive regular “core” updates, and as I will show later, provide functionality not available on the original C65.

Source: MEGA65

There’s much more to learn about the history of the Commodore 65 and its modern recreation, the MEGA65; however, that’s not for this post. This post highlights the top 10 cool things you will do with the MEGA65 upon release.

Top 10 Cool Things (1 through 5)

Let’s dive into the top 10 things you will do with the MEGA65.

1. Use an enhanced Commodore-layout keyboard

Throughout this video, I use the MEGA65 DevKit, which includes a wonderful mechanical keyboard. This is a similar keyboard to the one that the MEGA65 will include. Mechanical keyboards are all the rage and because of their popularity are more affordable; however, in the 1980s, full mechanical switch keyboards came on expensive [ cough ] IBM and IBM-clone business computers. Original Commodore keyboards were plunger-based. They weren’t bad, especially when compared to chiclet keyboards popular with other budget 8-Bit computers, and were relatively rugged. I don’t remember ever having an issue with my Commodore VIC-20 or 128 keyboards and I was a HEAVY user. Still, there’s room for a modern improvement to this old classic keyboard design.

The MEGA65 includes a cherryMX™ keyboard with a metal frame. They keys include the original PETSCII characters, colors, and functions printed right on the top and front of the keys. Using the keys is a joy during BASIC programming and disk access sessions. And these keys are not single stamped, but double-stamped for clarity and durability. They built this keyboard for the long haul and I’m looking forward to many years of use.

Here’s a bonus, use the keyboard with the C65 Notepad to take and share notes on the MEGA65.

2. Play C65 games that “could have been”

I can’t imagine that an 8-Bit computer can rival the graphics and gameplay of the original Commodore Amiga; however, the MEGA65 will emulate the original hardware specification of the Commodore 65 and include in emulation:

A 65CE02 (a MOS 6502 derivative) running at 3.54 MHz clock frequency
A VIC-III graphics chip named the CSG 4567 capable of producing 256 colors from a palette of 4096 colors that produces available 320×200×256 (8), 640×200×16 (4), 640×400×16 (4), 1280×200×4 (2), and 1280×400×4(2) modes
Supports all VIC-II video modes
Text mode with 40/80 × 25 characters
Synchronization with external video source (genlock)
Integrated DMA controller (bit blit)
Two CSG 8580R5 SID sound chips to produce stereo sound
Separate left/right volume/filter/modulation controls
128 KB RAM, expandable to 1 MB
128 KB ROM

Along with the entire collection of Commodore 64 games, the MEGA65 will also allow you to play C65 titles. The Commodore C65 was a huge performance upgrade to the C64 or even it’s more advanced, capable, and final Commodore 8-Bit sibling, the C128. With these enhanced features, we should expect some “next-level” 8-Bit games and developers for the MEGA65 don’t plan to disappoint.

Here are few in-development games to show off the features of the MEGA65:

MEGA Maze
The Job - An 80s inspired text adventure
Revolution
Smashout
Char-Wars 65
MEGADots
Toxic Frenzy 65
Luma - Puzzle game
Turrican Engine Demo

Although MEGA65 titles are in early development, they are promising and as developers dive into the capabilities of the MEGA65; the games are sure to highlight what could have been in the early 1990s had the C65 gone beyond prototype.

3. Use C64 Cartridges (Are C65 carts on their way?)

While we wait for MEGA65 game titles, we can use the collection of Commodore 64 game cartridges since the MEGA65 includes a C64 mode. Unlike TheC64 mini or maxi, the MEGA65 includes a cartridge port. When you insert a C64 cartridge into the MEGA65, it will boot straight to C64 mode.

Source: C64 Wiki

With my DevKit, most games work; however, some utilities cartridges, such as the Epyx FastLoad and TFW8B Kung Fu Flash don’t work. The developers know that C64 emulation is incomplete; however, they remain committed to compatibility and also support the creation of a dedicated C64 core (more on this later); both of which will increase C64 compatibility.

Huge thanks to @slofunk, aka Jamie for the opportunity to test a few of his cartridges on my MEGA65 DevKit. Some neighbors borrow lawnmowers; from my neighbor, I borrow retro-computing gear!

Can we expect C65 compatible cartridges? Maybe; however, it will probably be a home brew project. By default, the MEGA65 includes SD card and .D81 image file support. Unless you want the true, insert cartridge and boot experience, there’s really no reason to ship software on cartridge. I do hope some industrious developer will ship a title on cartridge, in a box, with instruction manuals and supplemental bonus materials. That’s the true retro-experience I’d like to have once again.

4. Learn to program (BASIC 10 and Eleven)

The joy of owning a computer in the 1980s was learning to program in BASIC. You had to if you wanted your computer to do anything. For me, it was a few months later before I could afford to purchase a Commodore Datasette for my Commodore VIC-20 and save the code I spent hours typing.

Finding software on cartridges and cassettes was impossible in the small town where I lived. There was a Radio Shack in town, but the only software they stocked was for their own TRS-80. My software option was to get a subscription to COMPUTE! and RUN magazines. Each month their arrival would include BASIC programs ready to type, save, and RUN. While typing in programs, I learned about BASIC programming commands and logic.

Luckily, the MEGA65 includes a huge upgrade to Commodore’s original BASIC version 1.0. Version 10 integrates commands from BASIC 3.5 found on the Commodore Plus/4 and version 7 found on the Commodore 128.

Be sure to check out my Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual series to see the new BASIC commands not included with the VIC-20 or C64.

BASIC is great; however, in development is a wonderful MEGA65 mode development environment called Eleven. With Eleven you develop games and software using an enhanced BASIC structure (no line numbers and GOTO statements) and compile the software right on the MEGA65. Add Eleven to the power of the MEGA65 and you have a convenient on device development environment. I can’t wait to dive into Eleven and try it.

5. Use a wired/wireless USB mouse or joystick

Unfortunately, many input devices from the 1980s didn’t last and finding devices that work can be a futile or expensive proposition. Game controllers were abundant by many manufactures and the MEGA65 uses the standard DB9 connector found on other systems such as the Atari 2600. The MEGA65 includes two DB9 connectors so you can use those early controllers or recent recreations such as the Competition Pro or the Hyperkin Trooper or Ranger which includes a paddle controller. Hyperkin produces the Ranger Adapter for Multiple Paddles. In the future, it may be possible to play four person paddle controller games on the MEGA65.

Commodore produced the 1351 mouse; however, to my knowledge, no one makes a modern recreation of a Commodore 1351 mouse and these are now hard to find and when you do, very expensive. Many titles made use of the mouse (one of which we will discuss later) and not having a mouse for the MEGA65 limits usability of older and newer titles such as M3wP Solitaire. Made with a mouse in mind; what are you to do if you don’t have one for things like Art Studio for the Commodore 64?

Source: C64 Wiki

Luckily, we live in a world where microcontrollers are a dime a dozen and tinkerers create amazing things such as the mouSTer from retrohax.net. What’s a mouSTer? It’s a device that allows the use of modern USB joysticks and mice on Atari and Commodore retro-computers.

Check out my full mouSTer post for complete information and video.

Since I published this article, the folks over at mouSTer have even provided the MEGA65 team with a 1351 firmware file ready for emulation.

The mouSTer and my wireless Victsing mouse, work perfectly with games such as Solitaire.

There were many titles for the Commodore 64 and 128 that used the 1351 mouse; however, there was one title where this mouse was a requirement and we’ll cover that in part two of this series. And there’s your teaser.

Besides mice, the mouSTer development team is also working on gamepad support so in the future you may use a USB retro gaming inspired controllers such as a theC64 Joystick or the Hyperkin Trooper II.

Those are the top five; however, I have two bonus “cool things” and I will include one of those in this video.

Bonus 1: Connect to a BBS and the Internet via Ethernet

The MEGA65 includes an Ethernet port. We will use this for many things; however, the first thing that pops to mind is, how do I connect the MEGA65 to the Internet and access a BBS via Telnet?

If you have an interest in this topic, I recommend you check out my Connect a Commodore Plus/4 to a BBS using a Wi-Fi modem post and video. In this video, I discuss how to access a BBS using Telnet and a Wi-Fi modem.

During the MEGA65 May 2021 update video, they connected the MEGA65 to the Boar’s Head Tavern BBS.

I reached out and told them I’d like to feature this functionality and they were kind enough to share their, work-in-progress, Haustierbegriff3 .D81 disk image. While this is a C64 title with specific BBSes pre-configured, it shows what will be possible and it should be easy to port that software to C65 mode. The experience is delightful and the telecommunications software supports the all-important Commodore graphics protocol.

6. Load software from multiple storage devices (SD, IEC, internal Floppy Disk)

The MEGA65 includes a port that no other modern Commodore recreation includes, the serial IEEE-488 (IEC) bus. This peripheral bus works with disk drives and printers and its inclusion on the MEGA65 means we can use devices such as the 1541/1571/1581 disk drives, MPS-801 Printer, or even a modern SD2IEC device. Using an original disk drive will provide an authentic user experience; however, the internal floppy on the MEGA65 makes for an integrated experience similar to floppy drives found on the Commodore 128D and the Amiga 500.

At the time of this writing, not all floppy drive controller features are functional; however, the MEGA65 does something interesting. When accessing a .D81 file on the SD Card, the mechanical drive makes access sounds. These are not drive sounds replicated from the SID. The MEGA65 fires up the physical drive to create hardware sounds. It provides an authentic hardware experience to SD card access.

Currently, the MEGA65 can read from the mechanical floppy; however, full drive support is coming soon, to include formatting and writing to both DS/DD and DS/HD floppies. Below is what gardners shared with me:

Writing to disks doesn’t yet work. I’m actively working on this at the moment. Tonight I am trying to make progress again on writing to floppies. Reading has been working for a long time…This is the penalty (and bonus) of doing everything ourselves from the ground up, including the floppy controller. Because of this we can even read or write Amiga and other disks later, and support HD disks!

An update was posted to the MEGA65 blog called Work on floppy formatting, CRC calculation and sector writing. It’s worth the read and when floppy drive support is complete, the MEGA65 will be the only Commodore-recreation to provide an authentic floppy drive experience. I can’t wait!

Until all features of the internal drive are operational, the MEGA65 uses an SD card. Drop as many .D81 files that will fit directly on the SD card and you can access them from the Freezer menu. At this time, The MEGA65 does not support .D64 or other disk image formats.

The MEGA65’s storage flexibility is unique among other emulators and hardware recreations. The C64 maxi/mini does not allow the use of original Commodore floppy drives or SD2IEC devices. The MEGA65 provides an original Commodore experience not found in any other recreation.

7. Run a C65 specific version of GEOS

In 1984, the Mac was released with its new-fangled mouse and pointer user interface. Two years later, Berkley Softworks brought its own point-and-click operating system to Commodore users and named it GEOS. GEOS is legendary in the Commodore community with versions for the Commodore 64, Commodore 128, and even the Commodore Plus/4. There was even a version ported to the Mac’s older 8-bit sibling, the Apple II.

The Commodore 128 version of GEOS was far superior to the Commodore 64 version due to more memory and a higher screen resolutions. I was a heavy user of the Commodore 128 version during college creating college technical writing documents, physics lab reports, and managing my college Pershing Rifles ROTC unit. I mentioned this in more detail in my previous Commodore 128 video; however, almost everyone thought I was using a fancy, and high dollar, Mac. I always enjoyed telling them I created my documents on my Commodore 128; which interestingly is the foundation version for the MEGA65 version of GEOS.

GEOS is famous because it should not have run on an 8-bit machine with a clock speed of 1 Mhz and less that 64 Kb of RAM. Later versions of the Commodore 64, namely the C64C, were available with a GEOS bundle and users could purchase a couple of models of specialized RAM expansion units to make things speedier. Commodore released the 1351 mouse (see above) in response to the popularity of the point-and-click user interface showing up in productivity software, but my guess is GEOS was the reason for more mouse sales.

It’s fun to imagine what GEOS could have been on the Commodore 65; however, we don’t have to! Developer falk will bring GEOS to the MEGA65 and he’s been kind enough to share his early work with me.

Understanding that there are components of GEOS, in an updated version for the PC called Breadbox Ensemble, tied up in a rights dispute I asked falk about the right to distribute a MEGA65 version. Here’s what he shared:

MEGA has the right to distribute GEOS with the MEGA65 machine including all Commodore files. TopDesk 1.x is open-sourced by permission of the original owner GEOS-USER-CLUB Germany. The GEOS kernal is based on a reverse engineered source available at https://github.com/mist64. CONFIGURE is based on a reverse engineering project at https://mumu21.se/. All other Apps/Tools binaries are bundled without source for the MEGA65 release.

Sounds like we have the rights issues all worked out. Let’s see what it looks like. Currently, GEOS is work in progress, but shows great promise with increased speed, higher resolutions, and a ton of memory. As mentioned earlier, add the mouSTer and a modern mouse and you have an 8-bit GEOS powerhouse. With additional development, there’s no reason this version of GEOS could’t rival a Mac of the same period. It’s exciting to see GEOS in active development and falk tells me:

The plan is to open-source the core system soon, so that contributions and team work in different development areas become possible.

falk shared his roadmap features:

GEOS M65 targets GEOS 128 compatibility on the one side, but the flexibility to use all MEGA65 hardware capabilities. Both are progressing…GeoPaint 128 and GeoWrite 128 are more usable. Currently working toward DeskTop 128 support. Besides different high-res video modes support for TopDesk 65, the plan is to introduce high-color video. Drive support goes from all the serial connected Commodore drives, via the native F011 MEGA 65 drives (physical and mounted SD .D81) to RAM drives supporting the MEGA65 internal HyperRAM. Joystick and 1351 mouse support is implemented and support high resolution modes.

falk finished his comments by telling me there is more testing and bug fixes; however, there are lots of features and ideas on the roadmap. It will be fun to watch the development of GEOS and it mature; as it should have in the 1980s.

8. Manage the MEGA65 using a modern PC

Modern retro-computing recreations rely on external storage, such as USB drives and SD cards, to replace aging tape and disk drive units. The MEGA65 is no different; however, while many devices such as The C64 required you to physically remove a USB Drive and move it to another computer to manage the contents, the MEGA65 team provides the hardware and software tools you need to connect it directly to a Mac, Linux, or Windows computer.

Hardware connection is a simple USB cable and the software you use is M65 Connect for Mac, Linux, and Windows (Now in version 1.6). Connect the MEGA65 to a computer, turn it on, load M65 Connect on the remote computer, and you can access and manage your SD Card and access additional features such as:

Drag and drop a .D81 or .PRJ file on to the M65 Connect windows to load software
Send files (PRJ, SID, Bitstream, Hickup, ROM, and BASIC)
Create and apply ROM patches
Create and send CORE files
View and save Console text
Reset the MEGA65
Change MEGA65 to C64 mode
Switch between PAL and NTSC mode
Take a screen capture of the MEGA65
Control the MEGA65 using the remote keyboard

In the future, these same tasks will be accomplished without a USB connection using the Ethernet port when the MEGA65 is connected to the network.

In item #7, I showed you how to play a .MOD files. Using M65 Connect, I can play a SID file on the MEGA65 with a simple drag and drop.

9. Play C64 `.SID` and Amiga `.MOD` files

I must admit, I changed number 7 based on a comment made on the MEGA65 Discord channel after I published the first five. Gurce commented that he hoped M3wP’s wonderful .MOD player, Manche (pronounced Man-chae) would make the list. I read the comment and thought, that’s much better than one of the items on my list. I started my research and asked Gurce for assistance. After setting up the MEGA65 to run Manche, I immediately realized it’s addition to the list was a good decision. Manche does an excellent job highlighting the four soft SID chips and four-channel stereo 16-bit digital audio capabilities of the MEGA65.

But before I played .MOD files, I wondered if I could play .SID Files. As we saw in the previous section, M65 Connect supports .SID files and playing them is as simple as a drag-and-drop. If you need SID files, check out the High Voltage SID Collection.

In my first five items, I shared that the MEGA65 has features that rival the Amiga. Playing .MOD files is one of those features. If you aren’t familiar with .MOD files and their Amiga history, here’s a quick summary from Wikipedia:

MOD is a computer file format used to represent music, and was the first module file format. MOD files use the .MOD file extension, except on the Amiga which doesn’t rely on filename extensions; instead, it reads a file’s header to determine filetype. A MOD file contains a set of instruments in the form of samples, a number of patterns indicating how and when the samples are to be played, and a list of what patterns to play in what order…The first version of the format was created by Karsten Obarski for use in the Ultimate Soundtracker; tracker software released for the Amiga computer in 1987. The format has since been supported by hundreds of playback programs and dozens of other trackers (such as the BassonTracker Amiga MOD Tracker and Player)

You can find .MOD files on the MOD Archive.

TIP: If you’d like to play .MOD files on a Mac, Linux, or Window computer, download the open source software, VLC Media Player. Surprisingly, it does a great job supporting this file format.

Here’s what makes Manche unique:

You load Manche from MEGA65 mode and it launches into C64 mode (using a MEGA65 trick)
It uses a high resolution screen
It reads the .MOD files not from a .D81 file, but from the files you load directly onto the SD card
Press F1 and then enter the name of the file on the SD card to load
Press the ␣ bar to toggle play and pause

Manche is in early beta and there are features I’d like to see including:

an SD card directory listing
support for an SD card directory that contains .MOD files
fast-forward and rewind features
instrument listing and meters

Below are instructions from Gurce (many thanks!).

Place the .MOD files directly on the SD card (not on a .D81 disk)
Mount MANCHE via the freeze-menu
Hold ⇧ and tap the [R/S] key.
Press F1 to bring up a cursor towards the top-left.
Type in the name of the mod file on your sd-card.
Press ⏎.
Press ␣ to toggle music playback.

Gurce was a huge help in not only making the suggestion, but helping me troubleshoot Manche on my MEGA65. That should be a “cool thing” itself; “working with a wonderful community of developers and fans.”

10. Install additional cores

The MEGA65 is built on top of a Xilinx Artix A7 200T FPGA. The beauty of an FPGA is ability to configure the circuitry to act like other digital devices, such as our favorite retro-computers. While the MEGA65’s primary design is to be a modern remake of the in development Commodore 65, it includes enough space, or slots, where you can install other “cores” to configure the FPGA to replicate other computers. Current cores include the Gameboy and ZX Spectrum; however, we can look forward to Atari, Amiga, and other retro-computing cores for the MEGA65.

Adding cores is a simple process. Place them on the SD card, boot into the MEGA65 core utility by holding the No Scroll key down and turning on the power switch. Select a core to flash by holding down the [ctrl] + the corresponding slot number (1 through 7). The core utility will recognize the cores available on the SD card. Select the core, press the return key, and prepare to wait for ≈ 10 minutes. Once the core is flashed, select it and hit ⏎. You can always swap the core later by returning to the core utility screen and selecting another core. The last core selected will always be the default.

Using the new cores is a simple process. Flash the cores to one of 7 available slots on the MEGA65, configure your SD card, and away you go! The Game Boy SD card instructions are simple; create a folder called /gbc and place your Gameboy or Gameboy Color (Gameboy Advanced is not supported) .ROM files in the folder. Plug in a joystick (I’m a huge fan of Hyperkin Ranger and Trooper controllers), select a game, and enjoy.

The ZX Spectrum SD card configuration includes a few additional steps, but follow the instructions on GitHub and you will have it running in no time. There’s something not natural about running ZX Spectrum software on a Commodore computer.

At the time of this writing, the ZX Spectrum core does not support the HDMI connection. Use the VGA connection for output to a monitor.

“But retroCombs, I can do this on a MiSTer!” You can; however, my personal gripe about cores on various devices is the keyboard and original experience. The ZX Spectrum core on my MEGA will always be a curiosity. Why? Great question! It’s the keyboard, retro-computing enthusiast friend of mine. When you add a ZX Spectrum core to the MEGA65, you have to figure out the keyboard mapping because the MEGA65 keyboard a Commodore layout, not a ZX Spectrum layout. This is why I backed the ZX Spectrum Next 2. I want an original hardware experience that includes an accurate keyboard.

A MiSTer, Source: MiSTer-Devel GitHub page

I might throw an Amiga core on the MEGA65 when it’s available, along with other Commodore cores; however, the Gameboy and ZX Spectrum cores don’t appeal to me on this machine. There are far too many obtainable recreations that provide a more authentic device experience.

Bonus 2: Make a phone call

What? You can make a phone call on the MEGA65. Well, no (at least not now, but could a VOIP application find its way to the MEGA65?); however, there is a companion device in development; the MEGAphone.

What’s a MEGAphone? First, it’s a handheld MEGA65. That’s right, all the processing power and retro-computing goodness of the MEGA65 in the palm of your hand. The MEGAphone includes a touch screen, on-screen keyboard, and game controls for on-the-go gaming. I do like a handheld device (and I’ll prove it in an upcoming blog post and companion videos).

Source: MEGA65

Second, it’s a phone with a “careful security design of the hardware, that isolates all the ‘untrustable’ parts, like the cellular modem.” The design will provide a secure phone, with exceptional longevity, that you can trust due to the open nature of the hardware/software solution that is no longer serviceable by the service provider, but by the consumer. Watch Paul Gardner-Stephen’s FPGA based mobile phone: Creating a truly open and trustable mobile communications device presentation on YouTube to learn more (and be entertained at the same time).

Third, it’s a mesh networking device that uses UHF packet radio. In the event of an emergency or pandemic, the mesh networking can spring into action to allow communication and data transfer to essential workers or public service officials. Adding a solar powered rechargeable battery will ensure the device has unlimited power for these emergencies. Oh, and you can use that same network to play games over UHF!

Fourth, it will use a Raspberry Pi compute module to allow the installation of Android with a focus on accessibility features. As the father of a special needs child, I appreciate this added focus on making the MEGAphone not only a fun device, but one that can help provide access for those with disabilities. Utilizing a compute module will allow the MEGAphone to continue to receive hardware and Android updates for many years to come; unlike current phone designs.

There’s much more to learn about this device. Work on the MEGAPhone and the MEGA65 in tandem supports the development of each platform. This will be another project to follow. You can read all the details at the MEGAphone PCB Changes blog post.

Paul Gardner-Stephen was kind enough to share exclusive video the MEGAPhone. In the video, I share a brief snippet. Be sure to check out the entire video at https://youtu.be/diaDNGISA_k to learn more about the hardware on this much anticipated mobile version of the MEGA65. Thank you, Paul, for being a part of this blog post and companion video!

Conclusion

That’s it for parts 1 and 2 of this MEGA65 10 cool things series. I hope you enjoyed the ten things and the two bonus items for a “cool dozen!” Did I miss something? Let me know via email at retrocombs@icloud.com or drop a comment below. If I receive enough “things,” it might persuade me to produce a part 3! And I’d have a whole lot of fun researching those “things.”

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🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Connect a Commodore Plus/4 to a BBS using a Wi-Fi modem

2021-06-07T00:00:00+00:00

I’ve spent much time with the Commodore Plus/4, a Commodore computer I didn’t own in the 1980s, and while I’ve worked my way through chapters one through eight of the user’s manual, there are many other things I want to do with this capable 8-Bit, and unloved, Commodore computer and today is one of those things! In this post and companion video, I describe my experience connecting a Commodore Plus/4 computer to the Particles! BBS using a Commodore4Ever provided Wi-Fi modem and Telnet. It’s a lot of fun and I hope you enjoy this experiment and jaunt down 1980/90s telecommunications lane.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Before you read this post, take a look at my companion video below.

Table of Contents

YouTube Video: Connect a Commodore Plus/4 to a BBS using a Wi-Fi modem
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Introduction
Bulletin Board Systems
Universal Asynchronous Receiver-Transmitter hardware
The Commodore4Ever WiFi232 Internet Modem
Test BBS
Terminal Software
Compatible Plus/4 Software
- +4 Modem
- HiggyTerm
- Terminal
- Term-80
- Video Tex
- Work Bench
Wi-Fi Modem Setup
Connect to the Particles! BBS
Tweet sent from Commodore Plus/4
Final Thoughts
Term-80 Help Window Translation
- English Translation
- Original German
Join the Fun

YouTube Video: Connect a Commodore Plus/4 to a BBS using a Wi-Fi modem

In the video below, I share my experiences connecting a Wi-Fi modem to a Commodore Plus/4 and then “dial-up” the Particles! BBS.

Video Errata

None as of 2021-06-07; however, I’m sure there will be soon!

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Commodore4Ever

2022-01-16 UPDATE: Commodore4Ever has unfortunately closed their doors. Similar Wi-Fi modems are available on eBay at: https://ebay.us/h8vKP3
Wi-Fi Modem
PiDRIVE ZERO Raspberry Pi HAT 1541 1581 Commodore 64 128 Vic-20 Emulator OLED Pi
My Pi1541 Assembly and First Use
Zimodem C64Net WiFi Firmware
Particles BBS, since 1992
Official Commodore4Ever Setup Video
BBS Software for Plus/4
Plus/4 World Telecom Software List

Introduction

I didn’t get a chance to experience the full breadth of the BBS scene back in the early 1980s; however, I always imagined myself logging into WOPR to play a game. Come on, if you were a teen and saw the 1983 movie Wargames, I’m sure you went out and made modem a modem purchase. Right?

As I’ve mentioned previously, my first computer was a Commodore VIC-20; purchased while in high school. The only devices connected were a television and a Datasette. A couple of years into college, I sold my VIC-20 and upgraded to a Commodore 128. After the start of a couple of BBSes in my college town, along with the popularity of Quantum Link (who later became AOL and “you’ve got mail” folks), I purchased a 300 baud modem. It was painfully slow and using the Commodore online service Quantum Link was a costly proposition because there was no local access number in my area. However, after they transitioned to AOL; local numbers popped up all over; as did those CDs in the mail. But I digress. There was a BBS or two in town; however, they were Apple/Mac centric with little Commodore content.

Our local college hosted a computer-agnostic bulletin board; however, that BBS was geared to educational services with a few online games such as Star Trek and Black Jack which were leftovers from the teletype days; fun, but even then, showing their age.

Even though my BBS experiences were limited, I have fond memories of using my C128 and VIP Terminal XL to connect to the college, Quantum Link, a few local BBSes, and occasionally a long distance BBS. VIP Terminal XL was not the most popular terminal program at the time, but I enjoyed the fun and colorful interface.

Bulletin Board Systems

Before the availability of the Internet to the public, there were bulletin board systems and 300 baud modems that made funny sounds to connect Commodore computers to these BBSes using the phone line. Connecting to a BBS meant that the home phone was tied up. Wikipedia has this to say about BBSes.

A bulletin board system or BBS (also called Computer Bulletin Board Service, CBBS) is a computer server running software that allows users to connect to the system using a terminal program. Once logged in, the user can perform functions such as uploading and downloading software and data, reading news and bulletins, and exchanging messages with other users through public message boards and sometimes via direct chatting. In the early 1980s, message networks such as FidoNet sprang up to provide services such as NetMail, which is similar to internet based email.

Many BBSes offer online games in which users can compete. BBSes with multiple phone lines often provide chat rooms, allowing users to interact with each other. Bulletin board systems were in many ways a precursor to the modern form of the World Wide Web, social networks, and other aspects of the Internet. Low-cost, high-performance modems drove the use of online services and BBSes through the early 1990s. InfoWorld estimated that there were 60,000 BBSes serving 17 million users in the United States alone in 1994, a collective market much larger than major online services such as CompuServe.

Universal Asynchronous Receiver-Transmitter hardware

The Commodore Plus/4 includes additional hardware not found in other Commodore 8-bit computers that make it the prefect telecommunications computer. The 6551, also know as the 8551, UART chip. According to the Commodore Plus/4 page…

…unlike the C64 which emulated the 6551 chip in software, the Plus/4 had a built-in MOS Technology 6551 universal asynchronous receiver-transmitter (UART) chip that could perform up to 19200 bps. This allowed the Plus/4 to use high-speed modems without additional hardware or software tricks (the C64 required speciality written software to operate at 2400 bps), at a time when 300 or 1200 bps modems were more common — and Commodore never released a 2400 bps modem. This feature went unnoticed and unused.

The Plus/4’s business focus and the inclusion of the 6551 meant this computer was suited for telecommunication applications; however, because of the short life-span of the TED series, this feature was never exploited. Instead, the Plus/4’s telecommunications capabilities languished in obscurity.

The Commodore4Ever WiFi232 Internet Modem

You might think the BBS scene died with the advent of the Internet and networking; however, there are BBS operators who have kept their BBS in operation since the 1980s; and using original hardware! There are others who have deployed a BBS on modern hardware. Many BBSes are available today using a phone line; however, a modem is no longer an option since there is no phone line in my home and even if there were, no Commodore modem is capable of the 19200 bps which I intend to test.

Thankfully, these same operators have their BBS hardware connected using an Internet application protocol, developed in 1969, know as Telnet that is still available on the World Wide Web.

With the advent of modern microcontrollers and open-source software, makers and 8-bit computing enthusiasts have been able to recreate a land-line modem experience, using Telnet. For my experiment, I used the Commodore4Ever, Wi-Fi Modem. This page describes the device:

The Commodore4Ever Wifi Modem v2.3. allows you to connect to your favorite Commodore BBSs via Telnet. Supports speeds from 300 to 9600 baud. For use with Commodore 64 up to 9600 baud, a Commodore128 up to 2400 baud, Vic-20 up to 1200 baud, and also a Plus 4 - I have no personal experience with this one.

I want to offer a huge thanks to Commodore4Ever for sending me a Wi-Fi modem to test on the Plus/4. I wasn’t sure it would work and they were kind enough to send me one for free along with my purchase of their PiZero 1541. Speaking of the PiZero 1541, I’m still working on my 3D printed case to match up with my TEDuino.

The hardware uses a modification of Bo Zimmerman’s Zimodem open source software combined with a ESP8266 and a custom Arduino board to create a modern Wi-Fi connection with Telnet access that uses standard and updated Hayes modem commands. New Hayes modem commands allow the user to configure the Wi-Fi modem as we’ll see later. Below is a representation of how all this works:

Before working on this video, I had no experience with a modern Wi-Fi Telnet modem. I didn’t even know they existed until early 2019. After many hours with one, I can tell you, they are a blast! Do yourself a favor and head on over to Commodore4Ever.net and grab one for your Commodore computer, now including the Commodore Plus/4!

Test BBS

Before I connect the Wi-Fi modem with Commodore Plus/4 to a BBS, I need to identify a test BBS and connect using Telnet. There are not a plethora of Plus/4 and C16 specific BBSs. I finally landed on the Telnet BBS Guide and searched for “Plus/4”. PARTICLES! BBS at particlesbbs.dyndns.org:6400 was the only result. In operation since 1992 and now using a Commodore 128, I chose this BBS for my experiment. There are many other Commodore specific BBS options and you can view the results of a Commodore search here.

If you want to connect to this BBS in your browser and see all it has to offer, click here. Want to go “old school?” Use an old school modem/phone line combo and dial 1-479-553-8122. I you don’t have a modem or classic computer and want to visit this bbs, you can visit using Telnet with the command telnet particlesbbs.dyndns.org 6499.

Terminal Software

With an identified BBS, it was time to select Plus/4 software. Selecting Commodore Plus/4 telecommunication software was the hardest and longest part of this journey. There isn’t a modern equivalent to the popular and up to date Commodore 64 softwareCCGMS 2021. The Plus/4 hasn’t received the same telecommunication software love. All software was abandonware from 1980s and 90s and my search took me to the Utilities|Modem area of the Plus/4 World website that lists the software below:

+4 Xmodem
ASCII-Transfer
Atari Terminal Emulator
BBS Term+ V1.2
BBS Term+ V1.2 Quickv 1
Digicom-16
HiggyTerm
Microterm 264
Mini-term V1
Modem RS232 V1.2
Plus4 Online
RS232 File Receiver
RS232 VT100 Terminal
Teleterm V4.0
Term-80
Terminal
Terminalsoft
Videotex Terminal
Work Bench
Xmoterm Plus4 V2.0

Because telecommunications software was not as prolific as games and business software, there is little to no information online for these titles. Adding to the complication was several titles have a German interface. Not a huge issue for me, or you if you have Google Translate handy, but it does complicate configuration of the software to match the requirements of the Wi-Fi modem.

I tried every one of these titles. Many were “flat-out” not an option because they topped out at 2400 bps or lower and I didn’t want the original 300 baud experience but a more modern 9600+ bps. After many hours of trial and error, I was able to activate the Wi-Fi modem and dial a BBS.

Compatible Plus/4 Software

From the Plus4World list, I was able to configure +4 Xmodem, Higgyterm, Terminal, Term-80, Video-Tex, and Workbench - with varying degrees of success. Let’s take a look at each one and then select the one that should be our goto telecommunications platform on the Commodore Plus/4. Before I begin, the only software that remotely supported color was Terminal. None support Commodore graphics. Browsing a BBS on the Plus/4 is a pure text experience. Basic, but gets the job done. Higgyterm is the only software to support baud rates up to 19200 (which the Wi-Fi modem supports) and as the name implies, Term-80 is the only software to support 80 columns. Let’s take a look at each of these pieces of software below and what I learned.

+4 Modem

This is a correction to my video. There was a single successful connection to the modem. I have not been able to get this one working since that first attempt. Stay clear of this one.

HiggyTerm

Speeds up to 19200
40 columns
No ANSI color support
Use to configure the Wi-Fi modem.
Better stability and character error correction when baud rate set to 2400

Terminal

German interface
Speeds up to 9600
40 columns
Use ate0 to turn off echo in the Terminal view
Issues with error-checking and many random characters
Slow performance all around and despite baud rate.
Buggy and locks up.

Term-80

German interface (see below for a translation)
Supports 19200
80 columns but can difficult to view
The only package with ANSI support!
Use C= + a to turn on ASNI character/color support
Use ⇧ + . for : character for telnet address

Video Tex

Supports 19200
Fast display of characters
40 columns
Can’t connect to particlesbbs due to rendering of characters
No graphics support
Can’t use Inst/Del key since it’s a menu activation key. Use the back cursor instead.

Work Bench

Supports 19200
Speedy interface
40 columns
Shares a front-end interface with Video Tex but has a different Terminal
Excellent error-checking and character presentation in text mode

In the next section, I demonstrate how to configure the Wi-Fi modem on the Plus/4 with these software titles using a combination of instructions from Commodore4Ever and a lot of trial and error.

Wi-Fi Modem Setup

Below are the steps I used to configure the Wi-Fi modem using the HiggyTerm software. You can use these same steps with Term-80

Ensure the Plus/4 is turned off.
Plug the Wi-Fi modem into your Commodore user port with the chip side up.
Turn on the Commodore Plus/4. A solid blue light will illuminate on the Wi-Fi modem.
Load HiggyTerm. I used my Pi1541.
Ensure the following in the settings menu: 9600 bps, 8 word length, No Parity, 1 Stop Bit, and Echo Off.
Exit the settings menu.
Enter terminal mode.
Press Return. The modem’s firmware information screen will display acknowledging it is active.
Connect to your Wi-Fi network using the Hayes commands below:

at$ssid=ssid | Substitute ssid with the Wi-Fi broadcast name.

at$pass=password | Substitute password with your Wi-Fi network password. NOTE: The ssid and password` cannot contain any special characters. Commodore4Ever recommends the use lower-case letters and numbers.
Connect to the Wi-Fi network using the command below:

atc1 | I found this command will sometimes not work on the first or even second attempt.
Per the Commodore4Ever instructions, use the commands at&p0 then at&k1. Without doing this 9600 baud will lock up your Commodore. I didn’t try it without these commands and can’t verify these are required for the Plus/4.
Use the command below to set the baud rate to 9600:

at$sb=9600
Save your settings to the Wi-Fi modem using the command below (these settings are saved in non-volatile memory):

at&w | Settings are stored on the Wi-Fi modem’s onboard memory
Connect to your Wi-Fi network with the command below:

atc1

When you see an IP address assigned and a connection notification, you are ready to “dial-up” your first BBS.

Connect to the Particles! BBS

Type the command below to connect to the Particles! BBS.

atdt particlesbbs.dyndns.org:6400 | Ensure you include the port (6400) number.

Your Commodore Plus/4 now has a Telnet connection to the BBS.

Tweet sent from Commodore Plus/4

I did visit the FozzTexx BBS, available using atdt telnet bbs.fozztexx.com, and they had a cool feature, send a tweet! Below is my first tweet sent from a Commodore Plus/4 computer.

Tweet sent from a Commodore Plus/4 computer using a Commodore4Ever Wi-Fi modem! /sent via https://t.co/AchtSOwigj
— Steven Combs (retroCombs) 🕹️ (@StevenCombs) May 31, 2021

Final Thoughts

This project was fun! It has been a long time since I’ve tried something brand new with a Commodore computer.
What a great supplement to my Commodore Plus/4 series. The user’s manual mentions modem use; however, there’s little additional information. Hopefully, this post and companion video will bring more Plus/4 users online and allow them to connect to their favorite BBS.
I’m aware that there may be Hayes modem commands that could help a few of these software packages work more efficiently; however, there’s not much documentation and I could have spent days optimizing and trying alternatives. I let it go after several weekends. Feel free to dive in and leave your comments below.
If you can get comfortable with the German interface and 80 columns fonts, Term-80 should be your go to Commodore Plus/4 telecommunications program. It is the only package with ANSI support and makes browsing sites more colorful.

Term-80 Help Window Translation

A mixture of translation from my own broken German with assist from Google Translate. For my German speaking followers, please send me feedback to make this translation correct.

English Translation

     Term-80 (c) 1994 by Solder of SYNERGY Tel/BTX: 039424/5302

CBM A  Ansi/VT52 on/off                     N  Buffer Clear
    B  Buffer on/off                        O  Disk Protocol on/off ??
    C  Disk Command                         P  Printer on/off
    D  Data Receive (X/Y-Modem)             Q  Quiet-Mode on/off
    E  Echo on/off                          R  Return-Limit on/off
    F  Disklog Open/Close                   S  Send X/Y-Modem
    G  Configuration Load                   T  Textfile View On Disk
    H  Help                                 U  Clock Reset
    I  Disk Content (Directory)             V  Send Text File from Disk
    J  Configuration Save                   W  Buffer Save
    K  Reassign F key                       X  Buffer Send
    L  Buffer Load                          Y  Y-Modem Batch File Selection
    M  Buffer View                          Z  Buffer Memory

    CTRL 0-9  Send Macro              CBM 0-9  Define Macro
    CBM F1    Wahlverzeichnis ??      CBM F2   Parameter Screen
    CBM F3    Terminal Parameter      CBM F8   Hardware Parameter
    SHIFT     Stop Display            CTRL     Slow Display
    F1-F8     Function-Buttons        STOP     Cancel Function

             <Button>

Original German

     Term-80 (c) 1994 by Solder of SYNERGY Tel/BTX: 039424/5302

CBM A  Ansi/VT52 an/aus                     N  Buffer löschen
    B  Buffer an/aus                        O  Diskprotokoll an/aus
    C  Disk Kommando                        P  Drucker an/aus
    D  Datan empfangen (X/Y-Modem)          Q  Quiet-Modus an/aus
    E  Echo an/aus                          R  Return-Limit an/aus
    F  Diskprotokoll öffnen/schlißen        S  Sende X/Y-Modem
    G  Konfiguration laden                  T  Textfile von Disk ansehen
    H  Hilfe                                U  Uhr Reset
    I  Disk Inhalt (Directory)              V  Textfile von Disk senden
    J  Konfiguration speichern              W  Buffer speichern
    K  F-Taste neu belegen                  X  Buffer senden
    L  Buffer laden                         Y  Y-Modem Batch Fileauswahl
    M  Buffer ansehen                       Z  Buffer Zeichen frei

    CTRL 0-9  Macro senden            CBM 0-9  Macro definieren
    CBM F1    Wahlverzeichnis         CBM F2   Bildschirm Parameter
    CBM F3    Terminal Parameter      CBM F8.  Hardware Parameter
    SHIFT     Anzeige anhalten        CTRL     Anzeige langsamer
    F1-F8     Joker-Tasten            STOP     Funktion abbre

             <Taste>

Join the Fun

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Jeffrey Phipps - Will always be my first supporter and #1 in my heart!
Glen Rapoza - Coming in at second is always respectable.
??? - This could be you! Buy me a coffee now to ensure your place on this entrusted support shrine (which will have it’s own page soon)

Don’t miss the fun, SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

Thanks for reading and watching and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs on your favorite social media platform.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual Chapter 8 - Making Sound and Music on the Plus/4

2021-05-14T00:00:00+00:00

This last chapter in the user’s manual takes us on a musical and noise infused journey through Commodore Basic and the Plus/4 SOUND and VOL commands. The Plus/4 was not capable of the amazing sounds that come from it’s older brother and sister, the Commodore 64 or the 128. Heck, it wasn’t even as capable as the earlier VIC-20; however, with a little effort and creativity, you can put the two channels to use in business applications; the primary market for the Commodore TED series.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Despite these limits, you can still have some fun as it appropriately demonstrated in the last BASIC program in the chapter. Beware! The original printed manual had many errors. I correct these; however, imagine the frustration of a user in the 1980s trying to debug these programs.

Table of Contents

Series Information
Companion Disk Image
User’s Manual
YouTube Video: ‌Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual | Chapter 8 - Making Sound and Music | Beeps, boops and bops!
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Key to Keys
Video Introduction
Introduction
- Make Tone Program
The Volume Command
The Sound Command
- Musical Range Program
A Musical Sound Effect
- Sound Effect Program
Creating a Noise Sound Effect
- Windstorm Program
Making Some Music
The Great Plus/4 Music Machine
- Music Machine Program
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Series Information

This episode is a small part of my larger Commodore Plus/4 series. You can read the entire series and view additional resources at:

</plus4>

Companion Disk Image

As I progress through the user’s manual, I enter and execute sample programs. The link below is to a .D81 image that contains every program from each episode. Like the series, the image is not complete.

retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image

I use the following file name convention to make it easy to locate specific programs:

Sample Program Name: 02 RCOMBS SCROLL.PRG

02 - The chapter number
RCOMBS SCROLL - my self assigned name for the BASIC program which will be immediately identifiable if you follow along.

User’s Manual

As part of my Commodore Plus/4 YouTube series, I work through each chapter of the Plus/4 manual. I’ve taken the time to scan each chapter so you can read and follow along. Use the link below to view chapter 8:

Chapter 8 - Making Sound and Music on the Plus/4

Below are the links for previous chapters covered:

YouTube Video: ‌Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual | Chapter 8 - Making Sound and Music | Beeps, boops and bops!

In the video below, I work through Chapter 8 of the Plus/4 user’s manual and explore the VOL and SOUND BASIC 3.5 commands.

Video Errata

None as of 2021-05-14.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Chapter 7 - Using Graphics and Color

Key to Keys

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations as shown in the table below:

Key	Description	Key	Description
`⇪`	Caps Lock	`F1`	Function 1
`[C=]`	Commodore	`F2`	Function 2
`⌃`	Control	`F3`	Function 3
`⎋`	Escape	`F4`	Function 4
`⌂`	Clear/Home	`F5`	Function 5
`⌫`	Insert Delete	`F6`	Function 6
`⏎`	Return	`F7`	Function 7
`[R/S]`	Run/Stop	`F8`	Help
`⇧`	Shift	`␣`	Space
`↑`	Cursor Up	`↓`	Cursor Down
`→`	Cursor Right	`←`	Cursor Left

Video Introduction

Thank you to all my 1500+ subscribers viewers! Glad there are niche folks who like my content.
Don’t forget to subscribe to the channel!
.d81 disk image is available here.
A lot of good feedback on my last blog post/video; Transfer BASIC Programs in Print to Physical Commodore Computers where I share my technique to move printed programs from, say, users’s manuals, to a physical Commodore computer or emulator.

Introduction

The Commodore Plus/4 includes the (Text EDitor)TED 7360 (which is how the C16, C116, Plus/4 and the unreleased V364 (with voice synthesizer) line of computer came to be known as the TED Series). The TED is an integrated MOS Technology chip that handled; video, sound; DRAM refresh, interval timers, and keyboard input handling.

LEARN MORE: Check out the wonderful Commodore Plus/4, 16, 264, 364 “TED” Series – The Beginning of the End – Commodore Computers: C64 VIC20 PET C128 Plus4 – 8 Bit PC’s page.

We’ve seen the five video modes the TED supports in Chapter 7. Let’s see what sound and music we can create using the built-in tone generator. This generator contains two channels; one square wave and a second channel capable of either a square wave or white noise.

The TED is not as capable as the SID found in the Commodore CBM-II, C64, MAX, or C128. The TED was designed for business applications and the sound capabilities of the chip were downgraded from the SID to better match these applications. Remember, the Plus/4 (and TED series) was originally designed for productivity users, not for gaming.

Make Tone Program

While limited, compared to the SID, the TED includes a tone generator with two audio channels that creates music and sound. Combined the tone generator can produce either two tones or one tone plus white-noise. Let’s dig in and see we tones and tunes we can produce.

VOL 8
DO
INPUT X
IF X > 1023 OR X < 0 THEN ? "0 TO 1023, PLEASE" : GOTO 30
SOUND 1,X,10
LOOP UNTIL X = 0

💾 On Disk: 08 MAKE TONE

When you RUN the program, a ?, or input, prompt will appear. Type a number from 0 to 1023 and press ↩ to hear a short tone. Modifications in tone are hard to distinguish between steps of 50.

The program above uses the only two BASIC commands necessary to produce sounds, music, or tones. Those commands are VOL and SOUND. To create a sound in immediate mode (without programming line numbers) try these two lines:

VOL 8
SOUND 1,266,60

We will break these commands down in the next two sections; however, modify the first variable in the SOUND command from 1 to 2. Notice a difference? You shouldn’t. The 2 changes to the second sound channel which has duplicate capabilities to channel 1 unless you change the first variable to 3. This does not turn on a third channel, but activates the white-noise feature of the second channel. This example gives us a look at how we can use the TED to generate not only business tones, but sound and music for games. Sadly, for the TED series, even the older Commodore VIC-20 had better sound capabilities with three channels and a white-noise generator.

Let’s trudge on and learn how to generate interesting tones on the Plus/4 using these two BASIC commands combined with everything we’ve learned from the previous chapters.

The Volume Command

The VOL command is self-explanatory. The VOL command accepts values from 0 (off) to 8 (loudest).

Try the previous immediate mode commands again but change the volume as shown in the example below:

VOL 3
SOUND 1,266,60

VOL is useful; however, the SOUND command is the star of the show.

The Sound Command

Before we use the SOUND command, below is the syntax:

SOUND voice, note, duration

As you can see, there are three required options for the SOUND command:

voice - a number between 1 and 3 which represents the channel. Channels 1 and 2 produce the same output whereas channel 3 activates channel 2’s white-noise generator when the note values are between 600 and 940. Numbers outside that range produce interesting sound effects.
note - a number between 0 and 1023. A lower number produces a lower frequency and a higher number creates a higher frequency. There are four octaves of notes available. The image below displays shows a single scale of notes. Section 11 of the Plus/4 Encyclopedia (found in the back of the User’s Manual) includes a complete chart of notes.
1. duration - a number between 0 and 65535. Each number represents a sixtieth of a second. A values of 60 will produce a tone for one-second. A value of 65535 will produce a tone for ≈ 1092 second, or ≈ 18 minutes and 20 seconds!

Musical Range Program

Now for an example:

VOL 7
X = 0
DO
SOUND 1,X,5
X = X + 5
LOOP UNTIL X = 1020
VOL 0
END

💾 On Disk: 08 MUSICAL RANGE

The BASIC program uses the LOOP command to cycle through a series of notes from 0 to 1020. It may not be musical, but it does show the output range of the TED chip.

For fun, change the last value in line 40 from 5 to 1. This will speed up the range for a fun arcade sound effect. You can visualize a space ship taking off.

A Musical Sound Effect

Need the sound of a laser shooting marauding invaders from the sky? Type in this short program.

Sound Effect Program

VOL 8
FOR S = 1000 TO 700 STEP -25
SOUND 1,S,1
NEXT S

💾 On Disk: 08 SOUND EFFECT

This program uses a loop with a negative step values to go from high to low values. Play around with the values in line 20 and the duration value in line 30 for additional sound effect fun.

Creating a Noise Sound Effect

In the previous example a sound effect was created using musical tones. As mentioned, the TED’s channel 3 provides white-noise and sound effects. Try the program below to generate a background sound effect.

Windstorm Program

VOL 2
R = INT(RND(0)*10)+1
FOR X = 1 TO R
SOUND 3,600+30*X,10
NEXT X
FOR X = R TO 1 STEP- 1
SOUND 3,600+30*X,10
NEXT X
T = INT(RND(0)*100)+30
SOUND 3,600,T
GOTO 20

💾 On Disk: 08 WINDSTORM

When you type RUN you hear the pleasant sound of a windstorm. You can use this program to help you fall asleep in a noisy hotel room (if you want to carry your large Commodore Plus/4 setup to a hotel room) or use it as the basis for the next great 8-bit Plus/4 game.

The Plus/4 manual states that creating a sound effect like this one can be “extremely challenging” but goes on to say that experimentation is the key. Try experimenting with the three lines below:

40 - Uses the white-noise and effects channel 3 to produce sounds based on random values from line 30.
60 - Selects a random note/frequency that either increases or decreases based on the random value assigned by line 20 between 1 and 10.
90 - Modifies the random delay to give the sound a natural cadence of chaos.

You can’t break any thing. Have a blast trying values; however, remember your limitations. VOL is between 0 and 8 and the second value for SOUND is between 0 and 1023. If experiments create values outside these ranges, you will receive a !ILLEGAL QUANTITY ERROR.

MORE FUN: Let the Plus/4 create a random song by changing the channel in lines 40, 70, and 100 to 2.

Now determine how to combine the music with the windstorm to play concurrently. HINT: 1, not 2.

Making Some Music

Make music is as simple as programming your own piano on the Commodore Plus/4 as shown in the program below:

Piano Program

SCNCLR
FOR X = 1 TO 8 : READ N(X) : NEXT X
VOL 7
DO
GET A$ : IF A$ = "" THEN 40
A = ASC(A$) : IF A < 49 OR A > 56 THEN 90
N = A - 48
SOUND 1,N(N),5
COLOR 0,N,3 : COLOR 4,N,7
LOOP UNTIL A = 32
VOL 0: COLOR 4,12,7 : COLOR 0,2,7
DATA 169,262,345,383,453,516,571,596

💾 On Disk: 08 PIANO

To use the your new 8-bit piano, hit keys 1 → 8. Press the space bar to exit the program. This simple piano is limited in musical range; however, with the information provided in the previous sections, can you figure out how to enhance this piano program? Notice the fun use of color to modify the screen as you type in your song.

NOTE: This was another program in the manual that had errors. The largest error was the omission of the IF statement in the second command in line 50. I added a line that lets the program exit gracefully. Without the modification to line 100 the program can exit (pressing the space bar) and leave the screen unreadable. In addition to this change, I added a coordinating border color change to line 80.

The user’s manual provides the notes for the song, Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star as shown below:

1  5  5  6  6  5
4  3  3  2  2  1
5  4  4  3  3  2
5  4  4  3  3  2
1  5  5  6  6  5
4  3  3  2  2  1

Row Boat Program

In the example above, you play the music. In the program below, the Commodore Plus/4 will be the star of the show.

VOL 8
DO
READ X,Y
SOUND 1,X,Y
FOR D = 1 TO 550 : NEXT
LOOP UNTIL X = 0
END
DATA 169,45,169,45,169,30
DATA 262,15,345,45,345,30
DATA 262,15,345,30,383,15
DATA 453,60,596,45,453,45
DATA 345,45,169,45,453,30
DATA 383,15,345,30,262,15
DATA 169,45,0,0

💾 On Disk: 08 ROW BOAT

NOTE: Surprise! Another program that wasn’t correct. This one had an incorrect final note in line 200.

Notice as the music plays that there’s a pause that makes the whole tune awkward. Can you modify the program to sound more natural?

Bar Scales Program

A final example in this section plays a range of musical notes. Try the program below:

VOL 8
DO
D = INT(RND(0)*5)+2 : REM DURATION
S = INT(RND(0)*300)+700 : REM START
R = INT(RND(0)*(1020-S)) : REM RANGE
P = INT(RND(0)*30)+5 : REM STEP
T = SGN(RND(1)-.5) : IF T = 0 THEN 70
FOR Z = S TO S+T*R STEP P*T
SOUND 1,Z,D
Y = (Z AND 15)+1:FOR X = 1 TO D
PRINT CHR$(18); : COLOR 1,Y : ?" "
NEXT X,Z
LOOP

💾 On Disk: 08 BAR SCALES

NOTE: Yep, another error. QC on this chapter was horrible! Line 70 incorrectly added an extra parenthesis. The original line 70 read T = SGN(RND)(1)-.5). Ouch!

As the program runs, a series of random notes are played along with a random color on the left-hand side of the display. Review the program. You now have the programming skills to make this sample program more colorful and musical.

TIP: When you exit this program, who knows what color your text will be? Use COLOR 1,1 for readable text.

The Great Plus/4 Music Machine

The last BASIC program in Chapter 8, the last full chapter, of the Commodore User’s guide is the most ambitious and combines many of the concepts found in this and preceding chapters. Let’s begin typing:

Music Machine Program

GOSUB 1000
FOR X = 1 TO 9: READ N(X): NEXT X
CHAR 1,8,1, "*THE GREAT MUSIC MACHINE*"
VOL 8
DO
GETA$ :IF A$="" THEN 30
A = ASC(A$) : IF (A < 49 ) OR (A > 57) THEN 50
N = A - 48 : REM CONVERT ASCII TO ACTUAL NUMBER
SOUND 1,N(N),4
GSHAPE N$,150,8*(6+(9-N)),4
FOR Z = 1 TO 50 : NEXT Z
GSHAPE N$,150,8*(6+(9-N)),4
LOOP UNTIL A = 32
VOL 0: GRAPHIC 0: SCNCLR
END
DATA 345,383,453,516,571,596,643,685,704
GRAPHIC 1,1
FOR Y = 60 TO 124 STEP 16
DRAW 1,100,Y TO 200,Y
NEXT Y
A$ = "FEDCBAGFE"
FOR X = 1 TO 9 : C = 13
IF INT(X/2) = X/2 THEN C = 14
CHAR 1,C,X+6,MID$(A$,X,1),0
CHAR 1,C+10,X+6,RIGHT$(STR$(10-X),1)
NEXT X
FOR X = 1 TO 8 : FOR Y = 11 TO 16 : DRAW1,X,Y : NEXT Y,X
Y = 1 : X = 8: DRAW 1,8,16 TO X,Y
SSHAPE N$,1,1,8,16
GSHAPE N$,1,1,4
RETURN

💾 On Disk: 08 MUSIC MACHINE

Line 35 in the manual was a disaster! Check out the original line from the manual:

35 A ASC(A$): A < OR A> 57 THEN 50

And below is my corrected line:

35 A = ASC(A$) : IF (A < 49 ) OR (A > 57) THEN 50

The original line excluded the 49 value and necessary parenthesis. You may be asking yourself, at least I did, what are those values; 49 and 57? It took me a minute; however, the next line told the story:

36 N = A - 48

If you subtract 48 from 57, it leaves 9. 9 is one of the highest key to press on the keyboard. 57 is the PETSCII (and ASCII) code for the number 9. Makes sense, right?!? No, it does not. Let’s continue. The lowest number key you can press is 1 which has the PETSCII value of, yep, 49. Every other keypress is ignored except a PETSCII value of 32 which is the spacebar. It was line 50 and the PETSCII value of 32 that provided me with the clue to correct line 35:

50 LOOP UNTIL A = 32

This was one of the few PETSCII codes I remember from the 1980s.

This is the last program for Chapter 8. But there’s much more in the user’s manual. Stay tuned and make sure you subscribe to the channel to see what else I have in store.

Final Thoughts

That concludes all eight chapters in the Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual; however, there’s a whole lot more in the last half of the manual entitled, the Plus/4 Encyclopedia. Never fear, I plan to cover the best parts of that portion of the manual. There’s good content in the back half of the manual.
This chapter was fun to prepare and record. I’d played with the Commodore BASIC SOUND command on the Commodore 128; however, most of my experience creating sounds in BASIC was on the Commodore VIC-20 using POKE commands. Commodore BASIC 3.5 is easier!
I should give final thoughts on the user’s manual; however, we are half way through the first book and I’ll reserve judgement until we work through the encyclopedia pages.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the fun, SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

Thanks for reading and watching and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs on your favorite social media platform.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual Chapter 7 - Using Graphics and Color

2021-04-30T00:00:00+00:00

In this Commodore Plus/4 retroCombs episode and companion blog post, I cover Chapter 7, Using Graphics and Color, of the Commodore Plus/4 user’s manual. If you are eager to create images on your Commodore Plus/4, this is the chapter for you. Chapter 7 include information to PETSCII, colors, graphics modes, and other commands to create static images an animations. It’s a fun chapter and one that took quite a bit of time to prepare.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

Series Information
Companion Disk Image
User’s Manual
YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4, Chapter 7 - Using Graphics and Color
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Key to Keys
Introduction
Graphics Characters
Character Animation
Controlling Colors
- COLOR PALETTE PROGRAM
High Resolution Graphics
- GRAPHICS PROGRAM
Points, Lines, and Labels
- SINE CURVE PROGRAM
The CHAR Command
- CHARACTERS ON GRAPH PROGRAM
Squares, Circles, Polygons, and Painting
The PAINT Command
Multi-Color Graphics
- MULTI-COLOR PROGRAM
- NEON SIGN PROGRAM
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Series Information

This episode is a small part of my larger Commodore Plus/4 series. You can read the entire series and view additional resources at:

</plus4>

Companion Disk Image

As I progress through the user’s manual, I enter and execute sample programs. The link below is to a .d81 image that contains every program from each episode. Like the series, the image is not complete.

retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image - UPDATED AS OF: 2021-02-13

I use the following file name convention to make it easy to locate specific programs:

Sample Program Name: 02 RCOMBS SCROLL.PRG

02 - The chapter number
RCOMBS SCROLL - my self assigned name for the BASIC program which will be immediately identifiable if you follow along.

User’s Manual

Chapter 7 - Using Graphics and Color

Below are the links for previous chapters covered:

YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4, Chapter 7 - Using Graphics and Color

In the video below, I work through Chapter 6 of the user’s manual.

Video Errata

None as of 2021-02-18.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual Series

Key to Keys

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations as shown in the table below:

Key	Description	Key	Description
`⇪`	Caps Lock	`F1`	Function 1
`[C=]`	Commodore	`F2`	Function 2
`⌃`	Control	`F3`	Function 3
`⎋`	Escape	`F4`	Function 4
`⌂`	Clear/Home	`F5`	Function 5
`⌫`	Insert Delete	`F6`	Function 6
`⏎`	Return	`F7`	Function 7
`[R/S]`	Run/Stop	`F8`	Help
`⇧`	Shift	`␣`	Space
`↑`	Cursor Up	`↓`	Cursor Down
`→`	Cursor Right	`←`	Cursor Left

Introduction

Thank you to all my viewers and the feedback.
.d81 disk image is available here.
Don’t forget to subscribe to the channel!
Hope you’ve been keeping up with my retro-computing content like my latest project, the Combian pi/400. I love this Combian 64 and Raspberry Pi 400 mash-up. Other than my Dev Kit, It’s my new favorite modern emulation system. I plan to do more with it in the near future.

Graphics Characters

You will notice on the Plus/4 keyboard that not only does the keyboard allow for lower and upper case characters, but there’s a whole host of graphic characters available on each letter key, @, -, and *.

In upper-case mode, press and hold the ⇧ (right character) or C= (left character) key, followed by one of the keys listed above to place graphics characters on the screen. The characters are know as PETSCII (similar to ASCII on later computers) and each one can be displayed using the PRINT CHR$() command if you know the right address.

PETSCII (PET Standard Code of Information Interchange), known as CBM ASCII, is the character set used in Commodore Business Machines (CBM)’s 8-bit home computers, starting with the PET from 1977 and including the C16, C64, C116, C128[1], CBM-II, Plus/4, and VIC-20. - Wikipedia.

The character set expands when both shifted and unshifted modes are used. You can view a chart with PETSCII codes at https://sta.c64.org/cbm64pet.html.

The majority of PETSCII codes have been absorbed into ASCII; however, they can be difficult to find on modern keyboards. This makes a Commodore 8-bit computer much more adept at creating BASIC programs with animated characters.

I wrote a BASIC program that will display PETSCII characters on the screen. DLOAD or type the program and then RUN the program. The screen will clear and the PETSCII characters will fill the top of the screen. and then tap the ⇧ + C= keys to cycle between upper and lower-case modes as shown in the images below the code. Right-side graphics characters are available in both upper and lower-case modes. Left-side characters include lines and angles used to draw tables and charts.

SCNCLR
FOR T = 33 TO 127 : PRINT CHR$(T); : NEXT T
FOR T = 160 TO 255 : PRINT CHR$(T); : NEXT T

💾 On Disk: 07 PETSCII

Community Addition

As my reader/viewership grows, so do the suggestions. I’m adding a new feature to the companion blog posts, community additions.

Frequent contributor to the comments and YouTube watcher, Jeffrey Phipps created a program to produce a formatted screen that displays upper and lower-case a-z (when in lowercase mode) PETSCII characters next to the CHR$ code. It’s a great addition.

SCNCLR
REM ** COUNT FOR THE FIRST 13 LETTERS
FOR X = 65 TO 77
C1 = X : REM COLUMN 1 - LOWER A-M
C2 = X + 13 : REM COLUMN 2 - LOWER N-Z
C3 = X + ASC(" ") : REM COLUMN 3 - UPPER A-M
C4 = X + 13 + ASC(" "):REM COLUMN 4 - UPPER N-Z
REM ** PRINT FOUR COLUMNS
PRINT C1;"-> ";CHR$(C1);
PRINT C2;"-> ";CHR$(C2);
PRINT C3;"-> ";CHR$(C3);
PRINT C4;"-> ";CHR$(C4)
NEXT X

💾 On Disk: 07 A to Z

Use combinations of the PETSCII characters to create lines, shapes, environments, characters, and even animations as we will cover next.

NOTE: When you “draw” images on the screen using PETSCII, holding down the ⇧ or ⇧-Lock while drawing and then following each line with ⏎ will not yield a syntax error. This is a great tip for prototyping screen designs.

Character Animation

You can use BASIC and PETSCII to create both images and animations. The three programs below create animations using traditional animation cels; one-by-one using the PRINT command.

PULSE BALL PROGRAM

Need a visual for an alarm, this program will perfectly and you can modify the speed of the pulse by changing the value of L.

? "⌂●"
FOR L = 1 TO 100 " : REM CHANGE VALUE TO MODIFY SPEED
NEXT L
? "⌂○"
FOR L = 1 TO 100 : REM SHOULD = L IN LINE 20
NEXT L
GOTO 10

💾 On Disk: 07 PULSE BALL

JUMPING JACK PROGRAM

It’s exercise time! This program will help you get your daily number of jumping jacks logged and you can make them as fast as you want!

SCNCLR
? "⌂╲○╱"
? " ▒ "
? "╱ ╲"
FOR L = 1 TO 100 : NEXT L
? "⌂ ○ "
? "▔▒▔"
? " ││"
FOR L = 1 TO 100 : NEXT L
GOTO 10

💾 On Disk: 07 JUMPING JACK

INCH WORM PROGRAM

The two examples above place animations on the screen that stay in the same location. In this program, our worm will inch its way along the top two lines of the screen and then stop.

FOR A = 0 TO 30 : REM CHANGE A BUT NOT > 36
SCNCLR
? TAB(A)"╭╮╭╮"
? TAB(A)"╯╰╯╰"
FOR L = 1 TO 100 : NEXT L
SCNCLR
? TAB(A)"╮╭╮╭"
? TAB(A)"╰╯╰╯"
FOR L = 1 TO 100 : NEXT L
NEXT A

💾 On Disk: 07 INCH WORM

MOVE BALL PROGRAM

We can make a simple animation by drawing an object, then erasing it, and then redrawing in the next adjacent space as shown in the code below. BASIC will draw a ●, then move back one space. The next line will overwrite the previous ● with a ␣ and then draw another ● to the right of the previous. It’s a simple animation that moves the ball from the top-left of the screen, line-by-line, until it reaches the bottom lower-right. Can you predict what happens next?

SCNCLR
? " ●←";
FOR L = 1 TO 50 : NEXT L
GOTO 20

💾 On Disk: 07 MOVE ●

Controlling Colors

In our previous examples, all the characters have been black. We touched on changing colors back in Chapter 4. In this section we will spend more time learning how to modify not only individual character colors, but screen and border colors. Give is try with the examples below:

COLOR 4,3 will change the border color to red, kinda. More on this later. 4 is the item to color change, in this case the border, and 3 is the color.

COLOR 0,7 will change the background color to blue. 0 specifies a border color change with 7 once again representing the color.

COLOR 4,3,0 uses a third color value that sets color luminescence. Use this value to modify the “kinda” red and blue colors. Now the border will be “really” red.

The table below displays all COLOR command variables:

Area	Color	Lum
0 Background	1 Black	0 Darkest
1 Character	2 White	1
2 Multi-color 1	3 Red	2
3 Multi-color 2	5 Purple	3
4 Border	6 Green	4
	7 Blue	5
	8 Yellow	6
	9 Orange	7 Brightest
	10 Brown
	11 Yellow Green
	12 Pink
	13 Blue Green
	14 Light Blue
	15 Dark Blue
	16 Light Green

NOTE: The Plus/4 can output 121 colors. Multi-color modes will be discussed in the Multi-Color Graphics section.

COLOR PALETTE PROGRAM

The program below will display all Commodore Plus/4 colors as shown in the image below:

There was an error in the user’s manual code that I corrected. See REM statements within code for details.

SCNCLR
COLOR 0, 7, 7
FOR M = 0 TO 7
FOR N = 1 TO 2
FOR L = 1 TO 15 : REM CHANGE FROM 16 IN MANUAL
? "[RVS ON]"; REM ⌃ + 9 FOR [RVS ON]
READ A
COLOR 1, A, M
? "  ";
NEXT L
?
RESTORE : REM MOVES DATA POINTER BACK TO START OF DATA LIST
NEXT N, M
COLOR 1, 2, 4
DATA 7, 14, 4, 13, 6, 16, 11, 8, 10, 9, 3, 12, 5, 15, 2, 1

💾 On Disk: 07 COLOR PALETTE

NOTE: I failed to talk about the RESTORE command in the video. The RESTORE command in line 110 is used along with the DATA command in line 200. As the program moves through the list of data, the RESTORE command will reset the point back to the very first data value, which is 7 in this example.

High Resolution Graphics

The Plus/4 screen contains 25 rows of 40 characters each for a total of 1000 character positions (25 x 40 = 1000). Each character is described by a grid of 8 x 8 pixels, or 64 pixels. Therefore, the full-screen resolution of a Plus/4 screen is 320, 200 and 64,000 pixels. So far, we’ve controlled each 8 x 8 grid only. In this section we will break that grid into the large screen and control all pixels individual to access “high resolutions graphics mode.”

While you may be thinking “cool, now I can use a single color for each pixel”, here’s the caveat. The Plus/4 will only allow access to two colors in each 8 x 8 character.

Remember the multi-color option in the COLOR command? You can use this to activate high resolution graphics mode to provide four colors per character. More information in Multi-Color Graphics section.

GRAPHICS PROGRAM

This BASIC program will create a series of intersecting lines using the GRAPHIC and DRAW commands to activate the high resolution areas of the screen as shown in the image below:

COLOR 0, 1
GRAPHIC 1, 1
FOR L = 2 TO 16
COLOR 1, L, 2
DRAW 1, 0, L * 12 TO 318, L * 12
DRAW 1, L * 18, 0 TO L * 18, 199
NEXT L
FOR L = 1 TO 5000 : NEXT
COLOR 1, 2, 3
GRAPHIC 0

💾 On Disk: 07 GRAPHICS

Notice that the color of lines change as they intersect other lines due to the fact that each character can only contain two colors and the black background takes one of those colors.

If you want to experiment with graphic commands in immediate mode, type GRAPHIC 2, 1 followed by ⏎. The screen will go blank and the READY. prompt will appear at the fourth line from the bottom of the screen as shown in the image below.

In this mode, you have the bottom five lines for commands and the top of the screen for high-res display. GRAPHIC 1, 1 will put the entire screen in high-res mode; however, you will type blindly.

You can switch between modes using GRAPHIC 0 (text) and GRAPHIC 2 (high-res). Switching does not remove what was on the previous screen unless you include ,1 at the end of the command. Below is a table that lists the various GRAPHIC command options:

Effect	Clear
0 Text	0 Don’t Clear
1 High-res	1 Clear
2 High-res + text
3 Multi-color
4 Multi-color + text

TIP: The SCNCLR command will clear the high-res mode.

Points, Lines, and Labels

Now the fun begins. Let’s use BASIC commands to draw shapes in high-res mode. Type GRAPHIC2,1:DRAW1,0,0 and hit ⏎. Look very closely at the top left corner of the screen. You just drew your first pixel (dot) on the Plus/4. Every line begins at the beginning.

Let’s try another one. Type DRAW1,1,1 TO 100,100 and hit ⏎. A line is drawn that connects to our dot (at coordinates X=0 and Y=0) beginning at X=1 and Y=1 to the end of the line at X=100 and Y=100. In theory (math that is) this should be a 45° line; however, because of the 8 x 8 character matrix, it’s distorted.

REMEMBER Unlike an axis in algebra or geometry, coordinates 0,0 is the upper left-hand corner, not the lower-left hand corner and positive values down and to the right.

Want to draw a line that continues from the previous? No need to remember or type the ending coordinates. Type DRAW 1 to 150,50 and hit ⏎. A new line, using absolute coordinates, will be drawn headed toward the upper right-hand corner as shown in the image below:

Want to complete the triangle? Type DRAW 1 TO 0,0 and hit ⏎. We will learn how we can fill in that area in the Squares, Circles, Polygons, and Painting section below.pa

Let’s break down the DRAW command syntax:

DRAW color, column, row TO column, row

Omitted everything from TO on , will draw a single dot.

There are two options for color. 0 equals the background color. 1 equals the foreground color established using the last know value or by the COLOR command.

Time for a longer example.

SINE CURVE PROGRAM

Let’s use our new found graphics commands, combined with some math (or “maths” for my European friends), to create a high-res representation of the sine function; the sine curve (or wave) as shown in the image below:

COLOR 0, 1
COLOR 1, 2
GRAPHIC 1, 1
LOCATE 0,100
FOR X = 1 TO 319
Y = INT(100+99*SIN(X/20))
DRAW 1 TO X, Y
NEXT X
FOR L = 1 TO 5000 : REM PAUSES SCREEN
NEXT L
GRAPHIC 0

💾 On Disk: 07 SINE WAVE

NOTE: This is the first indication of how slow 8-bit computers were when running BASIC programs. Modern computers will spit out the results of programs like this one almost immediately after hitting the ⏎ key.

Without clearing the screen and immediately after running the program, replace line 70 by typing:

70 DRAW 1, X, Y

Enter RUN and the program will create the curve using points instead of lines as shown below:

I like this version better, so keep the program in memory before continuing to the next section.

The `CHAR` Command

A graph alone can speak volumes; however, some graphs require characters to tell the entire story. Luckily, the Plus/4 can overlay characters on top of our graphs in high-res or multi-color graphics modes.

CHARACTERS ON GRAPH PROGRAM

Using the program from the previous section, add the following lines to add characters to our graph:

CHAR 1,0,0,"GRAPH OF" : CHAR 1,0,1,"FORMULA"
CHAR 1,0,2,"Y=SIN(X)"
DRAW 1,0,100 TO 319,100,189,0 TO 189,199
CHAR 1,0,12, "X-AXIS" : CHAR 1,22,0,"Y"
CHAR 1,22,2,"A" : CHAR 1,22,3,"X"
CHAR 1,22,4,"T" : CHAR 1,22,5,"S"

The result is a graphic with character labels as shown in the image below:

Squares, Circles, Polygons, and Painting

Not only does Commodore BASIC 3.5 provide commands to draw single pixels and lines, it also provides the BOX, CIRCLE, and PAINT commands. These commands expedite the creation of on-screen graphics.

Drawing Rectangles

Use the BOX command to create rectangles using two coordinates that describe the opposite corners of the box.

SQUARE PROGRAM

Below is a sample BOX command and an image of the results:

10 GRAPHIC 2,1
20 BOX 1,0,0,100,100

💾 On Disk: 07 SQUARE

Line 10 switches to high-res graphics mode with a command text below, 2, and clears the screen, 1.

The first value in line 20, 1, is the value to draw, rather than erase which is 0. The next two coordinates, 0,0, are the upper-left coordinates (can be anywhere on the screen) and the next two numbers,100,100, are the lower-left coordinates. Since both numbers are 100, this command will draw a square. Values of 150,100 will draw a rectangle as shown below:

ROTATE SQUARE PROGRAM

Let’s add a new line 20 and copy line 20 to line 30 while adding an additional attribute to the `BOX command; a rotation.

GRAPHIC 2,1
DRAW 1,50,50 : REM ROTATION POINT
BOX 1,0,0,100,100,45

💾 On Disk: 07 ROTATE SQUARE

Line 20 draws the center of our rotation point. The value 45 will rotate the box 45° clockwise at the center point of the polygon drawn as a single point on the screen. The results are shown below:

FILL RECTANG PROGRAM

Much code and “ciphering” is necessary if you want to fill polygons using the DRAW command. Luckily, another attribute for the BOX command provides the ability to fill polygons as shown in the code and image below:

10 GRAPHIC 2,1
20 BOX 1,0,0,100,100,,1

💾 On Disk: 07 FILL RECTANG

NOTE: Line 30 omits a rotation attribute and the 1 instructs the command to fill the polygon.

Let’s use the commands we’ve learned in more complete programs.

SPIROGRAPH^® PROGRAM

This first program that draws multiple boxes from the same center point at random rotations. The result is a computerized and old school Spirograph.

COLOR 0,1
COLOR 1,2
GRAPHIC 2,1
A = RND(1) * 20 + 10
FOR L = 0 TO 359 STEP A
BOX 1,100,30,220,130,L
NEXT L
FOR L = 1 TO 2000 : NEXT L
GRAPHIC 0,1

💾 On Disk: 07 SPIROGRAPH

MODERN ART PROGRAM

Time to create modern art; a bunch of colorful rectangles drawn on the screen over and over. Yes, some people consider this art. Type in or load the program below:

TRAP 60 : REM RESETS SCREEN ON ERROR
GRAPHIC 2,1
DEF FNA(X) = INT(RND(1)*X)
COLOR 1, FNA(15)+1
BOX 1,FNA(320),FNA(160),FNA(320),FNA(160),,1
GOTO 30
COLOR 1,2,3 : GRAPHIC 0

💾 On Disk: 07 MODERN ART

As this codes runs, notice as the rectangles begin to overlap each other, the color of the previous rectangle is affected and overwritten several pixels in front of the new area drawn. This is a limitation of the graphic mode used. It only supports two colors per 8 x 8 area. In the Drawing Circles section, we’ll use multi-color mode to overcome this limitation.

NOTE: We have a new BASIC command in line 10. TRAP intercepts errors in programming conditions. It then writes the line number where the error occurred to variable EL (error line). A programmer can redirect their programming code to a specific line after the error. Think of it as a GOTO for errors. In this example, the TRAP command creatively exits graphics mode. When the user hits the R/S key, an error is produced. Without the TRAP command, the program would simply stop and freeze on the graphics screen. The user then types a GRAPHIC command blindly to get back to a text screen. Instead, the program exits the graphics screen gracefully to a text screen with a soft color palette to a R/S key press has occurred.

Drawing Circles

Let’s use the CIRCLE command to draw two circles as shown in the image below.

GRAPHICS 2,1
CIRCLE 1,50,50,25,25
CIRCLE 1,150,50,25,20

The program above includes two CIRCLE commands in lines 20 and 30. Line 20 draws (1) a circle starting at a center point (50,50) out to a radius of defined by two coordinates (25,25); however, if you look at the output on my NTSC screen, while the math describes a perfect circle, the Plus/4 displays an ellipse. That’s because pixels on an NTSC Plus/4, are not square but rectangular as shown in the image below:

The second line accounts for this to give a more visually accurate rendering of a circle.

My fellow Commodore Plus/4 users over the pond using PAL monitors will not see this distortion, as shown below:

SHAPES PROGRAM

The CIRCLE command can draw shapes in addition to circles as the code below demonstrates. Line 35 is not included in the user’s manual code. This line erases the previous shape before a new one is drawn. I found this preferred over the manual’s drawing shapes over the top of each other.

GRAPHIC 2,1
INPUT "HOW MANY SIDES";A
IF A < 2 OR A > 100 THEN ? "DON'T BE RIDICULOUS" : GOTO 20
SCNCLR : REM MY ADDITION
CIRCLE 1,160,80,40,33,,,,360/A
GOTO 20

💾 On Disk: 07 SHAPES

An earlier program simulated a Spirograph. Let’s swap out the Spirograph ring insert and create another shape.

COLOR 0,1
COLOR 1,2
GRAPHIC 1,1
A = RND(1) * 20 + 10
FOR L = 0 TO 359 STEP A
CIRCLE 1, 160, 100, 80, 40,,,L
NEXT L
FOR L = 1 TO 2000 : NEXT L
GRAPHIC 0,1

💾 On Disk: 07 SPIROGRAPH 2

The program below will draw four circles. It’s a simple program that uses math and some variables to space the circles out.

COLOR 0,1
COLOR 1,2
GRAPHIC 2,1
FOR L = 1 TO 4 : REM CHANGE `4` to `5`
Y = 50
IF L = 2 OR L = 4 THEN Y = 100
X = L * 35 + 50
CIRCLE 1,X,Y,50,42
NEXT L
? "PLUS/4 CIRCLES"

💾 On Disk: 07 CIRCLES

The `PAINT` Command

Let’s fill in portions of the overlapping circles. Add the lines below to the previous program.

FOR L = 0 TO 2
PAINT 1,120 + 35 * L,75
NEXT L

💾 On Disk: 07 VENN

While not a true Venn diagram, we could use the code to create the circles and area fills that become the makings of a BASIC Venn diagram program.

NOTE: In the video, I demonstrate what I believe was the original intent of the previous two programs, the creation of the Olympic symbol. I add the fifth circle and when complete, both examples make more sense as shown in the image below:

Multi-Color Graphics

The two programs below demonstrate the Plus/4’s multi-color graphics mode.

MULTI-COLOR PROGRAM

COLOR 0,1
GRAPHIC 4,1
FOR L = 1 TO 5
Q = L : IF Q > 3 THEN Q = Q - 3
COLOR Q,L+1,0 : REM ADDED LUM VALUE
Y = 50
IF L = 2 OR L = 4 THEN Y = 100
X = L * 18 + 25
CIRCLE Q,X,Y,25,42
NEXT L
COLOR 1,2 : REM ADDED FOR LEGIBILITY

💾 On Disk: 07 MULTI-COLOR

NOTE: Like the previous two programs, the modification of this program to draw five circles is a better example. Can you figure out how to modify the program to include the fifth circle?

NEON SIGN PROGRAM

The last program in this chapter create an 8-bit simulation of a flashing neon sign. What’s the message you ask? You’ll have to type in the code to find out, or better yet, review the code and try to anticipate the message.

COLOR 0,1
GRAPHIC 3,1
COLOR 3,1
TRAP 200
DRAW 3,10,10 TO 10,100 : DRAW 3,10,55 TO 30,55
DRAW 3,30,10 TO 30,100 : DRAW 3,50,10 TO 80,10
DRAW 3,65,10 TO 65,100 : DRAW 3,50,100 TO 80,100
FOR L = 0 TO 7
COLOR 3,2,L : REM CHANGE 2 TO 9 (ORANGE) FOR MORE FUN
FOR M = 1 TO 100 : NEXT M
NEXT L
COLOR 3,1
FOR M = 1 TO 100 : NEXT M
GOTO 80
GRAPHIC 0 : COLOR 1,2,7

💾 On Disk: 07 NEON SIGN

I don’t include an image for this one because I don’t want to spoil the 8-bit neon light simulating surprise. In the companion video I also share how to make the neon sign seem more, “neony!”

Final Thoughts

This chapter was a blast; however, it did take a long time to prepare this post and the video.

In the next chapter, we will use the Plus/4 to play sounds and music. Add these concepts to this chapter and we are on our way to creating games and audio/visual demos in Commodore BASIC 3.5.

You won’t want to miss that fun. Make sure you SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Join the Fun

Help make this series better! Post feedback, questions, and ideas. Let me know if you are following along. Let’s make this a community project. For now, Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

Thanks for watching and if you are inclined, please let other Commodore fans know about the series, my blog, and the YouTube channel, by sharing these videos using #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

COBI M113 Armored Personnel Carrier (APC) Build

2021-04-24T00:00:00+00:00

In a previous blog post, I share my build of the COBI M60 Patton Main Battle Tank and compare my first experience with COBI to my lifetime experience with LEGO. There’s a lot of history in that post and companion video. I’d recommend you go take a read and watch and then return to this post.

I mention a few times during the M60 video my purchase of the COBI M113 Armored Personnel Carrier. I wasn’t sure if I would share my build of the M113, but a few readers and watchers did make a request, so here ya go! Keep those requests coming.

YouTube Video: COBI M113 Armored Personnel Carrier (APC) | All Build • No Narrative

In the video below, I share my COBI M113 Armored Personnel Carrier (APC) build.

☕ If you find this blog post and/or video valuable, please consider buying me a coffee? The caffeine will keep the blog posts and videos coming your way!

Video Errata

None as of 2021-04-24.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Build Thoughts

Below are additional thoughts about this build that expand on the content in the companion video:

Instructions were clear and there weren’t any “gotcha” steps. Be careful, because this set includes numerous small elements.
My set includes several additional parts; three center post hooks, one chain link, and two track pieces. The track pieces did not appear to be in error since they come in packs of 45 and match the bill of materials. The chain link is included because they are easy to lose and break. I store these in the fuel barrel. The three center post hooks were not included in the bill of materials. I assume these were an error since they are rugged and not easily lost.
Another error was the inclusion of a 1 x 2 plate with a single center stud instead of a normal 1 x 2 with two studs. Once again, I checked the bill of materials and found this was an error; however, there was good news. The male mating part accommodates either 1 x 2 element. Whew!
As with the M60, there are several elements in this set that I’ve never seen in LEGO models. I like that COBI creates “non LEGO” elements to build out their sets.
Sprue cutoff blemishes expectantly found in this set, like they were on the M60. I tried to turn elements around so they wouldn’t show on the exterior of the model; however, I missed many of them as I started this practice late in the build. Note to self. Start this sooner on the next model. Live and learn!
The headlights include “glow in the dark” elements. They do glow. I’ll give them that. But not for long.
An M113 is operated by 2 crew members and can hold about 11 soldiers. While I didn’t expect COBI to include 11 infantry soldiers, one more crew member would make a nice addition.
This model pairs nicely with the M60 Patton as I demonstrate in many of my images found in the photo gallery below and at the beginning of the video.
There’s one more model I need to round out my United States Army armor experiences, the M1 Abrams Main Battle Tank. Based on my experience with the M60 and M113, I have no hesitation buying this model. If you’d like to see that build, leave a comment below or under the YouTube companion video.

Recommendation

This was another fun build from COBI’s historical collection. As I mention in my previous COBI post, I’m a retired armor officer and have experience with the armored vehicles these models recreate. Like the M60 Patton, this model is as accurate as possible given the limitations of building bricks. Details on this model are excellent and include a wood beam, chains, fuel canister, sand bag, barrel, spare track, glowing headlights, pad printed graphics, .50 caliber M2 machine gun, and an included sapper (combat engineer) action figure with M16.

At a cost of ≈ $44, this model is a great value. Be prepared for small pieces that add to the level of detail not found in many building brick models. They can be a challenge; which I like, and be careful not to lose any of them. I took me about three hours to put the model together. I wasn’t in any hurry and took several breaks. All-in-all, I recommend this model for armor and building block fans.

Buy the COBI M113 Amored Personnel Carrier at Amazon

Photo Gallery

The companion video uses many images. You can review each of them individually in the album below:

Join the Fun

You won’t want to miss that fun, so make sure you SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

Thanks for reading and watching and if you are so inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Transfer BASIC Programs in Print to Physical Commodore Computers

2021-04-16T00:00:00+00:00

While spending time in the MEGA65 Discord group, I found a link to Weihnachten auf dem Commodore (WADC), or Christmas on the Commodore. There have been editions printed since 2018 and I ordered all three available editions. Inside pages are filled with type in BASIC programs for all manner of Commodore 8-bit computers. Below is an excerpt form the C64 Wiki page about these annual publications.

The idea behind the creation of the booklet is based on the fact that for some users of the C64 there is a certain connection with Christmas, as many originally got it for Christmas at that time or the Christmas season symbolizes a contemplative, quiet time in that you can take out your home computer to do the typing of BASIC programs like in the old days…Although the listings are intended for the C64, the magazine is not limited to this computer. Listings for other Commodore home computers such as the C128 or Plus/4 can be found in it. To enable the most error-free typing possible, the booklet contains the checksum tool F64Summer, which was developed by Zirias in the course of the first edition.

You can order your copies of all three volumes here. For 3.00 EUR (or ≈ $3.50 USD) per issue, purchase all three. Shipping to the United States is 3.60 EUR and if you order all three, no additional shipping is applied. It’s a steal. You do need to be aware that the magazines come in the German language. There is not an English version; however, for someone who had four years of German I in high school, I am able to decipher much of it and in those cases where I can’t figure it out, I turn to Google Translate. It’s a wonderfully technological world we live in.

In my prime, back in the 1980s, I would have poured through these magazines and typed in every program and then watch them run in all their 8-bit glory. I’d save them to a cassette tape. It was many years, and a Commodore 128, later before I could afford a disk drive. Back in the day, I had free time to do this; however, times they do a change. While I will type in one or two of the programs in these magazines, I don’t have time to type them all.

What’s a Commodore retro-computing fan to do? Use what he learned while producing the Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual series and share how to convert these BASIC programs from print to physical Commodore computers.

YouTube Video: Transfer BASIC programs in print to a Commodore computer
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Conversion Time
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

YouTube Video: Transfer BASIC programs in print to physical Commodore computers

Before you read my process below, look at the FAST LOAD video below that shows my technique.

Video Errata

[2021-04-16] In the first section of my typing example, my original video had the Commodore screen superimposed in the upper-right hand corner; however, that screen capture became corrupt; leaving a huge gap in my video composition. It was disappointing; however, I decided to not recreate this portion of the video because this project had already been in the hopper for a week.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual Series
Weihnachten auf dem Commodore
Adobe Scan App | For Android and iOS
iaWriter | For Mac, iOS, and Android
Atom | For Mac, Linux, and Windows
VICE | For Mac, Linux, and Windows
Pi1541 Zero Project
THEVIC20
THEC64
microSD cards
IEC cable

Conversion Time

Don’t misunderstand, there’s educational opportunity to be had from typing in Commodore BASIC programs. You learn command syntax, keyboard layout, program structure, and an entire realm of programming concepts when you take the time to enter each line. But, man! It can eat at your free time, even with the thoughtful bookmark and space ruler that each issue of WADC includes.

And in the case of the Checksum program (a program designed to verify you’ve typed each line correctly), there’s little value since the program is a series of pokes to create a machine language program. Normal humans can’t process these programs.

Scan Page(s)

The first step of the process is to use a tool that includes optical character recognition (OCR) to scan the BASIC program. My preference is the free Adobe Scan for my Pixel 4XL. There are other mobile device scan apps, paid and free, that do the same thing. I prefer an app over a dedicated scanner. My workflow is faster. Here are my steps below:

Open the Adobe Scan app on a mobile device.
Locate the printed program to scan. In our case, in a WADC issue.
Use the app to take a picture of the entire page of code. If the code spans multiple pages, add a page to the current scan instead of starting a new scan. This will reduce several steps later. If the printed program includes a checksum number, like WADC programs, do not include those numbers in the scan. Those are valuable when you type in the code, but will cause more edits with this process.
After scanning is complete, Adobe Scan will provide options to crop the image and make other minor adjustments. This is a good time to crop out an extraneous characters that are not a part of the BASIC program.
After making adjustments, save the pictures as a PDF. Adobe Scan will immediately OCR the images.
Adobe Scan will save the PDF to its own library; however, use the share feature of your phone to send it to your desktop computer. There are many ways to accomplish this and I share the file to a folder on my Pixel phone’s Google Drive that syncs with my Mac. By the time I share and place the phone on my desk, the file is available on my Mac.

You now have a PDF with the entire BASIC program on your desktop or laptop.

Edit in a Text Editor

Our next step is to transfer the contents of the OCR file to a text editor in these easy steps:

Open the PDF file. I use a Mac and open it using the Preview application.
Highlight and copy the entire text contents of the PDF file.
Open a text editor of your choosing (more below).
Paste the contents of your clipboard into a new text document.
Save the file with an appropriate name as a .txt file.
Review the text file program any errors from the Adobe OCR conversion. There will be a few. If you’ve not watched my video, I share a couple of quick clean up tips.
If you scanned a printed program and it is all capitalized, use your text editor to change it all to lower-case. If you copy an all-caps program into VICE, the characters will be converted to non-functional code uppercase PETSCII characters.
If your text editor doesn’t autosave, get a new one, or make sure and save your file often.

Text Editors: In my video, I use iaWriter. It’s not meant for coding, but for writing; however, it has all the tools I need to get this job done. For more sophisticated text editing including regex, advanced fine and replace, multiple cursors, syntax highlighting, and packages, I use Atom. There’s a learning curve, but it is worth the time. Atom is the tool I use to manage my blog on GitHub pages. It is a free application for Mac, Linux, and Windows. Other great options include Sublime Text and Visual Studio Code. Alternatively, every computer OS includes a rudimentary text editor that you can use for this conversion.

Once you’ve made edits and have a good copy of the the printed program, you are ready to move it over to the VICE emulator.

Copy and Paste

We will use The Versatile Commodore Emulator (VICE) to load, edit, and execute the code. The application creates .d81 disk images that we will use to transfer programs from VICE to a physical computer. Follow these steps:

Open VICE on your Mac, Linux, or Windows computer. A prompt will appear with a selection of computers to emulate. Select the correct emulator for the program you scanned.
Copy the entire program from the text editor.
In VICE, choose Edit | Paste.
Type run and cross your fingers. If the program works, continue to step 6.
If the program has errors, you can make the changes in VICE or you can return to the text editor. If you make changes in the text editor, use the new command in vice to clear memory and paste in the new code. Repeat this step until the program executes properly.
Save the .txt file in the text editor. Having this backup will come in handy and these files are super small.
If you have a disk image mounted to VICE, save the file to the disk image and skip to step 10.
VICE can create disk images. Choose the File | Create and attach an empty disk image… option. The Create and attach a new disk image dialog box will appear as shown below:
Use the dialog box to create a .d81 file as shown in sample above.

With a working program saved to a Commodore disk image, you are ready to transfer the program to your physical computer.

Transfer and Execute the program on physical hardware

The imagee transfer process depends on the device you choose to mount your disk image. I won’t share each in detail but here’s a quick summary for transfer using a Pi1541 on original Commodore hardware and using a THEC64/VIC20.

Commodore Hardware and Pi1541

Copy the .d81 disk image to a properly formatted microSD card on a Mac, Linux, or Windows computer. Consider creating a folder on the microSD to make file management easier on the Pi1541.
Eject the microSD card.
Insert the microSD card into the Pi1541.
Connect the Pi1541 to a Commodore computer using an IEC cable.
Connect the Pi1541 to power using a micro USB cable and a proper USB power supply.
Turn on the Commodore computer. The Pi1541 will boot up.
Use the Pi1541 buttons to navigate to the disk image and select.
Use the load"name",8,1 or dload"name" (depending on the version of Commodore BASIC) command load the file.
Use the run command to execute the program.

You can now load and save programs to disk images on the Pi1541.

TIP: As highlighted in the video, I made a mistake and didn’t use the proper syntax when writing over a file in Commodore 64 mode. To overwrite an existing file on the disk image use this syntax: save "@0:name",8

THEC64/VIC20

Copy the .d81 disk image to a properly formatted USB drive on a Mac, Linux, or Windows computer.
Eject the USB drive.
Plug the USB drive into a USB port on THEC64.
Turn on the THEC64.
Press the lower-right red button on the joystick. The menu below will appear:
Use the joystick to highlight Media access and press the fire button. The Media Access page appear as shown below:
Use the joystick to locate the disk image file. Press the fire button to attach the disk image. The image name will appear in the Disk Drive option at the bottom of the page.
Press the lower-right red button on the joystick to return the Commodore computer screen. The image is now available.
Use the load"name",8 command load the file.
Use the run command to execute the program.

You can now load and save programs to disk images on the USB drive.

Final Thoughts

I’m aware that this is one way to perform this task; however, these steps have worked for me and because I’ve done this many times, I can scan a program and convert it in short-order.
While this process may not seem to save time initially, as you get more familiar with the tools, you can fly through pages of code.
This technique, and the Adobe Scan software, can be used for all forms of scans where you need an OCR conversion to grab the text.
Be sure to see what else the Adobe Scan software can do for you. I’m amazed that this app is free given Adobe’s penchant for subscription fees.
Don’t want to use Adobe products? There are other open source, free, and paid options out there. Even Google Keep will grab text from an image. Free OCR services are more available now than ever before.
Weihnachten auf dem Commodore (WADC) is so much fun. Seriously, spend the money and grab all volumes now before they run out. Not only am I having a blast with the type-in programs, I’m also brushing up on my German at the same time. I’ll be typing/scanning many of the other programs and saving them to my .d81 disk image. I’m in no rush and have three volumes.

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Help make this content better! Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

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Wyze Watch Open the Box, First Use, and Wyze Band Comparison

2021-03-28T00:00:00+00:00

I think I have a smartwatch and fitness tracker problem. I’ve worn a WearOS watch for the past three years. It’s been and up and down relationship. Battery life on WearOS devices are horrible and a daily charge is required. I’ve owned a pocket FitBit so supplement the times when I forgot to charge my WearOS, but it’s days were numbered years ago.

I love my current WearOS device, the TicWatch C2+; however, it too requires a daily charge. A daily charge means I don’t wear it to bed and track my sleep and admittedly, I’m not sure I want to wear it to bed or even on a run. That’s “wear” the $24 Wyze Band comes into play.

I wear my TicWatch with work clothes and then throw on my Wyze Band for afternoon runs and sleeping. The Wyze Band only needs charging once per week. While I like the Wyze Band, it is limited in function. Then came along the Wyze Watch; A $20 device. Let me get this straight. The Wyze Watch is cheaper than the Wyze Band and has more features? Can it replace the Wyze Band? Let’s find out.

YouTube Video: Will the Wyze Watch replace my Wyze Band? Let’s open the box and find out.

In the video below, I open the box, setup, and use the Wyze Watch for the first time. Watch the video below and then read my final thoughts below.

Video Errata

None as of 2021-03-28.

Final Thoughts

The Wyze Watch comes in two sizes, 47 and 44 mm. The 47 was the first out of the chute for Wyze and the smaller 44 is on its way.
Unfortunately, the Wyze Watch is currently sold out.
A variety of color bands are available; $15.00 for leather and $6.00 for silicon.
I don’t see longevity for the Wyze Band. I’ve not seen a firmware updates in months and why anyone would select that more expensive device over this much improved fitness tracker is beyond me.
At this price point, I see Wyze selling a whole bunch of these watches. You might think the watch would be great for kids (you would be correct); however, they are great for folks who want a simple, modern, and connected watch without having to over think the things.
I thought I would miss the ability to reply to text messages; however, on my TicWatch, while it is possible, I rarely use it. Occasionally I’ll fire up the Google Assistant and voice in a response, but the keyboard is painful.
Have I mentioned the battery life? It is awesome. After four days of 24/7 wear, the battery sits at 57% charge.
I’m not glad Wyze stole the rectangular look of the Apple Watch. I much prefer a more traditional round watch. I think I might be warming up to it more as I enjoy the Wyze Watch.
The watch feels well-made and like premium materials. I’m flabbergasted. How do they sell this thing for $20 with this build quality?
I look forward to future firmware updates. If there’s leftover memory in the watch, I’d like to see them add a few more applications. A fun and simple game would be interesting.
I don’t see Wyze creating an SDK for third-party apps. I think we will get what Wyze wants us to get. That’s so Apple of them!
[UPDATE: 2021-04-25] Notifications from apps other than text and phone on my Pixel 4XL are not appearing on the watch. I’m hopeful a firmware (current version is 0.12.37) update will correct this issues.
[UPDATE: 2021-04-25] Sports tracking does not work for outdoor running. It appears this tracking is for indoor treadmill use. When I use outside, tracking is a good ½ to ¾ of a mile off. Again, a firmware version could correct this if they provided the ability to input the measurement of your run stride.
[UPDATE: 2021-04-25] I purchased a new band for my Watch and love it. It’s a Solob 22mm Stainless Steel Magnetic Mesh Band that is much easier to remove than the stock band. At around $10 it make the watch look more expensive, is more comfortable, and is easier to remove. Band replacement is simple since the Wyze Watch comes with a quick release. I’m going to grab one for my TicWatch C2+ which is my goto WearOS watch.
[UPDATE: 2021-04-25] Speaking of the TicWatch C2+, I should provide my wear schedule for both devices. On a normal workday (meaning I go into the office), I wear the TicWatch for it’s more robust notification and app support. These additional features enhance my productivity. On days where I work from my virtual office, on the weekends, or in the evenings, I wear the Wyze Watch. During those times, the Wyze Watch is a pure fitness tracker and I love the sleep tracking. The TicWatch will not make it through an entire evening on a battery charge. It sits on the charger at night ready for the next day at work.

That’s it for now. I’ll update this page as I have more time with the watch and as firmware updates roll in.

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Use the Retrohax.net mouSTer on the MEGA65

2021-03-20T00:00:00+00:00

In this FAST LOAD, I try to get the new mouSTer from Retrohax.net working with my MEGA65 Developer Kit. Watch the video below and then come back to this blog post to see if I was successful. Spoiler alert; at first the device did not work; however, I get this wonderful USB HID to DB9 connection device working, and it’s not as hard as I imagined.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

YouTube Video: FAST LOAD: Use the Retrohax.net mouSTer on the MEGA65

In the video below, I connect a mouSTer to a MEGA65 and see if it works.

Video Markers

I embed the video markers below in the video so you can jump around to specific content. Of course, I hope you watch the entire video!

[00:00] MEGA65 Update
[00:05] CR 1220 Battery
[00:12] Disk Drive Mounting Spacers
[00:23] No 1351
[00:33] What about a USB Mouse?
[00:59] FAST LOAD
[01:06] RetroHax.net
[01:15] Package Contents
[01:25] mouSTer overview
[01:37] plug in the mouSTer
[01:48] MEGA65 Starter Guide
[01:55] Connect and out of box test
[02:52] Upgrade mouSTer firmware
[03:50] New firmware test
[04:29] Yaped32 mouse test (C65 mode)
[04:48] Art Studio 1351 Version (C64 mode)
[05:03] MHz modes in C64 mode
[05:36] GEOS 65 demonstration
[06:08] Conclusion

Video Errata (as of 2021-03-20)

None as of 2021-03-20

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links to the entire Retro Games Commodore series. All Amazon links are affiliate links (#ad). Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Final Thoughts

Below are additional mouSTer thoughts and information I did not include or elaborate on in the video.

Unfortunately, as of 2021-03-20, the mouSTer is out of stock. They were limited when I snagged one; however, I hoped they would be back in stock by the time I shared my video. Keep checking. I’m sure they’ll return.
The mouSTer is encased in what appears to be a silicone sleeve. I like it; however, if you want to print your own case, check out The mouSTer project – another UPDATE - retrohax.net. On this page are links to a case you can print. It looks bulky to me; however, it does give me an idea for my own case. Hmm…
I originally conceived this video as a longer demonstration of the MEGA65. I decided against this longer video in lieu of a FAST LOAD. I have some other content to create for the MEGA65, so stay tuned.
The VictSing mouse I use in the video is my daily driver on my new M1 Mac mini. It’s a great mouse, at a great cost (around $35). What I love about it is that not only does it include additional buttons, it can be used in either Bluetooth or USB dongle mode - very versatile!
I did not take any time to discuss the options available in the .ini file that the mouSTer creates on the USB drive. I include the file contents at the bottom of this post. The comment statements serve as a manual for the device. That’s pretty slick when you think about it. When you upgrade the firmware, you get the updated instruction manual!

That’s all for now but I do often add thoughts later. If I do, they will be date stamped.

Join the Fun

You won’t want to miss that fun, so make sure you SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

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🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Bonus MOUSTER.INI contents (Firmware v3.11.1962)

Below is the .ini included with the firmware. I provide so those without a mouSTer can review the contents prior to purchase, or while waiting. It might help readers make a purchase decision. I also plan to use this page instead of constantly looking for my USB drive.

; mouSTer - universal USB HID class device to db9 adapter.
; Firmware version: 3.11.1962
;
;
;                                           _/_/_/  _/_/_/_/_/
;    _/_/_/  _/_/      _/_/    _/    _/  _/            _/      _/_/    _/  _/_/
;   _/    _/    _/  _/    _/  _/    _/    _/_/        _/    _/_/_/_/  _/_/
;  _/    _/    _/  _/    _/  _/    _/        _/      _/    _/        _/
; _/    _/    _/    _/_/      _/_/_/  _/_/_/        _/      _/_/_/  _/
;
;
; ###############################################################################
; #                                                                             #
; # Features:                                                                   #
; # Emulates Atari, Amiga and Commodore 1351 mouse.                             #
; # Can handle up to 16 buttons that can be translated to any action*           #
; # Can handle up to 6 axes, that can be translated to any action*              #
; #                                                                             #
; # More to come...                                                             #
; #         *any action - means any joystick direction or fire/mouse button     #
; #                                                                             #
; ###############################################################################
;
; ###############################################################################
; # User Manual                                                                 #
; ###############################################################################
;
; ###############################-Blink-Codes-###################################
;
; mouSTer is communicating with you using MORSE CODE or simply blinking the LED.
; List of possible messages:
;
; Very fast blinking: Bootloader is Active and is waiting for USB drive with new firmware.
; If USB drive is not detected within 2s, main program will be launched.
;
; Normal blinking: mouSTer is ready, and is awaiting USB HID device (mouse, game pad etc).
;
; HeartBeat: 2 fast blinks and long pause. mouSTer is alive and operational.
;
; SOS: <... --- ...> Critical problem has occurred. Not possible to recover from this state. Please cycle power.
;
; E: <.> An error has occurred. Remove USB device | Check INI file syntax.
;
; R: <.-.> Operation successfully finished. Remove the USB device.
;
; ##############################-Using-an-USB-Drive-##############################
;
; When USB drive is inserted, mouSTer is looking for a 'mouSTer' folder.
; If the folder does not exists, it will be created and opened.
; Then mouSTer is looking for configuration file: 'mouSTer.ini'
; If exists, configuration will be read and parsed then written to memory.
; If no ini file is present, mouSTer is looking for new firmware file: 'mouSTer.fw'.
; If firmware file is present mouSTer will activate the bootloader, and install new firmware.
; In case if no ini nor firmware present - mouSTer will write (this) ini file
; with manual and current firmware version on the top - into 'mouSTer.ini' file.
;
; mouSTer is case insensitive.
;
; mouSTer config   file: '/mouSTer/mouSTer.ini'
; mouSTer firmware file: '/mouSTer/mouSTer.fw'
;
; most up to date information and the latest firmware is always available at: http://Jil.guru/mouSTer
;
; ##################################-Configuration-###############################
;

[mouster]
; general settings.
;
; mode=
; Operating mode, what device mouSTer will emulate.
; default: auto
; Possible values:
; [00|auto|] - mouSTer will self determine what device to emulate.
; [01|mouse|mice] - lock to mouse mode only
; [02|gpad|gamepad] - lock to gamepad mode only
; [255|reset_to_default|jmp_$e477] - Load default values for mouSTer configuration and end processing ini file.
mode=mouse

;
; afRate=
; Auto Fire Rate. Can be used with ANY defined button.
; Define time between consecutive 'auto' presses in 10's of miliseconds.
; fx: afrate=15 => button will be auto pressed every 150ms ca 6 times per second.
; to activate Auto Fire function on button, prepend its definition with * (asterisk)
; when function is defined twice, as a normal and as an autofire, and both are activated, the autofire will take the priority.
; default: 15
; Possible values:
; [0-250] - numeric value * 10
afRate=15

;
; heartBeat=
; Define the heartbeat LED behavior.
; default: heartbeat
; Possible values:
; [00|off|false] - Heartbeat is turned OFF
; [01|on|true] - Heartbeat is turned constant ON
; [02|heartbeat|normal] - Heartbeat is normal, 2 short pulses and long pause.
heartBeat=02

;
; potPullUp=
; Defines if pull-up resistors on POT lines should be active. In some rare cases setting this to OFF may fix compatibility issues with POT lines.
; default: on
; Possible values:
; [00|false|off] - direction states will be validated
; [01|true|on] - direction states will not be validated
potPullUp=01

[mouse]
; mouse emulation settings.
;
; type=
; Mouse type to emulate.
; default: atari
; Possible values:
; [00|atari|ata] - mouSTer will emulate atari mouse.
; [01|amiga|ami] - mouSTer will emulate amiga mouse.
; [02|c1351|c64] - mouSTer will emulate commodore C1351 mouse. Requires mode=mouse !! will not work in auto. Require real SID.
; [03|LAME8|A8] - Special mode dedicated to A8 - #### Function not implemented yet #####
type=02

;
; microstep=
; In another words, DPI divider. Allow you to slow down your mouse to adapt speed to capabilities of old devices.
; Define how many real mouse steps should be translated to one virtual step
; Because division by 0 causes critical error, setting it to 0 causes critical error. Try if you don't believe me.

; default: 10
; Possible values:
; [0-250] - numeric value
microstep=10

;
; mbutton=
; Mapping physical mouse buttons for digital (atari or amiga) mouse emulation mode.
; default: mbutton01->lb, mbutton02->rb, mbutton03->mb, other->none.
; Possible values:
; [00|none|off] - button is ignored
; [01|lb|left] - left button/fire
; [02|rb|right] - right button/paddle A
; [03|mb|middle] - middle button/paddle B
; * Can be defined as an Auto Fire button by prepending * to definition .e.g mbutton01=*01
mbutton01=01
mbutton02=02
mbutton03=03
mbutton04=*01
mbutton05=*02
mbutton06=*03
mbutton07=00
mbutton08=00
mbutton09=00
mbutton10=00
mbutton11=00
mbutton12=00
mbutton13=00
mbutton14=00
mbutton15=00
mbutton16=00

;
; cbutton=
; Mapping physical mouse buttons for c1351 mouse emulation mode.
; This mode require a REAL SID. Will not work with e.g. SwinSID.
; default: cbutton01->fire, cbutton02->up, other->none.
; Possible values:
; [00|none|off] - button is ignored
; [01|fire|trigger] - joystick fire
; [02|north|up] - Joystick up/north
; [03|east|right] - joystick right/east
; [04|south|down] - joystick down/south
; [05|west|left] - joystick left/west
; * Can be defined as an Auto Fire button by prepending * to definition .e.g cbutton01=*01
cbutton01=01
cbutton02=02
cbutton03=00
cbutton04=*01
cbutton05=*02
cbutton06=00
cbutton07=00
cbutton08=00
cbutton09=00
cbutton10=00
cbutton11=00
cbutton12=00
cbutton13=00
cbutton14=00
cbutton15=00
cbutton16=00


[gamepad]
; gamepad emulation settings.
;
; gbutton=
; Mapping physical gamepad buttons for joystick emulation mode.
; GamePad always has a HAT SWITCH that is always mapped to directions.
; default: gbutton01-04 are mapped to fire, other->none
; Possible values:
; [00|none|off] - button is ignored
; [01|fire|lb] - joystick fire/trigger, mouse left button
; [02|pa|rb] - paddle A, mouse right button
; [03|pb|mb] - paddle B, mouse middle button
; [04|n|u] - Joystick up/north
; [05|ne|ur] - Joystick up-right/north-east
; [06|e|u] - joystick right/east
; [07|se|dr] - joystick down/south
; [08|s|d] - joystick down/south
; [09|sw|dl] - joystick down/south
; [10|w|l] - joystick left/west
; [11|nw|ul] - joystick up-left/north-west
; * Can be defined as an Auto Fire button by prepending * to definition .e.g gbutton01=*01
gbutton01=01
gbutton02=01
gbutton03=*01
gbutton04=*01
gbutton05=00
gbutton06=00
gbutton07=00
gbutton08=00
gbutton09=00
gbutton10=00
gbutton11=00
gbutton12=00
gbutton13=00
gbutton14=00
gbutton15=00
gbutton16=00

;
; axis=
; ##### Function partially implemented - only default settings are available and working. Tested only with PS4 controller #####
; Mapping physical gamepad axes for joystick emulation mode.
; in this mode, axis can be also mapped to PADLE to become true analog axis.
; axes mapped to one direction are triggered  at ca. 75% deflection
; axes mapped to double direction are triggered at ca. <25 and >75 deflection
; default: axis01->ew, axis02->ns, others->none
; Possible values:
; [00|none|off] - axis is ignored
; [01|n|u] - axis is one direction north/up axis
; [02|s|d] - Axis is one direction south/down axis
; [03|ns|ud] - axis is true north-south/up-down/Y axis. Default for Y axis
; [04|e|r] - axis is one direction east/right axis
; [05|w|l] - axis is one direction west/left axis
; [06|ew|lr] - axis id true east-west/left-right/X axis. Default for X axis
; [07|lb|fire] - axis is one direction fire button
; [08|rb|pad] - axis is one direction button mapped to paddle A
; [09|mb|pbd] - axis is one direction button mapped to paddle B
axis01=06
axis02=03
axis03=00
axis04=00
axis05=00
axis06=00

;
; validate=
; Validate if pressed direction button are giving valid joystick direction
; valid states are: n, ne, e, se, s, sw, w, nw or neutral
; invalid states are fx: ns, ew, new ,nesw etc.. When invalid state is detected, the neutral state is applied
; buttons nor paddle never are validated
; default: false
; Possible values:
; [00|false|off] - direction states will be validated
; [01|true|on] - direction states will not be validated
validate=00

Nikki shares thoughts on 8, $12 Amazon St. Patrick's Day Gnome Ornament Faceless Doll Decorations

2021-03-14T00:00:00+00:00

In an impromptu video, I hold a mic in front of Nikki and ask her questions about her latest Amazon purchase, the St. Patrick’s Day Gnome Ornament Faceless Doll Decorations Green Clover Gnome Doll Ornaments Irish, Swedish Leprechaun for St. Patrick’s Day Party Christmas Elf Scandinavian Decoration (8 Pieces). WHEW! That’s a mouthful. What does she think? Watch the video below and then read the this post for additional gnome and behind-the-scenes thoughts.

YouTube Video: Nikki missed the Aldi Finds Irish Gnomes, but found these Amazon replacements

In the video below, Nikki shares her latest Amazon decor and DIY purchase. There be gnomes in the house!

☕ If you find this blog post and/or video valuable, please consider buying me a coffee? The caffeine will keep the blog posts and videos coming your way!

Video Errata

None as of 2021-03-14.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Final Thoughts

Below are additional thoughts about this build that expand on the content in the companion video:

I really did catch Nikki off guard. I grabbed my TASCAM DR-40X audio recorder, cornered Nikki in the kitchen and she gladly agreed to capture a few minutes of audio.
Speaking of audio, my apologies for the pops during my questions. Nikki’s audio was perfect, but I brought the mic too close to my mouth and had to do some fancy audio editing in DaVinci Resolve to get rid of some really gnarly pops and hisses. If you think it is bad, you should have heard it before I made those edits. Note to self, put the recorder on a tripod and place it between us.
Nikki and I use to host a LEGO podcast for adults called, Bricks in my Pocket. Even then, we were a good team and shared a lot of laughs. I miss those times and this was a fun throwback to our previous collaborations. As Nikki said after watching this video, we really are good together. Yes we are, Nikki! Yes we are.
Left on the cutting room floor was audio shared by Nikki that better explains her gnome project. Because of COVID, she decided to leave our white Christmas tree up all year round. It has become a therapy tree for us! She uses each month’s holiday as an excuse to decorate. Christmas stayed on the tree throughout January. February brought colorful red heart decorations. As she shares, March turns the tree green for St. Patrick’s day. Each month, Nikki decorates and creates a DIY front door decoration. They are fun, festive, and amazing!
I told Nikki she needs her own channel so she can share her DIY decor projects. I don’t think she bought it.
Back to the gnomes. They do hang nicely but while Nikki does rate them a 7.5 (between 7 and 8), I’m not so sure they are worth $12. I guess around a buck fifty, they’re pretty good. And Nikki’s correct. The nose is an easy fix.
This was a fun video to edit. I had to get creative since I didn’t have visuals for every minutes of audio. Would both of us on camera been more engaging? Probably. Would it have been appropriate? Probably not. We were still both in our P.J.s enjoying our morning coffee. You never know when the inspiration hits you!

Join the Fun

You won’t want to miss that fun, so make sure you SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

Thanks for reading and watching and if you are so inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Wyze Robot Vacuum Open the Box and First Use | Does it suck?

2021-03-08T00:00:00+00:00

It’s time for a Wyze product OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE. This time, it’s the Wyze Robot Vacuum, the newest smart and app enabled vacuum from one of my favorite brands, Wyze. In this blog post and companion video, I open the box and use the vacuum for the very first time.

YouTube Video: OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE: Wyze Robot Vacuum, Does it suck?

Watch the video below and then read afterward for my additional thoughts on this new smart vacuum from Wyze.

Links Mentioned

Below are the links (#ad) mentioned in the video:

Other Wyze Products I Like

Final Thoughts

My final thoughts are often a numbered list. Here’s the list for the Wyze Vacuum:

This vacuum is just now becoming available for purchase and is only available from Wyze directly. It is probably a few months from being available from Amazon. When it is, I’ll update this post with new links. I know how my readers and watchers like to support the site! 😄
I was initially worried about the height of the LIDAR tower. Would the vacuum fit under furniture? For our home, it works. Unlike our previous Eufy, this robot never got stuck. That’s likely a feature of the more robust series of sensors.
In the video I use the standard suction level (or as I like to call it, a moderate version of suck). I have to assume that setting the suction level higher will result is faster battery drain. As it stands, battery life is good for our first floor (roughly 1500 ft²). Based on what I know so far, I believe the vacuum can use the highest level of suction and complete our entire upstairs. I’ll try that soon and hopefully remember to update this post.
In the video, I don’t spend time describing my previous “smart” vacuum, the Eufy. This vacuum does not include any smarts beyond bump and go. No Bluetooth, no Wi-Fi, and no app. It does include a remote control with return home, scheduled cleaning, manual mode, and area functions. Suction is good, but as I found, not as good as the Wyze. We plan to keep this vacuum in the litter box area where I cat hangs out and put it on a regular schedule.
When I purchased the Eufy, the cost was around $150, so about $100 less than I suggest in the video; however, the Eufy isn’t as technologically sophisticated as the Wyze. If you want to save $100, however, I do recommend the Eufy.
[2021-03-28:] It is rare that my wife like’s my love of smart gadgets, however, the Wyze Smart Vacuum is spouse approved. Her favorite feature is also the mapping and the virtual walls.

That’s it for now. I do update and timestamp posts as I receive questions and post updates. Check back later and make sure you add this site to your RSS feeds.

Have Questions?

Well, I can see by the time on Wyze Band (#ad) that I’ve taken up too much of your time! Have questions about the Wyze Vacuum? Post them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them.

retroCombs: THEVIC20, THEC64 (maxi and mini) Firmware 1-5-2 Update

2021-02-06T00:00:00+00:00

This blog post is a companion to the my FAST LOAD video embedded below. During the video, I upgrade my THEVIC20 to firmware version 1-5-2. This firmware update includes new features for not only THEVIC20, but also for the THEC64 mini and THEC64. Watch the video to find out what’s new and then read my additional thoughts below for more information.

YouTube Video: FAST LOAD: THEVIC20, THEC64 (maxi and mini) Firmware 1-5-2 Update | theC64-1_5_2.bin

In the video below, I demonstrate the process to update the MEGA65 (Dev Kit), core, SD card essential files, MEGA65.ROM, and M65Connect software.

Video Markers

I embed the video markers below in the video so you can jump around to specific content. Of course, I hope you watch the entire video!

[00:00] Openhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AW0MPkZR9oing
[00:12] FAST LOAD Bumper
[00:22] Download Firmware
[00:58] Update THEVIC20
[01:40] What’s new
[02:58] City Crusher (VIC-20)
[03:35] Mine Sweep (VIC-20)
[04:11] Blue Star (VIC-20)
[04:42] Hessian (C64)
[05:48] PET Snake Redux (C64)
[06:11] Uridium (C64)
[06:45] End Screen

Video Errata (as of 2021-02-06)

The correct reply to the firmware update prompt [01:21] is not yes. It is Apply.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links to the entire Retro Games Commodore series. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Final Thoughts

If you need more detailed information on how to update these devices, check out this FAST LOAD video.
I’d still like to know how games are selected for the carousel. The addition of PET Snake is puzzling. Is PET a nice homage to the Commodore PET? I hope so!
I could not figure out how joystick port swapping works. Drop a comment if you know how to use this feature.
REUs! Can you say GEOS? I’d love to see if I can get this working since REU and multi-disk software now works.
Thank you Retro Games for continuing to add features to these devices. This will add longevity to our devices. I can’t wait to see what you have in store for us in the next update.

Join the Fun

You won’t want to miss that fun, so make sure you SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

Thanks for reading and watching and if you are so inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

retroCombs: Update the MEGA65 and utility software

2021-02-04T00:00:00+00:00

Updating the MEGA65 requires several steps that can confuse new owners (count me in that group!). This blog post and associated FAST LOAD video will demonstrate the process and serve as a reference to update a MEGA’s SD card essential files, MEGA65.ROM, core (bitstream), and the M65Connect software. Before reading the rest of the post, I recommend you watch the retroCombs FAST LOAD video. You will find it after the table of contents below.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

YouTube Video: FAST LOAD: Update the MEGA65 / SD card files, core, and .ROM / Includes a short demo (w/GEOS)
Video Errata (as of 2021-02-04)
Why Update?
Update the SD Card
Update the Kernal ROM
Update the Core
Update M65Connect
BONUS: Format an SD card using the MEGA65
Summing Up

YouTube Video: FAST LOAD: Update the MEGA65 / SD card files, core, and .ROM / Includes a short demo (w/GEOS)

In the video below, I demonstrate the process to update the MEGA65 (Dev Kit), core, SD card essential files, MEGA65.ROM, and M65Connect software.

Video Errata (as of 2021-02-04)

Discord is a tricky thing and before the video was even live, there was a change. I reference using the stable-releases channel to access the core. That channel is no longer available. Use the experimental-releases channel. I’ve made the change in the Update the Core section.
Only one hour after posting this blog post and I’m already receiving great feedback. The MEGA.ROM is only available to those who entered their ROM developer code into the MEGA65 Files Host; however, “its surely possible to get the rom “elsewhere” if you don’t have a dev code!”
The developers also want me to share that they understand the process is a bit cumbersome right now; however, it is evolving and they want to implement an “all-in-one” web solution. That will be AWESOME!

Why Update?

MEGA65 ownership (especially the Dev Kit), means continual updates full of fixes, compatibility enhancements, and new features. Luckily, there’s a community on developers devoted to these updates. In their free time, they even help non-developers like me.

I reached out to atdbm (@adtbm#1347) and asked, “What’s the priority for updates, the MEGA65.ROM or the CORE.” Below is the answer used to guide the flow of my update process. He wrote (not a direct quote and modified):

MOST IMPORTANT:

Always use the latest SD card essential files

Choose a bitstream that works for you, (I use the latest version after confirming that all standard functions work)

ROM, chose either 911210 (latest as of this writing) or the latest MEGA65 ROM by BitShifter (I use Bitshifter’s ROMs because they are super fast and clean)

The starter guide and user’s guide both include parts of the update process; however, I’ve tried to capture them all in this single easy to follow blog post and video.

Let’s get started!

Update the SD Card

This step assumes you have an SD card formatted. If you do not, check out the BONUS: Format an SD card in the MEGA65 section below. The first step is to update the SD card “essential” files listed below:

FREEZER.M65
AUDIOMIX.M65
BANNER.M65
C65HUMB.M65
C64HUMB.M65
DEFAULTP.FPK
MEGA65.ROM (Not included in download)

WARNING: If you have .d81 or .d64 files (other files) on the SD card, this process won’t overwrite them; however, I recommend you make a backup.

Login to the MEGA65 File Host.
Select the Files area.
Download the MEGA65 SD card essentials - No ROM files.
Use your operating system’s tools to extract the files. The file is a compressed .rar and operating systems (OSs) usually include the ability to extract these files.
Copy/Move the extracted files to the SD card.

NOTE While it is not necessary to reformat the SD card to update the MEGA65, I do include the instructions in the BONUS: Format an SD card in the MEGA65 section below in case you have a brand new SD card.
If you have older versions of these files on the SD card, your computer will prompt you to overwrite them. Select yes, but again, make sure you have all SD card files backed up in case your upgrade goes awry.

If you have the latest MEGA65.ROM file on the SD card, your update is complete. If you need to update the .ROM file, continue to the next section.

Update the Kernal ROM

Login to the MEGA65 File Host.
Select the Files area.
Download the latest MEGA65 SD Kernal ROM. The file will have a .BIN extension.

NOTE: The link above works for MEGA65 FILE HOST account holders who own hardware. An Open ROM for MEGA65 is available for XEMU emulator users.
Rename the MEGA65.ROM on your SD card to the previous version number (for example: MEGA65-3-6.ROM). This will archive the previous .ROM in case the new one doesn’t function properly.
Rename the new .BIN (named: 920124.BIN as of this writing) file to MEGA65.ROM
Copy the MEGA65.ROM file to the root directory of the MEGA65 SD card along with the other essential files.
Eject the SD card from your computer.
Ensure the MEGA65 is off.
Insert the SD card into the MEGA65.
Turn on the MEGA65. The ROM version will display in the last line of boot screen information as shown in the image below:

With the essentials file on the SD card updated, you can now explore the new features and upgrades; however, there is one more thing to do; update the hardware, via a bitstream (core), as I demonstrate in the next section.

Update the Core

Bitstream cores do not currently reside on the MEGA65 File Host. You will find them on the MEGA65 Discord.

Visit the experimental-releases channel on the MEGA65 Discord.
Use the Search tool in the upper-right corner to search for the bot, Jenkins. These posts will contain a link to the latest version of the cores in .bit or .mcs file formats.

NOTE: In the future, MEGA65 cores will come in .cor file format. For now, we convert .bit and/or .mcs files and transfer the core via M65Connect or copy it directly to the SD card (my preferred).
Download the most current .bit file.
Load the M65Connect software.
In the main menu, select File / Create COR File. The Create COR file dialog box will appear as shown below:
Select the Source file, or the .bit file, you downloaded in step #3.
Select a Display name. I recommend something similar to: 2021-02-04 MEGA65r3.
Select a Display version. I recommend the date of the display: 2021-02-04.
Select the Save as… button. M65Connect will create the .cor file in the same directory as the original .bit file.
Copy the .cor file to the root directory of a MEGA65 formatted SD card that contains all essential files.
Eject the SD card.
Ensure the MEGA65 is off.
Insert the SD card into the MEGA65.
Hold the No Scroll button and turn on the MEGA65. The cores utility screen will appear as shown below.

NOTE: THE MEGA65 supports eight cores. Core 0 is reserved and will always contain a default MEGA65 core that is hard, by design, to change. This ensures a working core is always available.
Select an empty core, or a core to replace using CTRL + the core number (1→7). The screen border will flicker and the core selection screen, listing new cores found on the SD card, will appear as shown in the image below:
Use ↑ and ↓ keys to move through the list, select the core to flash, and hit ⏎. The MEGA65 will first erase the core in the flash slot (if there is one), install the new core/bitstream, and then verify the core/bitstream. When complete, the MEGA will indicate, Flash slot successfully written. Press any key to return to menu.

NOTE: This is not a fast process and can take up to 20 minutes if a core needs to be erased first. Luckily, the MEGA65 includes a progress bar.
Press ⏎ and the core menu will appear again.
Use the ↓ to move to the new core item in the menu and press ⏎. The MEGA65 will restart with the new core and use flag this core as the default core until you load the core menu and select another core. That’s a lot of core!
Unless you want to archive this core, after flashing, you can delete it from the SD card.

As mentioned, you have seven usable cores. You can use them to test various MEGA65 cores, or in the future, there will be new cores for more computers such as Atari and Amiga computers. As of this writing, you can install a ZX Spectrum core, the ZX-Uno!

Update M65Connect

While not required to update the MEGA65, go ahead and check on a M65Connect update. The latest version (1.2 as of this writing) of the M65Connect software is available to anyone on the MEGA65 File host or you can click the links in the instructions below for specific operating systems versions:

Mac

Linux

Windows

The link’s page lists the current version number to compare with the currently installed version. Once downloaded, install the M65Connect software following your operating systems process. I don’t cover the features of M65Connect in this blog post. If you are interested, drop a comment below and let me know.

BONUS: Format an SD card using the MEGA65

Before beginning, you must have a SDHC SD card in either 8, 16, or 32Gb size. Anything smaller or larger may not work.

Ensure the MEGA65 is turned off.
Remove all cards from the MEGA65 except the one you intend to format. This will ensure you don’t accidentally format a working SD card.

NOTE: The internal SD card is on bus 1, and the external card is on bus 0. The MEGA65 will always attempt to boot the external, bus 0, SD card first.
Insert an SD card to format into the MEGA65. If it’s an original or large SD card, insert in the internal slot. If it’s a micro SD card, insert it in the external slot.
While holding down the [ALT] key, power-on the MEGA65 and the MEGA65 Hypervisor Menu will appear as shown in the image below:
Select SDCARD FDISK+FORMAT UTILITY from the menu and the screen below will appear and then poll each SD card reader to determine if and what size card is attached.
If you followed my steps, you will have a single SD card attached to format. Select the corresponding number (either 0 or 1).
The MEGA65 will prompt you to type a long verification statement. Type this string as shown and press the ⏎. The MEGA65 will format the SD card.

When the process is complete, you will need to either copy an archive of your essential files, or follow the steps beginning in the Update the SD Card section.

Summing Up

Those are the steps for keeping the MEGA65 (DevKit) updated and I hope these will be the same steps for the product’s final release. If not, no fear. I’ll update this post with the most up-to-date process. When and if I do update, you will find ~~strikethroughs~~ and timestamps.

Since these procedures are not something I do everyday, I’m sure I will come back to this post the next time I need to upgrade my MEGA65. Hopefully, you will too! Let me know in the comments below, or under the video, if there’s something missing or I could explain with better clarity. Enjoy the MEGA65 folks! I know I am.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

COBI M60 Patton Tank and a COBI versus LEGO comparison

2021-01-21T00:00:00+00:00

I’m an Adult Fan of LEGO (AFOL) and a LEGO fan since my 1970s childhood. As far as I remember, LEGO has always been in my home and a part of my play. In the 1980s, I purchased a MEGA block space set but quickly found they were not the same quality as LEGO.

During the 1990s, I went through my dark-ages (that time when we set LEGO aside because of, well, adulting). When my daughter turned 5 in the 1990s, she began to show interest in more complicated LEGO models other than DUPLO and we built together. A father’s dream come true! LEGO has been in our family ever since. Is there the possibility that I would ever purchase a competing brand of building brick? Watch the video and read the blog post below to find out.

YouTube Video: COBI M60 Patton Tank and a COBI versus LEGO comparison

In the video below, I share my COBI M60 Patton build and compare the COBI brand to the LEGO brand.

☕ If you find this blog post and/or video valuable, please consider buying me a coffee? The caffeine will keep the blog posts and video coming your way!

YouTube Video: COBI M60 Patton Tank and a COBI versus LEGO comparison
Table of Contents
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Video Outline
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Video Errata

None as of 2020-11-25.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Video Outline

Before I begin, I have to get the dog off my instructions!

Why this video?

“And now for something completely different.”

Below are the reasons I choose to produce this video, which is a far cry from my regular gadgets and retro-computing content:

A colleague at work mentioned COBI building blocks and then showed me his U-BOOT U-48 Submarine model.
He purchased because he and I often lamented that LEGO won’t create military models (he’s a modeler extraordinaire); although they will create Star Wars and have in the past offered the WWI Sopwith Camel and Red Baron plane models.
I’m a LEGO fan from way back, an adult fan of LEGO (AFOL), and admittedly a LEGO snob. LEGO clone brands such as MEGA-Blocks, Kre-O, and Best-Lock were always seen as inferior brands fraught with legal troubles, inconsistent color, loose fits, shoddy building instructions, and poor click compatibility.
I love LEGO so much that in the early 2000s, My wife and I hosted, a then popular, podcast call Bricks in my Pocket.
During that time, I was selected to serve as a cycle 2 LEGO Ambassador.
Despite all this, the COBI submarine model spoke to me. Could a clone brand ever appeal to me?
I held the submarine model in my hands. It was heavy, the blocks ha a tight fit, the price was right, and my colleague told me they had a M60 Patton Main Battle Tank available. He was knowingly appealing to my inner armor officer.
That’s right, I’m a retired Army officer who began his Army career as an Armor officer in the late 1980s. The first armored vehicle I began training n was an M60A3.
Even beyond retirement, I’m a huge fan of military and especially armor history (image of books).
Put all this together, and I immediately let go of my LEGO snobbery, pulled up Amazon and made the purchase. And, I wasn’t content with only the M60; I added the M113 Personnel Carrier to my shopping cart. (Image)
Both models are a part of the historical Vietnam model collection.
Will these models meet my building block expectations? Let’s find out.

Who is COBI?

Who is COBI? Where’s their country of origin? And what else do they do? Let’s find out:

You have to respect their four letter name.
Per their website:

COBI is a Polish manufacturer of high quality construction blocks manufactured in its own production facility in the Special Economic Zone in Mielec (Sub-Carpathian region, Poland, European Union).
So, not a Chinese company.

The construction blocks are manufactured from the highest quality European raw materials, have certificates and meet all the necessary standards and restrictive requirements of the European Union for products for children.
Obviously trying to complete with LEGO and demonstrate their quality.

COBI is also an importer and distributor of a wide range of licensed toys, such as: interactive toys, creative sets, educational and strategy games, dolls, action figures, plastic models for gluing and folding and many others.
Yes, they make toys other than building blocks. Will this other business pull COBI’s attention from the quality of their building sets?

Packaging

Before we build the model, let’s take a look at the packaging:

The box itself (cardboard thickness) and colorful artwork is on par with LEGO quality. The graphics are polished and grab the eye.
The front of the box places the M60 model in a simulated battle environment. That’s a nice touch.
The number of pieces for this model is 605 elements and 2 figurines; an “American Officer” and an “American Soldier”.
No stickers is a huge win for me. I’ve not purchased LEGO sets because they include stickers. It always seems like a “cheap out” instead of being “pad printed” as COBI highlights on their box.
We even get technical information for not only the M60, but the included M16. This is the only place you find this information. Unfortunately, COBI doesn’t include any additional details in the building instructions.
Scan the QR code with your phones camera and it takes you directly to the COBI model page, not their main page. That’s a nice feature because on their model page you’ll find a complete description and history of the M60, model specifications, a virtual instruction manual, owner comments, and related products.

View COBI Build Images

This video uses many images that you may want to review individually. I’ve included my COBI M60 Google Photos album below to peruse:

Open the Box

As is customary in my videos, let’s do a quick open the box and see what’s inside:

After opening the end of the box, the building instructions were the first thing I saw.
After the instructions were pulled out, I found three large bags of building elements. I’ll highlighted them frequently as I build the M60 Patton.

Building Instructions

No model is any good if you can’t put it together; and LEGO has the best instructions. They continue to evolve and get better over time and as someone who has created build instructions, I can attest to how much time is involved. Let’s see how COBI’s instructions rate:

Paper quality is on par with LEGO. Pages are thick and paper is high quality glossy stock.
Looking inside we find themed background pages, numbered steps, a parts list for each step, and a parts placement with previous layers grayed out to highlight part placement for the current step.
In the back of the instructions is a complete bill of materials elements parts listing. The inclusion of what page you will find what pieces would be nice and is not something found in LEGO instructions either.
I appreciate the listing of models I might like after building this one. It does make me want to visit their website and explore what they have to offer.

Bags

All elements are organized in larger and then smaller bags in similar fashion to LEGO models:

Parts come in numbered bags that coincide with the building instructions (which we will talk about later). The numbers are black letters on a white background and easy to find and sort.
Instead of the “crinkly” plastic bags used by LEGO, the larger bags are more consistent with the plastic used by zip lock baggies; albeit a thinner polymer.
The smaller bags inside are more consistent with LEGO bags and are almost identical is quality, sound, and appearance.
LEGO will soon ship bricks in environmentally friendly paper bags and we can expect others such as COBI to follow the industry leader.

Construction

Now it’s time to build the M60 Patton and I was admittedly excited to dive in. Here’s what I found out while building:

Take a long look at upper-left hand corner of the first page. COBI must have learned lessons from past models and included a handy, “NOTICE THE DIFFERENCE WARNING” that I failed to observe and therefore did in fact miss the difference parts A, B, and C. Because of this, I had a gotcha that later required me to tear the model down several layers. Read the instructions, Steven!
Next I wanted to compare the COBI bricks to the LEGO bricks. Look at a plate, I immediately noticed the COBI name on each stud; which is eerily reminiscent of the LEGO brand and font.
Looking at the back of this larger plate, I noticed was a marked difference from LEGO; however, things looked more normal with smaller bricks and plates as you can see here.
Enough of the branding and comparison discussion. Let’s get to building.

Variety of Elements

As I was building, I noticed an interesting variety of building elements:

There many familiar element shapes, but there were new ones I’d not seen in LEGO kits (and I’ve built many a LEGO set).
What I found interesting was the odd number lengths of plates and bricks. While LEGO normally includes even number elements, 2 x 2, 2 x 4, and 2 x 6, this model had many 2 x 5 and 2 x 7 elements. Have to admit, I was a fan of those.
I was a fan of these 1 x 3 elements that provide a flat surface on the bottoms of plates and bricks. LEGO may have these, but I don’t remember them. I know watchers will correct me and drop comments below. I look forward to those comments.
COBI includes what appears to be many custom parts for this, and possibly other track vehicles. For example, the two roller axles. Two kinds: one with a longer axle to accommodate a wheel and roller and another with a shorter axle to accommodate a wheel.
Let’s talk action figures, or in LEGO parlance, minifigs. COBI minifigs are “more” anatomically correct, if there can be such a thing in a building block action figure.
This set includes and American officer and solider. I will say, I love the armored cavalry hat and sunglasses on the officer and the helmet and vest on the soldier. The included M16 rifle is an element you will never find in a LEGO set (but Star Wars blasters are okay, I guess) and the set appropriately includes binoculars.

Quality

What about COBI quality control?

I measured the weight of a brick and a plate in my non-scientific quality test. I was pleased to find that they were almost identical for like parts.
Next I made a quick parts fit comparison between COBI and LEGO elements. The fit was tight and the click was satisfying. As far as fit and weight goes, you’d be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two other than the name on the stud.
In hindsight, I should have compared fit clearance; however, that would have taken time away from building. I will say that fit and clearance “appears” to be similar to LEGO.
However, there was an issue with the COBI elements that hindered the final product appearance; the runner, or sprue, cutoffs are visible on the model after assembly. You don’t see these on the box; they’ve probably been digitally removed; however, they are noticeable all over my model. Take a look! (images)
There was another QC issue for a plate. I’ve never seen a LEGO brick pass through QC that had studs. What happened here? Luckily this was the only plate with issues; however, in all my years of building LEGO sets, I’ve never seen an element marred like this plate.
While my weight exercise revealed similar results, this part could tell a different manufacturing story. On this element there appears to be a thin top layer that lets the form of the inside of the brick bleed through if the light hits the element just right. Again, not something I’ve seen with LEGO bricks.
Here’s an element where an engineer made the unfortunate decision to locate the sprue right on top of a stud. Thankfully, this part is embedded within the model and not seen after the build, but if you want to use for your own builds on a top layer or studs not on top (SNOT) build, this would be annoying.
Earlier I mention my disdain for stickers. I love that COBI stamps all their elements. Other brands include stickers to drive down the cost of their models. Even LEGO does this for some sets. I can’t stand stickers!
One part of the build that concerned me was the tracks. Would they be realistic and work? I’m happy to report that the construction and operation of the tracks is excellent. The tracks have a center guide (a real thing as you can see by this center guide I keep in my office), good fit across the rollers, and even sound good when you push the model across a table.

Cost

I was interested in how the cost of COBI models compare with LEGO so I did some research:

The M60 Patton model had 605 elements, two action figures, and I paid $49.43 (retail $52.14).
I tried to find a similar model with the same or lower number of pieces, similar build difficulty, and minfigs. Something with a military theme. The closest LEGO theme is the Star Wars line.
I searched Amazon since this is where I purchased my COBI set.
The closest LEGO model I could find to meet my criteria was, the Y-Wing Star Fighter, with 578 pieces, four action figures, and a cost of $55.99 (retail $69.99)
Now I have to add that LEGO has to pay Star Wars branding fees; however, if look at Amazon, the price is about $5 more for 27 fewer elements, but you get two additional minifgs.
The story is different if we look at retail pricing. $52 for COBI versus $70 for LEGO. That’s about a 20% increase for the LEGO set for less elements. It’s not an accurate cost proposition, but it does give us an estimate of COBI value which I classify as good.

Recommendation

The final words should be my recommendations and here’s what I think about COBI building blocks and in particular, the M60 Patton set:

The build was at times a fun challenge and I would not recommend this model for those younger than 9 or 10.
This model is an accurate recreation of the M60 with enough detail touches to make any military modeler, or armor soldier, happy.
Proportions feel correct with a main gun that moves up and down.
The turret and the copula both rotate and the driver’s hatch even opens!
The tracks look and feel great when rolling the model.
The inclusion of an ammo box was appreciated as was the extra detail for the bustle rack.
The only thing missing is the ability to place the action figures inside the model. They will not fit and the tank model is not designed to accommodate them.
My final recommendation? As long as LEGO will not sell military models, based on my experience, COBI is the brand to go with if you can forgive the sprue removal visibility. Other than this one issue, COBI has a lot of positives such as; no stickers, element quality, fit, build instructions, attention to model accurate detail, and cost.
Will I buy more COBI models? I already have and will soon put together an M113 Armored Personnel Carrier (another armored vehicle from my Army days). I’ll probably follow this build up with at least the M1A2 Abrams to fill out my Army career in building block.
COBI doesn’t offer a C130 cargo plane; however, if they do, I’ll buy one to cover my Air Force enlisted days.
In the end, I feel like my colleague at work has taken me down a military building block rabbit hole. There are many other COBI military models that interest me. We’ll have to see how it goes and how deep it hits my pocket book.
Want me to share my M113 building experience or other COBI builds? Let me know by leaving a comment below.

Final Thoughts

After I film videos, there are always additional thoughts that pop up. Here are the thoughts for this video:

Producing this video was fun. I hope I captured my story, a comparison of the two brands, and the build.
I had to kill a lot of my darlings to get this video in the 20 minute time frame. There’s a lot of video on the “cutting room floor” as they say. During my edit, I felt some was self-serving and didn’t add value or background. Let me know how I did.
Can’t wait to up the M113 together. Once that one’s complete, I’ll put both of them in my office at the college. They will make great conversation pieces and unfortunately for the visitor, will set me down a long path of telling “war stories!”

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retroCombs: A review of the Commodore VIC-20 Games on the THEVIC20 and THEC64 maxi

2021-01-16T00:00:00+00:00

THEVIC20(C64) it is a divisive Commodore emulator. There are those, like me, who love that the system is keeping the retro-computing alive, while other lament that the system is nothing more than a mere emulated shadow of the original. Which ever side of the campfire you sit, my goal for this short series of videos was to shine a light on the games included with these systems. As I stated on several social media posts, the games are a collection of winners, stinkers, surprises and questions.

I'm back after a wonderful holiday. I had some time today to work through the first 13 VIC-20 games on my new @THEC64_RGL THEVIC20. A few winners, stinkers, surprises, and questions.https://t.co/3C9EEyCx9X #C64Retweets #thec64 #commodore #RETROGAMING
— Steven Combs (retroCombs) ❄️🌨️🕹️ (@StevenCombs) January 4, 2021

Before I share additional thoughts about my time experiencing many of these games for the first time, please watch both parts 1 and 2 below.

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Watch the Video: THEVIC20 and THEC64 VIC-20 Games (Part 1)

In the video below, I play games Adbductor through Gridrunner.

Watch the Video: THEVIC20 and THEC64 VIC-20 Games (Part 2)

In the video below, I play games Harvester through Zor.

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Video Errata

None as of 2021-01-16.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the videos. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Complete List of Games (and additional thoughts)

Not all the Commodore VIC-20 (or C64 for that matter) games included with THEVIC20 are good. Some are the bare minimum needed to fill one of the carousel slots (I’m talking to your Connect 4!); however, there some fun gems. Remember, the carousel is only the beginning. You can use a USB drive with .d64, .tap, or .crt files to experience the massive collection of Commodore 8-bit software, and not just games.

Part 1 (Abductor → Gridrunner)

Below are the list of games I demonstrate in part 1 of the series. A time code follows the title and these time codes are in the video so you can jump around to the games you want to see. I also include a joystick rating (see rating system below).

Rating	Description
🕹️	You will play for a minute or two and never play again. A curiosity.
🕹️🕹️	Fun for occasional play. You probably won’t play after a day.
🕹️🕹️🕹️	Hours of fun and you’ll return to play. It’s a gem.

Abductor (🕹️🕹️)[01:30] - Think, Defender meets Galaga, but with less impressive graphics. Excellent recreation that shows off the 8-bit capabilities of the VIC-20.
Andes Attack (🕹️🕹️🕹️)[03:17] - Inspired by Defender but with llamas in peril! Fun, retro, excellent sound, and addictive.
Arcadia (🕹️🕹️🕹️)[05:06] - Another game similar to Galaga but reminds me more of the Atari 2600 game from Imagic, Demon Attack, so that’s automatically a winner!
Bewitched (🕹️🕹️)[06:16] - Not related to the beloved 1960s-70s sitcom. More closely related to the Atari 2600 game, Adventure, but with more keys, walls and mazes.
Blitzkrieg (🕹️🕹️)[07:40] - Missile command without the complicated controls. One function; drop bombs on building before you run into them. Mindless and easy.
Brainstorm (🕹️)[09:04] - Why did the chicken cross the road? Not sure and this game doesn’t help explain why aliens would either. Obviously a puzzle game and one that I had no patience to play. Horrible.
Catcha Snatcha (🕹️)[11:34] - Some might enjoy this early predecessor to the now popular kitchen games. I don’t like kitchen games (my wife loves them), so this is a “no-go” for me.
Connect 4 (🕹️)[13:22] - It’s connect 4. What more is there to write, only that the checkers are not round. Why not? No joystick support for this one. Unless you love connect 4, you won’t appreciate that this one takes up one of our precious carousel spaces.
Encounter (🕹️🕹️🕹️)[14:00] - One of many Pixel Production games that intrigues me. The storytelling is fantastic (for a VIC-20 game) as are the graphics. In this production you make decisions, via puzzles and challenges, as you have a close encounter of the third kind.
Frantic (🕹️🕹️)[16:41] - I didn’t spend enough time in the video with this one. There are some intriguing features of this game once you understand the controls. Great sound and “first-person” shooting from the early 80s.
Frog Chase (🕹️)[18:29] - A frustrating version of Frogger that I found impossible to play. Huge lag and controls and game play makes the game feel like a BASIC program.
Gridrunner (🕹️🕹️🕹️)[19:30] - Classic, and finally, a popular game included on THEVIC20. Frantic pace with great game play and audio. One of the VIC-20’s best.

Part 2 (Harvester → Zor)

Below are the list of games I demonstrate in part 2.

Harvester (🕹️)[01:30] - Obviously Dune inspired with all it’s “Boosterspice;” and can be a laborious as reading the Dune series. Awkward controls make for a game you are unlikely to think of as fondly as Dune.
Headbanger’s Heaven (🕹️+)[02:30] - I want to like this, “things dropping from the sky game,” but I’m having a hard time with the controls. This was tough one for me to rate. I gave it an unusual and non-committalcommital (🕹️+).
Hell Gate (🕹️🕹️🕹️)[04:15] - A game with an unpronounceable antagonist name but from one of our favorite developers, Jeff Minter. This one is Gridrunner-esque, frantic, and a whole bunch of fun to play.
Laser Zone (🕹️🕹️🕹️)[06:20] - Another Minter game simple to Hell Gate but a little less frantic. Like Hell Gate, great graphics and sound make for hours of fun game play.
Martians (🕹️🕹️)[08:00] - Back and forth, back and forth, game. You control the back an forth while you try and destroy the Martian who are rising up. Bound your laster off of leftover Martian wings to clear the round. Spend time with it and it gets better.
Matrix (🕹️🕹️🕹️)[10:00] - Not based on the beloved 1990s film; however, Jeff Minter strikes again (literally) with this Gridrunner/Centipede clone that is exciting and super addictive.
Mega Vault (🕹️)[11:30] - Frustrating game that is so hard, even the colorful graphics won’t keep you in the game play. I really want to like this game, but since I can’t get past the first obstacle, I’ll never know if it’s fun.
Metagalactic Llamas Battle at the Edge of Time (🕹️🕹️+)[13:10] - The best name for a VIC-20 game EVER! Not only that, but this game is fun to play. Not as original or exciting as Minter’s other titles, but who doesn’t like laser shooting Llamas (which is as much fun to type as it is to say?
Psychedelia (🕹️🕹️🕹️)[15:20] - Not a game but a wonderful psychedelic simulation. If you want to perch your THEVIC20 on a bookshelf and have it run a “screen-saver,” this is as close as it gets. Remember to hit keys on the top row to change to the display.
Snake (🕹️)[18:00] - It is the classic Snake game but comes with an extra dose of frustration. Impossible joystick control and if you make it past 10 seconds of play, please let me know in the comments below.
Starquest (🕹️🕹️+)[20:00] - Another Pixel Productions game; and when they state Productions, they mean it. A game with wonderful graphics and sound that suck you into the story. May not be everyone’s cup of tea and takes some time for the story to unfold, but the 11-year old in me can pretend I’m on a starship saving the universe.
Subspace Striker (🕹️🕹️🕹️)[23:45] - See above; however, this one is sucked me in with it’s Lunar Landing style mini game. I plan to get the instructions for this one and spend some time working through the story.
Tank Battle (🕹️+)[26:50] - It’s Tank Battle and similar to every other Tank Battle program available on other 8-bit platforms. TB games really are the solitaire of 8-bit computer games; every platform has one and as far as that goes, this one serves it’s purpose.
Traxx (🕹️)[27:40] - Traxx has a great premise, but the controls are too frustrating. The ship jumps around 1, 2, or 3 space in response to a single space joystick request. I never cleared a level. Skip this one unless you are looking for a reason to throw your THEVIC20 against the wall.
Wacky Waiters (🕹️)[29:50] - Did we really need two restaurant inspired games? Answer, we didn’t and this one suffers the same fate as many; controls are horrible.
Zor (🕹️🕹️🕹️)[31:00] - See 11 and 12 above; however, this one stands out for it’s alien artillery game, graphics, sound and flashing screen. It shows off the graphics capabilities of the VIC-20. And how about that PETSCII drone?

Final Thoughts

These videos were recorded during my Christmas and New Year’s vacation. I extend my holiday vacations to enjoy and share these types of projects. Playing with THEVIC20 during the holidays created great retro-computing memories.
Had THEVIC20 not included a keyboard, many of these VIC-20 games would be frustrating to play. This might explain one of the reasons, other than hardware, why the VIC-20 emulator is not included on THEC64 mini.
As many have stated, there are better games that should take carousel space. I’m sure the reasons Retro Games includes these titles is due to cost and copyright. If funds were exchanged, Jeff Minter and Pixel Productions made a killing! I understand Retro Games can’t just grab games and throw them on the system. Doing so would almost suredly open them up to legal action. Don’t buy these systems based on the games included. If you do, you will be sorely disappointed.
HOWEVER, if you want to know what made these systems so special, get out there and purchase a THEVIC20, THEC64, or THEC64 mini now. You will have a blast reliving the glory days of 8-bit computing.

Join the Fun

You won’t want to miss that fun, so make sure you SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Help make this series better! Post feedback, questions, and ideas. Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube videos.

Thanks for watching and if you are inclined, please let other Commodore fans know about the series by sharing my blog posts and videos using the hashtag, #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

retroCombs: The Combian pi/400 Project. Use Combian 64 and a Raspberry Pi 400 to create the ulitmate Commodre computer emulator

2021-01-10T00:00:00+00:00

There’s a lot of excitement around the Raspberry Pi 400. I mean look at this thing (see image below). It’s a self contained Raspberry Pi with a keyboard and a form factor reminiscent of the original 1980s 8-bit computers; albeit, much thinner and lighter. Since I first learned about the 400, I had one project in mind and I’m happy to finally reveal that project in this post and the companion YouTube video.

UPDATES: Last updated {2021-01-12} (date stamp next to changes)

As readers and viewers know, I’ve taken a look at several devices this past year that promise to bring back the early days 8-bit computing. When the Raspberry Pi 400 was released, my first thought was, “I wonder if it will work with Combian 64?” In this post and companion video, we’ll find out as I show you how to open the box, configure, brand, and change the key caps on a Raspberry Pi 400 to make it the ultimate VICE emulator.

NOTE: Welcome to 2021 and I couldn’t be happier about my very first post. This one has been a long time coming and I’m so glad I had time over the 2020 Christmas vacation to work on this project.

This companion blog post will roughly outline the steps needed to turn the Raspberry Pi 400 into a Commodore VICE emulator extraordinaire! Since I use a Manjaro Linux, the step-by-step might not be helpful for Mac and Windows users; however, a broad outline of the process should suffice for most reasonably tech savvy readers.

☕ If you find this blog post and/or video valuable, please consider buying me a coffee? The caffeine will keep the blog posts and video coming your way!

Below, I include a table of contents so you can jump around to various sections. If there’s something missing that you need to complete your own project, drop comments below this post or in the YouTube video.

Table of Contents

Watch the Video
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Download Combian 64 V3.0
Extract Combian 64
Install Combian 64 on an SD Card
Upgrade Combian 64 on another Raspberry Pi
Raspberry Pi 400 Open the Box
Install the Combian 64 micro SD Card
Plug in the Raspberry Pi 400
Startup the Combian 64 computer
Configure Combian 64
Configure the keyboard
Keyboard Stickers
Design, print, and apply a logo and serial number plate
Configure the joystick from THEC64 maxi or mini
Game Demo
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Watch the Video: Raspberry Pi 400 + Combian 64 distro = Combian pi/400 | The Ultimate Commodore Computer Emulator?

In the video below, I demonstrate the process to convert a Raspi 400 into a full functioning Commodore 8-bit computer emulator.

Video Errata

{2021-01-12} - Facebook commenter Lonnie added that in order for him to get a full screen display (with black on the sides only) he had to use the rasps-config utility to turn overscan compensation OFF.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Did I miss one? Drop a comment and let me know.

Download Combian 64 V3.0

What is Combian 64? Here’s how Carmelo, the developer, describes it:

Combian 64 is Raspberry Pi distribution able to boot your Raspberry Pi Commodore machine in just few seconds. It uses the brand new compiled version of Vice 3.4 to emulate all the Commodore Machines set. By default, Combian 64 boots the Commodore 64 emulator, but it’s not the only one included in the distro…”

While the default Commodore machine is the C64, VICE version 3.4 includes the following emulators:

x64, the fast C64 emulator
x64sc, the accurate C64 emulator
x64dtv, the C64DTV emulator
x128, the C128 emulator
xvic, the VIC-20 emulator
xpet, the PET emulator
xplus4, the PLUS/4 emulator
xcbm2, the CBM-II emulator (CRTC models)
xcbm5x0, the CBM-II emulator (VIC-II models)
xscpu64, the SCPU64 emulator

Within each of those emulators are more settings and models of each machine including, displays, memory expansions, kernals, VICs, drives, etc. The number of options can overwhelm; however, these options lead to some pretty sophisticated emulated hardware configurations that were beyond the pocketbooks of most users in the 1980s. With VICE you have access on your personal computer (Mac, Linux, and Windows) to about any Commodore computer operating system ever made. Since VICE is available on Linux, it’s perfectly matched for the Raspberry Pi and especially the Raspberry Pi 400 with it’s built-in keyboard.

~~Before you download Combian V3.0, you need to support the project.~~ {UPDATE: 2021-01-11} Support for all versions no longer require “project support,” but I still recommend you “tip” Carmelo (see Final Thoughts number 2). Versions prior to 3.0 are free to download but won’t work with the Raspberry Pi 4 or 400. No specific amount is required; however, I recommend you tip Carmelo at least $10 to $20 to keep this amazing project alive.

Extract Combian 64

The Combian 64 image is compressed using (7-Zip). Depending on the OS, you may or may not need additional software to extract the archive. Check out the 7-Zip downloads page.

Once you extract the image file, install it on a micro SD card. Anything larger than an 8GBs will suffice; however, currently 16Gb is the most affordable and available like this SanDisk Ultra for only $5.

Install Combian 64 on an SD Card

Etcher is the best way to flash an image to an SD card and it’s available for Linux, Mac, and Windows. Download, install, and then follow the steps as shown in the animated GIF below. First select the image. Second, select the SD card. And third, flash the SD card.

The hardest part of this process is selecting proper drive. WARNING!!! Check it once, check it twice, to ensure you flash the correct drive.

Upgrade Combian 64 on another Raspberry Pi

Unfortunately, the Combian 64 image does not include the hardware support necessary for the Raspberry Pi 400 (Carmelo plans to include these in future versions). The good news is the image is ready for a Raspberry Pi 4. Grab yours or a friends. Honestly, if you don’t have one, you should go ahead and get one. You are sure to use it for other projects.

Grab a $100 4GB model if you have some light computing projects such as emulators and browsing; however, grab a $120 8GB model if you want to replace a computer in the home, set up a light PC for a child, or build media server.

Time to upgrade the Combian 64 distribution.

Setup the Raspberry Pi 4 with a keyboard/mouse combination.
Connect an HDMI monitor.
Plug in the prepared micro Combian 64 SD card.
Plug in the Raspberry Pi 4 to the USB-C power cable.
Once the Raspberry Pi boots, load the Terminal and type the following commands:

sudo apt update / A password prompt will appear. It is raspberry sudo apt dist-upgrade / This will apply the updates and takes some time. Grab a coffee, or better yet, buy me one too so we can sip together!
With the update complete, use the Raspian OS menu and shutdown the Raspberry Pi.
Once the Raspberry Pi 4 lights shuts off, unplug the Raspberry Pi 4.
Remove the micro SD card from the Raspberry Pi.

It’s now time to grab the Raspberry Pi 400.

Raspberry Pi 400 Open the Box

There are two boxes you can purchase that include a Raspberry Pi 400. The $100 complete starter kit or the $70 Raspberry Pi 400 only. I choose the later since I didn’t need an SD card, mouse, HDMI cable, manual, or cables. My open the box in the video is short and sweet (for once!), but I do cover the basics included with the $70 box; which isn’t much.

Install the Combian 64 micro SD Card

This is the easiest step. Insert the Combian 64 micro SD card into the Raspberry Pi 400. Unlike the Raspberry Pi 4, the Raspberry Pi 400 includes a spring loaded and eject micro SD card slot. No more “scrapping” the SD card from the Pi using your fingernail or a screwdriver.

Plug in the Raspberry Pi 400

Connect the Raspberry Pi 400 to the USB-C power cable but do not plug it into the wall yet.
Connect an HDMI monitor.
If you plan to play games, go ahead and plug in a THEC64 Joystick. It works out of the box with Combian 64! No configuration necessary if the games conforms to the normal joystick port selection.

That’s it. We don’t need a mouse since those weren’t “really a thing” in the 1980s on Commodore computers.” However, I do eventually plan to give GEOS a try and see if a USB mouse will work. If you know the answer, drop a comment below!

Startup the Combian 64 computer

Plug in the the USB-C power cable to the wall. Depending on the power supply, you may need to flip a switch on the cable.
The Raspberry Pi will boot up the Combian 64 distribution and by default, into Commodore 64 mode. The first boot will take longer than subsequent boots. Afterward, Combian will boot in about 10-15 seconds.

Configure Combian 64

Now that we have a working Combian 64 distribution working on the Raspberry Pi 400, it is time to make quick modifications. Modify the settings within the VICE emulator and in the raspi-config utility that comes with every Raspbian OS distribution. Instead of a long list of commands, I’ve created a PDF with Combian 64 screenshots to provide the configuration settings and help you navigate the menus. Use the link below to download.

Combian pi/400 configuration settings

REMEMBER: While in the C64 emulator (or any other emulator), hit the F8 key. This will open the emulator configuration menu.

One last thing to REMEMBER: you must makes these changes in EACH emulator you plan to use (in my case ALL OF THEM!). The majority of the settings I share are available in all emulators. A few color specific options are not available on the PET emulator since it was a monochrome system.

Configure the keyboard

The keyboard configuration for the C64 mode works with a standard keyboard; however, PET, PLUS/4, and VIC-20 reverts back to original key locations. That’s what I want so the Combian pi/400 feels more like an original Commodore computer. Let’s revert the C64 keyboard back to the defaults. Hit the F8 key and work your way through the settings below:

Settings Management / Active Keymap / Symbolic to Positional

See the PDF above for screenshots of the menu system.

Keyboard Stickers

I’ve explained that I want to the keyboard to resemble original Commodore computer keyboards; however, on the Raspberry Pi’s modern keyboard, typing can be a bit frustrating as you try and remember which keys do what. That’s where the 4Keyboard brand, Commodore 64 key cap stickers come into play. Available in white or black, I use the white to remind me which keys produce which PETSCII characters. Each sheet is about $4. I purchased two black sheets and two white sheets since I could get all for a standard shipping rate of $4. I’m really pleased with the keyboard and it looks pretty good, as shown in the image below:

Design, print, and apply a logo and serial number plate

I’ve chosen to name this build the Combian pi/400. I like the name since it combines the Combian distribution with the Raspberry Pi while at the same time, harkens back to my last name, Combs. The /400 aligns perfectly with my love the Commodore Plus/4. Once I had the project name, it was time to develop a design for a logo. I choose to keep something Commodore and retroCombs inspired and again, drew inspiration from the Plus/4 as shown below:

I’m sure I’m unique in this regard; however, I do 90% of my design work in Google Slides for the blog and the YouTube channel. Every graphic I use in this video I create and export from Google Slides. That will seem odd to many professional, and even amateur, graphic designers; however, I find Google Slides provides me with just the tools I need while at the same time gives me free and anywhere access to my files and the tools to make modifications; on almost any PC or mobile device I own. I do wish slides included features like layers, Boolean geometry creations, and custom fonts; however, I now know how to work my way around these limitations for most of my projects.

Another feature of Slides is the ability to share and collaborate; as is evidenced below where I share my original slides so you can see my design process and even copy the file to modify and use for your own project.

All I ask is that you link back to this post, or the YouTube video, and provide attribution. If you share your build online, please tag it with #retrocombs.

With the design complete and a single sheet with multiple and properly sized logos and serial number labels prepared, it was time to print. I found Aiva Printable Vinyl Sticker Paper for Laser Printer and I was anxious to try these in a new Brother HL-L8360CDW Color Laser printer (which are hard to find due to the pandemic). I sent the print job from my Mac and used the Mac print dialog box, rather than the Chrome print controls, since they provide more refined printer control. The logos and serial number plate were beautiful and the colors brighter on vinyl than they were on a piece of paper.

Cutting out the logo and serial number plate was the final step before application. I print a paper sheet first to practice my technique before I commit to vinyl. The final vinyl sheet includes many copies so I can recover from eventual cut mistakes, and there were many. Finally, with a good logo and serial number plate vinyl cut, I use my X-Acto knife to place each one; being careful not to touch them directly and soil the vinyl with the oils from my skin.

I’m thrilled with the results, as shown in the images below:

I had some fun with verbiage on the serial number and FCC plate. Notice anything? Leave a comment below and let me know. What would you add to your serial number plates?

Configure the joystick from THEC64 maxi or mini

Good news! Plug in a THEC64(VIC-20) maxi or mini USB joystick and it just works! No configuration necessary. You can purchase these joysticks individually for around $30. They make the perfect VICE joystick for an old school gaming experience.

Game Demo

To demo the new Combian Pi/400, I choose to play the the homebrew shooter, Valkyrie 3 - The Night Witch. I turn on the disk drive access emulation sounds (directions in configuration PDF above), mount the .d64 disk image in the VICE menu, boot the emulated C64, and the experience was awesome!

I demonstrate playing this game in the video and am using THEC64 joystick. It really was fun and felt true to the original gaming experience on a C64.

Final Thoughts

While the Combian pi/400 is perfect for the home or office, it’s also the perfect travel size! Imagine packing this in your bag and connecting it that HDMI monitor in a hotel? What about sharing your love of 8-bit Commodore computing with your family? This is that machine.
This project, as Brian Joyce on Facebook commented, “Very nice man! As both a Commodore and a Raspberry Pi fan, this ticks every box for me!” Same here, Brian!
There are several things I plan to do with the Combian pi/400. I hope to find time to document them here and in video. I mention GEOS, but I’m also interested in performance. What about you? Have something you think I should try with the Combian pi/400? Drop a comment and let me know. If I can scrape up the time, I’ll see what I can do.
{UPDATE: 2021-01-11} There’s been some, and when I write some I mean a couple of individuals, controversy about whether Combian V3.0 should be behind a support/tip me firewall. Carmelo was quick to react and has now made V3.0 available as a direct download; however, I still contend that you should “tip” Carmelo for his work to package everything up and create the wonderful menu.
{2021-01-11} This is one of my most viewed videos within a 24-hour video (~~350+~~ 420+). While that’s not impressive for YouTubers, it’s just fine for me! I love this hobby and that small group who continues to support my journey as I reconnect with my Commodore computing roots. I can say this without hesitation; Commodore computers changed my life-path and allowed me to become who I am today. If you think back, you will probably agree.

Join the Fun

That’s it for this post. You won’t want to miss the fun, so make sure you SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel. Also make sure you subscribe to the RSS feed. You won’t want to miss future projects.

I also update many posts regularly with new information. I’ll time stamp those changes when I do so if you return, you know where the modifications are made.

Help make this video better! Post feedback, questions, and ideas. Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

Thanks for watching and if you are so inclined, please let other Commodore fans know about this video and blog post and share using #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

retroCombs: 10 reasons THEVIC20 and THEC64 are a great retro-computing gifts

2020-12-17T00:00:00+00:00

Have a retro-computing fan in your life and don’t know what to get them? Or maybe you are looking for a little something for yourself, or maybe, just maybe, you need a last-minute suggestion for Santa? Here are 10 reasons RetroGames THEVIC20 (and THEC64) is the perfect holiday gift for all retro-computing fans.

My list also applies to THEC64 and THEC64 mini. I like modern devices that bring back that retro feeling. Check out my channel for more.

THEVIC20 is a modern recreation of my first computer, the Commodore VIC-20. I absolutely had purchase one but they are like a unicorn; hard to find. Imagine my surprise when THEVIC20 popped up on the Amazon store in the United States. I immediately purchased and then spent the next four weeks wondering if it would actually arrive at my door. It did! Watch the video below and then continue to read this post to learn even more about THEVIC20.

YouTube Video: 10 reasons THEVIC20 and THEC64 are great retro-computing gifts

In the video below, I share 10 reasons why THEVIC20 is the prefect gift for the retro-computing fan on your holiday shopping list.

Video Errata

10 Minute Amiga Retro Cast wanted to remind everyone that you can use a USB keyboard with THEC64 mini. Great reminder and I recommend the Logitech MK270. For $20 you get a wireless keyboard with mouse and long battery life. Perfect for a hobbyist keyboard.
Chris Hawkins mentioned he’d like to have original ports on the back of these devices. I would agree. A couple of 8 pin connectors and an IEC would make these amazing devices; however, hold that thought Chris. The will be here soon!
I mention in the video it has been 30 years since I opend my first Commodore VIC-20 box. WRONG! It’s been 40! Wow, I’m old.

Links for this episode (#ad):

THEVIC20 THEC64 THEC64 mini A Hobbyist’s Guide to THEC64 Mini [Compatible USB Drives](https://amzn.to/2WkDTYP] HDMI Monitor A Hobbyist’s Guide to THEC64 Mini

Top 10 Reasons (sleigh bells audio between each reason)

It’s fun to unbox (especially on Christmas morning) - You know I love a good open the box and THEVIC20 doesn’t disappoint. It feels and smells like a new 1980s computer. I was surprised at how similar THEVIC20 is to the design of the original.
It feels like the 1980s - Look at that design, those keys, that joystick, those colors, that box. Gnarly, dude. It really did bring back some great memories and I’ve had a blast using THEVIC20 to play games and explore some past programming skills.
Includes retro USB joystick - You can also use this joystick with a modern computer since it includes a USB connector. The inclusion of mechanical switches make this a joystick to be reckoned with. Mechanical switches are an upgrade from the joystick included with THEC64 mini. I do wish they would also make a version of this keyboard for my original VIC 20.
Real Commodore keyboard - Listen to those keys. Unlike the THEC64 mini, THEVIC20 includes real Commodore keys. No more hunting and pecking trying to find the correct key when using an emulator, such as VICE and a modern keyboard.
VIC-20 and C64 built-in - Two, two, two Commodores in one! Unlike the THEC64 mini, it’s “maxi” counterparts include both a VIC-20 and C64 emulator. It really is like getting two computers in one. With a simple selection of a menu item, you can switch between computers.

MID VIDEO BREAK!!!
Includes 64 games. It’s a hit and miss of good and bad; however, it’s still fun to give all of them a shot. The titles are below:

VIC-20 (29 Titles): Abductor, Andes Attack, Arcadia, Bewitched, Blitzkrieg, Brainstorm, Catcha Snatcha, Connect 4, Encounter, Frantic, Frog Chase, Gridrunner, Harvester, Headbanger’s Heaven, Hell Gate, Laser Zone, Martians, Matrix, Mega Vault, Metagalactic, Llamas Battle at the Edge of Time, Psychedelia, Snake, Starquest, Subspace Striker, Tank Battle, Traxx, Wacky Waiters, Zor

C64 (35 Titles): Alleykat, Bear Bovver, Boulder Dash, California Games, Chips Challenge, Cyberdyne Warrior, Cybernoid II, Destroyer, Firelord, Galencia Mini, Gribbly’s Day Out, Heartland, Impossible Mission, IO, Iridis Alpha, Jumpman, Mega Apocalypse, Nebulus, Netherworld, Paradroid, Pitstop II, Planet of Death, Robin of the Wood, Speedball 2, Spindizzy, Street Sports Baseball, Street Sports Basketball, Summer Games II, Super Cycle, Sword of Fargoal, Temple of Apshai Trilogy, The Arc of Yesod, Uridium, Winter Games, World Games, Zynaps
Bring your own games - Use a USB drive and load your own games. The latest firmware (1.4.2) even supports .d64 (multiple images), .tap, and .crt files. Using some file naming conventions, you can even add a RAM expansion unit (REU) to the VIC 20 all the way up to 32K.
Regular firmware updates - Firmware updates bring new features and occasionally a new collection of games. Check out my FAST LOAD video to learn how to download and perform a firmware upgrade.
It’s hackable - There’s so much more you can do with the units than what is included in the paltry starter guide. A Hobbyist’s Guide to THEC64 Mini(#ad) by Holger Weßling is a great start.
Affordable - Inexpensive when you consider the cost of both an original VIC-20 and C64 Even when I consider my shipping costs to get THEVIC20 across the pod, it was definitely a good value proposition.

BONUS: HDMI for crisp 720p HD visuals, at 60 Hz (NTSC) or 50 Hz (PAL) and works with modern displays such as HDMI monitors and televisions.

Final Thoughts

In addition to my 10 reason above, below are some final thoughts.

It is a shame these are so rare. Both THEVIC20 and THEC64 are rare and hard to find, especially around the holidays.
There’s not much I don’t like about these devices. If I had to pick a nit-noid, it would be the lack of games in the carousel. 64 games will keep you interested for a day or two; however, it would also be nice to add games to the carousel. You can do this, but it’s a hack that requires some work.
I still find myself going back to THEC64 mini to hack around on this device. I don’t believe I’ll ever take THEVIC20 apart. Taking the mini apart is only a $35 mistake that is easily replaceable. I do plan to hack around more on it and find out how we can push these little devices to do even more. I just wish the mini came with VIC-20 emulation.
I just found a File Loader page on the RetroGames web site. I’ll need to explore that page more. Looks interesting.
Oh, and here’s a Loading Tips page. I’m impressed by the resources available. Nicely done, RetroGames!
Here’s the whole support shebang!

That’s it for now. Check back for additions (which will have time stamps) as I continue to play with these devices.

🎅 Wishing everyone a wonderful Christmas and Happy Holidays.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Music in this episode:

SID Carol of the Bells

OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE: Wyze Cam Version 3 (V3)

2020-12-06T00:00:00+00:00

It’s time for another Wyze product OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE. This time, it’s the Wyze Cam version 3 or Wyze Cam V3. In this video, I open the box (unbox), make all hardware connections, pair a camera to the Wyze app, share examples of image captures, and then compare these images with Wyze Cam version 2 (Wyze Cam V3 -vs- Wyze Cam v2). Check out the video below.

YouTube Video: _OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE: Wyze Cam V3

Watch the video below and then read on for my additional thoughts about the Wyze Cam V3s.

Links Mentioned

Below are the links (#ad) mentioned in the video:

Final Thoughts

My final thoughts are often a numbered list. Here’s the list for the Wyze Cam V3s:

I didn’t include sample video in my YouTube segment. In hindsight, that would have been nice; however, I’ve found that the results are very similar to the still shots I share. Just pretend they move and you have an example of video!
I do like the extra long cable that comes with the version 3s. I have a location outside, to keep on eye on packages, and the extra long cable (6 feet) is perfect!
While the connection between the camera and the 6 foot long cable seems water tight, I’m not so sure about the other end that connects to the power adapter. That’s a standard USB 2.0 plug. That’s a miss and I’ll probably seal that up with some caulking.
I’ve been impressed with camera quality. The more I use it, the more I see the difference between the version 2s and the version 3s.
I highly recommend everyone throw a micro SD card into these cameras. While the Wyze service is inexpensive, comparatively, if you just want to capture video, SD cards are cheap enough to make these inexpensive cameras even more useful for things like squirrels cams.
I continue to be amazed at the price per performance of Wyze products and version 3 of the Wyze Cams lives up to the hype. I’d love to replace every version 2 in the home, but there are just too many!
When will see a version 3 of the Wyze Pan and Scan? I have several of those waiting for replacement!

That’s all for now. I do update and timestamp posts as I receive questions. Check back later and make sure you add this site to your RSS feeds.

Have Questions?

Well, I can see by the time on Wyze Band (#ad) that I’ve already taken up too much of your time! Have questions about the Wyze Cam V3s? Post them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them.

MEGA65 DevKit Open the box, assembly, and first use

2020-12-01T00:00:00+00:00

I’m really excited! I mean, 15 year-old boy excited. That’s how I felt while opening the box, unpacking, assembling, and turning on the new developer’s kit (DevKit) for the first time. Seriously, I’ve not been that excited about a package in some time; and this from the guy who has two brand new Mac minis (with M1 processors) set to arrive a few days before Christmas.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

With all their performance, memory, state-of-the-art ARM processor, and design, they just don’t have that nostalgic feel of the that takes me back to a time when computers were exciting and more than just a tool to be used every day. Don’t believe I was excited? Check out my video below and then read on for some additional thoughts on the DevKit.

YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4, Chapter 6 - Beginning BASIC Programming

In the video below, I open the box, assemble, and fire up my new DevKit:

Video Errata

There are always errors and I’m not ashamed to admit it. That’s how we learn. Here are the errors in my video.

Audio is my YouTube Kryptonite: I’m so sorry for the horrendous audio for the video. I tried out a new lavaliere mic (which is horrible). Of course you don’t find out how horrible until after you record and download into your audio software. I couldn’t get the sound post processed to anything that sounded good. Sigh.
Batteries not included: Aaron commented on video, after he saw my close up of the motherboard without battery, “We were not able to include the CR1220 battery for the RTC clock, since it would be ALOT of more hassle to comply with safety shipping regulations, declaration of dangerous goods, extra stickers, more costs. It just wasn’t worth it.” Makes perfect sense and these are easy enough to source.
FPGA correction: I said in the video that the TheC64 mini(#ad) and other similar units were FPGAs. They are not, but rather run an emulator on top of Linux. Sorry to have slighted the .
3 times for 40 times: There seems to be some confusion in the video about whether I say the MEGA is 3 or 40 times faster. You decide. Personally, I believe I said 40; however, I’m biased.
Watch what you put on video: Chuck posted a question and wanted to know if I just gave away my developer kit serial number at around the 9 minute mark. I did; however, the folks at confirmed it’s a one time code and by the time the video was shared, I had already registered on the developer site. Whew!

Links Mentioned in this Episode

Below are the links I mention in the video. Any Amazon links are affiliate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Additional Thoughts

Below are follow-up notes to my video.

The feel: This thing really does feel like a Commodore computer. Even in DevKit form with acrylic case, I feel like I’m using a “real” Commodore computer. I don’t have this feeling when I use the TheC64 mini(#ad). Now I might have that feeling when THEVIC20(#ad) arrives with its full-size keyboard; however, I don’t think either will capture the magic of this device. While the “THE” series is close, they lack the I/O, ports, ethernet, and expandability that make the feel like the natural successor to the C64 in 2020.
Waiting is hard: I can’t wait for the consumer release. The molded plastic case will only enhance excitement around this device. I’m hopeful I can purchase just a case that will contain my DevKit. If not, I hate to say it, but I can see myself purchasing the final ; and I have no reason to!
GEOS! There’s an optimized version of GEOS on the SD Card! To use; “mount from freezer, reset from freezer, autoboots in 1 sec!” (Thanks, deft!) Oh, I have got to try that! GEOS was my thing back in the day and I would use the C128 version to taunt my Mac friends who spent thousands more to produce the same output on paper.
MOD ready: I have ideas for case mods. The acrylic case is just screaming for mods. No spoilers, but I hope I can find some time over the break to share my ideas.
Read the manual: The digital version of the manual is available. There’s still so much I don’t know about this computer such as; how to load cores, how to use the freezer, what can be done in the firmware, how do I upgrade this machine, how do I connect it to my network, and how do I swap out .d81 disks? I have soooo many questions and the only way I’m going to learn is by reading the manuals provided; which are already in pretty good shape. Oh, and of course pester the guys on Discord.
The missing screw: Did I ever put the missing screw back in the case? Not yet. Because…
PlexiLaser is awesome: I reached out to them and they are shipping replacement spacers. Once I receive those replacements, I’ll add them and the missing screw and…
Wipe down the case: I’ve found even more dust and packing peanut debris inside the case. The acrylic case is a static magnet.
Much more to come: As I learn more about the DevKit, I’ll share via this blog and on my YouTube channel. I will likely make good use of my new FAST LOAD series; short video so you can quickly get back to your own retro-computing projects. Make sure to subscribe and set alerts on my YouTube channel if you want to follow along and also add this blog to your favorite RSS reader.

I tend to add additional thoughts as I think of them, so check back later. I’ll time stamp any additions.

Join the Fun

Help make this post better! Share your feedback, questions, and ideas. Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the video.

Thanks for reading and watching and if you are so inclined, please share this video with the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual Chapter 6 - Beginning BASIC Programming

2020-11-25T00:00:00+00:00

In this Commodore Plus/4 retroCombs episode and companion blog post, I cover Chapter 6, Beginning BASIC Programming, of the Commodore Plus/4 user’s manual. In this chapter, we begin where everyone should with their Commodore computer; learning the BASIC programming language. In previous chapters we have dabbled with BASIC; however, in this chapter, we dive in and learn the “basic” concepts you need to begin your BASIC programming journey.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

Series Information
Companion Disk Image
User’s Manual
YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4, Chapter 6 - Beginning BASIC Programming
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Key to Keys
Introduction
Programming Modes
- DIRECT (IMMEDIATE) Mode
- INDIRECT (PROGRAM) Mode
Input/Output Statements
- Output Statements
- Input Statements
Control Statements and Loops
Conditional or Decisions Making Statements
Subroutines
REM Statements
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

This is not an all-inclusive chapter and you will not become a master programmer after learning these concepts; however, you will have the knowledge you need to create simple programs. This is what made all Commodore computers special; the creation of your own programs. After you work through chapter 6, I recommend you review the Plus/4 Encyclopedia located on page 101 of the user’s manual.

NOTE: Right before posting this video, my YouTube channel reached 1000 (or 1K) subscribers! Thanks to everyone who follows along and please, let others know about the channel so I can continue to bring you more tech and retro-computing video and blog posts.

Series Information

This episode is a small part of my larger Commodore Plus/4 series. You can read the entire series and view additional resources at:

</plus4>

Companion Disk Image

retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image - UPDATED AS OF: 2020-11-24

I use the following file name convention to make it easy to locate specific programs:

Sample Program Name: 02 RCOMBS SCROLL.PRG

02 - The chapter number
RCOMBS SCROLL - my self assigned name for the BASIC program which will be immediately identifiable if you follow along.

User’s Manual

Chapter 6 - Beginning BASIC Programming

Below are the links for previous chapters covered:

YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4, Chapter 6 - Beginning BASIC Programming

In the video below, I work through Chapter 6 of the user’s manual.

Video Errata

None as of 2020-11-25.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video. All Amazon links are affialiate links. Thanks for supporting the blog and the YouTube channel!

Key to Keys

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations as shown in the table below:

Key	Description	Key	Description
`⇪`	Caps Lock	`F1`	Function 1
`[C=]`	Commodore	`F2`	Function 2
`⌃`	Control	`F3`	Function 3
`⎋`	Escape	`F4`	Function 4
`⌂`	Clear/Home	`F5`	Function 5
`⌫`	Insert Delete	`F6`	Function 6
`⏎`	Return	`F7`	Function 7
`[R/S]`	Run/Stop	`F8`	Help
`⇧`	Shift	`␣`	Space
`↑`	Cursor Up	`↓`	Cursor Down
`→`	Cursor Right	`←`	Cursor Left

Introduction

Thank you to all my viewers and especially for those who provide feedback.
.d81 disk image is now available here.
Don’t forget to subscribe to the channel!
I have some great content coming up for retro-computing fans.

Finally! An introduction to BASIC programming even though we have been programming in basic since almost day 1!

Programming Modes

The two programming modes are DIRECT (IMMEDIATE) and INDIRECT (PROGRAM).

DIRECT mode executes statements immediately, as we saw in Chapter 5.
INDIRECT mode organizes and RUNs a series of BASIC program statements one-by-one based on their line numbers.

DIRECT (IMMEDIATE) Mode

Type syntax correct commands on an empty line followed the ⏎. Examples of DIRECT mode commands include:

LIST
DSAVE
DLOAD
VERIFY
RUN
? 2+2

INDIRECT (PROGRAM) Mode

Use this mode to create BASIC programs. Preface each program statement with a line number, followed by a single command or multiple commands separated by a :. Store the program in memory by hitting the ⏎. Execute a program with the RUN command.

TIP: Typically, programmers number BASIC lines beginning with 10 and then work their way up in increments of 10. That is, the next line would be 20. This allows the programmer to easily insert additional code between lines 10 and 20.

BONUS: Commodore BASIC 3.5 includes a RENUMBER command. The syntax is RENUMBER[new starting line #[,increment[,old starting line #]]]. An example; RENUMBER 20,20,1 renumbers program line 1 to 20 with each subsequent line numbered increments of 20.

Input/Output Statements

Input/Output (I/O) statements allow programmers to communicate with an individual running a program or other devices connected to the Plus/4 such as a Datasette, joystick, disk drive, or printer. We’ve used a common I/O command, PRINT (or ?) in previous chapters to display text on the screen.

Output Statements

Let’s take a look at some output statement examples. Two output statement examples are below that answer the questions, “Does my checking account have money?” and “Can I have a purple lizard in my control room?”

100 ? "YOU ARE BROKE!"
150 ? "YOU CAN'T BRING YOUR FRIEND INTO THE CONTROL ROOM!"

We already covered numbers and calculations with the PRINT command in Chapter 5; however, here are a few more examples:

100 ? 58*15,23,45+1000-45*(4-3)

This BASIC program will print:

870 23 1000

R=10*2 : N=R-5
? "R IS";R;"AND N IS";N
? "BUT R TIMES 2 IS";R*2
? "AND N MINUS 2 IS";N-2

💾 On Disk: 06 R&N

Normally, each PRINT statement will automatically move the cursor to the next line. The ; will override and print the line next to the previous line as shown in the example below:

200 ? "THESE TWO SENTENCE PARTS WILL BE ";
210 ? "PRINTED ONE AFTER THE OTHER."

💾 On Disk: 06 SAME LINE

Input Statements

The next examples demonstrate how to collect user and user defined program data. The first example requests user input and then reprints that input as part of an output, or PRINT, statement.

? "WHAT IS YOUR NAME";
INPUT A$
? "I AM PLEASED TO MEET YOU";A$;"."
INPUT "HOW OLD ARE YOU";AG
? AG;" IS A BIT OLDER THAN I AM."

💾 On Disk: 06 YOUR NAME

REMEMBER: Use the RUN command to execute the program.

You may wonder why there isn’t a ? at the end of line 10. The INPUT command automatically adds this symbol at the end of each INPUT statement.

Line 40 includes a variable after the line to collect the numeric data whereas lines 10 and line 20 separated these functions. You can combine lines 10 and 20 as follows: 10 INPUT "WHAT IS YOUR NAME?";A$

The GETKEY input statement accepts a single key press and requires a string variable such as A$. The command does not require ⏎. Below is an example:

? "PLEASE CHOOSE A,B,C,D,E, OR F."
GETKEY A$
? A$

💾 On Disk: 06 A THRU F

NOTE: This code does not include exception handling. You can type in any letter and and the code will print an incorrect result. This is not the intent of the program. We will look at exception handling later.

The final INPUT statement(s) is READ/DATA. The READ statement is similar to the INPUT command; however, a program receives information from code rather than a user. Information is stored in code using DATA statements. Below is an example the reads the names of the Marx Brothers:

READ A$, B$, C$, D$, E$
? A$ : ? B$ : ? C$: ? D$ : ? E$
DATA GROUCHO, HARPO, CHICO, ZEPPO, GUMMO

💾 On Disk: 06 MARX BROTHERS

TIP: This example has the READ command collect character data using string variables in the format X$. If you want to collect numeric data, use a numeric data variable such as X.

The output for this code is:

GROUCHO
HARPO
CHICO
ZEPPO
GUMMO

Is there any better example of the use of the READ and DATA commands?

NOTE: The number of READ variables must equal the number DATA variables or an ?OUT OF DATA ERROR IN XX error will occur.

Control Statements and Loops

We can execute a line of code, one after another, but we can also jump around within code lines using control statements. Using loops, we run code over and over until we hit the [R/S] key or we specify, in the code for a group of code lines, to stop after a specific number of times.

In previous chapters, I would demonstrate a program that continually displays a line of text until the [R/S] key is hit. Remember that code? Here it is again:

10 ? "RETROCOMBS ";
20 GOTO 10

This type of program is know as an infinite loop because it “loops indefinitely” until you tap the [R/S] key.

The GOTO control statement was introduce as early as Chapter 1. It is one of the first basic program commands most learn when they create their first “Hello World!” program as shown in the code above.

There is another way to create an infinite loop and that is with a DO/LOOP statement. This method of creating an infinite loop, that you can break out of within the program, is more elegant than our use of the GOTO command as shown in the example below:

DO
? "GOING UP ";
LOOP

💾 On Disk: 06 GOING UP

The statements between the DO and LOOP continue to execute without the need to reference a specific line number. Let’s rewrite my retroCombs screen fill program using a DO/LOOP statement:

10 DO : ? "RETROCOMBS";
30 LOOP

TIP: As a reminder, use the : character to place more than one program statement in a single line of code. This will reduce memory usage and in some cases, make your code more legible.

We use FOR/NEXT statements to create finite loops; or loops that repeat a certain number of times. A variable in a FOR/NEXT loop counts the number of loops. Below is an example:

? "COUNTUP..."
FOR J= 1 TO 10
? "WE HAVE";J
NEXT J
? "WE COUNTED UP TO";J

💾 On Disk: 06 COUNT UP

The program above “steps” through the loop in increments of one; however, you can modify the STEP value. To increment by a value of 5, the FOR line would like the one shown below:

20 FOR J = 10 TO 30 STEP 5

If we PRINT J, the results would be the following:

10, 15, 20, 25, 30

A negative STEP value allows the counter to count backward. To increment by a value of -5, the FOR line will look like the one below:

20 FOR J = 30 TO 10 STEP -5

If we PRINT J, the results would be the following:

30, 25, 20, 15, 10

Using the negative step value, we can program a NASA rocket program countdown timer as shown below.

? "COUNTDOWN..."
FOR J = 10 TO 1 STEP -1
? "WE ARE AT";J
FOR T = 1 TO 500 : NEXT T
NEXT J
? "WE HAVE LIFT-OFF!"

💾 On Disk: 06 LIFT OFF

NOTE: I modified the countdown program in the user’s manual. The program presented did not countdown with correct timing. My modification, line 35, adds another FOR/NEXT loop to pause the program for about a second between each PRINT statement. This provides a more accurate (and fun) NASA countdown! It also demonstrates how you can sneak in code lines to add features.

TIP: Use the RENUMBER command (RENUMBER,,10) if that single out of balance 35 line number doesn’t work for you and you like the lines numbered from 10 to 70 in increments of 10 as shown below:

? "COUNTDOWN..."
FOR J = 10 TO 1 STEP -1
? "WE ARE AT";J
FOR T = 1 TO 500 : NEXT T
NEXT J
? "WE HAVE LIFT-OFF!"

Conditional or Decisions Making Statements

Up to this point, our Plus/4 has been a basic calculator; albeit a pretty smart one; however, it’s time for the Plus/4 to grow up and make its own decisions using conditional, or decision making, statements such as IF/THEN. In other words, IF this happens, THEN do this.

We often use IF/THEN statements to act on user keyboard, or joystick, input as shown in the example below. This program asks the user to enter the tenth letter of the alphabet using the keyboard, evaluates whether the user’s input is correct, and then chides or rewards the user. If the user is wrong, the program will continue until the user enters the correct answer (which is J, by the way.)

NOTE: The program in the book was a disaster. It appears as if there were two program smashed into a single listing. I’ve cleaned up the program so it makes sense.

INPUT "WHAT'S THE 10TH LETTER OF THE ALPHABET?";A$
IF A$ = "J" THEN ? "CORRECT!" : GOTO 50
INPUT "ANSWER IS INCORRECT. TRY AGAIN? (Y OR N)";X$
IF X$ = "Y" THEN 10 : ELSE 60
? "YOU ANSWERED CORRECTLY, SO WHY CONTINUE?" : END
? "I STUMPED YOU, HUH?"

💾 On Disk: 06 10TH LETTER

In my corrected example, I also include a very important adjunct to the IF/THEN statement; ELSE. For instance, IF a variable, B, is greater than (>) 5 then GOTO line 10. ELSE (meaning if it isn’t) END the program. The basic code for this statement is:

10 IF A>5 THEN 10 : ELSE END

Note that the THEN statement does not need to include the GOTO statement; nor does the ELSE statement. These combinations are used so frequently in BASIC, the interpreter was designed to understand this relationship. This understanding also saves memory.

Subroutines

We create a subroutine to execute the same code over and over in a larger program. Subroutines allow your program to “jump”, or GOSUB, to a code’s location and then RETURN to the original code, where the GOSUB occurred, once the subroutine is complete. This may sound the like GOTO command; however, with GOTO, you have to know specifically which line number to return. The GOSUB/RETURN combination does the heavy lifting for you and will reduce errors if you renumber lines of code.

The code below prompts the user for a number between 1 and 10. If the number entered is within that range, the program will prompt for the same range again. If the number is not within that range (N<1 or N>10), the GOSUB statement will send the code execution to line 100 that prints a statement saying the number is out of range and give it another shot. When two numbers within range are entered, the program will add their values and END the program.

T=0 : FOR J = 1 TO 2
? "TYPE A NUMBER FROM 1 TO 10
INPUT N
IF N<1 THEN GOSUB 100 : GOTO 20
IF N>10 THEN GOSUB 100 : GOTO 20
T=T+N
NEXT J
? "THE TOTAL IS";T
END
? "THAT NUMBER IS OUT OF RANGE"
? "PLEASE TYPE A NUMBER BETWEEN 1 AND 10"
RETURN

💾 On Disk: 06 ONE TO TEN

NOTE: Earlier, I mentioned the concept of exception handling Lines 40 and 50 includes this concept. The program will not stop functioning if the users inputs any number outside our specified range of 1 through 10.

NOTE: The user’s manual original code required the user to type in 99 numbers! We have far too many important things to learn about our Commodore Plus/4 than how to type in 99 unique numbers between 1 and 10.

REM Statements

Use a REM statement to add comments to your code. These can be their own unique lines or added at the end of lines. REM statements are often used to show credit or describe a line’s operation. Below are a few examples:

REM TITLE: REM STATEMENTS
REM CODER: RETROCOMBS
E=R/T*9 : REM THIS FIGURES OUT A PITCHER'S ERA
INPUT A,B : REM A IS HEIGHT AND B IS WEIGHT

REM statements help code readability, portability, and transferability; however, REM statements use memory, so use them sparingly in long programs that are pushing memory limits. After all, we only have 60671 bytes free on our Commodore Plus/4!

Final Thoughts

As the user’s manual states in the summary, this is not an exhaustive study of BASIC nor a complete tutorial. We only covered a fraction of the commands available. Read the BASIC 3.5 Encyclopedia beginning on page 101 to begin your real journey. BASIC is a capable, and fun language, that can bring you hours of fun and help you solve real world problems.

In the next chapter, we will use the basic commands we have already learned and combine with them with unique Commodore Plus/4 BASIC 3.5 graphics commands to create pretty pictures on our screen. These are commands that were not available on the base Commodore VIC-20 or C64. You won’t want to miss that fun, so make sure you SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel.

Join the Fun

Thanks for watching and if you are so inclined, please let other Commodore fans know about the series by sharing these videos using #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

FAST LOAD: Upgrade THEC64 mini firmware (v.1.4.2)

2020-11-11T00:00:00+00:00

One of my favorite retro-computing devices of 2019 was THEC64 mini. I love that it was a mini recreation of the Commodore 64 that not only looked like the original, but when plugged into an HDMI monitor, would also play Commodore 64 games built-in or on a USB drive. Upon release though, there were limitations:

The 64 includes some not-so-great games.
While you can load your own games, you couldn’t have more than one on a USB drive.
The tiny keyboard isn’t functional.
The UI includes a cumbersome virtual keyboard (not great for adventure games).
The joystick includes a few buttons to emulate keyboard controls; however, that too is a cumbersome process.

Luckily RetroBiz does include an easy firmware upgrade; and while it won’t add a physical keyboard, updates can fix many of the other limitations. Before I write about the firmware upgrade process, please take a look at the retroCombs FAST LOAD (around 5 minutes) below.

YouTube Video: FAST LOAD: Upgrade THEC64 mini firmware (v.1.4.2)

In the video below, I demonstrate how to upgrade the firmware on THEC64mini and demonstrate what I get for my efforts:

Download THEVIC20/C64 Firmware 1.4.2

As of 2021-01-20, the most recent firmware has been pulled down from the Retro Games website. Several viewers and readers have asked me if I could provide. I will post here until someone tells me I need to take it down. This is done as a public service to owners of THEC64, THEVIC20, and THEC64 mini until the 2020 Christmas release is online.

Download theC64-1_4_2.bin firmware

Process Overview

Now that you’ve seen the video, below is an overview of the steps:

NOTE: The process below also works for the THEC64 (maxi) and THEVIC20.

Power down THEC64 mini.
Visit https://retrogames.biz/support/upgrade-thec64-mini.
Download the latest firmware, in this case v1.4.2, to a FAT32 formatted USB drive.
Plug the USB drive into THEC64 mini.
Power on THEC64 mini.
Using the Joystick, navigate to Device Settings (the wrench icon).
Select System information.

The current THEC64 mini firmware will recognize the new firmware on the USB drive with the following:

 Firmware update found: theC64-1_4_2.bin

 Do you wish to uppgrade this firmware?

 Close                             Apply

Choose Apply and the upgrade screen (images of a USB drive, status bar, and mini) will appear. Once the upgrade is complete, THEC64 mini will reboot with the new firmware.

That’s all there is to it!

What’s next?

I have another device on order from Amazon, [THEVIC-20](https://amzn.to/3pjwVk2). I had [THEC64](https://amzn.to/3ePEKsJ) on order and then cancelled that order when it didn't meet its availability date in the United States. The same day I cancelled the order, I found vendor on Amazon that would ship a [THEVIC-20](https://amzn.to/3pjwVk2) across the pond at a reasonable rate. My preference was Commodore VIC-20 styling since it was the first computer I owned back in 1981. I have four original VIC-20s in my basement (in various states of repair) and will compare this newer product to its older inspiration. More blog posts to come!

Anyone else enjoying THEC64 mini, maxi, or THEVIC-20](https://amzn.to/3pjwVk2)? Let me know by leaving a comment. I would also love to read your tips and tricks for getting the most out of these little Commodore recreations.

retroCombs: FAST LOAD - Install DirMaster on Linux

2020-10-22T00:00:00+00:00

There are many modern retro-computing applications available that run (see what I did there?) on modern computers to support our hobby. Longtime retroCombs readers and watcherknow I like to take a modern spin on retro-computing and integrate new technology and apps with the old.

If you are a Commodore computer fan, one piece of software I recommend is DirMaster. DirMaster lets you view, create, and edit Commodore disk images (.d64, .d81, etc.) on a Windows PC.

I’m not going to cover the capabilities of DirMaster, but I will demonstrate how Linux users can install this software using the Wine windows compatibility layer; because that’s the only way I would ever allow windows applications in my home or office!

NOTE: Interested a DirMaster tutorial? Leave a comment below this post or on the YouTube video channel. While on the YouTube page, remember to hit LIKE and SUBSCRIBE!

My instructions are for Arch based distributions (Manjaro for me) but the basics work for any Linux distro where Wine is available, including Macs running 10.14 or earlier (Wine does not work with 10.15 at the time of this writing). I present this process in two ways; a YouTube retroCombs Fast Load video and in the companion blog post below. First the video:

YouTube Video: retroCombs: FAST LOAD - Install DirMaster on Linux

In the video below, demonstrate how to install the DirMaster Windows application on Manjaro Linux:

Now that you’ve seen the video, if you want to try this yourself, step-by-step, read the companion blog instructions below.

Install Wine

The first step is to install the Wine software. “Wine is Not an Emulator” (Wine) is a windows compatibility layer that runs in Linux. Most modern and sophisticated applications/games have trouble running in Wine, however, DirMaster is not one of those complicated applications and is easy to install and runs perfectly under Wine.

Load Terminal.
Update the system:

sudo pacman -Syu and enter your admin password at the prompt.

Install the latest version of Wine and helpful extra packages:

sudo pacman -S wine wine-mono wine_gecko playonlinux

Choose option 1 if the message below appears:

 resolving dependencies...
 :: There are 2 providers available for netcat:
 :: Repository extra
    1) gnu-netcat
 :: Repository community
    2) openbsd-netcat

 Enter a number (default=1): 1

Choose option y when the message below appears:

 :: Proceed with installation? [Y/n]

Wine is installed. See how easy that was?

Download DirMaster

Before the Wine install, download the DirMaster Windows Installer file.

Visit the site below:

https://style64.org/dirmaster
Download the latest “zipped” version of DirMaster which was v3.1.5 at the time of this blog post.
Extract the file using your preferred method.

Install DirMaster in Wine

Launch the PlayOnLinux application.
Choose the Install option in the toolbar and the PlayOnLinux install menu dialog will appear. With this dialog, you can search for Windows applications to install; however, DirMaster is not one of them. This is why we downloaded the file previously.
Click the Install a non-listed program option in the lower left-hand corner. The PlayOnLinux Wizard dialog box appears. Scary text appears. Ignore it all.
Click the Next button. The Manual Installation dialog will appears.
Click the Next button. Another PlayOnLinux Wizard dialog box will appear.
Select the Install a program in a new virtual drive option.
Click the Next button. A dialog box appears asking for the name of the virtual drive.
Type Commodore in the text edit box. This can be anything, but Commodore just feels right.

TIP: You can use this virtual drive to install other reto-related Windows applications.
Click the Next button. A dialog box appears asking for additional options. We don’t need any of them.
Click the Next button. A dialog box appears asking for either a 32 or 64 bit Windows installation.
Select the 64 bits windows installation option.
Click the Next button. Wine will configure the virtual drive. This can take some time so be patient. Once complete, a Select the install file to run dialog box will appear.
Click the Browse button.
Navigate to the folder that contains the DirMasterSetup.exe file.
Select the DirMasterSetup.exe file.
Click the Open button. A verification dialog box appears.
Click the Next button.
The Wine Select Destination Location dialog box appears. Keep the default.
Click the Next button. The Select Start Menu Folder dialog box will appear. Keep the default.
Click the Next button. The Additional Shortcuts dialog box appears.
Select both the Create a desktop shortcut and the Install Windows Explorer Preview options.
Click the Next button. The Ready to Install dialog box will appear. Keep the default.

Did I mention all these dialog boxes and next buttons are why I left Windows behind years ago? I’m having some serious blue screen of death flashbacks!
Click the Install button. DirMaster will install.
Deselect the Launch DirMaster checkbox.
Select the Finish button.

Create a Shortcut

The application is installed, but it is a pain to load PlayOnLinux each time we want to run DirMaster. Let’s create a desktop shortcut to make it behave more like a native Linux application.

If it is not open, launch the PlayOnLinux application to see the window below:
Click DirMaster in the installed programs window to reveal additional options for the installed DirMaster application as shown in the window below:
Click the Create a shortcut option in the lower-left hand corner to display a confirmation window that a DirMaster application shortcut has been placed on the desktop and in the user’s home Desktop folder as shown in the image below:
Click Next to close the confirmation dialog box. Depending on your Linux windows manager, you may also find a bright shiny new icon in your application launcher.

HINT: With the desktop launcher, you are only a right-click and properties dialog box away from all the info you need to add this item to your application menu if it was not done automatically.

Launch DirMaster

With DirMaster installed in a virtual drive and a shortcut on your desktop, launching the application couldn’t be any easier.

Double click the DirMaster icon on the desktop to launch the application as shown in the image below:
Create or open a disk image to get started as shown in the image below:

TIP: If you’d like a disk image to play with, download my Plus/4 Users Manual disk image. It’s about half way down the page. Look for the retroCombs floppy disk.

What’s next?

Using DirMaster is not difficult; however, it does take time to learn all things you can do to manage your Commodore disk images. Style64’s provides official DirMaster documentation. This a great place to start. If there’s interest, you can let me know by dropping comments below. If enough of you ask, there may be a DirMaster retroCombs FAST LOAD or two in our future.

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 5 - Numbers and Calculations

2020-10-18T00:00:00+00:00

In this Commodore Plus/4 retroCombs episode, I cover chapter 5 of the Commodore Plus/4 user’s manual. In this chapter, Number and Calculation, I learn how to use the Plus/4 as a calculator in immediate mode, create a function, and learn more about working with numbers in Commodore BASIC 3.5. I even combine some things we learned in previous chapters to amp up our programs. It is a packed chapter and even though I’m no math teacher;Getting Started_ I, “begin to acquaint you with some of the characteristics and capabilities of the Plus/4, and how to take the first steps toward programming with your computer.” We spend more time learning how to use the keyboard, correcting mistakes, creating simple programs, and then I shope I do the concepts justice. This is one chapter where I find the User’s Manual a bit lacking but adequatew you how to use windows on the Plus/4. No, not the operating system, but another unique feature of the Plus/4’s BASIC.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

Series Information
Companion Disk Image
User’s Manual
YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4, Chapter 5 - Numbers and Calculations
Video Errata
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Key to Keys
Episode Errata
Introduction
Numbers and Basic Operations
Fractions and Decimals
Scientific Notation
Performing Calculations
Immediate (Direct) Mode
Order of Calculation
Using Variables
Mid Video Retro Break
Numeric Functions
Numbers and Other Functions
Final Thoughts
Join the Fun

Series Information

This episode is a small part of my larger Commodore Plus/4 series. You can read the entire series and view additional resources at:

</plus4>

Companion Disk Image

retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image - UPDATED AS OF: 2020-11-01

I use the following file name convention to make it easy to locate specific programs:

Sample Program Name: 02 RCOMBS SCROLL.PRG

02 - The chapter number
RCOMBS SCROLL - my self assigned name for the BASIC program which will be immediately identifiable if you follow along.

User’s Manual

Chapter 54 - Numbers and CalculationsGetting Started

Below are the links for previous chapters covered:

YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4, Chapter 5 - Numbers and Calculations

In the video below, I work through Chapter 5 of the user’s manual.

Video Errata

Robin, from 8-Bit Show and Tell points out:

I'm enjoying this! At about 14:30 you mention how integer variables are truncated if assigned a float - this is correct, but then you say that 12.75 would be rounded to 13; it would actually be truncated to 12. Even 12.99999 would be truncated to 12 if assigned to an integer variable. If you want rounding, you'd need to do something like A% = 12.75 + 0.5. The INT() function isn't needed, but may improve readability.

Thanks for the catch and correction, Robin!

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video.

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual Series
TEDuino - A TED Series inspired Datasette powered by Tapuino
[The Tapuino Project](/tap](/teduino-1)

Key to Keys

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations as shown in the table below:

Key	Description	Key	Description
`⇪`	Caps Lock	`F1`	Function 1
`C=`	Commodore	`F2`	Function 2
`⌃`	Control	`F3`	Function 3
`⎋`	Escape	`F4`	Function 4
`⌂`	Home	`F5`	Function 5
`⌫`	Insert Delete	`F6`	Function 6
`⏎`	Return	`F7`	Function 7
`RS`	Run/Stop	`F8`	Help
`⇧`	Shift	`␣`	Space

Episode Errata

No feedback from previous episode. I must have gotten most things correct!

Introduction

Thanks to all my viewers for the feedback.
.d81 disk image is now available here.link).
Proud of the companion website for this episode. Check it out!
Don’t forget to subscribe to the channel!

I’m going to feel a bit like a math teacher in this episode! But an easy one. No homework.

Numbers and Basic Operations

We’ll talk about mathematical operators, but relational operators should appear when get deeper into programming. Operators are shown in the image below:

Fractions and Decimals

Fractions are not native to the Commodore Basic 3.5. A fraction such as 1/2 is converted to decimal form (.5). The Plus/4 will never display a result in fraction format.
Pi, or π, is a key on the Plus/4 keyboard (which is unique since most keyboards today don’t have this key). Press it to represent the value of π in a calculation.

Scientific Notation

Numbers larger than nine digits are represented using scientific notation. Here are some examples:
```
 20 = 2E+1
 10500 = 1.05E+5
 .0666 = 6.66E-2
```

Performing Calculations

We can use a PRINT command in a BASIC program to perform calculations as shown in the example below:
```
 10 ? 1+2,2-1
 20 ? 2*2,4/2
```
You can print both a calculation, the result of a calculation, or the calculation and the result in a line of BASIC code as shown below:
```
 10 ? "2001/2010"
 20 ? 2*3
 30 ? "2*3+1=";2*3+1
```

Immediate (Direct) Mode

Immediate mode allows us to use the Plus/4 like a calculator without creating a BASIC program and using the RUN command. Enter the calculation on a new line preceded by the PRINT command or the ? character. Below are a few examples:

TIP: ? = PRINT in Commodore BASIC)
```
 ? 3-6 ⏎
 -3
 ? 24/(6+2) ⏎
  3
```
Let’s combine what we’ve learned to use immediate mode to display a calculation and a result. Type the line below on an empty line:
```
 ? "2 TO THE 3RD POWER EQUALS";2↑3 ⏎
```

Order of Calculation

Commodore Basic 3.5 uses the mathematical concept of order of operations. In the example below, 50/5 is performed first with 200 added after the result:
```
 ? 200+50/5
```
Below is a short summary of precedence of operators:
- FIRST: Negative numbers identified
- SECOND: Solve exponents
- THIRD: Solve multiplication and division
- FOURTH: Solve addition and subtraction
To modify the precedence of operators, surround the values between ( and ) as shown in the example below. The operation A/3 will complete, followed by 12 + the value of A/3, and then that result multiplied by 36.
```
 ? 36*(12+(A/3))
```

Using Variables

Variable are an important concept to both algebra and programming.
A variable is a placeholder for a value.
There are three types of variables in Commodore BASIC as shown in the table below:

TYPE	SYMBOL	DESCRIPTION	EXAMPLES	SAMPLE VALUES
Floating Point	n/a	Real (Decimal) or Whole Numbers	X, AB, T4	23.5, 12, 1.3E+2
Integer	%	Whole Numbers	X%, AI%	15, 102, 3
Text String	$	Letters, Numbers, Characters	X$, MS$	“TOTAL:” , “DAY 1”, “CBM”won’t spend time on relational operators. They should appear again in a programming chapter.

Mid Video Retro Break

Be sure to LIKE each video and SUBSCRIBE to the channel! The community is slowly growing.

Numeric Functions

Commodore BASIC 3.5 includes numeric functions such as the trigonometric SIN function. A listing can be found on page 151 along with all other Commodore BASIC commands.
A function uses the format: FUNCTION(X) where function equals a specific function (such as SIN) and the X between the ( and ) is a specific value the function will act upon.
Below is a sample program that uses the SQR(X) function, or Square Root of a number to print the square root of 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5:
```
 10 FOR X=1TO5
 20 ?"THE SQUARE ROOT OF";X;"IS";SQR(X)
 30 NEXT X
```
💾 On Disk: 05 SQUARE ROOT

Numbers and Other Functions

Random numbers are important for simulation and game software.
Commodore Basic includes a RND(X) function to produce random numbers within a range of values.
Below is a sample program that will print five random values.
```
 10 FOR X = 1 TO 5 : ? RND(X): NEXT X
```
TIP: The line of code above could have been three different lines; however, we use a : to place three lines of code on a single line. This can reduce memory usage for longer programs.
The program above creates five unique random numbers, but what if we want random numbers between 1 and 5? We will need to use the INT(X) function as well as setting a range (5) and lower limit (+1) as shown in the program below:
```
 10 FOR X = 1 TO 5
 20 ? INT(5*RND(1))+1 : REM 5 IS THE RANGE & +1 IS THE     LOWER LIMIT
 30 NEXT X
```
💾 On Disk: 05 RANDOM 1-5
It is also possible to create your own unique function to use throughout a program. If the function is used regularly in a program, this can save memory and speed of operation. Below is an example of a program below that will alternate a line of text on the screen various colors:
```
 10 DEF FNR(X)=INT(X*RND(1))+1
 20 DO
 30 COLOR 1,FNR(16),5 : REM PICK A COLOR FROM 1 TO 16
 40 ? "THE SEARCH GOES ON..."
 50 LOOP
```
💾 On Disk: 05 FUNCTION

HINT: The DO/LOOP commands create an infinite loop. Press RS to stop the program.

Final Thoughts

This chapter provides the cursory basics of number and calculations. I recommend you check out more functions on page 151 in the user’s manual. Of particular interest is that most of the examples I provide can be accomplished using the Python interpreter on a modern computer. On that note, the concepts used here will help anyone who wants to learn program BASICs (pun intended).ic Functions

Join the Fun

Thanks for watching and if you are so inclined, please let other Commodore fans know about the series by sharing these videos using #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE: Chromecast with Google TV (and the Google TV Android app)

2020-10-11T00:00:00+00:00

During Google’s 2020 “Launch Night In” event, the Chromecast with Google TV was announced. Not a surprise, not much is anymore; however, even when the whispers of this device echoed in the halls of the Internet, I was intrigued. Prior to this purchase of this device, I owned the two following Android TV devices:

I enjoy both Android TV devices and use them along with two Roku devices and an Apple TV. I’ve always considered Android TV to be just a step below both Apple TV and Roku for several combined reasons including:

User interface complexity
Content discoverability
Channel/App selection
Cost

Would the new Chromecast with Google TV change my mind? Let’s find out after we watch my lunchtime OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE video posted to my YouTube Channel the evening after the device’s arrival.

YouTube Video: OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE: Chromecast with Google TV (and the Google TV Android app

Watch the video below and then read on for my additional thoughts on this device. In the video, you will see me open the box, connect, fire up, and use the device for the first time. I also take a look at the new Google TV app that works along side the Chromecast with Google TV.

Final Thoughts

I’ve used this device for two days. As with most of my reviews, here’s the list of things that strikes me:

User Interface: I love the new interface. I’m hopeful this new interface will come to my mi Box and nVidia Shield; however, I tend to think that Google is going to keep this user interface to themselves to sell more hardware. Time will tell.
Performance: The Chromecast with Google TV is fast and responsive. It is amazing how much tech we can cram it to small form factors these days.
Remote: As I state in the video, I really like the remote and much more than the remotes provided with either the mi Box or the nVidia Shield. It sits in the hand nicely, doesn’t feel cheap and looks great. It’s a bit slippery, so be careful. I wish you could modify the Netflix button to another application but in all actuality, not sure I ever would. We use this service too much. HINT: A search online will reveal a hack that allows a Netflix button reconfiguration. That was fast!
Content Discovery: One word, amazing! So much better than any other device I own. This is the power of Google built-in with the Assistant.
Live guide: Needs work. While I appreciate it includes YouTube TV, it should also include Xumo and Pluto TV with the ability to modify the lineup to get rid of those pesky channels I have not interest in watching.
Chromecast Design: I’m still torn on the puck design. It’s okay. But then again, who cares? You don’t see it when it’s hanging off an HDMI port on the back of the television.
Updates: I’m anxious to see how frequently Google TV receives updates. Android TV and Roku seem to get two or three updates a year. If Google follows their Chrome OS and Android pattern, we could see monthly updates pushed to add features, correct bugs, and ensure security.
Groups: I like that I can add to my Chromecast to a music group in the home. Currently, it works when you stream to it; however, I can’t get the content from the Chromecast to stream to other devices. I’ve also had the Chromecast get out of sync with other audio in the home. I’m sure that’s just a glitch that will get worked out in future updates.
Multi-tasking: Unlike Android TV, multi-tasking is non-existent in Google TV. That’s a shame, because it is not possible to jump back to a previous app easily.
Google TV Application (Android): The new application is a step up from Google Play Movies and TV which always had an awkward name and user interface. This new app more closely mimics and syncs with the Google TV. I like when on the go I can search for content, add it to my watch list, and then find it waiting when I arrive home. Perfect for those times when someone makes a recommendation and you don’t want to forget it.

Have Questions?

Drop your questions about the Chromecast below or in the comments section at YouTube. Happy to provide answers and read your thoughts.

Pixel Power Podcast

If you like this video and describe yourself as a Google Fanboy (person/girl/etc.), be sure to check out my podcast, the Pixel Power Podcast. Monthly (sometimes more often), I focus on a topic that allows you to get the most out of your Pixel and Google powered devices such as Android, Chrome OS, Google Assistant, and Google Workspace (formerly G-Suite) with an emphasis on Pixel devices such as the Pixel phone, Pixelbook, Pixel Slate, Pixel Buds, and other Google Assistant powered devices like this new Chromecast with Google TV. Check out the podcast and be sure to follow the podcast on Twitter.

TEDuino: An Arduino based TED (264) Series Commodore Datasette

2020-10-04T00:00:00+00:00

As part of my Commodore Plus/4 series, chapter three of the user’s manual includes a section on using a Commodore Datasette and a 1541 Diskette Drive. In a previous post, I assembled the modern replacement for the Datasettdisk drivepi1541); now it’s time to build a complete Datasette replacement called, the TEDuino.

“What’s a TEDuino,” you ask? It’s an Arduino-based replacement for the Commodore Datasette with a Plus/4 industrial design inspired case.

For this project I use an Arduino, in this case the inexpensive Arduino Nano version, along with easy to source electronic components, and a 3D printer to create a Commodore 264 series inspired Datasette replacement I call, the TEDuino.

The TEDuino is powered by the Tapuino project. You can learn all about the Tapuino on the Sweetlilmre’s 1337 beef: Building the Tapuino R2 blog post.

After building the Tapuino and using it with my Commodore Plus/4, I felt it should have a proper case with Plus/4 design aesthetics. I grabbed my sketch pad and began brainstorming (see video). You can learn all about the Tapuino on the Sweetlilmre’s 1337 beef: Building the Tapuino R2 blog post.

NOTE: While this post focuses on the Tapuino for a Commodore Plus/4, this build works with a C16 or other 264 series Commodore computers. If you want to use the TEDuino with a VIC-20, C64, or C128, replace the 7 pin DIN connector with this C2N Power Adapter that allows you to tap power from those computers for other projects.

This post and the companion video includes the updates to build materials, layout, imagery, parts sourcing, and processes used to create the case and build the Tapuino system for the TEDuino. Before you read this blog post, watch the video below where I share a reveal of my TEDuino case design. Before you read this blog post, watch the video below. It shares my build process and first use of the Tapuino.

YouTube Video

Title: An Arduino based replacement for a Commodore Plus/4 Datasette, the TEDuino

In the video below, I breadboard and operate a Tapuino connected to a Commodore Plus/4:

Let’s start the project by listing all the materials necessary.

Bill of Materials

The list below includes everything you need and the most inexpensive/convenient way to source them.

Below is my list of materials (using Amazon Affiliate links):

1 - Arduino Nano V3 - This is the second Nano I use in the video and not the first!
1 - 16x2 LCD with I2C backpack - The Tapuino can use other displays, but these are the most cost effective.
1 - SD Card module with built-in level conversion - This unit differs from the one Sweetlilmre specifies.
1 - ElectroCookie Prototype PCB Solderable Breadboard for Arduino and DIY Electronics Projects, Gold-Plated (5 Pack + 1 Mini Board, Matte Black) - You get five; in case you make a mistake!
1 - 430 Ohm resistor - If you want to try this project and don’t have this resistor, for the cost of a SASE, I’ll send you one.
1 - Breadboard - One that works.
4 - Momentary Switches with Color Caps - I didn’t use the color caps.
1 - 4n25 Optocoupler - Same as resistor notes.
1 - Spool of solid core breadboard wire: Multicolor will assist in wire tracking.
1 - Spool of soldering iIron - In case you are low.
1 - 7 Pin DIN plug connector - Plan accordingly if you live in the U.S. because these take a while get across the pond.
1 - Spool FilaCube PLA filament (Coffee/Chocolate)
1 - Creality Ender 3 3D Printer

Makers or electronic hobbyist will have many of these items. When I made similar purchases for my original Tapuino project, I had duplicate items. I think I even have enough parts to build one more of these.

Tools

Wire Stripper - Love these and it makes a good clean strip.
Soldering Iron/Station - This is the inexpensive station that I recommend.
Rosen Core Solder wire - In case you are running low.

Designing the TEDuino

The most iconic design of the Commodore Plus/4 (and the C116) are the fins on the back of the computer, as shown in the image below:

It was important for me to include those along with faux vents that add interest to the design as shown in the image below:

Originally, the TEDuino sat flat on the table; however, during design it became apparent that the unit should sit at an angle to meet the profile of the Plus/4 and to allow a better view of the LCD screen as shown in the image below:

I’d like to think I added nice touches to the design such as the cable management system, the electronics holder, and the button design which is based, in part, on the keys from the original Commodore Datasette and uses arrows similar to the cursor keys on the Plus/4 as shown in the images below:

I was pleased how all the components fit or snapped together. I learned much about 3D printing; such as leaving a gap of .125mm between parts. That was the spot on my Creality Ender 3 using normal resolution and the Cura slicer software. That distance will change based on use case but for standard parts, such as the case fitting over the electronics holder, it is a good start point.

STL Files

STL files are posted to my Thingaverse account page. Click here for a direct link to the project.

Fritzing Time

Below is my original Fritzing for the Tapuino. The first goal of the TEDuino project was to transfer these components to a solderable breadboard and then design a case that would contain these components:

Download my Fritzing File

I’m glad I created a Fritzing diagram with the earlier project. It improved my familiarity with the project and informed me during the layout of the components for## Designing the TEDduino.

Preparing and Uploading Software

Once the TapEDuino electronic system is built, it’s a simple matter to download and install the software. In my video, you will note that I installed the software before assembling.

Download the zip archive - you can download directly to a microSD if you want to save a step later; however, I always download to my computer first, make any changes, and then keep a local copy in case I run into problems.
Extract the file - the archive includes several files. You need them all!
Rename the extracted folder; Tapuino - This is required or the tapuino.ino file won’t be able to find and upload the support files.
Rename, or copy, the config-user.h.example configuration file to config-user.h.

Modify the configuration file to match the hardware and language. Below is my file:

 //*****************************************/
 // User selectable configuration settings
 //
 /******************************************/

 /******************************************/
 // LCD Definitions
 /******************************************/

 // uncomment one of these sets for your specific LCD
 #define LCD_USE_1602_LCD_MODULE
 #define LCD_I2C_ADDR 0x27 // I2C address for the LCD
 // #define LCD_USE_SSD1306_OLED_MODULE
 // #define LCD_I2C_ADDR 0x3C // I2C address for the OLED
 // #define LCD_SSD1306_BIG_FONTS // define this for ... bigger fonts...

 // choose one of these depending on your display
 // #define LCD_SSD1306_128x64
 // #define LCD_SSD1306_128x32
 // #define LCD_USE_SSD131X_OLED_MODULE
 // #define LCD_I2C_ADDR 0x3C // I2C address for the OLED

 /********************************************/
 // Language Definitions
 /********************************************/
 // uncomment one of these for your language
 #define TAPUINO_LANGUAGE_EN
 // #define TAPUINO_LANGUAGE_IT
 // #define TAPUINO_LANGUAGE_TR
 // #define TAPUINO_LANGUAGE_ES
 // #define TAPUINO_LANGUAGE_DE

Start the Arduino IDE - I use Linux but this process should be similar on other platforms.
Navigate into the tapuino folder and load the tapuino.ino file - the Arduino IDE will load all associated project files.
In the Tools menu, select Arduino Nano and the correct serial port - this is done in the Board and Ports menu items.

Once done, it is a simple matter of connecting the Arduino to your PC and clicking on the Upload (→) button in the toolbar.

Prepare the microSD Card

You will need the smallest microSD card you can find. I had a 32Gb card and this is overkill! If you can find a 1, 2, 4, or 8Gb that be a better use but those sizes are harder to find.

Format the card as FAT32 and place directories on the microSD. Keep directory names 16 characters or less. I have a games folder with three .tap files with long names. The Tapuino will scroll longer file and folder names.

UPDATE 2020-07-22: The animated .gif below is a short “copying .tap files to the microSD card” demonstration:

When you save a file from a Commodore computer using the SAVE command, the Tapuino will create its own recordings folder. You cannot delete these files using a Commodore computer. You will need to remove the microSD and perform that function on a modern computer.

Finding .tap Files

I recommend you check out Plus4world’s tape index. I imagine any program released on cassette is archived but be careful; you have to select the right video version (PAL or NTSC). PAL specific programs will not work on an NTSC computer and vice-versa. If you own an NTSC Plus/4, like I do, you will find that you can’t enjoy the majority of Plus/4 games. Many titles were PAL since the computer was more popular in Europe.

Once the microSD is prepared, ensure the Tapuino power is off and place the microSD into the card reader. You can now turn on power to the Plus/4. The Plus/4 will provide power for the Tapuino.

The TEDuino includes four white front buttons used to navigate the Tapuino interface. The button functions are as shown in the table below:

Button	Usage
→	Select
←	Abort/Back
↓	Down
↑	Up

To display the contents of a directory, navigate to the directory name on the Tapuino display and push button 1 (Select). If you need to stop a program from saving or loading, push button 2 (Abort). The navigation is intuitive after a few uses.

NOTE: There is one menu item on the Tapuino you must select in order to use with a TED series Commodore computer. Select Options / Machine / C16. This configures the Tapuino to act as a 1531 Datasette. I do not understand what this option does to make the Tapuino operate differently. If anyone knows, please drop a comment below.

Final Thoughts and What’s Next

This project was a blast! I’m not sure how often I will use the TEDuino since the Pi1541 is faster, but if there is a random .tap file out there, at least I know I can load it. For pure nostalgia though, this is as close as you can get to a Datasette and much more reliable than cassette tapes. The only thing that would make it better was if the Tapuino software allowed connection of a small speaker and the hum from an original Datasette.

As I mention in the video, I’m not done with this project. There are a few more things I plan to add:

A custom, and colorful, logo plate
A 1980s style magazine advertisement
Non-slip feet on base
Explore a professionally printed 3D case (let me know if you know an inexpensive way to source one)

I will continue to document this projects on this website and on the YouTube channel.

MORE PHOTOS!

Need more pics? Check out my TEDuino Google Photos album.

Conclusion

I hope you enjoyed this reveal of the TEDuino. If you have questions, please post them below.

References

Huge thanks to Sweetlilmre for the original instructions. This would not have been possible with our their amazing original work. I hope I have added something to the build instructions that makes this project even easier for someone else.

Here’s the list of references:

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE: VictSing Wireless (USB and Bluetooth) Mouse

2020-09-19T00:00:00+00:00

My trusty 2010 Microsoft Bluetooth Notebook Mouse 5000 gave up the electronic ghost this past week. Over time, the device became less trustworthy. Is ten years the life span of an electronic rodent? Not sure, but the mouse served me well until recently when the cursor began to lag and the connection to my Mac mini would drop.

Additionally, the Microsoft notebook mouse has always been small and my goal for a new mouse was to be better fit my hand. Selecting a Logitech or another Microsoft mouse would generally be my goto options; however, like web cams during COVID-19, there’s a hefty markup on premium brands. After some research, I decided to try an off-brand called VictSing and purchase their VictSing Wireless Mouse (#ad).

I choose the mouse because of the features below:

Larger form factor
Rubberized thumb rest
Six total buttons
Two scroll wheels (a regular vertical scroll wheel on top and a thumb wheel for horizontal scrolling)
Ability to pair up to three devices (two Bluetooth and one USB)
Includes USB 2.4Ghz dongle (to allow the mouse to be used with any computer)
4.5 ⭐ reviewed on Amazon
Under $40.

Seemed like a good deal financially and just what I was looking for with respect to hardware and features. Let’s find out what’s in the box, how easy it was to use, and a few final thoughts.

YouTube Video: OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE: VictSing Wireless (USB and Bluetooth) Mouse

Watch the video below and then read on for my additional thoughts on this device.

Links Mentioned

Below are the links I mention in the video:

Final Thoughts

My final thoughts are always a numbered list. Here’s the list for this device:

For fun, I paired the mouse with my Pixel 4XL. It worked flawlessly and it was a hoot controlling the tiny cursor. The vertical scroll wheel worked as did the horizontal scroll wheel; although that wheel was a bit sporadic.
Lag on my Mac mini, as described in the video, cleared up after I removed the old Bluetooth mouse connection. It was better, but not perfect. Still some research to do to determine what is interfering with the connection. It works, just an occasional annoyance. I remove the pairing to the Mac’s trackpad; however, that would take away some of my workflow. That’s not a long term solution.
No lag on my Linux (running Elementary OS) or Chrome OS (Pixelbook and Pixel Slate) devices.
I enjoy the larger form-factor mouse and the rubberized thumb-rest. Mousing is more comfortable than ever before.
Buttons are quiet but tactile and the scroll wheels are smooth.
I keep forgetting about the horizontal scroll wheel and revert back to my hold habits. I will need to work this motion into my thumb’s muscle memory!
I wish the horizontal scroll wheel was move toward the front of the me mouse about one inch. The current placement means I have to back up my thumb to scroll and feels awkward and cramped.

That’s it for now. I do update and timestamp posts when modifications and additions are made, so feel free to check back later and make sure you add this site to your RSS feeds.

Have Questions?

Drop your questions about the mouse below or in the comments section at YouTube. Happy to provide answers.

REVIEW: Lenovo YOGA TAB with Google Assistant

2020-09-02T00:00:00+00:00

I posted an “open-the-box” video for the Lenovo Yoga Smart Tab with Google Assistant on my YouTube channel. After the video, several called me out for not providing a review of this Android tablet. Below is the video. After you watch, continue on for my review of the Lenovo Yoga Smart Tab.

YouTube Video: OPEN THE BOX: Lenovo YOGA Smart TAB with Google Assistant

In the video below, I open as a box on a Lenovo Yoga Tab with Google Assistant:

Specifications

Before I share my thoughts about the Lenovo Yoga Smart Tab with Google Assistant (whew!), let’s find out what makes this thing tick and along the way, I’ll share why it the things to like/dislike about this tablet.

Need a case for this device? I like the $12 Moko case below:

# MoKo Case Fit Lenovo Yoga Smart Tab 10.1 (YT-X705F), Ultra Compact Protection Premium Slim Folding Stand Cover Case for Lenovo Yoga Smart Tab 10.1 (YT-X705F) Tablet (#aAd)

Device

The design, while reminiscent of a tablet, is unique because of the two small, but powerful speakers built into the tablet. We’ll talk more about the speakers later. The tablet looks like a book with a spine that hosts two loud speakers. A built-in metal plate on the back serves as either a stand or hanger. I’ve never thought about hanging a tablet, but it is a useful feature.

System

Android 9, affectionately know as Pie, is the OS for this device. I’ve had enough Pie and there’s no way to upgrade to Android 10 or 11. This limits device features, such as swipe gestures, dark mode integration, and updated share sheets. It’s not a deal breaker, but come-on, Lenovo. You kill the user’s tablet longevity. They eventually released an upgrade to Android 10.

CPU

Let’s talk about hardware. The Lenovo is powered by the now three-year-old (as of this writing) Qualcomm Snapdragon 439 64 bit, 2 Ghz, octo-core/thread processor. You would think with all that giga, octo, and thread count, this would be a monster processor; however, online descriptions tout this chip as a “lower mainstream system on a chip (SOC).” Don’t expect amazing performance but “just enough.” The chip is fine for this device and normal user interface operations are smooth. App launching is tidy and multitasking is seamless. More on this as we talk about memory.

![CPU](/images/posts/lenovo/cpu.jpg

GPU

Graphics are the work of the built-in Adreno 505. This GPU is three years-old and not what you would call a pixel pusher. It’s fine, but not great. 2D display and minimal poly-count games are smooth, but try a modern 3D shooter and you will need to lower rendering requirements for any decent frame rate. I’m not a hardcore gamer and 3D gaming is not a feature I need on a tablet. On occasion, I will watch video on the device (since it has this amazing sound system) and this chip spits out 1080p video at 30 fps without hesitation. Not fabulous, but it gets the job done.

Memory

Many low end tablets stick you with 2 Gb of onboard RAM. Thankfully, Lenovo added two additional gigabytes (for a total of 4 Gb) that helps the tablet perform admirably. I’ve never felt the tablet drag.

Internal storage comes from a suitable, but not massive, 64 Gb eMMC Flash Drive. About 50 Gb is available to the user. Add more storage (but no offloading of apps) using the microSD card expansion under the built-in stand (see video above). 64 Gb is plenty for my use, but you might need more if you want to carry around a bunch of video with you or play a lot of games, but remember that games gotcha!

Battery

Battery life is good. My primary use for this tablet is reading and video. I get ≈10+ hours out of the Li-Po battery.

It does not support fast charging on the USB-C port. A full charge takes several hours. Instead, it uses trickle charge, which is easier on the tablet’s battery when the device in ambient mode. That may be true, but it sure would be nice to have the option to fast-charge.

Display

Technically, the display is HD, but it is a few pixels short at 1920 x 1200, versus 1920 x 1280; however, it is a beautiful 10” IPS LCD screen with a 60 Hz refresh rate. It does not support HDR but colors are bright and blacks are dark. There has not been an environmental situation that has caused me issues with the screen. I don’t use the tablet outside and can’t speak to using this device outdoors.

Camera

Camera quality is good but not what you would expect from a modern phone. Using a tablet to take pictures, to me, is goofy and cumbersome. The front camera is “good enough” for a Zoom or Teams meeting.

Sensors

Holy tricorder, Mr. Spock (how about that mash up of two 60’s pop culture references?). This thing has 28 sensors that cover both internal and external environmental variables. Why it has a step sensor is beyond me. You will not strap this thing on your back and go for a hike. My guess; it’s a leftover remnant from the mobile processor which explains why the Android OS on tablets is mess. On the plus side, this thing includes the sensors necessary to make light gaming a pleasure.

Ports

The tablet includes both earphones and USB-C ports. The headphone port works as expected. The USB-C port provides all I/O features and charging. Nothing more to see here.

What’s to like

Let’s sum it all up and talk about what I like about this tablet.

Form factor is what I was looking for in a tablet.
You can grab this thing for around $200. Now that may seem like a lot of money when you compare with a Kindle Fire; however, with the Lenovo, you get the full Google Play Store experience, Home Hub features, and the Google Assistant.
The tablet sound this good. Kick on Dolby and those two tiny speakers belt out the sound. Great for watching your favorite online video or YouTube music video.
I like how the speakers create a faux spine for this tablet, making it feel like I’m holding a book when reading.
I like the built-in stand. You need it for ambient mode; however, it comes in handy to set the tablet up on a desk or table to read email, watch movies, or pair a keyboard and use the tablet like a PC.
I’m pleased with the on-screen keyboard. The haptic feedback makes typing on this device more intuitive than an iPad.
Here’s a plus! The tablet includes face recognition to unlock.
It includes an FM radio! Yes, and old-fashioned, tune the dial, FM radio. A set of headphones serves as the antenna. It is fun to listen to terrestrial radio.

What’s a not to like

There’s a lot to like, but is has drawbacks.

No Android upgrades. Android 9 far as she goes. What a waste. While security updates continue about every quarter, it sure would be nice to move to 10 or 11. The tablet can handle the upgrade, why not provide them?
Don’t purchase this tablet if you are into hardcore gaming. You will not like the experience. Casual gaming is great though.
No fast charging; however, see my notes above and in reality, it’s not that big a deal.
If you want a tablet that’s flat, like 15th century earth, this form factor ain’t it.
Not all Android apps are optimized for tablets. Many don’t rotate or scale properly and several don’t work period. This is where Apple has a leg up on Android. Apple’s curated tablet store ensures excellent app quality whether on phone or tablet. I think we will soon see Chrome OS as the predominant tablet OS. Heck, I’m writing this blog post on the ultimate Chrome OS tablet, a Pixel Slate.
Skip the built-in Lenovo Launcher and use a third party. I like the Rootless Launcher. It doesn’t pack a bunch of features, but does a great job mimicking the Pixel Launcher which keeps things consistent across my tablet and my Pixel phones.

Final Thoughts

The Lenovo is a 2019 product and is showing its age in 2020. This will be my last Android tablet. I plan to use the device for the rest of the year, but can see myself upgrading to another device, say a Chrome OS tablet like a second generation Lenovo Duet in 2021. {UPDATE 2021-07-02: I purchased and 2020 iPad Air to replace this tablet and love it!}

While I like Android as a phone OS, I can’t get over the limitations of Android on a tablet and as Google continues to build in Android and Google Play features into Chrome OS, a $300 device like the Lenovo Duet makes more sense with its keyboard.

If you can find this tablet on sale for less than $200, grab it. If you understand the limitations I share, I think you will have a pleasurable experience and like this device.

There; I’ve lived up to my video promise and provided a full review. I hope readers and YouTube watchers find this review helpful. If there’s something I missed, drop a comment below and let me know.

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 4 - Getting Started

2020-08-30T00:00:00+00:00

In this Commodore Plus/4 retroCombs episode, I cover chapter 4 of the Commodore Plus/4 user’s manual. In this chapter, Getting Started I, “begin to acquaint you with some of the characteristics and capabilities of the Plus/4, and how to take the first steps toward programming with your computer.” We spend more time learning how to use the keyboard, correcting mistakes, creating simple programs, and then I show you how to use windows on the Plus/4. No, not the operating system, but another unique feature of the Plus/4’s BASIC.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

Series Information
Companion Disk Image (In Progress)
User’s Manual
YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4 User’s Guide, Chapter 4 - Getting Started
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Key to Keys
Episode Errata
Introduction
Keyboard Colors
BONUS TOPIC: Clear the Screen
Color and Reverse Printing
Some Simple Programs
Correcting Typing Mistakes
Introduction to the Plus/4 Text Screen
More about PRINTing on the Screen
Screen Windows
Random Thoughts
Join the Fun

Series Information

This episode is a small part of my larger Commodore Plus/4 series. You can read the entire series and view additional resources at:

</plus4>

Companion Disk Image

As I progress through the user’s manual, I enter and execute sample programs. The link below is to a .d81 image that contains every program from each episode. Currently, the image is not complete since we still have several chapters to go.

retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image - UPDATED AS OF: 2020-11-01

I use the following file name convention to make it easy to locate specific programs:

Sample Program Name: 02 RCOMBS SCROLL.PRG

02 - The chapter number
RCOMBS SCROLL - my self assigned name for the BASIC program which will be immediately identifiable if you follow along.

User’s Manual

Chapter 4 - Getting Started

Below are the links for previous chapters covered:

YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4 User’s Guide, Chapter 4 - Getting Started

In the video below, I work through Chapter 4 of the user’s manual.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video.

Key to Keys

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations as shown in the table below:

Key	Description	Key	Description
`⇪`	Caps Lock	`F1`	Function 1
`[C=]`	Commodore	`F2`	Function 2
`⌃`	Control	`F3`	Function 3
`⎋`	Escape	`F4`	Function 4
`⌂`	Clear/Home	`F5`	Function 5
`⌫`	Insert Delete	`F6`	Function 6
`⏎`	Return	`F7`	Function 7
`[R/S]`	Run/Stop	`F8`	Help
`⇧`	Shift	`␣`	Space
`↑`	Cursor Up	`↓`	Cursor Down
`→`	Cursor Right	`←`	Cursor Left

Episode Errata

THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE FEEDBACK!!! It makes this project more fun and I’m (re)learning much. I will add video corrections or additions below.

In the video I suggested that I could use the COLOR command to change the background color, set a screen window and then change the background color again to only affect the screen window area. I was not able to get this to work. The COLOR changes the entire background, even the area outside of the screen window. Screen windows continue to bewilder me.
[2021-03-21] Viewer, Ducan Woodward, started a great discussion about how to use Screen Windows using BASIC. This led me to include an example that should have been in the user’s manual. Be sure to check out Duncan’s discussion that sparked it all in the comments section for the video.

Introduction

Thanks to viewers for feedback.
.d81 disk will update as we go.
Proud of the companion website for this episode. Check it out!
When viewing the YouTube video, don’t forget to subscribe to the channel!

Keyboard Colors

Changes to keyboard character colors are simple on the Plus/4 (and other Commodore computers for that matter). Hold down either the ⌃ or C= modifier key followed by one of the numbers below:

Number	Modifier `⌃`	Modifier `C=`
`1`	Black	Orange
`2`	White	Brown
`3`	Red	Yellow-Green
`4`	Cyan	Pink
`5`	Purple	Blue-Green
`6`	Green	Light Blue
`7`	Blue	Dark Blue
`8`	Yellow	Light Green

Once a color is selected, type away!

BONUS TOPIC: Clear the Screen

Before reversing and printing characters in color, clear the screen. There are two ways to do this on the Plus/4:

SCNCLR command - Clears screen and displays READY prompt.
F4 (SCNCLR command) - Same results as number 1.
⇧ + CH (Clear/Home) - Clears screen and moves cursor to top left-hand corner (no prompt).

Color and Reverse Printing

They keys below toggle reverse characters:

^ + 9 (Rvs On)
^ + 0 (Rvs Off)

Turn reverse on and type characters.

TUTORIAL:

⇧ + CH to clear the screen.
^ + 9 (Rvs On).
␣ four times to draw a thick black line.
^ + 3 to change the character color to red.
␣ four times to draw a thick red line.
C= + 4 to change the character color to pink.
␣ four times to draw a thick pink line.
^ + 1 to change the character color to black.
Type RETRO.
^ + 0 (Rvs Off).
Type COMBS.

The keystrokes result in the following:

▇▇▇▇▇▇▇▇▇▇▇▇RETROCOMBS

You can draw on the screen, but you cannot save the characters or include them in a basic program. Let’s integrate these codes into a BASIC program statement:

F4 - clear the screen with a READY prompt
Type PRINT " - remember the second video where I said, “what’s going on?” After the quotation mark, the Plus/4 enters QUOTE mode where some keys work differently. For instance, pressing a cursor key will input a symbol, not move the cursor key. When the program is executed, the cursor will then move. More on this later.
Finish the line as shown below:

? "{RVS ON}COMMODRE{RVS OFF} PLUS/4"

Note my use of the { and } characters above to specify the keys. You do not type these brackets and you substitute the command for the keystrokes. In this example ^ + 9 and ^ + 0 respectively. I will use this convention going forward since there are not modern keyboard equivalents.

The keystrokes result in the following:

COMMODORE PLUS/4

Even though we typed a line of BASIC code, that code is not saved because it is not prefaced with a line number. More on this later, but if you use the command LIST you will notice that the line is not stored in the Plus/4’s memory.

Now try the same thing using the flash feature:

F4 - clear the screen with a READY prompt
Type the line below:

? "{FLASH ON}COMMODRE{FLASH OFF} PLUS/4"

The keystrokes result in the following:

COMMODORE PLUS/4

If you the word COMMODORE is not blinking, your browser does not (and should not) support this feature!

Some Simple Programs

All right! Time to program. Clear the screen and type in the following BASIC program:

10 ? "PLUS/4"
20 GOTO 10

💾 On Disk: 04 PLUS4

Notice the line numbers at the beginning of each line? Those lines of code are now saved. Type LIST and the Plus/4 will “list” the program lines.

Type RUN and the Plus/4 will execute the BASIC program. “JANE! STOP THIS CRAZY THING!” is probably what you are thinking. The Plus/4 continues to print the “PLUS/4” characters continuously. It seems any key you typed won’t stop it, except for the RS {Run Stop} key. Tap it to stop the program.

Let’s try another program. We could type the command NEW but there is a one line of code, line 10, that we don’t need to retype. Let’s just replace line 20. At the READY prompt, type the line of code below:

20 COLOR 0,12

LIST the program again and you will have the program below in memory:

10 ? "PLUS/4"
20 COLOR 0,12

💾 On Disk: 04 PINK BGRND

RUN to program. The program prints “PLUS/4” once since there is no loop command (GOTO 10) and the background color changes to pink. We’ll cover the COLOR command in detail later in chapter 7 (page 77), but 0 specifies that the background color will change and 12 specifies the color to use. Can you guess which number will turn the background color back to white? HINT: see my keyboard number color list? What about light-blue?

Correcting Typing Mistakes

We are bound to make mistakes when typing. It happens…a lot! You can do two things to modify a line:

Completely retype the line.
Use the cursor keys to move back up to the line and make the corrections on top of the current code.

Here’s how it works. First, use the NEW command to clear out the previous program.

TIP: If you want to save the program, refer to chapter 3)

type the line of code below:

10 COLOR 0.2
20 ? "PLUS/4"

LIST the program. Line 10 has two errors. Can you spot them? RUN the program. The Plus/4 will display:

?SYNTAX ERROR IN 10

Well, of course! Hit the HELP function key and the Plus/4 will display and flash the line of code with the error. This is a great way to step through lines of code that have errors (again, there will be many).

Use the cursor keys to scroll up the the flashing line and replace the line with the one below:

10 COLOR 0,2

Remember to the hit the ⏎ {Return} after you correct the line and RUN the program again. The background will turn white and PLUS/4 will appear.

You can replace line 10 by typing over the command or creating a new line with the same line number. Type the line below:

10 ? "COMMODORE"

LIST the program:

10 ? "COMMODORE"
20 ? "PLUS/4"

💾 On Disk: 04 CMDR PLUS4

RUN the program and the output will be:

COMMODORE
PLUS/4

Replace PLUS/4 with VIC-20 by using the cursor keys to move up to the P in PLUS-4 and replacing the following characters with VIC-20. Don’t worry about moving to the end of the line. Once the changes are made, hit ⏎. You do not have to be at the end of the line to store the entire line.

If you want to remove the PLUS/4 line, just enter a blank line 20 by entering 20 followed by ⏎.

Let’s make more advanced edits on a line of code rather than just typing over characters. Use the NEW command and then type the line below:

10 ? "CORE"

See what I did there? Instead of typing PRINT, I used ?. LIST the program and you will see that the ? is replaced by the command PRINT. Serious time saver.

To change the word CORE to COMMODORE, you can simply type over the words or retype the line; however, let’s use the power of the ⌫ {Inst Del} key. By itself, ⌫ will delete the character one space before the cursor. Use ⇧ + ⌫ to insert a blank character one space to the right of the cursor.

Use cursor key to move on top of the letter O in line 10. Hold ⇧ and press the ⌫ key the number of spaces need to insert the letters ommod, or five times.

TIP: Although not covered in Chapter 4, we did cover a way in Chapter 2 to toggle between insert and overwrite mode. This is especially handy if you don’t want to count or don’t know the number of characters to insert. Tap (don’t hold) ⎋ {Escape} followed by the A key to enter Automatic Insert Mode. Tap ⎋ followed by the C key to Cancel Automatic Insert Mode. Try adding PLUS/4 after the word COMMODORE and before the ".

Time to enter a longer program and use our editing skills along the way. Type the program below after you use the NEW command:

COLOR 1,6,0
? "A FUNNY THING HAPPENED ";
COLOR 1,5,3
? "ON MY WAY TO THE KEYBOARD ";
COLOR 1,3,0
? "♥♥♥♥♥♥";
COLOR 1,1,0

💾 On Disk: 04 A FUNNY THING

TIP: ⇧ + S = ♥

Before you use the RUN command, anticipate the output. Now RUN the program. Character placement is different than before. Each new line of text begins next to the previous instead of on a new line thanks to the ; character at the end of the each PRINT statement. We’ll explore that more in just a bit.

Introduction to the Plus/4 Text Screen

Now we will use some programming to learn more about the Plus/4 screen.

Use the NEW command and enter the program below:

10 ? "♥";
20 GOTO 10

RUN the program and the screen will continually print hearts and fill the screen as shown below:

♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥

If you take the time to count the hearts, you will find a screen resolution of 40 x 25 characters or 1000 different locations for a character to appear. We can use this information for some creative programming.

Let’s use this information to create a single row of hearts without typing ♥ 40 times in a PRINT statement using the code below:

FOR X = 1 to 40
? "♥";
NEXT

RUN the program and the line below will appear:

♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥

💾 On Disk: 04 LINE OF ♥

Since there are no gaps or overlapping rows of hearts, we know that there are 40 character columns (vertical) on the screen. Let’s now verify the number of rows (horizontal) with the code below:

FOR X = 1 to 25
? "♥"
NEXT

💾 On Disk: 04 COLUMN OF ♥

Removing the ; at the end of line 20 ensures each new ♥ is printed on a new line. RUN the program and the lines below will appear:

♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥
♥

READY
▇

If you count the hearts, you will find three missing. That’s because the computer scrolled beyond three hearts to display the READY prompt.

One last thing about rows and text. Create the NEW program below:

10 ? "I LIKE YOUR TOUCH ON MY KEYBOARD. DO YOU COME HER OFTEN?"

💾 On Disk: 04 CREEPY CMDR

First, that’s a creepy statement straight from the actual user’s manual and second, it demonstrates a feature and limitation. The feature; when you type a LONG line of code, the Plus/4 will automatically wrap the text to the next line. The limitation; the computer will not cleanly break a word between lines and a line of BASIC cannot have more than 80 characters (two full rows).

More about PRINTing on the Screen

Previously we’ve printed characters on the screen that either butt up next to each other or print on the next line. The Plus/4 offers some additional control over how characters are printed on the screen through the use of “zones.”

Specify zones in the PRINT command using the characters , and ;. We already know that using ; will force the next line of text to butt up next to the previous, but what about , ? The , is similar to a tab stop but in this case, the tab is starts at every ten characters (the start of a new zone). A demonstration will better explain. Clear the screen and type the command below.

? "Z1","Z2","Z3","Z4"

RUN the program and the line below will appear:

Z1        Z2        Z3        Z4

Each string will begin at column 1, 11, 21, and 31 which means each zone is 10 characters wide. If you have more than 10 characters in a zone, such as the line below, zone two (Z2) is skipped and the next characters begin in Z3 or character column position 31.

? "!1234567890","Z3","Z4"

Screen Windows

The last concept in Chapter 4 is screen windows. The most interesting feature of screen windows is that they are mentioned once in the manual and never again. I struggle to understand their usefulness, but they are pretty cool.

An example is the best way to describe this feature that confines a specific area of the screen to use as a “work space.” Use the steps below to create a screen window on the Commodore Plus/4:

Move cursor on the screen to top-left corner of the screen window to create.
Press ⎋ + T.
Move cursor on the screen to bottom-right corner of the screen window to create.
Press ⎋ + B.

Now when you type any commands or code, it will all be contained in the screen window. To remove the screen window, press ⌂ twice. The cursor will then move to the top-left corner of the screen.

Here’s a fun example that combines much of what we’ve learned today:

Use the SCNCLR command.
Type the line of code below:

10 FOR X = 1 to 1000 : ? "{PUR}{RVS ON}▇; : NEXT
RUN the code
Using the cursor keys, move to the top-left corner of the screen.
Move the cursor down 10 characters and to the right 10 characters.
Press ⎋ + T.
Move the cursor down 15 characters and to the right 20 characters.
Press ⎋ + B.
SCNCLR to clear the screen.
^ + 2 to change to black characters.

The screen will clear, a thick purple border will appears, and you now have a smaller 20 x 15 window to work within. Play around in that window. To clear the screen window:

Press ⌂ twice
SCNCLR to clear the screen.

[2021-03-23] The BASIC program below demonstrates how to create a screen window using BASIC.

COLOR 0,1,7
SCNCLR
? "⌂→→→→↓↓↓↓";
? CHR$(27)+"T"
? "→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓";
? CHR$(27)+"B"
COLOR 0,15,0 : COLOR 1,2,7

💾 On Disk: 04 SCREEN WINDOW

Random Thoughts

This was a fun episode and it was interesting to learn the many things I forgot about Commodore Basic and character control.
The episode is a bit laborious and I’m sure those with basic Commodore computer experience will find some of the content tedious. Blame the old school teacher in me, but I believe repetition is the best way learn.
I found myself using the VICE Plus/4 emulator, along with my Plus/4, while writing this post. It was handy to bounce around Atom and VICE to experiment. And I can copy and paste code from my Linux software directly into VICE! I’m becoming much more familiar with VICE and see the advantage. Many of which I’m planning to show in a new series of video and posts. Stay tuned for more but this also works well with my theme of learning how to use retro-computers using modern tools and equipment (see Pi1541 and Tapuino posts/videos).
~~I’ve no idea how to use screen windows in programming.~~ [2021-03-21] See Episode Errata for new solution. I tweeted Bil Herd, tweet below, to see if he might respond and offer an assist.

@BilHerd, I'm working on Chapter 4 in the Plus/4 user's manual for my next post/video and wondered if you had insight on "Screen Windows" (pg. 53)? What was their intent and how could they be accessed in code? Other than a novelty, I'm not understanding their intended use.
— Steven Combs (retroCombs)🕹️ (@StevenCombs) August 28, 2020
This blog post really was fun to produce and in itself was an educational journey for me as I learned how to use CSS to style and color text.
The next chapter, 5, is all about numbers and calculations. It’s a short chapter, but I’m going to have to break out the math teacher in me to accurately describe and demonstrate features.

Join the Fun

Thanks for watching and if you are so inclined, please let other Commodore fans know about the series by sharing these videos using #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

OPEN THE BOX (BAG): ORIA Precision Screwdriver Set, 86in1 Magnetic Repair Tool Kit with Portable Bag

2020-08-29T00:00:00+00:00

This is the companion blog post for a quick open the box (bag) video, streamed on YouTube live, for the $25 ORIA Precision Screwdriver Set, 86 in 1 Magnetic Repair Tool Kit with Portable Bag (#ad). In this video I show you all the parts and pieces and, yes, I eventually got all the tools sorted into their proper location (see the video thumbnail).

Before you read my final thoughts, watch the open the box video below and learn what’s included with this 4.6 ⭐ Amazon rated kit.

YouTube Video: OPEN THE BOX (BAG): ORIA Precision Screwdriver Set, 86in1 Magnetic Repair Tool Kit with Portable Bag

Watch the video below and then read my additional thoughts on this toolkit.

Links Mentioned

Below are the links I mention in the video:

Package Contents

While I highlight each included item in the video, below is the complete list (with proper nomenclature) of the items the toolset includes:

2 - Plastic Opening Tools 3 - ESD Tweezers 1 - Utility Knife 1 - Anti-Static Wrist Strap 1 - SIM Card Ejector Pin and LCD Suction Cup 4 - Triangle Plectrums 2 - Plastic Spudgers 3 - Metal Spudgers 1 - Tin Scraper 1 - Large Plastic Double Headed Opening Tool 1 - Cleaning Cloth 1 - Magnetizing and Demagnetizing Tool 3 - SIM Card Shells 2 - Magnetic Protect Mats 1 - 60 in 1 Screwdriver Kit

Final Thoughts

My final thoughts are always a numbered list. Here’s the list for this device:

I’m not sure what inspired me to perform an open the box on YouTube live. It was nice to not have to worry about editing the video afterward though.
The velcro closure on the bag is STRONG! I feel like I’m going to tear the closure or case material when I open the bag.
I still wish the molded case holding the screwdriver and tips was made of stronger material. When I open the case, I feel like I’m going to crack the latch.
The flexible shaft is a tool I did not own. I’m sure it will come in handy.
The screwdrivers and tips are well made and I’ve already used them for several projects. Tips are durable and held in place by the strong magnet in the driver.
The plastic spudgers are not as solid as I hoped. I used a spudger to help me align parts on a 3D print (PLA) and the spudgers deformed. They are not ruinied, but they don’t have their original sharp edges after a single use.
The inclusion of the anti-static wrist strap may inspire me to use it on my next electronics project. It has been years. Hmmm…maybe not.
How many cleaning cloths can one person have? Well, that and USB cables.
Not sure I understand the SIM card shells. When would I use them?
I’m looking forward to the first opportunity to use the suction cups and break open a mobile device.
Overall, I like this set and the variety to tips included. I’ve already had occassion to use the set and for the price, its hard to beat.

That concludes my final thoughts for this toolset. I do update and timestamp posts when modifications and additions are made, so check back later and make sure you add this site to your RSS feeds.

Have Questions?

Drop your questions about this toolkit below or in the comments section at YouTube. Happy to provide answers.

OPEN THE BOX and SETUP: Wyze Cam Outdoor (Squirrel Cam One)

2020-08-17T00:00:00+00:00

I’m a WyzeYZE fan! Except for the WyzeYZE Lock (#ad), I “reckon” I have at least one of every product and not because they are sent to me to review–I purchase every WyzeYZE product I review. Although, if you are out there WyzeYZE…I’d consider review units as long as you know they will get an honest and objective look.

I’ve waited for an outdoor web cam from WyzeYZE for some time. I’ve even used some third-party products (#ad) to stick regular WyzeYZE Cams outside with limited success. It has been fun experimenting but nothing can beat a camera designed from the ground up for the elements. Enter the WyzeWYZE Cam Outdoor (#ad).

Before I share additional thoughts, please take a few minutes to watch my YouTube video below. It includes an open the box, setup, and smile worthy squirrel moments. And who doesn’t like funny squirrel videos?

YouTube Video: OPEN THE BOX and SETUP: WyzeYZE Cam Outdoor (Squirrel Cam One)

Watch the video below and then read on for my additional thoughts on this outdoor camera.

Links Mentioned

Below are the links (#ad) mentioned in the video:

Final Thoughts

My final thoughts are always a numbered list. Here’s the list for the WyzeYZE Cam Outdoor:

I wish there was a motorized option for the WZYE Cam Outdoor. That may come later since the WyzeYZE Cam started as a fixed unit and was later joined by the WyzeYZE Cam Pan.
I was surprised to learn that a base unit wired to a router was required. I assumed, wrongly, that I could connect the base station directly to my home Wi-Fi. Once I saw the capabilities of the base station (back-up all cams to a single microSD, protected and extended range network between cams, easy setup, etc.) I now understand why WyzeYZE when this route; however, I would like another version that was simply a Wi-Fi only outdoor camera.
The WyzeYZE Cam Outdoor includes a Travel Mode. I’ve not used this feature (maybe a later video or post); however, it appears to be a way to use a camera and base station, away from your home. Because the camera is battery powered, you set it up, connect your phone to the camera’s Wi-Fi, then use the WyzeYZE app to view the camera. This would make a great camera for camping and in areas where you don’t have a Wi-Fi network. Here’s how WyzeYZE describes travel mode and that same page provides further instructions:

Travel Mode gives you the freedom to use your Wyze Cam Outdoor anywhere, even when you’re away from home. This feature lets you use the camera without an internet connection, and it can be enabled on the camera or Base Station.
Since I now know that the camera has Wi-Fi built-in, I have to wonder if my wish in #2 could not be solved with a simple firmware update. It is also quite possible you can already do this and I just need to dig in more.
The outdoor camera feels robust and weather resistant. The magnet holding the base is strong. Just keep pulling. It will come off. The base unit, while not as robust as the camera, is adequate for an indoor component. I do like the “rabbit” design and the fact that you can put it on your desk, or mount it on a wall. My station still sits on a desk, but I can see myself mounting it at a later time when I determine exactly where I want to place the unit.
This is another instance where I REALLY like my Google Wi-Fi. Having three mesh units throughout my home gives me multiple locations to connect the base station since each Google Wi-Fi station as an additional network port. Most mesh units do include these ports, but a few do not. If you have a bunch of network devices and want to plan for the future, make sure your Wi-Fi mesh system includes these all important ports.
I mention in the video the moderate video quality for my first test. I reviewed signal strength in the app and there was only a single bar on the connectivity page. I was stretching the distance. I want the camera in that location; however, because of the placement of my Google Wi-Fi units, I can move the base unit closer to the camera and in a more central location.
I’m still trying to figure out the video back up system. I get notifications of movement and the standard length video; however, I can’t get anything beyond that default time. My guess is I only get notification length video because I don’t subscribe to their camera backup plan. It could also be a battery saving measure. More research to do. I also want to take the microSD card out of the base station and review the contents. That might reveal some hints.

That’s it for now. I do update and timestamp posts as I receive answers, so feel free to check back later and make sure you add this site to your RSS feeds.

Have Questions?

Well, I can see by the time on WyzeYZE Band (#ad) that I’ve already taken up too much of your time! Have questions about the WyzeYZE Cam Outdoor? Post them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them. I don’t have a lot of time on the device, but I will soon!

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 3 - Using Software

2020-08-02T00:00:00+00:00

In this Commodore Plus/4 retroCombs episode, I cover chapter 3 of the Commodore Plus/4 user’s manual. This chapter is dedicated to Using Software and there are several ways to load and save software using; cartridges, datasettes, and diskettes. In this post and the accompanying video, I cover each auxiliary storage device in detail; however, I add a modern spin and instead of the original devices; I use a new 264 diagnostic cartridge, a Tapuino, and a Pi1541.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

Series Information
Companion Disk Image (In Progress)
User’s Manual
YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 3 - Using Software
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Key to Keys
Episode Errata
Introduction
Built-In Software
Cartridges
Cassettes
- Load a program on cassette (or Tapuino)
- Save a program on cassette (or Tapuino)
Diskette
The DIRECTORY command
BONUS: SCRATCH command
Modern additions to Chapter 3
Random Thoughts
Join the Fun

Series Information

This episode is a small part of my larger Commodore Plus/4 series. You can read the entire series and view additional resources at:

</plus4>

Companion Disk Image

retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image - UPDATED AS OF: 2020-11-01

I use the following file name convention to make it easy to locate specific programs:

Sample Program Name: 02 RCOMBS SCROLL.PRG

02 - The chapter number
RCOMBS SCROLL - my self assigned name for the BASIC program which will be immediately identifiable if you follow along.

User’s Manual

Chapter 3 - Using Software

Below are the links for previous chapters covered:

YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 3 - Using Software

In the video below, I work through Chapter 3 of the user’s manual. I deviate slightly from the manual in topic presentation order to add clarity and I also add a bonus command. Along the way, I also share how to use a cartridge, the Tapuino, and the Pi1541

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links I mention in the video.

Key to Keys

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations as shown in the table below:

Key	Description	Key	Description
`⇪`	Caps Lock	`F1`	Function 1
`[C=]`	Commodore	`F2`	Function 2
`⌃`	Control	`F3`	Function 3
`⎋`	Escape	`F4`	Function 4
`⌂`	Clear/Home	`F5`	Function 5
`⌫`	Insert Delete	`F6`	Function 6
`⏎`	Return	`F7`	Function 7
`[R/S]`	Run/Stop	`F8`	Help
`⇧`	Shift	`␣`	Space
`↑`	Cursor Up	`↓`	Cursor Down
`→`	Cursor Right	`←`	Cursor Left

Episode Errata

THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE FEEDBACK!!! It makes this project more fun and I’m (re)learning much. I will add video corrections or additions below.

I mention how the screen blanks when loading programs from the Tapuino (or Datasette), but wondered how Icicle Works got around this limitation with a loading screen. Chuck Hutchins shared that, at least in the case of Icicle Works, the program loads in two parts. The screen blanks (because the C64 and the Plus/4 must blank the screen to access the I/O - a limitation of the custom video chips) while a fast loader is loaded into memory and then loads the main software in a second compressed audio source.
Chuck also shared that the Plus/4 I/O commands such as DLOAD, SCRATCH, and HEADER are also avaialble on PET Computers with Basic 4.0, the C128 (BASIC 7), and the C65 (BASIC 10).

Introduction

“The family of software available…is growing quickly?” It did? It may have in Europe; however, the U.S. units couldn’t use most of it since they were in PAL format.
Plus/4 can use cartridge, cassette tape, or diskette. Use the cassette or diskette to create and store your own programs.

Built-In Software

The Plus/4 includes four built-in software packages that are covered in their own user’s manual that’s even thicker than computer’s user manual. To load built-in software, press the F1 key (see last episode). To exit this software you have to reset or power on/off the Plus/4.

Cartridges

Cartridges include a variety of personal, education, business and games software. The only cartridge I own is a diagnostic cart from TFW8B.com. Let’s try it:

Turn off Plus/4
Insert cartridge (label facing up)
Turn on Plus/4

Cassettes

The Commodore 1531 and tapes are similar to music cassettes. While other computers could use a standard music playing cassette player, the Commodore uses its own “Datasette.” Use the Datasette to SAVE and LOAD programs. I use a Tapuino instead of a Datasette. Let’s use the Tapuino to load and save programs.

Load a program on cassette (or Tapuino)

Insert a cassette into Datasette (cue up a .tap file on the Tapuino using the LCD screen an momentary switches)
Rewind tape to beginning or FFW or RW to a time code (no action required)
Type LOAD (or use the shortcut: L then ⇧ + o) and press ⏎. The computer will display:

PRESS PLAY ON TAPE
Press the play button on the Datasette (or Tapuino) and the screen will will blank and then display:

FOUND "PROGRAM NAME"
Press C= to load the program or else wait 10 seconds for the program to be loaded automatically
When the program is loaded, READY will appear
Type RUN to run the program

If the program is a basic program, you can use the LIST command to view and modify the program contents.

Save a program on cassette (or Tapuino)

Insert a cassette into Datasette (Select the Save option on the Tapuino and choose manual or automatic naming of the .tap file)
Rewind tape to beginning or FFW or RW to a time code (no action required)
Type SAVE "PROGRAM NAME" (alpha-numeric up to 16 characters and you can get creative with upper-lower case modes) and press ⏎. The computer will display:

PRESS RECORD AND PLAY ON TAPE
Press the Play button (Select Play on the Tapuino)
The screen will blank and when the program is saved, will display READY

For both the LOAD and SAVE command, press RS to stop the process. For SAVE, press RS first then press stop on the Datasette.

Diskette

(Commodore 1551 that was a parallel, rather than serial, device that was faster than the 1541. The default format was not backward compatible. It uses a 5¼ inch diskette 💾 to load and save programs. Let’s give it a try:

Load a program on diskette:

Insert a diskette into disk drive and close the protective door (load a .d64 image on the Pi1541)
Type DLOAD "PROGRAM NAME" or F2 followed by the program name and press ⏎.

NOTE: I believe the DSAVE, DLOAD, and DIRECTORY commands were added with the Commodore 128. The old muscle memory remembers, LOAD "FILENAME",8,1

The screen will display the following:

  SEARCHING FOR PROGRAM NAME

  LOADING

  READY

  █

When the program is loaded, READY will appear.
Type RUN to run the program.
If the program is a BASIC program, use the LIST command to view and modify

Headering a diskette

In modern parlance; format and prepares a diskette to store data
Format for HEADER command:

HEADER "DISK NAME", Udevice#,I.d.#,Drive#
- Disk Name - Name of the entire disk up to 16 characters
- Device # - Specifies the diskette drive (usually 8)
- I.D.# - A user assigned I.D. number that should be unique for each disk
- Drive # - Used for dual drive models where D0 should be used for single drive models
Example: HEADER "LETTERS",U8,I07,D0

More information on the HEADER command is on page 101 (The Plus/4 Encyclopedia)

Save a programs on diskette

Insert a diskette into the disk drive (load a .d64 image on the Pi1541)
Type DSAVE "PROGRAM NAME" (same name constraints as cassette drive storage) and press ⏎. The computer will display:

PRESS PLAY AND RECORD
The screen will blank and when the program is saved, the Plus/4 will display:

READY

The DIRECTORY command

Insert a diskette into the disk drive
Type DIRECTORY + ⏎, or press F3, and the Plus/4 will display the contents of a diskette drive

TIP: Type DIRECTORY "MY*". The Plus/4 will display all files that start with MY.

BONUS: SCRATCH command

The SCRATCH command deletes a program on the diskette.

Type SCRATCH "PROGRAM NAME" + ⏎
The program will be permanently deleted from the diskette

Modern additions to Chapter 3

In preparation for this episode, I had to assemble the Pi1541. That in itself was a post and a video.

I also delayed this video to create a Tapuino (an Arduino based modern Datasette clone). You can view that process here.

Both of these modern auxiliary storage device replacements allowed me to create this video since both of the Plus/4 specific devices are very difficult to find.

Random Thoughts

The video is longer than I had planned. I thought since chapter 3 was so short in the user’s manual, the video would be short as well; however, I couldn’t help but opine on each command. Some may say “ramble” but I found myself reminiscing about using these devices and commands…
…which leads me to how much I enjoyed putting this video together.
I remain impressed with the Plus/4. Sure, I understand that it is not as capable as C128 or C64; however, the updated basic sure does make this computer easier to use which in turn makes it so much fun.
The Pi1541 and the Tapuino are just “so cool.” I mean, come on! Using a Raspberry Pi and an Arduino to emulate two retro storage devices continues to fascinate me and make this user’s manual project even more geeky.
I’m looking forward to chapter 4. It’s going to help me understand the character tomfoolery I ran into in chapter 2.
I decided, during a run after editing the video, that I’m going to create a disk image that will contain all the programs I create myself or type from the user’s manual. This will require me to come up with a naming convention for each program file…hmmm…any ideas?

Join the Fun

Thanks for watching and if you are so inclined, please let other Commodore fans know about the series by sharing these videos using #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

OPEN THE (ADA) BOX: Adafruit Industries ADA BOX 015

2020-07-31T00:00:00+00:00

I don’t know why I started my subscription to Adafruit’s ADA BOX plan so late in the game with box #014. To make it happen, I cancelled the subscription to the Field Notes Quarterly and reallocated this “fun-money” to the quarterly ADA BOX. That was a good move for me. While I enjoy the Field Notes subscription, these paper products have stacked up and it will take me years to use them!

Because of COVID-19, the Adafruit team was unable to meet their normal quarterly spring ship schedule. COVID would have been the perfect time to enjoy a box; but I get it. Their employees needed protection and I’m sure their supply chain was affected. Imagine my excitement when Adafruit’s first box in six months arrived on my doorstep. Upon opening, I could tell they took time to prep these packs for a COVID world. You will understand that comment after you watch my open the box video below.

YouTube Video: OPEN THE (ADA) BOX: ADA BOX 015)

!!! SPOILER ALERT !!! Watching the video below will spoil your own enjoyment if you are an ADA BOX subscriber. Do not watch if you have not yet received your box! Enjoy the surprise. If you aren’t a subscriber, hopefully this open the box video will encourage you to support the amazing team at Adafruit Industries and enjoy some quarterly electronics fun. These boxes will also make a magnificent gift for the maker in your life.

Final Thoughts

I said it in the video and I’ll write here; good on Adafruit for including a mask in the box during these strange times.
I am unfamiliar with the Adafruit CLUE but really looking forward to digging into this device and its capabilities. At $40, it may seem a bit pricey; however, it includes a whole lot of tech. I didn’t list this tech in the video but I will do so here. The CLUE includes: Bluetooth LE, 1.3″ 240×240 Color IPS TFT display (not OLED as I mention in the video), proximity/light/color/gesture/sound/humidity/temperature/barometric pressure/altitude sensors (whew, that’s a whole lot of sensors), NeoPixel LED indicator, 2 Mb internal flash, two white LEDs and a STEMMA QT connector. The value proposition is much better when you understand what this little device is packing.
The CLUE works with either the Arduino IDE or CircuitPython. I really want to play with CircuitPython and I now have a device that provides the perfect the opportunity!
The other device included, which I was also unfamiliar with, is the Adafruit Bonsai Buckaroo - micro:bit & CLUE Plant Care Helper. I assume this name is a play on the movie The Adventures of Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension. This device includes a buzz/speaker, 3V motor control, and alligator clip pads. The device connects to the CLUE’s six alligator clip connectors using six bolts with nuts. It’s a pretty slick unit and it’s good to see Adafruit build their CLUE ecosystem that’s also physically compatible with the BBC micro:bit. I wonder if this device would also work with the BBC micro:bit? I’ll have to find my micro:bit and give it a try sometime.
Not sure why I received two gloves, but I’ll take the extra. I’m interested in exploring how to attach the CLUE to the glove. Would this make a great Halloween costume accessory? Maybe a bionic hand or wrist controlled laser blaster? How about a Star Trek inspired wrist “Tricorder?” Oh, my mind is churning.
I looked online and it appears that my crumpled flower pot should be used as an insert for another small, more rigid, pot. That makes much more sense now. I’ll start my search for a small pot. I’m sure Nikki has one.
I did some additional research on the CLUE. Recommended projects include a morse code chat box via Bluetooth between two CLUEs and a wrist mounted step counter (that would work will with another glove). Adafruit also provides instructions for a 3D printed CLUE case. That will happen with my Creality Ender 3.

Have Questions?

Have questions about the ADA BOX 015? Post them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them. I don’t know about you, but I can’t wait to see what’s in store for box #016. It’s like Christmas four times a year!

OPEN THE BOX: TASCAM DR-40X four track linear PCM digital audio recorder

2020-07-28T00:00:00+00:00

I purchased another tool to add to my podcast and YouTube tool chest, the TASCAM DR-40X audio recorder (#ad). In the short video below, I open the box, share some accessories, and attempt to turn the unit on, and record for the first time. Along the way, there were a few hiccups; however, after a bit of trial and error (and some instruction manual time), I was able to record samples that I include in the video.

YouTube Video: OPEN THE BOX: TASCAM DR-40X four track digital audio recorder (and an attempt at a first use)

Watch the video below and then read on for some additional thoughts on this audio recorder.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links (#ad) mentioned in the video:

Final Thoughts

As I mention in the video, the TASCAM is not as well built as a Zoom H6 (#ad); however, the TASCAM is half the price and as far as I can tell, the quality of the audio is equivalent for my use. And that’s what is most important. This doesn’t mean I might not go back and purchase a Zoom later, but for now, the TASCAM seems perfect.

A day after the video, I did try the TASCAM with my favorite MXL mic (#ad) that requires 48v phantom power. WOW! The recording sounds awesome. It was easily on par, or better, than the audio I record when I use my MXL mic connected through my Mackie ProFX8v2 (#ad) into my Mac mini (#ad).

Before recording, I did have to refer to the instruction manual to select the input; however, now I’m good to go. Once you go through the menu items a few times, switching between and choosing options is easier.

Based on my quick test, I can easily see myself using the TASCAM and an MXL microphone for on-the-go, or even in my office, recording. I often find myself uncomfortable at my desk recording and the TASCAM will now give me the opportunity to record anywhere. Hmmm….that’s got me thinking.

Even without the MXL microphone, the built-in microphones do an admirable job and with just a small amount of bass boost in the post-processing, I’m not sure I could tell the difference between MXL and built-in microphone recordings. That’s pretty impressive when you think about it. $180 for a portable and professional level audio recorder. I can’t wait to experiment more and I’ll be sure to include any additional findings in this post. As always, any new additions will be date stamped and easily identifiable.

Additional tips:

You can store the tilt foot in the battery cover.
Don’t forget. You can tilt out the built-in microphones to enhance stereo separation in recordings. This is great for capturing natural sounds. If you do use the mics in this configuration, be sure and change the menu settings from X-Y position to A-B position. Here’s the cool part. When you manually move the microphones, the menu option automatically appears.
Be careful with the 48v phantom power setting. You can wreck microphones and equipment if you activate with the wrong devices. The good news is that the TASCAM provides a warning and a way out before activating. Nice touch!
When you connect the TASCAM to a computer via a micro USB cable and turn it on, it provides options to power the device, activate the SD card reader, or use as a USB microphone. That makes the cable a versatile option.
Referring to number 4, I much prefer just removing the SD card and plugging it into a reader on my Mac mini.
My unit was on Firmware v1.01 and there was an update to v1.02. You can find that information here. Instructions are provided and my upgrade went off without a hitch.

That’s it for now. I’m sure as I use the device, I will add other tips and tricks.

Have Questions?

Have questions about the TASCAM? Post them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them. I don’t have a lot of time on the device, but I will soon!

retroCombs: The Tapuino Project - Build an Arduino powered Commodore Datasette clone for the Commodore Plus/4

2020-07-19T00:00:00+00:00

As part of my Commodore Plus/4 series, chapter three of the user’s manual includes a section on using a Commodore Datasette and a 1541 Diskette Drive. In a previous post, I assemble a replacement for the disk drive now it’s time to build a device I call the Tapuino.

What’s a Tapuino, you ask? It’s a cool Arduino-based replacement for the Commodore Datasette. For this project I use an Arduino, in this case the inexpensive Arduino Nano version with easy to source electronic components. You can learn all about the Tapuino on the Sweetlilmres 1337 beef: Building the Tapuino R2 blog post.

While this post focuses on the Tapuino for a Commodore Plus/4, this build will work with a C16 or other series Commodore computer. If you want to use the Tapuino with a VIC-20, C64, or C128, replace the 7 pin DIN connector with this C2N Power Adapter.

Sweetlilmre’s wrote his original blog post in 2015 and things have changed. His build uses veroboard to assemble and connect the Tapuino components. I use a breadboard. Later, I move my working Tapuino project to a “solderable” breadboard and create a custom 3D printed case.

This post, and the companion video, includes updates to build materials, layout, imagery, parts sourcing, and processes. Before you read this blog post, watch the video below. It shares my construction process and first use of the Tapuino.

YouTube Video

Title: Tapuino Project - Build an Arduino powered Commodore Datasette

In the video below, I breadboard and operate a Tapuino connected to a Commodore Plus/4:

Bill of Materials

The list below includes everything you need and the most inexpensive way I’ve found to source the project. Many pieces you have to purchase in multiples. This was not a problem for someone like me who has several projects on the bench at a time, but if you want the cheapest way to a Tapuino, purchase a kit or an assembled unit.

This site uses Amazon affiliate links. Thanks for supporting my content by starting your shopping using the links below:

1 - Arduino Nano V3 - This is the second nano I use in the video and not the first!
1 - 16x2 LCD Display with I2C backpack - The Tapuino can use other displays, but these are the most cost effective.
1 - SD Card module with built-in level conversion - Different from the unit Sweetlilmre specifies, but it works perfectly.
1 - Breadboard - Yes, this should work, unlike the one I had troubles with in the video.
1 - 430 Ohm resistor - Seriously, if you want to try this project and don’t have this resistor, for the cost of a SASE, I’ll send you one.
1 - Breadboard - One that works!
1 - 430 Ohm resistor - I have a bunch of these now.
4 - Momentary Switches with Color Caps - I didn’t use the color caps in this video, but may on my custom case.
1 - 4n25 Optocoupler - Same a resistor notes
1 - Spool of solid core breadboard wire: Multicolor will assist in wire tracking.
1 - Spool of solder - Just in case you are low.
1 - [7 Pin DIN plug connector - Plan accordingly if you e in the United States.S. because these take a while to get across the pond.

Makers or electronic hobbyist will have many of these items in stock (I did!). I did splurge with the purchase of the multi-color momentary switches and the all-in-one LCD screen with I2C backpack. I did not have a 4n25 optocoupler.

Tools

Wire Stripper - Easy to use an a clear strip each time.
Solder/Station - This is an inexpensive station that I recommend.
Rosen Core Solder wire - In case you are running low.

Fritzing Time

The first step in my process was to use a regular breadboard to build the Tapuino using Sweetlilmre’s original Fritzing file below:

Afterward, I optimized the layout and part locations. There was little change since the original was efficient; however, I could locate updated Fritzing parts and took a different approach to labeling the cable connection. A Fritzing image of my layout is below.

Download my Fritzing File

Building the Tapuino

I demonstrate how to build the Tapuino in the video; however, below are additional thoughts and tips:

While Fritzing allows me to document my build, the other advantage is that while laying out the Tapuino, I became more familiar with the build and how the components connect. This came in handy when troubleshooting.
I’d not used a 4n25 optocoupler; or opto-isolator (which is why it took me a few times to say it correctly in the video). Sweetlilmre’s site doesn’t explain what it does. Wikipedia says an optocoupler:

is an electronic component that transfers electrical signals between two isolated circuits by using light. Opto-isolators prevent high voltages from affecting the system receiving the signal. Here’s the data sheet if you’d like to learn more.

Next Up

One of the reason’s I used a solderable breadboard was to provide a permanent platform for the electronics. This way, I could design a 3D printed case. Leave your comments and questions below or in the comments under the YouTube video. I’ll do my best to answer them.

Join the Fun

Don’t miss the retro-computing fun. SUBSCRIBE to my YouTube channel and check out my other posts.

Help make this content better! Leave your comments, corrections, additions, and thoughts in the comments below. You can email me at retrocombs@icloud.com. Thanks for reading and if you are inclined, please let others know about the blog using the hashtag #retroCombs.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

HOWTO: Easy to Build LEGO Minifig Display with IKEA Lustigt

2020-07-06T00:00:00+00:00

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted anything LEGO related. I wouldn’t say that I’m in my “dark years;” however, my LEGO hobby has been put on hold for some pressing work concerns and priority with other hobbies (I have way too many); namely my new fascination with the 1980s era Commodore Plus/4 computer and the use of modern devices to make that device even more enjoyable to use in 2020s.

During the 2020 fourth of July weekend, Nikki and I brokedecided to break out some LEGO projects (Have I mentioned how much she and I miss our old podcast, Bricks in my Pocket - BimPCast?). I chose to worked on my IKEA LEGO minifig display that I’ve had on the back burner for months. I knew it would be a quickshort project; even including the video capture. The next day, I took twoa couple of hours with DaVinci Resolve to create an edit of what I hope is a fun video meant to inspire others to give this simple, and inexpensive, LEGO minifig display hack a try. What a fungreat family project for a rainy, hot, or snowy, afternoon!

YouTube Video: Easy to Build LEGO Minifig Display (Mash-up of DC Comics, LEGO, IKEA, and Makya)

In the video below, I have some fun demonstrating my process to create a LEGO minifig display from an IKEA Lustigt wall display unit and some Makya building brick tape.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links mentioned in the video:

IKEA Lustigt Display - These are a steal at $8 each! I have four of them.
IKEA FIXA Power Screwdriver - A great little power screwdriver that really holds a charge and has a surprising amount of power for it’s diminutive size.
Makya Toy Tape - When I purchased, several months ago, there was a combo package. Sadly, that package doesn’t seem to be available currently, so I’ve linked to individual packages.

Final Thoughts

As I mention at the start of the video, I love DC Comics. I’ve always been a DC, rather than Marvel, comics fan. When LEGO released their series one DC Comics minifig collection (#ad), I couldn’t resist. They created mMy favorite characters in the DC Universe were created in the 1940s. Most and became a memberpart of the Justice Society of America (I’m old, but not old enough to have been alive during the publication of these original comics). The Jay Garrick version of the Flash has always been my favorite, with the original Green Lantern a very close second. Their quaint back stories and colorful customs are simply, and literally, “classics.” The Flash gets his power from drinking hard water, and the Green Lantern finds a magical lantern in a train tunnel. “How much fun is that!?!” I’m hopeful series two will include the original Alan Scott Green Lantern minifig ands well as other notable characters from that era to include:

Wildcat - a boxer turned superhero
Atom - a man who’s smaller, but stronger, than everyone else
Hawkman - a reincarnated winged warrior
Hourman - a man who takes a drug (not a great role model for today’s youth) to achieve his superhuman strength for, you guessed it, one hour
Red Tornado (aka, Ma Hunkel) - one of the strangest characters ever and you musthave to Google that one for some fun (Spoiler Alert: she wears a cooking pot on her head in her fight against crime)

In hindsight, I wish I’d spent more time planning the video. I always think of things afterward to include; however, after only a few hours of editing, it was a fun, and very geeky, weekend project for the two of me and Nikki to enjoy and I was glad I could cajole Nikki into an audio only appearance. It’s always so much more lively when she joins the fun. Her laugh is infectious and I should have included more of it into the video.

Now that this video is complete, I’m looking forward to getting back to my retroCombs videos. I think there’s some impressivereally great stuff coming up. I hope you plan to join me on that retro-computing journey!

Join the Fun

Have you created your own LEGO minifig display? Leave a comment below and share your creation. Nikki and I would love to see them. Stay tuned to <> for any updates to this post with additional figures, or scenes, I add to my display(s). Now where is that Harley Quinn minifig?

retroCombs: Create a blank .c64 disk image for the Pi1541 or SD2IEC

2020-06-27T00:00:00+00:00

In my last post and video, I shared my experience with the assembly and first use of a Commodore4Ever Pi1541 for the Raspberry Pi Zero. Not familiar with the device? Take look here for more information.

The Pi1541 turned out to be a great device; if you have a bunch of disk images laying around your computer. As I began to prepare for my next using the Commodore Plus/4 episode, it became evident that I needed a blank disk image so I could save and load my own basic program and application files. I wasn’t sure you could do this with the Pi1541 by itself, so I began to look for hints online. Turns out, you cannot. You need to do this on a computer using some software. In this post and the accompanying video, I share that process as well as some other tips.

NOTE: While this process focuses on the creation of a .d64 diskette image for the Pi1541, it turns out that this same process works for SD2IEC devices. I updated the title and the contents to reflect this use case.

YouTube Video: Create a blank .c64 disk image for the Pi1541 or SD2IEC

In the video below, I share the content found in the blog post below.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links (#ad) mentioned in the video:

Creating a blank .c64 disk image

The process for creating a blank image utilizes the VICE (Versatile Commodore Emulator) emulator software. Installation of VICE varies by computer; however, I will run through the installation on a Linux distribution (Elementary OS). Check out the VICE download page for the many other versions available.

Install VICE

For Linux users, the most recent version of VICE should be ready to install from your distribution’s repositories. On my Elementary OS install (based on Ubuntu), it’s as simple as:

Launch the Terminal.
Type sudo apt update and wait for the repository lists to update.

Type sudo apt install vice and a terminal message similar to the one below will appear:

 Reading package lists... Done
 Building dependency tree
 Reading state information... Done
 The following additional packages will be installed:
 libgtkglext1 libpangox-1.0-0
 The following NEW packages will be installed:
 libgtkglext1 libpangox-1.0-0 vice
 0 upgraded, 3 newly installed, 0 to remove and 0 not upgraded.
 Need to get 5,257 kB of archives.
 After this operation, 34.0 MB of additional disk space will be used.
 Do you want to continue? [Y/n]

Type y at the prompt and VICE will install.

For the Linux version, VICE will install several VICE launchers as shown in the image below:

While you can use this software to create your own .d64 diskette image, the software is also a whole lot of fun for on-the-go retro-computing on other devices; but that’s for another post. Let’s not get distracted and get back to the task at hand.

Create the diskette image

With VICE installed, create a diskette image using the following steps:

Start the VICE (C46) emulator on your computer. A screen similar to the one below will appear:
From the VICE menu, select File / Create and attach an empty disk image / Device #8. The following dialog box (or something similar), will appear:
Navigate to a location where you can easily find the .d64 file. I like to use the Downloads folder.
In the Name text edit area, type the name of the file you want to create.
You can select which device to automatically connect in the lower-left of the dialog box; however, that has nothing to do with the creation of the image. It simply connects the new image to that device number for VICE after the image is created. Use the default; #8.
In the Name text edit box, type a name for the image in all lower case and no more than 16 characters. This text will display in the directory listing when you display the contents of the .d64 disk image on your Pi1541, SD2IEC, or within VICE.

NOTE: Type everything in lower case characters because they will be converted to upper-case when using on a Commodore computer or emulator. You can use other symbols, but I recommend you first take a look online at what symbols are allowed.

The formatting ID: text edit box is purely cosmetic and can be any two alpha-numeric characters. You can also leave this box blank.
Using the Type dropdown menu, select the d64 option (it will be the default).
Select the Save button to create the diskette image. VICE will also attach this new diskette image to the current VICE instance. If you remember your diskette commands (such as LOAD "$",8 and then LIST), you can play around with the image on your computer before we transfer it to the Pi1541.
Once you are done mucking around with the image under VICE, close the VICE application.

Transfer the disk image

Now that the diskette image is created, let’s move it to the Pi1541.

Place the Pi1541 SD card into the computer.
Open a file manager.
Browse to the 1541 directory on the SD card.
Copy the newly created .d64 from the computer to the 1541 directory as shown in the image below:
Once the image is transferred (it will take less than a second), eject the SD card.

Use the disk image

With the image transferred, we can now use it on a Commodore 8-bit computer.

Insert the SD card into the Pi1541 (or SD2IEC device).
Connect the Pi1541 to the computer using a cable.
Apply power to the Pi1541 using a microUSB cable. The Pi1541 screen will flash and the green power light will illuminate.
Turn on the Commodore computer (in my case, a Plus/4). The Pi1541 screen will display the contents of the microSD card.
Use the buttons on the Pi1541 to navigate to the .d64 image created.
On the Commodore computer, list a directory with either the LOAD "$",8 or DIRECTORY commands (depending on the Commodore computer you are using with the first option usable by all).

The directory listing will include the new .d64 image contents and it can now be used like a diskette inserted into a 1541 disk drive.

Final Thoughts

You could find a copy of a blank .d64 file online, download it, and then place it on the SD card; but where’s the fun, and learning, in that? Besides, now that you have the secret sauce, you can now easily add your own header text to the image and create other types of diskette or tape image files using the same process, but with different options. The fun is in the exploration.

I’d also like to point out that you can transfer a .d64 file between computers and devices. Want to code on your computer? Place the SD card from the Pi1541 or SD2IEC device into a computer, use VICE to code (using a modern keyboard and emulating any Commodore 8-bit you wish), save the program to the disk image, and then place it back into the Pi1541 (or SD2IEC) and try the program on an actual Commodore computer. It’s a great way to take your retro-computing hobby on the road with you! While you’re at it, load up the SD card with other programs and disk images and use the VICE IEC option to access them all (you are welcome for that extra tip and can Google that one!).

One last reminder. As I’ve learned over time, SD cards, can be fragile. Make sure you have many on hand (#ad) and back up your data regularly.

Join the Fun

Know another way to create a .64 disk image? Have other tips and suggestions for me and the community? Well, why don’t you help make this post better! Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

retroCombs: Pi1541 Assembly and First Use

2020-06-21T00:00:00+00:00

In this supplemental episode to my Commodore Plus/4 series, I share my experiences assembling the Pi1541 Hat for a Raspberry Pi Zero. In the episode, I solder a pin connector onto the Raspberry Pi Zero, solder and assemble a serial cable with two 6 pin DIN connectors, assemble the whole package, and start up the Pi1541 for a first use. For some extra fun, be on the lookout for a cameo appearance from Nikki and a former vice president!

YouTube Video: retroCombs: Pi1541 Assembly and First Use

In the video below, you will see my process for assembling a Pi1541 hat for a Raspberry Pi Zero and share my first use.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links (#ad) mentioned in the video:

Random Thoughts

Assembly of the Pi1541 was easy. The hardest part was soldering the header pins on the Raspberry Pi Zero and especially those 6 PIN DIN connectors. The cable I created worked; however, it wasn’t as flexible as I wished. I found cables on eBay and they arrived just in time for me to film the demonstration of the Pi1541. I’ll use the cable I created for another project.

This was one of the few projects where everything worked on the first attempt. I was surprised and happy. Usually my projects end up with several hours of troubleshooting.

The user experience for this device is spot on. While I know I have some things to learn about the device, upon first use, it seems to live up to it’s reputation as a “cycle-accurate” device that provides exceptional compatibility with software titles, cracks, and disk loaders. The only issues I had were with PAL software and my video capture device. I’ll need to look into that one.

I mention in the video that I have plans for a Pi1541 for the Raspberry Pi Zero case. That planning is well underway and I even have a couple of prototype prints from my 3D printer. This project was a wonderful way to spend a Father’s Day weekend!

I still have some things to learn about this device. I need to determine how to create a blank image on the SD card as well as format the device using the Plus/4. That’s next on the workbench; how to use this device with the Plus/4.

I’m also intrigued by a similar project, the Tapuino. I’m currently planning to build that project and share my experience as part of this series. It’s ingenious and will make a good supplemental device to the Pi1541.

That’s it for this post. It’s a short one but jam packed with the links you need to duplicate my project. Let me know if you have any questions using the comments below.

Join the Fun

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 2 - Using the Keyboard and the Screen

2020-06-10T00:00:00+00:00

In this Commodore Plus/4 retroCombs episode, I cover chapter 2 in the user’s manual entitled, Using the Keyboard and the Screen. This chapter is chock full of keyboard instructions to help the user move around the screen, change text highlighting, modify lines of code, and create special characters.

In this blog post and the companions video, I run through each concept and present ways to uses these features. I even discover some “weirdness” with Commodore Basic. It’s a packed episode that may take a couple of viewings to get through, but be sure you watch the entire episode if you want to see all the tips and quirks discovered.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

Series Information
Companion Disk Image (In Progress)
User’s Manual
YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 2 - Using the Keyboard and the Screen
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Key to Keys
Episode Errata
Episode Contents
Random Thoughts
Join the Fun

Series Information

This episode is part of a series. You can read the entire series and view additional resources at:

</plus4>

Companion Disk Image

retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image - UPDATED AS OF: 2020-11-01

I use the following file name convention to make it easy to locate specific programs:

Sample Program Name: 02 RCOMBS SCROLL.PRG

02 - The chapter number
RCOMBS SCROLL - my self assigned name for the BASIC program which will be immediately identifiable if you follow along.

User’s Manual

Chapter 2 - Using the Keyboard and the Screen

YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 2 - Using the Keyboard and the Screen

In the video below, I work through Chapter 2 of the user’s manual. Along the way, I discover some keyboard tricks and discover some editing quirks.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links mentioned in the video.

Key to Keys

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations as shown in the table below:

Key	Description	Key	Description
`⇪`	Caps Lock	`F1`	Function 1
`[C=]`	Commodore	`F2`	Function 2
`⌃`	Control	`F3`	Function 3
`⎋`	Escape	`F4`	Function 4
`⌂`	Clear/Home	`F5`	Function 5
`⌫`	Insert Delete	`F6`	Function 6
`⏎`	Return	`F7`	Function 7
`[R/S]`	Run/Stop	`F8`	Help
`⇧`	Shift	`␣`	Space
`↑`	Cursor Up	`↓`	Cursor Down
`→`	Cursor Right	`←`	Cursor Left

Episode Errata

THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE FEEDBACK!!! It makes this project more fun and I’m (re)learning much. I will add video corrections or additions below.

Episode Contents

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations as shown in the table below: In this episode I describe and demonstrate each of the items below:

Upper-case versus lower-case mode: Default is upper-case graphics mode. Switch between them with ⇧ + C=.

WARNING: Don’t use the ⇧ key when typing basic programs.
Run Stop RS: Stops a running program. ⇧ + RS loads and runs the first program on a disk drive

TIP: If there is a program in memory, ⇧ + RS will also fail to load the first program on a disk drive, but will still execute the run command on the code in memory.
Cursor Keys: Covered in last episode, but Plus/4 includes all four keys!
Clear Home ⌂: Home, clear, and clear window functions. Home moves the cursor to the top-left corner of the screen (home). ⇧ + ⌂ move to cursor to the home and clears the screen. 2 x ⌂ Clears the main and other windows (more on windowing in chapter 4).
Control ⌃: Works with other keys that we will learn throughout this series. ⌃ + S will pausing printing (!) and listing of a program. Any key resumes the listing.
Commodore Key C=: Work with other keys. C= shift key for the left graphic characters on the keys, the bottom row of colors on the top number keys, and will slow down program scrolling.
Color Controls:
- ⌃ + 9 = Reverse On
- ⌃ + 0 = Reverse Off
- ⌃ + , = Reverse On
- ⌃ + . = Reverse Off
Escape Key ⎋: Do not use like a shift (⇧) key. Tap ⎋ and then tap another key as shown below (I’m not covering them all but we will add in future chapters):
- ⎋, A = Auto Insert
- ⎋, C = Cancel Auto Insert
- ⎋, D = Delete Line
- ⎋, I = Insert Line
- ⎋, J = Move to Beginning of Line
- ⎋, K = Move to End of Line
- ⎋, L = Screen Scrolling On
- ⎋, M = Screen Scrolling Off
- ⎋, O = Cancel Insert, Quote (Chapter 4), Reverse, and Flash
- ⎋, P = Erase From Position to left
- ⎋, Q = Erase from Position to Right
- ⎋, X = Cancel an Escape functions
Special Keys: Per the manual, the keyboard contains special keys such as: £, π, <, >, [, ], ←, and ↑.
Function Keys: Type the KEY command to display the fuctions of the keys as shown below:
```
KEY 1, "GRAPHIC" or built-in software
KEY 2, "DLOAD"+ CHR$(34)
KEY 3, "DIRECTORY"+ CHR$(13)
KEY 4, "SCNCLR"+ CHR$(13)
KEY 5, "DSAVE"+ CHR$(34)
KEY 6, "RUN"+ CHR$(13)
KEY 7, "LIST"+ CHR$(13)
KEY 8, "HELP"+ CHR$(13)
```
I demonstrate each function key.

TIP: CHR$(34) = " and CHR$(13) = ⏎

Function Keys F4, F5, F6, and F7 require ⇧ and you can reprogram the keys as I demonstrate. A soft reset will retain the reprogramming and a hard reset will clear the reprogramming.

Random Thoughts

I can’t believe I learned so much about this computer just by reviewing the use of the keyboard. I was also surprised to find how unpolished Commodore Basic was in the Plus/4 I have on hand. As I demonstrate in the video, there are some odd things happening when I use reverse and flash characters in keystrokes.

I didn’t share this issue in the video; however, when using reverse and flash characters in a line of code and then using the cursor keys to move left and right in those same lines of code, will display some odd reverse characters. I’m going to explore these more, but my guess is there’s some Commodore fan who can help explain this. If so, please reach out to me or drop a comment below.

Join the Fun

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 1 - Unpacking and Setting Up

2020-06-04T00:00:00+00:00

In the next Commodore Plus/4 retroCombs episode, I open the Commodore Plus/4 manual for the first time to look at Chapter 1: Unpacking and Setting Up. Since the previous episode was an Open the Box, unpacking is already complete so this episode focuses on setting up the computer. Watch the video below and then come back to this post to read some additional thoughts, find links to everything mentioned, and learn a few more additional tips.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

Series Information
Companion Disk Image (In Progress)
User’s Manual
YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 1 - Unpacking and Setting Up
Links Mentioned in this Episode:
Key to Keys
Episode Errata
Random Thoughts
Join the Fun

Series Information

This episode is part of a series. You can read the entire series and view additional resources at:

</plus4>

Companion Disk Image

retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image - UPDATED AS OF: 2020-11-01

I use the following file name convention to make it easy to locate specific programs:

Sample Program Name: 02 RCOMBS SCROLL.PRG

02 - The chapter number
RCOMBS SCROLL - my self assigned name for the BASIC program which will be immediately identifiable if you follow along.

User’s Manual

Chapter 1 - Unpacking and Setting Up

YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 1 - Unpacking and Setting Up

In the video below, I connect the Commodore Plus/4, not to a television or monitor, but to a computer and OBS Studio and then walk through Chapter 1 of the user’s manual. I also discuss how I will use the Plus/4 with modern components and systems; a maker and geeky approach to retro-computing.

Links Mentioned in this Episode:

Below are the links mentioned in the video.

Key to Keys

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations as shown in the table below:

Key	Description	Key	Description
`⇪`	Caps Lock	`F1`	Function 1
`[C=]`	Commodore	`F2`	Function 2
`⌃`	Control	`F3`	Function 3
`⎋`	Escape	`F4`	Function 4
`⌂`	Clear/Home	`F5`	Function 5
`⌫`	Insert Delete	`F6`	Function 6
`⏎`	Return	`F7`	Function 7
`[R/S]`	Run/Stop	`F8`	Help
`⇧`	Shift	`␣`	Space
`↑`	Cursor Up	`↓`	Cursor Down
`→`	Cursor Right	`←`	Cursor Left

Episode Errata

THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE FEEDBACK!!! It makes this project more fun and I’m (re)learning much. I will add video corrections or additions below.

Random Thoughts

You really can learn something when you read an instruction manual. I found that out while reading an out-of-place paragraph about the use of the Reset button. When you hold the RUN/STOP key and push the Reset button (unique to the Plus/4), you enter the Machine Language Monitor (also unique to the Plus/4). The extra feature here is that doing so soft reboots the computer and keeps the current program in memory. Using the Reset button by itself will completely reboot the computer. Keep this in mind if you run into an issue with a program and haven’t saved it recently.

I was surprised how quickly my muscle memory returned when typing on the Plus/4 keyboard. The layout is so different from modern computers, I thought the “relearning” curve would take longer. I guess all those years typing lines and lines of code from RUN magazine burned those keystrokes into my old brain. After the video, I took a peek at some programs from the user’s manual. I couldn’t help myself; I took some time to type a few of them into the Plus/4 and “runned” them. So much fun. Even in 2020, there’s a satisfaction to typing a program, bug fixing, and then executing the code. I’ve programmed in Python and Ruby on modern PCs, and I just don’t get that same feeling of satisfaction. Maybe it’s nostalgia, but I want to believe there is just something special about these 8-Bit computers and the basic programming language.

I’m fond of the spiral-bound manual. I always wondered why every software manual wasn’t bound this way and still prefer them to today’s electronic manuals. I’ve read that the Plus/4 user’s manual is not as comprehensive, of the same quality, or as fun, as the Commodore 64 manual. I really need to get a C64 manual to compare. I have a VIC-20 manual and there is a stark difference in print quality. I think I’ll share that during the next video.

I mention in the video that I plan to look at modern components to replace items such as the display (we took care of that in this episode), tape drive, floppy drive, printer, and a modem. I believe I’ve sourced each alternative and one of them, the PiDrive Zero, is linked above. If you have ideas, please send them to me. I’m also accepting donations such as software, cartridges, original joysticks, etc. If you have spares, please contact me and we’ll find a way to get them here.

Join the Fun

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

Creating my YouTube retroCombs video bumper

2020-06-02T00:00:00+00:00

On 2020-05-23, I began a new series of YouTube videos about the Commodore Plus/4. You can learn more about the first episode and the series here. In preparation of that series, I created a video bumper; a short 14 second brand animation to introduce all retroCombs videos. In this post, I’m going to share my process. This post is not a step-by-step tutorial, but rather a description of the tools I used and the flow to put it all together. Let’s take a look at the bumper first in the YouTube video below.

YouTube Video: retroCombs Animated Video Bumper

As you watch the video below, see if you can identify which tools I used to create the bumper. I think my list, of all FREE apps, will surprise you.

Think you’ve identified the tools? Let’s see if you were correct.

Creating the Artwork (Google Slides)

This one is going to confuse a whole bunch of graphic artists out there. Every graphic I create for my YouTube videos or my podcast is created in…wait for it…Google Slides. You can view the Google Slides file that contains the artwork for this bumper video below.

This is a live file. As I add additional graphics, you can always return to this page and see the additions. Being able to embed a presentation on a webpage is the first advantage of Google Slides.

You may wonder why I use Google Slides instead of Google Drawings (or why I use Google Slides at all). Easy answer. Google Slides includes every drawing tool found in Google Drawings. In addition, Google Drawings can only contain a single drawing, not a series of drawings as I demonstrate in my presentation above. Having multiple slides means I can easily duplicate a slide to transfer the color palette, copy portions of images from one slide to the next, and collect a series of images into a single file.

You will notice in my bumper that the monitor and the computer are surprisingly similar to a Commodore monitor and the Plus/4, but not quite. I created these images by tracing over photos I took of the actual objects and then modified my designs to fit the tools available in Google Slides. If you look closely, you will see some of the liberties I took; and that was okay. These images do not need to be exact because they are my vision and design of these real-life objects.

The drawings created in Google Slides are vector images. As a former computer-aided drafting educator, I’m familiar with the more flexible vector, rather than bitmap, drawing tools and feel right at home in Google Slides. Google Slides allows me to combine bitmap with vector graphics, but I rarely use this feature. I create each unique drawing on its own slide and if I want to combine items to make a system, I copy and paste onto another new slide.

Before I create video assets, I specify the size of the presentation in pixels. Since I create video in HD, I set the presentation dimensions to 1280 x 1080 pixels. There’s an option in Google Slides to choose standard 16:9 HD, but when you export images using this setting, you don’t get full HD resolution, but rather a 720P resolution. This will produce blurry images when upscaled.

Slide backgrounds are always transparent. Few people know this option exists. Instead of selecting a color for the background, I chose transparent. When you export a slide as a .png file, that image will have the background removed and you can overlay images on top of each other when you export them as a video asset (more on that below). While I didn’t use them here, I also use this technique to create lower-thirds for other video content.

Unfortunately, Google Slides does not include some necessary tools. While I appreciate the .png, .svg, and .pdf export options available, an option missing is the ability to export a presentation as a movie or animation for self playing presentations. You can embed self playing HTML5 animations into the web sites, but there’s no way to export a video file or animation. Because of this limitation, for this bumper video project, I needed to use another tool to create my animations and export them as video.

Creating the Animation (Apple Keynote)

If you’ve ever seen an Apple presentation, you’ve experienced the graphic and animation capabilities of the Keynote application. I created the entire bumper animation with the Keynote application on a Mac mini.

The images were easy to import but I did need to install the same fonts used in Google Slides on the Mac mini to maintain consistency. Luckily, Google makes this easy. Visit the Google Fonts site, download the font, and double-click to install on the Mac. I used a fun 8-bit style font called, Press Start 2P.

Keynote was used to build out my storyboard (which was originally hand drawn). There were no slide transitions. The entire animation uses object animations. One particularly fun animation was the Keyboard Build-in. This animation mimics typing. Using this animation with the Press Start 2P font, on a blue background, allowed me to simulate typing on an 8-bit computer. I think the text animation looks really good. I also used another cool Keynote tool, Magic Move, to animate objects “automagically” between slides. You will notice the use of this tool toward the end of the animation.

I could have included audio in Keynote to simulate the sound of someone typing; however, my goal was also to include the actual sound of typing on a Commodore Plus/4. To ensure exact placement of this recorded audio, I needed a more robust tool (more later).

Creating the Audio (Audacity and Audio Recorder)

To record Commodore Plus/4 keystroke sounds, I broke out an inexpensive handheld audio recorder, connected a lavaliere microphone, and clipped the microphone to the top of a Commodore Plus/4. I then tried to type, at the same speed, the keystrokes animated in Keynote. That was a disaster. I kept messing up. I counted the characters and just typed random keys. I ended the line by hitting the Return key firmly. This gave the audio an extra “umpf” at the end of the line. I did this several times in the same audio file until I felt I had a good take.

My bumper includes 8-bit sound effects. I found 8-bit sound effects in several YouTube videos. I’ve since figured out how to grab those directly from 8-bit devices using my Cloner Alliance Box Pro. I used an online YouTube to MP3 converter to download the audio from these videos. From this large audio file, I used Audacity to grab and create the snippets for the bumper. While Audacity was open, I loaded my keyboard audio and clipped the best take of the keystroke audio.

With all the video and audio assets ready, it was time to compile the final animation.

Putting it all Together (DaVinci Resolve)

I’ve used DaVinci Resolve for several months now (a COVID learning opportunity) and it is now my goto video editing package. It has been used to edit and upload most of the videos found on my YouTube channel. Below are the reasons I recommend DaVinci Resolve:

A free version with every tool I will ever need is available for Mac and certain Linux distributions.
Despite its complex editing tools, it is easy to pick up and use if you watch a few YouTube videos which leads to the next bullet…
There are a ton of wonderful YouTube video tutorials to get you started.
They even throw in an integrated audio editor.
Includes professional titling (I did not use this feature) if you want to modify or create flying text and logos.
If you need advanced tools, you can grow into the application, with a single fee of $299, to create truly amazing and professional videos.

I am pleased with how quickly I was able to edit the bumper video down into the 14 second spot. You can see my timeline and a screenshot of DaVinci Resolve in the image below.

Total time to edit the entire video, once I had all assets created and exported in their own folder, was about 30 minutes. This includes the removal of a segment where the computer crashed into location. It made the segment longer, wasn’t really in the spirit of the bumper, and was just tacky. That’s the one advice I would offer when creating a bumper video. Keep just what you need and if it looks out of place, it probably is. Kill it!

What’s next?

I’m already considering some changes to the retroCombs bumper. I’d like to shave it by four-seconds and get it right at ten-seconds. This may seem like an easy task, but those four-seconds will significantly change the flow of the bumper. After some thought, I think I can combine the typing on the first screen with the typing on the second. I’ll work on it. This extra work will make the bumper more impactful.

And here’s my last tip. Keep refining your ideas. If you are like me (I only hope you aren’t), all my first draft video and blog posts include more than I need and I always end up cutting to make them more succinct (if you have read this far you are probably wondering why I didn’t cut even more of this post). While some will say you should “kill your darlings,” I say you should “clone your darlings” and then cut the original. I’ve found out way too many times that I had wished I kept the first draft.

I hope someone finds this post helpful or causes you to think about your process. My process isn’t necessarily for everyone and I’m sure there are professionals and amateur video editors are would like to rip my video apart. That’s okay, if they do, I learn from that. As long as I’m “cool” with the video, that’s all that matters.

Leave a comment below and let me know what you think.

Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 0 - Open the Box

2020-05-23T00:00:00+00:00

Today I unveil the first in a new theme of posts, retroCombs. This theme is devoted to my love of retro computing and gaming. I have a couple of retro posts on the blog, but now I have a brand theme to tie them together. The first post to receive the brand is part one of a new series on the Commodore Plus/4 computer.

MEMBERSHIP: I now offer retroCombs memberships from $1 (PET level membership) to $20 (MEGA65 level membership) that include levels in between for all budgets (VIC-20, C64, Plus/4, and C128). If you’d like to support my content and get access to my Discord server along with other cool freebies, check out each level at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/retroCombs.

Table of Contents

Series Information
Companion Disk Image (In Progress)
User’s Manual
YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 0 - Open the Box
Key to Keys
Episode Errata
Random Thoughts

Series Information

This episode is part of a series. You can read the entire series and view additional resources at:

</plus4>

Companion Disk Image

retroCombs User’s Manual Disk Image - UPDATED AS OF: 2020-11-01

I use the following file name convention to make it easy to locate specific programs:

Sample Program Name: 02 RCOMBS SCROLL.PRG

02 - The chapter number
RCOMBS SCROLL - my self assigned name for the BASIC program which will be immediately identifiable if you follow along.

User’s Manual

User’s Manual Front Matter

YouTube Video: retroCombs: Commodore Plus/4 User’s Manual, Chapter 0 - Open the Box

The video below describes my background with Commodore computers, my intent for this new series, and an open the box on a Commodore Plus/4. Watch the video and then come back and read the additional material posted below the video.

Key to Keys

Because the Commodore Plus/4 keyboard is so different from modern keyboards, I devised a modern key nomenclature to identify keystroke combinations as shown in the table below:

Key	Description	Key	Description
`⇪`	Caps Lock	`F1`	Function 1
`[C=]`	Commodore	`F2`	Function 2
`⌃`	Control	`F3`	Function 3
`⎋`	Escape	`F4`	Function 4
`⌂`	Clear/Home	`F5`	Function 5
`⌫`	Insert Delete	`F6`	Function 6
`⏎`	Return	`F7`	Function 7
`[R/S]`	Run/Stop	`F8`	Help
`⇧`	Shift	`␣`	Space
`↑`	Cursor Up	`↓`	Cursor Down
`→`	Cursor Right	`←`	Cursor Left

Episode Errata

THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE FEEDBACK!!! It makes this project more fun and I’m (re)learning much. I will add video corrections or additions below.

Random Thoughts

I look forward to diving into the Commodore Plus/4. This 8-bit computer has eluded me for years. I know it is going to be a very different experience from my earlier VIC-20, 64, and 128. The lack of focus on gaming with an increased emphasis on business should be an interesting study. I’m excited to explore what appears to be a more functional basic programming language complete with dedicated graphics commands, file functions, and machine language monitor (all missing from the VIC-20 and C64).

NOTE: While writing this post, I found the Commodore Plus/4 Wiki. It will become an excellent resource during this series.

One experiment I will conduct, is to use the Plus/4’s keyboard and word processor to write a blog post. This will involve typing the post (in Markdown) on the Plus/4 and then finding a way to move the text to a modern PC. I’m open to ideas now if anyone has them!

I hope readers and watchers enjoy the series. I may not post as regularly as I like, and I may use YouTube Live on a whim to capture live experiences, so make sure you subscribe to my blog, Twitter feed, and YouTube channel if you want the full experience.

I want this to be a collaborative project. If you are an experienced Plus/4 aficionado, please share your ideas, thoughts on the content, and where I might easily (and inexpensively) locate peripherals for this device. I’d even appreciate if you have spares lying around, sending them my way.

If you are new to the device like I am, post your questions and ideas for what you would like to see. Also let me know if you are following along. Let’s make this a community project. For now, Leave your comments and thoughts below or in the comments under the YouTube video.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

HOWTO: Install Super Retroboy on the Retroflag GPi Case

2020-05-16T00:00:00+00:00

This blog post is a companion page to two YouTube videos and provides all the links and additional information necessary for you to install Super RetroPie on a microSD card that will power a RetroFlag GPi Case for on the go retro gaming.

My goal for this project was to focus on retro-gaming. When I say retro-gaming, I’m talking about 8-bit gaming prior to Nintendo’s rise in popularity. I want to emulate classic systems such as:

Commodore VIC-20
Commodore 64
Atari 2600
Atari 5200
Atari 7800
Atari 400
Atari 800
ZX Spectrum

Super RetroPie does not include a few of these systems, so there will be some tweaking after the initial installation. I’ll share these tweaks in this blog post, but this extra content is not included in either video.

Below is a table of contents so you can link directly to various areas of this blog post:

Equipment
YouTube Video: WORKBENCH LIVE: Retroflag GPi Case with Super RetroPie emulation software
YouTube Video: HOWTO: Install Super Retroboy on Retroflag GPi Case
Install Balena Etcher
Download Super RetroPie
Transfer Image to microSD
Transfer Wi-Fi Settings to Boot Partition
Transfer ROMs
Assemble the GPi Case
Insert microSD into Case and Boot
Operating Super RetroPie
Batteries
Activate Wi-Fi
Expand the microSD file system
Install the Vice Commodore Emulator
Shutting Down the system
Summing it all up

Equipment

Below is the list (#ad) of items for this project:

RetroFlag GPi Case Raspberry Pi Zero W 32Gb MicroSD Card Super RetroPie Image Belana Etcher

A Raspberry Pi Zero, non Wi-Fi, can be used, but this instructions assume you have the ”W” variant.

Before starting, and depending on the amount of time you have to burn, consider watching one of the videos below:

YouTube Video: WORKBENCH LIVE: Retroflag GPi Case with Super RetroPie emulation software

The first video below is the extended WORKBENCH LIVE video. This live session is unedited and includes additional information not found in my edited video below. It also includes some streaming hiccups that occurred along the way that resulted in some “herky-jerky” video moments. If you have some time to kill or just need some geeky background noise, this is the video for you.

YouTube Video: HOWTO: Install Super Retroboy on Retroflag GPi Case

The second video takes that two hour live behemoth and shrinks it down to a much more manageable thirty-minute chunk. If you just want the nuts and bolts toward a first boot of the GPi Case, this one’s for you.

Install Balena Etcher

I use Balena Etcher to burn images to USB drives and SD cards. It’s available for various platforms but here are the basics:

Visit the Balena Etcher site.
Click the Download for [Your Platform] button underneath the cycling Etcher image as shown below:
Once the download is complete, install per your computer OS’s normal process.

Download Super RetroPie

There are many pre-built images for the GPi Case, a Google search will overwhelm you, and many of them include game ROMs. I choose to use an image that does not include ROMs so I can focus, and build from scratch, my handheld system for specific 8-bit computer and game consoles. No Gameboy, NES, or Sega games here. Just good ole Commodore, Atari, and Sinclair games.

Super RetroPie uses Emulation Station and is a variation of RetroPie with tweaks specifically for the GPi Case and the Raspberry Pi Zero (with slower processor and only 256Mb of RAM). This image also includes all the scripts mentioned in the instructions that come with the GPi Case.

Be sure to visit the Super RetroPie - Facebook to learn more, ask questions, and see how others have used the image.

To download the image, follow the steps below:

Visit the Super RetroPie Image MEGA page as shown below:
Download the SuperRetroBoyRevE(5-5-20).rar image file.
Extract the .rar file per your computer’s OS (on most OS’s this is as simple as a right-click and then choose Extract.)
If you use a Raspberry Pi Zero W (that includes Wi-Fi) also download the wpa-suppliant.conf file.

Make sure you can easily locate these files. You will need them for the next section. Now that you have the files, let’s prepare a microSD card for the GPi Case.

Transfer Image to microSD

With the Super RetroPie image downloaded, it’s time to write it to the microSD card. We can use our animated image and instructions below to help guide us:

Load Etcher (See above)
Locate and then drag the SuperRetroBoyRevE(5-5-20).img file to the Select Image button (you can also use the file selector if you click the button).
Click the Select Target button to choose the microSD (be careful!)
Click the Flash! button and wait for the image to flash to the microSD. Etcher will also verify the image to ensure the integrity of the image on the microSD.

If you are using a Raspberry Pi Zero W, you can use this wait time to prepare your wpa_supplicant.conf file.

Transfer Wi-Fi Settings to Boot Partition

Load the wpa_supplicant.conf file into a text editor (or use the text below to start your own).

 country=US
 ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
 update_config=1

 # RETROPIE CONFIG START
 network={
     ssid="YourSSID"
     psk="YourPassWord"
 }
 # RETROPIE CONFIG END

Replace YourSSID and YourPassWord with the SSID and password to connect to your home Wi-Fi router:
If the image transfer to the microSD card is complete, copy the file to the root partition of the microSD drive.

Transfer ROMs

While you have the microSD card connected to your computer, you can speed up the transfer of ROM files by copying them over via a USB connection. ROMs must go into specific folders. The Emulation Station starter page includes a list of all folder names. Consult this list before you drag and drop ROM files into folders.

NOTE: Just because you have a folder with ROMS, this does not mean the proper emulator is installed. In the case of Super RetroPie, you still need to install VICE to run Commodore games. More on this process later.

Assemble the GPi Case

I cover the assembly of the case extensively in both videos and as they say, “a picture is worth a thousand words…that I don’t have to type!” (Okay, I added that last part!); however, a few notes and observations are below:

Pull the cartridge cover pieces apart carefully. I don’t think they would break, but forcing them apart might cause damage.
The small brass square with the embossed Raspberry Pi logo is in fact a heat sink. Place it on the CPU of the Raspberry Pi Zero W to help dissipate heat.
Keep watch on your power cable. It’s not a standard micro USB port. Might I recommend you throw this cable in the included case?
Speaking of micro USB ports, If you remove the battery compartment, there’s access to a micro USB port. Check out these instructions to learn how you can use the port to connect external USB devices.
As I note in the video, after my own mistake, be sure not to remove the microSD tab cover while you assemble the cartridge holder.
The screws to the Raspberry Pi holder a tiny! Keep them in the bag until you need them.
The included screw driver was a nice surprise and incredibly useful for those tiny screws.

Insert microSD into Case and Boot

Now that the case is assembled, it is time to insert the microSD card and boot this thing up:

Open the microSD tab cover on the cartridge case.
Insert the microSD card and ensure the pins face toward the back of the unit.
Replace the tab cover.
Slide the cartridge into the GPi Case body.
Plug in the power cord (recommended) or place 3 AA batteries in the battery compartment and replace the cover.
Slide the power switch on the top of the case all the way to right and the power light will come on.
Wait for the device to boot up.

You have now successfully constructed your portable handheld retro gaming device. You were successful, right? If not, verify all of the steps again.

Operating Super RetroPie

I’m not going deep here and playing a game using Super RetroPie should be self explanatory at this point. Below is a basic control table that explains the use of the buttons to control Emulation Station and the Atari 2600 emulator. Other emulators will use different button configurations, but this will get you started:

Control	RetroBoy	Atari 2600
4-way Thumb Pad	Navigation	Move in-game character
Select	Main Menu	Options
Start	Options	Reset
Select + Start	Exit Emulator	N/A
A	Select Option	N/A
B	Go Back	Fire Button
X	Random	N/A
Y	N/A	N/A
Left-Shoulder	N/A	N/A
Right-Shoulder	N/A	N/A

There are many “N/A” items in the table, but usage depends on the emulator and this table will just get you started.

NOTE: The case also includes shoulder buttons on the back for emulators that require them (as shown in the image below).

Batteries

Three AAA batteries provide hours of fun; however, the case does not replenish rechargeable batteries when you connect the power adapter. That would be a nice addition. Maybe in a future version or maybe some reader can share with us an electronics hack?

Activate Wi-Fi

Wi-Fi is not active by default. Use the steps below to turn it on:

Use the navigation keys to navigate to the Emulation Station RetroPie options screen using the A button.
Select WIFI.
Select ENABLE WIFI. The screen will blank and a Wifi enabled… notification will appear.

NOTE: The wpa_supplicant.conf file you copied to the microSD card, if created properly, will automatically use those credential to connect the GPi Case to your home network.

Use the same procedures, except select DISABLE WIFI, to toggle Wi-Fi to off. Be sure to turn off Wi-Fi to extend the life of your batteries.

Expand the microSD file system

The next step is to expand the available microSD card space to the entire 16Gb. When the image installs on the microSD card, it only allocates the space taken by the image. Use the steps below so you can all the space on the microSD:

Use the navigation keys and navigate to the Emulation Station RetroPie options screen using the A button.
Select RETROPIE UTILITIES.
Select RASPI-CONFIG.
Use the cursor controls to select Advanced.
Press the right-arrow button to highlight the Select option.
Press the B button (confused yet?)
Press the right-arrow button to highlight the Expand File System option.
Press the B button and a screen will confirm resizing.
Press the B button to return to the previous screen.
Press the right-arrow button to highlight the Select option.
Press the right-arrow button again to move to the Back option.
Press the B button. This will display the main menu again.
Repeat steps 8 through 9 to select the Finish option. A Would you like to restart now? option will appear.
Press the B button to reboot.

The entire microSD card can now be used to store ROMs and additional options and emulators. You will never, THANKFULLY, have to go through this button-mashing again for this microSD card!

Install the Vice Commodore Emulator

I want to demonstrate how to install the Commodore emulator the case. This will help you customize your own personal installation, but also share my love of Commodore computers. As an aside, this one is a bit tricky if you’ve never used a Raspberry Pi or Linux before and you are sure to learn a few things along the way. Let’s get started:

Make sure Wi-Fi is active.
Use the navigation keys and navigate to the Emulation Station RetroPie options screen using the A button.
Select the WIFI option.
Select the SHOW IP option. The screen will go black and display a terminal window with network information.
At the top of the screen, note the IP address of the internal Raspberry Pi Zero W and write it down (unless your memory is better than mine).
Press the B button to exit.
On a computer sharing the same Wi-Fi network, open a Terminal window.
At the command line, type the following (where the x’s represent the IP address you captured earlier):

ssh pi@xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx

If this is the first time you connect, you will receive a prompt similar to the one below:

 The authenticity of host 192.168.86.36 (192.168.86.36) not established.
 ECDSA key fingerprint is SHA256:6qdmyn+WHar2VMvgUyJUrdLOKcJoIs9zoTIXCw8iSDM.
 Are you sure you want to continue connecting (yes/no/[fingerprint])?

Select yes.
At the password prompt, enter:

raspberry

The terminal will display:

     .***.     Saturday, 16 May 2020, 23:53:05
     *****     Linux 4.14.114+ armv6l GNU/Linux
     `***'
      |*|      Filesystem      Size  Used Avail Use% Mounted on
      |*|      /dev/root        15G  4.4G  9.9G  31% /
    ..|*|..    Uptime.............: 0 days, 00h43m16s
  .*** * ***.  Memory.............: 34048kB (Free) / 249162kB (Total)
  *******@@**  Running Processes..: 91
  `*****@@**'  IP Address.........: 192.168.86.36
   `*******'   Temperature........: CPU: 42°C/107°F GPU: 43°C/109°F
     `"""'     The RetroPie Project, https://retropie.org.uk

 pi@retropie:~ $ _

Type sudo RetroPie-Setup/retropie_setup.sh and the RetroPie setup window will appear.
Select Manage Package.
Select Manage Optional Packages.
Select 152 vice.
Select Install from binary and the vice emulator will download and install.
When complete, select the Back option three times.
Select Perform Reboot to start and refresh ROMs directories.
The SSH connection will automatically close.

NOTE: To close the SSH connection manually, type exit in the Terminal window.

Once the GPi case complete a reboot, if you have Commodore ROMs in the proper directories, you will a Commodore system option in Emulation Station when browsing for games.

You can use this process to install other emulators, but remember, you will need to manually configure the GPi controls and if a game requires a keyboard, that will be a “no go!” In my case, I’ve been able load Commodore games, but I’ve not figured out how to map the controls on the case to the emulator. So…I can’t play them! That will take some research, trial, and error. I believe that will be another supplementary post, so stay tuned!

Shutting Down the system

When you are done playing, it’s time to shut down the system and there is a specific way to do this.

This is important! Don’t simply pull the plug or move the power switch all the way to the left. Doing so will likely (and I mean likely) corrupt the image on the microSD card.

Follow these steps:

Move the power switch from the far right position to the middle position and you will hear a slight click that will activate the shutdown script.
EmulationStation will close and exit to a terminal screen where you view the script shutdown commands.
When the shutdown commands are complete, the screen will fade to either black or a strip of horizontal colors. When it does, move the switch all the way to the left to cut power to the device.

Follow this process EVERY time! ‘nuff said?

Summing it all up

I love this case! I know I’ve only touched the surface of what this system is capable of and I’m looking forward to hours of exploration. Since I’ve recorded my videos, I’ve enjoyed numerous hours exploring classic Atari 2600 games and the memories wonderful! I hope this guide was helpful and that you will also enjoy hours of reto-gaming goodness. What could make this guide better? Drop a comment below and let me know.

🕹️ retroCombs, OUT!

HOWTO: Level a Creality Ender 3 Surface Bed and Print a Commodore VIC-20 Key Plunger

2020-05-02T00:00:00+00:00

Since I finally have my process working consistently, it is time to share how I level the bed on my Creality Ender-3 (#ad) 3D printer with Creality Upgraded 3D Printer Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Glass Plate (#ad) upgrade. If you are curious about the glass build surface upgrade, check out this blog post.

This post shares both a YouTube video that demonstrates my process as well as written instructions below. To test out the bed leveling, I print a keyboard plunger for a Commodore VIC-20. The plunger will replace an original that is broken. Check out the video to see if I was successful (or see the image down below for the spoiler):

NOTE: This post is part of a series on 3D Printers. More posts to come.

YouTube Video: HOWTO: Level a Creality Ender 3 Surface Bed and Print a Commodore VIC-20 Key Plunger

The Problem

Once I level the bed, I am going to test the surface by printing a key plunger for a Commodore VIC-20 computer. If you don’t know what this is, it really doesn’t matter with regard to leveling the print surface. If you do know what this is, greetings from a fellow retro-computing enthusiast.

This is a perfect part to test the leveling on the Ender 3 because it is small and only connects to the print surface at two points (disregard my four point comments in the video) and those two points are small areas. If the bed isn’t level and the heat set just properly, the print will fail miserably, and usually dramatically, with a mess of PLA.

You can grab the VIC-20 key plunger STL file on Thingiverse. Thanks to Manuel Straub, mannesahne, for creating this part.

Level the Creality Ender 3 Print Bed

Here are the steps I use to level the bed on my Creality Ender 3. This is a mashup of several techniques I found online in my attempt to make the process quick and easy.

Use the putty knife that comes with the Creality Ender 3 to lightly remove any left over PLA from previous prints. This process works for the [Creality Upgraded 3D Printer Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Glass Plate][https://amzn.to/31gy9R4] but I cannot recommend it for other surfaces.
Clean the glass bed with Pre-Moistened Lens Cleaning Wipes. I prefer Zeiss or Welby brands.
Turn on the 3D printer power.
Move the print head to the X,Y, and Z home position. In my video, I use Octoprint to move the surface. You can use the default controls on the Ender 3.
Raise the print head up 10 cm along the Z axis.
Move the print head to X:70 and Y:70.
Place a piece of paper under the print head.
Move the print head to the Z home position.
While holding the paper in a single hand, try and push and pull the paper between the print head and the bed.
If you can easily move the paper, rotate the spring wheel under the bed clockwise slowly, while moving the piece of paper back and forth, until the piece of paper stops moving.
If you can’t easily move the paper, rotate the spring wheel under the bed counter-clockwise until you can easily move the paper back and forth. Repeat step 10.
Repeat steps 7-11 at the following positions: (X:70,Y:170), (X:170,Y:170), (X:170,Y:70).
Test X:70,Y:70 one more time.
Move to X:120,Y:120 (or roughly the center) and test the final location.

If you find at step 13 you are out of level again, run through the steps all over. Over time, the bed springs (on the 3D printer, not the bed you sleep in) will settle and you will not have to level the bed as frequently. You are now ready to print. That’s all there is to it.

I hope this post is helpful to Creality Ender 3 users new and old. It’s a great printer and with some additional parts, finesse, and understanding, you can print some wonderfully useful items. Time for me to go. I have a Commodore VIC-20 keyboard to fix!

Drop a comment and let me know if this post was helpful or if you have further questions.

FIRST USE: Xfinity Flex Video Streamer

2020-04-30T00:00:00+00:00

In my last blog post, I shared my YouTube OPEN THE BOX video for the Xfinity Flex video streaming device. This blog post and companion video serves as a follow-up for those interested in this streamer. In the video, I take a first-look at the devices’s menus and features. In addition, this companion blog post shares additional information not included in the video along with some final thoughts and questions.

Xfinity offered the device for free as part of my Xfinity cable account. The first device is free and a second is $5 per month. Being the penny-pincher I am, I only requested the single device. If I ever cancel my service, I have to turn the device back in. I do not own this “free” device. After you read my review, you will not be shocked to learn that my Flex may go back to Xfinity sooner, rather than later. I’m not sure I want to be financially accountable for a device that I won’t use regularly.

YouTube Video: FIRST USE: Xfinity Flex

Before reading the remainder of this post, watch the video below.

In the video, I demonstrate the following:

Hardware and Start Up
Remote Control
User Interface
Video Services
Music Services
Tools Menu
Settings Menu
Search
Final Thoughts

I present my thoughts about the device in this post as a series of lists. You can use the table of contents above to jump to a specific area.

Hardware and Start Up

The streaming box is rugged, has a modern look, and is well designed.
There were no surprises or gotcha’s during the first start up.
Device startup was quick.
Connection to home Wi-Fi as part of the initial startup process was without issue.
Xfinity already tied my account to the device and no log on was necessary.

Remote Control

On initial startup, the remote functions in IR mode. Make sure to point the remote at the Flex until Bluetooth pairing is complete.
The setup prompt you to activate the Bluetooth functionality of the remote.
During the setup, you will configure the IR features to control a television and sound system. You select those devices from a list in the Flex user interface and then fat-finger smash some keys and a code when prompted. Not sure why those codes can’t be sent to the remote since it has a Bluetooth connection to the Flex.
The remote includes voice search (more on that later).
The remote has a build quality superior to other streaming devices.
When you lift the remote, the backlight turns on to assist in use in dark environments.
Reminder, use the Xfinity button to go home (I struggle with this during the video).
Batteries included!
Controls on the remote include standard TV/DVR buttons at the top; with a record button? I assume this is the same remote used on their X1 voice enabled DVR. Below the TV controls are standard streamer box controls.

User Interface

The user interface was clean and modern.
If you use other streaming devices, there is a small learning curve.
There are occasional hiccups when moving through areas but overall the experience is pretty snappy.
The user interface does its best to expose free content but it gets a bit confusing as it jumps through various services to find those resources.

Video Services

First thing you will notice is that the applications provided are curated by Xfinity. There is no app store and the apps are preinstalled or loaded on demand (I can’t tell).
An update after, I recorded my video, activated the Peacock channel. The Peacock includes some interesting programming with new originals to come. A Battlestar Galactica reboot might cause me to keep this thing longer than I originally intimated.
Video starts quickly (my Flex was only a few feet away from my Google Wi-Fi access point).
Video quality was similar to all the other devices I use. No complaints.
Cord-cutters who want traditional live TV will be disappointed. In order to get live TV on the Flex, you have to have Xfinity cable service. This makes the device almost useless to cord-cutters because you won’t find YouTube TV, Hulu, or Sling applications.
Xumo and Pluto TV are highlighted in the Live TV area. I believe Pluto TV is now a part of the larger Xfinity/Comcast conglomerate (don’t quote me on that one).
Movies information includes Rotten Tomatoes information and ratings.
Flex allows you to rent or purchase films and television (I don’t recommend because this locks you into the Xfinity eco-system which does not translate well to other streaming platforms).
Bonus surprise: Includes some HBO content such as the entire Game of Thrones series.

Music Services

In the video I struggle to locate music with the voice search (more later).
Amazon Prime Music was one of the music services. That just seems odd. Like all other curated app selections on this device.
If you have a YouTube Music account, use the YouTube channel on the Flex to listen to your favorite music.
Includes VEVO and music through their streaming partners; XUMO and Pluto TV.
Hard focus on pop and hip-hop. These are not my genres of choice and I found it difficult to find music that meet my rock and hard rock tastes.
Some music services are simply music “related” video and not actual music tracks.

Provides an option to view billing.
Use the device to check outages.
Handy option to check data-usage. The data you stream on this device DOES count against you. Not cool Xfinity!

Integrates with other Xfinity devices such as X1, home security, and caller ID integration.
No option to easily check for updates or determine what OS is being used but the About page does include general information and firmware version.
The Flex updates itself during the early morning hours.
Other settings include; naming the device, changing the brightness of the power LED, and general locale settings.
Includes the ability to pair a set of Bluetooth headphones.
The Remote settings pane is one of the most well thought out. It includes model number, large battery display, and multiple screens to help get the most out of the voice remote, “Which ain’t much.”
Device includes PIN and other rudimentary parental settings but nothing as extensive as other platforms.

Search

Search, via text entry, on this device is painful since the remote does not have a keyboard. It’s a “click, click, click” process through an ordered list of alphanumeric characters. Ouch! Luckily, search will begin to display results after a couple of characters.
Searches for content across all applications and does this probably better than any other device I use.
Voice search is atrocious. If you just want an exercise in frustration, be my guest and use it. Think voice controls from the early 2000s. This is not Google Assistant or Alexa. While the Flex includes a weather screen, you can’t ask the device to, “Show me the weather.”

Final Thoughts

The big question I keep asking myself is, “Who is this device for?” It surely isn’t for me or any other technology savvy individual. Anyone who has used another popular streaming device will be disappointed by the Flex. Still, as an Xfinity customer, there are features I wish I had on other devices such as account review, across application search, and bandwidth usage. I mentioned several times in the video (probably too many times), that I don’t see this as a primary device. That role will go to my Roku Ultra, Mi Box S, and nVidia Shield TV.

My guess is this device is for that hardcore Xfinity customer who simply wants a way to stream Netflix and other online services without the research or decision making that comes with other streamers. Xfinity customers who are on rental plans for other Xfinity devices such as home security, router, phone, and online access may see this as a natural extension of those devices. That’s a costly proposition and it seems to me that the Flex really is Xfinity’s last gasp effort to retain a certain demographic of customer as more Americans continue to explore a pure cord-cutter experience.

What’d I miss? Are you an Xfinity Flex convert or fan? Leave a comment below or on the YouTube page and share your experiences or thoughts. You contribution will make this post even more valuable for those considering a Flex. I might not be the right demographic.

OPEN THE BOX: Xfinity Flex

2020-04-24T00:00:00+00:00

Two weeks ago, an email arrived from Xfinity. This isn’t unusual. I’m an Internet only customer (cord-cutter) with electronic billing. The message contained an offer for an Xfinity Flex. A what? What in the world is a Flex and how much is this going to cost me per month?

I logged into my Xfinity account and found the same offer. I read the “deal” carefully. The first device was free. If you want a second Flex, that will cost you $5/month. Ouch…

I placed an order for the box and about a week later; it arrived. It was now time to record a short OPEN THE BOX. That video is below. Afterward, read my additional thoughts.

YouTube Video: OPEN THE BOX: Xfinity Flex

The contents of the Xfinity Flex package include:

Flex - a well designed, stylish, and hefty piece of streaming technology that includes ports found on most premium streaming devices (not a poorly designed box)
Remote Control - a sturdy remote that will control a television and the Flex (not a cheap remote)
HDMI Cable - always a nice addition (not a requirement)
USB-C Power Adapter - a modern connector that gives the device a 2020 feel (not expected)
Quick Start Guide - includes all the information and images you need to connect the Flex to your TV (not that you need them)
Package of Warnings - a thick folio of warnings in various languages in its own folder (not that you will read them)
Help Card - a card that shares how to return the device (not that you will want to)
COVID-19 Card - an explanation about the how and why the package arrived the way it did (not that you will be interested)

The COVID-19 CARD explains why the Flex arrived in the shrink wrap package (which I mention in the video). Below is that snipped from the card.

Please Pardon Our Appearance

Thank you for trusting Xfinity to help you stay connected at this important time. Consistent with the advice of our government and public health officials, we have encouraged our teammates and customers to limit close contact with others as much as possible. This has led to a greater reliance on our self-installation kits.

To make sure we get as many kits to as many people as fast as possible, we have increased production and adjusted our packaging. This package contains everything you will need to set up and install your new Xfinity services, but we felt it was more important to get these tools to you sooner, rather than wait to produce our traditional packaging. We hope you understand and appreciate us prioritizing your service.

What’s next?

Now that the box is open, I look forward to a FIRST USE video where I will connect the Flex to my Cloner Alliance Box Pro, press record, and turn on the Flex’s power. We’ll watch it boot up together, dive into the user interface, and then load a video or two. I’m curious to see how this device compares to my two favorite steaming device platforms, Roku and Android TV.

At first glance, the only real advantage of this device seems to be in the free access to the streaming Peacock (NBC) premimum channel. Not sure if this membership extends to other devices, but will try and find out for the next post.

Are you a Xfinity Flex user? What do you think about the device? Drop a comment and let me know. I’d also love to read about any hacks and exploits users have found before I record the FIRST USE video.

FIRST USE: Cloner Alliance Box Pro (a good tool for retro-computing fans?)

2020-04-21T00:00:00+00:00

In a previous blog post, I shared my YouTube OPEN THE BOX video on the Cloner Alliance Box Pro (#ad). After posting that video, several readers and YouTube watchers (well a couple anyway) asked if I planned a follow-up usage video. I was torn, but decided to give it a try.

I knew the production of this video would push my DaVinci Resolve limits and because of COVID-19, I had time work on the project over the course of a couple of weeks. While preparing the video, I had another idea. Why not try and connect the Cloner Alliance Box Pro to a Commodore Plus/4. You can read more about that below.

NOTE: This post and video should not be confused with a full review of the Cloner Alliance Box Pro. I only provide a first use and thoughts.

Below the video, I have additional thoughts on the device and plans for this video capture device.

YouTube Video: FIRST USE: Cloner Alliance Box Pro

In the video, I demonstrate my attempt to use the Cloner Alliance Box Pro in three scenarios. Below is a results rollup:

Capture video device menus (Roku, Android TV, Fire TV, etc.). [✓]
Capture retro computer (Plus/4, Commodore 64, VIC-20, etc). [✓]
Capture HDMI live to OBS Studio on Linux and Mac. [X]

In the words of Meatloaf, “two outta three, ain’t bad.”

USB Drive and microSD card

I mention in the video that my original USB drive didn’t work. Here’s the link to the brand of microSD card that worked for me without any hiccups.

Samsung MicroSDXC EVO with Adapter (#ad)

I also like the form factor when combined with a small microSD to USB adapter (#ad).

About that Commodore Plus/4

Two Commodore computers were available for demonstration; a Commodore VIC 20 and a Plus/4. I opted not to use the VIC 20 since it has a low resolution 24 character display. I also had a desire to try out the Plus/4.

About six months ago I purchased the Plus/4 on eBay. This is my first Plus/4. I skipped this model in favor of a Commodore 128 (which I sorely miss). eBay listing claimed that the Plus/4 was in like new condition. I was glad to see the Plus/4 boot up on the first attempt (which you get to experience with me in the video).

I had not thought of this prior to my purchase, but the way the Cloner Alliance Box Pro works, it also serves as a wonderful interface between older 8-bit computers and modern HDMI monitors. Now that I know the Cloner Alliance Box Pro works well with the Plus/4, I have several blog post and video ideas in mind.

In the video, I captured a couple of Plus/4 screens using the Cloner Alliance Box Pro. You can view one of those below:

Capture Caveats

In the Plus/4 image above, you will note that the Cloner Alliance Box Pro interface is also captured. This is a limitation (not a deal killer). You need to be careful and ensure that that UI for the Cloner Alliance Box Pro is not displayed when you capture a screen.

The real problem is with video. The Cloner Alliance Box Pro will always display recording and stop at the two ends of the video. To remove the UI display, you will need to leave some time on both ends and then trim the video on your computer. Not sure if Cloner Alliance could fix this flaw in a future firmware update. It seems to be inherent in the way the box operates.

Final thoughts about the Cloner Alliance Box Pro

I was disappointed that I could not use the device with OBS Studio on Mac or Linux. I also couldn’t record directly to those operating systems. A quick email and an almost quicker response (huge kudos to the Cloner Alliance support team) confirms that only Windows is supported at this time. You can read snippets of their response email below:

Thank you very much for contacting and recommending our product on your website. ClonerAlliance Box Pro has two recording modes:

Record to USB storage device
Record to Windows PC.

But I’m sorry that our product can’t record to Mac or Linux PC. Would you please record to a USB storage device or Windows PC directly? We would very appreciate your cooperation on this matter.

Here are instructions for your reference:

To USB Mode:

https://www.cloner-alliance.com/help/knowledgebase/how-to-record-videos-to-the-usb-storage-device-with-hdml-cloner-box-pro
To PC Mode:

https://www.cloner-alliance.com/help/knowledgebase/how-to-record-videos-to-pc-with-hdml-cloner-box-pro

In addition, we will also forward your suggestion on Mac and Linux to our developers for their consideration. We will keep improving our product’s compatibility so that it can be used on various platforms. Thanks again for sharing your idea with us.

Your absolute satisfaction is our first priority. If you have any further issues or questions with our product, please simply reply this email so we can do our best to resolve them. Thanks for your trust!

Mac and Linux functionality wasn’t advertised, so this response wasn’t a surprise, but this would not be a difficult feature addition. Cloner Alliance just needs to add the USB Video Class (UVC) standard to the Cloner Alliance Box Pro (which they’ve already done with their other devices) so Mac and Linux computers can recognize the Cloner Alliance Box Pro as a video capture device without installation of any drivers (suggests this non-developer). This will also allow the device to work with Windows without the need for additional drivers. Win-Win!

Cloner Alliance already has UVC built in to their newest devices, the Cloner Alliance Flint 4KP and the Flint Plus. You may be asking why I didn’t purchase one of those models since the cost is only $20 and $40 higher. Simple, neither model includes that wonderful MMI cable that makes the Cloner Alliance Box Pro work so well recording retro computing. And now that I know the Cloner Alliance Box Pro is also a great retro device interface for HDMI monitors, for my use case, I made the correct choice. Maybe later a Flint Plus will land at my door (hint-hint Cloner Alliance).

In the meantime, I will continue to push the capabilities of the Cloner Alliance Box Pro. As I produce more video, this will surely be a tool that I continue to use to capture video of all kinds to include:

mi Box S
nVidia Shield
Chromecast
Roku
The C64 mini
Chrome OS devices
Pixel devices
and any other device with a standard video out connector

Am I 100% happy with my purchase? Not quite 100%, but because of the way I plan to use the device, my level of satisfaction is definitely in the mid to high 80%. That percentage could rise as I continue to use the device. Time will tell.

I hope you enjoyed these extra thoughts about the Cloner Alliance Box Pro (#ad). Drop me a comment below or on the YouTube page to let me know. I’d love to hear from folks who use it in creative ways and with OSB Studio on Windows computers (since I don’t have one in the house).

LINUX TIP: Turn the Caps Lock key into a launcher key

2020-04-14T00:00:00+00:00

As a guy who uses multiple platforms (Mac OS, ChromeOS, and Elementary OS), I like to ensure that my typing muscle memory remains the same across platforms. On each of these platforms I use the following launchers:

Mac OS » Alfred
Chrome OS » Search
Elementary OS » Albert

Chrome OS is my daily driver. I use both a Pixelbook and a Pixel Slate. Chrome OS devices lack a dedicated Caps Lock key in favor of using that key to activate the default Chrome OS launcher; Search. Over time, I’ve come to really like the use of the Caps Lock key as a launcher and have found ways to map both my Mac and Linux computers to use the Caps Lock key for their respective launchers.

This post covers the process for my Linux computer; using the wonderful and beautiful Elementary OS. My steps should work on most Linux distributions, especially those that are Debian based; however, one part of the puzzle, launching the script at startup, will differ on other Linux distributions.

The process may look daunting to a new Linux user, but trust me, it’s not that hard an along the way you will learn a few things about how Linux operates. Let’s get started.

Create a Bash script

This solution requires the use of a script (unlike my Mac OS solution). Follow these simple steps:

Open the Terminal.
You will be in your account’s home directory but you can always use the command below to verify:

cd ~
To create the script, type the following at the command prompt to load the nano editor with a new file:

nano xmodmap.sh

In the nano editor (or other editor of your choice such as vim or vi), enter the following:

 #!/bin/bash
 setxkbmap -option caps:none
 xmodmap -e "keycode 66 = Scroll_Lock"
 xmodmap -e "keycode 78 = Caps_Lock"

Save the file by typing CTRL + X and follow the prompts to save the file.

The script is now in your home directory. Below is a table that describes each of the script’s commands:

Command	Description
`#!/bin/bash`	Specifies that the script will run in `bash`, not another shell (such as `fish`)
`setxkbmap -option caps:none`	Turns on off the cap lock feature of the caps lock key
`xmodmap -e "keycode 66 = Scroll_Lock"`	Sets the Cap Lock key to be the Scroll Lock key
`xmodmap -e "keycode 78 = Caps_Lock"`	Sets the Scroll Lock key to be the Caps Lock key

The command xmodmap is the magic that makes all of this happen. This command lets you to remap keys with simple scripting. But how did I know which keycodes and description text to use? It’s another simple command; xev.

When you type xev in the Terminal, an Event Tester window displays in the windows manager along with textual information in the Terminal as shown in the image below:

Whenever you press a key, information you need for the xmodmap command will appear. There’s more to xev so be sure to explore this command in detail. For now, you understand how I located the codes for the script.

The next question you may ask is, “Why did you choose to switch the Caps Lock key and the Scroll Lock keys?” I never use Scroll Lock, but on occasion, I might want to use Caps Lock functionality. Instead of removing this feature completely, I just reassigned it to another key that had the word “lock” on it. I thought it was also kind of clever. Some keyboard may no longer have the Scroll Lock key, but thankfully my trusty Unicomp Model M keyboard does.

NOTE: If you are interested in the Unicomp Model M, check out my review of this 80s classic keyboard that you can still purchase today!

Testing the script

Before we assign the Caps Lock key as our Albert hotkey, you have to run the script and test functionality. We will need to use the Terminal again:

Type the following to make the script executable:

chmod a+x xmodmap.sh
To run the script, type the following:

./xmodmap.sh

If all went well, your Cap Lock key should no longer trigger the caps lock light and your Scroll Lock key should now trigger the caps lock light and toggle the caps lock feature. If it didn’t work, check the code to make sure you have everything correct and try again.

Setting the Albert hotkey

The last step is to set the Albert hotkey using the following steps:

Launch Albert.
Click the Albert notification icon.
Select Settings and the settings window will appear as shown below:
Click the button next to the Hotkey: text.
Press the Caps Lock key and it you should now see ScrollLock appear (as shown in the image above) because we have remapped the Caps Lock key to be the Scroll Lock key.
Close the Setting window.

You will now be able to press the Caps Lock key to activate Albert!

Making the script run on startup

The only problem we have now is that a reboot will wipe out the xmodmap script functions. You could run the script manually every time you reboot the computer, but let’s automate this on Elementary OS (again, this step depends on our Linux distribution and the answer should only be a Google search away).

Here are the steps to launch the script at startup on Elementary OS:

Start System Settings (Launch it using Albert and your new Caps Lock hotkey).
Select the Applications pane.
As shown in the image below, click the Add Startup App… button in the lower left-hand corner of screen.
In the custom Terminal text edit box in the lower left-hand corner type ./xmodmap.sh as shown in the image below:
Hit the Return key the script will be added to the default startup applications list as shown in the image below:
Reboot the computer and if all goes well, the script will run and the Caps Lock key will act as the Albert hotkey.

And there you have it

See, that wasn’t scary and I bet along the way you thought of some other ways to automate processes on your Linux box. I’ve been searching for this answer for some time and it took a lot of trail and error before I found a solution that satisfied me.

I bet there are readers out there with other solutions or variations to this tip and I would love to read them. Drop a comment below. If you are interested in my Mac solution, let me know and I might include that in a future post.

OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE: Wyze Scale and Wyze Band

2020-04-13T00:00:00+00:00

I’ve created a new OPEN THE BOX and FIRST USE video and it’s a twofer! Last week I received two packages from Wyze Labs (makers of the insanely cool an inexpensive Wyze Cams (#ad) and Plugs (#ad)): A Wyze Scale and a Wyze Band. I left them in their packages until Easter weekend 2020. On Easter Day I opened them both under the camera, powered them up, and connected them to the Wyze app on my Pixel 4. How’d it go? Check out the video below to find out.

YouTube Video

NOTE: I’m still playing around with DaVinci Resolve and may have gone a bit overboard on effects and music; however, there’s no better way to learn than trying out the features. Let me know if it’s too much.

FUN FACT: I used the Wyze Cam with the new webcam firmware to record the unboxing video on the workbench.

I’ve had the chance to use both the scale and the band for 24 hours. Each received a firmware update and both are working as expected; however, the Wyze Band is exceeding expectations. Listen, I know it’s not an Apple Watch or an Android Wear OS device, but this thing is really handy. I’ve worn it for over 24 hours and during my COVID-19 day in my home office I was able to:

view notifications from the applications I deemed most important
be reminded of when I had to get up out of the chair and walk
tracked my sleep the night before
set a timer for a power nap (using Alexa)
set an alarm for the next morning (using Alexa)
changed the backdrop and appearance of the time (2400 format)
checked on the weather throughout the day
verified my step count
measured my heart rate on the hour

All of this and my battery is still at 98%! I am very pleasantly surprised by this little activity band. With new firmware, the $30 device can only get better. I can’t wait to see what Wyze has in store for future updates.

As for the scale, hey, it captures your weight, puts it in the Wyze app and keeps a log. What more should I ask of this $30 connected scale? Have an idea? Post it in the comments below.

HOWTO & OPEN THE BOX: Convert a Wyze Cam Black into a webcam with Wyze's new firmware

2020-04-05T00:00:00+00:00

On March 31, 2019 and during the height of COVID-19, the folks who make the popular Wyze cam (#ad) released a firmware update that allows you to convert their popular security camera into a webcam. This is a nice philanthropic move by the company and while there are likely to be critics who believe this move is only to sell more cameras, I choose to believe that Wyze is doing this to fill a need during this crisis and honestly, $25 for a webcam that can also be used as a security camera is one heckuva deal! And who doesn’t need a good deal right now?

2020-04-07 UPDATE: Several asked me why I did not test the camera on Chrome OS since I host the Pixel Power Podcast. Great question. You will find that video linked in this post below the original if you are interested in the firmware performance on Chrome OS devices.

In this post, I will demonstrate how to flash a Wyze Cam Black into a “Wyze WebCam Black” with the new firmware and test out the quality of the image, microphone, and sound. Along the way, I also include an OPEN THE BOX segment with a brand new Wyze Cam Black. The black variant is the same as a Wyze Cam V2, only in black and available in limited numbers. If you want to view this segment only, click here.

NOTE: Once you flash Wyze Cam with the new firmware, you cannot connect the Wyze Cam to the app. Wyze also states that they don’t plan to update the firmware in the future; however, you can flash the camera back to the stock firmware when you are done using the Wyze cam as a webcam. Lastly, they claim it has only been tested on Windows and Mac OS. I test it on Mac OS and Linux.

Camera compatibility

This new firmware works with the following Wyze cam models (#ad):

Wyze Cam v2 - Readily available and I have several around our home.
Wyze Cam Black (Not currently available) - This is the model I use to demonstrate in the video because in black, the Wyze Cam just looks more like a webcam.
Wyze Cam Pan - I have two of these in the house and while you can use the firmware on these models, you will lose the pan and scan functionality.

Equipment

You will need the following accessories (#ad):

32Gb microSD card - I’m not sure why Wyze stipulates a 32Gb microSD when the firmware download is only 10Mb! My guess is you can use a smaller device but I’m going to use what they recommend for this demonstration.
USB A to USB A cable - I could not believe I did not have one of these cables in my stock pile of cables! I had to purchase this two pack. Cue heavy sigh.

YouTube Video

A YouTube video demonstrating/testing the firmware installation process that also includes a Wyze Cam Black OPEN THE BOX segment is below:

2020-04-07 UPDATE: below is the video showing the performance of the camera with new firmware on Chrome OS:

Installation of the webcam firmware

If you don’t want to watch the video, below are simplified steps to update the firmware (modified from these Wyze instructions):

Download the Wyze webcam firmware.
Extract the .zip file.
Copy the .bin file inside the extracted folder on your computer to the root directory of the microSD card.

CORRECTION: In the video, I also copy the instructions PDF file. That’s not necessary.
Eject the microSD card from the computer.
Insert the microSD card into the bottom of the Wyze Cam.
Press and hold the Setup button while you plug the camera into a powered USB port with the USB A to USB A cable.

NOTE: You cannot use the USB cable that comes with the Wyze Cam.
Continue holding the Setup button for 3-6 seconds until the LED turns a bright blue.
Wait 3 to 4 minutes (it took less than a minute for me) for the firmware update and camera to reboot. When complete, the status light will flash yellow and blue at the same time.

The camera’s firmware is now replaced and your new Wyze WebCam is ready to use.

Use Wyze Cam as a webcam

Using this Wyze WebCam is as simple as plug-and-play. Here are the steps:

Connect the USB A to USB A cable between the Wyze WebCam and computer.
Test the webcam function with your favorite computer camera or online meeting application.

That’s all there is to it. So how does it work? Let’s break it down.

Review of Wyze cam as a webcam

Below are my thoughts, in bullet form, on the conversion and use of the new Wyze WebCam. I demonstrate the operation of the firmware in the YouTube video that accompanies this post and link to that section, when available, after each bullet.

Installation was easier than expected (Firmware Installation)
No issues with video after the firmware installation; it was simply plug-and-play (Plug-and-play]
The Wyze Cam has a large field-of-view and one much larger than a normal webcam so it may seem odd at first as it captures more of the room that you might like (Video Demonstration)
Video image has subtle colors with very little saturation
Video is not as sharp as say, a Logitech C920 (#ad), but it is 1080p and good enough; especially when you consider this is a $25 webcam that is available now (unlike the Logitech)
The Wyze Cam is designed to work in low light situations and that feature is replicated in webcam mode
On both the Linux and Mac computers, the device was found on every application that uses a camera, even OBS Studio; which on Linux can be a bit finicky (I may even use this as a regular camera on my OBS Studio setup)
The Wyze WebCam microphone is unusable and you will need a separate microphone (Unusable Audio)
The speaker can be used, but expect enough lag between video and audio for it to be an annoyance (Speaker latency)
I could not test on a Windows PC so if you have, please leave comments below
2020-04-07 UPDATE: I did test the camera on Chrome OS and as you can see, the results were the same as Mac and Linux

Final thoughts

Wyze claims this firmware is the first and last version they will release; that’s a shame. While the firmware activates video, it is still in need of much work for microphone and speaker functionality (at least on Linux and Mac computers). I IMPLORE Wyze TO CONTINUE TO REFINE THIS FIRMWARE!

A completely operational firmware will open up the market for Wyze Cams, but more importantly during these weird times, allow those who cannot purchase an inexpensive webcam to tap into your inventory of Wyze Cams so they can telecommute. The microphone must work for these webcams to be useful. If folks don’t have a webcam, they likely don’t have a secondary USB or internal microphone on their computer. Please Wyze, continue development. I’ll be the first to raise my hand to help beta test and we need to do this sooner, rather than later.

What’s been your experience with Wyze Cams? Do you have a spare lying around the house that you plan to convert to a Wyze WebCam? Drop me a comment below or at the YouTube video page. Happy webcaming and remember, “wash those hands!”

OPEN THE BOX: Cloner Alliance Box Pro

2020-03-28T00:00:00+00:00

Time to open the box on a Cloner Alliance Box Pro (#ad); a device that promises to be the one device to capture them all (video that is). This post is not a full review, just a few thoughts and a short eight-minute YouTube video to show what’s inside the box and talk about how I plan to use the device.

YouTube video, OPEN THE BOX: Cloner Alliance Box Pro

Not only do I take the Cloner Alliance Box Pro out of it’s box, I also look at the product’s design, features, and included cables. I even call an HDMI cable a USB cable. What fun! And because that’s not the only error I make in the video, be on the lookout for pop-up corrections!

I purchased the Cloner Alliance Box Pro because I hope to do the following things with the device:

Capture Chrome OS live to OBS Studio
Record Chrome OS tutorials
Capture video device menus (Roku and Android TV)
Capture retro computer screens (Commodore 64, VIC-20, etc)

I’ll run the device through its paces soon and I hope to capture my experiences in a future video and/or blog post.

SIDE NOTE: I’m learning to use the free DaVinci Resolve version 16.2. Amazing video editing software and I don’t know how or why it is free! There will probably more information on that side project in the future (or not; who knows).

Drop a comment below and let me know if you use a Cloner Alliance Box Pro (#ad). I’d love to hear from folks who use it in creative ways and with OSB Studio (if that is possible).

BUILD & CODE: Elegoo Arduino starter kit servo, LED, and encoder project

2020-03-15T00:00:00+00:00

Expanding on my previous OPEN THE BOX and LED and pushbutton Arduino projects, this post provides instructions to control a servo motor with and encoder on an ELEGOO Arduino Mega 2560; with a twist (pun intended)!

This project will not only introduce the student, or new Arduino user, to micro servo control using a rotary encoder but also how to assemble a complete hardware and coding system using custom programming functions (subroutines).

This post includes the components, files, images, video, resources, and steps necessary to recreate the project.

Objective

Using an Elegoo branded Arduino MEGA 2560 (MEGA) (#ad), or common Arduino variants, and various electronic components, create a hardware and software solution that will use a rotary encoder to control a micro servo. Before the micro servo can be controlled, the user must press a momentary switch. When this switch is pressed, a red LED will illuminate indicating the encoder control is now active. When the momentary switch is pressed again, the encoder control is deactivated.

Video

Below is a step-by-step video I produced for this project.

Bill of Materials (BOM)

All equipment for this project, with Amazon links (#ad), is listed below:

NOTE: If you don’t want to source the electronic parts individually, purchase the $59 Elegoo MEGA 2560 Most Complete Starter Kit (#ad). It contains everything you need for this exercise and much, much, more! It’s a great value and is often on sale. You can even view a video I produced that shows and explains the contents of this kit.

1 - Elegoo MEGA 2560: The MEGA is overkill, but is the device I recommend for students. The additional digital I/O ports provide the option to create more complex projects.

1 - USB Cable: Used to upload code from the Arduino IDE and to provide power to the MEGA. /arduino/2020/01/11/elegoo-mega-starter-kit.html

1 - Arduino IDE: Use the link to the left and follow the instructions to download and install the IDE on your computer.

1 - Elegoo Breadboard: Use the breadboard to prototype the project.

12 - Male to male breadboard jumper wires: Prototyping on the breadboard a snap with these wires and you need various sizes and colors!

1 - 1K Ω (ohm) resistor: Connect this resistor between the power source and the LED. This resistor is larger than necessary but will ensure we protect our LED when we apply power. The color code for a 1K Ω resistor is Brown, Black, Red, and Gold.

1 - Red LED: I use a standard red LED as a power indicator.

1 - Rotary Encoder: This device will provide rotational control of the servo motor.

1 - Micro Servo SG90: A micro servo that is easily powered by an Arduino and controlled by the encoder above.

1 - Small 5” needle nose pliers (optional): Used to insert resistor legs into the breadboard. More tips in the video.

1 - Volt/Ohm multimeter (optional): Optional but you should own one!

Below is an image of all the materials required for this build and code project.

Circuit

Below is a Fritzing image that serves as instructions for project assembly. Watch the video if you don’t understand a step or two in the process.

Download Fritzing file.

View/Print a Google Doc that contains a Fritzing construction image and code on a 2 page document. Print and use the document to construct and code your own project.

Programming

Once the components are placed and wired, code the project in the Arduino IDE. Below is the code for this project. Do not copy and paste. Type the code and include your own comments (//) to explain each line. These comments will remind you later what each line accomplishes.

Download the code.

View code as GIST on GITHUB and fork your own copy.

Upload to Arduino Mega 2560

Uploading the code is easy; if the Arduino IDE is installed and setup properly.

Select Tools / Board from the Arduino IDE.
Select the Arduino/Geninuino MEGA or MEGA 2560 from the Arduino boards available.
Select the serial port used to connect the Arduino to the computer. This will vary based on computer and operating system.
Select the upload button in the Arduino IDE toolbar menu.

If the program contains no errors, the IDE will compile the code and send it to the MEGA.

Operation

Rotate the encoder, nothing will happen. Press the encoder button and the LED will glow. Rotating the encoder clockwise will cause the servo to move clockwise and vice versa. Press the encoder button again to disable servo controls.

Summing Up

This project took me much longer than I expected. For some reason, the logic to toggle encoder control on and off required much trail, error, and code refining. When I first started, the code was twice as long! This project introduces users to the power of functions and updates older programmers on the use of these modern subroutines. I don’t see Arduino programmers using this feature often and believe their use is key to bug squashing and troubleshooting. I’m not sure I would have overcome my programming challenges had I not split this program into loop(), servo(), and button() functions.

Hopefully this project was a great way to learn more about the MEGA, the Elegoo kit components, servo motors, encoder, functions, and the Arduino IDE. I would love to read your comments. If you have any, drop them in the comments section below.

Reference

Below is the primary reference for this project:

In-Depth: How Rotary Encoder Works and Interface It with Arduino

OPEN THE BOX: Keychron K2 keyboard for Mac

2020-02-29T00:00:00+00:00

It was time to get a new Mac keyboard. I’ve been using the same Matias One Keyboard for iPhone and Mac for many years. Back in the day, the Matias had a few unique design features and the keyboard provided a typing experience similar to early Mac computers - think Mac II series. The keys are mushy and have a satisfying and hollow feel when pressed that reminds Mac users of the days when Apple created substantial and bold keyboards; not flat and “tappy” slates of plastic and aluminum. Another unique feature of the Matias One was the built in cradle for an iPhone that could connect to the keyboard via Bluetooth. With a push of a button, I could go from typing on a Mac to answering a text message on an iPhone.

Much has changed since the original purchase of this keyboard. I’ve replaced my iPhone with a Pixel Phone, I’ve gone through three Macs, I’ve grown more fond of “clicky” mechanical keyboards, and I like to use my keyboard with more than one Bluetooth device at a time.

Enter my new purchase, the Keychron K2 Wireless Mechanical Keyboard.

This is not a review of the Keychron K2 but an explanation of my purchase and insights to the video I posted on YouTube, Opening the box: Keychron K2 keyboard. That video is below:

Not only do I take the new Keychron K2 out of it’s shipping package and box in the video, I also take a look at the design and features; including the very cool 15+ LED backlight effects package that I will likely never use. Spoiler, I do. Read on.

While this is not a review of the keyboard, I did use this Keychron K2 to type this blog post and have to say, I am impressed. I chose the aluminum body (you can get a less expensive plastic body) and I appreciate the heft and quality this material brings to the product. As I mention in the video, I chose the Gateron blue switches because I like a hard to press key and a satisfying and audible click. A red (quiet) and a brown (gentle) switch is also available as an option.

Other features I already appreciate include:

The ability to connect and control three different Bluetooth devices.
The keyboard design, the key colors, and the font used on the keys provides a modern looking keyboard.
An extra long USB-C charging cable for optional wired connectivity (is this feature available on any other keyboard?). If the rechargeable batteries die, you can connect to a Mac using the included cable and keep working.
Quality quick reference card and instruction manual (see video for more information).
Keyboard feet to add more angle to the your finger’s approach.
The Gateron blue switches are immensely satisfying and I really enjoy the feel of typing on this keyboard. Almost as much as my trusty Unicomp Two Tone Ultra Classic Buckling Spring keyboard.
A huge thanks to Keychron for including the items necessary to switch out keys so this same keyboard can be used on a Windows PC. That will never happen, but I do use Chrome OS and Linux. If I ever did want to move this keyboard to one of those platforms, I have the keys and the key puller to make it happen.
Okay. I’ll admit it. The LEDs are a whole lot of fun and I’ve wasted some time playing with them; however, I’ve landed on the plain and boring white backlit keys. They are reminiscent of an original MacBook G4 I owned back in the day and work well when I’m in a dimly lit environment. I can even control the LED brightness using the familiar keyboard controls on the top keys.
Speaking of keyboard controls, this model has all the necessary top keys, with proper markings, to control the Mac’s media and display. A bonus is the crop key on the far right. Press to activate a cropped screen capture. NICE!

Only time will tell if I can recommend this keyboard for the long haul. Initial impressions are good but a keyboard is only as good as its longevity. I’ve been using a Das Keyboard 4 Professional, with quieter Cherry MX brown switches, for over six years with nary a quirk. It’s still going strong and only time will tell if the Keychron will become my new favorite Mac keyboard. It is off to a very good start, though.

Drop a comment below and let me know if you use a Keychron or if you have any questions.

OPEN THE BOX: Lenovo YOGA TAB with Google Assistant

2020-02-09T00:00:00+00:00

It’s time. Time to leave the iOS tablet ecosystem. I’ve used an iPad for the entire 10 years of the device’s life and have moved from an original iPad to a 9.7 inch iPad Pro. I’ve not used an iOS phone for over five years and want a tablet that uses either Android or Chrome OS to make the useage of phone and tablet consistent.

Finding a good, nay adequate, Google-based tablet is not an easy proposition. Google stopped making Android tablets a couple of years ago. Their last Chrome OS tablet, the Pixel Slate (which I own and love but is too large for bed and table-side use) was discontinued last year. The most popular tablets running the Android operating system are Amazon Fire tablets (#ad). And while they are good tablets, Fire OS is not pure Android and does not use the Google Play Store for apps. This means, no native Google apps on those devices without some “hacky” nonsense.

My search for a tablet took over three months because I had very specific requirements. In January of 2020, I believed I would not find a tablet to meet the majority of my require (see video below) to purge iOS mobile devices. Review coming soon.ments shown in the list below:

USB-C power adapter - I can carry a single charger for both my Pixel phone and tablet.
10 inch or larger HD screen - This will match the current iPad screen size and HD resolution is the minimum for text and video.
4 Gb memory - Android and Chrome OS run on 2 Gb but the experience is infinitely better when devices have at least 4 Gb.
64 Gb storage - I’ve yet to run out of storage on my Pixel 4 XL with 64 Gb.
Fast processor - A sluggish processor means a sluggish user experience.
Stereo external speakers - Many tablets have a single speaker; however, I plan to watch video and listen to music on the road with this device.
Android 9.0 (10 preferred) or Chrome OS - I knew this would be a tough one. There are a ton of tablets out there and I’m amazed that many of them still run Android (see video below) to purge iOS mobile devices. Review coming soon.6.0! At this point in time, most Chrome OS devices available that serve as tablets are convertibles, like the Pixelbook I currently use. I want a pure tablet form factor.
Excellent battery life - Another area where the iPad shines is in battery life. I can expect a good two to three days on a charge and want that same experience on the new tablet I choose.

In January of 2020 I came across the Lenovo Smart Tab with Google Assistant. The retail price was $350 but there was a $100 off opportunity when purchased directly from the Lenovo website. Amazon does not offer this device; probably because it prominently features the rival Google Assistant.

I began to read and watch reviews. Reviewers were generally positive with some mixed comments regarding processor power. Some loved the form factor, battery life, Dolby Atmos® powered speakers, and build quality, while others lamented that the processor couldn’t run the latest games and the speakers caused an unusual bump in the case. Since I am not a gamer, I liked the look of the design, and everything else about the device met the majority of my requirements, I decided to give this tablet a try.

This post is not a review of the Lenovo Smart Tab with Google Assistant, that will probably come later. What this post does do is provide a video I threw together that is an “unboxing” of the device. There was little information about the device and I am hopeful this video will help others make a decision about whether they too should give this tablet a shot. Here’s the video:

The unboxing was a good experience and includes a few surprises. It wasn’t the same premium unboxing experience you get with an Apple product but it was adequate and I didn’t pay extra for a package experience. Before the video ends, I do turn on the device. Let me know your thoughts on the device in the comments below and whether this video helped anyone.

Again, I hope to have a full review review online after I’ve had a chance to use it for an appropriate amount of time.

What's in my technology travel bag?

2020-02-02T00:00:00+00:00

Because of my love of technology, and especially Chrome OS devices, I’ve been asked what technology I take on the road. That question was the perfect opportunity for a short blog post and picture. First, here’s an image of a recent setup in a hotel room. This is the same setup up I use in coffee houses or other remote locations.

In the image above you will notice a dual-monitor setup. This configuration is the key to mobile office productivity. I highly recommend anyone trying to get things done on the road, pack one of a new crop of inexpensive USB-C LCD external monitors (I recommend my favorite below).

Let’s see what devices I capture in the image above. After my Amazon list (#ad) of those items, I also share the other accessories I throw in my bag before heading out the door. Let’s get started:

Pixel Slate - The Pixel Slate is my favorite Chrome OS device to carry. The versatility of using it in laptop mode for serious work or tablet mode for content consumption make it the best single device to pack. The Pixel Slate folio case keyboard has become a favorite as I become more accustomed to its layout and keyboard feel. I appreciate that the folio case/keyboard allows me to angle my screen anywhere from 0 to 90°. For a complete hassle free and reliable experience, Chrome OS is the ONLY way to go.
Logitech M557 Bluetooth Mouse - The slate blue color of the mouse matches the Pixel Slate nicely and Bluetooth means I don’t have to schlepp around more cables or plug in a dongle receiver. I’m fond of the audible click when I press the mouse buttons.
Anker SoundCore 2 - Another Bluetooth hardware device that provides great sound, in a small package, from YouTube Music (displayed on the external monitor in the image above) while I work. Since I also carry a Pixel 4 XL, I also use this speaker and the White Noise app to provide soothing noise cancellation in loud hotel rooms while I sleep.
LePow 15.6” USB-C External Monitor - I purchased this monitor on a whim during Black Friday 2019 for under $100. This external monitor plugs into the right-side USB-C port of the Pixel Slate (it has one USB-C on each side). This single cable provides HD video out and power. The monitor folds up into its own folio case (provided) and is as thin as the Pixel Slate but about 2 inches longer. As a plus, I can rotate the monitor 90° into portrait mode when I want to review longer web pages or write long prose. However, you cannot use the folio case as a stand for this configuration. I recommend you also throw this stand in your bag.

That’s the primary “tech” I take with me on trips. In addition to these devices, I also throw the following into my technology bag:

Anker Multi-port Charger - Charge or power all of these devices at once with a single plug.
Charger for Pixel devices - Always good to include the original charger; just in case.
Extra USB-B/C and multi-connector cables - A couple of each type to make sure I can connect and charge everything.
Rhodia Notebooks - Simply the best journals I’ve tried. The paper has an excellent feel and quality and the pages are thick enough to prevent bleeding with most pens.
Pilot Precise V5 RT pens - Pilot is my brand of choice for all pens and this inexpensive provides the best experience of all the value brands.
Case for Anker SoundCore 2 - Keeps that nice Bluetooth speaker protected from scratches and had enough room to hold a charging cable.
Presentation Clicker - If I’m presenting my Google Slides presentation, I need a clicker. This inexpensive option is works perfectly and even includes a laser pointer.
Roku Stick with Remote - Allows me to take my streaming channels (especially YouTube TV and Netflix) with me.
USB-C to HDMI cable - Sometimes I want to plug my PixelSlate or Pixelbook into the hotel television or I need to connect to an LCD projector for a remote presentation. This cable allows me to do that.
AmazonBasics accessories case - This case holds most of my accessories and keeps them organized.
Lysol ToGo and travel wipes - I also wipe down the hotel remote (you must do this FIRST!) and spray the room and pillows.

And finally, all of this goes into the extremely lightweight and fuctional Eddie Bauer Unisex-Adult Stowaway Daypack. This bag is inexpensive, water resistant, easy to clean, includes outside mesh pockets, and can be folded down flat when empty.

That’s the entire list. My wife often comments that my technology bag is larger and heavier than my suitcase. I can’t argue with her, especially for overnight trips; however, each item plays a part in keeping me more productive, entertained, and worry-free during my travels.

What do you include in your traveling technology bag? Drop a comment below and let’s discuss!

Install Arduino IDE on Chrome OS - now with device support!

2020-01-20T00:00:00+00:00

After my previous Arduino IDE post, I wondered if I could now install the latest version of the Arduino IDE on Chrome OS using the Crostini Linux VM. In the past, you could use the apt package manager to install the Arduino IDE but the version was woefully outdated.

I was confident I could get the latest version of the IDE installed, but then pushed my challenge further to see if I could even connect the Chrome OS device to the Arduino and upload a program. In theory, this should be possible since the latest version of Chrome OS on the beta channel (version 80) provides the option to give the Linux VM access and permission to “non-supported” USB devices.

I was dubious about hardware connectivity; however, with the IDE installed I could at least do some development on my Pixel Slate. Much to my surprise, and after much trial and error, I was able to install the Arduino IDE and upload code to an Elegoo MEGA 2560! I was so excited, I just had to share my process.

NOTE 1: This post was updated on 2020-05-16 with refinements and updates from my readers. Many thanks to those who are making this post even more valuable! Join us by leaving your comments below.

NOTE 2: These steps were tested on both a Pixelbook and Pixel Slate using Chrome OS version 80 on the beta channel.

NOTE 3: I used the Linux guide available at https://www.arduino.cc/en/guide/linux as a basis for these instructions.

NOTE 4: This post assumes you have the Crostini VM enabled on your device. If not, visit Settings / Enable Linux beta.

Before I share the process, here’s a video showing the Arduino IDE uploading code from my Pixel Slate to an Arduino Uno.

Download Chrome OS

Chrome OS’s Crostini virtual machine (VM) uses Debian (version 9 on Chrome OS v80 and now 10 on Chrome OS v82), a Linux distribution. Because of this, we can use the software found on the Arduino download page at:

https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
Scroll down the page and click the Linux 64 bits download link as shown below; unless your Chrome OS device uses an ARM processor and in that case choose the Linux ARM 64 bits download link.
Download the file directly to the Chrome OS Linux folder as shown in the image below:

Extract the compressed file

The Arduino IDE comes inside a compressed .tar.xz file format. Use the Terminal to extract the file.

Activate the Terminal from the Launcher
Because the file is in the Linux folder, the compressed file is in your Linux home directory. Verify with the ls command and you should see a file name similar to the following:

arduino-1.8.10-linux64.tar.xz
By default, Debian does not provide the option you need to decompress a .tar.xz file. You can install the required package using the commands below:
```
 sudo apt update
 sudo apt install xz-utils
```
Extract the application files into the /opt folder. This is a good Debian practice and will keep the home folder clean of excess files. Type the following in the terminal:

sudo tar -C /opt -xf arduino-1.8.10-linux64.tar.xz

TIP: you do not need to type the entire name of the file in the command above. Type arduino followed by the tab key to autocomplete the filename.

Install the Arduino IDE package

Inside the extracted folder is an install script. Use the script to complete the installation using the instructions below:

Move into the new folder created with the following command:

cd /opt/arduino-1.8.10
Install the Arduino IDE using the command below:

sudo ./install.sh

The Terminal is going to throw a lot of scary messages at you, similar to the following, but don’t worry about them:

 Adding desktop shortcut, menu item and file associations for Arduino IDE...xdg-desktop-menu: No writable system menu directory found.

 xdg-desktop-menu: No writable system menu directory found.
 touch: cannot touch '/root/.local/share/applications/mimeapps.list': No such file or directory
 /usr/bin/xdg-mime: 803: /usr/bin/xdg-mime: cannot create /root/.local/share/applications/mimeapps.list.new: Directory nonexistent

 done!

Install Desktop Launcher

This is where it gets strange. You will execute the install file one more time but without sudo.

`./install.sh`

More errors will appear but again, ignore them. When complete, a Desktop folder is created in your home directory (cd ~) with an arduino-arduinoide.desktop file inside. This .desktop file makes the Arduino IDE accessible via the Launcher. Below are the contents of the file:

[Desktop Entry]
Type=Application
Name=Arduino IDE
GenericName=Arduino IDE
Comment=Open-source electronics prototyping platform
Exec=/opt/arduino-1.8.10/arduino
Icon=arduino-arduinoide
Terminal=false
Categories=Development;IDE;Electronics;
MimeType=text/x-arduino;
Keywords=embedded electronics;electronics;avr;microcontroller;
StartupWMClass=processing-app-Base

Do nothing with the contents of the file but ensure it is not deleted. A review of the contents helps us learn more about how Linux applications are accessible by various desktop environments.

Start the Arduino IDE

Activate the Launcher to view the new icon named Arduino IDE as shown in the image below.

lin

TIP: Right-click on the Arduino icon and select Pin to Shelf for quick access.

Clean up your Linux home directory

Delete the original compressed file. This is as easy as selecting the file in the Chrome OS Files app and clicking the delete icon in the upper-right hand corner. Make sure you do not delete the Desktop folder.

Enable USB devices in the VM

USB device support is not activated by default. As mentioned, I assume you are on the Chrome OS beta channel with at least version 80 (see note below). We will enable a Chrome OS flag to give us access to unsupported USB devices in the VM:

In the Chrome Address Bar, type the following:

chrome://flags
In the Search Flags area, type the following:

Crostini USB
Select the Enabled option in the drop-down menu next to the # Crostini Usb Allow Unsupported flag.
Reboot the Chrome OS device.

As of Chrome OS v83, you no longer need to activate this flag.

Connect the Arduino to the Chrome OS device

If you have a Pixelbook or Pixel Slate, you will need a USB-C (3.1) to USB-B (2.0 or 3.0) hub. There are many good options. I recommend this one (#ad). Plug the hub into the device and then plug the Arduino into the hub. The Arduino’s power light will turn on.

If you have a Chrome OS device with an older USB 3.0 or USB 2.0, plug the Arduino to the port. The Arduino’s power light will turn on.

So far so good!

As noted by reader, Nathan Morse, “Let the record show that you must connect the Arduino[-esque] device to the USB before trying to change the Linux USB setting in Chrome OS. Totally works, now! You are a hero, @Steven Combs!” - Well thanks so much Nathan for the shout-out and the solution to a longstanding Arduino clone connection problem. This solutions is reported as working on Chrome OS v81.

Give Linux access to the USB device

Chrome OS now has access to the Arduino but now we want to pass that permission to the Linux VM using the steps below:

Open the Settings application.
Select Linux(Beta) / USB Preferences.
In the USB Preferences flip the toggle to the right to allow the “USB device from Arduino (www.arduino.com)” USB device.

NOTE: The page states that, “Linux won’t remember a USB device after it’s removed.” And it won’t! When you shutdown your Chrome OS device or disconnect the Arduino or the USB Hub, you will need to allow permissions when you reconnect. Luckily, Chrome OS will display the notification below to remind you when a device is connected:

Select the device in the Arduino IDE

Let’s see if the Arduino IDE has access to the USB device using the following steps:

Open the Arduino application.
Select the Tools / Board: menu item.You will see an image similar to the one shown below:
The first step before uploading a program is to select the type of Arduino board. Make that selection in the Board: menu.
Below the Board: menu is the Port: menu. If you followed all the steps above, you should see something similar to the one shown in the image and in the line below:

"/dev/ttyACM0 (Arduino/Genuino Uno)"
Select the Port: menu and you will see one available device.

Load or code a program, upload the program to the Arduino, and test!

What this means

Google continues to refine Linux support on Chrome OS devices. Just months ago, it was not possible to install the Arduino IDE and use it to code and control an Arduino device. While this is still in beta and you have to activate a flag, it’s just a matter of time before this functionality becomes baked into Chrome OS for the masses.

Installation of the Arduino IDE on a Chromebook is an educator’s dream. If you are a high school teacher, you likely use a Chromebook as your “daily driver.” In order to teach Arduino and physical computing concepts, you likely had to pull out a leftover Windows machine from the IT closet for demonstrations. You no longer need to do this! You can now use a Chromebook.

I am very excited about that capability this brings to my Pixelbook and Pixel Slate. As you can tell from the multiple exclamation marks in this post, I am very excited that I can use Chrome OS for one of my favorite hobbies and as part of my job. I hope others find this post helpful. Happy programming!

BUILD & CODE: Arduino Hello World! (build-code-operate)

2020-01-20T00:00:00+00:00

A project that brand-new Arduino users often complete is to connect an LED to the board and create a program to turn on the LED. This is the Arduino’s equivilent of the programmer’s “Hello World!”” I wanted the first student project, for a course I am teaching, to be similar but with a “logic programming” spin that intergrates more hardware and programming fundamentals.

I developed a simple project and one that has been replicated many times; however, this post and associated video will explain each step along the way to allows students to accelerate their understanding of physical computing.

This post includes the components, files, images, video, resources, and steps necessary to recreate the project.

Objective

Using an Elegoo branded Arduino MEGA 2560 (MEGA) (#ad) and various electronic components, create a hardware and software solution that will turn on an LED when a momentary button is pressed and then turn off the LED when the button is pressed again (see video below).

Video

Below is a step-by-step video I produced for this project.

CORRECTION: In the video I state that the int command is initialize. It is not. This command initializes an integer variable.

Bill of Materials (BOM)

All equipment for this project, with Amazon links (#ad), is listed below:

1 - Elegoo MEGA 2560: The MEGA is overkill but is the device I recommend for students. The additional digital I/O ports provide the option to create more complex projects.

1 - USB Cable: Use to upload code from the Arduino IDE and to provide power to the MEGA.

1 - Arduino IDE: Use the link to the left and follow the instructions to download and install the IDE on your computer.

NOTE: If you use Ubuntu or Ubuntu Mate might I recommend my install instructions.

1 - Elegoo Breadboard: Use the breadboard to prototype the project.

1 - Momentary push-button switch: This tiny push-button switch makes a click when pressed and is perfect for the breadboard. The MEGA has a push-button switch. It serves as a device reset. https://www.youtube.com/embed/FcK–sJlcJI 1 - Diffused White LED: A standard white LED with a frost cover to diffuse the light.

NOTE: The red band is often hard to discern, especially if your resistor is blue. If you are unsure, use a Volt/Ohm meter to verify the value. Set the meter to 2k and connect the black lead to the COM port on the meter and the red lead to ΩV port.

5 - Male to male breadboard jumper wires: Prototyping on the breadboard a snap with these wires!

1 - Small 5” needle nose pliers (optional): Use to insert resistor legs into the breadboard. More tips in the video.

1 - Volt/Ohm multimeter (optional): Optional but you should own one!

NOTE: If you don’t want to source the electronic parts individually, purchase the $59 Elegoo MEGA 2560 Most Complete Starter Kit. It contains everything you need for this exercise and much, much, more! It’s a great value and is often on sale. You can even view a video I produced that shows and explains the contents of this kit.

Circuit

Below is a Fritzing image that serves as instructions for project assembly. Watch the video if you don’t understand a step or two in the process.

Download Fritzing file.

Programming

Download the code.

View code as GIST that includes comprehensive comments.

Upload to Mega

Uploading the code is easy; if the Arduino IDE is installed and setup properly.

Select Tools / Board from the Arduino IDE.
Select the Arduino/Geninuino MEGA or MEGA 2560 from the Arduino boards available.
Select the serial port used to connect the Arduino to the computer. This will vary based on computer and operating system.
Select the upload button in the Arduino IDE toolbar menu.

If the program contains no errors, the IDE will compile the code and send it to the MEGA.

Operation

Press the button to verify the LED turns on. Press the button again to verify the LED turns off. If you do not see the desired results, verify the code, make necessary changes, and upload the program again. Troubleshooting is a part of the learning process.

Summing Up

Hopefully this project was a great way to learn more about the MEGA, the Elegoo kit components, and the Arduino IDE. I would love to read your comments. If you have any, drop them in the comments section below.

References

Below are the references for this project:

OPEN THE BOX: Elegoo Arduino Mega Starter Kit

2020-01-11T00:00:00+00:00

I am priviledged to have the opportunity teach a course at our local Purdue Polytechnic Columbus campus. The course is TECH 120: Design Thinking in Technology. The focus of the course is to create solutions to modern problems, using software and hardware, while implementing the basics of design thinking.

During an email exchange with the director of the program (my boss) during fall 2019, we discussed the need to integrate physical computing concepts into the course. I was intrigued. Physical computing basics will significantly enhance student prototypes. After much research, I integrated the inexpensive kit below into the curriculum:

ELEGOO Mega 2560 Project The Most Complete Ultimate Starter Kit w/Tutorial Compatible with Arduino IDE (#ad)

During the course, we will unpack our kits together and go over every component. In preparation for that excercise, and to provide an opportunity for someone who missed the class session, I prepared an unpacking video and placed it on YouTube. You can view the video below.

There are a few errors (aren’t there always!) and as you learn while watching, I recorded the whole thing once only to find it didn’t record! But that’s how you learn; you fail first.

INSIDE BASEBALL: This was the first time I used a multi-camera setup to record video. To manage the video switching, I utilized the free OBS Studio. I know I’ve only scratched the surface of that software’s capabilities and I look forward to learning more as I create additional content to support my teaching, blogging, or podcasting.

The title of the kit is quite the mouthful; as is the entire kit. The kit not only contains an Arduino Mega but also over 200+ components! While I was recording, my mind raced with “maker” ideas for myself and the students.

I am hopeful these kits will inspire students to create more sophisticated prototypes than what I normally see during the semester. This video may also help someone, other than a student, learn more about this kit and inspire them to purchase and create amazing things.

Drop me a comment below if you own this kit or what you think about the video. But please, go easy on me. It is my first multi-cam video. 😉

I am podcasting again

2018-12-17T00:00:00+00:00

Some may remember that many years ago Nikki and I had a podcast centered around Adult Fans of LEGO (AFOL). After a long hiatus away from the microphone, I decided to return; but with a brand new subject: Google services and hardware. The new podcast is called the Pixel Power Podcast. You can view the logo below.

I could go into a long blog post describing the podcast, but I think the website and the first episode speak for themselves (pun intended). It is very much a work in progress and I am slowly getting comfortable behind the microphone again and tweaking the format/content.

There are three reasons I decided to jump back in the fray:

I enjoy researching and learning more about Google products and services so why not share.
I am constantly asked, “Why don’t you teach us about this or that feature.”
I was looking for a way to improve my public speaking skills and podcasting was the perfect tool.

If you have an interest in Google Pixel phones, The Google Pixelbook, Chromebooks, Google Home devices, and/or Google apps I think you will find some great tips and tricks to get the most out of these products and services. Each episode is less than 30 minutes. No guests yet, but I plan to add that feature in 2019.

I hope you will stop by and take a listen. Or you can search for Pixel Power Podcast in iTunes, Spotify, Pocket Casts or any other popular podcast client. Even if you don’t listen, the episode shownote pages are loaded with links and content.

All right, I have to go now. Creating the outline for the next episode! Merry Christmas everyone.

SKETCHNOTE: Civic Lab Training

2018-06-18T00:00:00+00:00

The CivicLab provided our college with some excellent community engagement skills today. Description below:

CivicLab is an institute dedicated to advancing the practice of civic collaboration. Led by a team of pragmatic practitioners, CivicLab creates the tools and frameworks that form the underlying foundation for the practice of community collaboration.

This session was ripe for sketchnotes and a facilitator, who is familiar with my note taking, asked if I planned to capture notes from today’s session. I couldn’t let him down. Thanks to Amber, Jack, and John from the Civic Lab for the excellent day and sketchnote inspirations.

Sketchnote

Sketchnote Type Training Journal Used Rhodia Black Webnotebook inch Dot Grid - I continue to love this journal and it’s my default for all notes, not just sketchnotes. Pen(s) Used Pilot Precise V5 RT Deco Collection - You must check these pens out if you like a great writing instrument with some barrel style!

Sidenote

Is this really my first post of 2018? Wow! It’s been way too long.

2016 top 10 posts

2016-12-31T20:04:00+00:00

Today I took a look at the 2016 top 10 posts on StevenCombs.com. Review of top posts is an annual event. This year though, I decided to create a post to capture and share. Below is a list of the 2016 top 10 posts. It includes the post title (as a link), number of 2016 page views and brief commentary.

Things to know about your new Pocket C.H.I.P. - 16,565: The Pocket C.H.I.P. was a popular Kickstarter project in 2016. When I received my Pocket C.H.I.P., I immediately began to document the cool things you could do with this device as well as some of my own personal tips and tricks. I was very surprised to find out how many found these tips valuable as well as how many times the page was accessed!
Connect Chromecast to hotel Wi-Fi - 5,555 - The Chromecast is a great device, but it is almost impossible to use in a hotel. I found a way, but it is a hack that requires Terminal commands (very geeky). Based on the number page views, many were looking for the same capability. I hope I was able to help others use the device while traveling.
Staedtler Triplus Fineliner review - 4,504 - I use these color pens on a regular basis for sketchnotes. I like them so much, I wrote a review. As I would soon discover on my Amazon affiliates page, many were also purchasing these wonderful pens. I hope they enjoy them as much as I do.
Mirror a monitor connected to a Raspberry Pi on a Mac - 3,154 - Controlling a Raspberry Pi remotely using a Mac was a task that took me quite some time to figure out; at least for my use case scenario. Based on the number of views for this page, others were also looking to control their Raspberry Pi the same way.
My first fountain pen - the JinHao 250 - 2,530 - My first experience with a fountain pen, a Chinese JinHao 250 was also read by many this past year. I’ve not picked up this fountain pen in quite some time. Makes me want to go back and give it another try.
Program Arduino on Chromebook using ChromeDuino - 2,253 - We lost Codebender, an online tool, in 2016 so the only way to program an Arduino on a Chromebook is now with ChromeDuino. It works, but is not nearly as slick as Codebender. We will miss you Codebender!
Monster Digital OTG Cloud review - 1,680 - I’m not sure why this post is popular. I really didn’t like the device and since this post, my OTG Cloud battery blew up (not literally, but it did expand and split open the case), so I’ve steered clear of this device.
Evernote Know How - Duplicate a note - 1,634 - Poor Evernote. They had a rough year in 2016 due to a new subscription model. I was hot on Evernote but moved away from this tool in 2016 in favor of Google Keep and Ulysses (for the Mac). This app combination saves me an annual subscription. My original plan was to do a whole series of Evernote posts. That will not happen; however, my Evernote resources will remain online.
Baofeng GT-3 Mark II tear down - 1,409 - In early 2016 I had a goal to get a Ham radio license. I did not complete this task. This handheld Ham radio was the device I purchased to become familiar with the technology. It’s a great handheld, but something inside the case started to rattle so I broke it to open to fix the problem. Taking pictures along the way created an excellent tear down for the device.
Goodbye TextExpander, hello Dash - 1,159 - Like Evernote, the TextExpander publishers modified their price structure in 2016. This led many TextExpander users to find other alternatives. Dash was my alternative for the first half of 2016. I’ve since moved to Keyboard Maestro for text expansion, but still use Dash as a programmer’s reference tool.

Total 2016 pages views for the entire site = 63,038

How does that number compare to the previous year? During 2015, page views were 32,358. 2016 saw a 51% increase in traffic. The Pocket C.H.I.P. post was a huge draw to the site. This single post most likely led to additional page views for other posts.

What I’ve learned from this top 10 review is that the most popular posts are those that help others to either make a decision or find a solution to a problem. These types of posts are the posts I most enjoy writing.

Fun/Annoying Fact: I wrote this post on New Year’s eve at 8pm. Xfinity decided this was the evening to have an outage, so I had to use my mobile hotspot to publish this post. Nikki and I are still wondering if we will be able to watch the ball drop in Times Square this year. Yeah, Happy New Year to you too Comcast/Xfinity. Sheesh!

That closes out the 2016 blog posts. My 2017 blog New Year’s resolution is to provide posts that continue to be beneficial to readers and expand readership. If you have suggestions, drop a comment below. See you in 2017!

My favorite gadgets of 2016

2016-12-18T00:00:00+00:00

This past year brought many gadgets into our home. As the year winds up, I decided to share my favorites and those I use on a regular basis. Some of these were purchased prior to 2016, but remain useful. I include prices that were accurate at the time of this writing. Below is a table of contents to provide quick access to each gadget description.

Mobile Tech
Audio/Video
Physical Computing
Home Automation
Accessories

Mobile Tech

My routine requires reliable mobile technology. I am frequently not at my desk and the ability to get things done on the road is important. Below are the mobile gadgets that keep me sane and productive while on the go.

Google Pixel Phone

I’ve posted my thoughts on the Pixel Phone, Google’s first attempt to produce a mobile phone of the same quality and caliber as an Apple iPhone. In my view, this is the best Android phone on the market. While the phone’s high cost may cause some to look elsewhere, Android users looking for a pure Google premium phone need look no further. Use this phone on Google’s Project Fi mobile plan to save money on your monthly service and recoup the cost of the phone or pay for it over time.

Get the Google Pixel Phone - $649.00

Acer R13 Chromebook

Google did something interesting with Chrome OS during 2016; they added access to the Android App Store (Play Store) to some Chromebooks. The new 13 inch Acer R13 Chromebook is one of the first (in beta). The more I use Android apps on this Chromebook the more I like it. The R13 is an aluminum convertible laptop. That is, the screen can fold back on the keyboard to become a large touch screen tablet. The R13 includes 4Gb of RAM, a 32Gb SSD, a 2.10GHz quad core processor, and amazing battery life. It’s a bit bulky, but very compelling. For a less expensive plastic 11 inch option, try the Acer R11 Chromebook ($279.00). It too has access to the Google Play store and would make a great first Chromebook.

Get the Acer R13 Chromebook - $399.99

Amazon Fire Tablets

Amazon manufactures Fire Tablets in various sizes. While these tablets don’t have access to the Google Play Store, don’t have exceptional battery life, nor have the most powerful processors, these are the Volkswagen (from the 1940’s and 50’s) of the tablet world. Utilitarian, easy to use, affordable and rugged, these are the perfect handheld devices for the average consumer. We have two extra inexpensive tablets we use to control our home automation, watch streaming video or simply browse the web while watching television.

Get an Amazon Fire Tablet - Starting at $49.90

Anker USB Charger

USB chargers come in various shapes, sizes and capacities. A good one is often hard to find and Anker provides one of the best. The Anker Quick Charge 3.0 is a 60 watt USB charging powerhouse. Anker’s “IQ” charging feature allows devices to suck juice as quickly as they can; and not just one device at a time, but up to 6. Our Anker charger sits in an IKEA charging desk with various cables attached and easily accessible.

Get the 6 port Anker USB Charger - $33.99

I like Anker’s 6 port version so much, I use their smaller 24 watt two port option for traveling.

Get the 2 Port Anker USB Wall Wart - $10.00

Audio/Video

My daily routine keeps me busy, but I build in time for music and streaming video. These are the gadgets I use to view shows and listen to tunes.

Anker SoundCore

A good Bluetooth speaker is important to any gadget loving geek. The Anker SoundCore is the perfect portable speaker to throw into a travel bag. It’s small, has decent sound, good volume and outstanding battery life. When traveling, I use the White Noise Pro app to turn the SoundCore into a white-noise machine to help me sleep and pair with my Chromebook or MacBook to provide better sound for music and streaming video. There’s even a handy dandy fitted DSALL Travel Bag Hard Case available to keep the SoundCore safe while traveling.

Get an Anker SoundCore - $24.99

Amazon Fire TV and Fire TV Stick

Purchased in 2015, the affordable Amazon Fire TV and Fire TV stick are still the way we consume media on our home television screens. With access to major streaming services such as Netflix, Amazon Prime Video, Hulu, Sling, PlayStation Vue and numerous others, it’s the one device that gives you access to the most popular services. You can even pair a game controller, or use the included remote, and play numerous Android games.

Get the Amazon Fire TV - $89.99 Get the Amazon Fire TV Stick - $39.99

TiVo Bolt

We watch premium cable channels via Playstation Vue; however, for local channels we still have basic cable and use a TiVo Bolt to record network shows. The TiVo Bolt includes access to Netflix, Amazon Prime Video and many other streaming services. In addition, we stream content from the TiVo to our mobile devices. The TiVo beta app for Amazon Fire TV streams recorded content to other Amazon Fire TV devices in the home.

Get the TiVo Bolt - $117.99

Sonos Play:1 and 3

These stand alone speakers, with outstanding sound, stream “all the world’s music” at the same time in multiple rooms. With apps available on almost any devices, you can play purchased music and stream from almost any online service. Appreciation for Sonos comes when you have more than one; but be careful, when you have one, you want more so you can fill your home with music.

Get a Sonos - $149.99 and up

Physical Computing

Makers rejoice! This year saw the release of three very exciting physical computing devices. One is an upgrade to a very popular all-in-one computer board and two others come from a new Kickstarter startup.

Raspberry Pi 3

The Raspberry Pi is a staple of the maker community and this past year the Pi received a faster processor, more RAM and integrated Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. It retains the general purpose input/output (GPIO) pins so the board can still interface with devices such as LEDs, motors and sensors. The Raspberry Pi 3 is powerful enough to serve as a viable desktop computer. There’s even an upgrade to the Raspberry Pi’s Debian based operating system (OS), Pixel (no, not the Google Pixel mobile phone), that includes the open source version of the Chrome browser, Chromium, making the new Raspberry Pi 3 a worthy cloud computing device.

Get the Raspberry Pi 3 - $39.95

C.H.I.P.

Kickstarter startup, Next Thing Co., entered the physical computing space this year with their new $9 C.H.I.P. computer. That’s right, for $9, Next Thing Co. was able create a competitor to the Raspberry Pi 3 that includes; 1GHz processor, 512Mb RAM, 4GB on board storage (no SD card required, like the Raspberry Pi), Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and GPIO pins. All of this comes on a board half the size of the Raspberry Pi. The Linux Debian based C.H.I.P. OS includes the Pico 8 game development environment and access to Minecraft. While not as powerful as the Raspberry Pi 3, the C.H.I.P. is an amazing piece of technology for makers, budding programmers, beginning Linux server administrators, and anyone in need of an inexpensive computer for rudimentary computing tasks.

Get the C.H.I.P. - $9

PocketC.H.I.P.

Next Thing Co. also released the PocketC.H.I.P. in 2016. Plug a C.H.I.P. into a board that includes a chick-let keyboard, 5” LCD screen, GPIO pins, 3D accelerated OS with PICO 8 and you have a pocket Linux computer suitable for on-the-go game programming, Linux experimentation and physical computing projects. Next Thing Co. even includes a case that is hackable. Be sure to visit the excellent Next Thing Co. online community forums for support and ideas to get the most out of both the C.H.I.P. and PocketC.H.I.P. Read my 10 things to know about your new Pocket C.H.I.P. post for more information.

Get the PocketC.H.I.P. - $69.00

Home Automation

Amazon Echo Dot

When the original Amazon Echo was released, I wrote all about it. The Echo Dot carries on the tradition of the original, but in a smaller form factor and less impressive speaker system; however, it also comes with a lower cost. We have an Amazon Echo and two Echo Dots in our home. Each gives us voice access to music, information and control of our home automation equipment. Pair the Echo Dot with a good Bluetooth speaker to enhance the sound quality.

Get the Amazon Echo Dot - $49.99

WeMo Switch Smart Plug

The WeMo Switch Smart Plug is one of the simplest and inexpensive ways to build a home automation system. Plug it into the wall, plug in a lamp, use the WeMo app to configure and you can now turn lamps, or other devices, on and off with your phone or tablet. Create rules to control devices at specific times. The WeMo switch is compatible with the Amazon Echo. Configure the the switch in the Amazon Alexa app to control devices using your voice. Welcome to the twenty first century!

Get the WeMo Switch Smart Plug - $39.99

Hue Bulb Starter Kit

A bit more complicated than the WeMo suggestion above, but far more sophisticated, is the Hue Bulb Starter Kit. Unlike the WeMo, that will convert a normal lamp and bulb into a smart device, the Hue Bulb Starter Kit uses smart bulbs that screw into existing lamps. Connect the hub to your home router to connect the Hue devices to a home network. Because this system uses bulbs, rather than outlet adapters, it’s a more streamline solution. Hue provides white bulbs as well as bulbs that can change color (a whole lot of fun during the holidays).

Get the Hue Bulb Starter Kit

GE Link Smart LED Light Bulb

If you own a Philips Hue system, save money and purchase the GE Smart White LED Bulbs. They are compatible with the Philips Hue system and will save you a bundle if you want to add white lights to your home automation system.

Get the GE Link Smart LED Light Bulb - $20.00

Accessories

Any respectable gadget geek will tell you that it’s all about the accessories. Below is a list of accessories that were necessities in 2016.

Anker Anker PowerCore 10000

If you have a mobile device, you need an external battery in case of emergencies or after a long day of picture taking and tweeting. Once again, Anker comes to the rescue with their affordable and powerful PowerCore 10000 with high speed charging. The PowerCore will charge most smartphones three times before its needs a recharge.

Get the Anker Anker PowerCore 10000 - $23.99

Anker 24W Dual USB Car Charger

This 2 port car charger by Anker is the best “cigarette lighter” adapter I’ve used. With 2.4 amps of power it can easily charge a power hungry smartphone in no time, or charge two devices simultaneously. The charger is compact and I keep it and appropriate cables (it comes with one micro USB cable) in my travel bag at all times.

Get the Anker Car Charger - $11.99

Logitech K400 Keyboard

The inexpensive Logitech K400 Keyboard is a wireless keyboard that includes an integrated track pad. It is the perfect keyboard for the C.H.I.P., Raspberry Pi or home media device. Also make a great backup or presentation keyboard.

Get the Logitech K400 Keyboard - $19.99

IKEA STORHÖGEN Battery Charger with Storage

During a 2016 stop to IKEA, and there were many last year due to a kitchen remodel, I purchased this battery charger. I was intrigued with the charger because it was relatively inexpensive, compatible with all rechargeable battery types, includes an LCD screen that displays charge status, and stores 16 batteries (AA, AAA or combination) at at a time. The included wall mount ensures rechargeable batteries are ready to go when you need them.

Get the IKEA STORHÖGEN Battery Charger - $34.99

There you have it; my favorite gadgets of 2016. There were many gadgets released this past year, but these are the gadgets that caught my eye and the ones I use on a regular basis. Have a recommendation? Drop a comment below.

BOOK REVIEW: The LEGO Christmas Ornaments Book

2016-12-01T00:00:00+00:00

In the past year, No Starch Press sent both The LEGO Architect and Geeky LEGO Crafts: 21 Fun and Quirky Projects for a review. On October 6, 2016, I also found Chris McVeigh’s new book, The LEGO Christmas Ornament Book: 15 Designs to Spread Holiday Cheer in my mailbox. I mentioned in my Geeky LEGO Crafts: 21 Fun and Quirky Projects review that I was a huge fan of McVeigh’s style so I was thrilled to receive this new book.

About Chris McVeigh

Chris is well known among the LEGO community. He has an active social media presence on multiple platforms and maintains his LEGO related site at chrismcveigh.com. He is known for his LEGO photography, miniature models and something he has coined as “Brick Sketches.” Chris has great “cred” among the adult fans of LEGO (AFOL) community. I am one of his biggest fans and often share his creations (like the one shown below).

No Starch provides the following details about Chris:

Chris McVeigh is a LEGO builder, author, and photographer whose work has appeared in publications such as Esquire. McVeigh designs LEGO builds and sells kits to make his constructions online. You can find more of his LEGO designs on his website, chrismcveigh.com.

Title overview

This 7.25 x 7.25 inch book is hardbound with a matte cover. It includes 216 color high gloss pages. This book was released in September of 2016 and retails for $19.95 US and $22.95 CND. Amazon pricing is around $14 at the time of this writing. Amazon lists the book as a paperback. This is not correct, it is hardbound. The square shape ensures this is not only an attractive instruction manual, but also an excellent Christmas time coffee table book.

The traditionally bound book includes imaging inside the front and back covers to highlight the models inside. The glossy pages can make it difficult to review details while building; however, that same gloss gives the book a premium feel while browsing. The book is the perfect size. It lends itself well to the tagline on the back of the book, “Merry Brickmas!” You can’t help but want to browse and review this book.

The book, while small in size, is packed with ideas to make your LEGO holiday celebration festive. The intro is short. A single contents page follows. Chris includes 15 builds ranging from heavily holiday influenced Christmas Tree and Present to more non-holiday related builds such as Computer and Burger.

Model difficulty ranges from beginner, Wreath, to expert, Camera. My personal favorite is the “nod to the 80s” Arcade cabinet; in varying colors no less. The amazingly accurate Camera, shown in the image below, is a close second.

Chris includes a retro Computer model that is reminiscent of a 1980s IBM PC. It is shown in the collage below. As a 1980s Commodore and Apple fan, my only wish from Santa is the inclusion of a model from those brands.

The book ends without fanfare and includes a brief blurb about Chris and a link to his page. I highly recommend you review his page to get a feel for his style.

The instruction pages, the majority of the book, provide all the information necessary to create each model. A materials list before each model, and opposite a completed model photograph, assists in the identification of the elements you will need for each build. Build steps are numbered to keep you on track. When necessary, the instructions include arrows to ensure correct placement of elements. I had no trouble following each step and enjoyed the colorful and visual style of the instructions.

Final Recommendation

This is the perfect holiday book to purchase for yourself or as a gift for your favorite LEGO fan. Its smaller size makes it an excellent stocking stuffer. That is rare in the world of oversized and tome-like LEGO books.

Although it does make a great gift, I recommend you grab a copy before Christmas and build your way through the pages. This is a great way to begin your Christmas celebration. The models you build will look nice hung on your Christmas tree or next to Santa’s milk and cookies.

Finally, the models themselves make become wonderful gifts for the LEGO fan on your “nice list.” Even non-LEGO fans, the “naughty list,” will get a kick out of these models. Place the models in a small gift box, or use ornamental string and hang them off larger packages. These models are sure to put a holiday smile on the face of any recipient. If you don’t have the bricks necessary to build these models, Chris provides kits for many of them on his site.

Get your copy today and “get to building.” Christmas is just around the corner and thanks to Chris, we can celebrate and decorate in a very LEGO way.

Three week thoughts on the Google Pixel

2016-11-13T00:00:00+00:00

The new Google Pixel smartphone arrived on my door step October 21, 2016; a day after the official release. I preordered the phone the next day. As Google made the phone demonstration at their October 4 event (see video below), I knew it was time to replace my aging Nexus 6 phone with the new Google Pixel phone.

This blog post shares my Pixel phone thoughts and observations after a few weeks of use. Before you begin to read this post, check out my unboxing images for a visual description of the phone and the phone box contents.

This phone uses the Google Project Fi service, not Verizon. Project Fi works for me and my average monthly cost is around $35. That would be hard to beat if I had this phone on Verizon’s network.

This is a rather long post. Below is a table of contents you can use to jump to a specific section.

Form factor
Industrial design
Screen
Performance
Ports
Speaker
Battery
Camera
Fingerprint scanner
Pixel launcher
Communication
Google assistant
Cost
Final thoughts

Form factor

The move from the Nexus 6’s six inch screen to the Pixel’s smaller five inch screen has made me happy. While I enjoy the Nexus 6 screen, the form factor is just too large to carry comfortably unless I wear a jacket.

A return to the smaller screen allows me to pocket the Pixel easily no matter my attire. The larger Pixel XL’s five and a half inch screen may have been okay, but I chose to save $100 and focus on portability.

Industrial design

Unlike the iPhone, but like many modern Android phones, there is no physical home button on the front of the Pixel. The front is a slab of glass with ports for audio and sensors at the top. The back includes a variance of material between the top (glass) and the bottom (aluminum). I like the look; however, I use a case that covers the design.

Since the phone is new, there was little to choose from in the phone case category. I chose to protect my Pixel with a Smoke Black DGtle Shock Absorbent Anti-Scratches TPU Gel Premium Slim Flexible Soft Bumper Rubber Protective Case. The case fits and protects well for an $8.00 case. In the future, I’ll look for a slimline battery case, even though battery performance is excellent.

There is no camera hump on the back. The phone tapers a bit from top to bottom to accommodate the camera. I probably would not notice had I not read about the taper. I like the look of the phone. It’s hard for a smartphone to look unique nowadays. They all look like a slab of glass surrounded by metal or plastic.

Screen

The AMOLED screen on the PIXEL is gorgeous. Colors are crisp and bright and blacks are black. Resolution is retina (you won’t see any pixelation). Edges are sharp and video is a joy to watch, even on this five inch screen. I have yet to find a situation, either indoors or out, where I am unable to view the screen comfortably. Automatic brightness works well. It is a great screen and probably the best on any mobile device I own.

Performance

Other Android devices I use often feel laggy. The Pixel response is instantaneous. This is the best Android experience and satisfyingly like, well, an iPhone. Everything from waking the phone, via the fingerprint scanner, to firing up the camera for a picture is instantaneous. Reviewers suggest the iPhone 7 is faster and technically that may be the case; however, in my use case, I’m not sure it makes a bit of difference. The Pixel is “buttery smooth” and responsive when it matters.

Ports

The Pixel has a USB-C port for charing and data sync. Like the iPhone lightning port, it doesn’t matter which way you attach the adapter. Unlike the Apple lightning port, many devices use USB-C ports. Google includes two USB-C cables.

My Apple MacBook uses USB-C to charge. I can use the same charger for both the MacBook and the Pixel – something I cannot do with an iPhone. That just seems odd to me. In this way, my Pixel is more compatible with my Apple computer than an iPhone.

My car, a 2016 Honda Civic Touring edition, includes Android Auto. The USB-C cable, rather than the micro-USB, is more convenient and the connection between the Pixel and the Civic’s head unit is more reliable.

Famously, the Google Pixel still includes a headphone jack; unlike new iPhones. I gave up the headphone jack about a two years ago. When I run, I use the no longer available Mediabridge bluetooth headphones (although this rebranded pair appears to be the same). Finally, this headphone jack allows me to use the remote shutter button on an inexpensive selfie stick.

Speaker

I lost the front-facing dual speakers on the Nexus 6 to a single speaker on the bottom of the Pixel. Because of the Pixel speaker location, I often find myself muffling the sound with my palm.

The speaker itself is loud and fine for vocals. I do not recommend it for music or video and suggest a good set of headphones. I rarely watch videos on my phone save for the trending YouTube or Facebook video.

Battery

As mentioned earlier, the Pixel uses USB-C to charge the battery. My Nexus 6 uses wireless charging and I miss that feature. Simply dropping the phone on my charger at night is far more convenient than plugging in a cable. It’s a loss, but one I am sure to get used to over time.

The new quick charge feature is fast. An entire charge takes less than ninety minutes and the 15 minute quick charge (for an advertised 7 hours of use) is a welcome addition to any phone. The charger itself is compact and convenient.

I am pleased with the battery life on the Pixel. This is the first Android device where I felt confident I could walk out of the house in the morning and, with normal use, have plenty of battery life to get me through day and evening events.

There are days when I return home in the evening to find 40-50% of battery life. This is rarely, if ever, the case with my Nexus 6. Unlike the Nexus 6, the Pixel doesn’t drain the battery when at rest.

Camera

A primary concern I have with the Nexus 6 is the camera. You can read those concerns here. The camera speed and quality was one of the primary reasons I pulled the trigger to purchase the Pixel. As is often said, “The best camera is the one you have with you.” This was not the case with the Nexus 6. I regularly missed shots because the camera app was slow to load or crashed.

The Pixel does not have this problem. A double push of the power button and the camera quickly starts up. Pictures, even in low light, are stunning. Check out this low light image taken during Halloween 2016.

I took this shot in a rush and afterwards, was surprised at the quality of the image. The only touchup was to add the vignette shadow around the image.

Video is impressive. As you will see, in this video also taken during Halloween 2016, software based video stabilization is good. I’ve never been able to shoot video this smooth from a hand-held camera.

Interestingly, when I uploaded the video to YouTube, it announced that my video was shaky and offered to stabilize it for me!

I won’t write much about Google Photos, but the integration between the Pixel, Google Photos and YouTube is the most pleasing experience I’ve had between phone camera and online photo/video services. The Pixel comes with FREE and unlimited photo/video back up in full resolution for both (including 4K video). That alone is worth $10-20 per month depending on service.

Fingerprint scanner

My iPhone 5s includes a fingerprint scanner in the lower front of the phone to wake and unlock the phone. The Pixel makes this process more convenient and places the scanner on the back of the phone, as shown in the image below, where an index finger naturally rests when you pick the phone.

Google adds a nice trick to the fingerprint scanner. A swipe down over the scanner reveals notifications and then back up to hide them. With a single hand I can pick up the phone, unlock it and view notifications. It is brilliant and I hope Google adds other gestures to the fingerprint sensor.

Pixel launcher

The Pixel uses the new Pixel Launcher (exclusive to the Pixel). This an upgrade to the Google Now Launcher used on the Nexus 6. Features include:

Round icons
Swipe up to access apps
Tap the top-left (G) button to access search
Swipe right to access the Google Now screen (not new)
Long tap the home button to access Google assistant

And my new favorite features:

Long tap an application home screen shortcut to display shortcuts as shown in the image below (applications must support this feature and many now do)

A recent update adds weather, as shown in the image above

I look forward to future versions and refinements to the Pixel Launcher. It is an improvement from the Nexus launcher and for me, decreases the need for me to look at third party launchers.

Communication

While we use our mobile phones for other tasks besides communication, the Pixel provides many tools to enhance device communication. Unfortunately, this is not where the Pixel excels as you will read below.

Texting

Texting is a mess on the Pixel. Google provides three options and not one single solution is perfect.

Messages - native texting application on the Pixel and most Android phones. Includes basic text features save for one important feature I use on a regular basis; access and respond to texts via the web.
Hangouts - combines text messages and Google talk (Hangouts) into a single application. This is my go to text app because it combines the two messaging systems I use the most. It also allows me to access and respond from a web page on my Mac. Hangouts also has good integration with my Chromebook.
Allo - the new messaging application from Google. In order to use the features in Allo (imaging, Google Assistant, etc), those on the receiving end must also use the application. Allo cannot be the default text application and messages are not available on the web. For now, I do not use Allo on my Pixel.

Video

The Pixel includes two video chat applications; Hangouts and Duo. Hangouts is still my go to application for video chats. Like Allo, Duo could be great. While the Duo application is available on both Android and iOS, I have no contacts who use this application. Time will tell if Duo becomes useful.

Phone

The phone application for Android is good. The large interface elements make usage quick and easy. If Google can identify the phone number’s originator, it will display that information on screen before and during your call. If you want to save the contact, all that information scraped into the call is added to the contact card.

Hold, mute, conferencing and call forwarding are easy to access and intuitive. Two taps is all it takes to export a call log. Unlike iOS, the phone interface (and all other communication apps listed in this section) is an actual application. Google can send updates to the application through the Google Play Store without an upgrade to the phone OS. While I don’t use the phone often, I do appreciate the extra attention to detail that Google takes to provide a good voice experience.

Google assistant

As mentioned above, you access Google Assistant using a long press of the home key. The Google Assistant displays the prompt shown below:

I’ve not seen much difference between Google Assistant and Google Now other than the way you access the feature. It could be my uses are simple and I need to explore the capabilities further. As I spend more time with Google Assistant, I’ll be sure to update this section. For now, it’s a nice feature to launch applications, ask about the weather, begin navigation and set reminders.

Cost

Although the Pixel is $250 more than the Nexus 6, it feels like a premium phone. Additional value comes from the pure Google Android experience. The Pixel does not include carrier adware or bloatware. Updates come straight from Google on a regular basis and are not subject to carrier approval. As I mentioned earlier, full resolution uploads of photos and video to Google Photos is free. There is a lot of value in this phone and it’s eco-system.

Final thoughts

The move from the Nexus 6 to the Google Pixel was more dramatic than expected. After several weeks of use, I appreciate the power, flexibility and stability of this new Android device. This was Android’s last chance for me. Had the Pixel not been a solid device, I was most likely going back to an iPhone in a couple of years.

Google has restored my faith in their mobile operating system and their ability to create a premium mobile phone. The battle within the premium smartphone space just got interesting. The Pixel is a fabulous first attempt by Google to produce a premium, Google branded, phone. I likely will want to upgrade to the next release of the phone (because I always do) but will not due to the now high cost of the phone.

Apple now has a true competitor for the premium smartphone category. Could the Android tablet market be next? Or how about that Chromebook market? Rumor has it, ChromeOS and Android will soon merge. This will create another interesting device to compete with macOS and iOS.

If you have any questions, find errors, or would like to leave a thought, please use the comments section below.

REVIEW: Field Notes Sweet Tooth memo books

2016-10-09T00:00:00+00:00

Rhodia has replaced the Moleskine brand as my new favorite notebooks. I currently use a Rhodia Black Webnotebook 5.5 inch x 8.3 inch Dot Grid. I enjoy the Rhodia because of its high quality assembly, thick/no-bleed/gloss paper and soft feel of the cover. It’s a joy to use my favorite Pilot Precise V7 RT pen to write notes and craft ideas in this journal.

While I enjoy the Rhodia notebook’s 5.5 x 8.3 inch size for meetings, it’s too large to take to social events or drop in the cargo pockets of my pants. I need a small notebook for these applications. For quite some time I’ve heard Myke and Brad on The Pen Addict podcast extoll the virtues of Field Notes. I decided to give the Field Notes brand a try and purchased three items:

Set of three perforated Sweet Tooth 48-page memo books
2 sets of two Byline reporter’s notebooks with receipt pocket
One unnamed set that will be a 2016 Christmas gift for a family member

In this post I review the Field Notes Sweet Tooth 48 page memo books.

Pretty colors

The first thing you notice about the Sweet Tooth pack are the colors. Field Notes describes them as “candy colors.” Unlike plain Field Notes, the Sweet Tooth memo books come in orange (Tangy Orange), blue (Blu-Raspberry) and yellow (Banana Split) as shown in the image below.

You can use these colors to code the contents of each memo book, but I threw caution to the wind and grabbed a yellow pad to my first formal event; my nephew’s wedding.

I took the yellow memo book out of my pocket during the wedding dinner and my sister in-law immediately asked what it was as I scribed a note. The foil embossed Field Note title on the front was likely to have caught her eye.

For the rest of the event, anytime I brought out the notepad, my brother would proclaim, “He just thought of something!” Why yes I did and I finally had a place to capture my thoughts quickly while suited up and separated from my larger notebook.

Quality

Upon first inspection, I did not believe these 3½” × 5½” memo books would hold up over time. The front and back covers are made of the same paper as the pages inside except they are thicker at 100-lb versus the 70-lb interior pages. My concern was unfounded.

I’ve used the yellow memo book for over a month now and it has held up nicely. No torn pages, scuffed cover or noticeable wear despite being thrown into cargo pants pockets and suit pockets on a regular basis. The embossed front cover title has some scratches as shown below; however, I’m quite pleased with how well the memo book has held up; including the spine, which was another concern of mine.

For the on-the-go use these memo books are designed for, they perform admirably. I look forward to using both the red and the blue once the yellow is full.

Writing experience

I knew the writing experience would not match that of the Rhodia I use daily; however, the paper is thick enough that most pens will not bleed through the page. The writing experience is pleasurable. I never dread pulling the memo book out of my pocket to capture notes as I do with small cheap spiral bound pads.

The page absorbs the ink, without spread, and dries quickly. As mentioned earlier, pages are thick enough that I don’t have to worry about bleed. Disclaimer; I use the Pilot Precise V5 RT exclusively for my writing. It is a perfect match with the Sweet Tooth memo books in both size and ink quality. If someone has experience using a fountain pen with these memo books, drop a comment below.

That extra touch

I like the extra touches found in the Sweet Tooth memo books. The inside front cover includes information areas as shown in the image below:

Inside the back cover is a brief history of Field Notes, examples of “practical” notes to include, a very detailed specifications area, feedback instructions and my personal favorite; a ruler along the right-hand side of the page. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve used this ruler. These features are shown in the image below:

Lastly, each page is perforated. Each page can be torn out of the memo book to share or begin an origami project. I can’t bring myself to tear pages out of the book, but it is a nice option in the event I find a need to do so. Unlike some perforated books, I don’t get the sense that these pages will easily remove themselves from the book. As a matter of fact, if you didn’t know they were perforated, you might not even notice this feature.

It’s a culture of products

As I research Field Notes, I find that much like Moleskine, there’s a brand culture. The Field Notes culture is fun to follow and I recommend you visit the Field Notes web site to see what I mean.

Each quarter of the year, Field Notes releases a new themed notebook. As of this writing, the fall 2016 notebook is Lunacy, which is a moon themed notebook. See their roll out, including a snazzy video, here. “It’s just a phase they are going through.” Nice!

I can see why there are Field Note enthusiasts who never miss a quarterly release. Field Notes makes it easy for these enthusiasts and provides a yearly subscription plan. Below is a description:

Four times each year we create a new Quarterly Edition and they tend to sell out pretty quickly. To avoid missing one, and to save some cash, you can purchase a year-long subscription to receive two packs of the current Quarterly Edition, plus two each of the next three, as they are released.

Frequently, you’ll receive subscriber-exclusive items and other goodies with your shipments. Occasionally, you’ll also receive an extra shipment (like this, for example) when we have something special to share. We’ll also include two 3-Packs of our classic Kraft Memo Books with your first shipment.

Subscriptions are $97 and all shipping to USA destinations is included. When Editions are released, subscriber packages ship first.

I am so tempted to purchase an annual subscription! If you like your paper products to have personality, look no further than Field Notes. They’ve even teamed with other brands to create customized products.

Did I mention that these memo books are friendly? The minute you remove them from their cellophane wrapping, you are greeted as shown in the image below:

Gallery

I’ve included many images in this review; however, some didn’t make the cut. You can view more images in my Field Notes - Sweet Tooth Google Photos album.

To buy, or not to buy

Buy, these things are SWEET! Sweet Tooth Field Notes may be a bit more expensive, $9.99 for a pack of three, than other cheap paper note pads, but the quality, fun tricolors, rugged look, handy extras and superb quality will more than make up for the added cost. If you have a paper product fan on your holiday shopping list, these will make great gifts. Grab them before they are out of stock!

Might I also recommend the Field Notes Byline edition, before they sell out, for your journalist/reporter friends? I’m not a reporter, but I couldn’t resist these limited edition notepads. Look for a review in the future.

Are you a Field Notes fan? Drop a comment below and tell me which products you use. I would love to learn more about how these products are used and collected.

SKETCHNOTE: Exhibit Columbus

2016-10-03T00:00:00+00:00

I created this sketchnote during the Friday, September 30th, 2016 morning session of Exhibit Columbus. The Exhibit Columbus website describes this event as, “an annual exploration of architecture, art, design, and community with programming that alternates between symposium and exhibition years. It seeks to celebrate Columbus’ design heritage, while making it relevant to new audiences.”

The morning was ripe with images to include in a sketchnote. The morning session included five speakers (names listed on the sketchnote) with varying topics. My sketchnote is a mash-up of topics from the speakers. Each speaker’s presentation could have been a separate page; however, I chose to capture a single page that includes interesting imaging or quotes.

Sketchnote

Sketchnote Type Presentation Journal Used Rhodia Black Webnotebook inch Dot Grid Pen(s) Used Pilot Precise V5 RT and Staedtler Triplus Fineliner orange

Below is the tweet for this sketchnote. This image is prior to my splash of orange added using the Staedtler Triplus Fineliner.

My #sketchnotes from morning #ExhibitColumbus session. Excellent content from presenters. pic.twitter.com/Gn4PSwGzGA
— Steven B. Combs (@StevenCombs) September 30, 2016

Dedication

This sketchnote is dedicated to my mother who’s birthday happens to fall on October 3rd, the date this post was published.

BOOK REVIEW: Geeky LEGO Crafts

2016-10-02T00:00:00+00:00

Each year before the holidays begin, No Starch Press sends me a review copy of their latest LEGO title. Last year it was the The LEGO Architect and this year it is, Geeky LEGO Crafts: 21 Fun and Quirky Projects. Receipt of these books prior to Halloween has become a fun tradition in the Combs household. It also means a promise to read and review the book; something I’ve always enjoyed. Let’s take a look at this new book by David Scarfe.

About David Scarfe

Let me begin my review with detail about the author, David Scarfe. Below is information from the No Starch press release:

David Scarfe is a Sunday Times bestselling author as well as co-creator and designer of Channel 4’s critically acclaimed cartoon Full English. He is a grade of the Royal Academy School of Arts.

Interestingly, there is very little in the book about the author nor was I able to locate an online presence for his LEGO builds other than the No Starch site. If someone can point me to those, please leave a comment below. Despite my inability to locate an online presence for David, from model number one, it is evident that David knows his LEGO and has developed his own unique LEGO build style.

Title overview

This 7.75 x 10 inch book is hardbound with a matte cover. It includes 128 pages of high color glossy pages. It was released in September of 2016 and retails for $19.95 U.S. and 22.95 CND. Amazon pricing is in line with the MSRP. As with all No Starch LEGO books, the design is unique to the title and fits well with the retro and quirky nature of the builds.

The book begins with a short introduction stating that this is a book of inspirations. The 21 projects are designed not only for the reader to build, but to inspire their own geeky modifications and unique projects.

What caught my eye immediately was the “retro” feel of the projects. From “fuzzy” dice to floppy disks coasters, this book is just full of “cool” projects. If Austin Powers were to build with LEGO, many of these could be his creations.

The intro is short and followed by a single contents page listing all 21 builds. With build titles such as…

space invader space savers
zombie pencil holder
flame toast rack
mounted deer
robot wine bottle holder

…how can you not immediately turn to the corresponding page to see what “geeky craft” David has created for our amusement and build time?

Each project begins with a short description, the build difficulty level (using a creative brick bar graph), and the LEGO bricks required. As an example, below is the first page of the cassette letter holder.

The book then presents the build instructions. Unlike some instructions that note which bricks to use prior to each step, No Starch and David use a system I’ve not seen frequently. As shown in the sample mounted deer image below, new bricks are opaque and existing bricks are transparent.

For the builds in this book, this is an effective technique. It will cause the builder to search for the bricks for each step, but for most of the models, this will not be an issue. None of the builds are extremely difficult to follow.

The book ends with an awkward “Further Instructions” page. This page provides minimal detail on the additional elements required to mount objects or keep them steady. It’s an odd choice to include these at the end and my preference would be to include them after each individual model. These “further instructions” are vague on how to attach things like hooks and magnets. Most adults will probably be able to figure this out, but I can imagine some readers, especially younger readers, scratching their heads wondering how they are going to mount their new giant key holder.

Build style

It is obvious that David draws from his art and cartooning background for these builds. I describe these builds as a mix of 2D and 3D mosaics. The build style is heavily pixelated and “retro.” I’m a huge fan of Chris McVeigh’s work and these models are the perfect introduction to quirky and geeky builds.

2D mosaic models, single level models, include the christmas decorations, flying ducks and hazmat place mats while mosaic enhanced 3D models include the cassette letter holder, cursor bookends and the impressive mounted deer.

The designs provide detail with blocks of color. This is the appeal of David’s models. Think Minecraft meets LEGO. Wait! That’s been done. Nevertheless, this is still a valid analogy because each of these models would be at home inside the world of Minecraft.

Final Recommendation

As a child of the 70s and 80s, many of these models “speak” to me; especially the space invader space savers and cassette letter holder. Younger generations will enjoy the rubber ducky and Christmas decorations. What David and No Starch have created is a book that can be enjoyed by LEGO fans of all ages.

This is a wonderful book to have handy throughout the holiday season. Parents will enjoy the nostalgia inside the book, while children will be itching to grab their tub of LEGO bricks and begin building Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas and other holiday decorations or even gifts.

I can tell that a lot of love and attention goes into each No Starch LEGO book. This love and attention makes it hard for me not to recommend their titles. This is a “must” buy for fans of quirky and geeky LEGO builds. It will also be popular with LEGO fans who want to learn build techniques that they can use to build useful models around the home; such as the cassette letter holder, retro controller phone station or giant key holder. Get your copy today and I dare you not to open it until Christmas.

SKETCHNOTE: Edward Tufte seminar

2016-09-01T00:00:00+00:00

On Friday, August 26th, 2016 I had the opportunity to attend the EDWARD TUFTE: PRESENTING DATA AND INFORMATION one-day seminar at the Westin in Chicago, Illinois. I generated a sketchnote during the session as I will describe below.

Description

I was excited to create a sketchnote for this session given that the presentation involves the display of data and information. My sketchnote would need a full open spread and I chose to rotate my Rhodia notebook 90º. I came prepared with my Staedtler Triplus Fineliners to highlight.

My first intent was to use four or five colors; however, I knew my plans were in trouble when the session started with the lights completely turned off. The glow of a single light shined on Tufte’s podium. It would be another 20 minutes before the house lights were raised and I could begin my notes. Unfortunately, I missed the capture of several key points. Later that morning, I chose to use a single color, yellow, rather than four or five.

Overall, I am pleased with my sketchnote. I’m still getting the hang of the process and the choice of ideas to capture. My latest decision is to only capture notes that really “speak to me” and provide an interesting visual to allow for recall after the session.

As for the session; it is recommended. It’s a bit pricey, but you receive some really good information. You also walk home with four great books to remind and reinforce concepts.

Sketchnote

Sketchnote Type Presentation Journal Used Rhodia Black Webnotebook inch Dot Grid Pen(s) Used Pilot Precise V5 RT and Staedtler Triplus Fineliner yellow

As of this writing, the tweet below of this sketchnote was my most popular. It even came with some kind comments and, for me, numerous retweets.

@EdwardTufte seminar complete. Compelling workshop on presentation of data and info. Highly recommended. #sketchnote pic.twitter.com/88f1fRNhu9
— Steven B. Combs (@StevenCombs) August 26, 2016

Dedication

This sketchnote is dedicated to the two colleagues from the Community Education Coalition that traveled with me to attend this session: Jack Hess and Amber Fischvogt. It was great to get to know the two of them better during our lunch and evening dinners in Chicago.

HOWTO: Program C.H.I.P. with Python to control LED

2016-08-14T00:00:00+00:00

The C.H.I.P. packs a lot of power into a tiny board that includes both Bluetooth and Wi-Fi. It’s the perfect combination of small size and performance to power physical computing projects.

I recently built a tracked robotic platform, shown in the image below, for a physical computing presentation. My platform uses an Arduino; however the Arduino is too large, has limited capabilities, and does not include Bluetooth and Wi-Fi. The C.H.I.P. corrects these deficiencies and is half the cost of the Arduino. The C.H.I.P. seems perfect for this project.

My goal for this post is to configure a C.H.I.P. so it can serve as the brain for my tracked robotic platform. I will install a complete Python GPIO development environment on the C.H.I.P. To test the environment, I will connect an LED to the GPIO pins and create two Python programs to turn an LED on and off.

Flash the C.H.I.P. without a GUI
Connect C.H.I.P. to network
Set the locale
Set timezone
Install Git
Install Python
Install the Python GPIO Library
Connect LED to the C.H.I.P.
Turn the LED on
Turn the LED off
Hello World

Flash the C.H.I.P. without a GUI

A graphical user interface is not needed. My flash the C.H.I.P. post provides instructions to flash the C.H.I.P. Choose the latest (v4.4 as of this writing) headless image to flash.

Connect C.H.I.P. to network

My flash the C.H.I.P. post demonstrates how to add the C.H.I.P. to a network so you can connect via SSH.

Alternatively: Use a USB-OTG serial connection, instructions found in the flash the C.H.I.P. post, without the need to connect the C.H.I.P. to a network.

Set the locale

Use the Terminal command below to set the locale of the chip to ensure keyboard commands are geographically correct:

sudo apt-get update && sudo apt-get install locales && sudo dpkg-reconfigure locales && sudo locale-gen

Set timezone

Use the command below to set the time zone to ensure the onboard clock is accurate:

sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata

This is important if you use time-based Python event programming.

Install Git

The Python GPIO library requires Git. Use the command below to install Git:

sudo apt install git

Learn what Git can do. It is a valuable tool to use when programming.

Install Python

Use the command below to install the Python programming language:

sudo apt install python

Install the Python GPIO Library

Python on the C.H.I.P. requires a library to address and provide access to the GPIO pins. Use the library and instructions (also found below) from the GitHub site below:

https://github.com/xtacocorex/CHIP_IO

Optional: Before you begin the lengthy commands below, I recommend you replace the default bash shell with the fish shell. You can find more information on my fish and C.H.I.P.s post.

Use the commands below to install the Python library:

sudo apt update
sudo apt install git build-essential python-dev python-pip flex bison -y
git clone https://github.com/atenart/dtc
cd dtc
make
sudo make install PREFIX=/usr
cd ..
git clone git://github.com/xtacocorex/CHIP_IO.git
cd CHIP_IO
sudo python setup.py install
cd ..
sudo rm -rf CHIP_IO

To use the GPIO library and access the pins, include the Python import command below at the beginning of your program:

import CHIP_IO.GPIO as GPIO

Similar to GPIO use on a Raspberry Pi, configure GPIO connections as inputs or outputs. This is done within the Python code. I will share the code after I attach an LED to the C.H.I.P.

Connect LED to the C.H.I.P.

Connect the LED to GPIO pins labeled CSID0 and GND as shown in the image below. You will note that I have an inline 1K ohm resistor to protect the LED, GPIOs and C.H.I.P.

WARNING: Please read this warning from fordsfords on the Next Thing Co. BBS. He correctly notes that originally I did not include an inline 1 to 10K resistor. The particular LED I use has a high internal resistance (to protect the GPIO from burn out) and is an LED I use for this type of experimentation frequently. While not required, I made an update to this post and the image to include an inline 1K ohm resistor as a safety buffer.

Connect the LED long wire (anode - positive) to the resistor and then to GPIO pin CSID0.

Connect and the short wire (cathode - negative) to GPIO pin GND.

If you don’t have LEDs, I recommend this batch from Amazon or stop by your local Radio Shack.

Turn the LED on

Now the fun begins. Create a Python program on the C.H.I.P. to the LED on.

Ensure there is still an SSH or Serial connection to the C.H.I.P.

Type the following:

nano led-csid0-on.py

The nano editor will load a blank page.

Enter the code below into the nano editor:

import CHIP_IO.GPIO as GPIO     #import the GPIO library
GPIO.setup("CSID0", GPIO.OUT)   #set CSID0 as an output
GPIO.output("CSID0", GPIO.HIGH) #set CSID0 (LED) HIGH (On)

I include comments (after the # character) that are not necessary.

To save the code on the C.H.I.P. and exit the nano editor, tap: control + x

The nano editor will prompt you to save the code as shown in the image below.

Press y followed by ↩ to save the code and exit the editor. The Python code is now on the C.H.I.P. Time to give it try.

Use the command below to execute the Python program to turn the LED off:

sudo python led-csid0-on.py

If the [sudo] password for chip: prompt appears, enter the default: chip

If all goes well (and I didn’t fat-finger any of the instructions) the LED will light up! If it didn’t turn on, troubleshoot the following:

Is the LED connected properly?
Is the Python program correct?
Did you use the correct command to run the program?
Did you include sudo at the beginning of the command (this is required)?
Did you receive any errors after running the Python program assist with problem resolution?

Now we need to turn off the LED. Don’t unplug the LED or reboot the C.H.I.P. We will repeat the instructions in this step and create a Python program to the LED off.

Turn the LED off

With the current SSH or serial connection, type the following:

nano led-csid0-off.py

The nano editor will load a blank page.

Enter the code below into the nano editor. Again, you can exclude comments.

import CHIP_IO.GPIO as GPIO      #import the GPIO library
GPIO.setup("CSID0", GPIO.OUT)    #set CSID0 as an output
GPIO.output("CSID0", GPIO.LOW)   #set CSID0 (LED) LOW (OFF)

To save the code to the C.H.I.P. type: control + x

The nano editor will prompt you to save the code. Press y followed by ↩ to save the code and exit the editor. The Python code is now on the C.H.I.P.

Let’s see if we can turn the LED off. Use the command below to turn the LED off:

sudo python led-csid0-off.py

If the [sudo] password for chip: prompt appears (and it may not this time), enter the default: chip

The LED will turn off. It did turn off, right? If not, follow the troubleshooting steps in the Turn the LED on section above.

Hello World

The Python code above is the physical computing equivalent to the popular “hello world” programs found in beginning programming classes and tutorials. The difference is that we use an LED connected to the C.H.I.P. as our output instead of words on the screen.

In other words, you now have the basics necessary to begin experiments with Python and the GPIO pins on the C.H.I.P. The physical computing world is now just an idea away. What will you create with your GPIO pins active? Drop a comment below and let me know.

HOWTO: Fish on C.H.I.P.s

2016-08-13T00:00:00+00:00

The PocketC.H.I.P. keyboard can be a bit of bear when trying to enter long commands in the Terminal. C.H.I.P. comes with bash as the default Terminal shell (as do most Debian Linux distributions). However, we are not confined to this shell. You can install others and the one I find particularly suited to the PocketC.H.I.P. is a shell called fish. That’s right, fish and C.H.I.P.s! What could be more tasty? This combination will shorten lengthy commands and make that PocketC.H.I.P. keyboard more enjoyable to use.

Why `fish`?

Below are the reasons I find fish the perfect match for the PocketC.H.I.P.; or any C.H.I.P. for that matter:

uses ⇥ (tab) to complete long character strings while the fish shell autosuggests commands
remembers all previous commands without a ↑ or ↓ keystroke (see below)

includes the familiar * wildcard to ls and cat commands
includes syntax highlights (red text indicates an invalid command, blue text indicates valid commands and underlined strings are valid paths)
includes loops and functions
provides robust startup scripting in an easy to manage file (~/.config/fish/config.fish)

There is much more to explore and users whose Linux-foo is stronger than mine will appreciate the additional features. Browse the fish tutorial page to learn more.

Install `fish`

Installation of fish begins with a quick series of apt commands as shown below:

sudo apt update
sudo apt upgrade
sudo apt install fish

The fish shell is now ready to use.

Go `fish`ing

To use the fish shell, fire up the Terminal. At the command prompt type:

fish

The terminal will respond with the following prompt:

Welcome to fish, the friendly interactive shell
Type help for instructions on how to use fish
chip@pocketchip ~>

Use fish and issue Terminal commands. Give it a shot and type the ls command. As shown in the image below and on your own PocketC.H.I.P., the list is now color coded and syntax highlighting is in effect. The effect is really great on the PocketC.H.I.P. screen.

Try the sudo command next. The fish shell will “autosuggest” the remainder of the string. If the fish shell autocompletes the command you need, hit the ⇥ (tab) key and it will complete the string. A real thumb-saver on the PocketC.H.I.P. keyboard.

Make `fish` the default shell

If you want to make fish the default Terminal shell, use the command below:

chsh -s `which fish`

You will receive a prompt to enter your password. Use the default chip password (unless of course you have changed it).

Reboot the PocketC.H.I.P. and launch the Terminal. You will see the Welcome to fish prompt appear as shown in the image below.

This indicates that fish is now the default terminal shell.

Yummy `fish` and C.H.I.P.s

I’ve used the fish and C.H.I.P.s configuration for about a week and really like it. I’ve installed fish on both my regular C.H.I.P. and Mac with additional plans to add to a couple of Raspberry Pis. The features fish provides are great for all keyboards; however, if I had not been looking for a way to reduce typing on my PocketC.H.I.P., I would never have been exposed to this wonderful bash shell replacement. Chock up another good learning experience to the PocketC.H.I.P.

Anyone else using fish? Share your tips and tricks in the comments below so we can share ways to get the most out of this shell and our PocketC.H.I.P.s.

HOWTO: Make a Mac to C.H.I.P. USB OTG serial connection

2016-08-07T00:00:00+00:00

A key feature of the C.H.I.P. is the 4Gb onboard flash memory. Unlike a Raspberry Pi, the C.H.I.P. does not require a microSD card (making the cost to operate a C.H.I.P. even less than a Raspberry Pi). You simply connect the C.H.I.P. to your computer and “flash” the C.H.I.P. operating system. Once flashed, you don’t even need a monitor or keyboard to begin using thanks to Next Thing Co’s foresight to include a USB On-The-Go (OTG) connection.

USB OTG on a Windows box using Putty is documented online; however, I’ve yet to find specific details on how to make this connection on a Mac. After several failed attempts, I was able to make a USB OTG connection using my Mac. This post documents my process.

Flash the C.H.I.P.

Before a C.H.I.P. will work out of the box with a USB OTG connection, you need to install the latest operating system (OS). Choose the latest version (as of this writing 4.4). You will use the Chrome browser and the C.H.I.P. Flasher application to do this:

Load the Chrome browser.
Navigate to the C.H.I.P. Flasher page at: http://flash.getchip.com/. Chrome will prompt you to install the Flasher application.
Click through to install.
Once the Flasher is installed, the Flasher page will present several version of the C.H.I.P. OS as shown in the image below:
Before you flash the C.H.I.P., place a jumper between the C.H.I.P. FEL and GRND pins as shown in the image below: TIP: If you don’t have a jumper wire, you can use a paper clip or a pipe cleaner.
Use a microUSB cable and plug the micro connector into the C.H.I.P. and the standard USB connector into the Mac.
On the Flasher web page, click the image to flash. The C.H.I.P. Flasher application will load and begin the flash process as shown in the image below: It will take awhile, so kick back and relax as you contemplate the wonderful things are are going to do with your $9 computer.
Once flashing is complete, click the EXIT FLASHER area at the bottom of the dialog box and unplug the chip from the USB cable.
Remove the jumper from pins REL and GND.
Reconnect the C.H.I.P. to the Mac without the jumper. The C.H.I.P. will begin the boot process.

The use of a serial connection is baked in by the developers and is a very cool way to connect your C.H.I.P. to your home Wi-Fi and begin using your C.H.I.P. immediately. Let’s get to the fun stuff now.

Determine USB identification

This is a bit tricky, so follow closely. Load the Terminal application on the Mac and issue the command below.

ls /dev/tty*

You will see a long list of tty devices similar to the image below:

Most likely, the C.H.I.P. tty device is not on the current page. Use the arrow keys and scroll up. Look for a tty device with the following format:

/dev/tty.usbmodemXXXX where XXXX is a four digit number

Write down that four digit number, or better yet, write that entire line with the four digit numbers. In my case, I have the following serial device name:

`/dev/tty.usbmodem2623 `

Connect using a Serial Terminal

The Mac has a serial connection command built-in called screen and we will use the screen command to make a serial connection to the C.H.I.P. so we can issue commands on the C.H.I.P.

Use the command below (remember to substitute XXXX for your four digit number) to establish a serial connection to the C.H.I.P.: screen /dev/tty.usbmodemXXXX 115200 The 115200 (115,200bps) at the end of the command is the connection speed between the Mac and the C.H.I.P.

If the connection is successful, the C.H.I.P. will promote you for a username and password. The defaults are below:

username: chip password: chip

After the login process, you will see the prompt in the image below:

You can now issue commands to the C.H.I.P. I will not discuss the many possibilities; however, I do want to share two useful things we can do with the C.H.I.P. and this serial connection:

Connect the C.H.I.P. to Wi-Fi
Determine the C.H.I.P. IP address

Once you do these two things, you can untether your C.H.I.P. from your Mac and administer it remotely.

Connect C.H.I.P. to Wi-Fi

To connect your C.H.I.P. to your Wi-Fi network, first see that your C.H.I.P. can access your network. Scan the Wi-Fi spectrum with the command below:

nmcli device wifi list

You will see a listing similar to the one below:

If you see the name of your Wi-Fi network (along with others depending on the proximity to your neighbors), you are ready to make a connection.

Use the command below:

sudo nmcli device wifi connect 'SSID' password 'password' ifname wlan0

Remember to make the substitutions to include your Wi-Fi SSID and password.

The C.H.I.P. will ask for a password. This is the C.H.I.P. user password, chip, not the Wi-Fi password. You will type blind and will not see the password or * placeholders.

Enter chip and hit the enter key. After a second or two, you will see a line similar to the following:

Connection with UUID '211yui4-d0fc-601c-4ddeb-3b4f5z690d0b' created and activated on device 'wlan0'

Success! The C.H.I.P. will remember the Wi-Fi connection even after a reboot.

Now determine the C.H.I.P. IP address so you can untether the C.H.I.P. from the Mac and make a remote connection via SSH.

TIP After I wrote this post, I discovered a visual way to configure the Wi-Fi network. Issue the nmtui command and you will see a terminal “blue-box” that will guide you through this process using a terminal dialog box. Pretty slick.

Determine IP Address

To determine the C.H.I.P. IP address, use the command below:

ip add show

The C.H.I.P. will display IP information. Look for your local network IP range and write it down. At this point, I recommend you also write down the MAC address of the device.

The IP address will likely change if you reboot your device often. I recommend you configure your Wi-Fi router so it receives the same IP address each time the C.H.I.P. connects to the network.

You can also assign a hostname that assigns a name to the device such as:

chip.local

You should be able to find instructions for both of these tips with a quick Google search.

Use the C.H.I.P. untethered

You can now use the C.H.I.P. untethered. To close the serial connection, type:

exit

Leave the C.H.I.P. plugged into the Mac and connect via SSH. You can also plug the C.H.I.P. into a power source anywhere in your home and connect via SSH and allow your C.H.I.P. to become a server.

If you flash the C.H.I.P. with a GUI, you can control the C.H.I.P. using that GUI if you follow my x11vnc instructions.

Feedback

Let me know if there is an error in my write-up using the comments below. It’s a lengthy post and I may have fat-fingered a step. I hope Mac users with a new C.H.I.P. find this useful. It took me some time and troubleshooting to figure this out, but I learned a lot along the way.

What will you do with your untethered C.H.I.P.? I would love to read your ideas. Drop those in the comments as well.

HOWTO: Project Fi bricks meet Pocket C.H.I.P.

2016-07-30T00:00:00+00:00

In November of 2015, Project Fi (Google’s mobile phone service), sent out Happy Holidays kits to their users. Inside the kit were Project Fi building bricks. Many folks online inaccurately called them LEGO bricks. These bricks are definitely not manufactured by LEGO. They have “fi” on the stud and the quality is not up to LEGO manufacturing standards.

Thanks to the folks over at Next Thing Co. for making this build a feature of their August 11, 2016 blog post. If you are coming over from their post, WELCOME! Also be sure to check out a few of my other C.H.I.P. related posts. Many more to come.

The Happy Holidays kit is a followup to the Project Fi welcome kits that were sent out to early adopters of Project Fi. Using bricks in the Happy Holidays kit, you build a stand for a Nexus 6 phone, the only phone available on Project Fi at that time. You can see Google’s design in the image below.

I could never bring myself to break open the pack. I didn’t need a stand for my Nexus 6 so the kit remained on my shelf until today. I was sitting at my desk and trying out a Logitech K400 plus keyboard with my Pocket C.H.I.P. Normally, I place a pencil in one of the provided holes to support the Pocket C.H.I.P. in a vertical position. I couldn’t find a pencil. Instead, I stumbled upon the Project Fi Happy Holidays kit. I wondered if I could quickly build a stand for my Pocket C.H.I.P.

For the first time, I broke open the bag of bricks and began building. To my surprise, I was able to quickly create a stand for my Pocket C.H.I.P. that was both functional and good looking. Well, as good looking as the bricks and colors provided allow. I now present what I call the Pocket C.H.I.P. Building Brick Dock. Even if you do not have the Project Fi kit, this bock can easily be built using LEGO bricks.

Below you will find an image gallery with descriptions beneath each image. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave them at the end of the post.

The Pocket C.H.I.P. Building Brick Dock complete with a Logitech Keyboard and a Music Bullet portable speaker. Yes, that is a C.H.I.P. to the left.

Front view with Pocket C.H.I.P. firmly in place and balanced nicely so it does not tip forward or backward.

Side view of my stair-step design. The Project Fi brick selections do not provide many design options.

In this image you can see the back of the dock as well as “fi” on the top of each stud. Color variations in the bricks provide a bit of visual interest.

Leaning the Pocket C.H.I.P. forward a bit, you can see how I use angled bricks and a flat plat with the S.N.O.T. (studs not on top) technique to create a flat resting service for the back of the Pocket C.H.I.P.

Isometric view of the entire dock design.

Detail view of the angled resting surface and interior.

Back view of the dock.

I slide the Pocket C.H.I.P. into the dock. It is surprising how close the width tolerance of the Pocket C.H.I.P. was to my design. It really does fit like a glove. This made me wonder if the folks at Next Thing Co. are LEGO fans and actually made the width specifically for this type application.

I built in an integrated V shape to provide access to, and visually point out, the home/power button.

Things to know about your new Pocket C.H.I.P.

2016-06-28T00:00:00+00:00

I’ve had fun playing with the Pocket C.H.I.P. since it landed on my door. ~~While I do plan to write a full review at some point~~, for now, I have ten things to share that might be of interest to new users of the geekiest gadget I have ever owned.

New updates and additions on: December 18, 2016

Table of contents below so you can jump to a specific section.

A browser is built in
Use a Terminal browser
Help is available
Use the app switcher
Tiny screen
Calibrate the touch screen
Play retro style games and learn to program
Use as a calculator
Use a full-size keyboard
Control from a computer
Play Minecraft
Learn Linux Terminal commands
Watch Star Wars
Replace the bash
Bonus tips from the community

A browser is built in

The Pocket C.H.I.P. has a built in browser called surf.

Try this: in the Terminal type:

surf google.com

The Google search page will load. You will most likely have to scroll up/down and left/right to see the page. This is a very rudimentary browser with no user interface save for the scroll bars and some keystroke combinations (see below). In a pinch though, it is useful. To exit the browser, use the ctrl + q keyboard combination.

Try This: Reader buergi provided the surf keystrokes below:

ctrl + g: goto URL (opens URL bar) ctrl + h: back ctrl + l: forward ctrl + r: reload ↑ or ↓ or → or ←: select Link ctrl + u or i or j or k: scroll ctrl + ↑ or ↓ or → or ←: scroll ctrl + b: scroll pagewise ctrl + o: switch between page/source ctrl + f or ctrl + /: search in page ctrl + n: next result ctrl + shift + n: previous result ctrl + q: quit

Use a Terminal browser

Download a terminal text-based browser to provide quick access to information (sans graphics). A couple of my favorites include w3m, lynx and elinks.

Try this: Install elinks using the following terminal commands:

sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get install elinks

When the installation is complete try this:

elinks stevencombs.com

The Terminal will display this site in all its text-based glory. Use the tab and arrow keys to navigate.

Help is available

There is an excellent online bulletin board system (BBS) full of users and Next Computing staff to provide assistance and support. It is located at https://bbs.nextthing.co/. The community is quick to answer questions. Be sure to search the BBS before you post a question. You will most likely find an answer immediately. Before heading to the BBS though, review the documentation at:

http://docs.getchip.com/pocketchip.html

The BBS community has been instrumental into the quality and accuracy of this post. Be sure to see the bonus “things to know” at the bottom of this post. Many “things to know” were provided by this group and I update this post frequently based on their suggestions. You may want to return in a day or two to see what I add.

Use the app switcher

Do not hit the home button to get back to other apps or the Terminal. The included task switcher will cycle through running applications. Use the following keyboard combination to switch applications:

ctrl + tab

Tiny screen

Not all software will display properly on the small LCD screen and you may not be able to access all UI elements. There is no pinch and zoom currently and this is likely not an option. One option would be to have a utility that will scale the screen in some way so as to access all controls. Keeping my fingers crossed that some enterprising developer will find a way to take care of this.

Calibrate the touch screen

If your resistive touch screen (not capacitance like screens found on tablets and phones) is giving you fits, you can calibrate it using these instructions:

http://www.chip-community.org/index.php/Troubleshooting#Calibrating_Touchscreen_on_PocketChip

Play retro style games and learn to program

Pico 8 is a fabulous app that not only let’s you play retro style games, but also learn/teach basic programming skills using the Lua programming language. Check out these excellent resources to get started:

https://github.com/felipebueno/awesome-PICO-8

Use as a calculator

Use the included Python programming language as a built in calculator.

Try This: in the Terminal type:

python

The python prompt will appear. Type:

2+2 followed by the return (↩) key

Python will display the sum. To exit the Python interpreter, type:

ctrl + d

ctrl + q to exit the Terminal back to the home screen. {Thanks to Adam Higerd for the details and correction!}

Check out the resource below for additional calculator functions:

https://docs.python.org/3/tutorial/introduction.html

For a more traditional calculator, try this:

In the Terminal type:

xcalc

Your Pocket C.H.I.P. is now an old school basic functions calculator as shown in the image below. This application makes great use of the Pocket C.H.I.P.’s touch screen. Thanks to midheaventech.

Use a full-size keyboard

The Logitech K400 keyboard is an awesome external keyboard not only for a Raspberry Pi, but also the Pocket C.H.I.P. Plug the dongle into the USB port to make Pico 8 programming easier with the tiny little screen.

Control from a computer

Don’t purchase an external keyboard. Control your Pocket C.H.I.P. using your computer keyboard and trackpad/mouse. Follow my Raspberry Pi x11vnc instructions. They work just as well on the C.H.I.P.

Play Minecraft

(Added December 18, 2016) Minecraft is what all the kids are playing. Since the original release of the Pocket C.H.I.P., users have been asking, how do I play Minecraft on the Pocket C.H.I.P.? Next Thing Co. heard the pleas of the masses and created step-by-step instructions on their blog. Both individual and multiplayer options are available. Grab that pickaxe folks!

Learn Linux Terminal commands

(Added: August 21, 2016) You will want to learn how to use Terminal commands. One of the best features of the PocketC.H.I.P. is the ability to carry a full fledge Linux Terminal in your pocket. For students in computer science or information security courses, this can be a huge advantage to learning.

Below are my two favorite resources to learn Linux Terminal commands:

The Linux Command Line: A Complete Introduction, 1st Edition by William E. Shotts Jr.

I’ve been pouring through this book for days. I can easily throw the book and my PocketC.H.I.P. in my bag. When I have some free time, I take both out to learn more about Terminal commands. It’s a very geeky combination. To this day, I cannot believe I didn’t know about the simple cal command. As an educator, I also plan to recommend this package to students.

Learning the Shell on the linuxcommand.org site

This is a free resource. The site loads quickly and you can browse the site on your PocketC.H.I.P.

Watch Star Wars

Watch the original Star Wars story unfold on your Pocket C.H.I.P. Try this: in the Terminal type: sudo apt-get update, followed by sudo apt-get install telnet followed by telnet towel.blinkenlights.nl. Use ctrl + ‘j’ to close the telnet session and ctrl + ‘l’ to clear the Terminal.

Replace the bash

(Added: August 13, 2016): The PocketC.H.I.P. includes the standard bash shell; however, you can replace this with another shell called fish for more features. Below is an image of the changes available with this new shell environment.

Intrigued? Visit my fish on C.H.I.P.s blog post to learn more.

Bonus tips from the community

WARNING TIPS

Thanks to senkun for these tips.

Don’t peel off the plastic film off the super clicky buttons. The film holds the buttons in place.

and

When charging, be careful when plugging and unplugging the micro USB plug. On some units the connector on the CHIP isn’t soldered properly and may just get ripped off.

I felt it important to add these two warnings so new owners have a good first experience and realize that these devices can be a bit fragile if not handled correctly.

When my Pocket C.H.I.P. first arrived, I too wondered if I should peel off the keyboard plastic covering, but quickly decided against. New owners might consider doing this and this would not be good!

Customize the home screen

(Updated: August 13, 2016): (marshmallow from the BBS): The PocketC.H.I.P. includes a home screen; however, you can replace it with an outstanding, and in continual development, replacement called Pocket Home. It’s an easy install and the home screen replacement provides some great features such as adding and deleting items and changing the background color or image.

Learn more on the Next Thing Co. BBS post from marshmallow

Add a speaker

(bmjohnsn from the BBS) It would appear at first blush that the Pocket C.H.I.P. requires headphones for sound; however, with this clever little soldering hack, you can add a small 3 watt amp and speaker (or two for stereo) to the inside of the Pocket C.H.I.P. case. This is another hack and it requires some soldering skill; however, it is way cool and a project on my list of things to do (or possibly a variation).

Emulate games

(bmjohnsn from the BBS) bmjohnsn recommends this Nintendo-centric retro gaming link:

https://bbs.nextthing.co/t/mednafen-emulator-configuration-gbc-gba-snes-nes/5027

However, I’m more of an 80s gaming retro fan and am anxiously awaiting VICE support for Commodore computing. How awesome would that be?

UPDATE: The Rift Conspiracy provides instructions to download and configure the VICE emulator for the Pocket C.H.I.P. I’ve installed (see image below), but have not tried any games or applications yet. I hope to do so soon.

Install Doom and a launch Icon

The official Next Thing Co. blog now provides instruction to install Doom and include a launch icon to the home screen. It’s a bit of a hack, but does show active development and is a fun way to learn more about your little hand held Linux box.

Install Doom & give it an icon on the home screen

Join the discussion

Have something else I should add to the list that other Pocket C.H.I.P. owners should know? Drop in the comments below. I would love to read your suggestions.

Raspberry Pi presentation page now available

2016-06-18T13:21:00+00:00

On June 17th, I was the guest speaker for our local Columbus area Chamber of Commerce TANK Talk. I was asked to give a presentation about the Raspberry Pi and its use in physical computing, making and education. I decided to expand the presentation to include other physical computing devices such as the Arduino and a Kickstarter project.

A companion page is available that includes my electronic presentation and links to the numerous resources I shared. The page is located at:

/raspberrypi.html

The page also includes a comments area if you have questions. If you would like me to present this information, or a modified version, to your group, send me an email.

Shout out and huge thanks to the Columbus Area Chamber and the Fish Tank Co-working Space for inviting me to present.

HOWTO: Update your Raspberry Pi OS and software

2016-05-25T00:00:00+00:00

The Raspberry Pi’s operating system (OS) is a modified version of the open source (free) Debian Linux distribution. Debian includes a package (software) manager know as the advanced packaging tool. This tool is used to update the Raspberry Pi’s OS and software. While using the command line to update software might seem daunting, the process couldn’t be easier once you know and understand how the package manager works. This post will give you those skills.

To apply updates, the Raspberry Pi must have the Raspian OS installed and an Internet connection.

I’ll begin with the commands and recommend a timeframe to apply updates. After a quick review of the commands, I offer more detail about the function of each command.

Bottom Line Up Front

Let’s dive right into the commands we use to keep our Raspberry Pi up to date and how often to use these commands. The update frequency is a matter of preference; however, I recommend the following.

Weekly

Check for Raspian OS and software updates with the following commands:

sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get dist-upgrade

Monthly

Check for firmware updates, Raspian UI modifications and clean your installation with the following commands:

sudo rpi-update
sudo apt-get install raspberrypi-ui-mods
sudo apt-get clean

There are graphical user interface (GUI) tools available that assist with updates; however, using Terminal commands provides a deeper understanding of how these GUI tools work and provides an introduction to the use of console commands to manage the Raspberry Pi.

Let’s discuss each command and learn how to update the firmware.

Update Raspberry Pi firmware

The Raspberry Pi firmware allows the hardware to communicate with the software. On a full size PC, the firmware normally resides on an integrated circuit on the motherboard. On the Raspberry Pi, the firmware resides on an area (partition) of the SD card. This configuration allows firmware updates to be simple and reduces hardware costs.

At the terminal prompt, type the following command to update the Raspberry Pi firmware:

`sudo rpi-update'

The latest version of the Raspberry Pi firmware will download and update the Raspberry Pi OS kernel as shown in the image below.

To use the new firmware, a reboot is required:

`sudo reboot`

See the official rpi-update page for more information about firmware updates.

Do not use this command if you have made modifications to your kernel to support additional hardware, such as the GPIO connected PiTFT display from Adafruit as shown in the image below. Doing so will most likely require a kernel rebuild. If you didn’t understand that statement, you probably don’t need to heed this warning.

Raspian OS and software update

After a firmware update, update the Raspian OS and software using the commands below:

`sudo apt-get update`

The apt update option connects the Raspberry Pi to the online software repository database and compares available software to installed software. From this comparison, apt develops a list of packages that need an update. It may take up to a minute or two for the update to finish.

After the repository updates, the Raspberry Pi can now determine what Raspian OS and software updates are available. Updates often contain security enhancements and software feature additions. It is always good practice to use this command before you use upgrade commands.

To identify and apply the updates, use the command below:

sudo apt-get dist-upgrade

The Raspberry Pi will display a list of the updates.

If you only want to update software and not the Raspian OS, you can use the commands below:

sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get upgrade

I recommend using the dist-upgrade option. To me, it just makes sense to update both the OS and all software on the Raspberry Pi.

Raspian user interface update

Occasionally, the Raspian OS receives user interface updates that are not included in the base updates. Check for and install these updates using the commands below:

sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get install raspberrypi-ui-mods

Clean up

After upgrades, it’s good practice to execute the apt clean option. This will recover additional space on the SD card. During the installation process, apt downloads .deb files. These are installation files that are no longer needed once the application is installed. Removing them will free space on your SD card. This is especially valuable if you use a 4Gb SD card.

Use the command below to clean the Raspberry Pi SD card:

`sudo apt-get clean`

Summary

Regular Raspberry Pi updates will ensure the Pi has the latest security improvements, application and OS features. The task is simple once you understand and use the commands on a regular basis.

HOWTO: Change the Terminal font size on Raspberry Pi

2016-05-18T00:00:00+00:00

If you connect a Raspberry Pi to an HDMI monitor, you may find the terminal font size to be a bit small; especially if the monitor sits a foot or more away. This post demonstrates how to choose a different font size.

Steps

Boot the Raspberry Pi to the terminal (or console)

If your Raspberry Pi boots to the desktop environment, exit the GUI to see the command prompt. You can use the sudo raspi-config utility to modify the boot options for the Raspberry Pi if you always want to boot to the command prompt.

Type sudo dpkg-reconfigure console-setup at the prompt
If prompted, type the Raspberry Pi password - the Package configuration application will appear as shown in the image below

If not the default, select the UTF-8 option and hit ↩ - the screen below will display

If not the default, select the Guess optimal character set option and hit ↩ - the screen below will display

If not the default, select the Let the system select a suitable font option and hit ↩ - the screen below will display

Select the size font you prefer and hit ↩ - the red highlighted font (16x32) shown in the image above is my preference
Finally, reboot the Raspberry Pi using the sudo reboot command

When the Raspberry Pi reboots, it will now use the selected font to display the console and command prompt. In my case, I have a monitor about four feet from my desk. The font size I use allows me to enter commands from my wireless Logitech K400 Plus comfortably.

An iOS user talks Android

2016-04-30T00:00:00+00:00

Android has come a long way in the past several years and during that time, there has been a Hatfield/McCoy divide among Android and iOS users. Until recently, the only smart phone I have used is the iPhone. Since standing in line for the first generation iPhone to my latest, the iPhone 5s, I’ve been firmly in the iOS camp. But then something changed.

When Google announced Project Fi, I became curious about lower mobile phone costs, Google’s new dual provider wireless network Android version 5.1 (Lollipop), and the Motorola Nexus 6. I requested an invite to Project Fi and it arrived a month later. I immediately accepted and a few days later, the only phone available on that network, at the time, the Motorola Nexus 6 arrived at my door. I’ve used the Nexus 6 for several months. In December 2015, the phone was upgraded from Android 5.1.1 (Lollipop) to Android 6.0 (Marshmallow) and about a month later to 6.0.1.

Marshmallow brought better stability and battery life to the Nexus 6. My experience with the phone led me to the purchase of an Android tablet. After much research, and a budget of $200, I choose the nVidia Shield Tablet K1. Designed for gaming, the tablet came with an 8” screen and some hefty processing power. It also came with the promise of an upgrade from Lollipop to Marshmallow. Upon turning the tablet on during Christmas Day, the upgrade to 6.0 was available and 6.0.1 was not far behind.

After using these two devices extensively, I now have enough experience to share thoughts around the Android versus iOS debate. One caveat to keep in mind; I’ve tried not to spend too much time discussing hardware as this can differ greatly given the abundance of gadgets that run the Android operating system. I will try to focus my comments on the operating system rather than the devices themselves. This is often hard to do as some of the issues I have with my Android devices cannot be narrowed down to ether a hardware or software issue.

My focus is on major operating system features and I’ve organized my thoughts into the following categories below. You can use the table of contents below to jump to specific section:

App availability
User interface (UI)
Customization
Launcher
Battery life
Hardware
Keyboard and mouse
Stability
Camera
Photos
Podcasts
Mac syncing
Personal assistant
Conclusions

App availability

Years ago, I would have worried that the app I used on my iOS device would not be available on the Google Play store. I’ve not found this to be the case in 2016. There are a few iOS specific apps (Workflow, Reeder, etc.) that are missing, but I have found adequate replacements.

Despite popular belief, Android apps are not all free. Many great apps require a pro activation. I’m was happy to see this as I don’t mind supporting great developers and the costs are always minimal and comparable with the Apple App Store. There are also ways to get these pro activations for free. That’s a lesson for another day.

NEAT ANDROID FEATURE: App purchases on the Google Play store using your computer browser will install automatically to a selected Android device.

User interface (UI)

The Android user interface prior to version 5.0 (Lollipop) were a mess. The UI after 5.0 includes the Google material design specification. Android is now modern, functional, bold, attractive, flat and colorful. Material design is also found in Chrome OS bringing consistency across the two platforms. This design specification is also applied to many Google online tools such as Google Docs. I’ve grown fond of material design. When I look at my iPad, it seems dull and dated. That is unless I load a Google iOS app. Google is also applying this design specification to their iOS apps as well.

Many Android app developers have been slow to adopt material design. Most popular apps utilize the design specification, but many smaller titles haven’t made the change. This makes the Google Play store a mishmash of app design. Over time this will improve. Until then, I will not purchase an app unless it adheres to the new specification.

That said, iOS app design is also a mixed bag. While many apps look great, they are not consistent in their UI design methodology and a feature in one app may not work the same in another. iOS 8 brought with it a new flatter design, but my preference is still Google’s material design.

Customization

If you are looking to customize your phone or tablet’s user interface, use widgets on any home screen, modify the status bar or even change the app icons, choose Android. Android allows so many customization options that it can at times be overwhelming. Having these options allows each user to have an experience suited to their tastes and usage. If I were to compare customization on a scale of 1 to 10, iOS would be a 3 and Android would be an 11!

Launcher

iOS forces you to use the Apple application launcher called Springboard. Android also includes a launcher and depending on the phone manufacturer, it may not the same. If you don’t like the default launcher on Android, you simply download another from the Google Play App store.

Currently I’m a fan of the Google Now launcher – Google’s own custom launcher that includes Google Now, Google Now cards and Google On Tap. This launcher provides voice commands (similar, but better than Siri) and contextual information based on the current time of day, your calendar and your search interests. It’s amazing how accurate Google Now cards has become at anticipating my digital assistant needs. One of my favorite features is the automatic display on a map where I have last parked my car.

Battery life

While Android shines in the sections above, Android battery life is abysmal. I have yet to own a device that can match an iOS device’s battery life. Android, even with the new Doze feature included in version 6.0, can’t match an iOS devices.

The battery in an at rest Android device will drain like there’s a small leak in a balloon whereas an iOS device can sit on a table for days and barely lose a couple of precent points of battery life. Research online suggests that this is due to third party apps not being optimized and containing flaws in location awareness, notifications or other battery draining technologies. The Facebook apps seems to be one of the worst offenders. I’ve experimented by removing some non stock Google applications and can verify that battery life is better. But that kind of defeats the purpose, and fun, of having a smart phone.

I’m sure battery life is device dependent and there may be an Android device that has battery life that can hold its own against an iOS device. If there is, I sure would like to know (leave a comment below).

Hardware

This area is device specific. Unlike the iOS world, Google does not control the hardware except for their Nexus line. I use, and recommend the Nexus brand. Nexus devices have a pure Google Android experience and are normally the first to receive updates. I use the Nexus 6 on Google’s Project Fi. I have an entirely pure Android experience from Google.

Motorola builds the Nexus 6 and includes the following:

Wireless charging
Dual front-facing stereo speakers (more immersive sound)
6” Quad HD display (2560x1440 AMOLED)
Quick charge (6 hours of use from only 15 minutes of charge)
Multi network SIM (utilize more than one service)
4K video camera

Newer Nexus devices include finger print scanners. Nexus hardware is now equivalent to most iOS devices and in some ways (wireless charging and AMOLED screens) surpass Apple iOS devices. It appears that the only inequity between the latest iOS devices and the Nexus line is the processor performance.

I mentioned the nVidia Shield Table K1 was another Android device I own. This too receives regular updates and provides you with a relatively stock Android experience enhanced with gaming apps and functionality. I recommend it although at the time of this writing, they seem to be in short supply. Could a refresh be imminent? If so, I’ll be buying one!

Keyboard and mouse

Attach an external Bluetooth keyboard (I recommend this model for Android devices) to a device running Android 6 and your fingers can fire off keyboard strokes and combinations that will put iOS devices to shame. The ability to control Android with a keyboard is simply amazing. Here’s what you can do with an external keyboard:

Take a screen capture with a single keystroke
Activate the search box and initiate a search with either text or voice
Navigate application icons using the arrow keys
Quickly jump to the home screen
Cycle through home screens
Cycle through applications
Bold/italics/etc. while using text editors

Add a Bluetooth mouse to mix and you now have a pointer (arrow) and almost pure desktop experience. The pointer becomes your virtual finger tip. Click on icons, drag, etc. It’s really quite fabulous and a far better experience than what iOS provides with an external keyboard.

Stability

Android 6.0+, at least on the devices I use, still has several stability issues including:

Tap and wait stuttering
Bluetooth connectivity issues
App crashes
Camera not responding or slow to respond
“Application not responding” errors

The most particularly annoying stability issue is the camera application (see Camera and photos section below). There have been one too many times I have missed a picture because the camera was slow to initialize or the application crashed. With each new Android and camera app update I anticipate a fix, but the camera app still isn’t stable enough. Get on this Google!

I won’t say these are constant issues, but that’s a problem too. There’s no way to troubleshoot the issues when they are random. Some days are worse than others. A reboot or a cache partition wipe will often correct, but that’s not a viable solution in all situations. You will restart an Android device more frequently than an iOS device to improve stability. If you relay on your smart phone’s camera for critical photos and video, I highly recommend you stay with iOS.

Camera

The camera on my Nexus 6 is not nearly as good as the camera I had on my iPhone 5s. I do have to make sure conditions are just right in low light levels and the camera sometimes takes entirely to long to activate (see Stability section). I have missed a few good shots waiting for the camera. Android 6 has made the camera more responsive and has added a very nice feature - tap the power button twice and the camera app loads immediately. No need to unlock the device. It’s a great feature, when the camera app responds appropriately. The Camera app also includes all the basic features most casual picture takers will need.

Photos

Android 6.0 includes the outstanding Google Photos app. Those using previous versions of Android can also download this app from the Google Play Store. Google Photos is a huge improvement over Apple Photos. Organization, sharing, editing, web access, search, storage management and collaboration are far better than the Apple alternative. One mind blowing feature is Google photos search. Without any tagging on my part, I can search for say a “car” and Google Photos displays all photos that include a car. Searches can be more complex. I can type steven in the snow and all images with me in the snow will appear. Mind blowing!

Google continues to improve the app and the most recent version also provides options to create albums and collages (no need for a third party app). The app includes video tools so you can create animation and movies from your photos. Once you use Google Photos, you will never go back to another photo app. The app is also available on iOS and I’ve converted several friends and family from the stock iOS Photos app to Google Photos. There is much more I can say about the application and maybe I will find some time to do so in a later post.

Podcasts

The Google Play Music app now includes rudimentary podcast support; however, if you listen to more than a couple of podcasts, you are doing yourself a disservice if you don’t use a more robust podcast app. Overcast was my go to podcast app on iOS. On Android it took some time for me find a competent podcast client but I found it in Pocket Casts. Pocket Casts is very similar in function and design to Overcast. A plus for Android users who also use iOS devices, Pocket Casts is available and syncs between both platforms. Like Overcast, Pocket Casts includes a web based version so you can listen to podcasts using a browser. My favorite Pocket Casts (and Overcast) feature is the ability to play podcasts at 1.1 times to 2.0 times the normal speed without a change in voice pitch. I can listen to twice as many podcasts. Surprisingly, it doesn’t take your brain that long to adjust to this change in speed. Start gradually at 1.1 and work your way up to 2.0.

Mac syncing

When I made the switch to Android, I worried I would lose the ability to sync data with my Mac computers. There was no need to worry. Many solutions exist for seamless sync across devices. Below is a reference table that shows the data I sync and what tools I use:

Data	Mac Application	Android App
Bookmarks	Chrome	Chrome
Contacts	Contacts	Contacts
Calendar	Calendar	Calendar
Documents	Google Drive	Google Drive
Music	iTunes	iSyncr, Apple Music
Notes	Keep, Evernote	Keep, Evernote
Photos	Google Photos	Google Photos

These tools may not be compatible with your workflow; however, they work extremely well with mine. If you have a question about this table, leave it in the comments below. Also share suggestions to sync other types of data.

Personal assistant

I mentioned Google Now briefly in the Launcher section above. Google Now is the competitor to Apple’s Siri, or Amazon’s Alexa. Activation is either through a tap of a microphone button or if configured, by the voice command, “Okay Google.” My personal experiences have left me to prefer Google Now over Siri. Google Now is more accurate and provides many additional features to control my Android device. I could write a whole post on the comparison between the two; however, for this post, I will simply state that Google Now is far superior to Siri for my day-to-day use.

Conclusions

As of this writing, I’ve been using both a Nexus 6 and an nVidia Shield K1 Tablet on a regular basis to give Android a shot on both phone and tablet form factors. In the past I’ve owned an iPhone and iPad since the originals and I’ve seen several Android devices become the primary device for family members. I can tell you that over the years, Android has significantly improved. In the past, I would never have considered Android on a primary device. After using the Nexus 6 and the nVidia Shield K1 Tablet I have changed my mind.

Android still has some stability and battery issues; however, while working on this review, a family member was using an iPhone to scan some documents. During the process, the app crashed and they lost their scans. As I witnessed their frustration, I thought about this review. Maybe I’m being a bit harsh on Android’s stability.

So which mobile operating system do I recommend? In my opinion, both can go toe-to-toe with each other as long as we are comparing apples to apples (latest versions of iOS and Android). Both have strengths over the other. Where iOS trumps is in Apple’s ability to control the hardware along with the operating system adding to increased stability and battery life. It is often bad hardware by third party manufactures that cause horrible Android experiences.

While I will recommend Android devices now to my family and friends, I will always recommend they research in detail a specific Android device before purchase. Customer reviews will reveal much. It is also important the device includes the latest version of the Android operating system. I’ve done much of the research already and if you stay with the Nexus or nVidia Shield hardware, you should have a very good Android experience.

HOWTO: Use Gist to archive and share code snippets

2016-04-04T00:00:00+00:00

This is a short post for those new to coding (Arduino, CSS, HTML, Python, Javascript, Ruby, etc). Lately, I’ve been reactivating my dormant coding skills. As I complete projects and tutorials, I often like to save my code, or snippets from the code, for future reference and recall.

To quickly access my code snippets, I use GitHub’s Gist service. Where GitHub is used for large coding projects (this blog is hosted on GitHub pages), Gist is the perfect tool to capture and share simple code snippets to archive language syntax, program flow or technique.

Gist provides tools to archive and share your code snippets either as a link or as an embedded object. As an example, below is an embedded Gist.

As you can see, the embedded Gist includes language based color syntax code and code numbering that make it easy to read and reference. Both tools are beneficial for anyone teaching and/or sharing code and code languages.

Create snippets by visiting the Gist page, clicking the New snippet button, copying and pasting the code snippet into a form field, selecting the code language and hitting submit.

After the code is published, you share the code by copying a small script that you can include in a blog post (see below) or share the URL to the script page to share in an email, text or other electronic communication.

Use the URL below to create a free Gist account and get started:

https://gist.github.com/

To review my Gist collection, use the URL below:

https://gist.github.com/stevencombs

Bonus Geek Tip: Use the following third-party tools to make access to Gist snippets faster and easier:

Gist bundle for Textmate 2
GistBox browser extension for Chrome
Gist package for Atom
GistPal Mac application

If you have a Gist account, let me know in the comments below. I’d be interested to read any tips you may have.

HOWTO: Mirror a monitor connected to a Raspberry Pi on a Mac

2016-03-24T00:00:00+00:00

There are several tutorials available online that demonstrate how to setup a VNC connection to a Raspberry Pi from a Mac; however, most of them use TightVNC. This is fine if you want to control your Raspberry Pi remotely and do not have a monitor connected to the Raspberry Pi; however, I want to connect the Raspberry Pi to a monitor and then control the Raspberry Pi desktop, displayed on the monitor, from a Mac across the room.

To the best of my knowledge, TightVNC does not provide this feature (If I am mistaken, please leave a comment at the end of this post). TightVNC only allows a connection to a virtual screen. The result is that you see a virtual desktop on the remote computer, not the desktop on the display connected to the Raspberry Pi. My solution uses the VNC server, x11vnc to correct this.

NOTE: These instructions assume you have a Raspberry Pi, the Raspian operating system, an Internet connection, and the IP address of the Raspberry Pi.

Install x11vnc

The first step is to install the x11vnc server on the Raspberry Pi. We will use terminal commands to do this. You can use the Terminal application on the Raspberry Pi or you can connect remotely from a Mac using SSH.

It is good practice to first update the Raspian repositories using the command below:

sudo apt-get update

Install x11vnc using the command below:

sudo apt-get install x11vnc

Raspbian will display the following:

Reading package lists... Done
Building dependency tree
Reading state information... Done
The following extra packages will be installed:
  libvncclient0 libvncserver0 tcl tcl8.6 tk tk8.6 x11vnc-data
Suggested packages:
  tcl-tclreadline
The following NEW packages will be installed:
  libvncclient0 libvncserver0 tcl tcl8.6 tk tk8.6 x11vnc x11vnc-data
0 upgraded, 8 newly installed, 0 to remove and 1 not upgraded.
Need to get 1,621 kB of archives.
After this operation, 3,403 kB of additional disk space will be used.
Do you want to continue? [Y/n]

Select Y and follow with the ↩ key.

Set Password

Create a connection password for x11vnc using the command below:

x11vnc -storepasswd

The prompts below will display:

Enter VNC password:
Verify password:
Write password to /home/pi/.vnc/passwd?  [y]/n y
Password written to: /home/pi/.vnc/passwd

Type a password and verify. The password does not have to be lengthy. I use a six digit pin. Select y to write the password to the Raspberry Pi.

Start Server

Use the command below to start the x11vnc server on the Pi.

x11vnc -forever -bg -usepw -httpdir /usr/share/vnc-java/ -httpport 5901 -display :0

That’s a pretty long command so I recommend you copy and paste. In a nutshell, the command runs x11vnc in the background using the password created earlier and then sets the display to port 5900. Later I will demonstrate how to run this command using an easier to remember shell script.

Connect to Server

I use the built in Mac VNC viewer, Screen Sharing, to make the connection to the Raspberry Pi.

NOTE: Users of Apple’s Remote Desktop will be able to connect to the Raspberry Pi using this configuration; however, Remote Desktop will not discover the Raspberry Pi on the network automatically. You will need to add it manually in the All Computers area.

From the Finder menu, select Go / Connect to Server… or use the ⌘ + k keyboard combination.

Enter vnc://XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX into the Server Address text area, as shown in the image below. Substitute XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX for the IP address of the Raspberry Pi. In this example, the IP address is 10.0.1.100.

Click the Connect button and the dialog box below will display:

Enter the password, choose whether or not to remember the password in the keychain, and then select the Connect button. After a second or two, the Mac will mirror the main display on your Raspberry Pi as shown in the image below:

Use the Mac’s keyboard and mouse to control the Raspberry Pi. If you look on the actual display connected to the Pi, you will notice the mouse moves in sync with your Mac mouse. Success!

TROUBLESHOOTING TIP: If you cannot connect, ensure System Preferences / Sharing / Screen Sharing is off, or not selected.

On the Mac, from the main menu, choose Screen Sharing / Quick Screen Sharing to stop mirroring the Raspberry Pi screen on the Mac.

Create a shell script

The entire x11vnc command with parameters is hard to remember. Create a shell script to make it easier to start the x11vnc server. The single line of code shown below will create a new shell script in the home directory:

echo "/usr/bin/x11vnc -forever -bg -usepw -httpdir /usr/share/vnc-java/ -httpport 5901 -display :0" > ~/x11vnc.sh

Use the ls command to verify that a new script file named x11vnc.sh is in the home (~/) directory.

This script does not have permission to run. Change permissions with the command below:

chmod +x ~/x11vnc.sh

Run this script manually using the command below:

./x11vnc.sh

Remembering ./x11vnc.sh is far easier to remember than the longer command we wrote to the shell script file.

Kill the x11vnc server

If you need to stop (kill) the x11vnc server, use the command below to determine the process ID for x11vnc.

pgrep x11vnc

Raspian will display a three or four digit number.

Next type the command below:

kill XXXX

Where XXXX is the process number identified in the previous step. The x11vnc server will stop. If you need to restart, just enter the short shell script name: ./x11vnc.sh

Conclusion

It took me some time, much research, and much trial and error to figure this out. I was never able to find complete instructions online that work or a step-by-step guide. Hopefully others who want to mirror their Raspberry Pi’s “main” display on their Mac will find these instructions. My goal has been to write them in such a way that even those new to Linux can do this.

HOWTO: Easily install openHAB on a Raspberry Pi

2016-03-20T00:00:00+00:00

This post shares the process I use to install openHAB, the “vendor and technology agnostic open source automation software for your home,” on a Raspberry Pi 2. While I use the Raspberry Pi 2, this process should work on any variant. After scouring the web, I found multiple tutorials, but none worked for me exclusively. After much experimentation, my process became an amalgam of several online resources.

My tutorial assumes you have a working Raspberry Pi running the Raspian Operating System with Internet connectivity. I connect to the Raspberry Pi remotely using SSH on my Mac, but you can use the Terminal to follow these steps directly on the Raspberry Pi.

Verify Java Version

openHAB makes extensive use of Java and version 1.6 or higher is required. The first step is to ensure our Raspberry Pi includes a recent version of Java.

java -version

The Raspberry Pi will present the version of Java installed as shown below.

java version "1.8.0_65"
Java(TM) SE Runtime Environment (build 1.8.0_65-b17)
Java HotSpot(TM) Client VM (build 25.65-b01, mixed mode)

In my case, I have an install version of 1.8.0_65. I’m good to go. If your version does not meet the requirement, use the following commands in the terminal:

sudo apt-get update

This will update your Raspbian (Debian) packages. Type the following:

sudo apt-get dist-upgrade

After a bit of time, the Raspian OS will update; including Java.

Add the openHAB repositories

We can install openHAB from a download, but being able to install from the apt-get package manager makes the install easier and allows easy updates. Before we can use apt-get we will add the openHAB repositories to Raspian.

First we download the repository key:

wget -qO - 'https://bintray.com/user/downloadSubjectPublicKey?username=openhab' | sudo apt-key add -

We now add the repository to our apt sources list:

echo "deb http://dl.bintray.com/openhab/apt-repo stable main" | sudo tee /etc/apt/sources.list.d/openhab.list

With the new repository in our list, we update our list of available applications:

sudo apt-get update

No errors should display and we are now ready to install openHAB from the repository.

Install openHAB

The command below will install openHAB on the Raspberry Pi.

sudo apt-get install openhab-runtime

Start the openHAB server

If all went according to plan, we can now run the openHAB server:

sudo /etc/init.d/openhab start

The Raspberry Pi will display the following to verify server operation:

[ ok ] Starting openhab (via systemctl): openhab.service.

openHAB Status

Check the status of the openHAB installation with the command below:

sudo /etc/init.d/openhab status

Stop the openHAB server

Use the command below to stop the server:

sudo /etc/init.d/openhab stop

The Raspberry Pi will display the following to verify the server has stopped:

[ ok ] Stopping openhab (via systemctl): openhab.service.

Just the start…

The install is just the start of my openHAB journey. As I learn to control my home with openHAB and the Raspberry Pi, I will continue to add additional instructions. For now, if this install process works for you, please drop a comment below and let me know. I’m looking forward to my openHAB experiments.

BULLET REVIEW: New Trent Arcadia dual port AC charger

2016-02-26T00:00:00+00:00

New Trent once again provided me with an opportunity to review a new product; the Arcadia dual port AC charger. When I received an email that the product was available for review, I must admit, my decision to review the charger was a bit selfish. I could sure use a free wall wart for the brand new nVidia Shield K1 Tablet I received over the holidays.

nVidia does not include a charger as a cost savings measure. An extra charger to throw in my travel bag would be just the ticket. Let’s see if this charger punches that ticket. Here’s my bullet review:

Pros

The New Trent Arcadia dual port AC charger has the following strengths:

Small compact square design
Outlet prongs that fold in/out for easy storage and protection
Solid construction
Built like a tank and doesn’t feel cheap or flimsy
Reasonable price at around $13.00
Labeled ports so you know which USB port to use for which device
Includes both a 2.4 amp and 1 amp port (this becomes a con below)
Built-in short circuit and overcharge protection
Charging stops when battery is full
Works with about any device you can throw at it
Excellent packaging

Cons

The New Trent Arcadia dual port AC charger has the following negatives:

Can only charge two 1 amp devices (smartphones) at a time or a single tablet, but you cannot charge a tablet and a phone at the same time
Two ports with two separate amperages makes the device bit confusing at times
No case

Recommendation

The New Trent Arcadia dual port AC charger is a solid single port charger; however, with the increasing number of devices that require 2.4 amp charge ports, I wish I could charge two large devices at the same time. I own a Photive 60 watt 6 port USB charger that will charge 6 large devices (including a Macbook). It just would make more sense if the Arcadia could charge two large devices.

As is, the charger works well with my nVidia Tablet as long as it is the only device I need to charge at a time. Not entirely sure I can recommend this one. If you have a need to charge two smaller devices, then this might fit the bill at $13.00, but the one large device limitation puts it on my “I’m not sure I would buy one” list.

Gallery

Below are images of the New Trent Arcadia dual port AC charger. Comments are below each image.

The back of the charger box. Typical New Trent box quality. Accurately describes what you are getting.

Opening the box to see what’s inside.

Inside we get warranty card and the charger protected by a piece of molded plastic. No case and no instructions. You should be able to figure out how to use it.

Time to free the charger from it’s protective shell.

Like most gadgets, the device comes in protective wrap that you must peel off.

Fold the charger outlet prongs into the unit for easy and compact storage.

Prongs are up and ready for a charge.

The charger comes with two USB ports. One for a tablet or large smartphone (2.4 amps) and one for a small smartphone (1 amp).

HOWTO: Connect Chromecast to hotel (captive portal) Wi-Fi

2015-11-29T00:00:00+00:00

The Chromecast, while a great device, has one huge flaw. Unlike the [Amazon Fire TV (or Stick)][amazon], it does not have a way to authenticate into a hotel that has a captive portal web page. This is an omission I would like to see Google include. Without a remote, this could be difficult to include. No worries though. There is a way to use your Chromecast in some hotels and this post will show you how to do so using your Mac.

NOTE: This process will work for Linux users. Windows users with [Cygwin][cygwin] can likely follow along. I have not verified. This post is dated and while it works with older Chromecast devices, it may not work with a newer Google TV with Chromecast. I have a whole new process I use in 2022. I should post it!

Determine your Mac’s MAC address

The first step is to determine the MAC address of your Mac. A MAC address is a unique device ID assigned to all network devices. Hotel captive portal Wi-Fi systems use this address to identify which devices connect and what rights they have on the network. Here’s how to display the MAC address of your Mac’s Wi-Fi adapter.

Load the Terminal app on your Mac
Type the Terminal command below:

ifconfig

You will see text as shown below (I’ve replaced my Mac’s MAC address with ? characters for security reasons):

gif0: flags=8010<POINTOPOINT,MULTICAST> mtu 1280
stf0: flags=0<> mtu 1280
en0:
flags=8863<UP,BROADCAST,SMART,RUNNING,SIMPLEX,MULTICAST>  mtu 1500
ether ??:??:??:??:??:??
inet6 fe??::a???:??ff:feae:???e%en0 prefixlen 64 scopeid 0x4
inet 172.17.26.43 netmask 0xfffffc00 broadcast 172.17.27.255
nd6 options=1<PERFORMNUD>
media: autoselect
status: active

Look for the ether line and note the 12 character address – include the : characters

That is the MAC address for your Mac. We will use this a bit later.

Display Chromecast MAC address

Next we need the MAC address for the Chromecast.

Plug in the Chromecast to the hotel television and connect it to a power source
Open the Chromecast app on your mobile device
Progress through the Chromecast setup as far as you can go (knowing you will not successfully connect)
Note the MAC address that appears on the final screen of the setup process

Another option is to squint real hard and look for the MAC address on the back of the Chromecast. It is REALLY tiny. The process above will ensure you jot down a correct address.

Unplug the Chromecast from the power source

TIP: Keep the MAC addresses somewhere safe and handy for later use so you do not have to repeat these steps. I keep mine in Evernote.

#Spoof MAC address This part is a bit tricky. We will now temporarily modify your Mac’s MAC address to the MAC address of the Chromecast and then log into the captive portal hotel Wi-Fi. Don’t worry, a reboot will always return the Mac to its original MAC address and I will share how to return it back to its original MAC address using a single terminal command.

Turn the Mac’s Wi-Fi off
Load the Terminal app again
In the Terminal type (or you can copy and paste from this post):

sudo ifconfig en0 ether ??:??:??:??:??:??

Substitute ??:??:??:??:??:?? with the MAC address of the Chromecast.

Turn Wi-Fi on
Reconnect to hotel Wi-Fi network – the Mac will now connect to the network with the Chromecast MAC address
Proceed through the hotel login page
Verify Internet connectivity by visiting any web site
Turn off Mac Wi-Fi

The MAC address is now registered on the hotel Wi-Fi. Depending on the hotel and system, this MAC address will have access to the network anywhere from one to twenty-four hours (probably the latter). The downside to this process is that you will have to repeat it whenever the MAC address lease expires on the hotel network.

Restore Mac’s MAC address

You now need to restore your Mac to its original MAC address. You can simply reboot your Mac or you can use the terminal command process shown below:

In Terminal type:

sudo ifconfig en0 ether ??:??:??:??:??:??]

Substitute ??:??:??:??:??:?? with the Mac’s original MAC address.

Turn your Mac’s Wi-Fi on
Reconnect to the network

You will probably not need to authenticate through the portal page again, but no guarantee you won’t.

Back to the Chromecast

It’s now to time to reconnect the Chromecast and give it a shot.

Plug the Chromecast into the television
Using the Chromecast application on the mobile device, complete the setup process and connect to the hotel’s in-house Wi-Fi

The Chromecast should automatically connect to the hotel Wi-Fi network without need to authenticate.

Start casting

Use a compatible device that is on the same hotel Wi-Fi network and try to cast video or audio to the Chromecast

I believe the process above is accurate. Give it a shot and let me know. Please remember, this may not work on all hotel Wi-Fi networks. I’ve found it works in many independent hotels and within Marriott properties. I cannot verify for other hotel chains. If it works or does not work for you, please leave a comment below and include the hotel chain so we all benefit.

BOOK REVIEW: The LEGO Architect

2015-09-19T00:00:00+00:00

No Starch Press sent me a prerelease copy (release date: September 24th, 2015) of their latest LEGO related title, The LEGO Architect. I AM GLAD THEY DID! Everyone knows that I am a huge fan of Allan Bedford’s The Unofficial LEGO Builder’s Guide. I enjoy his book because it does just more than show how to build a specific model or genre of models – it teaches concepts that make you a better model builder and gives you a mathematical understanding of LEGO components and their connections.

The LEGO Architect and Tom Alphin

Tom Alphin, the author of The LEGO Architect, has captured this magic once again and upped the ante. Tom not only teaches you building concepts and how to create his models, he also adds a crash course in architectural design using an attractive and visual presentation. Interestingly, Tom is not an architect, but rather an Experience Program Manager at Microsoft. In his free time, he recreates architectural structures in LEGO.

Content

The flow of information is simple and effective. He groups his models by architectural style. Within each chapter, Tom provides a brief review of the historical significance and unique characteristics of a style. The book includes the following architectural styles:

Neoclassical
Prairie
Art Deco
Modernism (one of my favorites)
Brutalism
Postmodern
High-tech

Each section provides real-world architectural examples in both black/white and color images. Sidebars include LEGO elements that are useful in the recreation of these design styles. Before Tom demonstrates how to build his own models, he shares images of LEGO creations from around the LEGO fan community that represent a given architectural style. Tom’s selections are among the most amazing LEGO architectural builds within the LEGO fan community. You will be amazed at the detail and/or creativity of the models.

At the end of each section, Tom provides building instructions for his models (12 in all). As an example, at the end of the modernist section are instructions to build:

the Lever House
a Load-bearing structure (an engineering concept)
a Curtain-wall building
a Sullivanesque building (inspired by the architect, Louis Sullivan)

The last chapter in the book provides the reader with a “Builder’s Guide.” Within this chapter you will find sections about:

ideas
scale
form and detail
color
organization of bricks

These sections assist not only for architectural LEGO builds, but for any LEGO build. Be sure to check out the image on page 180. I only wish I had my elements so professionally organized. Might be a good winter project.

LEGO Architecture Studio

If you are in need of LEGO components to create the examples, Tom suggests that you purchase the LEGO Architecture Studio. The majority of the models found in the book can be built with the elements from that set. I do not own LEGO Architecture Studio (which I am sure will come as a surprise to my friends, family and readers!) and I wanted to see if I could create a model using LEGO Digital Designer (LDD). One model in particular grabbed my eye; the Art Deco movie theatre.

Using LDD in conjunction with this book

I began to create the model entirely with white and clear elements to match the LEGO Architecture Studio set elements. While creating the model, I was led through a few interesting LEGO building techniques such studs not on top (SNOT), overlap strengthening, and sub-component assembly. It was a fun build in LDD that I’m sure would be equally as fun with real elements.

At the completion of the build, I decided to add a bit of color to the elements to bring the theatre to Art Deco life. I choose two popular Art Deco colors, light blue and yellow. These were highlighted in the book. Below is my before and after color image.

Must buy!

Living in Columbus, Indiana (listed as one of the 10 most architecturally interesting towns in America) and having taught architectural drafting and design many years ago, this book was a natural for me and I couldn’t be more thrilled with the content. The book is a great architectural and LEGO architectural model making primer. At $25 retail, Tom’s book would be the perfect supplement to the LEGO Architecture Studio set. Combine the two and you can teach a basic course in architectural design as part of a high school or basic college level architectural design course. Tom only scratches the surface and it is my hope that there is a “Book II” in the works to fill in some missing styles.

The No Starch Press graphics designers did an amazing job on this book. Of all the books I have reviewed for No Starch Press, this one is the most beautiful and visually interesting. The quality of images, sans serif type selection and page layout make The LEGO Architect not only a great educational reference, but also a beautiful coffee table book. At first glance your guests may not even realize it is a LEGO related book; however, once they open the book, they will be mesmerized by the images and LEGO models inside.

Even though I didn’t buy this book, it is a “must buy” for any LEGO or architecture fan. Get a copy and pair with the LEGO Architecture Studio to create an amazing christmas gift for that budding architect or architectural fan.

HOWTO: Say goodbye to TextExpander and hello to Dash

2015-09-16T00:00:00+00:00

For several years TextExpander has been my go to Mac text expansion utility. There was a brief switch to aText; however, I came back to TextExpander because it has more polish and better community support. Recently a new version of TextExpander was released (version 5.0). Version 5 includes new features, most notably the ability to identify and create expansion snippets automatically. For me, this feature did not compel me to purchase the $19 upgrade.

What is a text expansion utility? It is a utility application that allows you to type a short string of text that automatically expands to a longer string. For instance, I type itcc and it expands to Ivy Tech Community Collegeas soon as I type hit the space bar. Most text expansion utilities include additional features, but this is the primary use.

There were three separate utilities installed on my Mac that include text expansion capabilities:

I experimented with text expansion using Alfred in the past. It works, but it is less than ideal and it is a laborious process to create and utilize expansion snippets. Alfred is best when used as an application/file launcher and search tool.

Dash includes a code snippets (or text expansion) feature that has proven to be just what I need. Before I dive into my decision to use Dash as my go to text expansion utility, let me provide a brief synopsis of Dash’s primary capabilities.

About Dash

Below is the official description for Dash:

Dash is an API Documentation Browser and Code Snippet Manager. Dash stores snippets of code and instantly searches offline documentation sets for 150+ APIs (for a full list, see below). You can even generate your own docsets or request docsets to be included.

Docsets?

For those unfamiliar with programming, think of an API Documentation Browser as a search tool to locate programming commands and concepts within an electronic catalog of user manuals. As an example:

While programming in Python and I cannot remember the proper syntax, usage, scope or options for the print command. I use Dash to search the Python docset for the print command. Dash provides the information shown in the image below.

Docsets are not preinstalled. You choose the docsets you need based on the tasks you perform. Once chosen, Dash downloads docsets to your Mac so they are available when you are offline and also checks regularly to see if updates are available. There are over a hundred different docsets that range from Markdown, to Python, to Swift.

Cheatsheets

Dash also provides access to cheatsheets. I use cheatsheets for Atom and iTerm2. When I forget a keystroke or features in one of these applications, I use Dash to jog my memory. Even better, Dash integrates with Alfred. I use Alfred to perform a search and Dash displays the results.

Create your own

Docsets and cheatsheets are programming language centric; however, you can also create your own. You could create an email/phone directory for your organization, a list of comic books, or a company procedural manual. Once you create this reference you can then share these personalized docsets or cheatsheets with others. For someone who dabbles in various programming lanaguages such as Python, Ruby and Arduino and writes extensively in Markdown; Dash is a life-saver.

Text expansion with snippets

So how does this get us back to text expansion? I mentioned earlier that Dash also includes a snippet function. Coders use snippets to store code they reuse or as a reference for later projects. You can use various tools to save snippets, but it really makes sense to have Dash save programming snippets in the same tool you use to search docsets and cheatsheets. If you find a line or two of code in a docset that you want to reuse, you can highlight it, right-click and save it to your Dash snippets. Dash will sync snippets, docsets, and cheatsheets to all your Macs.

Snippet insertion into other applications, such as Atom or CodeRunner, is done by the use of an abbreviation. For instance, you want to insert the line of code below into Atom or the Python interpreter:

words = ['cat', 'window', 'defenestrate']
for w in words[:]:  # Loop over a slice copy of the entire list.
     if len(w) > 6:
     words.insert(0, w)

Instead of copying and pasting this code/template for a Python list, you instead type a snippet abbreviation such as:

,,pylist

Notice the two ,, before the abbreviation pylist. These characters ensure you don’t accidentally type the abbreviation but require you to be more intentional. Not required, but a good practice.

Snippets don’t have to be lines of code though. When Dash is running, expansion of the abbreviation to any type of text occurs in any Mac application. For instance, I have the following sample snippets to save keystrokes:

Abbr.	Expansion
wsc	http://www.stevencombs.com
@@g	steven.combs@gmail.com
,,date	inserts the current date
,,green	#006B54 : the college’s official green hex code
,,apple	 : because I can never remember the keyboard shortcut

I currently have around 80 snippets and they work flawlessly in all applications. For general text expansion, Dash if flawless. Dash allows you to use tags to organize your snippets. This makes snippets easy to search and categorize. Below is a screenshot of Dash that displays the tags I use to keep my snippets organized.

This list grows regularly as I find other ways to use Dash to reduce typing.

Snippet variables

An additional power of snippets is the use of variables. Dash provides basic variables that allow you to customize snippets on the fly. For instance, I have a snippet that rapidly formats an email to our scheduler when I need to host a meeting. I type yamr and Dash prompts me for the meeting subject, participants, location and amount of time. Once I enter that information, the snippet expands into a formatted list of meeting requirements.

Dash also provides simple variables such as date and time. I type ,,date and Dash will expand the current date. Very handy when I eSign documents. ,,time will, of course, expand the time. Finally, Dash includes a cursor location variable to set the location of the cursor after the snippet expands.

Sorry TextExpander

Granted, TextExpander is far more capable and provides advanced features that Dash will likely never include; however, I will continue to use Dash and there is no reason for me to upgrade both applications on a regular basis when Dash handles 95% of my text expansion needs. If you are new to text expansion applications, I highly recommend you try Dash first and enjoy the other capabilities the software provides. You will find snippets very easy to create and once you get started, the creation of new snippets is very addicting. TextExpander has been removed from all my Macs for several months now and I have yet to miss it.

retroCombs

MEGA65 User’s Guide Chapter 5 - Upgrading the MEGA65

TABLE OF CONTENTS

LINKS

Video Mention Links

MEGA65 Accessories

MEGA65 LINKS

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HOW A MEGA65 CAN BE UPGRADED

WHAT IS A CORE?

DETERMINING THE VERSIONS OF THINGS

OBTAINING THE LATEST FILES

Step-by-Step Guide

THE CORE SELECTION MENU

UPGRADING THE MEGA65 CORE, ROM, AND SYSTEM FILES

INSTALLING ALTERNATE CORES AND ROMS

Install Multiple .ROMs

Boot an Alternate .ROM

SETTING CORE FLAGS

ERASING A CORE SLOT

UPGRADING THE FACTORY CORE IN SLOT 0

R3A Board Revision Only

UNDERSTANDING THE CORE BOOTING PROCESS

CONCLUSION

MEGA65 User’s Guide Chapter 4 - Configuring Your MEGA65

TABLE OF CONTENTS

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THE CONFIGURATION UTILITY

INPUT

MOUSE TYPE

DE-JITTER SETTING

CHIPSET

TIME & DATE

DMAGIC REVISION

F011 DISK CONTROLLER

LONG FN SUPPORT

VIDEO

VIDEO MODE

DIGITAL VIDEO

CRT EMULATION

AUDIO SETTINGS

AUDIO OUTPUT

SID GENERATION

SWAP STEREO CHANNELS

AUDIO AMPLIFIER

NETWORK

MAC ADDRESS

DONE

EXIT WITHOUT SAVING

RESTORE FACTORY DEFAULTS

EXIT AND REBOOT ONBOARDING SCREEN

SAVE AS DEFAULTS AND EXIT

INTRODUCING SD CARDS

SD CARD SLOTS

INTERNAL FULL-SIZE SD CARD SLOT

EXTERNAL MICRO SD CARD SLOT

SINGLE CARD OPERATION

SYSTEM UPDATES

LOCAL NETWORK FILE TRANSFERS

PREPARING A NEW SD CARD

INSERTING THE SD CARD

INTERNAL SD CARD

EXTERNAL MICRO SD CARD

THE SD CARD UTILITY

OBTAINING THE BUNDLED SOFTWARE

CONCLUSION

MEGA65 User’s Guide Chapter 3

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MEGA≡65 Links:

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Install Multiple `.ROM`s

Boot an Alternate `.ROM`

`ESC` Sequences